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"I need a new PC!" 2010 Edition

This might not be the best thread to ask but I dont know if GAF has a basic support thread other than this one so here it goes:

I have Windows 7 Home Premium
When FFXIV launches, Id like to be able to install it and run the update remotely from my laptop at work so I can monitor it while I am here in case I get kicked off or something. This way, I wont have to worry about trying to download and install everything at 6:00 at night.

Is there a good way to do this? I know my version of Windows 7 doesnt have remote desktop so am I basically SOL here or are there programs that let me do this anyways?
 
zlatko said:
2) I wanted to update my drivers for the card in this dell, but I'm lost as crap. When you do it for Nvidia it automatically will detect the card you have and just hold your hand through the process. :D However, this is my first computer with an ATI card. I went to their site to do it, and look at the tutorial video at the bottom, but I'm still stumped on wtf I put in the categories. Here's a link to the site:

http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/Pages/index.aspx

I think the tabs should read:
Desktop Graphics
Radeon HD series
Radeon HD 5xxx PCIe
Windows 7 64 bit

I'm not 100% sure though and google didn't help me find a way to be. I got the top end Dell XPS 7100 series pre built machines.


You have a Radeon HD 5870, right? I'm sure those values are correct.
 
Tensai said:
Does your TV have a dedicated PC HDMI slot? On my Samsung HDMI 2 is where you're supposed to connect PCs. For resolution choose 1360x768 for a 720p TV and 1920x1080 for a 1080p TV.

I'm not proud to admit this but the highest my HDTV goes to is 1080i. ^^; The thing was hella cheap and it's been amazing minus that one flaw. I just did what you said and and checked out both HDMI slots, no difference. I then swapped it to 1360x768 in game settings and that put it to full screen, so that must have been the fix for that issue. Thanks. :D
 
Getting a PC for a friend that is gonna ditch his laptop following my advice.

Here is what he sent me. I reccomended getting just 4Gb and getting a mobo with usb3 and sata 3 for the future:


HXLM26 Cooler Master V8
JCXVF2 Asus ENGTX470/2DI
HU1I33 Intel® procesador Core™ i7-870
TN6A03 Antec EarthWatts 2.0 650 vatios
TTXS04 Caja Sharkoon Rebel12 Economy
CEBL0H LG GH-22LS
GUEL01 Intel® Extreme DP55KG
AEBI15 Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1 TB
ICIF22 Kingston ValueRAM DIMM 4 GB DDR3-1066
ICIF22 Kingston ValueRAM DIMM 4 GB DDR3-1066

This goes around 1200€
 
ghst said:
mw2 and source games tend to be very gpu light. bring something like metro 2033 to that party and there'd soon be a pool of glossy white tears collecting at your feet.

Yeah I guess you're right, and that's probably also why they are the only games people post(mostly)!


Here is a video who runs Crysis at 1920x1080 and 2560x1440... he doesnt say what his video settings is, but its looks... ok. But then again, Crysis is three years old, but then again, it's crysis... I don't know - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49ictEIEPR0
 
ghst said:
in the near future, someone, somewhere will tell you the current line of imacs are a good deal for gaming. i'm telling you, as a friend, to ignore this person. even if that means you go and buy a 360 instead - as against my philosophy as that is. i'd rather you made a $200 mistake than a $2000 one.

I appreciate the honesty, and I'll take it into consideration, and mingle my gaming advice with my vanity, and other pro-apple emotions in my choice.
 
zlatko said:
I'm not proud to admit this but the highest my HDTV goes to is 1080i. ^^; The thing was hella cheap and it's been amazing minus that one flaw. I just did what you said and and checked out both HDMI slots, no difference. I then swapped it to 1360x768 in game settings and that put it to full screen, so that must have been the fix for that issue. Thanks. :D
Nothing wrong with 1080i, that's what my crt wega does and It will "blow away" just about any other tv currently on the market.
 
Felix Lighter said:
You have a Radeon HD 5870, right? I'm sure those values are correct.

Updated and it all worked out so that takes care of 2 of my 3 issues.

Now to figure out why the internet bars only show 3/5 full instead of 5 out of 5.
 
zlatko said:
I'm not proud to admit this but the highest my HDTV goes to is 1080i. ^^; The thing was hella cheap and it's been amazing minus that one flaw. I just did what you said and and checked out both HDMI slots, no difference. I then swapped it to 1360x768 in game settings and that put it to full screen, so that must have been the fix for that issue. Thanks. :D
No problem.:D

This is a message to all people using HDTVs as monitors:
Always remember to use the native resolution of your panel, do not use 720p or 1080p settings(although sometimes 1080p is fine). This will cause your panel to look blurry as the native resolution of all 720p 32"+ TVs is 1366x768 so select 1360x768 from the Windows control panel. If your TV has multiple HDMI slots try the cable in all of them as some manufacturers have dedicated PC slots(on my TV it's HDMI2).
 
I am like a fish, flipping and flooping on what I should have in my Rig...After countless advise, 4-5 trips to Fry's Electronics and Shipping from and to Newegg, I finally came to a conclusion of what is now my final set up.

For starters, I am a noob with PC stuff, I have been a console game for the last 15 years or so...use to be big into computers back in the Atari ST/Commodore days...but as of late it is all console. StarCraft 2 for some reason got me thinking of a PC rig, but I am such a fucking pain in the ass of what I want and especially what I expect out of an investment in PC's. Bottomline, I wanted a rig that could play anything currently out at 100% EVERYTHING, like some of you.

I started off with the following:

AMD Phenom II 965 x4 @3.4
EVGA Super Clocked 460
4 Gigs of Ram
Windows 7 32bit
1 TB HDD
ASUS M4N75TD Motherboard (SLI Ready)
Corsair 850W TW PSU

After a few days of having this built, I noticed that some games I was not able to max out at 1080p and maintain at least a 60FPS. I did a ton of testing, benchmarking etc. So, after about 3 days or so I upped to the following:

All the Above +
Windows 64bit Ultimate
4 additional gigs of Ram
2nd EVGA Superclocked 460

Now the system was running much better, SLI Enabled etc...but even then, some issues mainly related to games fully utilizing a SLI configuration. Diff. games reacted differently to the rig, but comparing my FPS to others that were running a single 480, I found that some better performance would be found going with a single card solution...so the rig evolved again.

