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"I need a new PC!" 2010 Edition

DeathNote said:
The AM3 board in that $550 budget rig has poor upgradability?

I want to do Starcraft II, WoW, FFXIV, and The Old Republic, and Dolphin for $500
It's only poor because AM3+ will not work on AM3 boards. AMD and Intel are both ditching their current sockets. You can always upgrade to a good 6 core CPU however (1055,1090)

That rig will run all of those games well, and Dolphin is iffy. It highly prefers Intel, but someone mentioned a decent number of games running ok on AMD CPU's and that there was a specific AMD build. As always with Dolphin you'll need to look up builds and games and figure out what will work best.

Intel however definitely has an edge there. Nabbing an i5 750 + a cheap H55 board will be about $130 more, but FFXIV, Dolphin, and SC2 should run better.
 
IrishNinja said:
ugh, this sucks. i just spent the last hour looking for any kind've laptop with 17"+ screen, dualcore around 2.5/turbo to 3.0ghz+, and a half-decent video card, and came up empty. tons of quads at like 1.6, nothing with numbers (even on turbo) close to or above 3.0...dell's page sucks, and i thought i had a good rig setup at HP until it said the only vid card option was Nvidia GT 230M, which reviews paint as fucking dismal for modern pc gaming:lol

am i being overly specific here? is there not much market/demand for desktop replacements with high-end GPUs and processors that are/can be made to be over 3ghz? still defaulting with the G73, but GAF's dolphin thread has several guys talking about running it at 3.4ghz/etc and i can't believe that's not an option with gaming laptops unless i want to take a massive hit to the GPU's power.

Gaming laptops are a super-niche market. You should probably look into some of the Asus monsters that are out there. Stay away from Alienware.
 
markot said:
Value for money wise, whats the best video card out right now >.<?
Fairly consistent, but you pay more as you go up. Probably still the 4850 right now.

If you gave more info it would help instead of just saying the best value card.
 
IrishNinja said:
am i being overly specific here? is there not much market/demand for desktop replacements with high-end GPUs and processors that are/can be made to be over 3ghz?
In a way, yes. My understanding is that you basically need the high clock speed for two games, SMG1/2, since running them below 60fps is pretty lame. 2.8Ghz will probably run everything else fine. Post on the Dolphin forums and see if anyone is running Dolphin with a G73 (or an i7-720QM) and see what sort of results they get. I have a feeling that Gamecube games and 30fps Wii games would run fine.

DeathNote said:
I want to do Starcraft II, WoW, FFXIV, and The Old Republic, and Dolphin for $500
We don't have sys reqs for Old Republic yet, but I don't think they will go out of range of that box. Dolphin won't run SMG 1/2 at 60fps on that CPU (without overclocking at least), but other stuff will probably be ok. FFXIV is pretty demanding by the sounds of things, but it will run at least. SC2 and WoW will be fine.

Unknown Soldier said:
You should probably look into some of the Asus monsters that are out there.
You don't get any more Asus monstery than the G73 he's already looking at.
 
Playing at 1680x1050

Ummmmmmmmmm

Most of my system is newish, i7 blah blah blah. But I got a 4770 >.<

Dont want to spend too much either.
 
I'm gettin' there guys!
Considering that it has been 7 years since I've last laid an hand on a PC, I think I'm actually faring alright! :D

Flashed the mobo bios, new drivers for the Samsung HDD and all the tests (ram, hdd...) have passed with 0 errors, yay!

2z88709.jpg


QUESTIONS:

  • Since the CoolerMaster 212+ is still out of stock here, I was thinking if it would be possible to just keep using the i5 750 stock one until I'm going to overclock (in the future anyway, no hurry now). Case's a Thermaltake DH 101 and I'm not going to game (or leave it on) for more than 2 hours straight, never gonna happen.
  • In my MacBook Pro I have bluetooth straight out of the box, I guess my Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD3 doesn't have it? Do I need a usb dongle?
  • Is there a way to use my Dualshock 3 in every game or do I need to buy a proper win gamepad like the 360's controller+pc dongle?
    What about the Wii Remote + Classic Controller Pro?
  • Last one :D It's just a matter to check a box in the game's option to play under Direct X11 say, Dirt 2?

