Fallout-NL
Member
Charge the battery and check tire pressure. Should be ok otherwise.
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2 wheel GAF UNITE!
- Thread starter Flo_Evans
- Start date
BriareosGAF
Member
I'd check the oil level and chain slack too since you're going to be poking around anyway.
Fallout-NL
Member
Thanks man
. Oh and I finally snapped a couple of pics of the translucent cover on the other bike. I'll see if I can upload them tomorrow.
Oh, I had forgotten. Alright, looking forward to it!Thanks man
Fallout-NL
Member
Thanks guys
2016 FZ-07 9k miles for $6800 otd. Non ABS but it's black (color I want), 2.5k cheaper than 2017 new abs version. It's through a dealer so they have a 60 day 'warranty' and they check the bike, chang e oil etc.
Should I check it out? Push to lower the price?\
I really want ABS but I'm starting to feel more than 7k is no go.
Should I check it out? Push to lower the price?\
I really want ABS but I'm starting to feel more than 7k is no go.
SatansReverence
Hipster Princess
You'll be fine without ABS. Just practice emergency stops in empty car parks.
Not sure if they told you about how to get the most out of your brakes during your lessons but the idea is to begin gently and than squeeze harder. Practice in the dry and wet and you'll quickly get a feel for appropriate brake pressure in a given situation. Team that with awareness of your surroundings so you can set up for braking earlier and you'll be fine.
Check oil/water if applicable. Lube the chain/check tension. Make sure no little rodents have set up in your airbox. Check air pressures. Maybe it's an american thing but you might want to drain and replace the fuel. This definitely isn't an issue here in Aus, fuel lasts years and still goes bang.
I got my first scooter and I haven't even really used it yet and I just discovered the Grom and I love watching this thing on youtube.
Fallout-NL
Member
Alright, as you can see, kinda hard to get a good picture of it, but here you go
You'll also notice the crack near the filler cap. Was filling it up a month or two ago when fuel spilled over that area (through no fault of my own, the filler fuel nozzle thing was damaged and leaking) - and I suspect - causing it to crack, due to temperature difference maybe? Bums me out
. But these covers are quite fragile, just sucks that it happened so soon. I might try to repair this somehow or just replace the cover with a carbon cover, hmm.Oh and you can see an open/empty area with a few missing bolts. That's where the actuator for the exhaust valve was located. But that was deleted when I replaced the stock exhaust.
Loving that translucent cover. Definitely something you couldn't get off a normal bike (though my old ST1100 also had a "fake" fuel tank!)
And I wouldn't get too hung up on the ABS issue, Ocho. The way I see it, if you're presented with two identical bikes and one has ABS, you'd be silly not to get it, but equally I wouldn't let the lack of it dissuade you from buying something.
And I wouldn't get too hung up on the ABS issue, Ocho. The way I see it, if you're presented with two identical bikes and one has ABS, you'd be silly not to get it, but equally I wouldn't let the lack of it dissuade you from buying something.
Alright, as you can see, kinda hard to get a good picture of it, but here you go
You'll also notice the crack near the filler cap. Was filling it up a month or two ago when fuel spilled over that area (through no fault of my own, the filler fuel nozzle thing was damaged and leaking) - and I suspect - causing it to crack, due to temperature difference maybe? Bums me out
Oh and you can see an open/empty area with a few missing bolts. That's where the actuator for the exhaust valve was located. But that was deleted when I replaced the stock exhaust.
Wow, that looks really good! Kinda hard to imagine that some fuel would do that. I did not notice the crack until you mentioned it. But yeah, it looks really nice. My opinion, no carbon fiber! This Buell stand out a lot this way.
But the decision is yours, of course.
Soooooo unexpected turn of events. After going out to some dealerships and checking new bikes, I got interested in adventure bikes since I feel like that would be my end goal, doing some long distance trips or better highway commute.
I found this craigslist post for a Suzuki 2007 Vstrom with 12k miles. Went today to check it out, everything was serviced recently and they inspected the usual stuff.
Decided used was the way to go, and I couldn't pass on this machine, it looks great, and sounded great (except I wasn't able to test drive it, cuz I have no license yet).
Liked the color, liked the windshield, the box, and the crash bars. The price was also 1/3 of what a new FZ07 would've costed me. They dropping the bike today, I'm getting my license tomorrow, and my gear should be here tuesday. Hopefully there are no glaring issues.
I found this craigslist post for a Suzuki 2007 Vstrom with 12k miles. Went today to check it out, everything was serviced recently and they inspected the usual stuff.
