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[Kuranghi]

I was making sure the Adjust HDR screen on my PS5 was set up correctly for Gran Turismo 7 (I was pissing around with it the other day) and I want to know how many clicks up from 0 (ie far left) you can go before the "sun" disappears/is clipped on the 1st and 2nd page.

You need to make sure Dynamic Tonemapping (So that includes any dynamic contrast/contrast "enhancer" settings that are on) and HGIG is off before you do this or it won't be an accurate result. The first is effectively the TVs HDR 100% window (ie full white screen) and the 2nd is the TVs HDR 10% window, for the 2nd screen you'll probably find the value where it clips is slightly lower than what they measured for the 10% window of your specific model on www.rtings.com because there are other elements on screen that aren't pure black which will take away some of the TVs "juice" for the 10% window box.

You should press right on the dpad until the point when the sun disappears because if you leave it barely visible then most of the time you'll be leaving HDR juice on the table, the exception being if it truly is barely visible like you have to kind of squint to see its still there, but that won't happen in most cases so just go one more click until it disappears.

Get Your Nits Out For The Lads

I have the lovely & beautiful Sony 65" ZD9/Z9D, here are my results:

* On the 1st page I can do 12 clicks, its barely barely visible at 11 but I got too excited and went to 12 because I was afraid I'd leave juice on the table.
* On the 2nd page I can do 18 clicks, its quite visible at 17 so 18 is needed to avoid throwing away any juice, even if that will result in a tiny amount of clipping in bright highlights.

You can use this to check what nit value the number of clicks corresponds to see if it roughly matches your TV's HDR 100% and HDR 10% window:

PS5 System HDR Settings

PS5 System HDR Peak Brightness Settings analysis

www.hdrgamer.com

If it doesn't line up roughly with rtings measured values then you probably have some dynamic contrast/tonemapping setting on or your TV does dynamic tonemapping all the time and you can't turn it off, making the Adjust HDR screen semi-useless.

Bearing in mind I said the 10% window value will probably be slightly less than the rtings.com's measured value because of the other lit pixels on the screen taking away some juice. From this you can see my 100% window value is ~630 nits and my 10% window value is ~1500 nits, which lines up well with rtings values, losing that bit of brightness on the 10% window for the reason stated previously + the fact that Sony's image presentation philosophy is to clip highlights a tiny bit to increase the APL (Average Picture Level, ie how bright the overall image is).

So guys/guyettes... show me those high beams:




I really want to know what TVs can go higher than 12 on the 1st page and 18 on the 2nd, without clipping. I think some older super high end LCD sets, like the 2018 Samsung Q9FN, the 2019 Samsung Q90R or the Vizio P Series Quantum X 2020, and the 2021 Samsung QN90/94/95A Neo QLED might be able to go past 18 on the 2nd screen, even if the 10% window is lower than my ZD9 on some of those according to rtings, because Samsung prioritise highlight detail over APL and the Vizio was just nuts in terms of brightness output. Not sure about the 1st screen, I have a feeling that ZD9 will be hard to beat unless you have the Vizio P Series Quantum X 2020/2021 or something silly like Samsung's "The Terrace".

p.s - Sorry Xbros, I don't have an Xbox so I don't know what values they assign to each step on the HDR calibration screen and even if I did we couldn't really compare the values since the different imagery on each calibration screen will affect the results slightly.

 

[TonyK]

The appreciated difference between calibrating accurately and totally wrong in the PS5 HDR configuration tool is almost irrelevant. It's like trying to make a good looking face with Elden Ring character's editor.

 

[Kuranghi]

The appreciated difference between calibrating accurately and totally wrong in the PS5 HDR configuration tool is almost irrelevant. It's like trying to make a good looking face with Elden Ring character's editor.

Sorry, but I disagree. If the game uses the Adjust HDR screen, and few games do in fairness, then not setting those screen correctly will produce a sub-optimal image on your display.

For instance if you raise the 3rd screen even one notch to the right then you will never see pure black even if the game asks for the display to show it, effectively removing one of the biggest strengths of FALD LCD/OLED. Or if say, I set the 2nd screen to 10 from the left I'd be capping my peak brightnes to that of a £500 TV and leaving a metric ton of brightness headroom on the table.

Try setting the 2nd screen to minimum and the 3rd screen to maximum and let me know how the image looks in Miles Morales, or any game that uses the Adjust HDR screen.

edit - I just watched the new HDTVTest video on GT7 HDR and he shows exactly how messed up the image can become if you set the Adjust HDR incorrectly.

 

[ReBurn]

I've never calibrated my TV's. Maybe I should.

