"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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I was able to get a new MOBO. It is the same one, so hopefully I just had a BAD MOBO. Im about to get started........... ANY ADVICE?!?!?!

What was all this talk about shorting my mobo with the little gold screws?
 
Hi gang. I am thinking of talking the dive into water cooling. I will be cooling an i7-920 and two 5870s. I am looking at the XSPC and EK 360mm rad kits, I can't be fucked buying all the components individually, plus it's MUCH cheaper going the kit route. Also I will be using 2x XSPC VGA blocks

XSPC-Rasa-750-RX360-WaterCooling-Kit_0_0_1OEC7-300x277.jpg


3831109863077sss.jpg


19-300x267.jpg


My question is can I run all this on a single 360mm rad or will I need to get a 420 (which I can fit in my case, with slight modding). I would prefer the 360 as they are readily available in kits, the 420 would require much extra effort. I realise the 420 would be better, I just need to know will the 360 be enough?
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
I was able to get a new MOBO. It is the same one, so hopefully I just had a BAD MOBO. Im about to get started........... ANY ADVICE?!?!?!

What was all this talk about shorting my mobo with the little gold screws?
Click to expand...

.....The little "gold screws" are standoffs. They go in the case screw holes, and then you screw your motherboard into that. You have to use them in every single hole in the mobo. You can't forget one, or you'll be right back to where you started.

My advice? One thing at a time. Use very little thermal paste (a thin strip on the bottom should do it for the H212+. Test the mobo outside the case (with all your RAM, and your video card etc) on it's anti-static bag, before installing it into the case.

I'd say that you had 90% of an idea of what you were doing before. It's the last 10% that bit you in the ass. Now that you know what a standoff is, you should be in better shape.
 
After going through the calibration slides "Standard" mode is actually surprisingly accurate on my new ASUS LED. I wonder how much I will miss out playing games on standard instead of gaming...
 
LordCanti said:
.....The little "gold screws" are standoffs. They go in the case screw holes, and then you screw your motherboard into that. You have to use them in every single hole in the mobo. You can't forget one, or you'll be right back to where you started.

My advice? One thing at a time. Use very little thermal paste (a thin strip on the bottom should do it for the H212+. Test the mobo outside the case (with all your RAM, and your video card etc) on it's anti-static bag, before installing it into the case.

I'd say that you had 90% of an idea of what you were doing before. It's the last 10% that bit you in the ass. Now that you know what a standoff is, you should be in better shape.
Click to expand...



Just did this with the new MOBO.... SAME SHIT!!! I wish I could at least know what is wrong... this is horrible...

its outside the case and everything...
 
So I just finally finished hooking up those two Samsung Spinpoints to my computer.

Now how do I put them in Raid 0?

Do I have to format them to my computer first or what?

In other words, where do I go from here?
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
Just did this with the new MOBO.... SAME SHIT!!! I wish I could at least know what is wrong... this is horrible...

its outside the case and everything...
Click to expand...

Try a new power supply next. A bad CPU is a rarity compared to a bad Mobo/RAM/PSU.

Then again, that computer was plugged in while the mobo was grounded, and left to reboot over and over for god knows how long. The processor, RAM, etc may have been fried.

If a new PSU doesn't work, it's time to panic.
 
Flying_Phoenix said:
How are these temps?

iFtyB.png


Keep in mind the really hot hard-drive is a SSD.
Click to expand...

Seems really hot... I've been running a game for about 6 hours now and my CPU is sitting at 43*C fan cooled running at low rpms.
 
Gaming4Lyfe said:
Get a pre=built gaming PC from New Egg. Building your own is a hassle and so many things can go wrong
Click to expand...

Ehh.. building a custom PC is like building a lego model of the death star. You've got to read the instructions, but even a child can do it if they take their time. Yeah, you may get a DOA part, but the small problems can be overcome.

We had a guy in here that literally took a picture of his nearly upside down case, and (without irony) asked us why his case didn't look like the picture on the box. He ended up building his computer without any issues.

Another guy spent hours trying to diagnose an HDD that wouldn't show up in POST, and it turned out that he hadn't plugged it in.

What I will say, is that there is something to be said for buying parts locally. If you have a Fry's/Microcenter in the area, there really is no reason to buy most of your parts at Newegg. Buy them at Fry's or Microcenter, so that you can easily return things if they don't work.

When things don't work though, it can be time consuming trying to figure out which part has gone bad. Buying a pre-built is no guarantee that a part won't be DOA though.


Flying_Phoenix said:
How are these temps?

iFtyB.png


Keep in mind the really hot hard-drive is a SSD.
Click to expand...

Check your temps in another program (like HWmonitor). If they line up, your cooler is likely improperly installed (or faulty).