Now it contained a EVGA Stock 480, the 460's were removed entirely. After more testing, keeping a log of performance with a single 460, SLI 460's, I found the single 480 outperforming most of the tests that I threw at it. But being a anal mofo and wanting the best, I started reading alot about SLI and some stuff I did not try..so...the SLI 460's returned (Again). Yes, I know this sounds insane!

So the Rig is back to dual 460's, latest SLI Enhancers added, some customization to the game profiles and better results than what I had before when I first tested the dual configuration, but at the end of the day and I had about 8 different tests that I was tracking, I still found OVERALL that the Single 480 was still outperforming the Dual-460's on most (not all) of the tests that I have thrown at the system. What I found was that SLI as good as it was, seemed finicky and very dependent on the game engine and how it handles dual GPU's. Basically as Brain-Stew said "a single powerfull GPU will on average outperform 2 SLI Cards" Of course this would be very game dependent and other factors play into it as well.

So, another trip to Fry's to return some of the stuff and decided to order off Newegg a Super Clocked Evga 480 that has the backplate/high flow bracket (the original 480 was a stock card & returned to Frys). This time, I decided to keep one of the 460's since Newegg has a 15% restocking fee and I wondered how a 480 SC paired with a 460 SC for Physx would work...

Well...I am finally done. The combination of a single GPU Solution paired with a 460 for Physx hit what my lofty expectations wanted...so far, everthing I have thrown at it, running in 1080p on my big screen tv, this combination has been able to run it at max settings. I went through a horrid ordeal, spent a good 12 hours of driving (Frys is 90 miles away from me), I spent way more than I thought, but I learned a valuable lesson and to those of you just starting out and unsure of what to do here is some valuable advice that i have to share.

1. Be patient and don't rush into something.
2. Research and do alot of reading
3. Read (THIS THREAD) - A few users here have great advice
4. Know what your expectations of your rig is going to be and research what will get you to that goal.
5. Dont buy a Retail Rig, build it yourself

I followed only like 2 of these and spent alot more money, time and frustration. In the end I learned alot and if I had to do it again, it would be a breeze. The biggest challenge for those like me is being patient, not rushing into anything. I just wanted my rig and I wanted it NOW. Had I done more research, reading etc. I would of been much better off.

I the end for me, personally speaking and testing, a single card solution worked out better. Could I have had better performance with a dual-460's and let's say a 980x Intel processor, probably, but that processor is close to a grand, plus having to change out motherboards etc. My rig that I have I am very happy with...games runs great, look great and am finally able to enjoy it. More tweaking to be done, but I am finally done swapping parts etc.

Sorry for the length, I know it is a long read, but for the newer folks unsure of what to do, at minimum, follow at least 1 & 2 above. I know the thought of new rig is exciting, but being patient and doing research, you save yourself money and time in the end.

And another THANK YOU to the many users in this thread for advice, direction and feedback...I would not be enjoying my Rig if it was not for many of those in this thread that share there time and experience to help out noobs like myself.
 
Hawk269 said:
I am like a fish, flipping and flooping on what I should have in my Rig...After countless advise, 4-5 trips to Fry's Electronics and Shipping from and to Newegg, I finally came to a conclusion of what is now my final set up.

For starters, I am a noob with PC stuff, I have been a console game for the last 15 years or so...use to be big into computers back in the Atari ST/Commodore days...but as of late it is all console. StarCraft 2 for some reason got me thinking of a PC rig, but I am such a fucking pain in the ass of what I want and especially what I expect out of an investment in PC's. Bottomline, I wanted a rig that could play anything currently out at 100% EVERYTHING, like some of you.

I started off with the following:

AMD Phenom II 965 x4 @3.4
EVGA Super Clocked 460
4 Gigs of Ram
Windows 7 32bit
1 TB HDD
ASUS M4N75TD Motherboard (SLI Ready)
Corsair 850W TW PSU

After a few days of having this built, I noticed that some games I was not able to max out at 1080p and maintain at least a 60FPS. I did a ton of testing, benchmarking etc. So, after about 3 days or so I upped to the following:

All the Above +
Windows 64bit Ultimate
4 additional gigs of Ram
2nd EVGA Superclocked 460

Now the system was running much better, SLI Enabled etc...but even then, some issues mainly related to games fully utilizing a SLI configuration. Diff. games reacted differently to the rig, but comparing my FPS to others that were running a single 480, I found that some better performance would be found going with a single card solution...so the rig evolved again.

Now it contained a EVGA Stock 480, the 460's were removed entirely. After more testing, keeping a log of performance with a single 460, SLI 460's, I found the single 480 outperforming most of the tests that I threw at it. But being a anal mofo and wanting the best, I started reading alot about SLI and some stuff I did not try..so...the SLI 460's returned (Again). Yes, I know this sounds insane!

So the Rig is back to dual 460's, latest SLI Enhancers added, some customization to the game profiles and better results than what I had before when I first tested the dual configuration, but at the end of the day and I had about 8 different tests that I was tracking, I still found OVERALL that the Single 480 was still outperforming the Dual-460's on most (not all) of the tests that I have thrown at the system. What I found was that SLI as good as it was, seemed finicky and very dependent on the game engine and how it handles dual GPU's. Basically as Brain-Stew said "a single powerfull GPU will on average outperform 2 SLI Cards" Of course this would be very game dependent and other factors play into it as well.

So, another trip to Fry's to return some of the stuff and decided to order off Newegg a Super Clocked Evga 480 that has the backplate/high flow bracket (the original 480 was a stock card & returned to Frys). This time, I decided to keep one of the 460's since Newegg has a 15% restocking fee and I wondered how a 480 SC paired with a 460 SC for Physx would work...

