"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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Does this seem wrong to you guys? My RAM has two different frequencies and max bandwith.

Both of your RAM sticks are Kingston brand, but they're rated for different speeds. The first one is rated as being 1866MHz and the second is rated for 1600MHz.

Did you buy the RAM separately?
 
No, I bought them together. :/

In a sealed package or used from someone? They shouldn't have come together in the same kit, they are different speeds. I could be wrong, but most RAM kits should feature RAM that were manufactured at the same time (at least all of mine have matching manufacture dates).
 
In a sealed package or used from someone? They shouldn't have come together in the same kit, they are different speeds. I could be wrong, but most RAM kits should feature RAM that were manufactured at the same time (at least all of mine have matching manufacture dates).

Was a sealed package. It was in November, but I only just realized..
 
Was a sealed package. It was in November, but I only just realized..

Hmm, my guess is that there was a packaging mistake, then.

Well, it's not that big a deal. Motherboards will automatically run RAM at the same speeds. If you picked up an H97 motherboard like the one you were looking at a few months ago, it will support 1600MHz at best, so it's not like you're missing out on extra speed by not having matching 1866MHz memory.
 
I'm sorry, I may have started laughing at around #6.

PC's...ah, they are a fickle bitch.

Aren't they just! I hardly ever have issues with them nowadays, and I think I can point to most of the issues coming from a shitty old budget motherboard not being super compatible with Windows 8, but man, when they screw up they can really screw up. I don't know how many pages I looked at of others with the same hdmi stereo audio only issue. Possible fixes include everything from "have you installed the right drivers" (argh! nothing more irritating to someone who knows what they're doing and are looking for actual answers!) to using some utility to check the EDID of the card to disabling a pin on the HDMI cable (I shit you not).

Sorry to all you first timers - I'm not trying to scare you away, honest! ;)
 
I seriously don't have a clue about this.

I went with a Corsair Air 540 for my case and my motherboard does not have enough fan connections.

How can I connect more of them?

I'm getting results such as 12v with 5v connections, molex to 3 pin. 4 pin to splits in to 3 pins. no clue.

How can I get the most power out of my fans?

On the cheap would also be great.
 
I seriously don't have a clue about this.

I went with a Corsair Air 540 for my case and my motherboard does not have enough fan connections.

How can I connect more of them?

I'm getting results such as 12v with 5v connections, molex to 3 pin. 4 pin to splits in to 3 pins. no clue.

How can I get the most power out of my fans?

On the cheap would also be great.

You probably just want something cheap like this fan splitter cable. They come in a variety of types, lengths and connections for just a few dollars. I'm not sure if all of them allow for speed control, if they are wired like the one in my example, all of the fans on that splitter are controlled at the same time at the same speed through the one motherboard connection.

Something a little more expensive would be a fan controller hub, I don't know where you are so I can't quote a price, but in USD they're like $15+. You can individually control the speed of fans as needed, though.
 
You probably just want something cheap like this fan splitter cable. They come in a variety of types, lengths and connections for just a few dollars. I'm not sure if all of them allow for speed control, if they are wired like the one in my example, all of the fans on that splitter are controlled at the same time at the same speed through the one motherboard connection.

Something a little more expensive would be a fan controller hub, I don't know where you are so I can't quote a price, but in USD they're like $15+. You can individually control the speed of fans as needed, though.

Would something like this work for full speed?
I got some Corsair fans so I hope it pushes them enough.
I'm in the U.S.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quad-3-Pin-...318?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item566447b47e
 

It's me again - after reading into the parts a bit - Since the motherbord doesn't have an onboard WLAN solution - are there any good sticks around?
Or a slightly better board similarly priced with a wireless chip on board?
 
Hey guys, is there a way to check if your motherboards PCI lanes or PCI controller is faulty in some way? Is there software that can check it/tell you outright?
 
Okay, I think I may get something like a Fan Controller to take care of the speed of my fans.

If I get one of those, will it come with everything necessary to connect all the fans (So I don't have to buy another cable)?
 
Okay, I think I may get something like a Fan Controller to take care of the speed of my fans.

