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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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kiyomi

Member
NVIDIA gives you features and special tech, AMD gives you raw performance:$.
I always see that argument, but right now in the UK at least, a Gigabyte 770 costs you £250 while a Gigabyte 280X is £244.

I know Anandtech's Bench has them matched pretty evenly, but isn't the 770 generally regarded the card to go for if you have the budget? £6 extra seems like pittance for a better card.

Also, a strange request, are there any UK'ers here that would/could help get me a 64-bit ISO on USB? I don't think I know anyone with a 64-bit OS to create an ISO from. :'(
 

mkenyon

Banned
I always see that argument, but right now in the UK at least, a Gigabyte 770 costs you £250 while a Gigabyte 280X is £244.

I know Anandtech's Bench has them matched pretty evenly, but isn't the 770 generally regarded the card to go for if you have the budget? £6 extra seems like pittance for a better card.

Also, a strange request, are there any UK'ers here that would/could help get me a 64-bit ISO on USB? I don't think I know anyone with a 64-bit OS to create an ISO from. :'(
3GB vs. 2GB, plus way better memory bandwidth on the 280x.

Plus you can easily increase the clock speed on 280x's by about 200-300MHz. My 7970 Matrix gives me a 3DMark score that's a few hundred short of a reference 780 :p
 

kiyomi

Member
3GB vs. 2GB, plus way better memory bandwidth on the 280x.

Plus you can easily increase the clock speed on 280x's by about 200-300MHz. My 7970 Matrix gives me a 3DMark score that's a few hundred short of a reference 780 :p

Dayum, okay. That's tempting then.

Would 550W be enough to handle overclocking the 4670K and a 280X?
 
I always see that argument, but right now in the UK at least, a Gigabyte 770 costs you £250 while a Gigabyte 280X is £244.

I know Anandtech's Bench has them matched pretty evenly, but isn't the 770 generally regarded the card to go for if you have the budget? £6 extra seems like pittance for a better card.

Also, a strange request, are there any UK'ers here that would/could help get me a 64-bit ISO on USB? I don't think I know anyone with a 64-bit OS to create an ISO from. :'(

Do you mean Windows 8? Because it is legal to download the ISO, you can get it from Microsoft. There are some links I could find for you once you confirm it's Win 8 (and stand alone, I presume?).

edit: Or you can just google it. I had to redownload an ISO once asI only had a digital key. I got it directly from the MS site.
 

kiyomi

Member
Do you mean Windows 8? Because it is legal to download the ISO, you can get it from Microsoft. There are some links I could find for you once you confirm it's Win 8 (and stand alone, I presume?).

Yes, but you need a 64-bit OS to create a 64-bit ISO. If you try and create an ISO from a 32-bit system (i.e, my laptop), it will just create a 32-bit ISO. So I've been lead to believe.
 
Would this be a good buy for $900 (and a two hour drive)? It's on Craigslist (and used for approximately 10 months), but I would be able to verify it works before purchasing. It looks great in the photos:

Case: NZXT Phantom Full Tower Gaming Case - White

Case Lighting: Liquid Neon Thunder Pattern Light - Blue

IBUYPOWER Harmony SRS Sound Reduction System - Reduce System Noise

Processor: Intel i7 3930K Processor (6x 3.20GHz/12MB L3 Cache) - Intel Core i7 3930K

Processor Cooling Liquid CPU Cooling System [Intel] - ARC Dual Silent High Performance Fan Upgrade (Push-Pull Airflow)

16 GB [4 GB X4] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - G.Skill Ripjaws X

Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 780 - 3GB

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 -- 4x PCI-E 2.0 x16

Power Supply: 1350 Watt - Thermaltake Toughpower-1350M - Free Upgrade to 1500 Watt Toughpower-1500M ($40 Savings)

1 TB HARD DRIVE -- 32M Cache, 7200 RPM, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive

Optical Drive: [12X Blu-Ray] LG BLU-RAY Reader (and DVD reader/writer)

Flash Media Reader / Writer 12-In-1 Internal Flash Media Card Reader/Writer - Black

NZXT Sentry 2 Touch Screen Fan Controller & Temperature Display

Sound Card: 3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard

Network Card: Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100)

Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional + Office Starter 2010 (Includes basic versions of Word and Excel) - 64-bit

3 Year Standard Warranty Service from IBUYPOWER
 

Kiru

Member
Yes, but you need a 64-bit OS to create a 64-bit ISO. If you try and create an ISO from a 32-bit system (i.e, my laptop), it will just create a 32-bit ISO. So I've been lead to believe.

