Cindi Mayweather
Member
Nope. My 4 Kai has Hayabusa buttons.
Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
Nope. My 4 Kai has Hayabusa buttons.
Cindi - you enjoying your 4 Kai?
just pulled the trigger on one. thanks for your help, yall.
the description confirms what others have said: the original stick was upgraded to new hayabusa buttons
just pulled the trigger on one. thanks for your help, yall.
the description confirms what others have said: the original stick was upgraded to new hayabusa buttons
Like I said in the thread last night, my Kai came in with Hayabusa buttons as well, and this was ordered a week ago from Hori USA's own site back at a time when their web-shop still listed the stick as using Kuro buttons. By this point in time I'd say it's a pretty safe bet you'd be getting the Hayabusa button revision if you were to order now from just about any retailer that's been selling these on the regular.
As for the stick itself, they feel awfully similar to me. The throw on the Hayabusa feels a tiny bit longer but honestly I think that's just a function of the square gate as opposed to an octo leaving the extra space to that corner.
Speaking of which, has anybody here used the Kowal Hayabusa Octopus gate before? I've seen it hyped on Focus Attack with the talk of the rounded corners and so on and I wondered if much of a difference is really felt compared to more standard octo gates. I've been adjusting to the square gate quickly for the most part, but half-circles have been kinda hit or miss and seeing as I hope to main Alex in SFV, that's going to be kind of important.
As for the stick itself, they feel awfully similar to me. The throw on the Hayabusa feels a tiny bit longer but honestly I think that's just a function of the square gate as opposed to an octo leaving the extra space to that corner.
Speaking of which, has anybody here used the Kowal Hayabusa Octopus gate before? I've seen it hyped on Focus Attack with the talk of the rounded corners and so on and I wondered if much of a difference is really felt compared to more standard octo gates. I've been adjusting to the square gate quickly for the most part, but half-circles have been kinda hit or miss and seeing as I hope to main Alex in SFV, that's going to be kind of important.
I have five of them. They feel like sanwa octogan gates.
Even with the defects that I'll eventually have to fix with the tes+, I still prefer it to my Kai.
Kuro buttons were meh, but that's a thing of the past now. In my case, I dropped some old sanwas of mine.
Right now the two things I don't like about my Kai are the placement of the start button and the angled palm rest. I prefer a larger, flat surface for my palms.
Kuro buttons were meh, but that's a thing of the past now. In my case, I dropped some old sanwas of mine.
Right now the two things I don't like about my Kai are the placement of the start button and the angled palm rest. I prefer a larger, flat surface for my palms.
pineapplepizza
Member
Dang I didn't know people were prying open the switches lol. I mean it's a $350 gaming device, it's almost as expensive as a current gen console... Shouldn't have to be messing with this. I might return mine.
Sure the stick itself costs a small fortune, but the microswitches themselves are only like $3 a pop, and a replacement PCB assembly with four microswitches only costs around $15.
Anyway, my stick isn't squeaking anymore, but I'm still not too happy about the creaking and the plexi moving around slightly. With all these small niggles the TE2+ definitely doesn't feel like a premium product in the same way that my round 1 TE did back in the day.
Hm. Yeah, reading that Amazon link it seems the Kai now has the new Hayabusa buttons and an XInput PC mode.
I just ordered one myself. My TES+ should be here on Monday, and I'm interested in comparing it to the latest Hori offering. I've never used anything but Sanwa parts, but the matte buttons and XInput mode in particular have me interested. Plus I still have Amazon credit I need to offload.
Also don't recall if I've used any modern Hayabusa levers to be honest. Cindi - have you used a Sanwa JLF lever before, like the ones in the TE/TE2 sticks? I'm curious how they compare.
AbundantChoice
Member
Yeah, my RAP 4 Kai that just showed up from Amazon has the Hayabusa buttons. I love the fact that it can swap between PS3, PS4, and Xinput mode for PC.
I originally got it for SF5, but i've been playing more DARIUSBURST with it so far than anything. Shmups actually feel pretty good on it.
The one thing i'm having to get used to is I assumed the stick was going to be... I don't even know how to put this... locked into place? But if you pull "up" on the stick (i.e. away from the base) it has some give and comes up some. And the balltop seems like it can spin pretty freely as well.
I originally got it for SF5, but i've been playing more DARIUSBURST with it so far than anything. Shmups actually feel pretty good on it.
The one thing i'm having to get used to is I assumed the stick was going to be... I don't even know how to put this... locked into place? But if you pull "up" on the stick (i.e. away from the base) it has some give and comes up some. And the balltop seems like it can spin pretty freely as well.
That's totally normal, and would occur on a Sanwa JLF lever too. The top spins because the lever itself also rotates freely in the mechanism. That prevents you from ever loosening or unfastening the top during actual use. To unscrew it you just open the stick and put a screwdriver or something in the bottom of the lever to prevent it from rotating, at which point you could unscrew the top from the lever.
