Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

Got in the Gamerfinger optical joystick PCB and Brook Universal for my Chun TE-S. Now to figure out how to wire it all up and include the Remora/ArcEye setup too. Art has already been ordered from Art (lol). Excited to get this working and show it off!
Brook should help make things pretty easy, helps having VCC on a screw terminal. I'm still debating how I'm going to do things on my TE2
 
Can anyone help me out with turning my Chun Li TE2 into the Persona 4 Ulitmax TE? I'm looking for the art used and all I can find is the shadow transfermation version of the art. Does anyone have a link they used on theirs or is anyone able to do a commission for it? Just let me know what I would need to do please.

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Can anyone help me out with turning my Chun Li TE2 into the Persona 4 Ulitmax TE? I'm looking to art used and all I can find is the shadow transfermation version of the art. Does anyone have a link they used on theirs or is anyone able to do a commission for it? Just let me know what I would need to do please.

Original art is not available. You have find someone to make it.
 
Did you ever figure out if there was a way to use the Remora on the TE2 or are you gonna just go with the MadCatz solution?
I haven't decided what I'm going to do exactly, though if I go for a lightshow RGB setup I'm going to go with paradise arcade's Kaimana. My LED balltop will come in this week and thats when I'm really going to start looking into it. I'm losing faith that mad catz is ever going to bring back their board..which is unfortunate. 20 bucks for a simple white LED board was a great deal

EDIT: NVM realized that was the shadow one
 
If someone could help me out, I'd appreciate it.

I have my sights set on a Seimitsu LS-56-01 to replace the stock Sanwa in my Madcatz TE stick. This is the one that came out around when SFIV launched.

The issue is that I'm not sure if I'll need an MS mounting plate or an SS P40. I'm leaning towards the SS P40 from a video I saw on Youtube but I'd like a second opinion before I pull the trigger.

I'm also assuming I won't need to buy a new stick harness. I read online where someone said that they simply flipped it around to fit their Seimitsu LS-56-01.
 
One of the buttons on my MadCatz Fightstick Pro isn't registering anymore in games or in Joy2Key. Do I have to buy a whole new button or do I just open up the stick and see if something came loose?
 
Got a Seimetsu LS-62-01 today.



It does end up being short as advertised, but not short enough I can't hold it wineglass (I do have small hands though). It is certainly interesting.

i play wineglass-ish as well, and its kind of a cramped fit imo, but i have bigger hands i guess. but yeah the ls-62 feels, interesting.

balltop needs to be smaller imo.
 
If someone could help me out, I'd appreciate it.

I have my sights set on a Seimitsu LS-56-01 to replace the stock Sanwa in my Madcatz TE stick. This is the one that came out around when SFIV launched.

The issue is that I'm not sure if I'll need an MS mounting plate or an SS P40. I'm leaning towards the SS P40 from a video I saw on Youtube but I'd like a second opinion before I pull the trigger.

I'm also assuming I won't need to buy a new stick harness. I read online where someone said that they simply flipped it around to fit their Seimitsu LS-56-01.

I've not tried fitting that stick onto that bracket with that specific mounting plate before, but I'm pretty sure that using the stepped SS plate will result in the stick sitting 3-4mm higher than its supposed to, whereas using the flat plate should be about standard height. I actually like the slightly longer exposed shaft, but that's just me. Probably depend on how you hold your stick and what kind of top you use.

If you go for the flat plate instead, double-check that a SE-P40 won't work instead of the MS plate. I think I've mounted a 56 on an MS plate into one of the old SE sticks Madcatz released around the time of that TE, and I'm thinking I had to mount it in the sideways position and remove the PCB on the stick so I could rotate it 90degrees into the correct directional position. If the SE will line up with the Sanwa holes, it would save you that effort.

And, yeah, the Seimitsu -01 sticks with the 5-pin harness are basically just wired in the opposite direction to Sanwa, so flipping the 5-pin connector upside down should do the job.
 
