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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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B

Bleepey

Member
Thanks for the help everyone I got my PC together. The OS is installed, and I am now looking for a cheap game to give my 670 a workout. I might buy Crysis so I can say my PC runs crysis. Not crysis 3 mind you, no crysis 1. Just so I can take the specs to max and brag about how my 670 runs a 7 year old game.

It seems I might need a HDD too. My 128 ggb memory on my SSD is fucking tiny.
 
P

Portman

Member
Can I get an opinion on what I've put together? Budget is $4,000 with some room to go up or down as needed.

I'm looking to get a ROG Swift PG278Q once they're available as the monitor for the system since I don't have a viable monitor currently.

In regards to the storage I wasn't sure if this would be the best choice or doing something like a single larger SSD (500GB) for OS and games or replace the Raptor with that large SSD and/or a WD Black 1TB as an example.

I'm looking to overclock so I'm not sure if I would need to step up to the 1000W power supply to be safe or if that will be sufficient. The RAM was a quick pick just to get it on there, I'm just partial to Corsair.

Apologies if I've missed anything, read through the thread and have been tweaking the build so I'll reply back with needed info on anything. No real time frame on the build, the monitor availability is what is controlling it (if announced tomorrow I could pull the trigger once parts are finalized)

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3rgZQ
 
I

Indignate

Member
So, like most, I only want to use the SSD for the OS and some high frequency programs.

Anyway to move stuff like the Users folder over or set the default install root to my HDD?
 
W

Water

Member
Portman said:
In regards to the storage I wasn't sure if this would be the best choice or doing something like a single larger SSD (500GB) for OS and games or replace the Raptor with that large SSD and/or a WD Black 1TB as an example.
Click to expand...
Forget fast-spinning HDDs, they are useless. At your budget, a 500GB SSD is the minimum you should go for. I'm probably grabbing a 1TB when I build because the prices have gone low enough. If you need mass storage space in addition, get cheap, slow-spinning, quiet 2+TB HDDs for that purpose.
 
A

anchorman128

Member
Portman said:
Can I get an opinion on what I've put together? Budget is $4,000 with some room to go up or down as needed.

I'm looking to get a ROG Swift PG278Q once they're available as the monitor for the system since I don't have a viable monitor currently.

In regards to the storage I wasn't sure if this would be the best choice or doing something like a single larger SSD (500GB) for OS and games or replace the Raptor with that large SSD and/or a WD Black 1TB as an example.

I'm looking to overclock so I'm not sure if I would need to step up to the 1000W power supply to be safe or if that will be sufficient. The RAM was a quick pick just to get it on there, I'm just partial to Corsair.

Apologies if I've missed anything, read through the thread and have been tweaking the build so I'll reply back with needed info on anything. No real time frame on the build, the monitor availability is what is controlling it (if announced tomorrow I could pull the trigger once parts are finalized)

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3rgZQ
Click to expand...

Build looks good, however with the budget I would definitely step up to the 1000 watt just for future additions/overclocking. However, it isn't completely necessary. Also, I would definitely go with something like a 240GB SSD for OS and a few games and a 2TB for storage (most games see hardly any difference on an SSD, well not enough to justify the cost of a 500GB or 1TB quite yet). Lastly, if the budget is that high you might want to consider the i7 4930K 6 core CPU. Although it's main advantages would be in encoding, rendering, etc. not gaming. $550 is a lot for a processor however, so just a suggestion.
 
P

Portman

Member
anchorman128 said:
Build looks good, however with the budget I would definitely step up to the 1000 watt just for future additions/overclocking. However, it isn't completely necessary. Also, I would definitely go with something like a 240GB SSD for OS and a few games and a 2TB for storage (most games see hardly any difference on an SSD, well not enough to justify the cost of a 500GB or 1TB quite yet). Lastly, if the budget is that high you might want to consider the i7 4930K 6 core CPU. Although it's main advantages would be in encoding, rendering, etc. not gaming. $550 is a lot for a processor however, so just a suggestion.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. I had looked at the 6 core but I wasn't sure if it would make a big difference for me gaming wise and for the added cost (plus for some reason I was thinking it was a different socket).