I think that's bullshit. I downloaded a 64Bit ISO with my 32Bit Vista back then. Installed Windows 7 64Bit just fine. Maybe you mean there's some recognition on the MS site that automatically downloads a 32Bit ISO, why don't you download it somewhere else, even pirate sites, you can find retail ISO files to use with your own legit key even there. I might find a link to one for you, if you don't mind.
 

Rufus

Member
I think that's bullshit. I downloaded a 64Bit ISO with my 32Bit Vista back then. Installed Windows 7 64Bit just fine. Maybe you mean there's some recognition on the MS site that automatically downloads a 32Bit ISO, why don't you download it somewhere else, even pirate sites, you can find retail ISO files to use with your own legit key even there. I might find a link to one for you, if you don't mind.
Create an ISO, not download one. That't a crucial difference there.
 
Hi All,

Just this week just after 14 months, my Gigabyte Aivia Osmium Cherry Red Mechanical Keyboard died. It seems like it is out of warranty, so time to find a good replacement.

Anyone have any suggestions for a Cherry Red full Mechanical Keyboard (even missing number pad is fine) that has uses Cherry Reds, has a good warranty (prefer 2 years+), has good build quality, and I prefer is backlit? I can go either way on backlight. I just don't want to be burned by a keyboard after 14 months after spending 100+ dollars.
 

Water

Member
Just this week just after 14 months, my Gigabyte Aivia Osmium Cherry Red Mechanical Keyboard died. It seems like it is out of warranty, so time to find a good replacement.

Anyone have any suggestions for a Cherry Red full Mechanical Keyboard (even missing number pad is fine) that has uses Cherry Reds, has a good warranty (prefer 2 years+), has good build quality, and I prefer is backlit? I can go either way on backlight. I just don't want to be burned by a keyboard after 14 months after spending 100+ dollars.
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=458496

Corsair has gaming-oriented boards with Reds and backlighting. Ducky is a bit more expensive, more classic styling instead of "gamer" styling, and they have boards available with pretty much every switch type, backlit and not backlit. The "Shine" models at least are backlit.

If you are right-handed and you don't actually require a numpad, I warmly recommend buying a board that does not have one. Significantly more ergonomic.
 
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=458496

Corsair has gaming-oriented boards with Reds and backlighting. Ducky is a bit more expensive, more classic styling instead of "gamer" styling, and they have boards available with pretty much every switch type, backlit and not backlit. The "Shine" models at least are backlit.

If you are right-handed and you don't actually require a numpad, I warmly recommend buying a board that does not have one. Significantly more ergonomic.

Thanks. Excuse my complete ignorance but how are they more ergonomic?
 

Water

Member
If you play wasd, you can have mouse closer, so youre arms are not stretched as wide apart.
Yep, that's the reason. The optimal place on the desk for a mouse is where the mousing hand falls naturally. Unfortunately, keyboards need to be centered in front of you for typing, so the right side of the keyboard is bound to be blocking the optimal mouse location. This is true even for a compact keyboard, but the wider the keyboard is, the farther the mouse is from the optimal position. When you let your hand rest on the keyboard and then reach out to grab the mouse far on the side, you can feel your shoulder and arm muscles working and needing permanent tension just to keep the hand there. That's a recipe for sore shoulder/neck in the long term. It also lessens your control on the mouse, and makes it slower to switch between mousing and typing.

I can touch type on a numpad, but I haven't owned a keyboard with a numpad in 10 years. The ergonomic loss isn't worth it for me, and it isn't worth it for maybe 95% of people; no numpad should be the default on mass-market keyboards.

If I really wanted to have a numpad, I'd buy one separately, so it wouldn't be permanently messing up my mousing. There are also mechanical numpads from many of the better kb manufacturers like Leopold, Filco and Topre.
 