Sorry for my newbiety! :lol
 
Dash Kappei said:
I'm gettin' there guys!QUESTIONS:

  • Since the CoolerMaster 212+ is still out of stock here, I was thinking if it would be possible to just keep using the i5 750 stock one until I'm going to overclock (in the future anyway, no hurry now). Case's a Thermaltake DH 101 and I'm not going to game (or leave it on) for more than 2 hours straight, never gonna happen.
  • In my MacBook Pro I have bluetooth straight out of the box, I guess my Gigabyte GA-P55A-UD3 doesn't have it? Do I need a usb dongle?
  • Is there a way to use my Dualshock 3 in every game or do I need to buy a proper win gamepad like the 360's controller+pc dongle?
    What about the Wii Remote + Classic Controller Pro?
  • Last one :D It's just a matter to check a box in the game's option to play under Direct X11 say, Dirt 2?
Go ahead and use stock for now, installing the cooler will not be fun later.
Bluetooth you need a PCI or USB adapter, most motherboards do not come with it.
Use MotionJoy (iirc) for a DS3
Wiimote you use with bluetooth and something
DX I think is a game option under properties? I'm actually not sure.
 
So, got all my parts in today and started building. It's all in, wanna hook it up.

...

No power cord. Both the PSU and the Case manufacturer have been lazy or cheap or both and haven't packed in a power cable. I got none here, so that means going to the shop tomorrow... Ugh. Pissed off >:(
 
Dina said:
So, got all my parts in today and started building. It's all in, wanna hook it up.

...

No power cord. Both the PSU and the Case manufacturer have been lazy or cheap or both and haven't packed in a power cable. I got none here, so that means going to the shop tomorrow... Ugh. Pissed off >:(
I know everyone is cheaping out more and more these days, but how is that even possible from a decent PSU manufacturer? Even the lowest end unit I ever purchased came with a cord.

For the time being, why not just use the cord from something like a PS3, printer, or A/V receiver? Just so that you have peace of mind that the PC boots and everything seems to be in working order.
 
Hazaro said:
Go ahead and use stock for now, installing the cooler will not be fun later.

Yeah? It'll be a swearwords-maker you say? :-/

Bluetooth you need a PCI or USB adapter, most motherboards do not come with it.

Ok, I can just go with a USB dongle BlueT 2.0/2.1 then unless you don't advice against that...

Use MotionJoy (iirc) for a DS3
Wiimote you use with bluetooth and something

Yeah, now I've informed myself and it seems that using it under 64bits OSes it's just a bitch because of how they handle unsigned drivers (they don't, unless in test mode).
Damn. :-/
Do I really need to buy a PC X360 controllers? It costs more than a normal wireless X360 controller and I friggin' hate that D-pad!
Maybe my old USB x4 PS2 Dualshock 2 adapter still works under win7 64bit... I need to try that.

update: I've read this works very well and also under win 7 64 bit gamepad manager
2.jpg

I can use my Classic Controller Pro with it, of course it sucks because it's USB and not wireless.
But for just $16...


DX I think is a game option under properties? I'm actually not sure.

Oh, good then, I can worry about that when I actually have any game installed, nothing to set up before.
 
Dash Kappei said:
Yeah, now I've informed myself and it seems that using it under 64bits OSes it's just a bitch because of how they handle unsigned drivers (they don't, unless in test mode).
Damn. :-/
Do I really need to buy a PC X360 controllers? It costs more than a normal wireless X360 controller and I friggin' hate that D-pad!
Maybe my old USB x4 PS2 Dualshock 2 adapter still works under win7 64bit... I need to try that.
http://www.motioninjoy.com/download

Should work fine?
 
