Tech Support GAF Thread: No Case Too Big, No Case Too Small

Okay, so I got a 4K monitor with G-Sync that I'm digging, but there's only one problem: It's got one displayport. That's it! No audio, no HDMI, just one displayport. So you can hook up one PC to it and that is it. It's the Acer XB280HK.

I am looking for something that can take a few inputs (let's say three HDMI devices, and maybe one displayport) and provide switching between inputs, all to the displayport out -- and ideally a headphone jack/stereo outs/optical outs as well -- with G-Sync still intact.

Is there any hope?
 
Hey, think my graphics card might have died but want to make sure. GTX Radeon HD 6870.

Was playing Ori on my PC yesterday and right as I was about to quit, the screen just went black. Couldn't do anything, had to just power it down. Now when I try to boot up the PC, it displays the windows logo momentarily (once with some graphical glitches; vertical blue lines), and then goes black. Sometimes the TV recognizes that it's still getting an input, sometimes not. I can unplug the graphics card and go through the integrated graphics, and that works fine. Anything I should check before just assuming it's dead?
 
uncelestial said:
Okay, so I got a 4K monitor with G-Sync that I'm digging, but there's only one problem: It's got one displayport. That's it! No audio, no HDMI, just one displayport. So you can hook up one PC to it and that is it. It's the Acer XB280HK.

I am looking for something that can take a few inputs (let's say three HDMI devices, and maybe one displayport) and provide switching between inputs, all to the displayport out -- and ideally a headphone jack/stereo outs/optical outs as well -- with G-Sync still intact.

Is there any hope?
Click to expand...
Only DP supports G-sync. Converting HDMI to DP doesn't change this due to HDMI's lower bandwidth.
 
Can someone recommend a good wireless router setup? Our wifi reception downstairs is total shit. Whether it's a booster or a router, I'd love to make the reception stronger, as that's where our HD consoles live. Thanks in advance.
 
Ok I don't know why this problem started but it did a few days ago.

Opening programs or other browsers has been very slow, it takes forever for it to start up. Looking up the processes in task manager it shows them so very slowly starting up. Now it's started with the tabs in browser too, taking a while to open a webpage.

I ran malware and MSE and it found nothing. So I haven't any idea what's going on and why this slowdown persists. I had it turned off for a good while and turned it back on but yeah still acts the same.


NM, I think HDD is dying
 
Ether_Snake said:
So one of my old HDD is corrupted. I have two SSDs, and one of them has windows installed on it. If I disconnect my HDD, my PC won't start anymore, it says "reboot and select proper boot drive", but the D isn't the boot drive so what gives? If I go in the Bios I see the boot order is set to my two SSDs.

How do I get rid of my HDD without being stuck on that "select proper boot drive" message?

In disc management it says it is the Primary partition, is that why? Boot stuff is on the C which is the SSD, but that one is also listed as Primary partition, so is my F.
Click to expand...

This happens because at one point when you installed Windows on your SSD, you also had your HDD installed in the PC. Even though you chose to install the Windows install on the SSD, if Windows detects other hard drives, it may install certain Windows boot files to those other hard drives. I don't know why it does this tbh, but it does.

The solution to fix this is to next time install/reinstall Windows to the SSD and have no other hard drives plugged in to the machine. You can plug those other hard drives in after you successfully install Windows to your main SSD.
 
Need network support. Possibly have issues with my switch and router so I’m getting horribly confused.

Yesterday my Philips Hue and xbox lost network connection. Both are wired through a Netgear GS108 switch to my router and had been fine until then. I tried a few things - turning the switch on/off; changing the ports the cables were in; changing the cables; changing the port on the router that the cable from the switch was in. Nothing. But when connecting my laptop directly to the cable from the router to the switch, I was getting a signal so the router connection seemed fine. So I thought maybe my switch was dead - I guess that happens. But this morning it was working - for about 30 minutes and now isn’t again.

In parallel to this, I’ve been having issues with my router. It’s an ASUS RT-AC66U. For a while now we’ve had issues where you’d lose internet connection, but it seems limited to wireless devices - phones and iPads etc will still show a wifi connection to the router (and can get to the router admin page for example), but can’t get internet. Wired devices seem fine. A reboot of the router usually fixes it, but it happens on and off a few times a week recently.