Panzon

Member
Went to MicroCenter today to look at some of the parts I need in person and didn't wanna leave the store haha. For the first time ever I felt like I knew what I was talking about to my wife and friends as i broke down certain cases, CPUs, GPUs, etc. They were blown away by my new found knowledge which is all thanks to you guys.

Anyway, my favorite item was the ASUS 144Hz monitor. Contrary to what I've read online I thought the picture quality was great. It was right across from an IPS monitor which also looked absolutely stunning but not by too much imo. Actually we looked at all IPS monitors on display and some others but my wife wants me to get the ASUS one so I guess my choice is made :p

Definitely will finish my build by mid April and can't wait to test everything out and play some games with you guys
 

mothball

Member
So I'm thinking of building an emulation HTPC to hook up to my PVM. I'll be using a special GPU to output the older consoles' native resolutions directly, and that GPU is based on an HD 5450. I was only planning on emulating through N64 and PS1, but since I'm going to have the 5450 in there anyway, I think I might try PS2 and Gamecube/Wii as well.

Is a 5450 enough to run them at 1x (maybe even 2x) resolution? If so, I'd be pairing it with an i5-4570S or 4670K. Otherwise, I think I'll just grab an i3-4130.
 

scogoth

Member
So I'm thinking of building an emulation HTPC to hook up to my PVM. I'll be using a special GPU to output the older consoles' native resolutions directly, and that GPU is based on an HD 5450. I was only planning on emulating through N64 and PS1, but since I'm going to have the 5450 in there anyway, I think I might try PS2 and Gamecube/Wii as well.

Is a 5450 enough to run them at 1x (maybe even 2x) resolution? If so, I'd be pairing it with an i5-4570S or 4670K. Otherwise, I think I'll just grab an i3-4130.

GPU should have no affect on emulation. Grab the 4670K, overclock it as much as you can.
 
NoRéN;106153886 said:
You can't afford not to!

2 hour drive is the only killer. I would hate to make the drive only to have that be sold or not look like the pics.

Agh, this is so tough! So everyone thinks it's worth it even though I was just going to upgrade my graphics card? I was going to just get a gtx 780, so I'm just paying approximately 450 more and getting a stupendously better computer than my current dell xps 8300 (which I think I can sell for around 350 anyways)? Right? I need a little extra push and then I'm going to seal the deal. He's willing to drive halfway to make it less of a trip. He is also sending me a video of a full boot up. Anything else I should do to cover myself?

Most importantly, does this look like a good comp for the upcoming Oculus Rift dev kit 2?
 
Finished building my new rig, super impressed with the Corsair H100i.

Running as cool as a cucumber.

TMCtDWT.png
 

scogoth

Member
Where do these people live with 17C ambient? I've never been in a house that was less than 21C. 17C is so cold! I assume lots of air conditioning.
 
I am sure it will be great, but idle temps mean little. Put the CPU under 100% load, with something like Prime95, and then, see.
I already did Prime95 it and it was around ~45c under full load.
Where do these people live with 17C ambient? I've never been in a house that was less than 21C. 17C is so cold! I assume lots of air conditioning.
No air conditioning, just the United Kingdom :).
 
Tried to overclock my 4650K last week, and I'm running into a bit of instability.

According to the guide in the OP a 33x multiplier should be matched with a 1.111 voltage. I couldn't get it to boot at that level, but it would at 1.15 and it seemed relatively stable at 1.175.

It only crashes every once every couple hours, but once every couple weeks would be better. Do I just keep upping the voltage until the blue screens of death stop? I also have XMP enabled so my RAM runs at the right frequency.
 
Tried to overclock my 4650K last week, and I'm running into a bit of instability.

According to the guide in the OP a 33x multiplier should be matched with a 1.111 voltage. I couldn't get it to boot at that level, but it would at 1.15 and it seemed relatively stable at 1.175.

It only crashes every once every couple hours, but once every couple weeks would be better. Do I just keep upping the voltage until the blue screens of death stop? I also have XMP enabled so my RAM runs at the right frequency.

You could try manually setting the RAM or even down clocking (using a smaller multiplier) it a tad first then try to find a good OC stable for the CPU first.
 

mkenyon

Banned
What else do you guys use your 5.25" bays for other than an optical drive? I saw a cool little drawer but that was about it.
Reservoirs, pump/reservoir combos, fan controllers, Aquaero units. Basically water cooling is the only time you'd use one.