As one of those guys running W7 that had problems with the Motion Joy software I actually figured it out. Running unsigned drivers is easy, all you do is press F8 during boot, or optionally you can go through extra steps to sign the drivers yourself. My computer rarely turns off, it goes to sleep so for me I don't have to hit F8 all the time. The major problem was AVG interfering with the software, once I uninstalled it the drivers worked fine over USB and Bluetooth. One item of note though is that MJ will take over your BT adapter and driver installation happens on individual USB ports so if you switch ports you have to reinstall the driver, if you want to use your BT normally with other devices plug it into a different USB port that hasn't had the driver installed.

Now it works perfectly for me and is quite nice to have the ability to sit back and use a wireless controller with my PC. It pretty much only gets used to run console titles on Dolphin etc.. and for splitscreen multiplayer. Oh and another note make sure you're using a DS3, I don't believe it works with the original sixaxis.

Edit: One thing I was wondering if someone here had a DS3 config file for L4D. I'm hoping I don't have to spend all the time figuring out what each button is called in order to properly edit the .cfg file. Keybinding in the game doesn't allow you to look side to side, only to look up/down, walk forward/back/strafe
 
Hazaro said:

You mean the Dualshock 3?

Nope. I mean, it works but unfortunately when under 64bit OSes, as I wrote above, you need to F8 boot every time, run in test mode to accept unsigned drivers and only then it'll work... and you need to do that every goddamn time you want to use it.
Huge time waste. :/

I think I'll just test my usb dualshock 2 adpter for now, and then just fork out the monet for a proper windows gamepad. Meh.

edit:
Thank you very much Shambles for all the infos, but it's just a hassle for me, especially the usb/BT adapter hiccups and almost always having to fiddle with the config file. Good for you tho if you're fine with it! :)
 
When assembling my new comp I did everything perfect except I forgot the MOBO's 4 pin power supply. Only plugged the big one in.

Powered it on and got lights and fans, and mobo lights, but no screen. Powered down and found the error and plugged in the second power cable.

Got windows installed fine and am updating. Appears to be running fine. Any chance I damaged anything with this mistake?
 
Dash Kappei said:
You mean the Dualshock 3?

Nope. I mean, it works but unfortunately when under 64bit OSes, as I wrote above, you need to F8 boot every time, run in test mode to accept unsigned drivers and only then it'll work... and you need to do that every goddamn time you want to use it.
Huge time waste. :/

I think I'll just test my usb dualshock 2 adpter for now, and then just fork out the monet for a proper windows gamepad. Meh.

edit:
Thank you very much Shambles for all the infos, but it's just a hassle for me, especially the usb/BT adapter hiccups and almost always having to fiddle with the config file. Good for you tho if you're fine with it! :)

I'm not sure what you've tried but it sounds like you're rebooting each time you're wanting to use it? You just need to do it when you first boot, you don't need to reboot between playing times. I've shut my controller off and on several times. it syncs just like it does with a PS3. Pushing the PS button syncs it with my PC, holding down the PS button for 10 seconds turns it off. Perhaps it worth checking out what version of the software/driver you were using. They are up to 5 and a beta on 6 I believe. Some people are reporting problems with certain BT adapters but I get the feeling that most peoples problems is anti-virus interference.
 