Tyrant Rave
Banned
My last two sticks had JLF levers and I really like the Hayabusa lever in my HRAP. I think it's just as good.
Yes, but it will be slightly loose.
Ivan Amiibo
Banned
anyone know what parts are in the PS2 Tekken 5 hori stick? Hori's own proprietary stuff?
side to side or up & down?
Cindi Mayweather
Member
Yep!
My only complaint is the start button placement. Have no idea what they were thinking with this.
Murdamonk
Member
Amazon.ca still shows the HRAP4 Kai with Kuro's buttons. I am kinda worried that is what i will get if i order one.
Got the TES+ and a TE2+ at the moment and love them both. But thinking of giving my TES+ to my nephew and getting the new HRAP4 with Hayabusa buttons. Is it really worth it?
Got the TES+ and a TE2+ at the moment and love them both. But thinking of giving my TES+ to my nephew and getting the new HRAP4 with Hayabusa buttons. Is it really worth it?
that's a shame. anything i can do to make it fit snug?
pineapplepizza
Member
TE2+ Challenges/Issues:
Yeah, replacing a single screw or washer inside of the TE2+ to fix an issue could cost 1 cent but its the part about it being $350 product. This is as expensive as a current gen console. People should not have to do any tweaking to fix these issues. Where's the QA?
- All you have to do is move the stick in all directions to hear audible squeaking of microswitches
- Apply some pressure to the case, around the bezel etc to hear the multiple squeaking sounds of the plastic. Minor but present (comes and goes).
- The little bit of arm hair that I have has been pinched between the plexi and bezel multiple times while playing. It's annoying and painful lmao.
- The plexi and top panel of the stick is flimsy and any pressure applied it starts to cave in (does not feel solid)
- The stick is hollow inside so button presses and stick movements are LOUD. Especially when registering stick movements. If you put effort into 'riding the gate' or being forceful and you hit the edge to register dashes etc, the stick emits a loud deep sounding "THUD". Although the case is heavy and "feels" solid, it does not absorb the sound. Instead, it creates almost an echo chamber.
- The top panel does not sit flush with the rest of the case, on the side it's noticeably above the side panels. Even though the case is locked you can push the case down with your finger to make it flush. Minor but present.
- Since they designed the stick plexi to be removable so that you can change art without removing buttons, there is a gap between the buttons and the plexi. Enough that after 1 week I can see micro-dirt (a few specs) around a few of the buttons against the white background art (on the inside of the plexi). This means after a few months time, eventually, enough little micro-dust/dry skin/hair/food particles could build up around the buttons and you will have to remove the plexi panel to clean around it. (Yes this might not happen to most of us but still useful to be aware of. micro-dirt/dust CAN get trapped around the buttons on the inside of the plexi.)
- The edge on the bottom where the case begins sloping down is also very sharp. It's not a gradual curve downwards like their other models. Oddly after the first week my wrist/forearm felt bruised after playing because it almost feels like it's pressed against the bone. It needs to be sanded and smoothed down to round it off, again it's very sharp. (see pic below)
Yeah, replacing a single screw or washer inside of the TE2+ to fix an issue could cost 1 cent but its the part about it being $350 product. This is as expensive as a current gen console. People should not have to do any tweaking to fix these issues. Where's the QA?
notworksafe
Member
the more i see about TE2 issues, the happier I am that I just padhacked my old sticks for this gen. 6-8+ year old sticks still holding up great
AbundantChoice
Member
Ah, that makes a lot of sense.
So yeah, after a full day of use I am digging the RAP 4 Kai. I don't have much other stick experience so I can't give a "the new Hayabusa buttons beat the pants off the old Kuro buttons!" or any in-depth analysis, but it feels very solid and the Xinput switch works as advertised (I wasn't looking forward to having to use an input wrapper).
I was slightly surprised at the matte, textured finish to the buttons. I'm guess i'm too used to the shiny smooth plastic of my childhood arcade memories. But the buttons feel great, and the stick feels really good too. I do see myself doing a ball-change mod (and maybe L1 and L2 swap as well) down the road just to give the stick a touch of color.
Now to start training myself that I don't need to ride the gate, and small motions are actually more effective than ramming the stick to the edges. Not to mention the whole "cup the stick, trapping the stick between the ring and middle finger" technique everyone seems to recommend, versus my old "thumb and index on the top of the ball" default.
TE2+ Challenges/Issues:
Some of these may be non-issues for other stick users. There are so many variables depending on their playstyle, preferences, hand positioning and how 'clean' they are etc. But I wanted to post this info for awareness before someone spends $350 on gaming hardware.