TechGAF, I'm looking for some help (or consolation if there is nothing to do about it... JK about the latter.): My friend and I purchased 2 Hori Fighting Commander 4s a couple of weeks ago and his controller just stopped working yesterday when he plugged it in to his PS4. Did it just die? Sending it to warranty will cost a lot more than ordering a new one from Amazon because we're outside the U.S.

I've been looking online to see if anyone else has had the same problem for a possible fix to no avail. Has anyone with this controller had issues? I feel bad for recommending this controller to him now. ༼ つ ಥ_ಥ ༽つ
 
TechGAF, I'm looking for some help (or consolation if there is nothing to do about it... JK about the latter.): My friend and I purchased 2 Hori Fighting Commander 4s a couple of weeks ago and his controller just stopped working yesterday when he plugged it in to his PS4. Did it just die? Sending it to warranty will cost a lot more than ordering a new one from Amazon because we're outside the U.S.

I've been looking online to see if anyone else has had the same problem for a possible fix to no avail. Has anyone with this controller had issues? I feel bad for recommending this controller to him now. ༼ つ ಥ_ಥ ༽つ

Have you tried plugging it into PC to see if it recognizes the controller?

Made sure it's in PS4 mode?

That sucks if it's messed up. I haven't heard of them spontaneously breaking like that. :(
 
This was the culprit. I stuck it back in and now it works. Do I have to do anything else like solder it? Or will it be fine?

I've found that once they come loose once, it can happen frequently. I wouldn't solder it unless you're not planning on switching your buttons out, though. Just be aware and remember to check the button frequently between sessions.
 
Does anyone know what the heck happened to Eightarc? Are they dead? Their store has had everything out of stock for I think months now, and AFAIK they've said nothing about PS4/XBO sticks which seems really weird. I always really liked the Ebony/Ivory line and I'd consider getting a PS4 version if there was one.
 
Does anyone know what the heck happened to Eightarc? Are they dead? Their store has had everything out of stock for I think months now, and AFAIK they've said nothing about PS4/XBO sticks which seems really weird. I always really liked the Ebony/Ivory line and I'd consider getting a PS4 version if there was one.

Wasn't Eightarc essentially Quanba under a different name? I'd imagine Quanba put the kibosh on them.
 
I've not tried fitting that stick onto that bracket with that specific mounting plate before, but I'm pretty sure that using the stepped SS plate will result in the stick sitting 3-4mm higher than its supposed to, whereas using the flat plate should be about standard height. I actually like the slightly longer exposed shaft, but that's just me. Probably depend on how you hold your stick and what kind of top you use.

If you go for the flat plate instead, double-check that a SE-P40 won't work instead of the MS plate. I think I've mounted a 56 on an MS plate into one of the old SE sticks Madcatz released around the time of that TE, and I'm thinking I had to mount it in the sideways position and remove the PCB on the stick so I could rotate it 90degrees into the correct directional position. If the SE will line up with the Sanwa holes, it would save you that effort.

And, yeah, the Seimitsu -01 sticks with the 5-pin harness are basically just wired in the opposite direction to Sanwa, so flipping the 5-pin connector upside down should do the job.
Thanks so much for your help. I'll look into SE-P40.

Since you asked, right now I have the stock ball top but I'm thinking of going with a bat for the new stick.
 
Now that madcatz is on the verge of going out business time for hori to take over the arcade stick market like the pre sf4 era. I really hope Hori includes sanwa in their sticks instead of hayabusa. Because if in the future madcatz does become extinct and hori is the only good arcade stick option then most people will have to go through the extra cost and labor of purchasing sanwa buttons and installing them. Given that the new hori sticks will be modding friendly.
 
Hayabusa buttons are a good replacement for sanwa and I personally like the hayabusa stick way more than a sanwa. They'll be fine just need more color options on the buttons.
 
Hayabusa buttons are a good replacement for sanwa and I personally like the hayabusa stick way more than a sanwa. They'll be fine just need more color options on the buttons.

