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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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cool, thanks for that!
Google helped me out with this same exact problem last night. Figured out you needed to go into Disk Management and format it since it was a RAW drive. Took about 4 and a half hours for it to format a 3TB (2.7) drive.
After I got it all set up, I found out that with the HDD enabled, it increased my boot time significantly, even though I went into BIOS and told it to only boot my SSD. So I went into Device Manager and disabled the Seagate 3TB. I'll re-enable it whenever I need to backup my system (every month) or if I need to store stuff on it. This whole process was a pain the ass.
I'm getting my second ssd today. So, it should be as simple as installing it > computer > manage > disk management > find the ssd and format or something?
NoRéN;108022800 said:
I didn't have to format my Samsung EVO 250GB SSD. I'm not sure you need to format SSDs, only RAW HDDs.
If your computer doesn't already recognize it after installation, you might have to right click on your computer, click on Device Manager (on the left), then enable your new SSD.
aww, fuck yes!
So, install > hook up > start computer and what then? Did you need to do anything in bios?
anchorman128
Member
.... Go ahead and post questions like that in this thread instead of messing around for so long. It is a very rudimentary process that almost everyone in this thread should know by now. You would have gotten a reply and been on your way in 15mins no 4 and 1/2 hours haha. Either way, I'm glad you figured it out. Enjoy your new build.
Nah, I figured it out by Googling the problem within 20 minutes. Would've probably taken just as long for someone to reply here lol. The 4 and a half hours was to format the HDD.
You can just use quick format, takes less than a minute.
Full format actually writes 0's to the drive. Quick format marks all sectors as deleted and available to be overwritten. No difference in performance, this is essentially the same thing as putting all files on a drive in the recycle bin and emptying, though it also sets up the partition table in both scenarios too, which is the important bit.
NoRéN;108023106 said:
Go to Start menu, type partition, select "create and format hard disk partitions". Right click your new drive, format, follow the wizard.
thanks for the info.
Would using Windows 8's "Refresh" feature good enough after changing the motherboard/CPU or I'm really forced to format and re-install?
I'm about to order a new motherboard/cpu/ram but I formated my PC like 2 months ago and I don't want to start from scratch all over again.
I'm about to order a new motherboard/cpu/ram but I formated my PC like 2 months ago and I don't want to start from scratch all over again.
raviolico
Member
yeaaah....i know PC GAF, building myself from the ground up is the way to go, but:
is this set good enough for modern gaming in 1080p? BF4 in 60fps?
http://www.mediamarkt.de/mcs/product/ACER-Predator-G3-605,48353,462768,1176401.html?langId=-3
thanks!
is this set good enough for modern gaming in 1080p? BF4 in 60fps?
http://www.mediamarkt.de/mcs/product/ACER-Predator-G3-605,48353,462768,1176401.html?langId=-3
thanks!
LOL, that sucks for me. A bit too late, but nice to know. So everyone always uses quick format when they install new storage? Then what's full format for?
Prophet Steve
Member
Not on ultra, that is slightly below 50fps unless an update or the new Nvidia drivers have improved performance in that game.
But probably on a bit lower settings.
anchorman128
Member
I went ahead and threw something together for about 600 bucks, there is obviously room for changes, or downgrades if you want to save some money. I didn't include keyboard/mouse monitor as I assume you have one from your current your computer your posting on, and you can buy an OS for $10 bucks on reddit.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock B85M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Kingston 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($54.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSB0 DVD/CD Writer ($15.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $600.90
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-13 15:01 EDT-0400)
I run an i5 2500k at 5.0GHz and an Asus DCUII 760 and I max out BF4 minus down sampling and lower AA at 60fps. It's not 100% locked at 60fps, but very close I only ever see slight drops into the 50s.
adamantypants
Member
GTX 760 w/ 1.5gb RAM is a thing? I've only ever seen them at 2gb. That build should get you 1080/60 dependent on settings
I have this problem for some time, but I can't find a solution. My audio setup is two KRK Rokit 8's with an external soundcard. When I'm doing just some random internet stuff, watch a video etc I don't have this problem. But when I start up a game I get static noise out of my speakers. I've turned the volume of each of my speaker to like 30% , because otherwise I'm going mental over it. I first thought it were the cables, but I only get it when I startup a game.
I've recorded some of the noise (you might have to turn up your volume): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldeE4X6tC6M
Anyone that knows what is causing this and what I can do solve it?
I've recorded some of the noise (you might have to turn up your volume): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldeE4X6tC6M
Anyone that knows what is causing this and what I can do solve it?
Here's my current setup.
I recently got one of those fine Korean 1440p monitors
and overclocked it to a nice 96hz. My faithful 2GB GTX 670 isn't able to get me those buttery smooth framerates anymore so I'm looking to upgrade to something on the high/very high end. With my tax return coming in soon, I'm looking to treat myself and spend around 700-800 dollars.