If I get one of those, will it come with everything necessary to connect all the fans (So I don't have to buy another cable)?

It will but there is not much point. The motherboard headers is the best option since you can use software to control them.
 
Kl yh that would work fine although I think it may be better to go with one like RGM79 recommend with a 4 pin header for the motherboard which should allow the motherboard to at least control the fans somewhat with profiles so they don't run full speed all the time.
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/45cm...r-black-braided-cable-powered-via-4-pin-molex

It will but there is not much point. The motherboard headers is the best option since you can use software to control them.

okay,

this cable would do, right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Evercool-4-...455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4d104a0f

EDIT:

Too expensive?
 
Finally decided to introduce a SSD into my main server/gaming rig setup. Went for the Samsung 850 Pro (512 GB).

The installation and everything went super smooth. The only fucked up thing was that my Windows 8 key was rendered unusable. Because this is a major hardware change and I have a stupid OEM key. I felt silly, I really should have realized that this will happen. So for now I had to jump back to the Windows 10. The latest build is fine, but it has these weird hiccups at places.

The one thing I can confirm though - this SSD is a top tier upgrade. Most of the games I tried out loaded instantaneously.

Now I need to figure out how to redistribute my download stuff over the rest of my hard drives.
 
Type of cable is fine but you can only draw 1amp from each header. So if each fan was 300mA you could have 3 per header at maximum. So check your fans first, it's usually listed on the sticker.

These are the fans that are on the way, 4 of them.

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/air-series-af120-performance-edition-high-airflow-120mm-fan
Power Draw: 0.08 A

and will also have 2 of these:

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/air-series-af140-led-white-quiet-edition-high-airflow-140mm-fan
Power Draw: 0.23 A

Which cables would you recommend? My motherboard has room for 3 4-pins plus the CPU.
 
It's me again - after reading into the parts a bit - Since the motherbord doesn't have an onboard WLAN solution - are there any good sticks around?
Or a slightly better board similarly priced with a wireless chip on board?

Well, here's the list of mITX motherboards with wireless capability. ASRock seems to be the lowest priced when it comes to this. The ASRock H81M-ITX/WiFi (75€) features built-in wireless N support, but does not have frontal USB 3.0 support. If that is important to you, then I suggest going with the ASRock H97M-ITX/ac (99€) which is pricey but has a more premium design.

It would be somewhat cheaper to use a USB wifi adaptor (less than 40€), but which one I recommend would change depending on your needs. What sort of wireless network are you connecting to? Wireless N or AC? Which model of router you currently have?
 
These are the fans that are on the way, 4 of them.

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/air-series-af120-performance-edition-high-airflow-120mm-fan
Power Draw: 0.08 A

and will also have 2 of these:

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/air-series-af140-led-white-quiet-edition-high-airflow-140mm-fan
Power Draw: 0.23 A

Which cables would you recommend? My motherboard has room for 3 4-pins plus the CPU.

Let's try approaching this issue from another point of view:

What motherboard do you have? What cooler do you have and how many fans are on it? And how do you want the rest of the case fans set up? Are there certain fans you would like to group up and control at the same time? (e.g., frontal intake fans are one group, top and rear exhaust fans are another group)

Looking at the Air 540, it has:
Front: (x3) 120mm or (x2) 140mm
Top: (x2) 120/140mm
Rear: (x1) 120/140mm

What I would do is use one splitter to connect the three frontal 120mm fans into one motherboard fan header, and another splitter to plug the remaining top and rear fans into another header. The motherboard only sees two fans, but each one ends up controlling three fans, one group for intake, and the other for exhaust. Setting the speed for one header would affect all fans connected to that header. Makes sense?

All you would need are two of these splitter cables that allow you to plug three fans into each header, like this one from Newegg. You can probably find a similar one on ebay.
 