I'll go ahead and switch it up to the 1000W on my list.

Updated list for additional feedback from anyone:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3rkjF
 
H

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Portman said:
Thanks for the feedback. I had looked at the 6 core but I wasn't sure if it would make a big difference for me gaming wise and for the added cost (plus for some reason I was thinking it was a different socket).

I'll go ahead and switch it up to the 1000W on my list.

Updated list for additional feedback from anyone:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3rkjF
Click to expand...
The 860W Plat is more than enough. It can also overdraw like a motherfucker so you'll be fine. If you plan on 3 or 4x GPU or a hexacore you can get the 1000W. I'd probably get the 1000W even though I know I wouldn't need it personally, but the 860W is more than enough.

Ditch the Velo HDD. It'll be the loudest thing in your case. If you only need 1TB storage just get a WD Blue (+ one for backup). I mean honestly even a 1TB SSD would be good.

You want 2x8GB for RAM, not 4 sticks.

And honestly if you are dropping up to 4k you might as well go for the hexacore, it's another $400 for extra cores and PCI-E lanes which you might actually use.
 
L

llClickll

Banned
Portman said:
Thanks for the feedback. I had looked at the 6 core but I wasn't sure if it would make a big difference for me gaming wise and for the added cost (plus for some reason I was thinking it was a different socket).

I'll go ahead and switch it up to the 1000W on my list.

Updated list for additional feedback from anyone:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3rkjF
Click to expand...

If you've got the bling to throw around, why not just splurge a little more and go for a 1TB SSD like this one?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W16OU/?tag=neogaf0e-20

This way, you don't have to go through the hassle of having to disable your HDD whenever you don't use it, in order to fast boot into Windows in less than 10 seconds.
 
G

Guess Who

Banned
I have a Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition that I've OC'd to 3.8GHz (couldn't get it quite stable at 4GHz). Would it be worth buying an FX-8350 to save the additional cost/hassle of an i5 and a new mobo, or should I just stick with the Phenom until I can go full Intel?
 
maneil99

maneil99

Member
Guess Who said:
I have a Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition that I've OC'd to 3.8GHz (couldn't get it quite stable at 4GHz). Would it be worth buying an FX-8350 to save the additional cost/hassle of an i5 and a new mobo, or should I just stick with the Phenom until I can go full Intel?
Click to expand...

stick till you go full intel.
 
C

ChawlieTheFair

pip pip cheerio you slags!
Hey guys, looking to get a new monitor in about the $200-250 range.
Specs:
GTX 680
i5 3570k @4.4ghz
8GB RAM
Win 8

Basically, I want to stay in at 1080p so that i'm more likely to get 60 fps with max/close to max settings. Though I do play a lot of CSGO, which isn't a heavy strain but I wouldn't mind a monitor that goes along particularly well with it. There's also the question of 120hz, but seeing as how CSGO is pretty much the only game I constantly play with several hundred FPS, I doubt 120HZ is a good idea, especially if I need vsync cause of bad screen tearing (ie titanfall), which will presumably lower my FPS even more.

So BASICALLY, I would like a $250-300 really really good 1080p monitor, or a half-decent 120hz one if yall think that's a good idea.
 
M

Mairu

Member
ChawlieTheFair said:
Hey guys, looking to get a new monitor in about the $200-250 range.
Specs:
GTX 680
i5 3570k @4.4ghz
8GB RAM
Win 8

Basically, I want to stay in at 1080p so that i'm more likely to get 60 fps with max/close to max settings. Though I do play a lot of CSGO, which isn't a heavy strain but I wouldn't mind a monitor that goes along particularly well with it. There's also the question of 120hz, but seeing as how CSGO is pretty much the only game I constantly play with several hundred FPS, I doubt 120HZ is a good idea, especially if I need vsync cause of bad screen tearing (ie titanfall), which will presumably lower my FPS even more.

