• Hey Guest. Check out your NeoGAF Wrapped 2025 results here!

"I need a new PC!" 2010 Edition

I picked up Far Cry 2 for $10 on Steam. At max everything I can play with the same performance level at either 900p with 4xAA or 1080p with none. I think I prefer the latter. Am I weird for that?
 
How much of a peformance boost would it be to go from a 4850, 512MB ----> 5850, 1Gig ?

Also im sitting on a E8400 @ 3.0ghz, is it worth upgrading ram, motherboard just to get the i5? , seems the Q9550 would be a wiser choice if you dont have a unlimited budget (witch i dont have)
 
So is DDR3 pretty much the way to go? I remember getting fucked when getting a mobo with DDR right before DDR2 became the standard and that sucked. I don't want that to happen again.
 
Anton668 said:
I thought it had to be 450 or higher?

think im gonna upgrade the vid card to the Sapphire and get the different psu
Nah, they say that to account for really shitty cards. I built my cousin's computer with the exact same 5770 + 400CX and it works fine for her. The Corsair is a good PSU.
 
So I picked up another pair of 1GB sticks. I had the OCZ Gold PC2-6400 rev2, and a local guy had a Platinum rev2 set so I got those. The timings at 400Mhz being a bit tighter is the only difference in the SPD, but they're all running well and passing stress tests at the Gold pair's timings.

But yeah, adding another 2GB in addition to the 5850 upgrade was really worth it. Desktop performance is much snappier, and I can run games at max again :D
 
I'm looking to get into PC gaming again. Are there any HTPC Cases that you can setup with state of the art pc components for gaming that aren't huge and look nicely ? Things I hate is having a big ass chubby plastic box next to my TV. I want it to look like a Blu-Ray player or something. Any suggestions ?
 
ok, i am trying to overclock my processor now (I5 750) and when i use CPU-Z it gives me the following numbers

1002163.png


and sometimes it switches to 2.731 Mhz or so.... any help on how to properly OC this?
this is my motherboard ASUS P7P55D PRO
 
Yea its just the normal cpu throttling now where if its not doing much or idle it clocks and volts down to save energy, if you are going to OC you need to disable it, its probably in the BIOS but I have a Phenom II so I'm not sure how its done on the Intels, but I bet its very similar, just a different name.
 
Well my onboard sound and Audigy 2 ZS both suck incredibly for music. Decided to buy something.

Was only looking at PCI solutions, and the Asus Xonar DS seemed pretty appealing at $50 ($35 after MIR). Nice thing is it has swappable OpAmps, just like the higher end Xonar Essence. Now, I just need to find out where the hell I put the OPA627's I had a few years back. $20 OpAmps are bound to make it sound nice. :)
 
On the subject of overclcoking I wonder if PC-GAF can also help me.

Recently purchased an i7 920 and have it overclocked at 3.8 ghz. I'm using Arctic Silver thermal paste and a Cooler Master Hyper N520:

2ns816x.jpg


Reviews said I could achieve such temperatures at 3.8 ghz:

mn0u2b.gif


However, unfortunately this is far from the case >: I've read i7 temperatures are generally higher than other processors, and the idle temp of a 920 can vary 10c or so depending on the unit. I'm currently idling cores around 49-54c, pushing 70c on all 4 when playing games, and reached a cringe inducing 88c when stress testing. Power settings seem about as low as I can go at this speed and I've checked to make sure the heatsink is set properly.

Any ideas or should I just cave and reduce the clock speed? I've read people achieving 4-4.2 ghz stable with better stress temps than mine >:

edit: wrong chart but I couldn't find the i7 920 one in question :lol Results were very similar though, I'd like to reduce my min/max by like 10c :S

edit 2: current readings-

2dl3wg9.jpg
 
Canti said:
Any ideas or should I just cave and reduce the clock speed? I've read people achieving 4-4.2 ghz stable with better stress temps than mine >:

edit: wrong chart but I couldn't find the i7 920 one in question :lol Results were very similar though, I'd like to reduce my min/max by like 10c :S

If everything looks ok on the CPU fan/heatsink, what about case air flow, ambient room temps, case temps, etc?
 
Are i7's supposed to run that hot? The thermal spec is listed at 67.9C. I wouldn't want to pass that by more than 5C or so on any regular basis.