Is it possible these are just coincidences? Should I get a new switch or is it possible the router is causing both issues? I don’t mind replacing the switch if necessary - its a few years old now and not that expensive. But the ASUS I only bought 1-2 years ago and it was highly recommended for stability and performance.


If I do need a new router, what is recommended? My consoles and PC are wired so wireless is limited to phones/tablets. So I don’t think I need something with crazy wifi speed, but good range would be good as I’m about to get some arlo wifi cameras
 
Network support for a non-tech guy.

Just got in my Steam Link from the summer sale. Want to play it over the wireless network, but having problems. There may be no way to fix it, but I'd appreciate any feedback.

So my set up is TV, Link, and router in the living room. PC running Steam is in the next room, maybe 20-30 feet away. Not completely cut-off by a wall, but there is a corner in between the two.

I've got a 50 mbps Internet connection with a dual-band AC router. My PC is older, and the network card only supports 2.4. So on Prime Day I bought a cheap USB wireless adapter with an antennae so it could connect to 5.0. So the PC is now on the 5.0. network.

So I get the Steam Link and get it hooked up to the TV. Since it's so close to the router, I have it wired up. I go to connect to my PC, and it's horrible. Basically frozen, anywhere from 80-100% frame loss. I switch the PC over to the 2.4 network, and as you might expect it's even worse. This is on a full strength connection, 4 bars.

Here's the rub: I also have a Windows tablet (Winbook TW801), and I can stream to it ok. Not perfectly, but I can at least get a game running. I remember it used to be a lot better in our old house, might be too much congestion here to run it well. So PC to tablet is pretty good, not great. I can also stream from the tablet to the Link. It's ok. The tablet hardware isn't great, so there are encoding issues.

So PC -> tablet is ok, tablet -> Link is ok. Not sure why I can't get the PC to stream decently to the Link. I suspect the new wireless adapter is part of it. When I have the wireless adapter in the PC and connected to the 5.0 network, I'm averaging 20-25 mbps (on a 50 mbps connection). When I check my phone while sitting at the PC, I'm averaging 45+.

Did I get get a bum wireless adapter? Or is something like powerline adapters my only hope?
 
Was playing PUBG when suddenly my PC turned off. I opened it up and found that the graphics card light is on(so the PSU is providing power somehow) but the PC won't start. The PSU fans don't spin or anything. How is that even possible?

I tried shorting the power on pins and nothing happened.
I disconnected the PSU, plugged it into the mains and performed the paperclip test and the fan still didn't spin. Safe to say the PSU is DOA? I've ordered a new PSU to see if that fixes the problem. Hopefully it does.
 
Is there a DIY fix for a motherboard that failed a BIOS update?

After flashing the BIOS in the UEFI, it said complete, then I click OK to restart the PC. Problem is, it got stuck on a black screen (Monitor went to sleep). Fans are spinning. No beeps. It was like that for a long time. Then I pressed and held the power button until the PC turned off.

Now, my PC won't boot anymore. The screen will say "no signal" then monitor will go to sleep, but the power light is still on and fans are still spinning. Another weird thing, even when PC is off, my keyboard still lights up, and ethernet also lights up flashing. As soon as I plug the power to the wall even without turning the PC on, keyboard and ethernet lights up. Mouse doesn't.

Motherboard is ASRock H270 Performance.
 
Is there a quick way to restart a youtube video on an Nvidia Shield or Android TV? For really long videos, I have to press the rewind button for a long time in order to get to the beginning of the video Looks like you can press 0 if you have keyboard attached to restart the video but the Shield remote doesn't have a lot of buttons.
 
boybrushdRED said:
Is there a DIY fix for a motherboard that failed a BIOS update?

After flashing the BIOS in the UEFI, it said complete, then I click OK to restart the PC. Problem is, it got stuck on a black screen (Monitor went to sleep). Fans are spinning. No beeps. It was like that for a long time. Then I pressed and held the power button until the PC turned off.

Now, my PC won't boot anymore. The screen will say "no signal" then monitor will go to sleep, but the power light is still on and fans are still spinning. Another weird thing, even when PC is off, my keyboard still lights up, and ethernet also lights up flashing. As soon as I plug the power to the wall even without turning the PC on, keyboard and ethernet lights up. Mouse doesn't.

Motherboard is ASRock H270 Performance.
Click to expand...