Decided used was the way to go, and I couldn't pass on this machine, it looks great, and sounded great (except I wasn't able to test drive it, cuz I have no license yet).
Liked the color, liked the windshield, the box, and the crash bars. The price was also 1/3 of what a new FZ07 would've costed me. They dropping the bike today, I'm getting my license tomorrow, and my gear should be here tuesday. Hopefully there are no glaring issues.
Fallout-NL
Member
I've been watching videos nonstop for days now... LOL. Totally obsessed with getting one now. Just trying to decide on buying new or used.
Was considering the SSR Razkull...really like that mini Ducati look much more than the Grom, but hesitated due to the lack of mods for that bike. I mod everything I own, so I get a boner looking at all the aftermarket parts avail for the Honda.
For a Japanese motorcycle, 12,000 miles on the odo is still a baby that is barely broken in. That's such a great find you've found yourself. Not only will you be able to ride in the pavement, but with some proper tires, you'll be able to take that bad boy off road a little. If you're into that, it's loads of fun.
Gromkhana https://youtu.be/Zb1JS4DljYo
I do have newb ownership questions:
Do I need to wait for the title transfer before I insure/ride this thing?
Any US insurance recommendations?
I'm looking for the owners manual online to learn how to take proper care of this bike. Anyone has a link to the must knows before I take a ride?
I don't know what wheels this bike has to know tire pressure hmm.
There was no setup done for me. What can I adapt so the bike fits better for me? Other than mirrors lol.
Do I need to run the bike every couple of days so the battery doesn't die? I might have to wait 1-2 weeks before I ride it.
Do I need to wait for the title transfer before I insure/ride this thing?
Any US insurance recommendations?
I'm looking for the owners manual online to learn how to take proper care of this bike. Anyone has a link to the must knows before I take a ride?
I don't know what wheels this bike has to know tire pressure hmm.
There was no setup done for me. What can I adapt so the bike fits better for me? Other than mirrors lol.
Do I need to run the bike every couple of days so the battery doesn't die? I might have to wait 1-2 weeks before I ride it.
I found some manuals from the UK owners club, might help
For regular daily ride checks, you should be checking the oil and brake fluid levels, checking your chain slack and cleaning/lubing it (this is important), and checking tyre wear/pressures.
Ought to be in the owners manual above, or get a workshop manual like a Haynes or US equivalent.
If your suspension is adjustable you can change that (though I am lazy and never bother unless its way too hard/soft). The seat might be adjustable but I suspect you'd need to buy an aftermarket for that. You can usually adjust the bars forward/backward on those by loosening where its attached at the headstock, but for road riding I've never bothered.
If your brake/clutch levers have a little round wheel or lever on them you can turn that to change how far you have to reach from the bars. It'll be numbered if you do have one
Look into and purchase an Optimate. Essentially a smart trickle charger that keeps your battery in working order. I consider it absolutely essential and always use one. You'll need to attach a cable directly to the bike battery and then hide it under the seat/cable tie it to the frame, then you can simply plug in when you put the bike away in the garage.
Fallout-NL
Member
If the bike isn't connected to a trickle charger, you can leave it for maybe 5 or 6 weeks at most before the battery starts to suffer. This depends on the strength of the battery of course. Bikes with small batteries might start to object even sooner. Not that much of a problem if it isn't a regular occurence (not starting it for a couple of weeks), but if it's normal for the bike to sit for extended periods of time, like Doug said, a trickle charger is pretty much essential if you don't want to have to buy a new battery every season.
Forgot to post here, but I was pretty happy this weekend to have finally gotten a knee down. Granted, was just going in circles in a parking lot, but I've been riding for 7 years, long been hanging off in turns but never had my position right so I always got to the edge of the tire before getting my knee to touch. With the guidance of a buddy, I was able to work my butt off way more than I ever thought possible. I really want to get to a track day next year so I can actually drag my knee pucks at speed.
HellforLeather
Member
Forgot to post here, but I was pretty happy this weekend to have finally gotten a knee down. Granted, was just going in circles in a parking lot, but I've been riding for 7 years, long been hanging off in turns but never had my position right so I always got to the edge of the tire before getting my knee to touch. With the guidance of a buddy, I was able to work my butt off way more than I ever thought possible. I really want to get to a track day next year so I can actually drag my knee pucks at speed.
The catch 22 with knee-down is its much harder to do when that is your goal. When the goal is being smooth and fast (like at a track) it comes without even trying.
