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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II
- Thread starter MRORANGE
- Start date
JadedWriter
Member
Cause they're cheap and it'd only be on "pro" bodies. "You filthy casuals don't need to change settings in the dark."Why doesn't every camera have this...
RipperGrim
Member
Sony finally releasing a Lens you can use for wildlife and outdoor sports. The biggest reason why I haven't thought of going to them.
;_;
I shot some night photography on a Nikon D5200 and kept hitting the wrong buttons when I wanted to change the exposure or enable the self timer.
JadedWriter
Member
From what I know only the D4, D4s, D5 and D500 have illuminated buttons.
Have you checked across different lenses? Though I do think cameras as whole just have difficulty focusing on things on walls. My D810 with my Sigma 70-200 couldn't focus on the plain white wall in my room.
AF needs contrast to be able to AF. Are you sure it's not within the limits of AF?
JadedWriter
Member
Explains why my AF goes "There's nothing here" when I point it at my wall but then goes on to recognize my light switch, which is white, but a different enough shade of white to be seen.
pfft neither my d800e or d500 do that.
JadedWriter
Member
I thought the D500 got illuminated buttons. It didn't? Lol. My D810 doesn't even have those.
TerryLee81
Member
For some reason I thought it was supposed to work even on black surfaces lol. I guess it's working fine then.
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
I believe most autofocus solutions require vertical contrast as well.
JadedWriter
Member
That's exactly what I thought was the case I have not looked into the D500 in a bit but it makes sense. I honestly don't know why everything post D4 didn't have that feature.They do light up on the D500 if you activate the top lcd illumination:
You've said yourself that you can operate your camera blind, so how useful do you really think light up buttons are? Once you use any camera for a few weeks button placement becomes second nature, regardless of brand.
Astral/H3X
Member
I don't need no stinkin light up panel, I have an EVF.
JadedWriter
Member
If I had to switch between CH and Mirror Up it'd be a bit of a an issue. It's mostly the stuff that I don't change too often regarding stuff like that that would be a bit of a problem. I've shot in low lit events decent enough so yes not having light up buttons is something I can live with.
jongkookie
Member
Anybody have any thoughts on TLR cameras?
A buddy of mine is planning to sell his Yashica LM and I'm sorta curious lol. I probably wouldn't have any proper uses for it but it seems quite interesting.
A buddy of mine is planning to sell his Yashica LM and I'm sorta curious lol. I probably wouldn't have any proper uses for it but it seems quite interesting.
I have a Rolleicord TLR which I use occasionally and quite like. If you've already got a proper medium-format SLR system I wouldn't buy a TLR for anything other than looking nice on a shelf, but if it's your first medium-format camera then it can be a good (and relatively inexpensive) way to get into medium-format photography. For an 80 year old camera I paid only about 50 for, I'm constantly surprised by the quality I can get from my Rolleicord.
Joel Was Right
Member
I really need that Fuji 56mm glass to come down in price. Christ, these things will be selling for £600 a generation from now.
How are you going to get any images in pitch black without any external lighting?
Why doesn't every camera have this...
How are you going to get any images in pitch black without any external lighting?
Once a version II comes they'll come down, lol'
I've got a Rolleiflex RF111A Automat from the mid-30's. It's one of a few MF cameras I have. I love it as it's a different way to shoot.
JadedWriter
Member
It depends on how the event is lighted. An event can be front lighted in the stage area whereas the back or crowd area can have no lighting whatsoever. Most places don't care about the crowd so they pay more attention to the stage area where the attention is drawn. As a photographer you're usually in the back or on the side or in a pit area where there is no light but you can photograph the staging area and get usable shots. Stupid events like cocktail dinners are a cluster fuck though.
Vulcano's assistant
Banned
Don't forget when you have to take pics of a cheating espouse and you are just hiding in the bushes.
Long exposure on a tripod.
I tried to capture some aurora and kept missing the button for self-timer and constantly mixed the playback and menu buttons which were close to each other.
JadedWriter
Member
Just spray and pray like the Paparazzi do.
jongkookie
Member
Thanks for the impressions.
He was gonna sell it to me for the cheap but one of his other friends offered to buy it off him for $150 bucks just coz the light meter was still working lol. He asked me first though and I'm not really one to deny somebody extra profit so I let it go.