Check with the manufacturer and see how to do a BIOS reset. Usually entails removing the CMOS battery or booting with a jumper moved to a specific spot, it should restore.
 
Okay, I'm about to lose my mind with this one.

I'm trying to delete a steam folder full of mods. I'm the administrator of the computer. I'm logged in and verified. I can do anything I want...

except delete this folder. I've taken ownership over it. I've turned off UAC. I can even delete individual files WITHIN this folder, but not the entire folder itself. The error I get is:

"you require permission from [me] to make changes to this folder"

I really don't wanna dig through 20 gigs of stuff to clear this out. Am I missing something?

EDIT: So, I found a work around to get rid of all the files within the folders, however now I'm stuck dealing with the actual folders themselves. It's only 2MBs worth of space, so it's not a big deal in the grand scheme, but I'm just pissed I cannot get rid of everything without deleting an empty folder. It's such a pain.
 
My router is in my bedroom but I need better wifi signal in other parts of my apartment.
Can't stretch cables throughout it. Is there way to strengthen it without losing quality because I need it for streaming in living room?
 
demented said:
My router is in my bedroom but I need better wifi signal in other parts of my apartment.
Can't stretch cables throughout it. Is there way to strengthen it without losing quality because I need it for streaming in living room?
Click to expand...

You can use a wifi extender, but you are bound to lose some speed. It may not be bad enough to effect your streaming though.
 
demented said:
My router is in my bedroom but I need better wifi signal in other parts of my apartment.
Can't stretch cables throughout it. Is there way to strengthen it without losing quality because I need it for streaming in living room?
Click to expand...

Have you considered Powerline adapters?
 
Eklesp said:
You can use a wifi extender, but you are bound to lose some speed. It may not be bad enough to effect your streaming though.
Click to expand...
Not ok with speed loss :/
rothgar said:
Have you considered Powerline adapters?
Click to expand...

Thought about it, do they have issues with latency and quality isnt that great? As I said Ill be mostly streaming on tv (netflix etc) and need good net.

Another option I thought of, from the box outside where fiber cables are, they could take one to living room but what to connect it to, one right now goes inside router so idk if its possible
 
I can dig out more details of my setup if required, but I thought I'd ask as it might be a simple solution: how the hell can I get 5.1 surround sound from my PC to my YAMAHA receiver?

I bought the PC second hand recently and the generic audio description was "Sound Card: ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)"

There's an optical socket on the back of the PC but *apparently* this only outputs 2.1. It's how the PC sound is currently connected to the receiver. All five speaker icons show up on the receiver display, but a 5.1 audio test reveals I'm only getting 2.1 with front/rear channels going to both sets of speakers.
There are two HDMI sockets on the back of the PC. One feeds my 4k TV. I've tried connecting the other to my receiver but nada.
My TV has an ARC HDMI but the receiver does not, but I think the TV (Hisense M3000) can only process 2.1 anyway.
The receiver is not a 4k passthrough so I can't connect the PC to the receiver, then the receiver to the TV and get 4k display.
The various options for the various Realtek sound drivers on the PC only seem to offer 2.1.

I know a lot of the info above is a little vague (I'm not near the PC right now) but I'm hoping it's a common problem with a simple toggle needed somewhere.
Google was no help whatsoever.

Halp, with thanks!
 
Veezy said:
Okay, I'm about to lose my mind with this one.

I'm trying to delete a steam folder full of mods. I'm the administrator of the computer. I'm logged in and verified. I can do anything I want...

except delete this folder. I've taken ownership over it. I've turned off UAC. I can even delete individual files WITHIN this folder, but not the entire folder itself. The error I get is:

"you require permission from [me] to make changes to this folder"

I really don't wanna dig through 20 gigs of stuff to clear this out. Am I missing something?

EDIT: So, I found a work around to get rid of all the files within the folders, however now I'm stuck dealing with the actual folders themselves. It's only 2MBs worth of space, so it's not a big deal in the grand scheme, but I'm just pissed I cannot get rid of everything without deleting an empty folder. It's such a pain.
Click to expand...

There was an OP recently who was unable to delete folders, but my suggestion worked. Give it a try.

If you're on Windows, look into Robocopy. It's a powerful utility built into the OS located in System32, so all you have to do is open an elevated command line to use it with admin privileges.

