Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

I made some modifications to my stick. I replaced all the yellow buttons with new Sanwa "Dark Hai" buttons and replaced the yellow balltop with a Sanwa "Smoke" balltop. Not that the yellow looked bad or anything, but I like this much better. I also switched the wires for ZR and L to make it easier to use with Wii games and VC.

Before.

0krlB6N.jpg


After.

Ak5hTnr.jpg
 
Don't forget that two fairly inexpensive sticks were released yesterday with these parts. Import only now but I'm at least expecting the red wired version so make it to the Hori USA Store.


Which ones are those? I want to use an inexpensive stick on my ps3 versus whipping out my TE and RAP-SE for my 360. I want to dual mod (Cthulu MC) them but I don't want to ship my sticks and I live in Harrisburg Pennsylvania. Maybe I am just nostoalgic playing games on a Slik Stick on the C128 and ASCII Fighter Stick SN and want to use a similar form factor since I want to play on my lap comfortably. Are the recent Hori mini sticks are of good quality or is there a custom case that can hold an JLF worthy stic k with arcade parts?
 
I made some modifications to my stick. I replaced all the yellow buttons with new Sanwa "Dark Hai" buttons and replaced the yellow balltop with a Sanwa "Smoke" balltop. Not that the yellow looked bad or anything, but I like this much better. I also switched the wires for ZR and L to make it easier to use with Wii games and VC.

Before.

0krlB6N.jpg


After.

Ak5hTnr.jpg

Looks really nice!
 
I made some modifications to my stick. I replaced all the yellow buttons with new Sanwa "Dark Hai" buttons and replaced the yellow balltop with a Sanwa "Smoke" balltop. Not that the yellow looked bad or anything, but I like this much better.

I might have to do that to mine, too. ;-) looks good
 
Not sure if this is something anyone here would know about, but... is dual-modding flight sticks a thing? I have a 360 Hori Flight Stick EX2 that I'd like to use with a PS3, and dropping another $150 for the Flight Stick 3 is not exactly appealing to me.
 
LS-32 with shaft cover? MEGATON!

Indeed. As somebody who only uses LS-32 (never tried anything other from Seimitsu) this is totally a MEGATON!

Which ones are those? I want to use an inexpensive stick on my ps3 versus whipping out my TE and RAP-SE for my 360. I want to dual mod (Cthulu MC) them but I don't want to ship my sticks and I live in Harrisburg Pennsylvania. Maybe I am just nostoalgic playing games on a Slik Stick on the C128 and ASCII Fighter Stick SN and want to use a similar form factor since I want to play on my lap comfortably. Are the recent Hori mini sticks are of good quality or is there a custom case that can hold an JLF worthy stic k with arcade parts?

Still import so they are not that inexpensive yet for non-japan dwellers. But in japan they are about $115-130. Hoping Hori releases them here but even they said the NA first run of the Fighting Edge was about 600 pieces so who really knows.

And Harrisburg? Man, just spent most of january up past there (in Anneville) and that palce was ridiculously cold.
 
To be honest,

Most of us over at SRK who generally love Seimitsu product thought the new joystick announcements were a colossal joke! Who's running the company now -- Larry, Curly, Moe, or Shemp????

Seimitsu needs to produce a new design to compete better with the Hayabusa, NOT the JLF. Anybody that's used enough joysticks knows the JLF is NOT the end-all, be-all of control levers, period! It has some serious performance shortfalls and some inferior materials in construction. On the opposite side, we have the LS-joysticks with arguably better performance in many areas but still poor quality materials used in manufacture along with bulky, inelegant designs...

What Seimitsu needed to do was produce something that can compete effectively with the Hayabusa not introduce another warmed-over minimal re-tool of the LS-56 like they did with the LS-58 back in 2011! Most of us who have followed the LS-58 know what a joke THAT joystick turned out to be! The stock spring is too loose for many people and a lot of us LS-58 owners (that includes me) ended up installing LS-56 springs. In the meantime, a number of arcade parts shops which were importing LS-58's quietly dropped the stick and went back to importing LS-56's!

A looser spring or looser microswitches is NOT what's needed with the LS-60. Many people as it is have issues with the stock LS-56 -- it has a reputation of being somewhat sensitive and not the easiest joystick to handle at times. What Seimitsu needs to do is standardize a new joystick design around an existing, workable shaft -- preferrably the LS-40 or LS-56 -- and make a new base out of superior materials. They don't need to make another joystick design out of the same old stock base parts they've being using for 20+years now and they certainly don't need to keep using the same plastics that create QA problems and give performance fits to the end-user at the worst possible times when gaming.

