"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 2. Read OP, your 2500K will run Witcher 3. MX100s! 970!

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On the subject of W8 installs...I have the W8 upgrade utilities on a USB drive from when it was offered at a discount. Can I use this for a fresh install? I wanted to wipe the SSD and then reinstall W8. When I booted up my machine with USB, it would not locate the W8 files. I wanted to reformat from there and choose which SSD to install Windows on but I never could due to the above.

Do you need the full version, and not the upgrade,to do that?
 
Smokey said:
On the subject of W8 installs...I have the W8 upgrade utilities on a USB drive from when it was offered at a discount. Can I use this for a fresh install? I wanted to wipe the SSD and then reinstall W8. When I booted up my machine with USB, it would not locate the W8 files. I wanted to reformat from there and choose which SSD to install Windows on but I never could due to the above.

Do you need the full version, and not the upgrade,to do that?
Click to expand...

You can just make a fresh USB
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media
 
spons said:
That won't work. The 8 keys don't work for 8.1 setups, he'll need to install 8, then update to 8.1. On a side note, upgrade keys allow for installations but you won't be able to activate it. There are ways around that though.
Click to expand...

This really sucks how Microsoft does this. I think if I want to reinstall 8.1, I have to install 7, then 8, then dl 8.1 update. I'm never fucking doing that.


ohblahitsme said:
Alrighty, I can start with that. Thanks!

How much of a difference is there between that and the $445 build?
Click to expand...

The $445 build is decent as well if you want to go that route. The $545 has the upgraded ram from 4-8, the better GPU upgrade. You can mix and match the two builds to get something in between as well.
 
Are older power supplies fine to reuse? I have a Cooler Master 750w I want to say is 3 years old. Is that fine to use in a new build with Haswell and Z97?
 
LilJoka said:
You can just make a fresh USB
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media
Click to expand...

This is what I did when I got W8. But it says you need a W8.1 product key in the link above. I upgraded to W8.1 from W8, so I don't have that.

Since it couldn't find the files I ended up going through the process on my USB drive via desktop , and then downloading 8.1 from the store. Going this route still didn't wipe my SSD clean which is what I wanted ...

I'm just trying to get this straight so I can plug in my SSD on a new mobo and install a fresh version of Windows. Am I gonna have to get a full version?
 
Sectorseven said:
Are older power supplies fine to reuse? I have a Cooler Master 750w I want to say is 3 years old. Is that fine to use in a new build with Haswell and Z97?
Click to expand...

In most cases, yes. Check your model no, it might even be still covered under warranty. My PSU is covered for 7 years, so there's a good chance I'll reuse it in my next build.
 
CreepingFear said:
The $445 build is decent as well if you want to go that route. The $545 has the upgraded ram from 4-8, the better GPU upgrade. You can mix and match the two builds to get something in between as well.
Click to expand...

So here's what I got:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i3-4330 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($125.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi B85S3+ Ver. 6.x Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($64.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($79.23 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($139.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $547.17
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-06-11 15:53 EDT-0400)

Any issues?
I'd really like to increase the processor from an i3 to maybe an i5 (at least). I currently have an i7 on my laptop without a dedicated graphics card and I don't want games to run worse on my new computer!
 
mkenyon said:
The best possible that is reasonable given a certain budget :P

If the 270X is that, then it's good.
Click to expand...

I guess I asked for that!

Obviously a Titan Z would be silly, but say a ~£200 GPU may be worth it over the £130-£150 270X GPUs. I don't want him to have a GPU that gets held back by his CPU for example.

The goldilocks of GPUs is what he's after.
 
ohblahitsme said:
So here's what I got:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i3-4330 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($125.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi B85S3+ Ver. 6.x Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($64.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($79.23 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($139.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $547.17
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-06-11 15:53 EDT-0400)

Any issues?
I'd really like to increase the processor from an i3 to maybe an i5 (at least). I currently have an i7 on my laptop without a dedicated graphics card and I don't want games to run worse on my new computer!
Click to expand...
Nonono if you are going to OC get the Pentium and a Z97 100%.