Yup. And if anything, they'll do Sanwa or Seimitsu editions probably.

Edit: And get on the LS-40 when you can!
 
Have you tried plugging it into PC to see if it recognizes the controller?

Made sure it's in PS4 mode?

That sucks if it's messed up. I haven't heard of them spontaneously breaking like that. :(

Tríed PS3 mode, PS4 mode, several times and several combinations even. I plugged it in to my PC and Windows comes up with the yellow warning sign: "Windows can't recognize this device". The other pad is still working correctly.
 
Seeing the render of the potential KOF stick makes me want to mod my HRAP4 Kai with some art so it looks like one of those old school Neo-Geo cabinets.
 
So I bought a new Happ stick for an old Supernova case and I couldn't hit the diagonals all of the time. The problem seemed to be that the shaft was hitting the edge of hole for the shaft and the actuator couldn't hit two switches at a time. I know you can flip the actuator to make it turn the stick into 4-way mode, but that wasn't the problem I was having. So I needed to make the hole in the case bigger, or make the actuator wider so that it can hit two switches at a time.
qqWdyP3.jpg

That's when I remembered I had a 3d printer that I don't use enough. The one of the left is the original actuator and the one on the right is that wider one I printed.
CTg2zHT.jpg

The first cylinder came out too wide but the second one came out perfect. The stick is now working great and now I'm spamming those fireballs like a real Ryu player :-)
 
So I bought a new Happ stick for an old Supernova case and I couldn't hit the diagonals all of the time. The problem seemed to be that the shaft was hitting the edge of hole for the shaft and the actuator couldn't hit two switches at a time. I know you can flip the actuator to make it turn the stick into 4-way mode, but that wasn't the problem I was having. So I needed to make the hole in the case bigger, or make the actuator wider so that it can hit two switches at a time.
qqWdyP3.jpg

That's when I remembered I had a 3d printer that I don't use enough. The one of the left is the original actuator and the one on the right is that wider one I printed.
CTg2zHT.jpg

The first cylinder came out too wide but the second one came out perfect. The stick is now working great and now I'm spamming those fireballs like a real Ryu player :-)

Nice!
 
Got my TEK Case from Art's site in the mail today. After dinner I cracked the box open and started to work on building my stick. This is actually my first ever from-scratch fight stick build. I've done minor mods before, I actually replaced buttons and the joystick in my MadCatz SFIV stick a year or two ago, but nothing that is starting from a pile of parts. To save a few bucks, I'm going to be doing all of the wiring myself (stripping wires and crimping disconnects), so I expect it to be quite the learning experience!

Anyways, just thought I'd share some photos from phase 1...

Fresh out of the box... Pretty impressed with how extensively Art packed it.


The skeleton assembled with a placement check for my PCB. I was trying to gauge where best to mount it inside of the case as not to bump into the joystick.


The push buttons mounted into the top plate, decided to match the first four/left colors with the XB1 controller buttons.


All buttons and stick in place, just without any wiring as of yet.


Tomorrow night I'm going to start diving into the wiring. Should be fun!
 
Speaking of Seimitsu, the LS-40 is the SHIT!! Loving it to death.
Yeah, I swapped out the LS-32 that was in my EX-SE for an LS-40 a while ago. I think it feels much better.
I assume the way to go with the LS-40 is to remove the restrictor gate completely? I found the 8-way (I think that's what it was?) felt too weird, but without anything on there (just using the white base plastic...thing) feels perfect.

I assume there's not much else that can be done to it to make it much better?
 
Speaking of Seimitsu, the LS-40 is the SHIT!! Loving it to death.

Yeah, I swapped out the LS-32 that was in my EX-SE for an LS-40 a while ago. I think it feels much better.

I assume the way to go with the LS-40 is to remove the restrictor gate completely? I found the 8-way (I think that's what it was?) felt too weird, but without anything on there (just using the white base plastic...thing) feels perfect.