Let's try approaching this issue from another point of view:

What motherboard do you have? What cooler do you have and how many fans are on it? And how do you want the rest of the case fans set up? Are there certain fans you would like to group up and control at the same time? (e.g., frontal intake fans are one group, top and rear exhaust fans are another group)

Looking at the Air 540, it has:
Front: (x3) 120mm or (x2) 140mm
Top: (x2) 120/140mm
Rear: (x1) 120/140mm

What I would do is use one splitter to connect the three frontal 120mm fans into one motherboard fan header, and another splitter to plug the remaining top and rear fans into another header. The motherboard only sees two fans, but each one ends up controlling three fans, one group for intake, and the other for exhaust. Setting the speed for one header would affect all fans connected to that header. Makes sense?

All you would need are two of these splitter cables that allow you to plug three fans into each header, like this one from Newegg. You can probably find a similar one on ebay.

The Corsair 540 comes with x3 140mm fans. I will be moving two of those to the top for exhaust and replacing the back 140mm with a 120mm for exhaust as well.

Then, I will be putting x3 120mm in the front for intake. Is this a good setup?

this is my current motherboard:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131837

For the CPU, I'm using x2 120mm. So that will leave me with 2 headers left. I think that cable will do the trick then. Is there any issues with power? The site says that the fans need 12v. This won't give me trouble?
 
The Corsair 540 comes with x3 140mm fans. I will be moving two of those to the top for exhaust and replacing the back 140mm with a 120mm for exhaust as well.

Then, I will be putting x3 120mm in the front for intake. Is this a good setup?

this is my current motherboard:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131837

For the CPU, I'm using x2 120mm. So that will leave me with 2 headers left. I think that cable will do the trick then. Is there any issues with power? The site says that the fans need 12v. This won't give me trouble?

Are both your CPU fans plugged into the same header? I have a tower cooler with two identical fans on it, to control them both at the same time, I use a Y cable 4 pin fan splitter cable to plug them both into the CPU_FAN header. You shouldn't have issues with power. The fan headers provide 12 volts and as Liljoka said, each header supports up to one amp. You already know how many fans you will connect to each header, just add up the amps.
 
Cool! Just got my GTX 970 and i7 4790k processor order canceled by Superbiiz. Fuckin sweet! Now I can stare at a bunch of PC parts while I wait a few more days.
>:(
 
Looking at the nvidia titan x, how do you choose between which brand to go for?

Anyone know where to get a good deal within the UK? Cheapest I found us Amazon for under £900 (2-3 weeks dispatch)
 
My last part comes in today, feels like Christmas. I'm excited but scared. My first time building alone. Hope to be playing GTA 5 tomorrow.
 
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Total: 1989€

Hey guys - what do you think about this build?
Is the GPU underpowered for 1440p?
I also want to hop on VR this year once the Vive is released, so I don't know if a GTX 980 is the better fit (I don't really want to pay 200€ extra for a minor performance boost)

Alternatively I can get a Asus G20 prebuilt PC with the same specs but an GTX980 for 1600€. Although it's more expensive I really like the small form factor. Question is, if they are using a reference 980 and if so, is an OC 970 in the same ballpark?

This is the G20:
faq-G20.jpg
 
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Total: 1989€

Hey guys - what do you think about this build?
Is the GPU underpowered for 1440p?
I also want to hop on VR this year once the Vive is released, so I don't know if a GTX 980 is the better fit (I don't really want to pay 200€ extra for a minor performance boost)

Alternatively I can get a Asus G20 prebuilt PC with the same specs but an GTX980 for 1600€. Although it's more expensive I really like the small form factor. Question is, if they are using a reference 980 and if so, is an OC 970 in the same ballpark?

This is the G20:
faq-G20.jpg

Here's my version of your build, optimized for better costs and some better parts. I found faster RAM, better SSD, stronger power supply for potential SLI in the future, included a cooler for overclocking, etc.

Toshiba DT01ACA 1TB, SATA 6Gb/s (DT01ACA100)
Crucial BX100 250GB, SATA 6Gb/s (CT250BX100SSD1)
Intel Core i7-4790K, 4x 4.00GHz, boxed (BX80646I74790K)
G.Skill Ares DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR3-2400, CL11-13-13-31 (F3-2400C11D-16GAB)
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0, 4GB GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort (04G-P4-2975)
Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI
ASUS ROG Swift PG278Q, 27" (90LM00U0-B01370)
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Corsair Carbide Series 200R (CC-9011023-WW)
EVGA SuperNOVA B2 750 750W ATX 2.3 (110-B2-0750-VR)
Total: 1900.28€



You could save more money if you went with the i5 4690K instead. It can match the i7 4790K for most games as it is capable of delivering almost the same framerate performance, the i5 is for the best when it comes to cost versus performance. The i7's added hyperthreading does very little for gaming performance.