Be careful with the track day though, it becomes expensive and addictive.
HellforLeather
Member
I have a new addition to the garage....
Picked up a '16 Versys 1000LT a few weeks ago. Been digging it so far but I need to get the suspension sorted out and it seems that its going to be inevitable that I will need to upgrade the seat but other than that, its a lot of fun. The motor is punchy as hell in the bottom and mid range, but havent had a chance to wind it out on account of still breaking it in. I almost went in on an FJ-09 but that bike seemed less suited to 2 up riding and I got a pretty damn fine deal with the Versys.
For all those distance riders out there, what is a good GPS unit to look for? Are there any where you can program your route to get it to looks for the twisty bits?
Picked up a '16 Versys 1000LT a few weeks ago. Been digging it so far but I need to get the suspension sorted out and it seems that its going to be inevitable that I will need to upgrade the seat but other than that, its a lot of fun. The motor is punchy as hell in the bottom and mid range, but havent had a chance to wind it out on account of still breaking it in. I almost went in on an FJ-09 but that bike seemed less suited to 2 up riding and I got a pretty damn fine deal with the Versys.
For all those distance riders out there, what is a good GPS unit to look for? Are there any where you can program your route to get it to looks for the twisty bits?
Fallout-NL
Member
I have a new addition to the garage....
Picked up a '16 Versys 1000LT a few weeks ago. Been digging it so far but I need to get the suspension sorted out and it seems that its going to be inevitable that I will need to upgrade the seat but other than that, its a lot of fun. The motor is punchy as hell in the bottom and mid range, but havent had a chance to wind it out on account of still breaking it in. I almost went in on an FJ-09 but that bike seemed less suited to 2 up riding and I got a pretty damn fine deal with the Versys.
For all those distance riders out there, what is a good GPS unit to look for? Are there any where you can program your route to get it to looks for the twisty bits?
Oraleeway recommended the android app Kurviger a while back when I asked that same question and it's fantastic.
That Garmin can't build something that's even half as good at 600 euro/dollars and up is shameful. Never again.
The only downside is - when your phone isnt waterproof - you need some kind of waterproof case / mounting system.
But yeah, Ive been using it for two weeks now here on bike holiday in France and it's goddamn amazing. Plotting something out is easy, having it plot something for you is also easy. And it seems to be less of a battery drain than google navigation.
+++
Kurviger!
Oh yeah, congrats on the new bike!
HellforLeather
Member
Thanks for the suggestion, is the free version good or is it worth the $6.49 to get the "Pro" version?
Thanks for the link! I don't know what version of the bike I have, but I read the K4 manual. Is there a way to know? I suspect K7 = 2007. No K7 owners manual on the site tho.
Couple of questions so far:
- "Reduce the motorcycle speed before down-shifting. When down-shifting, the engine speed should be increased before the clutch is engaged. This will prevent unnecessary wear on the drive train components and the rear tire." So reduce speed -> blip -> clutch -> shift? Or am I not understand correctly?
- Looks like I can adjust front and rear suspension. Default seems to be 2. Not sure what the bike has right now (I'll check later). Is this something that I need to play around with and figure out what I prefer? Or is it calculated aka how much weight I carry and fix accordingly? I
- How easy is it to change a seat cushion? The one it has looks worn, I could look into getting a new one to make the ride better (not soon tho).
- Premium gas for bikes, it looks like (91 octane or higher). How do you know how much gas can be filled without going over the filler neck? Interestingly enough, there's no number here on the manual (or I can't find it).
- "Allow engine oil to circulate before riding". Is this like a 20-30 second rule?
- The owners manual doesn't show how I can check the oil/fluids, it only mentions what I should use. Is this obvious around the bike (or it depends on the bike, I guess?). There's the warning symbols on the panels though, is that enough? Edit: nvm service manual has all the pictures I need.
- It goes a little crazy on the maintenance chart, I don't know what has been replaced as suggested. Like fuel hoses.
Fallout-NL
Member
I bought it because I wanted to support them, but I think the only additional things you get are no ads and the option to download maps for offline use. So you can give what is pretty much the full experience a shot before you buy.
Let me answer what I actually feel comfortable answering, as I'm a heathen and never adjust my suspension more than upping the preload for luggage or a pillion rider..
