sixteen-bit
Member
It totally plastic. Would need a metal base to justify that price imo. It just feels so cheap.
Maybe worth $35
Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
Maybe worth $35
Depends on whether you need native PS4 support or not. Otherwise, there are much better sticks available around that price point.
Mayflash F300 ($50): supports native DInput/XInput/PS3, supports 360/XBO/PS4 when connected to an OEM controller, easily moddable. One of the reviews claims it natively works with PS4 SFV in legacy mode.
Mayflash V2 ($65): supports native DInput/XInput/PS3/360, easily moddable.
katsubento
Member
Maybe for your kids
Rabid Dwarf 76
Member
So I want to put a Brook's universal pcb in my Hori RAP 3. This one:
Could anyone point me in the direction of a guide to help me connect the wires properly? I have no idea where the wires for the little switches or the start/select and player 1234 LED wires go. This is my first pcb swap and I really don't want to screw this up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Edit: Also how do I mount the pcb in the case? The old one was shorter than the Brook's pcb so the screws don't line up.
Could anyone point me in the direction of a guide to help me connect the wires properly? I have no idea where the wires for the little switches or the start/select and player 1234 LED wires go. This is my first pcb swap and I really don't want to screw this up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Edit: Also how do I mount the pcb in the case? The old one was shorter than the Brook's pcb so the screws don't line up.
bumpkin
Member
Finished my fight stick build tonight! It was quite the experience. I've never done any wiring work, so stripping the wires and crimping the quick disconnects was an experience to say the least. I opted to daisy chain grounding wires which in my haste and inexperience, I screwed up more than once. Let me just say I was happy that I ordered extra terminals; I needed 'em!
Got all of the grounding wires in place for the start, select/back, home and all eight buttons in place.
Measured, cut, crimped and attached all of the signal wires, mounted the PCB and put the bottom frame piece back on.
Top view after I put the mirrored bottom back on. I'm actually really pleased with the look, wire jungle and all. Looks like 80's high tech! The silver USB cable inside was kind of a happy accident. We recently got a wireless printer so I didn't need the cable for my desktop computer anymore.
Plugged it into my 360 and was pleasantly surprised by the blue LED. I had no idea the Universal Fighting Board had any on it. Looks really cool and dramatic with the mirrored bottom and clear top.
Glamour shot of my new stick!
For anyone curious, this is the stuff I used:
- TEK Case Series 1B
- Brook Universal Fighting Board PCB
- Hori Hayabusa joystick
- Sanwa Denshi OBS series push buttons (30mm and 24mm)
- Neutrik USB pass-through
Got all of the grounding wires in place for the start, select/back, home and all eight buttons in place.
Measured, cut, crimped and attached all of the signal wires, mounted the PCB and put the bottom frame piece back on.
Top view after I put the mirrored bottom back on. I'm actually really pleased with the look, wire jungle and all. Looks like 80's high tech! The silver USB cable inside was kind of a happy accident. We recently got a wireless printer so I didn't need the cable for my desktop computer anymore.
Plugged it into my 360 and was pleasantly surprised by the blue LED. I had no idea the Universal Fighting Board had any on it. Looks really cool and dramatic with the mirrored bottom and clear top.
Glamour shot of my new stick!
For anyone curious, this is the stuff I used:
- TEK Case Series 1B
- Brook Universal Fighting Board PCB
- Hori Hayabusa joystick
- Sanwa Denshi OBS series push buttons (30mm and 24mm)
- Neutrik USB pass-through
Hellshingu
Member
Good stuff man. Really like how it turned out. How many hours of work did you put into it?
Rabid Dwarf 76
Member
Looks awesome! Well done.
bumpkin
Member
When all was said and done, I'd say 3-4 hours. Assembling the case was a little tricky, I was being very careful with it. And things were really slow-going while I got the hang of the wiring work. They picked up after that though.
Thanks!
I got the weight slots with the TEK case, but I haven't decided if I want to use them or not. I left them out because things inside are a little hectic, lots of space being eaten up by wires. I want to eventually wrap them in something like that flex tube I've seen in a few custom sticks. The stick has some decent weight to it as it is without them though. It's a little lighter than my MadCatz Fightstick TE.
I bought the same case and installed a brook Universal in it as well, will post pics tomorrow. Its a nice case but a tight squeeze inside for wires.
Speaking of wires what is the name of the wire covers I see ppl using and the size of them? They use it to cover the wires for a cleaner look and protection I assume?
bumpkin
Member
The only places that felt like a tight fit were the front buttons, especially if I added the weight slots. I left them out for now because of the space concerns. It didn't help that I never found a super short USB cable to run from the PCB to the Neutrik port. Ended up using an old one I had lying around that I had to zip tie into a loop.
I'm interested in sheathing them mostly for a cleaner look, but I could see it also having a protective effect as well.
moltonasty
Member
Hey all, can anyone suggest some reputable stick modders in the US? I've had no luck with the few contacts I've tried for the mods I want. Much appreciated.
ShadowSoldier89
Member
Gummo
notworksafe
Member
Gummo from gummowned.com and Victor from vickomods.com
.No, I mean taking the top of the button out so that you can wipe the plunger and the button independently.
That's probably why they're sticking, it doesn't sound like you're all up in those guts. If you take the button out of the stick, you'll see two, like...snappy things, that'll let you take the "button" out, so that you can clean the inside of the plunger and the side of the button. I don't know technical terms, and not near a button so can't take pictures...sorry if that's super unclear, because I feel like it is. lol
Hellshingu
Member
They use the same parts so you are most likely feeling the difference between the cases. The TE2+ feels a little different because it opens up.it doesn't feel as "solid" in my opinion if you understand what I mean.