I can't explain the SSD temps. They are unlikely to be accurate, since an SSD has no moving parts, and doesn't generate a lot of heat.
 
So yeah guys about that raid.


Coldsnap said:
Seems really hot... I've been running a game for about 6 hours now and my CPU is sitting at 43*C fan cooled running at low rpms.
Click to expand...

I also have my CPU running with the CoolerMaster heatsink.

I'm going to start inspecting the hardware.
 
Flying_Phoenix said:
So yeah guys about that raid.




I also have my CPU running with the CoolerMaster heatsink.

I'm going to start inspecting the hardware.
Click to expand...

Yea, you should do that. I have a heatsink like the coolmaster on and a 700rpm fans. Unless you have some crazy overclock going on your temps should be way lower.
 
Flying_Phoenix said:
Are the temps at dangerous levels? Like should I do something about it now?
Click to expand...

CPU is at dangerous levels, yes. I assume that isn't at load? Put a load on it, and it'll likely downclock itself to prevent catastrophe, if it hasn't already.

SSD is likely just an improper sensor reading (which would be the programs fault most likely). If you want to check, touch the SSD. If it burns you (and it would, at that ridiculously high temp) it's a problem. If it doesn't, you're fine.

I would keep that computer on just long enough to make sure SpeedFan wasn't giving me false readings (using another program). Then I'd shut it off until I could fix it.

For reference, you want to see anywhere between 30-40c at idle (depending on a variety of factors) and no more than maybe 70c at load.
 
When trying to install the HDD to the computer I remember finding a cable that looked like it belonged to the small fan input on the motherboard. I went to check all the fans and they were still working. Possibly it was for the heatsink fan and its making it go slower?
 
Flying_Phoenix said:
When trying to install the HDD to the computer I remember finding a cable that looked like it belonged to the small fan input on the motherboard. I went to check all the fans and they were still working. Possibly it was for the heatsink fan and its making it go slower?
Click to expand...

If you installed the CPU fan into the wrong motherboard header, it may spin slower than it needs to.

Whichever fan you have plugged into the CPU_FAN slot on the motherboard is only running at 800RPM, which is an issue unto itself. If you can look at fan on the heatsink and it isn't going like a bat out of hell, you may have the wrong fan plugged in.

I don't know if that would account for those temps though. I wouldn't think so, because a tower cooler is pretty efficient at cooling and and of itself, without the fan. The fan obviously helps, but the air going from the front of the case to the back of the case should cool the heatsink reasonably well (I've seen some quiet-fiends run without a CPU fan).

By all means, check to make sure that the wire coming out of the fan on the heatsink is plugged into CPU_FAN on the mobo.
 
LordCanti said:
If you installed the CPU fan into the wrong motherboard header, it may spin slower than it needs to.

Whichever fan you have plugged into the CPU_FAN slot on the motherboard is only running at 800RPM, which is an issue unto itself. If you can look at fan on the heatsink and it isn't going like a bat out of hell, you may have the wrong fan plugged in.

I don't know if that would account for those temps though. I wouldn't think so, because a tower cooler is pretty efficient at cooling and and of itself, without the fan. The fan obviously helps, but the air going from the front of the case to the back of the case should cool the heatsink reasonably well (I've seen some quiet-fiends run without a CPU fan).

By all means, check to make sure that the wire coming out of the fan on the heatsink is plugged into CPU_FAN on the mobo.
Click to expand...

So whats most likely the problem?
 
Im still messing around, I decided to plug it all up (graphics card still in) but without the power to the card....... the machine booted up MUCH MUCH louder, I thought it was actually working. But it still turned off. I should say the Fans spun MUCH MUCH faster.

I guess its the PSU?

Is there anyway this could be an issue cause of the CPU and the thermal paste?
 
Flying_Phoenix said:
So whats most likely the problem?
Click to expand...

Improperly installed heatsink, is often the issue with high CPU temps. When did you install the heatsink, and were the temps that high immediately after you did it?

SnakeSlashRO said:
Im still messing around, I decided to plug it all up (graphics card still in) but without the power to the card....... the machine booted up MUCH MUCH louder, I thought it was actually working. But it still turned off.

I guess its the PSU?

Is there anyway this could be an issue cause of the CPU and the thermal paste?
Click to expand...

You're at the point where it's all a matter of exchanging parts until you can find out which one is busted. Without the video card power in, the PSU does have less of a load. The computer wouldn't boot though, because the PCI-E socket can't deliver enough power to the video card to run it.

Hopefully it's the PSU.

For PC gaming master race veterans, this process is easier, because we usually have other parts to test (I've got like...three old video cards, two PSU's, etc, sitting around, ready to be swapped in at a moments notice if something goes sideways).
 