As for your abnormally high temps, I can only sympathize. My E6600 also ran abnormally hot. Even with a Zalman 9700LED, I idled at 55C and went up to 65C under load. The CPU wouldn't even run with the stock cooler. My friend had the very same issue. I don't know if it was an abnormally curved CPU, or a bad heatsink, but it was definitely out of the ordinary.

Now, my Q8300 @ 3.0GHz idles at 35C and goes up to 50C under full load (with my CPU fan spinning at a mere 300rpm at idle and 800rpm under load).
 
SuperEnemyCrab said:
If everything looks ok on the CPU fan/heatsink, what about case air flow, ambient room temps, case temps, etc?
My case is pretty old, lack of ventilation probably upping temps by 5c or so >: Ambient room temp around 25c, system temp is reading 59c :s that bad?

If I clock down to 3.2 i drop into the 40-65c range, but I'm greedy :lol

Maybe I was just unlucky on the draw with the cpu.
 
TheExodu5 said:
No video card requires 30a on the 12v rail.


Sure they'll 'run', but you'll never be able to effectively troubleshoot anything.

Doesn't the 5870 call for 40a-50a? Of course you wouldn't have to have that to get it on and playing games. It could probably 'run' forever on as little as an 18a rail. The list of things sketchy power draw can do to your system is pretty long though.

If something ever went wrong or underperformed you couldn't even start to legitimately troubleshoot it without getting a PSU in the recommended spec.


It's not even a big dollar item to upgrade and it should be the most robust part of any build. Dump those OCZ joints and spend the extra $40 to get something decent. Corsair isn't the only one obviously, but since they don't make a cheapo model, it's an easy brand to recommend to people since you don't have to attach a model number to it.
 
kamspy said:
Sure they'll 'run', but you'll never be able to effectively troubleshoot anything.

Doesn't the 5870 call for 40a-50a? Of course you wouldn't have to have that to get it on and playing games. It could probably 'run' forever on as little as an 18a rail. The list of things sketchy power draw can do to your system is pretty long though.

If something ever went wrong or underperformed you couldn't even start to legitimately troubleshoot it without getting a PSU in the recommended spec.


It's not even a big dollar item to upgrade and it should be the most robust part of any build. Dump those OCZ joints and spend the extra $40 to get something decent. Corsair isn't the only one obviously, but since they don't make a cheapo model, it's an easy brand to recommend to people since you don't have to attach a model number to it.

OCZ use cheap component. I'm not debating that. The point is, there are PSUs that are just as good or better than Corsairs. Enermax use better components and have better power efficiency, for example. My 625W modular Enermax has 2x 25A 12V rails, has better power efficiency, and is quieter than any Corsair PSU. It also uses Japanese capacitors. I payed for it though ($150).

I'd still say Corsairs are the best of the bunch when it comes to price/performance. They use good components, have a single 12V rail (so no issues with cheap PSUs that split the rails unevenly), and are very quiet as they are made by Seasonic. The downside to such a large 12V rail is that running it near max can be considered dangerous. A properly PSU with separate 12V rails is better, but like I said, many cheap PSU manufacturers split them unevenly, which can starve components depending on which rail you are running.

And no, the 5870 most certainly does not call for 40-50a on the 12V rail.

Power%20Consumption.png


As you can see, even if the entire system was situated on the 12V rail (which it is not), it would use less than 30A. The HD 5870 can only use up a maximum of 3x 75W (PCIe + 2x power connectors), which is 225W, or 18.75A on the 12V rail.

If you're running dual GPUs, like the extreme case of the 2x GTX 285, I'd recommend a properly split 12V rail over a single 12V rail. Running 50A on one rail is going to be dangerous business.
 
Having extra amperage isn't dangerous today.

They only began the practice of virtually splitting rails because of poor part quality causing fires. Today any PSU with a big rail is going to be well made so it's not really a concern.

Power draw is always going to be debatable into infinity, but I think we both agree that the PSU is the last place to skimp.

Reading through this thread and last year's it seems like the average person sees the PSU as the first place to skimp.

IMO, priority should be:

PSU
Motherboard
Case
RAM
CPU
GPU


It's the exact opposite of what the average first time builder does, and should probably be stressed a little more in the thread.
 