IrishNinja said:
ugh, this sucks. i just spent the last hour looking for any kind've laptop with 17"+ screen, dualcore around 2.5/turbo to 3.0ghz+, and a half-decent video card, and came up empty. tons of quads at like 1.6, nothing with numbers (even on turbo) close to or above 3.0...dell's page sucks, and i thought i had a good rig setup at HP until it said the only vid card option was Nvidia GT 230M, which reviews paint as fucking dismal for modern pc gaming:lol

am i being overly specific here? is there not much market/demand for desktop replacements with high-end GPUs and processors that are/can be made to be over 3ghz? still defaulting with the G73, but GAF's dolphin thread has several guys talking about running it at 3.4ghz/etc and i can't believe that's not an option with gaming laptops unless i want to take a massive hit to the GPU's power.

http://www.sagernotebook.com/index.php?page=product_customed&model_name=NP8760


You can get it with the i5 520/540 or i7 620. You can also upgrade it to the gtx 460m :D
 
·feist· said:
I know everyone is cheaping out more and more these days, but how is that even possible from a decent PSU manufacturer? Even the lowest end unit I ever purchased came with a cord.

For the time being, why not just use the cord from something like a PS3, printer, or A/V receiver? Just so that you have peace of mind that the PC boots and everything seems to be in working order.

It's the Nexus 430, a pretty decent brand too. Good HTPC PSU. I dunno man, guess I'll get it tomorrow.
 
HooCares said:
When assembling my new comp I did everything perfect except I forgot the MOBO's 4 pin power supply. Only plugged the big one in.

Powered it on and got lights and fans, and mobo lights, but no screen. Powered down and found the error and plugged in the second power cable.

Got windows installed fine and am updating. Appears to be running fine. Any chance I damaged anything with this mistake?

Nope, no damage done as the system didn´t get enough power...it didn´t properly boot.
 
Shambles said:
I'm not sure what you've tried but it sounds like you're rebooting each time you're wanting to use it? You just need to do it when you first boot, you don't need to reboot between playing times. I've shut my controller off and on several times. it syncs just like it does with a PS3. Pushing the PS button syncs it with my PC, holding down the PS button for 10 seconds turns it off. Perhaps it worth checking out what version of the software/driver you were using. They are up to 5 and a beta on 6 I believe. Some people are reporting problems with certain BT adapters but I get the feeling that most peoples problems is anti-virus interference.

No, I meant when rebooting the PC, since I completely shut it off and not ibernate it.
I had the impression you needed to install the drivers as well each and every time, then reboot it and F8 for test mode. Isn't that the case? Won't I need to re-install the drivers when I run the system in normal mode (not test mode)?
If it's just the case to install everything once and then F8 test mode only when I want to use it then it's not so bad.
Do I still need to do everything if I'm going to use it thru USB instead of going bluetooth?
And last but not least, what about games (like crappy Spiderman web of Shadows) where you're forced to play with the X360 controller if you want to use a gamepad?
 
hey dash, if you ever do find an xbox controller on the cheap, don't hesitate to pick it up. i just picked one up and it's been great. it's plug and play and works with almost all modern games.
 
Wanted to do a brain dump here, so don't mind me, just wanted to get people's thoughts on what I'm thinking of doing.

I'm currently using a mid-2007 24" iMac. It was my first Mac computer, up until that point I'd built my own computers through college and grad school. I am, however, an electrical engineer, so wouldn't you know, the need to tinker has me wanting to go back to building my own PC again. I'm not terribly wedded to OSX and I really like Windows 7 too, so there's that. Anyway, before this epiphany I was thinking of just upgrading to the latest high end, tricked out 27" iMac (minus an SSD as the prices are crazy through Apple for that). Now that I've decided to build my own rig again I've pretty much set my budget at 27" iMac Cost + $500 give or take (so about $2500 total) to account for the fact that I need to buy a monitor and would like to stick with 27" that I'll be giving up from the iMac - assuming $1k for that, that leaves $1500 for a build. However, any rig I build now is going to be somewhat driven by one of the things I've liked about the iMac - the low noise floor of the machine. So some of my initial decisions have been

I know I'll never get as quiet as the iMac since it's essentially a laptop machine, but I want to pay more mind to working with that. Hence, the first buying decisions. My philosophy always was, put a good deal of money into the "keeper" things you'll keep a while if you can (unless it's a throwaway system). So I'm willing to spend relatively big bucks on 1) a monitor, 2) a case, 3) a power supply.