Essentially what you want to do is create an empty temporary directory, and mirror its contents to your target directory. The command would be something along the lines of
robocopy.exe c:\empty_directory c:\...\steam_mods * /MIR
Click to expand...

What it should do is delete everything in that folder, leaving only the root, so if any of the files within are locked down somehow which is preventing you from deleting it, this should do it.
 
demented said:
Not ok with speed loss :/


Thought about it, do they have issues with latency and quality isnt that great? As I said Ill be mostly streaming on tv (netflix etc) and need good net.
Click to expand...


I think the HomePlug AV2 standard has gotten pretty good, so I would give it a try as long as you're not stream more than a couple of 4K video streams.
 
I've a quick question about positive/negative case pressure. Will running a positive pressure case generally result in slightly warmer temps (2-4 degrees higher) than a negative setup?

I've been running a negative pressure case for about two years now and decided to finally fix that and move some fans around to achieve positive pressure. But now after spending about an hour trying different positive pressure configurations, my temps are all idling about 2-4 degrees higher than they were when I was running a negative setup. Is this normal?
 
Dominican Power said:
Is there any good free anti virus software?
Click to expand...

Been using AVG Free for years, no issues.

Danny 117 said:
Was playing PUBG when suddenly my PC turned off. I opened it up and found that the graphics card light is on(so the PSU is providing power somehow) but the PC won't start. The PSU fans don't spin or anything. How is that even possible?

I tried shorting the power on pins and nothing happened.
I disconnected the PSU, plugged it into the mains and performed the paperclip test and the fan still didn't spin. Safe to say the PSU is DOA? I've ordered a new PSU to see if that fixes the problem. Hopefully it does.
Click to expand...

Well you have three voltage rails on a standard PSU; maybe just one is dead.

Either way sounds like it needs to be replaced. I assume your PSU fan runs at all times? Just mention it because newer ones have the "quiet" feature where fan only runs when needed. They have a button to test the fan for scenarios like this where you're trying to test whether there's any power.

Samaritan said:
I've a quick question about positive/negative case pressure. Will running a positive pressure case generally result in slightly warmer temps (2-4 degrees higher) than a negative setup?

I've been running a negative pressure case for about two years now and decided to finally fix that and move some fans around to achieve positive pressure. But now after spending about an hour trying different positive pressure configurations, my temps are all idling about 2-4 degrees higher than they were when I was running a negative setup. Is this normal?
Click to expand...

Saw you posted this in the Need a PC thread too. I honestly don't know but a great resource for questions like this is overclock.net, as they have dedicated forums for cases and cooling. I'd check there.

http://www.overclock.net/f/246/air-cooling
http://www.overclock.net/f/161/computer-cases
 
Any drawbacks to chain8ng Ethernet switches? I have a 5 port in the spare room that is full, and I need to add something to it. Can I just get another 5 port and plug it into the current one, or should I switch to an 8 port? The current 5 port goes straight to my router
 
Hello there fellow GAF techheads :).

I have just recently bought a new laptop, a Dell Inspiron 'Gaming' 7650. I chose the top spec version of the laptop you can buy from the Dell UK website, meaning it comes with:

- Intel Core i7 CPU
- 16GB of RAM
- Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050Ti
- 4GB of video RAM

I have been working on some Excel projects with it, works fine. But yesterday I installed my first games on the thing, and I am finding some issues with them you guys might help me with.

First is low framerates on DOOM 2016. I am getting constant 20 fps everywhere, even when changing resolutions to 720p. I am using the GeForce Experience app that came with the laptop to get the latest Nvidia drivers, which are installed already.

I am using the Vulkan settings and following the 'optimal' config that GeForce Experience is giving me.

When I saw this video of seemingly the same machine as mine I couldn't help wondering what am I doing wrong, as the guy in the video seems to be hitting 60fps on very high settings (he might be overclocking the thing I guess, temperatures seem high on that vid).

Is it possible to have 60 fps on Doom with my laptop? I am asking for help as I did a search on Google and I couldn't find any truely specific help that wasn't "update the drivers man".

There's a second issue. Headphones only seem to work when I turn on the laptop with them plugged in already. If I plug them out, I will need to reset Windows and plug them back in for them to be detected. Once I plug them out that's it, the computer will only use the speakers no matter what. Annoying.

Thank you people for the help.