I agree, don't skimp. I'm just saying that your statement that Corsair is the only viable PSU manufacturer is erroneous.

edit: if ever you're wondering if a PSU is of good quality, look no further than HardOCP reviews. They subject their PSUs to "torture tests" under heavy or full load. The lower end PSUs simply fail the tests (including most OCZ PSUs).
 
TheExodu5 said:
I agree, don't skimp. I'm just saying that your statement that Corsair is the only viable PSU manufacturer is erroneous.

I probably should have rephrased it. Basic message was meant to be "don't buy a PSU with shitty rails". Corsair kinda idiot-proofs that process for anyone who doesn't know how to read power ratings (by virtue of not making having a crap model available).
 
so I have an ASUSTek P5N-SLI motherboard and 2 8800 GT cards and I really wish to upgrade to a single but more powerful video card (didn't find SLI to be worth the price to be honest). What do you guys recommend? I am open to both ATI and NVIDIA suggestions :D

Also, I have an intel core 2 quad q6600 (2.4Ghz) and wish to OC it. What's the best tool for the job?

EDIT: regarding the video card suggestion, budget is not a problem :D
 
ridley182 said:
so I have an ASUSTek P5N-SLI motherboard and 2 8800 GT cards and I really wish to upgrade to a single but more powerful video card (didn't find SLI to be worth the price to be honest). What do you guys recommend? I am open to both ATI and NVIDIA suggestions :D

Also, I have an intel core 2 quad q6600 (2.4Ghz) and wish to OC it. What's the best tool for the job?

EDIT: regarding the video card suggestion, budget is not a problem :D

How much vRAM do those cards have?

5870 is the best out right now, but I don't know what kind of performance increases you'd see. I'm also not very sure how Nvidia is ironing out SLI. When I used it things were pretty sketchy from game to game. Assuming SLI has improved I think you're at a sweet spot right now. I'd wait for the second gen of DX11 cards personally.


Post some average benchmarks for common games and we can try to see if it's even worth it right now.
 
I narrowed down my video card issues to DX11 related stuff. Stalker COP benchmark is ok, Battlefield BC2 is ok but Dirt 2 and Heaven benchmark all cause those weird artifacts I linked to a page back.

Its looking like Im going to have to RMA this card. Anyone know how fast Sapphires RMA turnaround is?

My mobo has no on board graphics so this PC is pretty much useless while I RMA. I guess Im stuck with my laptop til then.
 
I am considering making the switch from consoles to PC so I am planning to buy a new PC this month and this is the best offer that I found so far:

INTEL CORE I7 920 2.66GHZ 8MB S-1366
ASUS P6T DELUXE V2 X58 S-1366 ATX
ZOTAC GEFORCE GTX 260 AMP! EDITION 896MB GDDR3 PCI-E DVI
CORSAIR 6GB DDR3 XMS3 INTEL I7 9XX PC10666 1333MHZ (3X2GB)
WESTERN DIGITAL CAVIAR GREEN 1TB SATA/300 32MB
ACE MIDITOWER GAME EDGE 990 ATX BLACK
Cooler Master Silent PRO 850 Watt
LG DVD±RW 22x Double Layer

1,660.881 USD

Its quite expensive but thats how electronics are in Sweden. If I don't find a better price I think I will go with this one, but if I find a store online in Europe that ships to Sweden then that will help me a lot.
 
Anaxagoras said:
I am considering making the switch from consoles to PC so I am planning to buy a new PC this month and this is the best offer that I found so far:

INTEL CORE I7 920 2.66GHZ 8MB S-1366
ASUS P6T DELUXE V2 X58 S-1366 ATX
ZOTAC GEFORCE GTX 260 AMP! EDITION 896MB GDDR3 PCI-E DVI
CORSAIR 6GB DDR3 XMS3 INTEL I7 9XX PC10666 1333MHZ (3X2GB)
WESTERN DIGITAL CAVIAR GREEN 1TB SATA/300 32MB
ACE MIDITOWER GAME EDGE 990 ATX BLACK
Cooler Master Silent PRO 850 Watt
LG DVD±RW 22x Double Layer

1,660.881 USD

Its quite expensive but thats how electronics are in Sweden. If I don't find a better price I think I will go with this one, but if I find a store online in Europe that ships to Sweden then that will help me a lot.