1) I still own and use my 21" Sony Trinitron GDM-500PS that I bought back in 1999 for about $1500. Just look at this thing (these are not pictures of my actual monitor):

14mqnd.jpg

1qjwi0.jpg


Still going strong, still amazing, still heavy as hell, but for a monitor more than a decade old I think I've gotten my money's worth.

Anyway, back to current events. I want 27" as one of my primary uses is Lightroom and Photoshop Elements (that's actually my heaviest duty non-gaming task). It seems like the new Dell U2711 is about the only game in town aside from the 27" Apple Cinema Display, both with resolutions of 2560 x 1440. They use the same panel, but the Dell has a CCFL backlight and is matte the Apple uses LED backlight and is glossy. It seems many consider the Dell better for photo work, but we'll have to see where I go on this. They're about the same price though the Dell is likely to be found for a lower price or on special as time goes on more so than the Apple. The whole glossy vs. matte means little to me, I can go with either. The Apple is only Displayport though, which would affect my graphics card decision I suppose.

2) The main reason my want to build a PC got ignited is because I went looking at sites and came across a case I freaking fell in absolute love with. The Silverstone Fortress 2.

2s9wtc8.jpg


Damn, I drool looking at that thing. The 90 degree rotated motherboard, the I/O on the top, the clean lines, the fans - the FREAKING FANS!!!!! The best part is that it's recommended by Silent PC Review as being a good quiet system case, so I feel it's a good base and is likely to last through a good many system upgrades (did I mention I even still have the server tower case I used in the build back 1999 that I used the Trinitron monitor for? Yeah, I keep everything). That all seems to make the asking $200+ price worth it.

3) Power Supply is a bit more up in the air since it will depend on how I go with other stuff. I'm trying to basically pick from the units Silent PC Review suggests. My initial thought is the Seasonic X750 but I'm not sure that will be enough.

I also think I'll forgo an internal optical drive of any kind and get a USB one for install duties. I think I'm also going to go SSD for the system drive, or maybe get one of those hybrid drives to have more storage without having two separate drives in the machine.

In terms of everything else, I'm currently thinking Bulldozer is too far away to worry about on the AMD side, and I'm unsure about the Sandybridge schedule (need to read up). I could always just basically match what I was going to buy in the iMac, an i7 of some kind.

My main uses are, as I said, Lightroom, Photoshop Essentials, I do some hobbiest programming and development but nothing that requires a ton of power. Since I'm outlaying so much cash already I figure I may as well make it a good gaming rig as well, though I'm not sure that will result in a "quiet" system (I do like a tad bit of white noise from my machine though).

I haven't kept up with modern graphics cards (the last card I bought was an ATI 880GTS), so I'm not sure where I should be looking to push a 2560x1440 resolution screen. In gaming should I even expect to push that native resolution or just go lower resolution and have the card scale? In any event, I was thinking of doing a GTX460 SLI setup, but again undecided.

Anyway, just my thoughts. I need to read up on the CPU/Socket schedules, but I figure mobo/cpu/ram/gpu combos are not nearly as important longevity-wise as the initial outlay for a quality monitor, case, and power supply, since they'll stick around through many socket iterations.
 
teiresias said:
I haven't kept up with modern graphics cards (the last card I bought was an ATI 880GTS), so I'm not sure where I should be looking to push a 2560x1440 resolution screen. In gaming should I even expect to push that native resolution or just go lower resolution and have the card scale? In any event, I was thinking of doing a GTX460 SLI setup, but again undecided.
If you can wait, the ATI 6 series should be launching within the next month or two. It should at least force some prices to adjust if nothing else. GTX460 SLI performance does look good. Single GPU setups are always far less hassle though. It's not that uncommon for a game not to support SLI at launch for example.