I looked around and there doesn't seem to be an Asus G20 with similar specs. At best they would have a reference style GTX 980 and a non-overclockable i7 4790 (non-K) processor. If you're interested in a smaller form factor, it is possible to go with a smaller mATX motherboard and case for a PC build and although not as nice-looking as the Asus G20, it will be much more upgradeable and expandable for the future.

Yes, a properly overclocked GTX 970 can reach stock GTX 980 performance levels. See these articles by ExtremeTech and Techgage for detailed comparisons.
 
Here's my version of your build, optimized for better costs and some better parts. I found faster RAM, better SSD, stronger power supply for potential SLI in the future, included a cooler for overclocking, etc.

Toshiba DT01ACA 1TB, SATA 6Gb/s (DT01ACA100)
Crucial BX100 250GB, SATA 6Gb/s (CT250BX100SSD1)
Intel Core i7-4790K, 4x 4.00GHz, boxed (BX80646I74790K)
G.Skill Ares DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR3-2400, CL11-13-13-31 (F3-2400C11D-16GAB)
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 SSC ACX 2.0, 4GB GDDR5, DVI, HDMI, 3x DisplayPort (04G-P4-2975)
Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI
ASUS ROG Swift PG278Q, 27" (90LM00U0-B01370)
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Corsair Carbide Series 200R (CC-9011023-WW)
EVGA SuperNOVA B2 750 750W ATX 2.3 (110-B2-0750-VR)
Total: 1900.28€



You could save more money if you went with the i5 4690K instead. It's nearly the same as the i7 4790K for most games, the i5 is for the best when it comes to cost versus performance. The i7's added hyperthreading does very little for gaming performance.

I looked around and there doesn't seem to be an Asus G20 with similar specs. At best they would have a reference style GTX 980 and a non-overclockable processor. If you're interested in a smaller form factor, it is possible to go with a smaller mATX motherboard for a PC build.

Yes, a properly overclocked GTX 970 can reach stock GTX 980 performance levels. See these articles by ExtremeTech and Techgage for detailed comparisons.

Damn. Thanks! Will look through it. :)
 
Hello fellow gaffers, after years of working/playing games on my laptop, I have decided to bite the bullet and join the pc master race...NeoGaf has really inspired me to take this up as a hobby. Currently playing dota2 & farcry4 and do alot of excel, browsing for my professional line of work. I do want to future proof this pc for the next 4 years. Total cost is $2100 AUD.
I just went with parts that seem to be the most popular/highly rated under pcpartspicker.com. Happy for any opinions or direction for my first build (:

  • Intel Core i7-4790K Devil's Canyon 4.0GHz Socket 1150
  • Corsair Hydro H100i Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
  • Asus Z97-A Lga1150 Atx Motherboard
  • Seagate SATA3 2TB 7200RPM Barracuda 64mb Cache
  • NZXT Phantom 630 White Full Tower case No PSU w Window
  • MSI GeForce GTX 970 Gaming 4GB Video Card
  • Samsung 250GB SSD 850 EVO
  • Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
  • G Skill 16G(2x8G) DDR3 1600MHZ PC3-12800 CL10(10D-16GBXL)
 
Used? Pretty good for a complete PC, especially with that R9 290. If the person is willing to sell the graphics card alone, I'd recommend buying just that and spending a little more building an Intel system instead, though. The FX-8350 and socket AM3+ motherboard platform is already abandoned and getting older and no better, and despite games starting to scale better to multiple cores, the AMD FX line is still matched by Intel's dual core i3 processors and beaten cleanly by quad core i5 models. For gaming on a budget, it's hard to beat the value of that used PC. I can't put together an Intel-based parts list cheap enough to compete, I just have concerns that it won't really be upgradeable and already represents older tech. Down the line in the future you'll need to replace both motherboard and processor.

http://www.techspot.com/review/943-best-value-desktop-cpu/page6.html
Yes, it's used but he's had a look and it's in really good condition. I've just spoke to him and mentioned what you said (thanks for help for a second time! :D) but he said he isn't really interested in doing anything himself, it's basically pre-built or bust. How far in the future are we taking before he'd have to realistically upgrade? He'd only be playing at 1080p with a single monitor.