 

[StateofMajora]

If I get the z9k will you be jealous lol

 

[Little Mac]

If it doesn't line up roughly with rtings measured values then you probably have some dynamic contrast/tonemapping setting on or your TV does dynamic tonemapping all the time and you can't turn it off, making the Adjust HDR screen semi-useless.

What should we do then if this is the case? I got a budget Hisense U7K and according to Rtings.com, it has "Peak 10% Window of 796 cd/m²" in HDR game mode. Based on the click chart I should be at around 14 clicks when the logo is barely visible/disappears. But by eye, the logo doesn't become barely visible until after roughly 25 ish clicks (with contrast enhancers/everything turned off). Which method should I use?

 

[Kuranghi]

What should we do then if this is the case? I got a budget Hisense U7K and according to Rtings.com, it has "Peak 10% Window of 796 cd/m²" in HDR game mode. Based on the click chart I should be at around 14 clicks when the logo is barely visible/disappears. But by eye, the logo doesn't become barely visible until after roughly 25 ish clicks (with contrast enhancers/everything turned off). Which method should I use?

I presume game mode is on, but which picture mode are you actually in?

 

[Little Mac]

I presume game mode is on, but which picture mode are you actually in?

HDR game. HDMI mode is set to enhanced.

 

[keefged4]

HDR game. HDMI mode is set to enhanced.

If your TV doesn't have HGIG or anything like that, it'll most likely be using Dynamic Tone Mapping anyway, so dont worry too much and just go with what the PS5 Calibration screen shows and set it to when the image disappears.

 

[GymWolf]

And some blind people thought that valeria golino was hotter in that movie, smh

 

[Little Mac]

If your TV doesn't have HGIG or anything like that, it'll most likely be using Dynamic Tone Mapping anyway, so dont worry too much and just go with what the PS5 Calibration screen shows and set it to when the image disappears.

I have Dynamic Tone Mapping set to off but I don't think really it turns off based on the ps5 HDR calibration test. Should I turn it back on when calibrating or playing? The Spider-man games, particularly the shadows on the character models, look very dark to me.

 

[keefged4]

I have Dynamic Tone Mapping set to off but I don't think really it turns off based on the ps5 HDR calibration test. Should I turn it back on when calibrating or playing? The Spider-man games, particularly the shadows on the character models, look very dark to me.

I'd leave DTM on if you don't have the option for HGIG on your TV, and set the brightness to 25 ish on the first two screens of the PS5 calibration, and 0 for the third. The PS5 HDR calibration screen is useless without HGIG or DTM off, however if you can still see the sun after 14 clicks even with dtm off, and your display is capable of around 800 nits, then its still using DTM. So just keep it on, and set it up as I've suggested. Set and forget.

 

[Kuranghi]

HDR game. HDMI mode is set to enhanced.

Oh is this the Google OS models? I'm more familiar with Vidaa Hisenses, can you switch to other pictures before switching game mode or does it go straight back to this one named HDR Game?

keefged4 pretty much covered it but if there's no choice of a different Pictute Mode then follow this guide for TVs with undefeatable dynamic tone mapping:

PS5 System HDR Settings

PS5 System HDR Peak Brightness Settings analysis

www.hdrgamer.com

 

[Kuranghi]

And some blind people thought that valeria golino was hotter in that movie, smh

Valeria Golino would be a better wife probably though tbf

 

[Killjoy-NL]

I've never calibrated my TV's. Maybe I should.

You really should.

OT:

I just went with whatever this Vincent Teoh said.

 

[Kuranghi]

Valeria Golino would be a better wife probably though tbf

No one can deny this woman was/is an ultra high level teenage wank fantasy:

This is what she looks like now:

Whereas Valeria looks like this now, I think shes aged considerably more gracefully, though it could more harsh red carpet lighting and resolution than anything:

But for the love of all that is holy look at this interview of BB at the time, just everything about her is fucking so sexy, but particularly the way she smokes and speaks, imagine dirty talk from her just fucking jazz in your pants before you even get them off:



I've just messaged Brenda Bakke on LinkedIn (shes a real estate broker now) to tell her she was my teenage wank fantasy, I mean I didnt write exactly that, but she'll understand.

 

[Kuranghi]

Shit I was just thinking... I hope Brenda Bakke isn't on neogaf, she receives a nice gentlemanly message from me on LinkedIn and meanwhile I'm in here like "ughhhhhh shes a wank fantasy, I would cum in my pants if she talked dirty to me!!!", might make that conversation a bit awkward.

 

[King Dazzar]

The appreciated difference between calibrating accurately and totally wrong in the PS5 HDR configuration tool is almost irrelevant. It's like trying to make a good looking face with Elden Ring character's editor.