How much are you paying for the CPU, GPU and RAM?
 
Decisions...

So apparently I've done something dumb and half fried my Q6600 by not cleaning out the HSF for a really long time. It still works but not under load. Apparently it had been idling at 95C because the fan couldn't get air into the heat sink... man, I feel dumb for letting that happen!

Question is... do I get something like a Q8400 when an i5 750 costs a tiny bit more, even though it'll require a new motherboard and RAM too?

Money isn't really an issue here.
 
kamspy said:
How much are you paying for the CPU, GPU and RAM?
CPU: 377.597 USD
GPU: 268.561 USD
RAM: 255.133 USD

I also found this website on the first page, it seems like its the only one that ships abroad but the order has to be done through the phone. if the components are dispatched from UK then I don't have to pay an extra 2% taxes when I receive them here in Sweden.
 
Ok Im going to stop harping about this but I have one more question:

Amazon just contacted me and said theyll replace my Sapphire 5850. Ill have the new card on Monday. Can I just straight up swap the cards since theyre identical types/brands/manufacturers? Or should I driver sweep again, install the new one, and then reinstall CCC and the latest drivers?
 
Salaadin said:
Ok Im going to stop harping about this but I have one more question:

Amazon just contacted me and said theyll replace my Sapphire 5850. Ill have the new card on Monday. Can I just straight up swap the cards since theyre identical types/brands/manufacturers? Or should I driver sweep again, install the new one, and then reinstall CCC and the latest drivers?

Just driver sweep to be safe. If you still get the flickering, it's a driver issue or something. I remember Heaven having flickering issues with ati drivers, but not Dirt 2. I ran both on the same card, and I get zero flickering with 10.1.
 
yaay? i went back after a little break and started the OC process from scratch and this is what i got. i didn't want to push things until i was sure i wouldnt fry my CPU

1002981.png
qxw9xf.png
[/IMG]

I have the corsair H50 as a cooler do those temps look good? can i push the OC further?
 
Anaxagoras said:
I am considering making the switch from consoles to PC so I am planning to buy a new PC this month and this is the best offer that I found so far:

INTEL CORE I7 920 2.66GHZ 8MB S-1366
ASUS P6T DELUXE V2 X58 S-1366 ATX
ZOTAC GEFORCE GTX 260 AMP! EDITION 896MB GDDR3 PCI-E DVI
CORSAIR 6GB DDR3 XMS3 INTEL I7 9XX PC10666 1333MHZ (3X2GB)
WESTERN DIGITAL CAVIAR GREEN 1TB SATA/300 32MB
ACE MIDITOWER GAME EDGE 990 ATX BLACK
Cooler Master Silent PRO 850 Watt
LG DVD±RW 22x Double Layer

1,660.881 USD

Its quite expensive but thats how electronics are in Sweden. If I don't find a better price I think I will go with this one, but if I find a store online in Europe that ships to Sweden then that will help me a lot.

I would go with a cheaper Core i5 750 and Socket 1156 board, and spend that extra money on a better GPU, like a Radeon HD 5850.

evil solrac v3.0 said:
yaay? i went back after a little break and started the OC process from scratch and this is what i got. i didn't want to push things until i was sure i wouldnt fry my CPU

1002981.png
qxw9xf.png
[/IMG]

I have the corsair H50 as a cooler do those temps look good? can i push the OC further?

Your temps are ice cold. You can push it up to 67C or so and still be within spec.
 
Anaxagoras said:
I am considering making the switch from consoles to PC so I am planning to buy a new PC this month and this is the best offer that I found so far:

INTEL CORE I7 920 2.66GHZ 8MB S-1366
ASUS P6T DELUXE V2 X58 S-1366 ATX
ZOTAC GEFORCE GTX 260 AMP! EDITION 896MB GDDR3 PCI-E DVI
CORSAIR 6GB DDR3 XMS3 INTEL I7 9XX PC10666 1333MHZ (3X2GB)
WESTERN DIGITAL CAVIAR GREEN 1TB SATA/300 32MB
ACE MIDITOWER GAME EDGE 990 ATX BLACK
Cooler Master Silent PRO 850 Watt
LG DVD±RW 22x Double Layer

1,660.881 USD

Its quite expensive but thats how electronics are in Sweden. If I don't find a better price I think I will go with this one, but if I find a store online in Europe that ships to Sweden then that will help me a lot.
You should swap that HDD for a samsung spinpoint. Western digital green drives aren't suited for OS use.