[One of the clever moves Hori made with the Hayabusa was to standardize around the basic JLF shaft assembly. Really, the only thing that's new to the H-stick is the base design! Otherwise, it uses higher-quality plastics in construction with what I think is a very clever microswitch design that straddles the divide between 0.187-tab sticks and PCB joysticks. The existing shaft is very convenient when you realize it keeps the H-stick open up to the full range of after-market mod parts for the JLF -- balltop handles, bat sticks, actuator parts, alternate JLF shaft cover colors, etc.]

There's already a shaftcover solution for the LS-32 -- it's called a JLF shaftcover mod...! I've been doing that for 4+ years now... I think Seimitsu finally got its hearing aid batteries changed and heard the requests for an LS-32 production shaftcover. I mean the LS-32 has ONLY been on market for 20-some years!!!!

******************************************

I never thought I'd hear myself writing or saying this in public --
Hori gets it!

** They really have nothing to worry about...
** They have the best Japanese control lever out there right now.

I don't know how well the Kuro buttons will do in the final analysis, but they produced possibly the best control lever now.

The Hayabusa is THE best new arcade part introduction of the year.

When the Seimitsu news gets cold, and people pick their jaws off the floor and actually look at what Seimitsu's doing now and has done in the recent past, they'll realize how inconsequential their recent announcement really was...
IMHO, they -- Seimitsu -- really blew it once again!
They should have made an announcement only when they really had something new to show and really crow about it.
At this point in time, Seimitsu can go back, pay attention to what people/end-users of their product are saying, and act on that with a new, improved joystick design of their own, or license the Hayabusa design from Hori.

Seimitsu is NOT going to produce a better joystick design using the same old base parts they've recycled three or four times already...
 
Speaking of which, where's the best place to buy a Hayabusa lever?


Right now, only through Hori's website. And the Hayabusa and Kuro buttons are only for sale in the US and Japan at the moment...


There are also reports of several Japanese arcades equipping arcade cabinets with Hayabusa's and Kuro's right now, too.
There's a description and pictures of this on Hori's Facebook site.
 
There are a ton of cool photos on SRK as well. Comes in a neat little branded box and everything. Kinda want one for my Hori collection.
 
That's it, yeah. You can actually get a harness to connect to the LEDs on the PS360+ as well but I never went through that.
Cool, thanks for the confirmation. I made the connections last night -- attached the guide wire and a ground -- but haven't had a chance to see if the operation was a success or not. I'll be happy with having the guide/home button working. Crossing my fingers that I did it right.

Regarding the LEDs, I found a really informative thread on SRK (linked here) about getting them working. I was trying to sort out of what they were explaining. They talked about connecting one of the wires from a harness to something that's not a screw-in terminal (it requires a harness plug), and then about attaching some others to a completely different place on the PS360+ and bridging or de-bridging something. All way over my head. :(

Although if I'm interpreting the info in the post right, couldn't I just re-use one of the harness plugs I snipped off and put the wires I need into it? They just snap apart and you can put the new stripped wires into it, right?
 
Regarding the LEDs, I found a really informative thread on SRK (linked here) about getting them working. I was trying to sort out of what they were explaining. They talked about connecting one of the wires from a harness to something that's not a screw-in terminal (it requires a harness plug), and then about attaching some others to a completely different place on the PS360+ and bridging or de-bridging something. All way over my head. :(

Although if I'm interpreting the info in the post right, couldn't I just re-use one of the harness plugs I snipped off and put the wires I need into it? They just snap apart and you can put the new stripped wires into it, right?

More or less, yeah. There's a set of wire harnesses they sell specifically for the PS360+ that plugs into it for LED wiring, which would mean all you really would need to do is run those wires to the LED pins on the guide/turbo PCB and you'd be in business. I still need to do this myself, though at the same time I could just solder it all together and not worry about it.
 
I found a Tekken 5 PS2 stick at goodwill for cheap, but I can't say I'm a huge fan of how the joystick feels. What is a good stick that would be compatible with it?
 
More or less, yeah. There's a set of wire harnesses they sell specifically for the PS360+ that plugs into it for LED wiring, which would mean all you really would need to do is run those wires to the LED pins on the guide/turbo PCB and you'd be in business. I still need to do this myself, though at the same time I could just solder it all together and not worry about it.
Hmm, interesting. I found the set of wire harnesses you're talking about on FocusAttack.com. The only challenge I'd have using the cable from that -- for the LEDs -- is that I'm using the ground wire from "CN6", which I guess is needed for the home/guide button to work. I verified that it (home/guide) was connected correctly last night which was awesome. I just wish I could get the guide button "ring" lighting up and the player indicator LEDs working again.