Well...I am finally done. The combination of a single GPU Solution paired with a 460 for Physx hit what my lofty expectations wanted...so far, everthing I have thrown at it, running in 1080p on my big screen tv, this combination has been able to run it at max settings. I went through a horrid ordeal, spent a good 12 hours of driving (Frys is 90 miles away from me), I spent way more than I thought, but I learned a valuable lesson and to those of you just starting out and unsure of what to do here is some valuable advice that i have to share.

1. Be patient and don't rush into something.
2. Research and do alot of reading
3. Read (THIS THREAD) - A few users here have great advice
4. Know what your expectations of your rig is going to be and research what will get you to that goal.
5. Dont buy a Retail Rig, build it yourself

I followed only like 2 of these and spent alot more money, time and frustration. In the end I learned alot and if I had to do it again, it would be a breeze. The biggest challenge for those like me is being patient, not rushing into anything. I just wanted my rig and I wanted it NOW. Had I done more research, reading etc. I would of been much better off.

I the end for me, personally speaking and testing, a single card solution worked out better. Could I have had better performance with a dual-460's and let's say a 980x Intel processor, probably, but that processor is close to a grand, plus having to change out motherboards etc. My rig that I have I am very happy with...games runs great, look great and am finally able to enjoy it. More tweaking to be done, but I am finally done swapping parts etc.

Sorry for the length, I know it is a long read, but for the newer folks unsure of what to do, at minimum, follow at least 1 & 2 above. I know the thought of new rig is exciting, but being patient and doing research, you save yourself money and time in the end.

And another THANK YOU to the many users in this thread for advice, direction and feedback...I would not be enjoying my Rig if it was not for many of those in this thread that share there time and experience to help out noobs like myself.

Go and play Arma II.




Muhahahahahaha!
 
MomoPufflet said:
When I try to play Crysis in fullscreen 1080p on my new PC (Steam version) the image is all shaky and there are weird red lines/bars flickering everywhere. I have the latest GTX460 drivers and the latest directx-- what could be causing this? It only applies to fullscreen apparently-- the game looks normal windowed.

-Core i5 750
-G.skill 4GB DDR3
-Gigabyte GTX460
-EVGA P55 FTW 200 MoBo
-Windows 7 Ultimate x64

Even more strange, when I take a screenshot in Fraps the problem doesn't show up in the screenshot. Is it a monitor setting? I'm using an Asus VH236H.

OK, I used a VGA cable converter on the DVI port of my video card and plugged it into my monitor's VGA port-- that seemed to "fix" the issue... What could this mean? I just want to know what part is causing this so I can get an exchange if need be. The problem seems isolated to Crysis 1080p fullscreen when I play through DVI.
 
Vigilant Walrus said:
Ok, brain, nice info. I didn't know about the hardware scaling.


The way I understand it, the card in the Imac(5750m) is a down clocked version of the 5770, which I have heard - Is the fastest 128-Bus card from ATI. The way I understand it, it's this 128 Bus that limits the card.

5750 has 80 less stream processing units and 4 less texture units than the 5770 which is a good bit faster and very easy to overclock as well. The 128bit bus doesn't limit the card anymore than anything else would limit it.
 
Tensai said:
No problem.:D

This is a message to all people using HDTVs as monitors:
Always remember to use the native resolution of your panel, do not use 720p or 1080p settings(although sometimes 1080p is fine). This will cause your panel to look blurry as the native resolution of all 720p 32"+ TVs is 1366x768 so select 1360x768 from the Windows control panel. If your TV has multiple HDMI slots try the cable in all of them as some manufacturers have dedicated PC slots(on my TV it's HDMI2).

I don't know if every HDTV does this, but with mine and this desktop they auto recognized each other. If I right click the desktop and go to screen resolution, it has my TV and brand automatically recognized and it has it set to 1360x768. Pretty awesome stuff this technology thing. :lol
 
Alright ladies unt gentlemen, I need to do some serious planning for troubleshooting ... I'll try my best to keep this from becoming a wall o' text so that somebody actually reads it. <3

As you all know, from my frantic posts, my pc gets random crashes ( anything from surfing to gaming to idling in BIOS ) and I need to solve this A S A P. Here is a list what I've done and plan to do. Hopefully somebody will help me add to the list in order to find the problem before I pulverize this evil pc and drink the dust.


What I have tried.

1) Changed the ram. I've had a total of 3 different sets, set 1 ; broken Corsair ram - pc crashed. Set 2 ; green/non-faulty samsung ram - pc still crashed. Set 3 ; new corsair ram - nonfaulty according to aprox 10h of memtest - pc crashed ( though I have yet to try one stick at a time <- Todo ). Tried with auto-settings in bios, couldn't get the pc running with manually input settings for ram ( could be me though, but I put it to 5-5-5-15 , 2.1V and 2T everything else to auto, wouldn't boot). -- Preliminary conclusion RAM : Present crashes not due to new ram.

2) Tried running it with several different GPUs, some of the gpus showed errors in OCCT, had them RMAd. New nonfaulty gpus arrived, one gts 250 and one 460 gtx. Crashes all over the board, with the broken ones and with the non-faulty ones. -- Preliminary conclusion GPU : Present crashes not due to new gpu.


What I will do.

3) Sending in my PSU ; even though it is a corsair 650W I'm very suspicous that this is the culprit. Reading around on different forums and whatnot and my problems are very very very reminiscent of a bad powersupply -- Suspicion level : 70%

4) Also sending in my motherboard alongside the PSU, I'd love to update my Bios-version but seing as I got a crash inside my BIOS I couldn't take the risk of having a botched flash. Nevertheless, could be the motherboard I have no idea how they are made or how they malfunction. -- Suspicion level : 20%

5) Next up is the CPU, I faintly remember doing stress-tests with my cpu the first day or so that I got the pc and no errors where shown. However, I could still imagine that it has since broken for some bizarre reason. Yet I find this unlikely. -- Suspicion level : 5%

6) Bad wiring, either in the case or in my wall. Feels very unlikely, since wrong wiring should either make shit not work at all or whatever. -- Suspicion level : 5%

7) Optical drive, Software, HDD, Gremlins : I'm not an expert or anything, but none of these should make your BIOS crash. ( which is why I'm leaning heavily towards psu/mobo)


Last but not least

8) Hammer the shit out of it. See if it works any better/worse than before.
 