I assume there's not much else that can be done to it to make it much better?
so much LS-40 love, whoo.

For mechanical improvements, there's removing the restrictor plate and adjusting the stick height using different mounting plates. The LS-40 is so good that things like changing the spring or actuator are just plain unnecessary imo.
Visually, we have the full Seimitsu set of shaft covers and dust covers, which is a nice advantage over the LS-32.
 
so much LS-40 love, whoo.

For mechanical improvements, there's removing the restrictor plate and adjusting the stick height using different mounting plates. The LS-40 is so good that things like changing the spring or actuator are just plain unnecessary imo.
Visually, we have the full Seimitsu set of shaft covers and dust covers, which is a nice advantage over the LS-32.
Already have the green shaft/dust cover, but put the Venom factory ones of both back on as I was looking to replicate the tried-and-true scheme of the Astro City, and the only way I could get the green balltop without paying extra was to go all-green. Glad to know there's not much more needed to make it any better though, am already really happy with it as it is.
 
Already have the green shaft/dust cover, but put the Venom factory ones of both back on as I was looking to replicate the tried-and-true scheme of the Astro City, and the only way I could get the green balltop without paying extra was to go all-green. Glad to know there's not much more needed to make it any better though, am already really happy with it as it is.
wait you can put the V2/Venom's shaft cover on the LS-40? It doesn't rattle or anything?
 
Speaking of Seimitsu, the LS-40 is the SHIT!! Loving it to death.

Yeah, I swapped out the LS-32 that was in my EX-SE for an LS-40 a while ago. I think it feels much better.

I assume the way to go with the LS-40 is to remove the restrictor gate completely? I found the 8-way (I think that's what it was?) felt too weird, but without anything on there (just using the white base plastic...thing) feels perfect.

I assume there's not much else that can be done to it to make it much better?

so much LS-40 love, whoo.

For mechanical improvements, there's removing the restrictor plate and adjusting the stick height using different mounting plates. The LS-40 is so good that things like changing the spring or actuator are just plain unnecessary imo.
Visually, we have the full Seimitsu set of shaft covers and dust covers, which is a nice advantage over the LS-32.

I'm tossing between the LS-40 and the LS-56 for my brawl stick. Does the LS-40 allow you to ride the gates smoothly when doing circular motions? Or will I feel every clunk in the corners like the sanwas?
 
I'm tossing between the LS-40 and the LS-56 for my brawl stick. Does the LS-40 allow you to ride the gates smoothly when doing circular motions? Or will I feel every clunk in the corners like the sanwas?
What do you mean by "clunk in the corner?"
The JLF and LS-40 both use square gates; if you ride the gate hard then you'll hit the corner hard. If you avoid the corners and do a circular motion within the square, you might hit the edges of the square but can otherwise do circles really smoothly.
I tried intentionally riding the gate with the LS-40, and it's doable but imo doesn't feel good compared to just doing a circle within the gate.
 
Wasn't Eightarc essentially Quanba under a different name? I'd imagine Quanba put the kibosh on them.

Qanba in general seems to be really dropping the ball this gen. Their PS3/360 sticks were great but they still don't have a native PS4 stick. I guess Eightarc disappearing probably has something to do with that.

It's kind of a shame. It would be really nice to see more real competition to Hori and Mad Catz.
 
What do you mean by "clunk in the corner?"
The JLF and LS-40 both use square gates; if you ride the gate hard then you'll hit the corner hard. If you avoid the corners and do a circular motion within the square, you might hit the edges of the square but can otherwise do circles really smoothly.
I tried intentionally riding the gate with the LS-40, and it's doable but imo doesn't feel good compared to just doing a circle within the gate.

Yeah, the LS-40 has a very short engage, so there is no reason to ride the gate at all. Just a flick of the wrist and you're good. So really, it comes down to preference. If you like precision, the LS-40 is great. I've seen complaints about inadvertent jumps on the LS-40 due to the short engage but it's never been an issue for me.
 
