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[Dragon]

Components
Graphics: MSI Geforce 460GTX 1024 MB DDR5 PCI-Express 2.0 Graphics Card Hawk
Hard Drive: OCZ Technology 60 GB Vertex 2 Series SATA II 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive (SSD) OCZSSD22VTXE60G
Case: Antec Mini P180 Case
Power Supply: Corsair CMPSU-750HX 750-Watt HX Professional Series 80 Plus Certified Power Supply compatible with Core i7 and Core i5
Processor: Intel Core i5 750 Processor 2.66 GHz 8 MB LGA1156 CPU I5-750BOX
Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9S-4GBRL
Disc Drive: LITE-ON Black 4X Blu-ray Reader SATA Model iHOS104-06 - OEM
Motherboard: Gigabyte Intel Core i7/ Core i5/ Core i3/ LGA 1156/ Intel H57/ 4DDR3-2200+/ATI CrossFireX/ HDMI/ USB3.0/ Raid Micro ATX Motherboard GA-H57M-USB3

So this setup won't boot and I have no idea why.

Things I have tried: clearing CMOS, taking out battery for thirty minutes, disconnecting everything but memory, cpu, and vga cord to on board graphics.

I have emailed Gigabyte and they say the memory I have is compatible with the board. But I get no system beeps and no video when I boot up. Do I just have to bite the bullet, and put another stick of memory in there and see if that's the problem and if not send the motherboard back?

 

[Wads]

1) Make sure everything is grounded. Take it apart and put it back together if necessary
2) Take it down to the core necessities and see if you can pinpoint what's causing it.

It's probably simply not grounded properly.

edit, no post (beep) could mean a bad board though or you need to flash bios.

 

[Dragon]

1) Make sure everything is grounded. Take it apart and put it back together if necessary
2) Take it down to the core necessities and see if you can pinpoint what's causing it.

It's probably simply not grounded properly.

edit, no post (beep) could mean a bad board though or you need to flash bios.

I took the motherboard out of the case to make sure it wasn't an issue. I put it on top of a cardboard box, not sure if this is kosher :lol.

Like I said, I took it down to memory, cpu, and a cord to my dell display and still no beeps or nothing.

 

[GitarooMan]

Suggest if you haven't removing and reseating memory and making sure the CPU has enough thermal paste/cooling. I've had problems like this in the past when the memory check wasn't going through and when the CPU was immediately overheating and shutting down.

 

[Dragon]

Suggest if you haven't removing and reseating memory and making sure the CPU has enough thermal paste/cooling. I've had problems like this in the past when the memory check wasn't going through and when the CPU was immediately overheating and shutting down.

Hmm, all the Phase LEDs ARE lit, and according to the motherboard that means high load on the CPU. I did not add any thermal paste, as it looked like it was already on the heat sink, but that could be my bad. I'll take pics when I get home.

 

[Odious Tea]

Also, make sure you have your mobo plugged in to the power supply. I know it sounds dumb, but there were two spots that plugged into the power supply and I'd missed one of them.

 

[Wads]

I took the motherboard out of the case to make sure it wasn't an issue. I put it on top of a cardboard box, not sure if this is kosher :lol.

Like I said, I took it down to memory, cpu, and a cord to my dell display and still no beeps or nothing.

Ah, okay, well sounds like you've done most of what can be done. It could just be the board, bad bios or some such. Or, try different memory (mix/match parts if you have em) just to see if you can a working configuration and single out exactly what's going on.

 

[D4Danger]

Also, make sure you have your mobo plugged in to the power supply. I know it sounds dumb, but there were two spots that plugged into the power supply and I'd missed one of them.

I was going to say that. When I built my computer I missed one of the connections at the top of the board

 

[joelseph]

remove the board from the case, place it on a wooden surface on top of the static mat that came in it's box. Start by only connecting one stick of ram and the power supply. If you have older components that you know work start there.

 

[mf.luder]

I built a computer last Christmas and it wouldn't boot up. I sent it back to new egg for a new board but the same problem was happening. Turns out that the USB port on the back where my keyboard was plugged in was apparently ceasing to boot. Try switching ports for your peripherals.