MidgarBlowedUp said:
5750 has 80 less stream processing units and 4 less texture units than the 5770 which is a good bit faster and very easy to overclock as well. The 128bit bus doesn't limit the card anymore than anything else would limit it.

So you mean... the 5750 is quite a nerf, or its not that bad?
 
Corky said:
Alright ladies unt gentlemen, I need to do some serious planning for troubleshooting ... I'll try my best to keep this from becoming a wall o' text so that somebody actually reads it. <3

As you all know, from my frantic posts, my pc gets random crashes ( anything from surfing to gaming to idling in BIOS ) and I need to solve this A S A P. Here is a list what I've done and plan to do. Hopefully somebody will help me add to the list in order to find the problem before I pulverize this evil pc and drink the its the dust.


What I have tried.

1) Changed the ram. I've had a total of 3 different sets, set 1 ; broken Corsair ram - pc crashed. Set 2 ; green/non-faulty samsung ram - pc still crashed. Set 3 ; new corsair ram - nonfaulty according to aprox 10h of memtest - pc crashed ( though I have yet to try one stick at a time <- Todo ). Tried with auto-settings in bios, couldn't get the pc running with manually input settings for ram ( could be me though, but I put it to 5-5-5-15 , 2.1V and 2T everything else to auto, wouldn't boot). -- Preliminary conclusion RAM : Present crashes not due to new ram.

2) Tried running it with several different GPUs, some of the gpus showed errors in OCCT, had them RMAd. New nonfaulty gpus arrived, one gts 250 and one 460 gtx. Crashes all over the board, with the broken ones and with the non-faulty ones. Preliminary conclusion GPU : Present crashes not due to new gpu.[/U]



What I will do.

3) Sending in my PSU ; even though it is a corsair 650W I'm very suspicous that this is the culprit. Reading around on different forums and whatnot and my problems are very very very reminiscent of a bad powersupply -- Suspicion level : 70%

4) Also sending in my motherboard alongside the PSU, I'd love to update my Bios-version but seing as I got a crash inside my BIOS I couldn't take the risk of having a botched flash. Nevertheless, could be the motherboard I have no idea how they are made or how they malfunction. -- Suspicion level : 20%

5) Next up is the CPU, I faintly remember doing stress-tests with my cpu the first day or so that I got the pc and no errors where shown. However, I could still imagine that it has since broken for some bizarre reason. Yet I find this unlikely. -- Suspicion level : 5%

6) Bad wiring, either in the case or in my wall. Feels very unlikely, since wrong wiring should either make shit not work at all or whatever. -- Suspicion level : 5%

7) Optical drive, Software, HDD, Gremlins : I'm not an expert or anything, but none of these should make your BIOS crash. ( which is why I'm leaning heavily towards psu/mobo)


Last but not least

8) Hammer the shit out of it. See if it works any better/worse than before.

Hey Corky...I have been reading your posts for a while and being that I just got done with my rig and being a noob, I was terrified if I made the right decision to build a rig or should I have just stayed with my consoles. I know you don't want to here this, but once you are up and running you will enjoy it.

For the record, my money is on the Mother Board being bad. Even as a noob, some of the stuff you experienced seems like something with the motherboard. Good luck man.
 
Shit Corky, it sucks that you've had so many issues with your computer. Maybe the guy who sold you the PC knew it was cursed. Suspicion level: 100%
 
Hawk269 said:
Hey Corky...I have been reading your posts for a while and being that I just got done with my rig and being a noob, I was terrified if I made the right decision to build a rig or should I have just stayed with my consoles. I know you don't want to here this, but once you are up and running you will enjoy it.

For the record, my money is on the Mother Board being bad. Even as a noob, some of the stuff you experienced seems like something with the motherboard. Good luck man.

I agree with this.

As you know Corky, I have been having all sorts of issues too. However, I don't get random crashes in BIOS and in the OS. Given that you have tested several sticks of RAM, either power supply or motherboard is faulty. Or maybe some BIOS setting. But something that would make your PC that unstable? I doubt it.

Thing is, power supply is easy to check. Why don't you just stop by any store and pick up a power supply to test. I think that was suggested before. If everything functions correctly, RMA your broken one and when the replacement arrives return the cheapo power supply to the store. Easy and quick way to rule out that possiblility.
 
Corky. You and I are in the same boat. My desktop has been deadlined for a few weeks.

It doesn't even power on anymore. It could be the motherboard or power supply.

I bought a corsair 750 modular power supply (that I'm going to throw into Netsim1) and I'm going to see if it allows my old desktop to power on (which would help to isolate the problem).
 
thanks for the kind replies lads, had this been ANY other kind of equipment that I've bought for the past 5 years ( hdtvs, consoles, home theatre ) I would've dumped the thing day 1.
But I've said it before and I'll say it again, I love games and it seems pc is where my heart lies. I'll keep trying the parts that are left to test. My biggest worst fear now is that I'll send in the mobo/psu and they'll ( the store who tests them thoroughly ) will tell me that there is nothing wrong with either of them.
 
Corky said:
thanks for the kind replies lads, had this been ANY other kind of equipment that I've bought for the past 5 years ( hdtvs, consoles, home theatre ) I would've dumped the thing day 1.
But I've said it before and I'll say it again, I love games and it seems pc is where my heart lies. I'll keep trying the parts that are left to test. My biggest worst fear now is that I'll send in the mobo/psu and they'll ( the store who tests them thoroughly ) will tell me that there is nothing wrong with either of them.

Then a preemptive strike is called for. Do what I say. Pick up any power supply with the watts you need and take it home to test. If everything works, any "tests" performed on your broken PSU are irrelevant, because you have proof.
 
