Thanks, but yeah £73 is pushing it a bit too much I think.Rosebikes.co.uk but once postage is added it might not be quite so reasonable
Yeah, those are the gatorskins. Was looking for 4 seasons.
Thanks, but yeah £73 is pushing it a bit too much I think.
Yeah, those are the gatorskins. Was looking for 4 seasons.
Just ordered the gatorskins from Wiggle with the £10 of a £50 spend code. Added couple extra things to make it 50.
Thanks, but yeah £73 is pushing it a bit too much I think.
Yeah, those are the gatorskins. Was looking for 4 seasons.
Just ordered the gatorskins from Wiggle with the £10 of a £50 spend code. Added couple extra things to make it 50.
Yes, discs in general offer more consistent performance between wet and dry.Or do they still offer some better performance in wet conditions?
So what's the story with mechanical disc brakes? Are they basically like caliper brakes but give you better tire clearance? Or do they still offer some better performance in wet conditions?
Have fun mounting them or trying to use them in any kind of slick weather. I've heard they're so hard they're like oil when it's wet out. The kevlar is also so hard they're a massive pain to mount
Forget your Airshots and whatnot! I got this one, made buy some local guy from old fire extinguishers:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hfN_KRLdt_E&t=2m00s
Yes, discs in general offer more consistent performance between wet and dry.
Since the rotor is much smaller in radius than a rim, getting even similar braking torque requires more aggressive clamping between pad and braking surface. My understanding is that the stronger clamping from the pad sweeps water away better.
They handle much better in wet / mixed conditions. I think at this point it's not a right thing or not to go with them, it's what you want. I went with disc because I wanted a forward looking tech on my build.
But I was more curious about the difference between hydraulic and mechanical. Are mechanical useful?
Mid Wales. Pub is in Rhayader.
I've never cycled on snow before. Is scary. Crashed once because entire wheel went into a ditch I couldn't see.
What's the goal with this bike? What kinds of surfaces are you riding on?So I'm building up a commuter beater road bike from a frame by buddy has, what you recommend for cyclocross wheels and tires? Looking to keep it as cheap as possible while still being solidly made.
Oh, and talking of superhuman... this guy was on my flybys: https://www.strava.com/activities/832439419
I must admit that I geeked out a bit when I saw him. For those of you that don't recognise the name... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mike_Hall_(cyclist)
We are all doing it wrong.
What's the goal with this bike? What kinds of surfaces are you riding on?
Any recommendations for bike trainers off Amazon? I have this, but it's a bit loud.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004I576SM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Edit - also, does anyone use the front wheel stabilizers? I don't have one now and have been fine, curious if there is much/any benefit.
Budget will be a HUGE factor. So how much are you willing to drop?
No need for top of the line, just something relatively quiet and easy to use. I'd entertain going up to $150 maybe. Tell me if that's low / I need to get my expectations in check.
How much tire clearance do you have? Some road racing frames are extremely tight, and may not fit any kind of cyclocross or winter-specific tires. Switching to 650b wheels (and long-reach brakes) could probably give you a bit more breathing room, but usually 650b conversions are done with the intention of using wider road slicks and there might not really exist 650b winter tires that aren't hugely wide.For transportation around Pittsburgh, which gets quite icy and snowy. I don't plan on using the bike when it gets super bad outside.
For reference, this is the frame I'll have: http://store.bicycleczar.com/60cm-TREK-5000-Full-Carbon-OCLV-United-States-Post-p/02140414.htm
How much tire clearance do you have? Some road racing frames are extremely tight, and may not fit any kind of cyclocross or winter-specific tires. Switching to 650b wheels (and long-reach brakes) could probably give you a bit more breathing room, but usually 650b conversions are done with the intention of using wider road slicks and there might not really exist 650b winter tires that aren't hugely wide.
Cyclocross knobs may help in some sorts of snow. If you're intending to hit hard ice, however, the only thing that'll give you traction there is studs. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if any studded tires exist that are narrower than Schwalbe's Marathon Winter 700x30mm.
Edit - Just got accepted into Leadville 100 (Mountin biking race in Colorado, USA). Now the long and painful training begins.
I'm going to crush it.
Yeah, I'm from the UK, though I'll be tapering the week before (and getting used to the altitude), so I wont be doing any major rides. Certainly nothing like Moab where I'm likely to get injured and wreck a year of prep. lol
I'm going to do some hiking to stay active, and some gentle scenery rides though.
If you don't visit Virgin and GoPro yourself at one of the Rampage routes then YOU ARE DEAD TO ME.
I have no idea of the value but it was made after everyone had moved on from steel. It didn't have their signature tubing so it was just in the line for nostalgic types. I don't even remember if that model was made in Italy. It's not worth much.Anyone familiar with old-ish steel road frames? I have the opportunity to buy a Colnago Classic frame from the early noughts, and I'm not sure how much they're worth these days.
Anyone familiar with old-ish steel road frames? I have the opportunity to buy a Colnago Classic frame from the early noughts, and I'm not sure how much they're worth these days.
His brand didn't exist in the 70's.No idea, but I had an Eddy Merckx bike back in the 1970s that's probably worth a small island now.
YES I WAS A JIMMY. Get over it.
His brand didn't exist in the 70's.
Got it. I just knew his own company didn't start until the 80's.Ha ha..! I had a bike with Eddy Merckx branding on it. I don't know what else to tell you.
Edit: Google it. There are plenty of EM bikes from the 1970s. Made by Falcon, apparently. That name rings a bell.
I have no idea of the value but it was made after everyone had moved on from steel. It didn't have their signature tubing so it was just in the line for nostalgic types. I don't even remember if that model was made in Italy. It's not worth much.
What do you guys think about this bike at this price? I'd be purchasing it as a commuter. Looks like it would have clearance to fit much bigger tires.
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5955381011.html
The guy is asking 350 for a frameset with headset and bb, plus original stem and seatpost. I was thinking I might be crazy enough go for it at 300. Would make a beautiful fixie for riding with my buttcrack showing.
Thats probably a decent price since anything new at that range would be junk. Just check it for rust and crash dmg. Look along the top and down tube behind the head tube for ripples.
That would be a much better commuter bike then the road one you linked before. It is also a much better frame then anything nashbar has for under $1400. If it's a M/L then it's the same as a 56 cm road bike, good for someone right around or just under 6'. Check the rims to see if they are concave along the braking track and check the teeth of the chainrings and the chain. Year round commuting can wear those parts badly and the wheels at least would be a few hundred to replace. Also it's a 2012.
Thats probably a decent price since anything new at that range would be junk. Just check it for rust and crash dmg. Look along the top and down tube behind the head tube for ripples.
I was well on my way to building one of those (I think I posed an image of the donor extinguisher here..?) before i got the compressor. It's a neat solution, especially if the extinguisher a pressure gauge on it.
What did you pay for yours? Got a photo?