But he's selling me his Super Ricohflex that he fixed up about a month ago... this one the light meter isn't working but both the viewing and taking lenses are aligned and everything looks to be in good condition. I should be getting it sometime this week once he comes back from a trip so hopefully, I'll have a roll developed soon.
Elfotografoalocado
Banned
I'm planning on having the Lightroom catalog on the internal SSD with smart previews, then select originals on an external SSD, then all the originals on an external HDD as a backup.
I have a large server (32tb usable) that has a LUN carved out for my photography, it then gets backed up to crash plan.
How does smart previews work?
Light meters, while convenient aren't that necessary, and if you really want to, then get a handheld meter to put into your kit. Between that, and the Sunny 16 it's easy enough to get going.
yeah, I use my iphone but I'll be getting a dedicated light meter soon.
jongkookie
Member
Oh yeah for sure. I actually use my A7 as my light meter when I'm shooting with my EL2 coz while the meter works, I feel like it's off by a little bit. Only my N8008 has a reliable light meter, but that's mostly because it uses 7 AA batteries or something like that.
I do have a free light meter app on my iPhone but it's got too much ads so I need to find another one or pay for it.
yeah, I just paid for one. Cheap and works in a quick fix, but I need something more dedicated. Though, really shooting without a meter comes to be second nature after some experimenting and experience so you'll be fine.
JadedWriter
Member
I'm going through my model photos from yesterday where I used my Tamron 70-200 G2...I shoot stupid close and I'm not really having a problem with it so how close are these people shooting with these lenses to facilitate massive focus breathing outcry? I actually think this thing focuses closer than my Sigma 70-200 did.
I usually take a test exposure with my phone. They will have funky numbers a lot of the time like 1/1333s, ISO 700 and f2.2, but I shoot negatives most of the time so I don't care that much about half a stop and they give me a rough idea of where the highlights and shadows will fall. My phone doesn't shoot HDR in auto tho (newer ones do).
My preferred method tho is using the spot meter if my camera has one. Does the app you used have a good spot feature?
i dont recall, been on a windows phone and android for the last few years.
but i could set my desired iso and f stop which is what i would do, and it would give me a shutter in pretty normal stops.
outunderthestars
Banned
Finally about to pull the trigger on a camera. 85% sure on a Sony A6300. have about $1000 to spend.
Goals for the camera:
I am drawn to this camera because of the above average auto focus abilities, mic input, larger sensor, and slight weatherproofing they have done.
Concerns:
Kit lens seems to not get great reviews. no in-body image stabilization. no touch screen for manual focus point adjustments, Reports of overheating.
Also considering Lumix GX85, or the A6000
If i went with the A6300 and wanted to invest in a good zoom lens and a good lens for macro photos, what would you suggest? How is the Sony kit 55-210mm Power Zoom Lens?
Thank you for taking the time to read my rambling mess of a question.
Goals for the camera:
Take photos of baby
Take videos in 4K for futureproofing
Nature photos
macro photos at night (moths and other insects)
I am drawn to this camera because of the above average auto focus abilities, mic input, larger sensor, and slight weatherproofing they have done.
Concerns:
Kit lens seems to not get great reviews. no in-body image stabilization. no touch screen for manual focus point adjustments, Reports of overheating.
Also considering Lumix GX85, or the A6000
If i went with the A6300 and wanted to invest in a good zoom lens and a good lens for macro photos, what would you suggest? How is the Sony kit 55-210mm Power Zoom Lens?
Thank you for taking the time to read my rambling mess of a question.
JadedWriter
Member
You should try looking at the Panasonic G85.Finally about to pull the trigger on a camera. 85% sure on a Sony A6300. have about $1000 to spend.
Goals for the camera:
Take photos of baby
Take videos in 4K for futureproofing
Nature photos
macro photos at night (moths and other insects)
I am drawn to this camera because of the above average auto focus abilities, mic input, larger sensor, and slight weatherproofing they have done.
Concerns:
Kit lens seems to not get great reviews. no in-body image stabilization. no touch screen for manual focus point adjustments, Reports of overheating.
Also considering Lumix GX85, or the A6000
If i went with the A6300 and wanted to invest in a good zoom lens and a good lens for macro photos, what would you suggest? How is the Sony kit 55-210mm Power Zoom Lens?
Thank you for taking the time to read my rambling mess of a question.
I loaded my Pentax yesterday, but didn't go out shooting. Now I see the framecounter is at like 17 because I didn't open the door all the way...
Ah, mechanical film cameras
I fixed it by going into the darkest room I have and opening it. Hopefully I didn't got the first few frames. I like maximizing the amount of frames I get so I close the door after putting the leader into the takeup spool. This camera is easy to load (never lost the leader on the takeup spool) and has a film movement indicator.
Ah, mechanical film cameras
I fixed it by going into the darkest room I have and opening it. Hopefully I didn't got the first few frames. I like maximizing the amount of frames I get so I close the door after putting the leader into the takeup spool. This camera is easy to load (never lost the leader on the takeup spool) and has a film movement indicator.
Astral/H3X
Member
He wants to do Macro -- I would heavily NOT recommend any M4/3rds platform. You need all the light and low noise you can get.
If Macro is your thing I would ABSOLUTELY go with the A6300, particularly over the A6000, for a few key reasons -- First, the A6300 has a FAR superior EVF to the A6000, most notably in terms of response. When shooting macro, you're essentially shooting and framing in very little light, and the A6000's EVF didn't respond well to this (nor do most EVFs or even OVFs for that matter). The A6300 has, from what I hear, a much improved EVF. Indeed, even on the A7II, the improvements are massive, and the A6300 is an improvement even over that.
Secondly, the sensor on the A6300 is set up differently, such that it performs better at low light anyway. See point 1 for why this is important -- macro = no light.
As for what actual macro lens, I have two that I can vouch for, for different reasons. I use both the Canon FD 50mm 3.5 Macro with the 25mm Extension tube, and the Samyang/Rokinon 100mm f2.8 Macro.
The Canon is a bit "easier" to use, as it affords a bit more depth of field at a given aperture, which on a bug? Well you're going from 1/5th of its eye wide open to most of its eye wide open. However, needing an extension tube is quite annoying, since to go from macro to regular focus distances, you need to remove the tube. :/ Not a problem for dedicated macro shooting, but is a problem if you're just wandering around a forest or some such taking photos of whatever.
The Samyang is newer and sharper, has a longer focusing distance (meaning instead of rubbing a spider against your lens you can be a few inches away from it), and opens wider, but will be harder to focus due to a slightly less nice focus ring, and the 100mm DoF being teeeeeeeeny. Also costs like 5x more. BUT! Also doubles as an excellent portrait lens.
Personally, I've used the 50mm more for bugs and nature, and then the 100mm for my figure photos.
Here's some bugs.
20160512-20160512-DSC03458.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20160512-20160512-DSC03475.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
20160512-20160512-DSC03351.jpg by Hunter Mauro, on Flickr
Patient Predator by Hunter Mauro, on FlickrAll but the last one I believe were the 50mm.
I'll never pass up an opportunity to fill this thread with spiders.
I tested the 100mm STF GM and 85mm 1.8 the other day and I didn't find the 100GM special at all. Sure the bokeh balls are indeed smooth but for me its not worth loosing the speed and weight from other tele primes.
That 85 1.8 though, its pretty good. Kinda resembles with the Nikkor 85 1.8G for me.
That 85 1.8 though, its pretty good. Kinda resembles with the Nikkor 85 1.8G for me.
JadedWriter
Member
That makes more sense. I wasn't paying attention to his macro mention. I guess the sensor size isn't the best for stuff with that narrow of a depth of field. I think I just mentioned the Panasonic cause Panasonic cameras do video really well plus the IBIS. It's funny how there's no perfect camera. I'd use a G85 for basic daylight street photography, but I'd still probably never use it for portraits or night time stuff or even events.He wants to do Macro -- I would heavily NOT recommend any M4/3rds platform. You need all the light and low noise you can get.
If Macro is your thing I would ABSOLUTELY go with the A6300, particularly over the A6000, for a few key reasons -- First, the A6300 has a FAR superior EVF to the A6000, most notably in terms of response. When shooting macro, you're essentially shooting and framing in very little light, and the A6000's EVF didn't respond well to this (nor do most EVFs or even OVFs for that matter). The A6300 has, from what I hear, a much improved EVF. Indeed, even on the A7II, the improvements are massive, and the A6300 is an improvement even over that.
Secondly, the sensor on the A6300 is set up differently, such that it performs better at low light anyway. See point 1 for why this is important -- macro = no light.
As for what actual macro lens, I have two that I can vouch for, for different reasons. I use both the Canon FD 50mm 3.5 Macro with the 25mm Extension tube, and the Samyang/Rokinon 100mm f2.8 Macro.
The Canon is a bit "easier" to use, as it affords a bit more depth of field at a given aperture, which on a bug? Well you're going from 1/5th of its eye wide open to most of its eye wide open. However, needing an extension tube is quite annoying, since to go from macro to regular focus distances, you need to remove the tube. :/ Not a problem for dedicated macro shooting, but is a problem if you're just wandering around a forest or some such taking photos of whatever.
The Samyang is newer and sharper, has a longer focusing distance (meaning instead of rubbing a spider against your lens you can be a few inches away from it), and opens wider, but will be harder to focus due to a slightly less nice focus ring, and the 100mm DoF being teeeeeeeeny. Also costs like 5x more. BUT! Also doubles as an excellent portrait lens.
Personally, I've used the 50mm more for bugs and nature, and then the 100mm for my figure photos.
Here's some bugs.
All but the last one I believe were the 50mm.
I'll never pass up an opportunity to fill this thread with spiders.
He wants to do Macro -- I would heavily NOT recommend any M4/3rds platform. You need all the light and low noise you can get.
If Macro is your thing I would ABSOLUTELY go with the A6300, particularly over the A6000, for a few key reasons -- First, the A6300 has a FAR superior EVF to the A6000, most notably in terms of response. When shooting macro, you're essentially shooting and framing in very little light, and the A6000's EVF didn't respond well to this (nor do most EVFs or even OVFs for that matter). The A6300 has, from what I hear, a much improved EVF. Indeed, even on the A7II, the improvements are massive, and the A6300 is an improvement even over that.
Secondly, the sensor on the A6300 is set up differently, such that it performs better at low light anyway. See point 1 for why this is important -- macro = no light.
As for what actual macro lens, I have two that I can vouch for, for different reasons. I use both the Canon FD 50mm 3.5 Macro with the 25mm Extension tube, and the Samyang/Rokinon 100mm f2.8 Macro.
The Canon is a bit "easier" to use, as it affords a bit more depth of field at a given aperture, which on a bug? Well you're going from 1/5th of its eye wide open to most of its eye wide open. However, needing an extension tube is quite annoying, since to go from macro to regular focus distances, you need to remove the tube. :/ Not a problem for dedicated macro shooting, but is a problem if you're just wandering around a forest or some such taking photos of whatever.
The Samyang is newer and sharper, has a longer focusing distance (meaning instead of rubbing a spider against your lens you can be a few inches away from it), and opens wider, but will be harder to focus due to a slightly less nice focus ring, and the 100mm DoF being teeeeeeeeny. Also costs like 5x more. BUT! Also doubles as an excellent portrait lens.
Personally, I've used the 50mm more for bugs and nature, and then the 100mm for my figure photos.
Here's some bugs.
All but the last one I believe were the 50mm.
I'll never pass up an opportunity to fill this thread with spiders.
on the other hand, for macro on m4/3rds, at f4 you get the equivalent depth of field as f8 on full frame, which also is letting in more light and thus need less ISO.
Most camera systems today can do most everything pretty well, its all in knowing the equipment and knowing what you want to do. Some systems have more specialty lenses for certain things or better AF for faster moving objects.
reggieandTFE
Member
Just like Captive said, micro 4/3 crop giving you twice the DOF at equivalent apertures is actually a huge benefit for macro. Additionally, all the Olympus cameras and any of the Panasonic cameras from the last two years have IBIS, which will provide stabilized views that are incredibly helpful when using manual focus at high magnification.
JadedWriter
Member
Well shit...nice to know my G85 recommendation wasn't wrong. It probably will be what I get if I get a mirrorless camera since Fuji stuff is so damn expensive.
just get previous generation fuji gear and buy used. it's not that expensive.
JadedWriter
Member
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