This is mostly nonsense. The only exceptions I can think of, is if your TV isnt great at doing HDR and/or you never use HDR. Or the games you've been using to test with dont even use the OS calibration. For everyone else, its worth taking the couple of moments to set correctly.

What should we do then if this is the case? I got a budget Hisense U7K and according to Rtings.com, it has "Peak 10% Window of 796 cd/m²" in HDR game mode. Based on the click chart I should be at around 14 clicks when the logo is barely visible/disappears. But by eye, the logo doesn't become barely visible until after roughly 25 ish clicks (with contrast enhancers/everything turned off). Which method should I use?

So just for your understanding of what's going on there. The TV is capable of 800nit, but is set to tone map 4k nit content. I don't know all the in and outs of your TV. But for Sony there is far more to it as the tone mapping can adjust based on what nit content its fed. But unless we know differently, there's no harm in assuming it would prefer to receive 4k nit content all the time and tone map it. So if that's the case, I'd agree with keefged4 .

 

[Kuranghi]

This is mostly nonsense. The only exceptions I can think of, is if your TV isnt great at doing HDR and/or you never use HDR. Or the games you've been using to test with dont even use the OS calibration. For everyone else, its worth taking the couple of moments to set correctly.


So just for your understanding of what's going on there. The TV is capable of 800nit, but is set to tone map 4k nit content. I don't know all the in and outs of your TV. But for Sony there is far more to it as the tone mapping can adjust based on what nit content its fed. But unless we know differently, there's no harm in assuming it would prefer to receive 4k nit content all the time and tone map it. So if that's the case, I'd agree with keefged4 .

I work closely with Hisense and afaik it doesn't have DTM when the named setting is turned off, but obviously it indicates it does when calibration screen is wanting 1000s of nits to clip the pattern.

Little Mac

I would maybe try just setting it to whatever part of the slider HDRGamer blog says is closest to 850 nits (or even 950, since the U7K is brighter on a 25% window than a 10%) and see how it looks in-game.

Then try again with it set to whenever it clips the pattern and see if all the highlights are blown out compared to the 850-950 nits setting.

 

[cash_longfellow]

I read the thread title half buzzed and got here by accident. I apologize, and I’ll see myself out

 

[rofif]

I switched to maining dtm after 2 years. Just used the tv now.
Hgig is very often the same as dtm off. It’s just dull.

And almost no games use ps5 calibration

 

[Kuranghi]

Okay enough about TVs, lets talk about massive jiggling tits. Move the thread to the horniest section of the website please mods!

If said horny place doesn't exist yet then please create a subforum and name is Kuranghi's Clamhouse.

 

[S0ULZB0URNE]

I was making sure the Adjust HDR screen on my PS5 was set up correctly for Gran Turismo 7 (I was pissing around with it the other day) and I want to know how many clicks up from 0 (ie far left) you can go before the "sun" disappears/is clipped on the 1st and 2nd page.

You need to make sure Dynamic Tonemapping (So that includes any dynamic contrast/contrast "enhancer" settings that are on) and HGIG is off before you do this or it won't be an accurate result. The first is effectively the TVs HDR 100% window (ie full white screen) and the 2nd is the TVs HDR 10% window, for the 2nd screen you'll probably find the value where it clips is slightly lower than what they measured for the 10% window of your specific model on www.rtings.com because there are other elements on screen that aren't pure black which will take away some of the TVs "juice" for the 10% window box.

You should press right on the dpad until the point when the sun disappears because if you leave it barely visible then most of the time you'll be leaving HDR juice on the table, the exception being if it truly is barely visible like you have to kind of squint to see its still there, but that won't happen in most cases so just go one more click until it disappears.

Get Your Nits Out For The Lads

I have the lovely & beautiful Sony 65" ZD9/Z9D, here are my results:

* On the 1st page I can do 12 clicks, its barely barely visible at 11 but I got too excited and went to 12 because I was afraid I'd leave juice on the table.
* On the 2nd page I can do 18 clicks, its quite visible at 17 so 18 is needed to avoid throwing away any juice, even if that will result in a tiny amount of clipping in bright highlights.

You can use this to check what nit value the number of clicks corresponds to see if it roughly matches your TV's HDR 100% and HDR 10% window:

PS5 System HDR Settings

PS5 System HDR Peak Brightness Settings analysis

www.hdrgamer.com

If it doesn't line up roughly with rtings measured values then you probably have some dynamic contrast/tonemapping setting on or your TV does dynamic tonemapping all the time and you can't turn it off, making the Adjust HDR screen semi-useless.