I also actually got the parts list wrong. The bulk of it is correct however the PSU is actually OCZ 750W Bronze 80 plus and the SSD is actually 256GB.
 
Media Center/Server PC..

Which Video card? I'd like it to have at least 1 HDMI port, 2 might be nice..

I'd also like to spend as close to $100 as I can. Games will not be played on this machine and I'm not very concerned about noise.
 
So I've had this CPU cooler for since I built my system in 2011: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065&cm_re=Cooler_Master_Hyper_212_Plus-_-35-103-065-_-Product

I wrote a few weeks ago that I was interested in replacing the fan with something significantly quieter (also inexpensive), what are some good options? I'm a prime member so I'm looking to buy something on Amazon.

To be clear, you just want to replace the fan, not the entire cooler, right?

Also, what kind of budget were you thinking? Like $30?
 
To be clear, you just want to replace the fan, not the entire cooler, right?

Also, what kind of budget were you thinking? Like $30?

Yeah, just the fan. The cooler performs well enough (my i5 2500k is OC'd to 4.0ghz and runs between 50-60 when under load), but the fan has an annoying hum to it when I play demanding games. Ideally I'd like to spend $20 and under, but am willing to go more if it will make the cooler dramatically quieter. also, please note that I have an HAF Cooler Master HAF 912 case.
 
My Asus GTX 970 Black runs stable at 1528/8005 MHz.

Max voltage I can set in afterburner is 1.2120 (boo), so I could probably chase 1550+ with some bios flashing.
Memory has more overclock if I want, but I'm pretty satisfied with those numbers.

Max tdp so far has been 109%.

I will probably try a bios which allows higher voltage anyways. :p

Fucking love this card!
 
Hey guys, so thanks to the poster in the last page, I'm gonna hold off on piecemeal upgrading and just wait it out to buy all my new computer parts this fall w/ Skylake.

In the meantime I figured I'd at least throw some more RAM into my currently RAM-starved desktop.

It had HyperX Blu 2/2GB with these specs:
DDR3 1333
Timing 7-7-7-21
Cas Latency 7
Voltage 1.65

Which to my understanding is pretty good for what it is. My Mobo is only compatible with up to 1333 so I was just gonna buy another 2 sticks of 2GB so I'd have 8GB total instead of getting rid of this RAM.

I can either buy the same pair, to have matching sets, for about $55 used on Amazon from a third party seller, or I could buy something with the same clockrates/specifications, such as:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=.

Only I assume if I bought that, I'd have to take out my older RAM, because 4 + 8 does not work well together correct?

They're roughly the same price, either $61 for the Gskil X, or 55 for the HyperX Blu, but one I'd be getting Brand new and 8GB, the other used and 4.

Any thoughts?
 
Alright, only reason why I said that is that some people said there could be compatibility issues, but you're saying that as long as I get RAM with the same timings/specs it should be fine?

The RAM you have and the RAM you linked on newegg also require different voltages (1.65 vs 1.5 V). I don't think it's a good idea to combine those, pick some 1.65 V sticks, though I don't know if 4 x 1.65 V can get a bit much for the motherboard.
 
Yeah, just the fan. The cooler performs well enough (my i5 2500k is OC'd to 4.0ghz and runs between 50-60 when under load), but the fan has an annoying hum to it when I play demanding games. Ideally I'd like to spend $20 and under, but am willing to go more if it will make the cooler dramatically quieter. also, please note that I have an HAF Cooler Master HAF 912 case.

Anyone? Not to be pushy, but I'd like to order something in the next couple of hours so it arrives before the weekend.
 
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