So BASICALLY, I would like a $250-300 really really good 1080p monitor, or a half-decent 120hz one if yall think that's a good idea.
Click to expand...

It's lower than your range but it's a fantastic monitor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260055
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dell_u2312hm.htm
auJUv88.jpg
Click to expand...

edit: well I guess it's lower than your range only because it's on sale :p
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
MegaBusta said:
Here's my current setup.
LjH0unu.png


I recently got one of those fine Korean 1440p monitors
Qnix Master race
and overclocked it to a nice 96hz. My faithful 2GB GTX 670 isn't able to get me those buttery smooth framerates anymore so I'm looking to upgrade to something on the high/very high end. With my tax return coming in soon, I'm looking to treat myself and spend around 700-800 dollars.

What card would GAF recommend?
Click to expand...
I was just in the same position. Bought a 780 Ti.
 
A

anchorman128

Member
llClickll said:
If you've got the bling to throw around, why not just splurge a little more and go for a 1TB SSD like this one?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W16OU/?tag=neogaf0e-20

This way, you don't have to go through the hassle of having to disable your HDD whenever you don't use it, in order to fast boot into Windows in less than 10 seconds.
Click to expand...

You don't need to disable it either way, I have a 1TB and a 2TB WD HDD in conjunction with my 120GB SSD and after disabling the Windows splash screen I boot in 6-7 seconds. Restart from desktop to desktop in about 13-15 seconds.

In terms of the build, like I said the 1K watt PSU isn't necessary, but again if you add yet another GPU or some other stuff it may be nice to have the wiggle room. Never know what power hungry chips could come out in the future.

Good choice to not go with the 6 core if all you are doing is gaming, however normally people who spend 2K plus on a computer use it for encoding, rendering, encryption, etc.
 
A

Ashhong

Member
Guys I bought a windows 8.1 pro N key on reddit by mistake. Can I use it on regular pro? I don't even know where to get the ISO or if I can do a clean install with it
 
I

Indignate

Member
Ashhong said:
Guys I bought a windows 8.1 pro N key on reddit by mistake. Can I use it on regular pro? I don't even know where to get the ISO or if I can do a clean install with it
Click to expand...

Aren't N's just stripped down versions of the regular editions? I think they're just missing some media playing stuff, which most people use third party software for anyways.

As for the ISO, a quick google search points me here.

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows-8/n-editions

Download the upgrade perhaps? If its anything like the regular ones, you should have to put in your key and then be able to download the ISO for install later.
 
P

Prophet Steve

Member
Ashhong said:
Guys I bought a windows 8.1 pro N key on reddit by mistake. Can I use it on regular pro? I don't even know where to get the ISO or if I can do a clean install with it
Click to expand...

Indignate said:
Aren't N's just stripped down versions of the regular editions? I think they're just missing some media playing stuff, which most people use third party software for anyways.

As for the ISO, a quick google search points me here.

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows-8/n-editions

Download the upgrade perhaps? If its anything like the regular ones, you should have to put in your key and then be able to download the ISO for install later.
Click to expand...

For legal reasons N is the European version I think where they are not allowed to bundle Media Player with it. You can still download it though, so no worries! But you can't use the key for a non-N version.

EDIT: Oh, and I see a few other apps. But still, you can download them.
 
A

Ashhong

Member
Ah ok thanks. So I'll be able to use the upgrade as a full install?

I saw the seller offered N, looked it up and chose to go with it cause I don't need the stock windows apps (who does?) but now I regret not just going with simple Pro.
 
P

Prophet Steve

Member
Ashhong said:
Ah ok thanks. So I'll be able to use the upgrade as a full install?

I saw the seller offered N, looked it up and chose to go with it cause I don't need the stock windows apps (who does?) but now I regret not just going with simple Pro.
Click to expand...