Technically yes, but honestly I almost never bother rev-matching, though plenty of people swear by it. Just don't change down before reducing your speed, worst case you can lock the rear wheel
Just remember, even little old ladies drive manual cars over here, so you'll do fine
Oh, one I actually know! If you want to change it you can buy an entire aftermarket seat and swap it, which is very easy. The other option is to do what I did with my old Honda and find an automotive upholsterer to rebuild and recover it for you.
Bear in mind if you read the British manual that our Octane numbers are slightly different than yours, because reasons. Personally I used to put premium in my old carb'd bikes as it 'felt' like they ran a bit smoother, but I don't bother with modern EFI, I just use regular, even on my Ducati.
You know that the tank is full by looking into it as you fill and stopping when its full, it's pretty archaic! There is a 'knack' to holding the nozzle just right so that it doesn't click off straight away, but also doesn't spray you with petrol.
The warmer the better but starting her up before you stick your helmet and gloves on is generally enough for me... just go easy on the revs until its warmed up. If you want to be kind then you can let it stand for longer like I know Fallout does for his Buells
You have any service history? If not I'd just get a full service when its due and have them follow the service schedule
........when do you get your license through?
Technically yes, but honestly I almost never bother rev-matching, though plenty of people swear by it. Just don't change down before reducing your speed, worst case you can lock the rear wheel
Just remember, even little old ladies drive manual cars over here, so you'll do fine
Oh, one I actually know! If you want to change it you can buy an entire aftermarket seat and swap it, which is very easy. The other option is to do what I did with my old Honda and find an automotive upholsterer to rebuild and recover it for you.
Bear in mind if you read the British manual that our Octane numbers are slightly different than yours, because reasons. Personally I used to put premium in my old carb'd bikes as it 'felt' like they ran a bit smoother, but I don't bother with modern EFI, I just use regular, even on my Ducati.
You know that the tank is full by looking into it as you fill and stopping when its full, it's pretty archaic! There is a 'knack' to holding the nozzle just right so that it doesn't click off straight away, but also doesn't spray you with petrol.
The warmer the better but starting her up before you stick your helmet and gloves on is generally enough for me... just go easy on the revs until its warmed up. If you want to be kind then you can let it stand for longer like I know Fallout does for his Buells
You have any service history? If not I'd just get a full service when its due and have them follow the service schedule
........when do you get your license through?
BriareosGAF
Member
Re: blip, this is on the re-engage to rev match so you don't jerk the bike.
Re: cushions, there are lots of options, depends on whether you want to reupholster yourself, buy a new professional seat, etc. In the latter case most are just snap-in replacements for the stock seat.
Re: gas, I just fill it to the base of the gasket cylinder when it's on its stand.
Re: oil, I would guess five full seconds is probably fine, I think they just want you to not turn it on and immediately go wide-open throttle.
Re: service, if it was taken to one specific place you can contact them with VIN to find out what was done. But otherwise you're really reliant on owner's records, which you should always ask for as part of purchasing.
Re: cushions, there are lots of options, depends on whether you want to reupholster yourself, buy a new professional seat, etc. In the latter case most are just snap-in replacements for the stock seat.
Re: gas, I just fill it to the base of the gasket cylinder when it's on its stand.
Re: oil, I would guess five full seconds is probably fine, I think they just want you to not turn it on and immediately go wide-open throttle.
Re: service, if it was taken to one specific place you can contact them with VIN to find out what was done. But otherwise you're really reliant on owner's records, which you should always ask for as part of purchasing.
I got my permit today. They couldn't give me a full license until after I complete my behind the wheel car test (oct 12). When I do, I'll get my license for both. Which is fine, I just can't drive at night or freeways (didn't plan too for the first weeks anyway).
The store did have the logs of what was serviced. I'll contact them to see if I can get them. They also probably want to get me to be a long term customer since they do repairs/service as well so they've been treating me nice. The guy pretty much told me I should service again after 3k miles.
Can't wait to get my gear to test it out.
Edit:
Follow up noob questions:
Where you guys keep your title, insurance papers, etc? Under the seat?
How do you wash a motorcycle, lol?
Edit2: Oops yeah meant registration lol.
The store did have the logs of what was serviced. I'll contact them to see if I can get them. They also probably want to get me to be a long term customer since they do repairs/service as well so they've been treating me nice. The guy pretty much told me I should service again after 3k miles.
Can't wait to get my gear to test it out.
Edit:
Follow up noob questions:
Where you guys keep your title, insurance papers, etc? Under the seat?
How do you wash a motorcycle, lol?
Edit2: Oops yeah meant registration lol.