That power supply is overkill. I'd personally go with a 650w corsair or antec PSU.

Also as exodus said, going with a intel i5 750 will save you money, to improve that gpu to a 5850. Or a SSD drive for your OS. Whatever you prefer.
 
TheExodu5 said:
I would go with a cheaper Core i5 750 and Socket 1156 board, and spend that extra money on a better GPU, like a Radeon HD 5850.



Your temps are ice cold. You can push it up to 67C or so and still be within spec.


nice. how do i make sure everything is "stable" more or less. i just finished running OCCT and everything seems allright...
 
evil solrac v3.0 said:
nice. how do i make sure everything is "stable" more or less. i just finished running OCCT and everything seems allright...

Seems like you've already done that. I'm assuming OCCT is a stress/stability test.
 
Genius said:
I'm looking to get into PC gaming again. Are there any HTPC Cases that you can setup with state of the art pc components for gaming that aren't huge and look nicely ? Things I hate is having a big ass chubby plastic box next to my TV. I want it to look like a Blu-Ray player or something. Any suggestions ?

I (and Tech Report as well) like this personally:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...chReport&cm_mmc=OTC-TechReport-_-NA-_-NA-_-NA

Really tiny but comes with an excellent and effecient PSU, is cheap as chips, has great airflow and can support a 5770 if you want it to. You'll want to pair it with one of Zotac's m-itx boards, personally I'd wait on their new H55 board to hit, its literally perfect for what you're after:

http://www.zotac.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&view=wrapper&Itemid=100026&lang=en

Throw in a core-i3 530, 4GB DDR3, A 5770, 1TB Samsung F3, slimline DVDRW (possibly a BD-ROM combi?) and you're looking at a tiny, cheap and awesome little gaming rig that really sacrifices nothing.

Read up on this link for a little more info on the Silverstone case, its definitely the one to go for imo, you'd be sacrificing on the PSU or GPU support otherwise.

http://techreport.com/articles.x/17102/10

http://techreport.com/discussions.x/17120

1qpleh.jpg



TheExodu5 said:
Seems like you've already done that. I'm assuming OCCT is a stress/stability test.

Yup, and the best and most fully featured one out there, everyone should be using it imo. Prmie95/Orthos just doesn't cut it these days.
 
Anaxagoras said:
I am considering making the switch from consoles to PC so I am planning to buy a new PC this month and this is the best offer that I found so far:

INTEL CORE I7 920 2.66GHZ 8MB S-1366
ASUS P6T DELUXE V2 X58 S-1366 ATX
ZOTAC GEFORCE GTX 260 AMP! EDITION 896MB GDDR3 PCI-E DVI
CORSAIR 6GB DDR3 XMS3 INTEL I7 9XX PC10666 1333MHZ (3X2GB)
WESTERN DIGITAL CAVIAR GREEN 1TB SATA/300 32MB
ACE MIDITOWER GAME EDGE 990 ATX BLACK
Cooler Master Silent PRO 850 Watt
LG DVD±RW 22x Double Layer

1,660.881 USD

Its quite expensive but thats how electronics are in Sweden. If I don't find a better price I think I will go with this one, but if I find a store online in Europe that ships to Sweden then that will help me a lot.


The GTX 260 was a great card but its stupidly overpriced these days, get a 5850 instead, not a huge increase in price but it utterly trashes it.

An i5-750 + 1156 motherboard + 4GB DDR3 will actually net you better gaming performance but save you a whole stack of cash.

An 850 watt PSU is just crazy overkill. A 500w PSU is enough for any single GPU rig but if you want the option for dual GPUs then 650w will do you fine. Stick with a decent brand as always.