Bearing in mind I said the 10% window value will probably be slightly less than the rtings.com's measured value because of the other lit pixels on the screen taking away some juice. From this you can see my 100% window value is ~630 nits and my 10% window value is ~1500 nits, which lines up well with rtings values, losing that bit of brightness on the 10% window for the reason stated previously + the fact that Sony's image presentation philosophy is to clip highlights a tiny bit to increase the APL (Average Picture Level, ie how bright the overall image is).

So guys/guyettes... show me those high beams:




I really want to know what TVs can go higher than 12 on the 1st page and 18 on the 2nd, without clipping. I think some older super high end LCD sets, like the 2018 Samsung Q9FN, the 2019 Samsung Q90R or the Vizio P Series Quantum X 2020, and the 2021 Samsung QN90/94/95A Neo QLED might be able to go past 18 on the 2nd screen, even if the 10% window is lower than my ZD9 on some of those according to rtings, because Samsung prioritise highlight detail over APL and the Vizio was just nuts in terms of brightness output. Not sure about the 1st screen, I have a feeling that ZD9 will be hard to beat unless you have the Vizio P Series Quantum X 2020/2021 or something silly like Samsung's "The Terrace".

p.s - Sorry Xbros, I don't have an Xbox so I don't know what values they assign to each step on the HDR calibration screen and even if I did we couldn't really compare the values since the different imagery on each calibration screen will affect the results slightly.

I hit around 16 clicks with my 75Z9D

 

[Kuranghi]

I hit around 16 clicks with my 75Z9D

Thats funny its different for my 65", you'd think more LEDs behind the bright element would make it brighter, but theres other factors evidently. Maybe our settings are different also, mines calibrated by Teoh remember, maybe he put some special TV juice in it while I wasn't looking and juiced it up.

 

[S0ULZB0URNE]

Thats funny its different for my 65", you'd think more LEDs behind the bright element would make it brighter, but theres other factors evidently. Maybe our settings are different also, mines calibrated by Teoh remember, maybe he put some special TV juice in it while I wasn't looking and juiced it up.

Higher clicks=higher nits

 

[S0ULZB0URNE]

Oh and how many hours do you have with yours?
Mine is over 26000...

 

[Andrew Evenstar]

whatever mod labeled this as cringe deserves a raise and promotion to SUPER MOD.

 

[buenoblue]

I got a Samsung S95b. First screen sun doesn't disappear till 30 clicks, seconds screen at 16. It looks like shit like that . I just go 16,16,0 but yeah I always have a nagging feeling something ain't right.

I got the tv (65inch) for £800 open box about 9 months ago so can't really complain. It does put out some lovely images though. And over the years I've realized that "proper" settings are always a little to dull for me. I want that wow factor

One thing I do miss from LCD TV's is the full screen brightness. My old ks8000 had like 1000 nit full screen brightness lol, whereas my OLED has 200 nit full screen brightness. And that's with brightness set to max which I never do anyway.

I have my eye on of the newer Hisense mini LEDs that reach 10000 nits with 20000 dimming zones lol.

Like a wise man once said, there is no such thing as a perfect tv.

 

[Big Baller]

HDR is just terrible

 

[Kuranghi]

whatever mod labeled this as cringe deserves a raise and promotion to SUPER MOD.

Then you can sign me up for the SUPER MOD team!

 

[King Dazzar]

I work closely with Hisense and afaik it doesn't have DTM when the named setting is turned off, but obviously it indicates it does when calibration screen is wanting 1000s of nits to clip the pattern.

Little Mac

I would maybe try just setting it to whatever part of the slider HDRGamer blog says is closest to 850 nits (or even 950, since the U7K is brighter on a 25% window than a 10%) and see how it looks in-game.

Then try again with it set to whenever it clips the pattern and see if all the highlights are blown out compared to the 850-950 nits setting.

Yeah, its not quite the same as dynamic tone mapping. Its just by the sounds of it, it's set to always tone map to 4k nits, which is static. Usually in which case, if its fed less than 4k nit, it potentially wont look quite as good, at least thats been my experience over the years with fixed tone mapping settings for non-Sony TV's. This is different to LG's DTM, which is effectively just a luminance booster, Sony's on the fly dynamic adjustment which works as though static. And then Samsungs which used to boost the EOTF artificially regardless. Anyway I could talk for hours on it. But, best I dont - you'll all start having rigor mortis set in... based on what's been shared here, TL;DR I'd set it to 25/25/0 so at least you know its always making full use of the tone mapping set up. And set to 4k nit where possible on non OS HDR games too.

 

[RJMacready73]

Ffs... Thought you said tits

 

[Kuranghi]

Ffs... Thought you said tits

Stay. TVs are better than tits.

I'm a liar

 

[Kuranghi]

Or better yet, put a massive pair of tits on your TV, breast of both worlds