It is no upgrade, it is a full windows version. So yes, you can do a clean install with it.

The only difference are those apps that are not in it and you can still download them. That's it.
 
R

rafbanaan

Member
Geneijin said:
The other alternative is to mute your system sound and see if that works. It's an issue I find to be notorious among laptops but not rare on regular desktop computers either.
Click to expand...

Alright. I was wrong. I have a Jack male - Jack male going from my soundcard to my subwoofer. From my subwoofer it's a XLR female to XLR female to the speaker.

I had to use a Jack since my soundcard doesn't have XLR output. I've lifted the ground for a second and it went worse. So the jacks might be the problem. I've no idea how I can solve this instead of looking for a new soundcard which has an XLR output and hoping it solves it.

Edit: Finding a soundcard with XLR outputs seems to be hard. It's a Jack. Turning off the system sound didn't help.
 
S

Shining

Member
Objectively Bad Opinion said:
Wow, no, keep the card bro. Turn graphical settings up instead, if you're fine with the CPU's performance.

A good video card doesn't make a mediocre CPU worse.

Congrats btw.
Click to expand...

Well, i did a quick benchmark with the GTX 780 in Metro Last Light and it showd an increase of about 5 fps compared to the GTX 670. So my CPU is a huge bottleneck but i can still run games maxed out with a steady 45-60+ fps.

Can anyone recommend a good PSU for a GTX 780? I need something in the 600-650w range and not too pricy. 12v 42A minimum is important, tho.
 
P

PedroPanache

Member
What's a good free app for better control of multiple monitors? Tried to use the borderless window app and it just moved my game back onto my primary monitor, which was annoying. So, is there a good app to control that or does windows 8.1 have a shortcut key for that, which I'm missing.
 
W

Water

Member
PedroPanache said:
What's a good free app for better control of multiple monitors? Tried to use the borderless window app and it just moved my game back onto my primary monitor, which was annoying. So, is there a good app to control that or does windows 8.1 have a shortcut key for that, which I'm missing.
Click to expand...

I have previously used an Autohotkey script to move windows between monitors, to get them to tile vertically, etc. Found some scripts and fused/modified them into one for my own purposes. Didn't use it with fullscreen borderless windows, but there's a good chance it would work.

Here's the script from my archives. Comments credit the original author of one of the scripts I ripped from.
https://gist.github.com/anonymous/10632734
 
Z

ZombieFred

Unconfirmed Member
I am thinking of overclocking my Processor (Intel Core I7-2600K) and never done any overclocking before, and I do plan to buy a GPU later this year and probably will be tempted to tweak that as well. How do I do this? I also have zero knowledge on water cooling what so ever! What do I need to do? :)
 
S

Simzyy

Member
Anyone know the dimensions of the KFA2 GTX 780? I can't find them anywhere.

Also will using a 780 in a PCIe 2.0 slot matter much? Cheers.
 
R

riflen

Member
Simzyy said:
Anyone know the dimensions of the KFA2 GTX 780? I can't find them anywhere.
Click to expand...

E-mail the vendor. They don't seem to list the dimensions in the manual or on their site, which means you probably wont find it anywhere.

Also will using a 780 in a PCIe 2.0 slot matter much? Cheers.
Click to expand...

In a 16x PCI 2.0 slot, it wont matter. An 8x PCI 2.0 slot might lose you some performance in certain games in comparison with a 16x PCI 3.0.
 
O

ombz

Member
What are the chances my processor is ok?
My computer shut off yesterday while playing Alan wake for a few hours. The power supply felt very hot. The pc will not power up at all now. I checked with my roommates pc and my video card is fine. I didn't check the ram yet and I can't check the cpu since my roommates motherboard is a different socket. I don't know if this matters at all but my harddrive still powers up when connect to the motherboard.
 