I understand. Would switching the buttons out help or is it the case itself?
moltonasty
Member
Thank you kindly.
Hopefully it works out, I'd like to get a brooks universal board installed plus a separate db15 out for neogeo and supeguns. But I'm afraid I may go bankrupt on the road o arcade stick glory.
ShadowSoldier89
Member
if it was just the brooks universal I would suggest doing it yourself. Its surprisingly easy, and the only tools you need are a small flat head and a wire stripper
hikarutilmitt
Member
So I want to put a Brook's universal pcb in my Hori RAP 3. This one:
Could anyone point me in the direction of a guide to help me connect the wires properly? I have no idea where the wires for the little switches or the start/select and player 1234 LED wires go. This is my first pcb swap and I really don't want to screw this up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Edit: Also how do I mount the pcb in the case? The old one was shorter than the Brook's pcb so the screws don't line up.
To be honest, I have a V3 Kai I'm going to be modding that is just the Kai version of this. My plan has been to put a UFB in it, so I've been meaning to hit the daughterboard with a multimeter to see if I can get the switches working like they already do, since I have the 2 rightmost buttons disconnected.
It shouldn't be hard since I'm almost certain the switches for the LR2/3 buttons and start/select are essentially just DPDT switches, but I'm not certain and need to get the readings. The LEDs won't be hard at all since they have spots on the UFB, though it will require soldering wires to the UFB itself. The touchpad key will be the same, unfortunately, but I'd rather solder 4-5 wires to get everything exactly right than 20+.
This does bring up a question for anyone who has a UFB already. Did Brook update the firmware so that the screw terminal for Select/Back acts as the touchpad button too or did they leave it as-is and I have to solder the thing in?
Hellshingu
Member
I think it is the case itself. Since there is a little flex to it depending on how much pressure you put on it and how roomy/empty it is inside it won't sound as "clicky". You could always switch out the buttons for gamerfingers that have mx switches if you want something more "clicky" as you can choose your tactile feedback on those. Just be aware that once they go in there's a good chance that they aren't coming out without something breaking lol.
https://www.focusattack.com/ and http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/ are the two go to sites for my arcade button needs.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
One more question. If I want to replace the decal on my Madcatz Fightstick Pro I just have Fedex print a vinyl sticker? Anything else I need? Like to get the existing artwork off?
EDIT - Focus attack has an awesome background/sound thing going on with their site. Love it.
EDIT 2 - How are these "Silent Push Buttons"?
EDIT - Focus attack has an awesome background/sound thing going on with their site. Love it.
EDIT 2 - How are these "Silent Push Buttons"?
ShadowSoldier89
Member
so, mad catz is now partnering its store with amazon. On one side it makes them look even more like they are dying, on the other, prime shipping?
might have to buy some bezels and side panels before they die.
I'm basically assuming that the LED board is never coming back, so now I'm trying to figure out plain white LED options for my buttons. Only one I see is KNsert, but I'm lazy and done want to solder that one...hrmmm
might have to buy some bezels and side panels before they die.
I'm basically assuming that the LED board is never coming back, so now I'm trying to figure out plain white LED options for my buttons. Only one I see is KNsert, but I'm lazy and done want to solder that one...hrmmm
Hellshingu
Member
Nice. I've been ordering all my sticks through Amazon the last year due to the MadCatz store never working well for me. Hopefully this means they will still be around in some capacity and can take advantage of the systems/processes that amazon has to offer.
Allforce
Member
Usually gotta pop the buttons out and remove whatever art is on there in the first place. There should be screw holes underneath that hold the surface onto the base of the stick.
Then it's just putting artwork on, laying the plexi over that, and replacing the buttons (and ball top, don't have to remove the joystick completely), and screwing it all back down.
So basically where you don't see screws before you will now see screws.
So my fightstick (Madcatz Fightstick Pro) already has the plexi glass and screws on it?
DeathByBacklog
Member
Wait. Did they kill thr Canadian Store also? Those LED boards were available on there. I was considering getting a couple but the Canadian store seems to be gone.
ShadowSoldier89
Member
shit...probably, i never thought to check there. Ive been waiting for them to come back in stock for months
ThatCrazyGuy
Member
Anybody ever had a problem with a PS3 to PS4 brook converter?
I can't even get it to register my DualShock3. I have updated the firmware.
Just wondering if there was something obvious I should be looking out for.
I can't even get it to register my DualShock3. I have updated the firmware.
Just wondering if there was something obvious I should be looking out for.
tiggerkiddo
Member
Didn't think I would like it but I'm settling in with the HRAP 4. Feels like a solid arcade stick. Had to replace the joystick and some of the buttons, not a fan of the hayabusa ones. Hopefully I can sell those and put some more of that money into the stick.
Yes that is my stick. Do I have to buy plexi glass?
If you want to change the art with something that is non-laminated, then you will have to buy plexiglass.
You can buy some here: http://tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=15&subcat=&item=164
Otherwise, you are fine with the default stick.
I hate being an announce by asking all these questions, but what do you mean by "non-laminated".
Also just how do I install the plexiglass if there are no screw holes?
I mean stick art without laminated paper covering it up. It just another way to cover stick art. I'm not an expert in using laminated paper or stick art for that matter. I just buy plexiglass for my stick from the site that I posted.
The holes are there. You have to remove the current stick-art off completely to see them.
This video might help you:
https://youtu.be/ZtPrVPXnqrI?t=782
So I unscrew those visible grew screws, put the sticker on top of it, and then put the new screws on top of the screws when I use the pleiglass?