Vigilant Walrus said:
So you mean... the 5750 is quite a nerf, or its not that bad?

It's just not worth the money IMO. A 5770 will get you 10fps more per game on average, and that's before you OC. If you were to xfire two 5750's you would have some decent performance, but for that amount of money you would be much better off with a GTX460
 
rogue74 said:
Then a preemptive strike is called for. Do what I say. Pick up any power supply with the watts you need and take it home to test. If everything works, any "tests" performed on your broken PSU are irrelevant, because you have proof.

I'd love to do this, really, just do the old switcheroo. But there are many problems at hand :

1) I dont have ( obv. ) another PSU or know anyone who does for that matter
2) No pc-stores within a huge radius.

So I'm rather plucked, regardless...all I have to do know is to play the waiting game and pray to the pc-gods that this evil pc hasn't ruined my otherwise perfectly working 460 gtx
 
Corky. I had problems with my PC since I built it. I replaced the RAM, GPU and motherboard. It finally turns out it was the one of the settings in the BIOS.

It was the CPU termination settings also known as the FSB voltage. At auto it wasn't set high enough. This would lead the CPU to undervolt at seemingly random times and crash. It's default setting for my Q9450 processor was 1.20. The default setting for the CPU core is 1.25.

Watching the CPU voltage in Hardware monitor you would see it drop below 1.20. When I set the termination to 1.22. It became steady and never dropped below that.

Since doing this my computer which would regularly crash every hour or so (often less) and would have trouble playing a game for more than 10 minutes - has now worked solidly without a single crash for a month now. I've been using it a lot as well, playing loads of games it would just fail on before.

I tried in vain to search the Internet for a solution and could never find one, until I took two pieces of separate of information about core voltages and added them together.

This probably isn't your problem but I thought I'd share it with you in the hope that it might help. Good luck. It was so disheartening having a great PC that was basically useless. I'm so happy now, knowing that the troubles are for the most part behind me.
 
Salaadin said:
This might not be the best thread to ask but I dont know if GAF has a basic support thread other than this one so here it goes:

I have Windows 7 Home Premium
When FFXIV launches, Id like to be able to install it and run the update remotely from my laptop at work so I can monitor it while I am here in case I get kicked off or something. This way, I wont have to worry about trying to download and install everything at 6:00 at night.

Is there a good way to do this? I know my version of Windows 7 doesnt have remote desktop so am I basically SOL here or are there programs that let me do this anyways?

UltraVNC
 
Corleth the Fey said:
Corky. I had problems with my PC since I built it. I replaced the RAM, GPU and motherboard. It finally turns out it was the one of the settings in the BIOS.

It was the CPU termination settings also known as the FSB voltage. At auto it wasn't set high enough. This would lead the CPU to undervolt at seemingly random times and crash. It's default setting for my Q9450 processor was 1.20. The default setting for the CPU core is 1.25.

Watching the CPU voltage in Hardware monitor you would see it drop below 1.20. When I set the termination to 1.22. It became steady and never dropped below that.

Since doing this my computer which would regularly crash every hour or so (often less) and would have trouble playing a game for more than 10 minutes - has now worked solidly without a single crash for a month now. I've been using it a lot as well, playing loads of games it would just fail on before.

I tried in vain to search the Internet for a solution and could never find one, until I took two pieces of separate of information about core voltages and added them together.

This probably isn't your problem but I thought I'd share it with you in the hope that it might help. Good luck. It was so disheartening having a great PC that was basically useless. I'm so happy now, knowing that the troubles are for the most part behind me.


oh wow, I'm very happy you wrote this, also I'm glad you fixed your issues. This could very well be something that would pertain to my situation. I will, write this down as one of the first things I'll check when the pc is back together. Btw, how do I know what my x3 720 s FSB/termintaion should be set to?


edit: reading your post again, I'm rather confused. Are fsb, termination and cpu voltage the same thing? My voltage should be 0.850-1.425V, how do I know what I should pick if I decide to remove the autosettings?
 
Okay, so I'm gearing up to build a PC for the first time in a couple of weeks. My budget is $700-$800, and I've started picking out parts. Wanted to see what GAF thought of this possible build and if you guys could help me fill in the blanks:
GIGABYTE GA-870A-UD3 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor HDZ965FBGMBOX
Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Western Digital Caviar Blue WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

and then EITHER:
GIGABYTE GV-R577SO-1GD Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card
OR
MSI R5770 Hawk Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card

and either
CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 ...
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power ...
or
Antec EarthWatts EA650 650W Continuous Power ATX12V Ver.2.2 / EPS12V version 2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified ...

I haven't picked out a DVD drive yet, but that'll take 5 minutes. I already own a monitor, mouse, and keyboard.

On top of these parts, I get the impression I need to buy a heatsink/fan and some thermal grease/paste/whatever, but I know next to nothing about those parts, how to pick them out, or how to install them. Can anyone weigh on on my hardware choices and what heatsink I should get?

Thanks.
 
I've been getting the itch to upgrade, this is what i currently have :

ANTEC 1200
ASUS P7P55D-PRO Mobo
i5-750@3.7 Ghz
EVGA GTX 260 216 SLI (overclocked)
4 Gigs RAM Corsair DDR3 1600
850 Watts Corsair (non modular)

the games run great (but not quite 30 frames on games like crysis and starcraft 2, tropico 3, DoW 2,etc) I'd like to be able to get 60 minimum on all games maxed out.

what are my choices?

a GTX 480?
SLI two 460s? 470s?
an SSD?
more RAM?
get an i7 processor and Mobo?

also will doing RAID help with game loading times?
 
Corky said:
oh wow, I'm very happy you wrote this, also I'm glad you fixed your issues. This could very well be something that would pertain to my situation. I will, write this down as one of the first things I'll check when the pc is back together. Btw, how do I know what my x3 720 s FSB/termintaion should be set to?


edit: reading your post again, I'm rather confused. Are fsb, termination and cpu voltage the same thing? My voltage should be 0.850-1.425V, how do I know what I should pick if I decide to remove the autosettings?
Try googling it or maybe one of the experts here can help. I'll have a quick search myself, but I've not owned an AMD processor for many years. I'm not that good at this stuff, as you can probably tell. :)
 
Corleth the Fey said:
Corky. I had problems with my PC since I built it. I replaced the RAM, GPU and motherboard. It finally turns out it was the one of the settings in the BIOS.

