Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
Got my full plexi face and art from Tek Innovations, thanks to Amedo310 for formatting the art on the template for me! Really happy with the difference, definitely worth the money.
Nice!
And you're welcome.
Hellshingu
Member
Got my full plexi face and art from Tek Innovations, thanks to Amedo310 for formatting the art on the template for me! Really happy with the difference, definitely worth the money.
Damn that is awesome!
How is the paint quality compared to the Kuro? I've been reading that it has dropped compared to it and I'd hate to spend $300 on a subpar product.
Got my full plexi face and art from Tek Innovations, thanks to Amedo310 for formatting the art on the template for me! Really happy with the difference, definitely worth the money.
wow nice, i should seriously consider doing this for one of my TE sticks.
irfaanator
Banned
Alright I got a question about screw buttons vs push buttons. In my panzer stick I'm using push buttons b/c thats all I had, but I am wondering if using screw buttons are better. The seimetsu buttons seems to be fine, but the sanwa one seem to move around. Should I be using screw buttons instead?
Yeah I'm back at it with the fightsticks. The board thickness depends on the style of the build. For the Happ stick I went with a 1 1/8th in slab to keep the overall weight down since the case size was already pretty beefy
Ninja Scooter
Member
How rough is it to install an octagonal gate into a HRAP4 for a complete noob?
So far I love the stick, my main problem is that I'm having trouble with consistently hitting quarter-circle motions. I know more time and practice is probably needed, but would a gate change help?
So far I love the stick, my main problem is that I'm having trouble with consistently hitting quarter-circle motions. I know more time and practice is probably needed, but would a gate change help?
I bought the Kowal one and its basically just screwing it in. Very easy. Video is on FocusAttack's page for the product.
If it's a hayabusa stick it will probably be a pain. If you have a sanwa stick in there it will be extremely easy (literally a plastic gate that snaps onto the bottom which shouldn't cost more than a couple bucks).
edit: didn't realize kowal made those for hayabusa. the more you know, I guess it will be easy
Ninja Scooter
Member
Disaster Nebraska
Banned
If the HRAP has a Sanwa stick, installation is as easy as snapping in a compatible octogate.
The Hayabusa is a different story. It looks compatible with the standard Sanwa gates but has two problems. One: no tabs to snap in the gate, so you have to unscrew your lever switches, put on the plate, and screw it back on. But the plastic (in my gate, at least) only had guide holes for the screws, so I had to drill holes and drill out a wider area to allow the screw heads to sit flush. Two: even with this extra work, the octogate didn't feel right. Maybe the plastic of the gate is too thick, but it restricted my throws too much. Result: could only hit diagonals and quarter-circle moves about 1/5th of the time.
I've used octogates in my HRAP N3 and V3 for the last 3 years. They give that really crunchy arcade-like feel to your motions, but they also lead to habits of "riding the gate".
The gate will likely help you with quarter-circle and half-circle moves. Some people feel differently, but I found octogates make dragon punch (Z shape) easier, too.
The one area where they hold you back, IMO, is for charge characters who use diagonal-back or any character that uses diagonals in their attacks. Octogates technically shorten your diagonal throws, so there's less room for error (i.e you need to be more precise) when dealing with diagonals.
I still enjoy octogates and play with them on my PS3, but I'm glad I switched to a square gate on my newest stick.
Ninja Scooter
Member
yeah it's a hayabusa. I've only had it a few days so like I said, I may just need to get used to it and see how it goes. How about for a bat top? Would that be an easier process?
MisterLuffy
Member
Got my full plexi face and art from Tek Innovations, thanks to Amedo310 for formatting the art on the template for me! Really happy with the difference, definitely worth the money.
That's one good looking stick. Makes me want to change my art on my TES+. They have the template in tek innovation. Does anyone have TES+ and attempted to change the art? I ask because I have never done this before and it's my first stick.