Best Regards.
 
The game might be running off the integrated graphics. There should be a way to force the game to run on the 1050ti in display settings.
 
StoneFox said:
The game might be running off the integrated graphics. There should be a way to force the game to run on the 1050ti in display settings.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply :).

There is an option to show some performance stats in the game, like fps and so, and it shows that the game is running using the 1050, but the performance I'm getting resembles more the one you would get from the intel integrated GPU... I will look into that tomorrow.

I got Diablo 3 installed as well (well, it is an old game), and there doesn't seem to be any performance issues with it with everything maxxed out. Again, old game.
 
Hey all,

I recently installed Windows 10 on a Mac via HDD partition.
Everything seems to be working fine, but I've encountered a problem where when ever I right click and try to create a new anything (document, folder, etc) the cursor show a loading symbol and then I'm kicked back to the main screen. I'm assuming this is the main explorer window (this could be wrong). Either way i'm kicked back to my desktop and nothing appears.

This happens within folders or right from the desktop. Any ideas?

Oh! This may have started when I installed sticky notes to the computer from the app store



***Findings***

This seemed to have been a problem in the early days of win10 as there is a few reports out there. Problem is one solution suggests going into and changing a line in the registry editor. Thing is what they suggest replacing the information with is the same as what's already in my registry.

I can create a new folder using command prompt but this is really a hassle to do every time.

If I am in a folder and click the Home tab, the option to create a folder is there. Seems like it's only the right click method that has this hang up.
 
Does anybody have experience with using subnative resolutions on a 4k monitor / TV?

I got the idea from here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rGNfveTD4Q&t=95s

Followed their instructions and they simply did not work for me. I'm running a 980ti and using a Sony X900E.

My backup plan was to use Nvidia control panel to manually add some custom rez. The first one they mentioned was not possible but after some wrangling I got 3200 x 1800 to show up. But there's a problem - it does not fill my entire TV. It seems to be using a 1:1 pixel mode, which is handy as an option, but in this case I'd prefer it to scale.

The second problem is it took like 30 restarts and fidding with random settings to get it to show up in games, not just as a desktop resolution. I have NO IDEA what eventually got it to show up but it finally did this morning.

Third problem is that for seemingly no reason, it started messing up my colours and refresh rate settings. The 4k resolution just spontaneously dropped to 30hz and the colours became fucked up @12bit depth for some reason. I didn't do anything to cause this. I did eventually fix it by restarting / restarting graphics drivers, but....

Anyway, I'll be satisfied if I can just get the subnative res to show up properly in game and fill the whole screen.

Things I've tried:

  • Giving scaling back to the display from the GPU. This was an Nvidia control panel setting.
  • Setting Nvid control panel to fill screen instead of being on the "aspect ratio" setting.
  • Restarting, several times
  • Resolutions lower than 1800p. If they are normal resolutions, the TV correctly interprets it as a 4k signal

Additional info: The TV seems to "see" the 1800p signal as 1800p, whereas any other resolution I pick (non custom) is a 4k signal coming from the video card.
 
So huh... I have a weird issue.

I've been using a Wallpaper slideshow forever in Windows 10. Normally I always put all the images in the "Pictures" folder (what used to be My Documents I guess?) and then point windows to it.


Now tonight I decided to add more images to my slideshow... I open the "Picture" folder and it's empty...

I check the Desktop settings and it says that it's using the "DesktopBackground" album. If I click on Browse it opens the empty "Pictures" folder.

Where the fuck are my wallpapers?
 
I find this a weird one, but I have an awkward girlfriend.

Does anyone have any recommendations of using a tablet, probably around a 7" screen, as a phone?
 
Trying to connect my Galaxy S7 to PC, to backup some photos. Phone detects PC fine, so I set to MTP mode.

Suddenly it's keeps connecting and disconnecting hundreds of times for about 3 minutes straight.

All of a sudden a window pops up tell me this device cannot be connected and to use Android manager, really do not what is wrong as i gave done this before many times with no issues. I actually had it connected earlier in the same session using this exact setup.
 
Can anyone recommend a good wi-fi router/cable modem combo, that is compatible with Comcast?

Consolidating to one device, rather than 2 would make things simpler around my computer. I'd also like it to support 5ghz. I think most of my devices are wireless-n, but I suppose getting a router that supports wireless-ac is probably the best thing.
 