I spent a few minutes trying to see if I could snap or pry apart one of the connectors I snipped off, but I couldn't see any obvious seam or pin or anything to get it apart. I kind of get the impression those don't open up; they're sealed at assembly time and can't be re-configured with different wires.

Here's a random question though... How do you connect anything to the Player LED's (marked as 2 in the diagram)? Those don't look like solder points to me; at least not nice visible ones like the others that are holes. And if I use those, do I have to do anything to the point marked "LED JP1 OFF"?

PS360.png
 
I think they're only sold through Hori's online store at the moment. They're priced pretty well, too, imo ($30). Not much more than a JLF could be had for anywhere else.

Hayabusa link

Sweet -thanks for the link! Ordered the stick and a set of Kuro's ($20 for a set of 8). Not too shabby. Can't wait to try them out. I'll probably install them on my HRAP3.

I'm still hoping the RAPV3 Hayabusa and wireless comes out in the US.
 
Sweet -thanks for the link! Ordered the stick and a set of Kuro's ($20 for a set of 8). Not too shabby. Can't wait to try them out. I'll probably install them on my HRAP3.

I'm still hoping the RAPV3 Hayabusa and wireless comes out in the US.

I'm fairly sure that if a "WRAP4" comes out for PS4 with Hayabusa/Kuro it'll be the only stick I buy this console gen.
 
I think I'll order a Hayabusa, very curious after years of Sanwa what the fuss is all about. Impressions?
 
I got my brawl stick two days ago... not owning or using too many sticks it feels nice already, but I wont be modding it outside of the art and button covers till after thesis show since these are mostly for a setup.

already tested with what I'm programming and it makes the game feel nicer.
 
Hmm, interesting. I found the set of wire harnesses you're talking about on FocusAttack.com. The only challenge I'd have using the cable from that -- for the LEDs -- is that I'm using the ground wire from "CN6", which I guess is needed for the home/guide button to work. I verified that it (home/guide) was connected correctly last night which was awesome. I just wish I could get the guide button "ring" lighting up and the player indicator LEDs working again.

I spent a few minutes trying to see if I could snap or pry apart one of the connectors I snipped off, but I couldn't see any obvious seam or pin or anything to get it apart. I kind of get the impression those don't open up; they're sealed at assembly time and can't be re-configured with different wires.

Here's a random question though... How do you connect anything to the Player LED's (marked as 2 in the diagram)? Those don't look like solder points to me; at least not nice visible ones like the others that are holes. And if I use those, do I have to do anything to the point marked "LED JP1 OFF"?

PS360.png

The ones you're seeing at 2 are the actual LEDs built into the board itself. You can, carefully, solder lines to the spots underneath the pins where the harness they sell would connect. More importantly, you can solder the wires from the end of the harness (they're bare) to the solder points on the turbo panel. The spots there are fairly large and soldering the harness directly allows you to just disconnect the harness from the board if you ever need to.
 
Sweet -thanks for the link! Ordered the stick and a set of Kuro's ($20 for a set of 8). Not too shabby. Can't wait to try them out. I'll probably install them on my HRAP3.

I'm still hoping the RAPV3 Hayabusa and wireless comes out in the US.



Most of the Amazon.jp and Hori-jp exclusive joystick releases don't make it through to official channels (re: Hori-USA website or GameStop) in the US.
It is possible that one of the arcade hardware dealers could pick up leftover stock and sell joysticks over here. Multiple import game companies did that in the past and that's how Japanese-exclusive releases ended up in the US -- among these exclusives were the White HRAP 3, the HRAP 2 SA, the original Japanese HRAP 3 SA production run, and the HRAP V3 BlazBlue Continuum Shift joysticks. Right now, the only company that seems inclined to import exclusive joysticks is Arcade Shock. (I bought my HRAP 3 SA and HRAP VLX Diamond through these guys...) They carry and have carried a LOT of formerly Amazon.jp exclusives... they actually had to mark down their HRAP N3 SA's after Hori-USA started officially selling those on the Hori website a few months back.

(HRAP N3 SA is the generic art Hori re-release of the same joystick case/faceplate panel used by the Hori Soul Calibur V joystick. The Hori DOA 5 joystick used a slightly different faceplate; the 30mm button positions were shifted a little bit in that release.)