I still have a decade+ old Sony based 21" CRT as my secondary monitor by the way. So nice. It's starting to blur a little in the corners though.
 
I'm buying a 2TB internal hard drive and want to know if I have to put it in a RAID for it to work? I know it's preferable, but can I not just plug it in and use it with my existing system without have to reformat everything?
 
The cooler master 212 is causing me fits. Is it really that big of a PITA to get the x brackets to fit snuggly into the middle square area of the heat sink? I cant get the little notch to line up and the damn thing is offset.

Also, should I put the thermal paste on the heat sink, the cpu, or both?
 
Dosia said:
The cooler master 212 is causing me fits. Is it really that big of a PITA to get the x brackets to fit snuggly into the middle square area of the heat sink? I cant get the little notch to line up and the damn thing is offset.

I installed it earler today and ended up having to apply way more pressure than I'm comfortable with to get that damn x bracket screwed in. I feel like I might have hurt something...

tech masters pleeaaaase help me...I spent 4 hours today assembling my computer, plugged it in, pressed the power button and.....nothing happened. Nothing. There's a bright green LED light on my Mobo telling me that it's getting power, but other than that nothing happens. I tried resetting the power button connectors several times, nothing.

What could this mean? Even if I fucked up the RAM or HDD it would still boot up for a few seconds, right? Or without the CPU the fans would still run, right? I have no idea what to do. If I don't get struck with a miracle in the next 24 hours I'm going to take it into a shop because I don't have the patience to disassemble and reassemble it component by component especially because if it IS a faulty PSU, I don't have another one to test with.

So I guess there's not much for me to do other than cross post this and hope someone has a suggestion or solution. Googled for a while and none of the suggestions helped.
 
Make sure you have all the power connectors plugged into the motherboard. There are usually two, the bigger one and the smaller one. If your video card requires its own power, make sure you've populated all the power plugs in the back of that too.

Failing that, unplug everything non essential and reseat everything essential. Unplug drives from the motherboard (you don't need the HDD to get the BIOS screen at least). Unplug all external devices, front panel connectors and any unnecessary cards. Then reseat the rest. Reseat the power connectors to the motherboard and to the video card, reseat the RAM, reseat the video card, and last of all because it can be a pain in the arse, reseat the CPU.

If it still fails and you suspect a faulty switch, you can try shorting the switch pins on the motherboard with a paperclip or screwdriver. It's safe, but google how to do it and don't hold me responsible if you do something dumb and ram it where you shouldn't.

If that all fails, take the motherboard out of the case and sit it on the bit of foam or whatever it was packed with and try and boot it up like that, as the motherboard could be shorting on the case.
 
I may not have time to do all of that tonight, but thanks for the suggestions. Both the 24 pin and the 4 pin are plugged in to my mobo...even if something was not seated correctly, wouldn't the fans at least run?
 
Alright all you PC gurus i'm back and need some help..

After weighing out my options on fixing my busted pc my eyes def got alot bigger than my wallet. Long story short i'm currently using this laptop and was wondering how well it could handle ff14..

I don't do much pc gaming to warrant buying a whole new rig, but if my laptop absolutely wont cut it then I may just go ahead and look into one that will..

I'd love to just run a bench mark test but i'm currently running linux on this and am working on getting another copy of windows

Edit: just realized that link doesnt show any specs...found this:

Intel Core 2 Duo T5750 (2.0 GHz, 2MB L2 cache, 667MHz FSB)
2GB DDR2 SDRAM, 160GB HDD, Slot-Drive 8X DVD+/-RW
 
And an 8400M GS for a video card right? Very unlikely that will run FFXIV at all. You could wait until you're able to run the benchmark if you want, but it's not going to be pretty.
 
Sigh.. I knew it would be a stretch..
looks like I wont be playing until nov!

If I wanted to build a good pc over time, that would def last me, what components should I not go on the cheap side with? I'm guessing go big for the motherboard and processor.. and little by little on the rest?
 