I was having trouble with a game that wasn't saving progress properly.

Turns out, the save folder was somehow tagged as read-only. Then I looked up a directory and my whole steam apps folder was read-only. Then saw that my whole Apps folder was read-only. Actually, every folder on my entire C: drive was flagged read-only. Files in the root C: directory aren't, though.

Any idea how this might have happened?

I think the only thing I've installed recently was Gigantic, through Steam+Arc


edit: Actually looks like it's on all drives, not just C.

Also I can't clear the read-only flags. I uncheck it, hit Okay, and then check it again and it's back immediately

Windows 10 Home 64


edit2: Maybe this is just a weird "normal" behavior in Windows 10. I see the same thing on my office PC, and now I'm noticing that it's not a check mark on the box, but a square
 
Hi GAF,

So my computer started playing up at the weekend and I'm struggling to find a solution to my problem.

My pc won't wont boot and hangs with a blank screen no beep no attempt at booting. I have a asRock mobo with Drdebug and it gets through all its diagnostics but hangs at B4 hotplug.

A quick google says unplug all USB devices and reboot, still the same. I've stripped the pc down, still the same.

I've reseated the CPU, tried plugging in USB devices that draw power into every USB port but nothing.

Specs:

i7 4770K (haswell)
Astock z87 oc formula
16GB avenex 1600mhz (2x8GB)
Sapphire HD 7950
500W PSU
Corsair H80i AIO

The only items I think could try to replace next are the mobo or PSU but don't have a donor PC to test other parts. So blindly buying replacement parts is not a path I willing to go down.

I'm leaning to a faulty mobo but not 100% sure.
 
This isn't really going to help me, but I just want to say FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU to Windows 10/nVidia.

Some driver nvstore.sys crashed my system.

Infinite blue screen crash on rebooting.

Okay. Time to install Windows and "keep old files"! Proceed to do a refresh.

Windows can't do it. Throws some error.

Proceed to do an install and keep old files . . .

Windows only saves Microsoft files in Windows.old.

Yup. Looked at AppData, only a Microsoft folder was in there. Looked at Program Files [x86] and also only MS apps were in there.

What does that mean?

Steam folder? Gone.
All my old apps? Gone.
AppData? Completely gone.
Downloads folder? Gone.

My entire user directory? Only 64MB. 😱

This is the first time that Windows has completely removed all non-MS folders when doing an upgrade/re-install.

WTF.

Tried to use Recova. First I tried to use %appdata%, but nothing was there. It found some files in the Windows.old\users\my-name\AppData, but a 95% of them were removed after being moved to the Windows.old directory.

I don't know what kind of stunt MS is pulling, but I lost a lot of file settings that I could have easy reverted.
 
Mascot said:
I can dig out more details of my setup if required, but I thought I'd ask as it might be a simple solution: how the hell can I get 5.1 surround sound from my PC to my YAMAHA receiver?

I bought the PC second hand recently and the generic audio description was "Sound Card: ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)"

There's an optical socket on the back of the PC but *apparently* this only outputs 2.1. It's how the PC sound is currently connected to the receiver. All five speaker icons show up on the receiver display, but a 5.1 audio test reveals I'm only getting 2.1 with front/rear channels going to both sets of speakers.
There are two HDMI sockets on the back of the PC. One feeds my 4k TV. I've tried connecting the other to my receiver but nada.
My TV has an ARC HDMI but the receiver does not, but I think the TV (Hisense M3000) can only process 2.1 anyway.
The receiver is not a 4k passthrough so I can't connect the PC to the receiver, then the receiver to the TV and get 4k display.
The various options for the various Realtek sound drivers on the PC only seem to offer 2.1.

I know a lot of the info above is a little vague (I'm not near the PC right now) but I'm hoping it's a common problem with a simple toggle needed somewhere.
Google was no help whatsoever.

Halp, with thanks!
Click to expand...

This is still driving me fucking nuts, folks. Why can't I get 5.1 sent to my receiver?
I've added a Rift since my original message which is connected to the GPU HDMI. The 4k TV is now connected directly to one of the DP sockets on the GPU (bypassing the receiver completely) with an HDMI/DP active adapter. Both work fine.

I've got a couple of DP sockets on the GPU spare, so would using another HDMI/DP adapter to connect the PC (DP) to the receiver (HDMI) now give me the 5.1 audio I crave?