Never say never... there's always a chance of a US release the Hayabusa HRAP V3's... More likely, they will probably be Arcade Shock releases of leftover Amazon.jp stock unless Hori's convinced they can sell these sticks in the US.
Nobody predicted Hori would release the Hayabusa and Kuro buttons separate from the Fighting Edge or that they would repack them into HRAP's, either!
(I'm still surprised they didn't do a Hayabusa/Kuro release on the HRAP N3/NX... That's their flagship HRAP right now. I wouldn't be surprised, however, if the parts did surface in a run of that stick case later this year! I'm personally sold on the Hayabusa. I really don't think Hori should buy JLF's from Sanwa or LS-32-01's from Seimitsu. They have a superior control lever in the Hayabusa!)

My thinking, though, is that Hori and Mad Catz have to be more concentrated on XBox One and PS4 joystick releases. The only thing holding up those are A) lack of killer-app fighting game titles and B) a smaller installed base for the consoles which can only go up higher unless the economy crashes.
IF Ultra Street Fighter IV does get confirmed for PS4/Xbox One, the bets are off -- of course, Hori and MC will release joysticks timed to release with the game!

I think PS3 and XBox 360 have at most 2-3 years left but in the meantime it really does seem like most people want to pick up new hardware/joysticks for the new systems and are pretty much out of collecting/buying gear for the PS3 and 360...
 
I think I'll order a Hayabusa, very curious after years of Sanwa what the fuss is all about. Impressions?


Head on over to Shoryuken.com and read the thread posts about Hayabusa Unboxing and Mods.

That has more information on the joystick than anything else written up for the past previous 18 months combined!

In short: Hori has a big winner here unless people continue to to keep their heads in the sand and are too afraid to let go of their JLF's.
I used the JLF in the past... there are multiple reasons why I switched over to the Seimitsu LS-32 and LS-40!
I think the Hayabusa is much better than the JLF... there is definitely some improvement over the LS-32 and LS-40, too.
The great news is that you don't have to throw away any of that equipment you bought for the JLF... All the balltop handles, bat stick handles, JLF shaftcovers, springs, and mod parts fit the Hayabusa shaft fine. The Hayabusa shaft is a clone of the JLF shaft... Only visible difference is that it's painted black. Oddly enough, Hori still packed a black shaft cover for the Hayabusa!
 
i picked up a hitbox earlier this week, and I am liking it. there are a certain kof motions that are still a bit difficult, but oh man not relying on stick motions is nice. I do get some cramps using my middle and ring finger.
 
The ones you're seeing at 2 are the actual LEDs built into the board itself. You can, carefully, solder lines to the spots underneath the pins where the harness they sell would connect. More importantly, you can solder the wires from the end of the harness (they're bare) to the solder points on the turbo panel. The spots there are fairly large and soldering the harness directly allows you to just disconnect the harness from the board if you ever need to.
That's actually a really good idea (soldering to the turbo panel points). I may give that a whirl. The other night I connected the USBVCC wire to the VCC screw-in terminal on the PS360+. Haven't had a chance to see if that at least would get the guide button lighting up. I care a little less about the player indicators.
 
Man I got super bored today and saw some interesting stuff in the Chinese end of arcade sticks.

Apparently Qanba made a new small form factor arcade stick released this year, the N1. From what I noticed, the N1 models are cased in transparent plastic. It doesn't look like it has the desk clamps found in the Q1 Cut models but there is support for it at the least. They still use their own arcade stick parts which are ok. I also notice the bottom of the stick, there is a hole to allow the shaft to freely move and that it can easily be opened with no tools.

Qanba also teamed up with QQ to do a special tournament for The King of Fighters '98 Ultimate Match Final Edition and offered a limited edition of the Q4 with awesome looking artwork. There is also a Q2 model in collaboration with a website called GOTVG with all right looking artwork

Using the magic of Google image searching I encountered results like this, this and this. Shoutouts to Hori in that last link.

While Taiwan (Vetash32 custom sticks, KDIT) and Korea (IST Magicstick, Magiclab M3) have their own arcade sticks, China is something.

Cronusmax DEFINITELY causes dropped inputs on the opposing player's side on 360. Tested yesterday myself. I used the ps3 FE, my friend had a 360 stick. There were times when he was obviously pressing several buttons, but nothing at all would come out. I guess it's a known issue on the development team's side:

http://www.cronusmax.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141245

I guess it's a 360 only issue. Didn't test any other consoles, so can't say for sure myself.

I forgot to ask but where were they plugged in? Were they both through the front or one through the back? Were both sticks the same Fighting Edge models? What game did you play on?
 