Building a PC over time rarely makes sense. What is the best bang for buck now will be surpassed in three months time. It's really best to build a whole functional PC all at once.

That said, the two easiest parts to cheap out on and upgrade down the road are storage and graphics card. Build a good base PC with minimum storage (500GB drives are cheap as chips) and minimum gaming graphics card (5770 at the moment), and you should be able to upgrade both components easily down the track for good performance boosts. There might be a bit of fiddling around with your OS if you replace your OS drive though.

The initial outlay is going to be more than buying parts here and there, but new hardware depreciates really quickly. Unused hardware sitting on the shelf is a waste of money. You're better off earning interest on it.
 
Trying to understand Intel's plan for the year 2011. i7-930 on 1366 seems to rival the high end sandy bridge processors on 1155 releasing in early 2011. Excluding the GPU you'd probably replace with a standalone anyway. Then they also plan to release LGA 2011 later on the same year?

Looks like 1366/1156/AM3 would tide you over until LGA2011 or AM3+?

Seems like AM3+ could be the best in the year 2011 since it wont have a GPU gimping the effort put into it? Seems like Intel is willing taking a performance hit to push the combination of CPU/GPU since PC gaming isn't progressing that fast right now and the mobile market is booming?

...Or am I totally off base?..
 
Fredescu said:
Building a PC over time rarely makes sense. What is the best bang for buck now will be surpassed in three months time. It's really best to build a whole functional PC all at once.

That said, the two easiest parts to cheap out on and upgrade down the road are storage and graphics card. Build a good base PC with minimum storage (500GB drives are cheap as chips) and minimum gaming graphics card (5770 at the moment), and you should be able to upgrade both components easily down the track for good performance boosts. There might be a bit of fiddling around with your OS if you replace your OS drive though.

The initial outlay is going to be more than buying parts here and there, but new hardware depreciates really quickly. Unused hardware sitting on the shelf is a waste of money. You're better off earning interest on it.


Oh I didnt dive to deep into the story, but basically I fried my mother board on my pc recently and was just thinking of replacing that to something that could still work with my current stuff gpu, ram, etc... and then change everything else down the line...

I didnt mean keep everything in a box and wait... :lol
That's definitely my mistake for not explaining.

I was just couldn't keep myself from going to big when really all I need is something to get me up and running again..
 
Questions!


Is the intel turbo boost feature on by default?
If no, how do I enable it?
Should I enable it or leave it off?
 
So, I spilt tea in my computer.

Yes. Tea.

My case has a fan situated directly on the top, so when my mug of tea spilt over some of it fell through.

My giant CPU heatsink and fan I think managed to save most of my system. As did the grid on the top of the case that caused a lot of the tea to stick to as opposed to dripping through.

Though some did get through. Onto my GPU. At first the computer boot fine, but on reset struggle to get up and running.

I removed it, dabbed the dried stains with water, and dried it like a mother fucker. Unfortunately I'm still unsure as to the extent of the damage. Putting the GPU back in, turning on my system with two resets, and no video signal. Then, on the third reset, it all worked.

I'm afraid to turn my computer off, but moreso I'm wondering if it is indeed the GPU that is likely damaged and not something else. If I only have to replace the GPU, huzzah, but I dont want to replace it only to find out something else is borked.

There goes my 3DS money :(.
 
Dash Kappei said:
No, I meant when rebooting the PC, since I completely shut it off and not ibernate it.
I had the impression you needed to install the drivers as well each and every time, then reboot it and F8 for test mode. Isn't that the case? Won't I need to re-install the drivers when I run the system in normal mode (not test mode)?
If it's just the case to install everything once and then F8 test mode only when I want to use it then it's not so bad.
Do I still need to do everything if I'm going to use it thru USB instead of going bluetooth?
And last but not least, what about games (like crappy Spiderman web of Shadows) where you're forced to play with the X360 controller if you want to use a gamepad?