What card would GAF recommend?
I recently got one of those fine Korean 1440p monitors
Qnix Master race
What card would GAF recommend?
Or you could reference the other answers we've given you for this question
Checked those, I believe it was the Antec and a Raidmax? Forgot now it's been a few days. Those are more expensive than the Corsair though
I'm actually wondering now if I even need a modular PSU. I'm only going to have an R7 275, SSD, 1 HDD, and a thats it. I might add a HDD and a DVD drive later. It's going into an R4, should I just go with a non-modular and tuck the few cables I don't use away?
edit: but then I'll be stuck with a shit ton of Molex connectors I don't need..
I believe it is an OEM only part with 192 bit memory instead of 256.
SMOK3Y
Generous Member
anchorman128
Member
getting this one.. thanks mate
You wont regret it. Beautiful case, great build quality, and WAY more room inside than you would expect for such a small case. Easily my #1 choice for a mini-itx case.
Here's my current setup.
I recently got one of those fine Korean 1440p monitorsand overclocked it to a nice 96hz. My faithful 2GB GTX 670 isn't able to get me those buttery smooth framerates anymore so I'm looking to upgrade to something on the high/very high end. With my tax return coming in soon, I'm looking to treat myself and spend around 700-800 dollars.Qnix Master race
What card would GAF recommend?
The top end card right now - the 780 Ti, is $650, so well under your budget. Get one of those, sell your 670 for $150 to a fellow gaffer and bask in glory.
What's the external soundcard? How are you hooking up your external soundcard? Optical? RCA? I would suspect your motherboard if you're doing RCA out.
second ssd just for games. Stuck with MBR. Thanks! Now just finishing the ssd tweaks.
Seagate 600 Pro 240GB SSD is $120 right now.
$10 cheaper than what it was 5 days ago:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...details.asp?EdpNo=8936552&srkey=XEA-102360143
Or you can buy through Amazon via Circuit City / Tigerdirect.
P.S. This has a 5 year warranty.
$10 cheaper than what it was 5 days ago:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicat...details.asp?EdpNo=8936552&srkey=XEA-102360143
Or you can buy through Amazon via Circuit City / Tigerdirect.
P.S. This has a 5 year warranty.
Roland UA25 EX.
I have two XLR female - XLR female going to my subwoofer (For the L - R). From my subwoofer I have an XLR female - Jack male going to my speaker (one for the left and one for the right one). The Jack side is plugged in my speaker.
Could the problem be the Jack side? I have also an XLR input on my speaker, but I used the Jack because I had those cables already,.
DrBaalzamon
Member
Alright well my 4670k is OC'd stable at 1.25v @ 4.1ghz - No other settings messed with and thats good enough for me! With my CM 212 Hyper its at no more than 76c, I dont wanna much around trying to squeeze any more out of it on air. How fun!
Bought it five days ago, called them, told them about it, bam, $10 back. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm thinking about OC'ing my 4670k to 4.4 using Corsair H100i. Not sure how to go about it or if it'll be stable enough. Gotta do some research. If anyone here can share some insight, it'd be greatly appreciated.
No problem.
That "feature" is not much different than doing a fresh install.
It is highly likely that an install of windows will work fine with a changed motherboard without a reinstall anyway.
Could be. If you have XLR input on your speakers, why not test them and rule out your speaker being the culprit? My first and last problem with this was poor EMI shielding from my motherboard til I got a internal soundcard.
SMOK3Y
Generous Member
and as a bonus I can still use my AIO for CPU thought I might have to ditch it now just figure out what mini itx board I need/want as I can still use all other components it seems
Seems like a lot of vcore for a really small overclock. Think you need to do a bit more reading on haswell overclocking, for 4.1ghz id expect very close vcore to stock. At 1.25v of expect 4.4ghz.
I currently have my 4670k overclocked to 4.1GHz only on 1.10v. Not sure if you want to tone down the voltage to bring the temp down a bit.
DrBaalzamon
Member
Good call! From what I read they tell you to start at 1.25v, ill start bringing it down and running prime to see how things pan out. Thanks for the headsup! Should I go down to 1.1v and then run prime95? I set the core to manual so it doesnt go up and down it stays locked at that etc. Thanks!
Slight Edit: I set the VCore to 1.10v and it crashed to blue screen at boot, trying 1.2v
Intel's own chipset SSD were/are the most reliable
Next was Samsung/Crucial
Everything else is above those for DOA, then (older) OCZ is king.
Still the failure rates are much much better than HDD. It's something I don't even consider failing.
anchorman128
Member
This isn't always the case, sometimes it will work just fine however have completed two builds inparticular where I went from AMD to Intel and the result was constant blue screens when trying to boot into Windows. Sometimes a reformat/reinstall is the only way.
The other alternative is to mute your system sound and see if that works. It's an issue I find to be notorious among laptops but not rare on regular desktop computers either.
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