It was the CPU termination settings also known as the FSB voltage. At auto it wasn't set high enough. This would lead the CPU to undervolt at seemingly random times and crash. It's default setting for my Q9450 processor was 1.20. The default setting for the CPU core is 1.25.

Watching the CPU voltage in Hardware monitor you would see it drop below 1.20. When I set the termination to 1.22. It became steady and never dropped below that.

Since doing this my computer which would regularly crash every hour or so (often less) and would have trouble playing a game for more than 10 minutes - has now worked solidly without a single crash for a month now. I've been using it a lot as well, playing loads of games it would just fail on before.

I tried in vain to search the Internet for a solution and could never find one, until I took two pieces of separate of information about core voltages and added them together.

This probably isn't your problem but I thought I'd share it with you in the hope that it might help. Good luck. It was so disheartening having a great PC that was basically useless. I'm so happy now, knowing that the troubles are for the most part behind me.

I'm wondering if my memory errors I get in memtest86+ are due to this. Both sticks produce errors on the test individually and it is one of 3 things:

1. I got 2 bad sticks. Possible? Sure. But not likely.
2. I have DDR3 1600 but my processor officially supports only DDR 1333. Sure, running it at a lower speed should work, but maybe there is some instability there. Manual for motherboard states that 1600 is supported only with an OC. AMD documentation says the memory controller on the CPU only supports 1066 or 1333 speeds. (this is the Athlon X4 635.) This one has me confused.
3. BIOS setting. Because of what I mentioned in #2 above, I have to tweak my BIOS settings to run the RAM at 1600.

Now, my motherboard BIOS has settings for CPU voltage, CPU-NB voltage, NB-voltage, DRAM voltage, SB voltage and HT Link Voltage.

I know what all of these are for except CPU-NB and NB. What is the difference there? Is CPU-NB referring to the memory controller? The MSI motherboard manual is not helpful here. I'm thinking that if I tweak all of this correctly (and the timings), my RAM may stop failing memtest.
 
Corky. Termination and FSB voltage are the same thing. CPU core voltage is a different setting. The termination can be various settings as you've discovered. The important thing is that it is 'in sync' with your CPU core voltage. This provides the stability. Because my termination was too low, my system was unstable. When you are in your BIOS you will see what it's autoing to. Try putting it up and see what happens. It has to remain below your core voltage though. For your info - my original voltages was 1.25 core and 1.20 termination. I upped to termination to 1.22. Only a tiny amount but it seems to have made all the difference. Of course I have completely different CPU to yours, so you have to find what's right for yours - if of course this is the problem.
 
Vigilant Walrus said:
Ok, brain, nice info. I didn't know about the hardware scaling.


I really have to think this through. The display you posted is really, really nice. I wonder why on earth it does now show up everywhere on newegg and other places! I could see myself trying to get 2 of those Dell 27''s down the road if I went with a custom rig PC.

The Imac still really speaks to me though. I saw people running MW2 and L4D2 on youtube with everything cranked to the highest at 2560x1440, but still, 2,800 dollars is a lot and I want to use it for a long time, so it really might be outdated relatively soon. !

Stay far, far away from the Imac if gaming is a priority, especially if gaming at native 2560x1440 is on the agenda. Apple use mobile cards in their products and then often downclock them further. The GPU in that $2800 Imac is outperformed by an $80 desktop GPU and worst of all can never be upgraded.

Have a skip through these benchmarks and check out the performance of a full desktop 5750 at 2560x1600. The Mac card will be slower but you'll be using a slightly lower resolution so its a fair comparison.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-5770,2446-11.html

None of the games tested were able to maintain an average of 30fps @ native resolution with the settings cranked. What's worse is the bulk of the games in this test are multiple years old. There's not even one game tested from the last year. If it can't manage 2 year old titles @ native resolution with the settings cranked then how do you think it'll fair in a couple of years?

An average of just under 30fps is often means worse than "console performance" as the result is distorted by times when the framerate shoots above 30fps, meaning you're not looking at anything like a nice locked and steady 30fps and instead will be spending lots of time with the framerate in the lower 20s (i.e. unplayable) territory.

You could always turn your machine into a hackintosh if you want to use that Adobe license. Sure its frowned upon but if you want to use OS X on a machine you also want to use for high end gaming then its your only option. Apple can blame themselves for not offering you a suitable product. Obviously I'm still expecting you to buy Snow Leopard, it doesn't make it any different as far as Apple are concerned but makes it a lot more justifiable morally speaking.
 
Corleth the Fey said:
Corky. Termination and FSB voltage are the same thing. CPU core voltage is a different setting. The termination can be various settings as you've discovered. The important thing is that it is 'in sync' with your CPU core voltage. This provides the stability. Because my termination was too low, my system was unstable. When you are in your BIOS you will see what it's autoing to. Try putting it up and see what happens. It has to remain below your core voltage though. For your info - my original voltages was 1.25 core and 1.20 termination. I upped to termination to 1.22. Only a tiny amount by it seems to have made all the difference. Of course I have completely different CPU to yours, so you have to find what's right for yours - if of course this is the problem.


Very very appreciated, I feel like in the end my problem would be some "obscure" thing like that. Rather than a fullblown faulty psu or mobo. It'll be interesting. Again thanks a bunch for taking your time and sharing that info :)

<3<3<3
 
Rogue74. I think your CPU - NB setting is the FSB/termination setting I'm talking about. I could be wrong though. :)

I had problems with memtest on my original RAM. But buying new RAM didn't fix my problems so this could be related. I think you're only supposed to test one module of RAM at a time with memtest as well.