As far as I know you only have to install the drivers once on each individual USB port you want to connect to. Rebooting without F8 would disable the drivers so I can't say for sure if you go through some reboot cycles and come back if it will pick up the unsigned driver automatically, I would assume it would, I will try it tomorrow. The instruction on the MiJ website start with use over USB and then over BT is optional, however you have to install it for USB via a cord first before using BT. You only need to connect the cord on the first install, after that you can do it all wirelessly. I see in the MiJ software there is an XBOX 360 controller profile so I assume it's for emulating the 360 controller in those lame games that only let you use a 360 controller (Bioshock etc.)
 
Corky said:
Questions!

Is the intel turbo boost feature on by default?
If no, how do I enable it?
Should I enable it or leave it off?

It might be. I had to switch something on in the bios to get it going full speed. I can't remember what that was :lol
 
Shambles said:
As far as I know you only have to install the drivers once on each individual USB port you want to connect to. Rebooting without F8 would disable the drivers so I can't say for sure if you go through some reboot cycles and come back if it will pick up the unsigned driver automatically, I would assume it would, I will try it tomorrow. The instruction on the MiJ website start with use over USB and then over BT is optional, however you have to install it for USB via a cord first before using BT. You only need to connect the cord on the first install, after that you can do it all wirelessly. I see in the MiJ software there is an XBOX 360 controller profile so I assume it's for emulating the 360 controller in those lame games that only let you use a 360 controller (Bioshock etc.)

Thanks mate, I really appreciate your dedication! :D

Yeah, I guess the 360pad emulation is there for that purpose... and it'll probably be the reason why Microsoft will never ever digital sign those drivers :lol
 
Guys, one simple question. My old computer's 8800 died, what would be the more optimal way of replacing it?

It´s a small case with cheap pieces, basically a kind of Frankenstein monster I use to not dump immediately my old hardware when I replace it, but that gives me little room and the new cards are too big for it. Would be better going for another 8800 or would you reccomend anything else on that range of prize/size?
 
DeathNote said:
Trying to understand Intel's plan for the year 2011. i7-930 on 1366 seems to rival the high end sandy bridge processors on 1155 releasing in early 2011. Excluding the GPU you'd probably replace with a standalone anyway. Then they also plan to release LGA 2011 later on the same year?

Looks like 1366/1156/AM3 would tide you over until LGA2011 or AM3+?

Seems like AM3+ could be the best in the year 2011 since it wont have a GPU gimping the effort put into it? Seems like Intel is willing taking a performance hit to push the combination of CPU/GPU since PC gaming isn't progressing that fast right now and the mobile market is booming?

...Or am I totally off base?..
Here's 2 articles on Sandy Bridge.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/3871/the-sandy-bridge-preview-three-wins-in-a-row
http://www.anandtech.com/show/3922/intels-sandy-bridge-architecture-exposed

Basically it's better everything, but not by much. On the plus side, you won't be paying much more, if any at all.
It's a great push for general consumers and price/performance.

As for gaming there was a video of a Sandy Bridge running at 4.9Ghz overclocked, stable, on air. This is ES, so retail chips will probably clock better. The downside to this is that you'll need to buy a "K" series unlocked processor if you want to overclock.

*I don't expect AM3+ CPU's to tear down any walls. I think they will be modest, looking towards value again. I might be wrong, who knows.
Corky said:
Is the intel turbo boost feature on by default?
If no, how do I enable it?
Should I enable it or leave it off?
Should be. Not all CPU's have turbo.
In BIOS
Enabled. If you are at a very high overclock, you'll probably want to disable it.
EatChildren said:
So, I spilt tea in my computer.
How long did you wait until you ran the system again?
I probably would have taken everything apart and ran a blow dryer over all of it and waited at least a day.

If it's working now, you'll probably be fine.
 
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