- All you have to do is move the stick in all directions to hear audible squeaking of microswitches
- Apply some pressure to the case, around the bezel etc to hear the multiple squeaking sounds of the plastic. Minor but present (comes and goes).
- The little bit of arm hair that I have has been pinched between the plexi and bezel multiple times while playing. It's annoying and painful lmao.
- The plexi and top panel of the stick is flimsy and any pressure applied it starts to cave in (does not feel solid)
- The stick is hollow inside so button presses and stick movements are LOUD. Especially when registering stick movements. If you put effort into 'riding the gate' or being forceful and you hit the edge to register dashes etc, the stick emits a loud deep sounding "THUD". Although the case is heavy and "feels" solid, it does not absorb the sound. Instead, it creates almost an echo chamber.
- The top panel does not sit flush with the rest of the case, on the side it's noticeably above the side panels. Even though the case is locked you can push the case down with your finger to make it flush. Minor but present.
- Since they designed the stick plexi to be removable so that you can change art without removing buttons, there is a gap between the buttons and the plexi. Enough that after 1 week I can see micro-dirt (a few specs) around a few of the buttons against the white background art (on the inside of the plexi). This means after a few months time, eventually, enough little micro-dust/dry skin/hair/food particles could build up around the buttons and you will have to remove the plexi panel to clean around it. (Yes this might not happen to most of us but still useful to be aware of. micro-dirt/dust CAN get trapped around the buttons on the inside of the plexi.)
- The edge on the bottom where the case begins sloping down is also very sharp. It's not a gradual curve downwards like their other models. Oddly after the first week my wrist/forearm felt bruised after playing because it almost feels like it's pressed against the bone. It needs to be sanded and smoothed down to round it off, again it's very sharp. (see pic below)
Yeah, replacing a single screw or washer inside of the TE2+ to fix an issue could cost 1 cent but its the part about it being $350 product. This is as expensive as a current gen console. People should not have to do any tweaking to fix these issues. Where's the QA?
The only real issue I'm having with mine has been the stick squeaking, but you're right about it being unacceptable considering how expensive it was. I'm even more annoyed because it's still squaky after opening up and cleaning all my microswitches, so I get the feeling they just used an old and faulty batch or something.
I'm going to talk to Amazon about possible reimbursement/replacement, or maybe consider a new PCB/switches.
GreenMonkey
Member
Anyone buy the Kai from Fry's? Have some Google Express credit I was considering using for it. Not sure which version I'll get.
It's been their design for some time, and I actually really like better it on top than on the front side like the Mad Catz sticks. I don't play in tourneys and need to hit start a ton so it's much more convenient.
However you can always use the reassign feature of the stick to disable it, which moves the start function to the turbo button on the side. You can also remap the touchpad, L3 or R3 button to it, if you're worried about hitting it during gameplay.
I just had a talk with Amazon about the squeaky TE2+ and they said that since the item was currently out of stock, they could do a partial refund of about $130 (around half of what I paid). I'd rather the stick didn't squeak, but this at least makes it easier to deal with (and I'll probably end up buying a new pcb/switches now).
why would they only refund you $130?? it hasn't been 30 days since release and the product is faulty.
DeathByBacklog
Member
WHat!??!? Wow. That's a crazy refund.
You think they should have done a full refund? I dunno, I thought that was more than fair considering the stick technically works fine and I'm keeping it.
DeathByBacklog
Member
What's all the squeeking people are talking about? I don't seem to notice anything. Wondering if I should open up my second and test it.
pineapplepizza
Member
Damn 50% discount huh Edzi, that's insane. Amazon sometimes is unbeatable customer service wise.
Sounds like they're refunding that amount, but also letting him keep it.
CrashPrime
Member
The Xbox version (hrap v) on express didn't get a non-kuro revision so you will get busa+kuro.
mr_sockochris
Member
This has probably been asked a hundred times but is there an easy way of getting my 360 sticks to work on Xbox One? I'm really getting into KI now but playing without a stick is really starting to hold me back.....
Is it really? I'm coming from a q4 and going from a felt bottom to foam feels like a step down. I was actually thinking about buying some felt and gluing it to the bottom.
lol, that's where I feel the opposite. I prefer the foam to the Qanba Q4's felt.
On the whole though the Q4 is likely best constructed.
I built this about 2 weeks ago and am finally getting around to posting pics.
Build is as follows:
PFS2 by Jasen's Custom
Brook UFB
Kaimana Khameleon LED board by Jasen's Custom
Obs-MX black by PAS
Sanwa JLF w PAS 2# spring and GTC by Toodles
This is without a doubt the absolute best stick Ive used..... EVER. The PFS is so sturdy, the MX's crisp and responsive, and the UFB is obv better than using a converter. Can't wait to see how the "System of Systems" works on my CMVS.