 

[Drewsky]

Also, make sure you have your mobo plugged in to the power supply. I know it sounds dumb, but there were two spots that plugged into the power supply and I'd missed one of them.

I've done this before too. Definitely try that out.

 

[itxaka]

I was going to say that. When I built my computer I missed one of the connections at the top of the board

This! Last computer I build was like 8 years ago when mobos only had one big ass connector so when I got the new one 3 months ago I was flipping out that it didn't boot. Of course, I didn't connect the extra cable that I thougth was meant for other mobo type. :lol

 

[Reseil]

Also remember, most cases don't come with a speaker (my Antec 1200 didn't) to hook to the MB. If you don't have one lying around, you won't be able to hear any POST beeps if it's throwing any.

Not sure if you have a local PC store (Microcenter, Fry's, etc.), but an investment I made awhile back was a PCI test card. Something along the lines of this.

Works like a champ actually. I do a lot of side work for people and I needed a replacement for the old parallel port style of tester. As long as the MB can get power, it will identify where your issue lies.

 

[Dragon]

I built a computer last Christmas and it wouldn't boot up. I sent it back to new egg for a new board but the same problem was happening. Turns out that the USB port on the back where my keyboard was plugged in was apparently ceasing to boot. Try switching ports for your peripherals.

Hmm I'll try this. I'm thinking perhaps the fact I'm using a wireless keyboard might be an issue? It plugs into a USB port.

Also, make sure you have your mobo plugged in to the power supply. I know it sounds dumb, but there were two spots that plugged into the power supply and I'd missed one of them.

Yeah I plugged both spots in. It just sucks because I don't know if it's the mobo or the RAM and no one I know has a spare DDR3.

Also remember, most cases don't come with a speaker (my Antec 1200 didn't) to hook to the MB. If you don't have one lying around, you won't be able to hear any POST beeps if it's throwing any.

Not sure if you have a local PC store (Microcenter, Fry's, etc.), but an investment I made awhile back was a PCI test card. Something along the lines of this.

Works like a champ actually. I do a lot of side work for people and I needed a replacement for the old parallel port style of tester. As long as the MB can get power, it will identify where your issue lies.

Hmm, good point, I did not hook in the Logitech speakers I got, I should do that, I might try that at lunch.

 

[I <3 Memes]

Do you have a digital camera? If you could take a picture of the mobo as it is right now and post it that would help.

 

[CueTheMusic]

So do the fans spin up? If so, do they keep running, or quit right away?

Power lights on the mobo on?

Could be a bad power supply, do you have another one to test with? Disconnect everything (only have memory, cpu and video connected) and see if you can get it to post.

 

[joelseph]

remove the board from the case, place it on a wooden surface on top of the static mat that came in it's box. Start by only connecting one stick of ram and the power supply. If you have older components that you know work start there.

You need to start with this step to rule out grounding issues and or powersupply.

 

[Dragon]

Do you have a digital camera? If you could take a picture of the mobo as it is right now and post it that would help.

I'll go home at lunch and take a pic with my phone.

So do the fans spin up? If so, do they keep running, or quit right away?

If I put the RAM in the correct port according to the mobo manual (either 1 or 3), it keeps turning off and on again infinitely. But the fans do spin up.

Power lights on the mobo on?

Yes, all four of the Phase LEDs light up.

Could be a bad power supply, do you have another one to test with? Disconnect everything (only have memory, cpu and video connected) and see if you can get it to post.

I do not have another power supply to test with, I'm moving on from an iMac.

You need to start with this step to rule out grounding issues and or powersupply.

I'll try this when I go home for lunch in about half n hour.

 

[Reseil]

Hmm I'll try this. I'm thinking perhaps the fact I'm using a wireless keyboard might be an issue? It plugs into a USB port.



Yeah I plugged both spots in. It just sucks because I don't know if it's the mobo or the RAM and no one I know has a spare DDR3.



Hmm, good point, I did not hook in the Logitech speakers I got, I should do that, I might try that at lunch.