Maybe something like a SATA dock or SD card reader.
780. Shadow play and G-Sync too stronk.
Tried to overclock my 4650K last week, and I'm running into a bit of instability.

According to the guide in the OP a 33x multiplier should be matched with a 1.111 voltage. I couldn't get it to boot at that level, but it would at 1.15 and it seemed relatively stable at 1.175.

It only crashes every once every couple hours, but once every couple weeks would be better. Do I just keep upping the voltage until the blue screens of death stop? I also have XMP enabled so my RAM runs at the right frequency.
More volts. Every chip is a snowflake with its own requirements.
You assume that everyone here lives a warm climate?
He lives in Canada. So unless you're Scandinavian or Russian, chances are you do live in a warmer climate. :p
 

Tabasco

Member
My PC has always been unstable.

I was playing Titanfall and all of a sudden it crashes to the desktop. :(

Troubleshooting tips I should follow? I get the ".exe has stopped working" pop-up.
 

scogoth

Member
He lives in Canada. So unless you're Scandinavian or Russian, chances are you do live in a warmer climate. :p

Open window in winter = best cooling. Almost got my i7-930 to 4.5Ghz on "air" with the window open. I got it to boot but could not run 3dmark. Now that my loop is working again and have the ockey/ocscreen/whatever Asus call it, I can overclock from bios without restarting. Need to do another run.
 

scogoth

Member
My PC has always been unstable.

I was playing Titanfall and all of a sudden it crashes to the desktop. :(

Troubleshooting tips I should follow? I get the ".exe has stopped working" pop-up.
Event viewer > application logs
Also check system logs for any driver or OS issues
 

jfoul

Member

The XFX Double D Radeon R9 290 is awesome price/performance, if you can get it at MSRP $399.99. Skip the XFX Black Edition Radeon R9 290, because the Gigabyte GHZ Edition is faster, and only $5 more. I really like EVGA cards, but the Gigabyte GHZ offers more (backplate) and it's better performing.

I would go with the Gigabye Geforce GTX 780, purchase the GHZ edition over OC REV 2.0. Identical price, higher clocks, and it comes with a backplate.


Amazon - Gigabyte GTX780 GV-N780GHZ-3GD $509.99 New / $469.55 Open Box

HardOCP Gold Award
 

Tabasco

Member
Event viewer > application logs
Also check system logs for any driver or OS issues
There are so many different things that I don't know about in Event Viewer that it's confusing to figure out what's wrong with my PC.

Should I screencap the Event Viwer window and post it here?
 

Exuro

Member
My roommate is looking for a new mouse. He'd like something good for gaming, but he would like driver support in linux. I glanced around and only saw windows support for most mice so he wouldn't get adjustable dpi settings and such which stink. Does anyone know of any linux driver supported gaming mice?

Thanks.
 

maneil99

Member
The XFX Double D Radeon R9 290 is awesome price/performance, if you can get it at MSRP $399.99. Skip the XFX Black Edition Radeon R9 290, because the Gigabyte GHZ Edition is faster, and only $5 more. I really like EVGA cards, but the Gigabyte GHZ offers more (backplate) and it's better performing.

I would go with the Gigabye Geforce GTX 780, purchase the GHZ edition over OC REV 2.0. Identical price, higher clocks, and it comes with a backplate.


Amazon - Gigabyte GTX780 GV-N780GHZ-3GD $509.99 New / $469.55 Open Box

HardOCP Gold Award
Backplate has no use unless you WC.
 

turcy

Member
my new rig [finally] arrived yesterday [after three long weeks held up by the vancouver trucker strike]!

basic specs;

maximus gene VI mobo
i7 4770k
corsair h60
evga gtx 780ti dual classified
16gb ram
ssd & hdd combo
fractal define mini case

this is my first new rig in ~10 years, and i've been having fun catching up with all the latest & greatest games [as well as running old favs like CS:S in crazy resolutions].

this thread was a huge help in my part decisions, so thanks a lot guys.

will be looking into overclocking my processor soon, but i'm going to enjoy it at stock speed for a little longer before tampering.
 
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