BriareosGAF
Member
Your title goes in your fire proof safety box in your house, because there's no reason to ever carry that. Your registration however, along with your insurance, you carry on you. I personally keep mine in a waterproof plastic bag in my messenger bag, don't trust the little bits and bobs under the seat.
I wash mine like a car, with the additional caveat that I cover the exhaust output hole with a plastic bag & rubber band. I dry it with my leaf blower, because I'm lazy and don't care about spotting.
A little bit of everything.
Oil coming out of the head casting, the head gasket, the base gasket, and the cam gasket (?)
At minimum it needs a new head casting - time certs have been placed in the head bolts but they loosen.
All in all, I'm looking at a new motor. Or parting out the bike. Which is my plan. I'm already looking at deals for a new bike, but I'm going to be without one of my own for a while.
This is so damn ridiculous. Thief's know there's very little risk to them so it actually encourages them to attempt motorcycle thefts. Even in broad daylight and during a time when there's a lot of traffic, witnesses, even when the rider is riding his motorcycle. It's ridiculous. Can you even fight back?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MjyOATuOH8&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MjyOATuOH8&feature=youtu.be
This is what crippling police cuts and the fact the Met are no longer allowed to chase kids on scooters for 'safety' do to this country
Basically I won't ride in London any more. These are the same types who throw acid in people's faces for their bikes.
That van driver should get knighted for that. Awesome.
So I just noticed a problem with the bike. Whenever I turn high beams on, no lights comes out. Low beam is fine. When low beam and push the headlight flasher, no light. Are the bulbs done?
There's also this:
OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LIGHT
"This indicator comes on when the engine oil pressure is below the normal operating range. This should come on when the ignition switch is ON and the engine is not running. As soon as the engine starts, this should go out."
Does this mean it's okay for the light to turn on when engine is off? I guess it should.
There's also this:
OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LIGHT
"This indicator comes on when the engine oil pressure is below the normal operating range. This should come on when the ignition switch is ON and the engine is not running. As soon as the engine starts, this should go out."
Does this mean it's okay for the light to turn on when engine is off? I guess it should.
You probably have either a separate high beam bulb that's gone, or a dual-filament type one that's partly dead. Either way it sounds like you need a new bulb
The oil light should always come on when the bike is on but the engine is not started, and should always go out after you start it.
The oil light should always come on when the bike is on but the engine is not started, and should always go out after you start it.
SatansReverence
Hipster Princess
Replace headlight globes. They generally have 2 circuits and can burn out one or the other.
If youve turned the motor off but left the ignition on than there is no oil flow or pressure thus bringing up the light. Only be worried if it comes on when the engine is running.
Fallout-NL
Member
What was the first one?
R1200RS! I'm gonna try and arrange an Africa Twin ride too, but I have to wait until my wife schedules a visit to the bathroom showroom where all my money will be spent in the next few months...
HellforLeather
Member
So this is supposedly the new Ducati Stradale V4 superbike.
Ooofff. Its not horrible but the Panigale is a much better looking bike judging by these pics. The header pipe bend under the seat looks even goofier with 2 of them now. Also not a fan of the complicated looking side profile fairing.
Ooofff. Its not horrible but the Panigale is a much better looking bike judging by these pics. The header pipe bend under the seat looks even goofier with 2 of them now. Also not a fan of the complicated looking side profile fairing.
Fallout-NL
Member
Did those pics leak or is the bike revealed already?
Haha, yeah we had a similar visit a while back. It really sucks having to spend money on something I know nothing about. Oh well...
Did you post about the RS? Could be that I missed it.
Haha, yeah we had a similar visit a while back. It really sucks having to spend money on something I know nothing about. Oh well...
Did you post about the RS? Could be that I missed it.
I don't think he did.
...
The R1200RS, I think looks much much nicer in person than pics would have you believe. I got lucky to see it in person. It was very nice.
I haven't ridden the RS yet, got both lined up for next week. Looking forward to it, it does look lovely in person. So does the Multistrada... and the Africa Twin
The Ducati place told me they won't allow test rides if it rains, which is fair enough... but September in England means there's probably a 50/50 chance of me having to reschedule
The Ducati place told me they won't allow test rides if it rains, which is fair enough... but September in England means there's probably a 50/50 chance of me having to reschedule
The_blonde_and_blue
Member
Can't really make a judgement call until I see the front end, but from what I can see, not really feeling it.
The Panigale looks much nicer IMO.
The Panigale looks much nicer IMO.