Wireless KB on an initial build won't work most likely due to drivers not being there, but not sure that would cause it not to boot (unless you have the BIOS set to halt on KB errors).

MB should support DDR2 as well if you have some laying around, just double check the manual or online.

Lastly, not talking about PC speakers that hook up in the back, but the actual MB speaker (the 4 pin job). PC speakers don't kick on until the OS fires up and the drivers load, so have to rely on the one directly on the MB itself.

Looks like this guy:

Some MB's have one built in, which would look like this:

Once you have that covered, any POST errors will result in beeps that you can cross check with the BIOS manufacturer to determine the point of failure. Your goal is a single beep, which means it passed the POST. If you get the single beep and it still won't boot, then your issue lies elsewhere.

 

[Eteric Rice]

Speaking of computers, since we're talking about builds...

A buddy of mine wants to get a PC. He mainly wants to use it for WoW, Starcraft II, and maybe a few other games.

What would be around the right specs for him to be able to do this without issue?

He wants it to last for like 5 years or so, though I've told him that, that's not how technology works.

Any ideas? Any idea of what the price will be around? He wants to spend like $700.

 

[I <3 Memes]

Speaking of computers, since we're talking about builds...

A buddy of mine wants to get a PC. He mainly wants to use it for WoW, Starcraft II, and maybe a few other games.

What would be around the right specs for him to be able to do this without issue?

He wants it to last for like 5 years or so, though I've told him that, that's not how technology works.

Any ideas? Any idea of what the price will be around? He wants to spend like $700.

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=383771

 

[Eteric Rice]

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=383771

Ah thanks!

 

[Revolutionary]

Huh, that's an odd one. It turns on, fans turn on and off, and no post...
Hmm. I don't know, I'd try different memory sticks for one. They may be compatible but it's possible one is DOA.

Also, this is a longshot, but a stupid friend recently built his first computer... Without putting standoffs between the mobo and the case -_-
God I hope you didn't do that.

 

[Willectro]

I would bet it is the RAM. I looked at reviews on newegg for that exact ram and 2 people claimed that their computer wouldn't boot with 1 stick.

I haven't built a computer in a few years (been playing consoles and WoW :lol) but it seems odd to me to have a 1 x 4gb of ram. I thought 2 x 2gb would be the way to go.

And on top of that, it looks like you have put together a pretty decent rig and that ram is definitely a bottleneck. Buy something better IMO. GL

 

[brandonh83]

My computer just started having booting issues. Before this, it started to constantly reboot. Now it says something like "insert proper boot device" or something like that. Is my HD completely dead?

I mean, I know the thread isn't about my problem, but it'd be better than starting a new one. I have looked online but found a lot of varying answers/opinions.

 

[Dragon]

Wireless KB on an initial build won't work most likely due to drivers not being there, but not sure that would cause it not to boot (unless you have the BIOS set to halt on KB errors).

Okay I'll get a USB KB/Mouse

MB should support DDR2 as well if you have some laying around, just double check the manual or online.

This link shows the compatible RAM and I don't see any DDR2 listed.

http://download.gigabyte.ru/memory/mb_memory_ga-h57m-usb3.pdf

Lastly, not talking about PC speakers that hook up in the back, but the actual MB speaker (the 4 pin job). PC speakers don't kick on until the OS fires up and the drivers load, so have to rely on the one directly on the MB itself.

Looks like this guy:

Some MB's have one built in, which would look like this:

Once you have that covered, any POST errors will result in beeps that you can cross check with the BIOS manufacturer to determine the point of failure. Your goal is a single beep, which means it passed the POST. If you get the single beep and it still won't boot, then your issue lies elsewhere.

Oh okay thanks. I appreciate the help, pictures make things easier. I'm about to head home and I'll take pics.

I would bet it is the RAM. I looked at reviews on newegg for that exact ram and 2 people claimed that their computer wouldn't boot with 1 stick.

I haven't built a computer in a few years (been playing consoles and WoW :lol) but it seems odd to me to have a 1 x 4gb of ram. I thought 2 x 2gb would be the way to go.