Busy all day today, hope someone can respect for you like Good/Great.
 
ohblahitsme said:
So here's what I got:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i3-4330 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($125.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi B85S3+ Ver. 6.x Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($64.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($79.23 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($139.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.98 @ OutletPC)
Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $547.17
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-06-11 15:53 EDT-0400)

Any issues?
I'd really like to increase the processor from an i3 to maybe an i5 (at least). I currently have an i7 on my laptop without a dedicated graphics card and I don't want games to run worse on my new computer!
Click to expand...
Games would still perform better simply due to the graphics card. This is as close as I could get with an i5 (has a better power supply, more powerful graphics card and objectively better case):

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Biostar Hi-Fi B85S3+ Ver. 6.x Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($64.00 @ Newegg)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon R7 265 2GB Video Card ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $579.92
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-06-11 16:05 EDT-0400)]

Either that or wait a bit and look at getting a Z97 and the Pentium GODCHIP™.
 
Dries said:
But my Sandy Bridge i5 2500K will still kick ass? Hard to believe though, with all that new shit coming out soon.
Click to expand...

New shit is only slightly better than the old shit.

Intel is taking a break from raw speed and focusing on power efficiency and onboard graphics.
 
Smokey said:
This is what I did when I got W8. But it says you need a W8.1 product key in the link above. I upgraded to W8.1 from W8, so I don't have that.

Since it couldn't find the files I ended up going through the process on my USB drive via desktop , and then downloading 8.1 from the store. Going this route still didn't wipe my SSD clean which is what I wanted ...

I'm just trying to get this straight so I can plug in my SSD on a new mobo and install a fresh version of Windows. Am I gonna have to get a full version?
Click to expand...

Google for the SHA-1 Checksum
Windows 8 RTM English, 64-bit (x64)
Filename: en_windows_8_x64_dvd_915440.iso
Size: 3.33 GB SHA-1: 1CE53AD5F60419CF04A715CF3233F247E48BEEC4

Download the ISO that your license key allows you to. Use this guide to install to the USB drive
http://www.eightforums.com/tutorials/2227-create-bootable-usb-dvd-windows-8-iso.html

Use something like hashtab to confirm the SHA-1 checksum of the ISO you download.
 
THE:MILKMAN said:
I guess I asked for that!

Obviously a Titan Z would be silly, but say a ~£200 GPU may be worth it over the £130-£150 270X GPUs. I don't want him to have a GPU that gets held back by his CPU for example.

The goldilocks of GPUs is what he's after.
Click to expand...
It's easier to look at it like this:

The CPU controls the the lowest lows and the highest highs. The GPU will just change where the average is.

There are instances where the only thing holding you back is the CPU, which is mostly UE3. A better GPU is still going to be felt in that case though.

The big major studio AAA single player type games (that are *not* UE3) are generally always GPU bound, and will perform almost identical between a $100 CPU and a $1000 CPU.

So really, just buy the best single GPU that is possible within a given budget. There is no such thing as buying "too much".
Hazaro said:
Nonono if you are going to OC get the Pentium and a Z97 100%.

Busy all day today, hope someone can respect for you like Good/Great.
Click to expand...
This this this this this. It's not going to have super long legs, but if you're on a Z97 board with a Pentium, and two years down the road you need something with 8 threads, you can buy a 4770k/4790k/5790k and just pop it in.

I honestly wouldn't even touch anything between the unlocked pentium and the 4670K because IPC is still that important for gaming. There are 100000000 titles that will perform better on a 4.2 GHz Pentium than they would on a 3.0-3.4 i3/i5. There's only a tiny handful that would perform better on the i3/i5.

I'd really like to point this out in bold, but the Pentium should theoretically give almost identical performance in Source/UE3/MMO games to even the 4790K. In other words, if you play Dota 2, buy it. :P
 
Uhoh, I noticed via HWinfo that my CPU clocks were back to stock speed. Loaded up my BIOS and:

LNspVvf.jpg


I guess the first thing I want to know is how bad did I fuck up? I hope I didn't cause any permanent damage.

Secondly, how can I fix this? I'm guessing I went too low on my Vcore parameter. I'm rocking a CPU Clock Ratio of 41 and my Vcore was (manually) set to 1.320V. When I changed my Clock Ratio to 41 my Vcore automatically scaled to 1.340V. Now I've set my Vcore to 1.330V, hopefully I won't have this problem again. My CPU temparatures never hit the 70 celcius mark. I did some Prime95 tests and all seemed well. I didn't test for hours and hours though....

Was my Vcore too low though? Is that the reason I had boot failures?
 