Disaster Nebraska
Banned
Bat tops are easy to install but you want to make sure the ball/bat fits the stem. I don't know which bats/balls fit on a Hayabusa, to be honest.
BaroqueSampson
Member
Query: What makes a "short throw" button different?
I'm learning!
I'm learning!
Ninja Scooter
Member
I'll have to look into that. Thanks.
Disaster Nebraska
Banned
If a stick or button is said to have a "short throw", it means the distance it has to travel to engage the action is shorter compared to, say, a console analog stick with a "dead zone".
A button with a short throw would be those featherlight buttons you barely have to touch.
Played some more shmups with the Mayflash V2, and also spent a bunch of time researching joysticks and buttons.
The V2's parts are definitely good for fighting games; hadokens, shoryukens, and 360s are all super easy to input. However, they are somewhat lacking for shmups.
The joystick has a larger deadzone and throw than I would like, along with an insufficient return-to-center time.
The buttons, while responsive, have a lot of unnecessary travel which makes them difficult to tap rapidly.
Nevertheless playing shmups on stick is tons of fun. Being able to reliably do diagonals from neutral is allowing me to perform dodges that I could never do before.
Down the road I'll probably get a Seimitsu LS-56 and Sanwa OBSF-30s.
Btw I've heard that adding an octo-gate to a LS-56 makes it awesome or something. I do like the square gate of the V2, what makes the LS-56 and octo-gate combo so special?
The V2's parts are definitely good for fighting games; hadokens, shoryukens, and 360s are all super easy to input. However, they are somewhat lacking for shmups.
The joystick has a larger deadzone and throw than I would like, along with an insufficient return-to-center time.
The buttons, while responsive, have a lot of unnecessary travel which makes them difficult to tap rapidly.
Nevertheless playing shmups on stick is tons of fun. Being able to reliably do diagonals from neutral is allowing me to perform dodges that I could never do before.
Down the road I'll probably get a Seimitsu LS-56 and Sanwa OBSF-30s.
Btw I've heard that adding an octo-gate to a LS-56 makes it awesome or something. I do like the square gate of the V2, what makes the LS-56 and octo-gate combo so special?
Stick paint quality looks good to me, but take my words lightly. Every stick I buy go through heavy modifications. I immediately sold the stock face plates and buttons to fund my parts.
For JLFs at least the diagonals are about the same while opening up the cardinal directions. Square has easier diagonals cause it's a tighter (and only) corner to throw to.
Throw and engage are different distances. Throw is to the end of physical movement, i.e. stick to the gate, or bottoming out of a button.
Hellshingu
Member
Ah good to hear. My kuro was nearly perfect in quality so I was happy. I want the new one but I'm probably going to hold out and see if they release another diamond version of the stick before I drop $300 again.
The shaft in the Hayabusa has the same thread depth as a JLF, as I recall - certainly, I had a Sanwa LB-30N on one for about half an hour last week, using the JLF thread adapter. Most Sanwa or Seimitsu ball tops should work, and Sanwa bat tops as long as you have the thread adapter where appropriate (pretty sure JLF shaft covers will fit Hayabusa as well, for what it's worth)
If you are talking about the LS-56 in general, it's got medium-short engage distance and a heavier Spring than a lot of stick have as stock. It's not actually that far off the feel of the stock stick in those V2/Venom/etc sticks, though the weight comes more from the spring than the relatively stiff micro switches the V2 seems to have.
As far as the octogate goes, it's generally just popular for shooter-types due to it actually settling into the cardinal directions. There's something about that feeling that just feels right for the type of movements you make in a shooter, you know? If that V2 has the stick part in it I think it does, it might actually be compatible with a JLF octogate - might be something you want to check and give a try.
I've heard the V2 stick feels like a LS-58; if that's true then I definitely want something stiffer like the LS-56.
The V2's diagonals are precise, perhaps too precise as I have to slide the stick all the way from center of edge to the very corner for them to engage. Is that normal in sticks?