And on top of that, it looks like you have put together a pretty decent rig and that ram is definitely a bottleneck. Buy something better IMO. GL

Yeah, I mean Gigabyte said that the RAM is supported, but it's not listed on the memory compatibility list.

I should just get another 4gb stick, according to Gigabyte support it will boot with one memory stick. Sucks the newegg reviews were pretty good on that stick and I wanted fast RAM for some reason :lol.

 

[Kapura]

I recently built a machine myself, and I had exactly the same problems. The first thing I'd do is make sure you've got sufficient power, then see if you can isolate components or test them in different machines to eliminate them from the problem. In my case, the problem turned out to be a DOA mother board, so that may be what you have too. If you're not getting the BIOS or even startup beeps with all new parts, I'd be willing to bet the mobo is where the problem is at.

 

[Fireye]

I should just get another 4gb stick, according to Gigabyte support it will boot with one memory stick. Sucks the newegg reviews were pretty good on that stick and I wanted fast RAM for some reason :lol.

Get a second stick. Your mobo has dual channel support, which means two sticks will run faster.

 

[Willectro]

I would just return that ram and get 4gb+ of Corsair or OCZ.

 

[Revolutionary]

I would just return that ram and get 4gb+ of Corsair or OCZ.

Ugh. G. Skill is fine. Great, even - my last 2 builds have had G.Skill RAM and I they OC like a dream.
It's just that his particular stick might be bad - shit happens.

 

[Dragon]

 

[Priz]

As someone who upgraded to a 460 a few months ago, when I put it in, I was having this almost power on, then off issue myself. On the ASUS version of the 460 there are two connectors near the end. Each one needed either a connector from the Power Supply OR to use a Y splitter. (They only included one in the package, so I tried to use just that in either one, I'd get these symptoms). Luckily, I had another one from my previous video card and plugging that in (and both adapters using FOUR Molex connectors!) I was able to fully power my video card and at that time, able to boot to a BIOS screen.

 

[Reseil]

Interesting there are no DDR2's listed. Very well may be that they didn't include them for the sake of brevity and the assumption most users will be going the DDR3 route.

If you have access to some, you can always ask Gigabyte.

If it's starting up and restarting, then that usually points to CPU. If it's bad RAM, they mostly just hard lock and have to be manually shut off.

 

[Dragon]

Thanks for bearing with me guys. Here are some more pics of the CPU/heatsink

Here's a terrible video I took with my iPhone: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1V6bM_o0Eg

 

[Dragon]

As someone who upgraded to a 460 a few months ago, when I put it in, I was having this almost power on, then off issue myself. On the ASUS version of the 460 there are two connectors near the end. Each one needed either a connector from the Power Supply OR to use a Y splitter. (They only included one in the package, so I tried to use just that in either one, I'd get these symptoms). Luckily, I had another one from my previous video card and plugging that in (and both adapters using FOUR Molex connectors!) I was able to fully power my video card and at that time, able to boot to a BIOS screen.

Yeah I noticed that, I was trying to use onboard video if I could, but now I'm wondering if my CPU can't even use onboard video with the RAM I'm using...

 

[joelseph]

Do you have a second PSU? Have you tried that?

 

[Dragon]

Do you have a second PSU? Have you tried that?

I don't have any backups for any of this stuff, coming from an iMac here, haven't built a computer in like ten years. I'm basically salvaging parts from work where I can but our work doesn't have DDR3 memory.

 

[Reseil]

Well, if the CPU isn't the issue, you're about to find out since you pulled the sink. That's not an odd spread of TIM for a stock Intel I5 sink on top of it. Looks a bit thin, but that's typical for a stock sink. If I have to use a stock one, I always clean that junk off and use AS 5.

Will need isopropyl alcohol, q-tips, and cotton balls (and new thermal paste). Clean sink and CPU with alcohol. Be extra careful not to touch either surface after they're clean or you get oil in between the TIM and surface. Apply paste according to directions for an I5 and remount sink. AS 5 is the primo paste, but I've never seen it available retail.