The SilverStone PS08B is not much of a looker is it haha. What are some other decent cases in the price range between this and the Air 240? Coolermaster Silencio 352 any good, like the look of that. The Core 1000 seems plain enough. The define mini starts to get pricey but it is a cute little R4.
 
Addnan said:
The SilverStone PS08B is not much of a looker is it haha. What are some other decent cases in the price range between this and the Air 240? Coolermaster Silencio 352 any good, like the look of that. The Core 1000 seems plain enough. The define mini starts to get pricey but it is a cute little R4.
Click to expand...

I really, really like the Silencio 352.
 
mkenyon said:
It's easier to look at it like this:

The CPU controls the the lowest lows and the highest highs. The GPU will just change where the average is.

There are instances where the only thing holding you back is the CPU, which is mostly UE3. A better GPU is still going to be felt in that case though.

The big major studio AAA single player type games (that are *not* UE3) are generally always GPU bound, and will perform almost identical between a $100 CPU and a $1000 CPU.

So really, just buy the best single GPU that is possible within a given budget. There is no such thing as buying "too much".
Click to expand...

Thanks again. I'll get him to read this post and leave the ball in his court.
 
LordAlu said:
The 352 is a great case, it's essentially the same as the N200 but designed for quietness rather than cooling. Nice design and great internal layout too.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'd always liked the N200 but when I saw the 352 I was smitten. I love quiet cases and I actually think it looks better too than the N200.
 
Question! So, this Cooler Master V750 PSU is supposed to be pretty great. Would it be able to handle a dual 780 setup?

EDIT: Also, on the Gigabyte GA-Z97X-UD3H, are those yellow/orange parts removable? I'd like to color them white if possible.
 
Good to hear you guys like it, I end up building a PC for a friend or a friend of a friend every few weeks these days it seems like. Getting bored of ATX and R4.
 
[H]ardOCP's engineering sample Review

"Much to my embarrassment, ASUS' "Dual Intelligent Processors 5 with 5-Way Optimization" auto-tuning process almost immediately got me to a 4.6GHz all-core overclock at 1.32v. Getting into the tuning program and basically maxing out all of the "Digi+ Power Controls" I was able to push the 4790K to an extremely stable 4.7GHz/2400MHz as shown above in the screen capture....

...From information shared with me currently I would expect no more than ~5% of Devil's Canyon processors to reach 5GHz, and that would be on water cooling. Judging from these first engineering samples, 5GHz fully stable and not throttling on air seems to be unobtainable. Consider most of your 5GHz hopes dashed...

...That all said, considering the strong out-of-box clocks that the Core i7-4790K sports, and the small price difference between it and the 4770K, there seems to be little reason to consider the 4770K for a new build."

Welp, still waiting on those retail samples to get into reviewers hands! Holding out for some shred of 5GHz hope!
 
If you want to install 8.1 with 8 I made a guide. I'll post it when I get home. It involes Windows 8 Clean Install option.
 
CreepingFear said:
This really sucks how Microsoft does this. I think if I want to reinstall 8.1, I have to install 7, then 8, then dl 8.1 update. I'm never fucking doing that.
Click to expand...


You should never have to do this.

The link works fine. Just download the windows 8 installer and make installation media the exact same way you make 8.1 installation media.
 
Smokey said:
This is what I did when I got W8. But it says you need a W8.1 product key in the link above. I upgraded to W8.1 from W8, so I don't have that.

Since it couldn't find the files I ended up going through the process on my USB drive via desktop , and then downloading 8.1 from the store. Going this route still didn't wipe my SSD clean which is what I wanted ...

I'm just trying to get this straight so I can plug in my SSD on a new mobo and install a fresh version of Windows. Am I gonna have to get a full version?
Click to expand...

Use a program to extract you windows key. (it will be a windows 8 key even though you are running 8.1)

Download thee windows 8 installer. (not the 8.1 installer)

Make the installation media with your windows 8 key and the windows 8 installer.
Select a clean install.
 
Addnan said:
HDDs all suck, but WD seem to be the best of them. Back up your stuff regardless.
Click to expand...

But I heard a few years ago something happened with HDD production. Was that ever sorted out?

I'm sitting on two HDDs right now that are seven years old and around three years old and neither one has had any problems. On the other hand my dad had one die on him after a few months a couple years ago.

I'm only doing this because the only SSD I could afford was 128GB which is starting to be just barely enough for today's games. I'm having to put literally every non-software thing on an external HDD.
 