I'm no BrainStew guys, but I hope sharing my problems will help others.
 
ghst said:
mw2 and source games tend to be very gpu light. bring something like crysis or metro 2033 to that party and there'd soon be a pool of glossy white tears collecting at your feet.

in the near future, someone, somewhere will tell you the current line of imacs are a good deal for gaming. i'm telling you, as a friend, to ignore this person. even if that means you go and buy a 360 instead - as against my philosophy as that is. i'd rather you made a $200 mistake than a $2000 one.

Listen to this man. Someone needs to tell it to you straight. ~$3000 is a lot of money for a lot of people, its a disaster waiting to happen.

Corleth the Fey said:
Rogue74. I think your CPU - NB setting is the FSB/termination setting I'm talking about. I could be wrong though. :)

I had problems with memtest on my original RAM. But buying new RAM didn't fix my problems so this could be related. I think you're only supposed to test one module of RAM at a time with memtest as well.

I'm no BrainStew guys, but I hope sharing my problems will help others.

Heh, I'm no one special dude, i only built my first PC a couple of years ago! :lol
 
evil solrac v3.0 said:
I've been getting the itch to upgrade, this is what i currently have :

ANTEC 1200
ASUS P7P55D-PRO Mobo
i5-750@3.7 Ghz
EVGA GTX 260 216 SLI (overclocked)
4 Gigs RAM Corsair DDR3 1600
850 Watts Corsair (non modular)

the games run great (but not quite 30 frames on games like crysis and starcraft 2, tropico 3, DoW 2,etc) I'd like to be able to get 60 minimum on all games maxed out.

what are my choices?

a GTX 480?
SLI two 460s? 470s?
an SSD?
more RAM?
get an i7 processor and Mobo?

also will doing RAID help with game loading times?

I'd say forget about CPU and RAM.

I guess, a GTX 480 should give you a good performance boost and you get DX11 and the benefits of a single GPU. So, of those options, that seems like the biggest upgrade.
 
So I got all my parts and put my PC together, except now it won't boot. I skimmed through this thread for answers, but nothing seems to work. All my power connections are correct, my cpu is in right and my ram is in the right order. Everything just lights up, then shuts off immediately with no beeps. It won't do it again until I pull the power cord out then reinsert it. Any suggestions would be helpful. Also, does it matter what SATA slots I insert my hard drive into?
 
Hawk269 said:
Lots of stuff.

I'm actually pleased you posted this up as it perfectly demonstrates why I don't tend to recommend using two upper midrange cards in SLI/crossfire. Its just not all that friendly for someone new to high end gaming and for many its just an unnecessary complication. Simply not knowing what sort of performance you're going to get coupled with an overall decrease in general stability are two things that most overlook far too easily.

You really need to know what you're stepping into by going the SLI route and realise that you can't take those benchmarks at face value.
 
evil solrac v3.0 said:
I've been getting the itch to upgrade, this is what i currently have :

ANTEC 1200
ASUS P7P55D-PRO Mobo
i5-750@3.7 Ghz
EVGA GTX 260 216 SLI (overclocked)
4 Gigs RAM Corsair DDR3 1600
850 Watts Corsair (non modular)

the games run great (but not quite 30 frames on games like crysis and starcraft 2, tropico 3, DoW 2,etc) I'd like to be able to get 60 minimum on all games maxed out.

what are my choices?

a GTX 480?
SLI two 460s? 470s?
an SSD?
more RAM?
get an i7 processor and Mobo?

also will doing RAID help with game loading times?

CPU and RAM are fine, no need to spend money there.

Do you not mind SLI? SLI GTX 470s are a pretty tasty proposition if you've been generally happy with your GTX 260s I think its possibly a smart move. They're throwing a free Steam copy of Mafia 2 away with them now as well which could recoup you $60-$80 easily.

No one can maintain a constant 60fps in SC2 with ultra settings due to the crappy CPU optimisation. The hardware to do it simply does not exist and likely never will. There's a setting or two (shadows and/or shaders) which when reduced to high will significantly reduce the load on your CPU. Its counter-intuitive I know but if you want to come close to a constant 60fps in the game its your only option.

Edit:

You can get an ASUS GTX 470 with a 3 year warranty and free copy of Mafia 2 for $275 after rebate now!! Insane value:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121372&cm_re=gtx_470-_-14-121-372-_-Product

If you were looking to buy Mafia 2 anyway, that makes the card effectively cheaper than even a GTX 460. Now I'm not going to argue that a straight $230 wouldn't be better but the point is that these two cards shouldn't even be in a similar price bracket at all. You're getting a good ~30% general performance increase as well as a similar increase in VRAM.

So if anyone ends up with a spare copy of Mafia 2 because they jump on this deal, then uncle brain_stew wouldn't mind taking it off your hands!! Consider it my commision! :lol
 
brain_stew said:
CPU and RAM are fine, no need to spend money there.

Do you not mind SLI? SLI GTX 470s are a pretty tasty proposition if you've been generally happy with your GTX 260s I think its possibly a smart move. They're throwing a free Steam copy of Mafia 2 away with them now as well which could recoup you $60-$80 easily.

No one can maintain a constant 60fps in SC2 with ultra settings due to the crappy CPU optimisation. The hardware to do it simply does not exist and likely never will. There's a setting or two (shadows and/or shaders) which when reduced to high will significantly reduce the load on your CPU. Its counter-intuitive I know but if you want to come close to a constant 60fps in the game its your only option.


ok, so forget SC2 then. I like SLI and i've been happy, EXCEPT, my Mobo does 3-way SLI ,at least it claims it does but i don't see the space for a third card without spiking temps wildly. i was considering SLI and the third for PhysX, but I am worried about those two issues.(temps and space) plus I didn't really want to lose my sound card.

is PhysX really, really worth it or is it more novelty? frankly I would rather have one very powerful card, in PhysX and a sound card just so I can have more space. though i will look strongly towards the 470.
what about the SSD? can I reinstall my OEM windows 7 in an SSD?
 
evil solrac v3.0 said:
ok, so forget SC2 then. I like SLI and i've been happy, EXCEPT, my Mobo does 3-way SLI ,at least it claims it does but i don't see the space for a third card without spiking temps wildly. i was considering SLI and the third for PhysX, but I am worried about those two issues.(temps and space) plus I didn't really want to lose my sound card.

is PhysX really, really worth it or is it more novelty? frankly I would rather have one very powerful card, in PhysX and a sound card just so I can have more space. though i will look strongly towards the 470.
what about the SSD? can I reinstall my OEM windows 7 in an SSD?