I like the square gate. I'm concerned about the "bumpiness" that I'd feel when jumping from corner to corner with an octogate. But then again the shorter diagonal throw hmm...
The V2 is compatible with JLF octogates, are there any particular models that are special or are they mostly the same?
Engage distances in general (not just the diagonals) vary depending on the specifics of the stick - micro switch mounting positions vary, as do things like the size of the actuator on the base of the shaft, or how specifically the micro switches are depressed. That said, on most sticks you shouldn't actually have to touch the extremes of the gate in any direction to actually activate that direction - throw and engage are very different distances. One of the reasons folks often recommend sucking it up and getting used to a square gate is because, if you are proficient enough, you shouldn't really be hitting the extremes of the throw, and least when doing fighting game specials.
If the engage distances are what really bugs you, you might want to consider an LS-40 over a 56, even though the spring is softer.
I've only used the standard Sanwa JLF GT-Y octogate, and even then it was on a modded JLF, so can't really say if there's a big difference between that and, say, the JLF compatible gate QanBa made. I'd have to imagine there'll be minor differences in travel (though obviously not engage) distances, though.
(As a note, though, the octagonal gates Seimitsu make for their own sticks are pitted, whereas most the JLF compatible gates are just eight straight lines. It means that rotating the stick at the extremes of the throw is a slightly lumper experiences, though I kind of like that myself. Something to bear in mind if you are thinking of an LS-56 + Octogate, though)
I've made a crude illustration of what I'm referring to. The blue & orange zones are "engaged", red is "neutral/unengaged". Not to scale; I have no clue what the shape of the V2's neutral zone is, but w/e.
I can easily do hadokens without riding the gate, and I can also easily go from neutral to any single direction (including diagonals). However, if I'm playing a shmup and want to go from e.g. down to down-right, I have to move the joystick all the way to the corner for down-right to engage. I have no idea if this behavior is normal in a stick or not.
Edit: Alternatively, it feels like I have a lot of room to wiggle the joystick along the edge without engaging a diagonal - more room than I would like. I actually think this might be due to the stiff microswitches in the stick; there's too much resistance before engaging the switch.
Then again I'm also new at using a stick and there's a good chance I have no idea what I'm talking about lol.
I've heard the LS-56 already has really tight engage/throw distances, is the LS-40 even tighter? Also do you know how quickly the LS-40 returns to center and how easy it is to double-tap?
I think I'll stick with the square gate as I do like the linear corner-to-corner.
Part of it is down to the fact that most Japanese-style stick parts use circular shaped actuators that push against four small microswitched buttons which are centered around the stick in the neutral position. Whilst some sticks used bevelled actuators which compensate against this to a degree (don't think this is true of the V2 stick, though), when sliding the stick, for example, left or right whilst riding the bottom of the gate, it's actually a narrower part of the actuator which is interacting with the mircoswitch button than it would be if doing the same from a neutral starting point.
If you are moving directly diagonal from neutral, this is still true to a degree, but the microswitch will still hit the activation point part way through the movement.
The distances involved here are small enough that I personally don't tend to notice the difference, but I'm actually pretty cack-handed at this stuff.
Prototype-03
Member
I know it's a long shot but anyone not like the Hayabusa buttons that they want to sell? Want to see how they compare to the Gamerfingers, but I don't think Hori sells them separately yet.
Hellshingu
Member
You could try the shoryuken forums I saw some guys switching parts out over there. My dumbass just bought a $150 stick to try them out
My TES+ came today. So far I'm loving it. No creaking, squeaking, or flexing. Maybe I just got lucky, or maybe the first wave had especially bad QC to meet the launch.
Anyway, I booted up Third Strike and started the parrying challenges. Challenge #3 (Ken shinshoryuken) is something I was NEVER able to do with the PDP fight pad I was using before. I would sit there for 10 minutes trying to parry the third hit and literally have only ever managed it once before. Got it on try number 2 with the TES+.