RedSwirl said:
But I heard a few years ago something happened with HDD production. Was that ever sorted out?

I'm sitting on two HDDs right now that are seven years old and around three years old and neither one has had any problems. On the other hand my dad had one die on him after a few months a couple years ago.

I'm only doing this because the only SSD I could afford was 128GB which is starting to be just barely enough for today's games. I'm having to put literally every non-software thing on an external HDD.
Click to expand...

There was a flood and caused HDD prices to sky rocket. Its all normal now.
I have hitachi, seagate, WD drives. Only my WD 1tb black has failed (non catastrophically). I was able to rip the data off on a read only machine (mac). I was sent a refurb, been running for atleast 2 years fine.
 
Does anybody have good resources for monitor calibration? I just bought new monitors and I'm struggling to get them looking good!
 
Dries said:
Uhoh, I noticed via HWinfo that my CPU clocks were back to stock speed. Loaded up my BIOS and:

LNspVvf.jpg


I guess the first thing I want to know is how bad did I fuck up? I hope I didn't cause any permanent damage.

Secondly, how can I fix this? I'm guessing I went too low on my Vcore parameter. I'm rocking a CPU Clock Ratio of 41 and my Vcore was (manually) set to 1.320V. When I changed my Clock Ratio to 41 my Vcore automatically scaled to 1.340V. Now I've set my Vcore to 1.330V, hopefully I won't have this problem again. My CPU temparatures never hit the 70 celcius mark. I did some Prime95 tests and all seemed well. I didn't test for hours and hours though....

Was my Vcore too low though? Is that the reason I had boot failures?
Click to expand...

Dont read too much into that message, it can occur when removing the power from a machine in some instances.

Go back to the settings you had previously and run Prime95 for a few hours. Tweak from there. You wont break things if you take a shot in the dark, but its unoptimal in terms of stability and cpu life.

Also not sure waht CPU you have but 4.1Ghz should be near stock Vcore. So work that out first in CPUz.
 
mkenyon said:
If you're going to OC those 780s, yeah. Seasonic 860 Plat, Corsair AX860 or AX860i.
Click to expand...

This post reminds me...the EVGA SuperNova G2 850/1300 should be added into the OP. They are really good PSUs (made by SuperFlower) and come in at good prices. Not sure if their previous PSUs ruined their name, but their G2 line is really solid.
 
Smokey said:
This post reminds me...the EVGA SuperNova G2 850/1300 should be added into the OP. They are really good PSUs (made by SuperFlower) and come in at good prices. Not sure if their previous PSUs ruined their name, but their G2 line is really solid.
Click to expand...

Smokey.....I'm gonna trust you.
 
Smokey said:
This post reminds me...the EVGA SuperNova G2 850/1300 should be added into the OP. They are really good PSUs (made by SuperFlower) and come in at good prices. Not sure if their previous PSUs ruined their name, but their G2 line is really solid.
Click to expand...
Yep. Just picked up a g2 yesterday because of all glowing reviews.
 
Smokey said:
This post reminds me...the EVGA SuperNova G2 850/1300 should be added into the OP. They are really good PSUs (made by SuperFlower) and come in at good prices. Not sure if their previous PSUs ruined their name, but their G2 line is really solid.
Click to expand...
When you're that high up, it's really hard for me to argue outside of Corsair because they offer those sweet sweet single braided cables in a variety of colors. When you're already dropping that kind of cash on the GPUs that require that sort of PSU, it seems like enthusiast territory has long been entered, and single braided cables are something that people with those setups enjoy.

But yeah, those new G2s are great.
 
I got a response from EVGA-JacobF on why reference cards don't come with high-flow brackets. I'll post his response just in case anyone is curious.

Me:
"I've been wondering for years now - why don't reference cooled videocards come with high-flow brackets by default? I remember that eventually EVGA started shipped the GTX 580's with them, however, nowadays the 780's, Titans, etc... still come with the restrictive styled brackets. It doesn't seem like the high-flow brackets would cost much more if at all to manufacture, so I was just wondering if there's a particular reason for this."

Him:
"Sometimes it can be a bit complicated because if the card is a 100% reference design, (assembled by NVIDIA) we cannot change the bracket. If the card eventually allows us to build it ourselves (like the case on the 580) we can put the high flow bracket on from the factory level."
 
Sigh. Having a real life argument with a friend about 8350 vs an i3.

He busted out the 'but console ports' argument.
 
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