That's actually a really good idea (soldering to the turbo panel points). I may give that a whirl. The other night I connected the USBVCC wire to the VCC screw-in terminal on the PS360+. Haven't had a chance to see if that at least would get the guide button lighting up. I care a little less about the player indicators.

The only part of the guide button that lights up is the player LEDs, as far as I know. The VCC is there for things that need their own power like one of the LED sticks or LED buttons.
 
I want to buy a new stick. I want USF4 to come out on PS4, and I want to buy a nice new stick for my PS4. I want these things to happen so badly.
 
I forgot to ask but where were they plugged in? Were they both through the front or one through the back? Were both sticks the same Fighting Edge models? What game did you play on?

Both through the front. I was using the ps3 white fighting edge. He was using a dual modded TE. Not sure what it was modded with. We played SF4.
 
Both through the front. I was using the ps3 white fighting edge. He was using a dual modded TE. Not sure what it was modded with. We played SF4.

Hmm... I wonder if there would be a different if one was plugged in the rear. Maybe it would be different... or not. I might was well try testing with VF5's training mode with two TE sticks to see if there is anything noticeable.

I want to buy a new stick. I want USF4 to come out on PS4, and I want to buy a nice new stick for my PS4. I want these things to happen so badly.

You can always padhack but I did hear Dual Shock 4s are nightmarish compared to the Xbox One controller. If that tease does bring an official announcement, then I wouldn't be surprised if Mad Catz or Hori make something for the platform.
 
Maybe not available yet? Says 2014 on the page.
I want one now O_O

From recent Xuan Dou Zhi Wang user tutorials, I believe they are available now... in China of course. But I do wonder as well and hope it's soon. It's a very neat product just by how minimal it is. I hope to hear some news that Eightarc or Arcade Shock gets some.

The Q6 Wolf also isn't available outside China (well I found a link from Play Asia). I know people are not a fan of its camo choice but it would look all right as a solid color.
 
I want to buy a new stick. I want USF4 to come out on PS4, and I want to buy a nice new stick for my PS4. I want these things to happen so badly.

I haven't been in this thread in a while. So when I spotted it I wanted to come in here and say the exact same thing you did lol. Ono is teasing the hell out of us by posting a pic of a PS4 on top of a viewlex cab running USF4. Gives us hope, but no confirmation also leaves us a lot of doubt. I plan on buying the game for PC and Xbox, and I have no problem buying it at nearly full price on PS4 because their is no previous version to upgrade from. I just hope someone is ready to release a stick at the same time if USF4 PS4 happens.

EDIT: I feel like a idiot but it took me going back to look at the Q6 3 times before I finally realized it's a new arcade stick and not a game pad. I'm no camo fan myself so I'll be looking forward to different art styles they put out. And who knows, maybe they'll keep this design for their first next gen stick.
 
The only part of the guide button that lights up is the player LEDs, as far as I know. The VCC is there for things that need their own power like one of the LED sticks or LED buttons.
Yeah, just the VCC connection alone didn't do anything. On the bright side, it didn't break anything! :)

I've seen a video on YouTube of someone that got the guide light working, he just didn't give any instructions or details on how he did so. I tried to send him a message asking, but he never responded.
 
Head on over to Shoryuken.com and read the thread posts about Hayabusa Unboxing and Mods.

That has more information on the joystick than anything else written up for the past previous 18 months combined!

In short: Hori has a big winner here unless people continue to to keep their heads in the sand and are too afraid to let go of their JLF's.
I used the JLF in the past... there are multiple reasons why I switched over to the Seimitsu LS-32 and LS-40!
I think the Hayabusa is much better than the JLF... there is definitely some improvement over the LS-32 and LS-40, too.
The great news is that you don't have to throw away any of that equipment you bought for the JLF... All the balltop handles, bat stick handles, JLF shaftcovers, springs, and mod parts fit the Hayabusa shaft fine. The Hayabusa shaft is a clone of the JLF shaft... Only visible difference is that it's painted black. Oddly enough, Hori still packed a black shaft cover for the Hayabusa!

Thanks for this & your posts in Tech Talk. I have ordered a Hayabusa and I'm eagerly awaiting its arrival.

What's the deal with Kuro buttons? They don't seem to be as talked-about.
 
Thanks for this & your posts in Tech Talk. I have ordered a Hayabusa and I'm eagerly awaiting its arrival.

What's the deal with Kuro buttons? They don't seem to be as talked-about.

Not as good as sanwa. They feel really close to standard hori to me. I like them better than Seis...but I hate seimitsu buttons.
 
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