MisterNoisy said:
I like the HAF 912 or the Zalman case more than the 430, but that isn't going to be an issue either way. Definitely upgrade to the 2500K - it's only $10, and being able to OC and not having to is much better than the reverse. I also like the CM V6GT, but I'm not familiar with the cooling option you selected, so that's sort of a wash.

My biggest issue is with the PSU - I have no idea what the specs are for the one you listed, but I'd really look at the 650W Corsair option, despite the price hike. There are places where you can cut corners in your build, but the PSU is not one of them. I'd drop to standard mechanical HDDs before I bought a cheap PSU.
Click to expand...

I'm leaning towards going with the CM V6 GT just because I've never done liquid cooling. Since that is so big looking though I would also go ahead and move up to the HAF 912. I'm trying to avoid spending that extra money on the psu but I hear your concern.
 
LordCanti said:
Improperly installed heatsink, is often the issue with high CPU temps. When did you install the heatsink, and were the temps that high immediately after you did it?



You're at the point where it's all a matter of exchanging parts until you can find out which one is busted. Without the video card power in, the PSU does have less of a load. The computer wouldn't boot though, because the PCI-E socket can't deliver enough power to the video card to run it.

Hopefully it's the PSU.

For PC gaming master race veterans, this process is easier, because we usually have other parts to test (I've got like...three old video cards, two PSU's, etc, sitting around, ready to be swapped in at a moments notice if something goes sideways).
Click to expand...




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RiwQ_GUArQ

I made another video outside the case...

I think im going to just put it back in the case... and take back the MOBO and the power supply tomorrow... and get my money back...

Should I get more watts? Im working with a 550... my card needs 550 or higher.
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RiwQ_GUArQ

I made another video outside the case...

I think im going to just put it back in the case... and take back the MOBO and the power supply tomorrow... and get my money back...

Should I get more watts? Im working with a 550... my card needs 550 or higher.
Click to expand...

550w should be fine, depending on the brand. You can go up to 650w if you find one around the same price (750w would be pointlessly high).

I would leave the mobo/cpu for now (you did exchange the mobo already, right?) and try a new PSU.
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RiwQ_GUArQ

I made another video outside the case...

I think im going to just put it back in the case... and take back the MOBO and the power supply tomorrow... and get my money back...

Should I get more watts? Im working with a 550... my card needs 550 or higher.
Click to expand...

That sucks man. Situation like yours is what I was dreading when getting ready to put mine together. Sucks but like Canti said you pretty much have to start exchanging stuff until you locate the problem :/
 
LordCanti said:
Improperly installed heatsink, is often the issue with high CPU temps. When did you install the heatsink, and were the temps that high immediately after you did it?
Click to expand...

I installed the heatsink months ago, and no it was fine.
 
Flying_Phoenix said:
I installed the heatsink months ago, and no it was fine.
Click to expand...

Is it still firmly seated? Have any of the pins popped loose? Other than thermal paste that has gone south (or a heatsink that has loosened), I'm not sure what else could cause those kinds of temps. It shouldn't go bad that fast though. Did you figure out the fan situation, and make sure that another program was giving you the same temperature readings? Did you make any changes (OC'ing, for instance? Accidentally set the voltage too high?) If so, I'd undo them and go back to stock for now until you've figured the issue out.

(I'm now asleep, hopefully for the next eight hours. Good luck.)
 
SSDs do not have temp sensors installed, and therefore default to 128C in SpeedFan. Just a heads-up for anyone wondering.

---

On the issue of the computer not POSTing, it sounds like either a dead CPU or dead PSU.

My money is on the PSU. I've had more dead PSUs than any other component in a computer before (followed by video cards). Best of luck to you.
 
Flying_Phoenix said:
I installed the heatsink months ago, and no it was fine.
Click to expand...

run coretemp or HWmonitor first, Speedfan always gets the wrong sensors at default settings is my experience


AkIRA_22 said:
Hi gang. I am thinking of talking the dive into water cooling. I will be cooling an i7-920 and two 5870s. I am looking at the XSPC and EK 360mm rad kits, I can't be fucked buying all the components individually, plus it's MUCH cheaper going the kit route. Also I will be using 2x XSPC VGA blocks

[]http://www.xs-pc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/XSPC-Rasa-750-RX360-WaterCooling-Kit_0_0_1OEC7-300x277.jpg[/IMG]

[]http://www.pccasegear.com/images/3831109863077sss.jpg[/IMG]

[]http://www.xs-pc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/19-300x267.jpg[/IMG]

My question is can I run all this on a single 360mm rad or will I need to get a 420 (which I can fit in my case, with slight modding). I would prefer the 360 as they are readily available in kits, the 420 would require much extra effort. I realise the 420 would be better, I just need to know will the 360 be enough?
Click to expand...

a 360 will definitely work without issues. although 420 might allow for some slower rpm fans