I can now actually pull of EX moves and grabs. Inputting these on my pdp fightpad was so unreliable that I wouldn't even bother.
The only downside is that I'm basically having to relearn QCF and DP motions. I'm having a lot more trouble pulling out specials, but I'm sure that I'll adapt shortly.
EDIT:
Aaand beat parry challenges 4 and 5 in about 5 tries each, which I've never been able to accomplish before. So far, no ragrets on finally getting a fight stick.
Anyway, I booted up Third Strike and started the parrying challenges. Challenge #3 (Ken shinshoryuken) is something I was NEVER able to do with the PDP fight pad I was using before. I would sit there for 10 minutes trying to parry the third hit and literally have only ever managed it once before. Got it on try number 2 with the TES+.
I can now actually pull of EX moves and grabs. Inputting these on my pdp fightpad was so unreliable that I wouldn't even bother.
The only downside is that I'm basically having to relearn QCF and DP motions. I'm having a lot more trouble pulling out specials, but I'm sure that I'll adapt shortly.
EDIT:
Aaand beat parry challenges 4 and 5 in about 5 tries each, which I've never been able to accomplish before. So far, no ragrets on finally getting a fight stick.
Prototype-03
Member
You could try the shoryuken forums I saw some guys switching parts out over there. My dumbass just bought a $150 stick to try them out
hmm, I don't really visit SRK so I don't want to be a newbie asking for buttons, but I just read around and found out that HRAP4 Kai has some horrible lag. Guess I might be going back to the original HRAP4.
RedAssedApe
Banned
Damn. I sold mine at SRK last night and shipped them this morning.
Prototype-03
Member
No worries. Fortunately, my friend says he has a set (which he also switched to Gamerfingers) and is willing to sell to me. He just has to find them, but at least that problem is solved
You're probably right, but now it's all in my head. I will blame my stick for my losses! Although that difference between TES+ and TE2+ is suspicious. I would assume they would use the same board.
Hellshingu
Member
That is the old version that supposedly has the lag. According to Japanese tests and taken from the shoryuken stick lag thread
Which is what the new HRAP that are being sold are. Hayabusa = Falcon
I am not sure if this is for both new HRAP or just the HRAPV over the HRAP4.
Prototype-03
Member
I have the HRAP4 Kai when they just released... So the old version that comes with the Kuros. I also have the regular HRAP 4 that doesn't have the touchpad. Either way, I would like to see someone else test these.
adamantypants
Member
Nevermind, going TES+ lol. The more I look at the TE2+ the more I think the design is just ugly.
PAULINK
I microwave steaks.
I feel the opposite, the shadowloo logo looks way too tacky. The te2 ryu design looks so smooth though.
finally got my HRAP4 Kai in the mail
has a great weight to it, build feels solid
hayabusa buttons aren't as feathery as sanwa, will have to play with em and see how i like them
hayabusa stick feels good, too. no squeak but has a little 'pop' when i hit up. doesn't seem like a big deal
can't wait to put it through the paces tonight though
has a great weight to it, build feels solid
hayabusa buttons aren't as feathery as sanwa, will have to play with em and see how i like them
hayabusa stick feels good, too. no squeak but has a little 'pop' when i hit up. doesn't seem like a big deal
can't wait to put it through the paces tonight though
minimumhippo
Member
The new version of the HRAP4 Kai says it uses xinput. Does this mean I can just plug it into the PC and it will work with SFV without needing x360ce or JoytoKey?
mdsfx
Member
Wait there are two versions of this stick? How can you tell them apart?
Prototype-03
Member
Apparently it was a stealth update. The newer ones have an extra PC switch from what I hear.
easy way to tell visually is the buttons: matte black is the new version (better buttons, faster pcb), shiny black is old
minimumhippo
Member
From what I hear, the new version will say HAYABUSA buttons on the box? I can't confirm, mine is in the mail but when it arrives I will let you know.
Or that!
There's also a grey strip on the right of the top panel with side button labels.