Caviar Greens are super slow, get a Smasung F3 instead, or at least a Caviar Black


Basically, change pretty much everything! :lol


evil solrac v3.0 said:
yaay? i went back after a little break and started the OC process from scratch and this is what i got. i didn't want to push things until i was sure i wouldnt fry my CPU

1002981.png
qxw9xf.png
[/IMG]

I have the corsair H50 as a cooler do those temps look good? can i push the OC further?

You've got shitloads of headroom there, keep on going.
 
The 5850 is your only option and its not worth it imo. What games are causing your GTX 260 a problem, like? Your lack of a quad core CPU is a much bigger priority imo. I'd say a Q9400 + a decent air cooler would be a decent use of funds.
 
I mainly play Flight Simulator which is mainly CPU dependant, but they coded both of them (2004 and X) so bad that they don't really take advantage of the extra cores. FSX uses them to some degree, but not to the extent they could be. Also, I would like to be able to play the newer games that are coming out this year.

I also have a Freezer 7 Pro installed on this processor, even though I haven't O/C'ed it. (Not like i'm 100% sure how) Would that be sufficent to O/C the q9400 to 3.0ghz?
 
Mobius1B7R said:
I mainly play Flight Simulator which is mainly CPU dependant, but they coded both of them (2004 and X) so bad that they don't really take advantage of the extra cores. FSX uses them to some degree, but not to the extent they could be. Also, I would like to be able to play the newer games that are coming out this year.

So there's nothing that you're currently playing that would have any noticeable benefit from a GPU upgrade? Then don't upgrade, you're spending money for the sake of it.

A Freezer 7 should get a Q9400 to 3ghz no bother, you'll be able to manage more besides so long as your RAM is upto it. OCing 775 chips is a piece of piss and there's shedloads of help out there, anyone that can build a PC can manage it imo.
 
Just came across some news I thought I'd share. AMD's new six core processors have finally been named as Phenom ii X6 processors (no surprises there then) and they'll be including AMD's own implementation of Intel's "turbo boost" which is a really great development in my eyes. They'll be compatible with both AM3 and AM2+ boards that support current AM3 processors which is pretty damn awesome if you ask me, AMD have really been excellent in providing great upgrade paths.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/news/cpu/di...rs_to_Get_Dynamic_Speed_Boost_Technology.html
 
brain_stew said:
[...]They'll be compatible with both AM3 and AM2+ boards that support current AM3 processors which is pretty damn awesome if you ask me, AMD have really been excellent in providing great upgrade paths.
Excellent indeed.
 
Pretty sure I'm going to leave this as my q6600'S 24/7 OC:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1003579

1.28v under load and never tops 60C with my CPU cooler remaining whisper quiet and is rock solid stable after extensive testing. I can get it stable at higher clocks but the voltage ramps up completely disproportionately, as do the temps (this is an old £15 cooler afterall).

Very pleased with the upgrade.
 
How do I update my chipset? I got the download for the "Intel INF Update" utility biut I cant find it once its installed...its like it doesnt exist. I got the download from the Intel website as well and once again, I cant find this updater once its installed.

ANy ideas?
 
I have a somewhat unique question about what the best parts would be for a reasonable price, but since I'll be carrying over a few things from my old PC, I don't need to factor that in.

I'm thinking the only things I'll need are a cpu and motherboard, maybe ram (I have 4 gigs that I could carry over, and I dont think I'll go to W7 64 yet), case, and whatever I need to help cool that case. Is there a rough estimate of how much that would all cost.
 
Finally got my tax return, so I'm just about ready to place my order for the last few parts that I need. I've already gotten an Athlon II x3, Gigabyte Mobo from the OP, Hyper 212, and a few other odds and ends. Thinking of grabbing these to round out the build:


SeaSonic SS-500ES Bronze 500W ATX12V v2.31 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

HIS H577FM1GD Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP OCZ AMD Black Edition 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)

Couple of questions:
Will the Seasonic SS-500ES (500W) be enough to power an sizeably overclocked AMD quad and modestly overclocked 5770 with one HDD and one optical drive?

Should I avoid OCZ RAM Platinum/Gold/Black since it looks like the reviews on newegg suggest they don't play nice with AMD systems?

Anyone know of a good etailer for RAM since newegg is quoting me almost $350 before rebates. Would like ti spend around $300 if possible.

Will a VGA cable with DVI adapter provide just as good of a signal as DVI?
 
Top Bottom