Do that and if you can find a speaker, you should be able to at least find out at what point it's failing.

 

[Krauser Kat]

Well, if the CPU isn't the issue, you're about to find out since you pulled the sink. That's not an odd spread of TIM for a stock Intel I5 sink on top of it. Looks a bit thin, but that's typical for a stock sink. If I have to use a stock one, I always clean that junk off and use AS 5.

Will need isopropyl alcohol, q-tips, and cotton balls (and new thermal paste). Clean sink and CPU with alcohol. Be extra careful not to touch either surface after they're clean or you get oil in between the TIM and surface. Apply paste according to directions for an I5 and remount sink. AS 5 is the primo paste, but I've never seen it available retail.

Do that and if you can find a speaker, you should be able to at least find out at what point it's failing.

radio shack should have it. Just seeing that board makes me so pissed intel is still using the x peg mount stuff for heat sinks. the amd clip is so much easier.

If your coming from a mac. Do not fret you will be playing glorious pc games soon enough.

 

[Mudkips]

Make sure the 8-pin power connector to the motherboard is the one for the motherboard, and not one for the GPU (they're both 4x2 pins and have the same keying).

CPU and heatsink and paste look fine. It being stock or not perfect won't make it not boot.

You'll need a speaker or spare parts to diagnose anything further.

 

[Reseil]

Make sure the 8-pin power connector to the motherboard is the one for the motherboard, and not one for the GPU (they're both 4x2 pins and have the same keying).

CPU and heatsink and paste look fine. It being stock or not perfect won't make it not boot.

You'll need a speaker or spare parts to diagnose anything further.

He's got the right 8 pin hooked up for the MB power, the GPU connectors are 6 pins with the extra 2 pin hanging off of it, not one solid 8 pin like the one he has. I've got a couple PSU's that have the same setup, separate rails for 4 pin and 8 pin rigs, but use the standard 6/2 pin setup for your vid card(s).

I wouldn't rule out the proc pulling the instant overheat/reboot yet, but yeah, he's hating it without a speaker at this point.

 

[Hylian7]

When you say "won't boot", what do you mean? Is it powering on at all (you hear fans spinning, etc), or it doesn't even power on.

If it powers on but doesn't POST, then I suggest you check what hung me up on my first build. Make sure everything has power. This includes the CPU, the CPU fan, all your disk drives, everything. Probably the easiest to miss out of those is the CPU's power, without that it can't do a damn thing. You said you tried onboard video, so it sounds like it's not the GPU's power that's the problem.

 

[Willectro]

Op, I don't quite understand why you are getting so hung up on the thermal paste on the cpu heatsink? It doesn't get red hot instantly and cause the computer to not boot. :lol

 

[Dragon]

As someone who upgraded to a 460 a few months ago, when I put it in, I was having this almost power on, then off issue myself. On the ASUS version of the 460 there are two connectors near the end. Each one needed either a connector from the Power Supply OR to use a Y splitter. (They only included one in the package, so I tried to use just that in either one, I'd get these symptoms). Luckily, I had another one from my previous video card and plugging that in (and both adapters using FOUR Molex connectors!) I was able to fully power my video card and at that time, able to boot to a BIOS screen.

Can I have your kids? Yeah so, you were correct, this was the problem, once I hooked that in I got display to appear. I'm assuming on board video is disabled by default in the BIOS...

 

[Mudkips]

He's got the right 8 pin hooked up for the MB power, the GPU connectors are 6 pins with the extra 2 pin hanging off of it, not one solid 8 pin like the one he has. I've got a couple PSU's that have the same setup, separate rails for 4 pin and 8 pin rigs, but use the standard 6/2 pin setup for your vid card(s).

There are plenty of PSU connectors that use solid 4x2 block connectors for the GPU, not just a split 6+2.

 

[Priz]

Can I have your kids? Yeah so, you were correct, this was the problem, once I hooked that in I got display to appear. I'm assuming on board video is disabled by default in the BIOS...

I wouldn't be surprised if maybe you tried to boot with the video card and since it detected something in the slot, disabled it and then left it disabled. Anyway, glad to hear it considering I went through that same thing after I upgraded. (as I mentioned...)