You don't need a dedicated PhysX card to enable PhysX. You can enable it while still running your 470s in SLI. If you disable NPC cloth then you should be able to get 60fps @ 1080p w/ forced AA in Mafia 2 this way. You can try out PhysX effects yourself right now, decide for yourself if its a novelty.

You can install OEM Windows on an SSD just fine.
 
brain_stew said:
Stay far, far away from the Imac if gaming is a priority, especially if gaming at native 2560x1440 is on the agenda. Apple use mobile cards in their products and then often downclock them further. The GPU in that $2800 Imac is outperformed by an $80 desktop GPU and worst of all can never be upgraded.

Have a skip through these benchmarks and check out the performance of a full desktop 5750 at 2560x1600. The Mac card will be slower but you'll be using a slightly lower resolution so its a fair comparison.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-5770,2446-11.html

None of the games tested were able to maintain an average of 30fps @ native resolution with the settings cranked. What's worse is the bulk of the games in this test are multiple years old. There's not even one game tested from the last year. If it can't manage 2 year old titles @ native resolution with the settings cranked then how do you think it'll fair in a couple of years?

An average of just under 30fps is often means worse than "console performance" as the result is distorted by times when the framerate shoots above 30fps, meaning you're not looking at anything like a nice locked and steady 30fps and instead will be spending lots of time with the framerate in the lower 20s (i.e. unplayable) territory.

You could always turn your machine into a hackintosh if you want to use that Adobe license. Sure its frowned upon but if you want to use OS X on a machine you also want to use for high end gaming then its your only option. Apple can blame themselves for not offering you a suitable product. Obviously I'm still expecting you to buy Snow Leopard, it doesn't make it any different as far as Apple are concerned but makes it a lot more justifiable morally speaking.


Thanks. You're right. L4D was the only game I could see, that stayed above 30 FPS. Hmmm... Hackintosh? Never thought about this.

I'll think this over and come back with an idea! Thanks again brain stew!:)
 
brain_stew said:
You don't need a dedicated PhysX card to enable PhysX. You can enable it while still running your 470s in SLI. If you disable NPC cloth then you should be able to get 60fps @ 1080p w/ forced AA in Mafia 2 this way. You can try out PhysX effects yourself right now, decide for yourself if its a novelty.

You can install OEM Windows on an SSD just fine.


no I know I can run it without a dedicated but don't I lose performance?
but I already have the OS installed on my hard drive, I emant can I install it again on another hard drive/SSD as long as I have the same Mobo?
 
MomoPufflet said:
When I try to play Crysis in fullscreen 1080p on my new PC (Steam version) the image is all shaky and there are weird red lines/bars flickering everywhere. I have the latest GTX460 drivers and the latest directx-- what could be causing this? It only applies to fullscreen apparently-- the game looks normal windowed.

-Core i5 750
-G.skill 4GB DDR3
-Gigabyte GTX460
-EVGA P55 FTW 200 MoBo
-Windows 7 Ultimate x64

Even more strange, when I take a screenshot in Fraps the problem doesn't show up in the screenshot. Is it a monitor setting? I'm using an Asus VH236H.
MomoPufflet said:
OK, I used a VGA cable converter on the DVI port of my video card and plugged it into my monitor's VGA port-- that seemed to "fix" the issue... What could this mean? I just want to know what part is causing this so I can get an exchange if need be. The problem seems isolated to Crysis 1080p fullscreen when I play through DVI.

If anyone cares, the problem was a bad DVI port on my GTX460 card (I tried the other port and it worked fine). FFXIV open beta starts next week so I'm annoyed that I'll have to exchange it, but I might want 2 monitors in the future so I'd rather get it over with. Oh well, at least I figured it out.
 
Anybody in southern ontario who wants a good gaming laptop, NCIX's new markham retail store is going to be selling the Asus G73JH-B1 for a cool $999 tomorrow morning.

That price is so low it's stupid.

They're having a pretty good online sale on right now too. I picked up a Noctua cpu cooler for $49 and a 850W seasonic PSU that retails for $250 for $99
 
TouchMyBox said:
Anybody in southern ontario who wants a good gaming laptop, NCIX's new markham retail store is going to be selling the Asus G73JH-B1 for a cool $999 tomorrow morning.

That price is so low it's stupid.

They're having a pretty good online sale on right now too. I picked up a Noctua cpu cooler for $49 and a 850W seasonic PSU that retails for $250 for $99

That thing comes with a mobility 5870 and core-i7 quad right? Really nice deal.

You can't get a significantly faster gaming laptop without investing 2x or more than that and even then you're going to end up with a much bulkier and hotter machine anyway, so its debatable whether its worth the tradeoff.

Edit: What in the fuck!?

That particular G73 comes with 8GB RAM a Core i7 740, 2 500GB HDDs AND a BD drive!! $1000 can't be right, that's completely ridiculous, I'd argue that's literally the best gaming laptop money can buy and its only $1000CAD! :lol Holy shit!!
 
What dictates the minimum fps in a game? Is it all GPU dependent? I'm seeing some pretty deep holes in the games I play, especially Borderlands which I am now convinced runs like shit in general. I thought I'd be playing that game with some AA at a smooth 60fps but now I've had to lock it at 30 without AA because it jumps around between 30-120fps.

Also, what is a good max voltage for CPU overclocking? I thought I found something pretty stable after a couple of hours of Prime95 testing only to have an inexplicable BSOD from a youtube video. I'm concerned about going passed 1.4V. It this justified?
 
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