All the LS-40 love brings a tear to my eye. I've grown to prefer the Hayabusa, but the LS-40 is my very very close second go-to stick. So much prefer it over the LS-32 it's not even funny.

I've actually been debating if I wanted to keep my HRAP4Kais with Hayabusa and put the LS-40 into my HRAPv3Kai or make all 3 of them Hayabusa. I need some consistency, though, so I may keep them all Hayabusa, but the allure of using the LS-40 on shmups when I put a UFB into it is too real.
 
Damn, I'm going to have to try a ls-40 soon. I like the ls-32 but not that much. Maybe because the stick its in is way lighter than my preferred stick.

Does anyone know of any matte buttons? I really want something with more resistance than sanwa that's matte. I know of the new hori buttons but no clue where to get them. flat would be a nice bonus but concave is fine too.
 
All the LS-40 love brings a tear to my eye. I've grown to prefer the Hayabusa, but the LS-40 is my very very close second go-to stick. So much prefer it over the LS-32 it's not even funny.

I've actually been debating if I wanted to keep my HRAP4Kais with Hayabusa and put the LS-40 into my HRAPv3Kai or make all 3 of them Hayabusa. I need some consistency, though, so I may keep them all Hayabusa, but the allure of using the LS-40 on shmups when I put a UFB into it is too real.

heh I've gone the opposite route: the Hayabusa was my favorite until I decided to try the LS-40 after reading up on it. And yeah, I much, much prefer it over the LS-32. I also may get another HRAP Kai and actually put in an LS-40, since I already have another Hayabusa in my FightStick Pro. Gotta balance my options!!

LS-40 with Hayabusa buttons sounds dope to me.

Edit: On Matte buttons--Arcade Shock had the Hayabusas in stock at one point but are sold out. Maybe you can email them and see if they can get their hands on another set?
 
So my Mad Catz TE2 (Persona art) arcade stick just randomly stopped working. The micro switches on the left plane stopped registering inputs. Something like this has happened before but it started working again after a restart. Not this time. This happen to anyone before? Its not even a year old.

Any ideas?
 
So my TE2+ has decided to stop working in most my games on PS4. It works fine on the home screens and when choosing options but doesn't work in games itself half the time. Tried it on 3S on PS3 and I could use the x button to navigate menus but when I got in game it didn't work anymore.

Any ideas?

Seems that it is holding down the 3 kick button at all times (L2) I wonder what is causing it. Unplugged them from the button and it is still registering. Guess I have to get a replacement PCB. Is MadCatz good about this even though I bought it from Amazon?
 
Got my TEK Case from Art's site in the mail today. After dinner I cracked the box open and started to work on building my stick. This is actually my first ever from-scratch fight stick build. I've done minor mods before, I actually replaced buttons and the joystick in my MadCatz SFIV stick a year or two ago, but nothing that is starting from a pile of parts. To save a few bucks, I'm going to be doing all of the wiring myself (stripping wires and crimping disconnects), so I expect it to be quite the learning experience!

Anyways, just thought I'd share some photos from phase 1...

Fresh out of the box... Pretty impressed with how extensively Art packed it.



The skeleton assembled with a placement check for my PCB. I was trying to gauge where best to mount it inside of the case as not to bump into the joystick.



The push buttons mounted into the top plate, decided to match the first four/left colors with the XB1 controller buttons.



All buttons and stick in place, just without any wiring as of yet.



Tomorrow night I'm going to start diving into the wiring. Should be fun!

I really liked my TEK Case. I dropped it on the corner of my desk and caved-in the buttons because I'm an idiot.

Maybe it was just me when I put it together but after a little under a year one of the "corner struts" stripped. I think I caused it over time by picking the stick up by the ledge on the sides instead of from the very bottom of the case.

I still have it sitting around here and never got to post a pic because I forgot. I plan on buying a Pro case to drop everything in it.
 
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