I would like to point out that I do tech support all day long for a memory company, so I felt the need to post from work when I saw the thread. :lol

(Everyone tells me I need to write a book with some of the stories from my job, because I keep sharing them and they just are blown away...)

 

[Zinga]

Sounds stupid but make sure you pushed your memory in enough so you hear it 'click' in, if its not seated properly you can have problems like the one you are having now.

 

[Kiwi]

Try putting the memory in the white slot. I'm not exactly sure what's the blue slot is for. The motherboard should come with a manual that should describe what the slots are for.

I'm downloading the manual to confirm...

Manual said, Due to CPU limitations, read the following guidelines before installing the memory in Dual Channel mode.
1. Dual Channel mode cannot be enabled if only one DDR3 memory module is installed.
2. When enabling Dual Channel mode with two or four memory modules, it is recommended that memory of the same capacity, brand, speed, and chips be used for optimum performance. When enabling Dual Channel mode with two memory modules, be sure to install them in the DDR3_1 and DDR3_3 sockets.
Read the following guidelines before you begin to install the memory:
• Make sure that the motherboard supports the memory. It is recommended that memory of the same capacity, brand, speed, and chips be used.
(Go to GIGABYTE's website for the latest memory support list.)
• Always turn off the computer and unplug the power cord from the power outlet before installing the memory to prevent hardware damage.
• Memory modules have a foolproof design. A memory module can be installed in only one direction. If you are unable to insert the memory, switch the direction.


If only one DDR3 memory module is installed, be sure to install it in the DDR3_1 or DDR3_3 sockets.

----

It seems that you RAM is inserted in DDR3_2, from the picture shown (The one closet to the CPU). Put it in the next slot or the furthest slot which is DDR3_1 or DDR3_3. It should boot the computer.

 

[Dragon]

I wouldn't be surprised if maybe you tried to boot with the video card and since it detected something in the slot, disabled it and then left it disabled. Anyway, glad to hear it considering I went through that same thing after I upgraded. (as I mentioned...)

I would like to point out that I do tech support all day long for a memory company, so I felt the need to post from work when I saw the thread. :lol

(Everyone tells me I need to write a book with some of the stories from my job, because I keep sharing them and they just are blown away...)

You should watch the IT Crowd if you have Netflix, one of the IT guys answers every phone call with: "IT have you tried turning it off and on again?" :lol

Thanks again for your help, it was a stupid oversight.

Try putting the memory in the white slot. I'm not exactly sure what's the blue slot is for. The motherboard should come with a manual that should describe what the slots are for.

I'm downloading the manual to confirm...

Manual said, Due to CPU limitations, read the following guidelines before installing the memory in Dual Channel mode.
1. Dual Channel mode cannot be enabled if only one DDR3 memory module is installed.
2. When enabling Dual Channel mode with two or four memory modules, it is recommended that memory of the same capacity, brand, speed, and chips be used for optimum performance. When enabling Dual Channel mode with two memory modules, be sure to install them in the DDR3_1 and DDR3_3 sockets.
Read the following guidelines before you begin to install the memory:
• Make sure that the motherboard supports the memory. It is recommended that memory of the same capacity, brand, speed, and chips be used.
(Go to GIGABYTE's website for the latest memory support list.)
• Always turn off the computer and unplug the power cord from the power outlet before installing the memory to prevent hardware damage.
• Memory modules have a foolproof design. A memory module can be installed in only one direction. If you are unable to insert the memory, switch the direction.


If only one DDR3 memory module is installed, be sure to install it in the DDR3_1 or DDR3_3 sockets.

----

It seems that you RAM is inserted in DDR3_2, from the picture shown (The one closet to the CPU). Put it in the next slot or the furthest slot which is DDR3_1 or DDR3_3. It should boot the computer.

Yeah the memory has to go in the white slots first, and then the blue ones. It's confusing because it's not left to right, but the manual is right. I switched the slots, and plugged in the graphics card and voila. Boots up now. w00t. Thanks!