Build is as follows:
PFS2 by Jasen's Custom
Brook UFB
Kaimana Khameleon LED board by Jasen's Custom
Obs-MX black by PAS
Sanwa JLF w PAS 2# spring and GTC by Toodles
This is without a doubt the absolute best stick Ive used..... EVER. The PFS is so sturdy, the MX's crisp and responsive, and the UFB is obv better than using a converter. Can't wait to see how the "System of Systems" works on my CMVS.
I built this about 2 weeks ago and am finally getting around to posting pics.
Build is as follows:
PFS2 by Jasen's Custom
Brook UFB
Kaimana Khameleon LED board by Jasen's Custom
Obs-MX black by PAS
Sanwa JLF w PAS 2# spring and GTC by Toodles
This is without a doubt the absolute best stick Ive used..... EVER. The PFS is so sturdy, the MX's crisp and responsive, and the UFB is obv better than using a converter. Can't wait to see how the "System of Systems" works on my CMVS.
Awesome. What is the port next to the rj45 port? Does that allow you to play on arcade boards?
So there seem to be quite a few new Hori users. Are you at all bothered by the little wrist support on the RAP series? I really would like to give Hori a try but I'm actually quiet concerned by the layout of this stick because I absolutely need to rest my hands on these things. One thing I might like however is that they seem to have increased the distance between lever and buttons with the Kai layout when compared to the normal Viewlix layout.
Could someone of you please measure the distance from the bottom border of the top area (so without the slanted area) to the lever shaft?
Could someone of you please measure the distance from the bottom border of the top area (so without the slanted area) to the lever shaft?
pineapplepizza
Member
Amazing job, that is S-tier ! Which type of cherry switches did you go for, black? Can you throw up a quick video (I'm curious how the buttons sound in that shell)?
It's just about 7cm from the "bottom" of the surface (not counting the slope) to the beginning of the stick-shaft.
I will say, coming from initially practicing on a TE1 I was very startled at first by the way that slope cuts down so soon when I was used to resting my hand on the fully-flat surface. Within just the one day I've been tooling around with it, though, it's been a really fast adjustment and I'm completely fine with the lack of bottom space now. The bottom of my palm rests right on the slant and all the main buttons are still easily reachable. It's a different feel, but not a worse one.
If anything now that I think about it, what it might come down to is how you normally balance your stick while playing, meaning its natural height and resting angle. If you're used to playing on the floor or a low table where the stick is fairly low, then I could see this being an issue. Lately I've been resting the stick on my knees and at that height/angle it works just fine.
I'm slowly coming around to the Hayabusa buttons, too. They feel like they don't depress as far as a Sanwa so it feels like they don't give as much immediate physical feedback when you press them, but they're quick and responsive and have their own unique snappiness to them. I wish Hori would release them in different colors so I could feel like toying around with the stick's style without having to replace literally all the buttons for consistency's sake.
You can get:
Brook 360 to Xbox One adapter. Only works for that combo with no x1 controller needed to authenticate.
or
CronusMaxPlus, which requires authentication with an X1 controller,but is much more flexible for use on other systems too.
Both are good, but Brook is simpler to use.
AbundantChoice
Member
So it's just under 3" from the bottom of the top area to the lever shaft itself. Or about 2.5" from the bottom of the top to the edge of the little flat plastic disc that sits around the bottom of the shaft. Then the slanted part at the bottom of the top is another 1.25" in addition to those numbers.
Cindi Mayweather
Member
Well I am sort of a noob when it comes to arcade stick. I've had a Hori RAP3 since 2010 which is at my parent's place and I am taking it back with me this year for SFV.
I do want to mod this thing a bit with a new artwork, perhaps replace the Kuro buttons with Sanwa. I would have replaced the board so that I can use it on PS4/Xbone but I don't think there are any that I can get for this stick, I'll just use my CronousMax.
What I want to know is, are there are places where I can order pre made artwork for this arcade stick? (I don't know any place near my house that can print in that kind of paper) I have no idea where to look for and this is quite an old stick so don't know if anyone even does artwork for these anymore.
I do want to mod this thing a bit with a new artwork, perhaps replace the Kuro buttons with Sanwa. I would have replaced the board so that I can use it on PS4/Xbone but I don't think there are any that I can get for this stick, I'll just use my CronousMax.
What I want to know is, are there are places where I can order pre made artwork for this arcade stick? (I don't know any place near my house that can print in that kind of paper) I have no idea where to look for and this is quite an old stick so don't know if anyone even does artwork for these anymore.
Use this site: http://tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=4
You'll need to submit your own art in photoshop. Directions here: http://tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/index.cfm?loc=about&sub=art
Submission page: http://tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=art
You might want to consider to get plexiglass to hold the stick art in place. You can even etch inputs on them.
I recently modded HRAP 3s with new art from the site:
