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[DJ Sl4m]

http://www.circuitcity.com/detail.j...n.session.new=Yes&qp=0&ct=0&BV_UseBVCookie=No

This is too bad ass of a deal not to share, I'm sure theres a few people here who could use a new drive, esp at this price. (me included)

 

[Archaix]

Mail-in rebate?! You mentioned nothing of a mail-in rebate! Bah at you my good sir.

 

[DJ Sl4m]

Yea, but still........ $39.99 for 120 gigs.

It usually takes no more than 4 weeks to get your money back.

 

[xsarien]

If it was any place but Circuit City, I'd hit it. Their stores are on some borrowed fucking time, baiting and switching constantly.

 

[Ronald_mcd]

do you know if they ship to canada?

 

[xsarien]

do you know if they ship to canada?

"Not available for online purchase."

 

[nitewulf]

bah, im in the market for a new drive but mail in rebates suck.

 

[Wario64]

I dont think this HD fits in a PS2, darn.

 

[xsarien]

bah, im in the market for a new drive but mail in rebates suck.

They're slow, but they work.

 

[Ecrofirt]

OK, how does the mail-in rebate work?

Do you get cash back, or a check or something? Do you have to do something special in order to get the rebate? Something like subscribe to AOL or something like that?

Can someone please explain?

 

[Wario64]

Usually you have to send in your receipt/UPC bar code and a rebate form. Takes about a month to receive the rebate (usually in form of a check)

 

[Docpan]

Maxtor PLZ.


((((((((

 

[Cauliflower of Love]

It's two rebates $30 from CC and $50 from WD.

 

[Ecrofirt]

and you don't have to sign up for anything to get the rebate? Just send the reciept?

 

[xsarien]

and you don't have to sign up for anything to get the rebate? Just send the reciept?

That's how every rebate I've ever encountered works. Just follow the instructions on the form, which usually involve filling in your name and address, and stuffing the form, and a copy of the receipt and UPC into an envelope.

Sometimes they want the originals, but you can just make a copy for yourself.

 

[Ecrofirt]

so, so this brings up two more questions.

I went to newegg and looked up the model, and that brings up a new question. While looking at the model and other models, I noticed two different Interfaces:

Interface: IDE ULTRA ATA100
and
Interface: Serial ATA


What's the difference between these two? the drive in question is the IDE Ultra.

Also, will this drive fit inside an Xbox?

 

[xsarien]

Serial ATA is a new (relatively) drive interface standard. If you want to stuff this thing in an XBox, do not get that version.

 

[Nerevar]

They're slow, but they work.

Except when Brick and Mortar try and do on-line mail in rebates. They'll fuck you over any way they can.

 

[Ecrofirt]

OK, so let's say I wanted to get a Serial ATA for my PC. What do you need to have your PC support this?

I'd imagine it doesn't connect to the PC with an IDE cable.

Is it a faster system or something?

 

[xsarien]

Except when Brick and Mortar try and do on-line mail in rebates. They'll fuck you over any way they can.

I've always gotten a form printed out with my receipt, or - at worst - their word that the form was in the box.

What stores tell you to go online to get the form? And what's so bad about printing it out from your home if it's going to the same place?

OK, so let's say I wanted to get a Serial ATA for my PC. What do you need to have your PC support this?

I'd imagine it doesn't connect to the PC with an IDE cable.

Is it a faster system or something?

Unless you've built/purchased your computer in the past year or so, you'll need a seperate controller card for it, yes. (Check your motherboard's manual, if it has a Serial ATA interface, it'll say so.)

Right now they're not THAT much faster than regular ATA drives, but as the technology progresses, it will be a significant boost. Right now they're at ~150.

Also, the cables are nice and thin. You don't have to wrestle with the little bastards.

 

[Ecrofirt]

Except when Brick and Mortar try and do on-line mail in rebates. They'll fuck you over any way they can.

Care to explain? Is that the situation here?

 

[Scoobert]

Sorry, but this deal wins:

http://shop1.outpost.com/product/3700356

That's more than 50% off!

 

[Ecrofirt]

If you buy three of the circuit city deal, you've for 360 gigs as opposed to 260 gigs for the same price.

You tell me which deal is better.

 

[ChrisReid]

Rebates are always "one per household."

 

[MoxManiac]

Ewww...mail-in rebate.
Ewww!!!! Western Digital.

Thanks for nothing. >:

 

[Ecrofirt]

Rebates are always "one per household."

Oh please. Don't tell me you haven't found your way around that one by now.

 

[Friend]

Mail in rebates aren't bad if you're patient. If you truly want a great deal though, try to get CC to price match Fry's before rebate price (which is significantly lower). You'll get the hd for practically free. That's what they're doing on FW and slickdeals.

 

[Nerevar]

Care to explain? Is that the situation here?

I'm referring to trying to get a mail-in rebate processed from a store that's traditionally bricks and mortar (like circuit city or compUSA) when you order stuff directly from their online store. Their customer service departments aren't set up to deal with it, and on several occassions I've had rebates rejected because I didn't have an actual receipt. The on-line print out wasn't good enough. It's ridiculous, but it's "store policy"

 

[Ecrofirt]

Mail in rebates aren't bad if you're patient. If you truly want a great deal though, try to get CC to price match Fry's before rebate price (which is significantly lower). You'll get the hd for practically free. That's what they're doing on FW and slickdeals.

Got a link/picture of the Fry's ad?

Is it working for FW and slickdeals?

 

[Kwokuen]

I purchased this exact same drive (120 GB WD) at Outpost.com a few days ago. After installing the drive I left the jumpers (Both master and slave drives) on CS, and noticed really slow transfer times from hard drive to hard drive. The Shadow pointed out that the settings in device manager might've been the problem, an lo and behold, he was right. Changed them to automatically use DMA and rebooted. Problem was still there.

Went into my BIOS, and it claimed I didn't have a second drive installed. Switched the jumpers to master (60 GB) and slave (120 GB) and switched on auto detect for primary slave drives. It recognized the drive during bootup, and bam. STOP error (Blue screen) before Windows even boots up. The error says something along the lines that the boot volume is unreadable or corrupted. I can't even get to the command prompt before that bloody blue screen comes up. If possible, I'd like to salvage my music collection. Any options outside of reformatting?

Edit: BTW, I've since removed the 120GB drive, and have placed the jumpers in the Master drive back in the CS position. Reverted back to the original BIOS settings and the problem is still there.

 

[Manick Joe]

Just updating you guys that the sale runs out after Saturday. Oh, and our store was picked clean within 2 hours when that ad hit on Sunday. Even had a bunch of customers pestering me on the Saturday before to give it to them early. New shipments come in Friday morning/afternoon so call around if you want them, but not many are making it out until after the rebate. In the entire SE Pennslyvania region there's a whopping 3 available to purchase so good luck guys.

 

[aoi tsuki]

Ewww...mail-in rebate.
Ewww!!!! Western Digital.

Thanks for nothing. >:

What's with the WD hate? i've never had a problem with them, and i'm currently running two 120GB Maxtors (2MB cache ;( ) with no problems. As said in another thread, there's no perfect brand.

 

[Catzgirl]

dude, that's awesome I was just looking for a new HD too :rock