R

riflen

Member
ombz said:
What are the chances my processor is ok?
My computer shut off yesterday while playing Alan wake for a few hours. The power supply felt very hot. The pc will not power up at all now. I checked with my roommates pc and my video card is fine. I didn't check the ram yet and I can't check the cpu since my roommates motherboard is a different socket. I don't know if this matters at all but my harddrive still powers up when connect to the motherboard.
Click to expand...

What CPU do you have? Most CPUs today will shut down before they are damaged by high temperatures, so I wouldn't worry too much on that score.

From your description, it's more likely that the motherboard or PSU have developed a fault. You should be able to unplug the PSU from all components and use a paperclip to get it to switch on. If it comes up (its fan runs), then the problem is more likely to be the board.
 
O

ombz

Member
riflen said:
What CPU do you have? Most CPUs today will shut down before they are damaged by high temperatures, so I wouldn't worry too much on that score.

From your description, it's more likely that the motherboard or PSU have developed a fault. You should be able to unplug the PSU from all components and use a paperclip to get it to switch on. If it comes up (its fan runs), then the problem is more likely to be the board.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I will try that when I have chance. The CPU is a 4770k
Oh I should have said external hard drive too
 
H

hepburn3d

Member
Sorry if this has been asked before but ...

Can I set my Windows 7/8 bios to wake on USB detect? i.e. turn on wireless 360 controller and the systems registers activation and turns on?

I'd LOVE to figure this out. I'd even write my own code to do it. I know it wakes from sleep but I want wake from off.

Just be aware when you tell me this isn't possible it'll crush my dreams and make we want to find out even more.
 
S

scogoth

Member
hepburn3d said:
Sorry if this has been asked before but ...

Can I set my Windows 7/8 bios to wake on USB detect? i.e. turn on wireless 360 controller and the systems registers activation and turns on?

I'd LOVE to figure this out. I'd even write my own code to do it. I know it wakes from sleep but I want wake from off.

Just be aware when you tell me this isn't possible it'll crush my dreams and make we want to find out even more.
Click to expand...

I don't think it's possible from USB but you could try and make a device that detects a 360 USB signal and sends a wake on LAN packet to power up the computer.
 
R

riflen

Member
SilverBulletKY said:
It's pretty old but it's a 920 i7.
Click to expand...

Oh hell, that's a great CPU still. With over-clocking you could get even more out of it. You'll be fine.
The 750 Ti is a little more expensive than the 750, but if you're playing games you'd be well advised to spend that small amount more.
 
S

SilverBulletKY

Neo Member
riflen said:
Oh hell, that's a great CPU still. With over-clocking you could get even more out of it. You'll be fine.
The 750 Ti is a little more expensive than the 750, but if you're playing games you'd be well advised to spend that small amount more.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. Looks like it's just around $25 more so I'll get that one. Thanks for the help everyone.
 
B

bucknuticus

Member
So built a new machine reusing some parts and realized the disc drives I have are IDE and new mobo does not have IDE. So instead of buying a cable/new drives I figured I dont even need disc drives since I use steam for everything.

Problem is installing windows. I downloaded an ISO to boot from a thumb drive but I only have a mac to put it on.

I attempted to use Boot Camp Assistant to do it but it keeps erroring out on me.

Anyone have any other suggestions how I can do this on a Mac?
 
K

kennah

Member
Pazuzu9 said:
What's the easiest way to tell if your CPU is holding back the GPU?
Click to expand...

Myth. CPU holds back CPU based things. GPU holds back GPU based things.

bucknuticus said:
So built a new machine reusing some parts and realized the disc drives I have are IDE and new mobo does not have IDE. So instead of buying a cable/new drives I figured I dont even need disc drives since I use steam for everything.

Problem is installing windows. I downloaded an ISO to boot from a thumb drive but I only have a mac to put it on.

I attempted to use Boot Camp Assistant to do it but it keeps erroring out on me.

Anyone have any other suggestions how I can do this on a Mac?
Click to expand...

In Disk Utility RESTORE the ISO to the USB stick.
 
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