Audio is currently sent from the PC to the receiver via optical cable from the mobo, but FOR SOME GODDAMN REASON this is only sending 2.1.

There HAS to be a simple solution, surely?

Some system specs which might be of use:

CPU - Intel® Core™i5 Quad Core Processor i5-6600K (3.5GHz) 6MB Cache

Motherboard - ASUS® Z170I PRO GAMING: Mini-ITX, LG1151, USB 3.1, SATA 6GBs

Memory (RAM) - 16GB HyperX FURY DDR4 2133MHz (2 x 8GB)

Graphics Card - 6GB NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX 980 Ti - DVI, HDMI, 3x DP - GeForce GTX VR Ready!

Sound Card - ONBOARD 6 CHANNEL (5.1) HIGH DEF AUDIO (AS STANDARD)

USB Options - MIN. 2 x USB 3.0 & 4 x USB 2.0 PORTS @ BACK PANEL + MIN. 2 FRONT PORTS

Operating System - Genuine Windows 10 Home 64 Bit

There's eternal life in a beer-filled jacuzzi at the Playboy mansion* for whoever solves this.

*Terms and conditions apply. Subject to availability.
 
Issue: Certain websites are loading very slow on Chrome desktop but will load fine on Chrome mobile on the same network at the same time.

Any ideas? Tried clearing cache with no results.

Edit: Tried switching to OpenDNS but still getting the same issue.
 
I have carpel tunnel and my hands have really been bothering me when working on the computer so I Just got a Microsoft Surface Ergonomic Keyboard but cannot pair it will my desktop.

This one https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/d/surface-ergonomic-keyboard/90PNC9LJWPX9

My desktop doesn't have bluetooth so I bought an Insignia 4.0 bluetooth usb and plugged that into my desktop. The Best Buy associate told me that would work.

I am on Windows 10 as I know that and USB 4.0 are both required. As the manual says I hit the Bluetooth button on the back of the keyboard for 3 seconds. I then go into Add a Bluetooth and Other Devices - > Add Device -> I see it listed as Ergonomic Keyboard which I click and it gives me a pin to enter but it never connects. Even if I don't try typing the pin it fails connecting. The front of the keyboard has a blinking white light but never goes solid.

Any help would be appreciated the keyboard feels great and I would love to be able to use it.
 
Whats the best video and audio converter, that doesnt looks like a commando central and wants me to juggle with 15 codecs and other stuff? I need it to be able to convert MP4s to MP3.
 
So the Toshiba 24" Smart TV I've had since 2011 has started to develop these flickering horizontal lines creeping about the screen. They occur from every source and even over the menus. The TV is still reasonably watchable, and it's only my bedroom TV so it's not a high priority, but it is still annoying. It gets better and worse throughout the day, sometimes almost disappearing totally. Is the TV on death's door or is there something I can do to salvage it?

Edit: It was almost totally clear, but when I opened a menu, the flickering came back temporarily. It seems to also be a bit worse when using my XB1 over HDMI.
 
My library is looking to upgrade their server. I'd like to offer some advice, but I'm not entirely sure where to start. They seem over their heads with this and I feel like I could help. What sort of questions should I ask them or where should I start researching this
in before "the library"
?

All I know is they're leaning toward a physical server rather than cloud, as evidently a cloud server is more expensive. It hosts their internal database and presumably the website as well, or at least the part where you login and manage your account.
 
j6Q2eoP.jpg

81M5y9l.jpg
Click to expand...

The first image is basically what the TV looks like immediately upon turning it on. The second is after a couple minutes. If I keep it on for a while, the lines become almost unnoticeable. Is there any way of salvaging the thing, or is this my best bet?
 
kuYuri said:
This happens because at one point when you installed Windows on your SSD, you also had your HDD installed in the PC. Even though you chose to install the Windows install on the SSD, if Windows detects other hard drives, it may install certain Windows boot files to those other hard drives. I don't know why it does this tbh, but it does.

The solution to fix this is to next time install/reinstall Windows to the SSD and have no other hard drives plugged in to the machine. You can plug those other hard drives in after you successfully install Windows to your main SSD.
Click to expand...

Damn that sucks, but thanks for the help. I'll have to take the time to do this soon I guess.
 
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