I like the idea of integrated pump & bay reservoir from the XSPC kit (got a EK bay res myself), but unfortunately that pump is not very good/reliable going by the number of complaints I read about it ... I'd take the EK kit (make sure you get copper only blocks though)

and make sure the blocks fit your version of the 5870 ... so much revisions floating around :p
 
Haha, so, now I'm running three PSUs. The way I have it set up now is that the weaker PSU supplies the 6 pin, and the stronger the 8 pin. Having gone over Kirchhoff's Voltage Law in my head, it seems that I could symetrically load the PSUs connecting one of the two molex->6 pins to a different PSU, so that each PSU would supply half the current for both the 6 pin and the 8 pin. But for now I've assumed that the biggest load comes from the 8 pin, just from an educated guess, and given that the biggest PSU. For the first time I'm able to start Shogun 2, which has been the moody game. I KNOW there's not really a power problem, since running the benchmark works great, but there's something funky going on just as it transitions, as I've said earlier. The benchmark of Shogun 2 worked without any problems, but I couldn't start the game itself.

Seems the PSU gave up as it was about to play a video, of all things. Well, I've seen stranger things. It works now. I'm guessing there's about 100W of load on the two separate PSUs now, and 150 on the main. I know the problem was never the main, and if those two PSUs can't handle 100W, even if it would heavily be relying on the 12V rail, then fuck it.

I'm happy, anyway! Stuff works!
 
Some advice please, PC GAF:

I had just replaced my power supply with a model less prone to exploding (now have a CoolerMaster silent pro 1000w). It's way more wattage than I need as I'm only running a Phenom II 940 with stock heatsink/fan and one 4870, but I figured I'd be future-proofed.

Anyway, since installing the PSU my CPU has gotten hotter and the fan has been spinning MUCH louder and faster, and the whole top/back of the case is really warm (CPU is at 51C idle with the fan going at over 3000rpm). The PSU is at the top of the case and has a large fan pointed downward onto the mobo.

So my question is, is it common for these kinds of PSUs to really heat up the system when working properly? Should I be concerned about the PSU heat, or should I just buy a new case with a bottom mount PSU configuration?

Thanks!
 
Is getting a new PC right now a good time?

Thinking about getting one as i need it for the Holidays.
I thing i dont know is, might sound stupid is, if you use the stock CPU fan can you change to a better one to overclock the CPU?
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
2n7oym0.jpg


best cable management i can do for now =/
'
thanks again pcgaf for all of the help.

(special thanks to Hazaro and LordCanti) ;)
Click to expand...

No problem. Your build looks great! If the 8-pin CPU cable wouldn't reach behind the mobo, you can always buy something like this (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036ORCJY/?tag=neogaf0e-20)

Though I can understand not wanting to spend an additional $8 on a cable right after building a computer. I think it took me...mmm....two months or so, to finally get tired of the cable being draped across my video card, lol.

Does the PSU have a vent down there? If not, you may want to flip it around so that the fan is facing up. Should help it's longevity, and your case temps (one more fan exhausting air).

Everything else seems to be in proper order though. Congrats.
 
Heppell said:
Is getting a new PC right now a good time?
Click to expand...

Pc technology keeps changing at such a fast pace, that you are never going to get the "best" time to buy a new pc. You buy one when you need it, and accept the fact that in six months there is going to be better tech in the market.

I knew a friend that was always waiting for that new piece that was "coming out next month." He had pieces that were a year apart, and till this day I still don't know if he has put together that build.

Heppell said:
Thinking about getting one as i need it for the Holidays.
I thing i dont know is, might sound stupid is, if you use the stock CPU fan can you change to a better one to overclock the CPU?
Click to expand...

Yes, you can replace the fan, and it is fairly easy to change.
 
Speaking of good deals, Newegg has the i5 2500k for $205 for the weekend. There's an insane amount of combo deals for that processor as well, if you choose "View more combos" -- motherboards, power supplies, RAM, etc. I'm probably going to go with one of the combos that gives me $20 off with a mobo -- for a total of about $35 off between the two! Awesome! Glad I waited a bit.

EDIT: Thinking about pairing the i5 2500k with this mobo:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130583

Can anybody think of a reason not to go for that one? And any ideas why it's more expensive than this one?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130571

What about this one? Does Biostar make decent motherboards?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138298
 
asking a question: basically when i was fitting the hyper 12 plus i did the noobie mistake of fitting it the wrong way (pointing up to the case/down to gpu) because it was the first time putting a computer together. anyway, i don't think its actually affecting my computer but its bothering me because it's not 'right'. will i be able to move it around in the case or will i have to take the whole thing out?
 
The 6/8 pin ATX is definitely a tad too short but it is actually possible to get it up there and twist it to fit with some will-power - I didn't need to use any extensions.
 
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