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"I need a new PC!" 2010 Edition
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Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
My current rig is
E6750 @ 3.2GHZ
4GB Ram
8800GTs in SLI
If I can only upgrade on thing, what should it be and what should I replace it with?
E6750 @ 3.2GHZ
4GB Ram
8800GTs in SLI
If I can only upgrade on thing, what should it be and what should I replace it with?
brain_stew
Member
Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
I'd probably stump up for a cheap Q6600 and clock the tits off it. Depends on whether you're finding SLI a pita or not though, tbf. If you don't mind the quirks of an SLI setup then upgrading your CPU is definitely the way to go imo.
Quick question for GAF
From two pages ago... about to order a new part from Newegg, so please respond with at least a bit of advice or assurance if possible
Posted 2 pages ago (no response):
I tried a different PSU, no luck. I really am out of luck given my knowledge
Didn't get any responses earlier, so I decided to go with a bad mobo and try to return it to Newegg... hopefully a new one works out. I have *not* sent it yet though. Does this sound like the right choice to anybody on GAF? It's been killing me having put together a nonfunctional computer. Especially since my other computer is on its very last leg... (currently posting from it with a very gimpy setup...)
Before the postal service receives it... does anybody agree with this choice? Could it be something else before I send off the old mobo back to newegg?
From two pages ago... about to order a new part from Newegg, so please respond with at least a bit of advice or assurance if possible
Posted 2 pages ago (no response):
Sklorenz said:OK guys, I'm hving some trouble with the computer I just built:
- No signal detected on my monitor
- The front panel stuff is not working (speaker, LED lights) but it powers on.. but obviously I'm not getting post beeps
Here was my build per Neogaf and Techradar (sans the monitor, picked that up myself):
Processor - AMD Athlon II X4 635
Motherboard - MSI 870
Memory - Crucial 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR3-1333
Graphics - Sapphire Radeon HD 5670
Storage - F3 500GB
Drive - Samsung SH-S223L
Enclosure - CoolerMaster 310 / 320 / 330 case
Power supply - Antec EarthWatts Green 380W
Monitor - MNTR EMACHINE|LCD 23" 5MS E233HBD
The fans all come on. The 4 LED lights on my mobo light up, which according to the manual supposedly means the mobo is fine.
-I have confirmed that the monitor does work (plugged it into my laptop using the same cable + a converter to my laptop)
-Everything seems to be securely attached in its proper place, as per the manual (VGA card in the x16 pci-e slot, RAM in the correct slots, etc, all power and data cables seem to be in)
-I have tried booting it with just one stick of memory, and I've switched both out
-I've tried a different graphics card, and it didn't help
-I've tried booting it with the drives detached
-The motherboard IS on its risers, and I've tried to boot it from outside the case, so it's not grounding itself on anything in the case
So what is most likely the issue? Bad processor or motherboard? Bad/weak PSU? I haven't tried using the PSU that came with the case yet (perhaps I should try that next?)
I really have no clue GAF. I've done what troubleshooting I can, but I'm really no pro at this. What else can I do to try and diagnose it?
Also, will Newegg reimburse me for whatever the problem ends up being? I'd hate to have just bought a 100 dollar paperweight... I don't know, maybe I wasn't gentle enough with something (though I tried to be extremely cautious, touching metal on my case almost constantly).
Please help GAF, this is sooo frustrating
Edit: I own a multimeter, but I've never used it on anything as complex looking as the innards of a computer (just used it a couple times while working on my car), but yeah.. if a multimeter check would be useful somewhere or someway, I could try that..
I tried a different PSU, no luck. I really am out of luck given my knowledge
Didn't get any responses earlier, so I decided to go with a bad mobo and try to return it to Newegg... hopefully a new one works out. I have *not* sent it yet though. Does this sound like the right choice to anybody on GAF? It's been killing me having put together a nonfunctional computer. Especially since my other computer is on its very last leg... (currently posting from it with a very gimpy setup...)Before the postal service receives it... does anybody agree with this choice? Could it be something else before I send off the old mobo back to newegg?
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
brain_stew said:
I've had SLI for 3 years now and have no complaints with it. I just wasn't sure how 8800GT stack up to recent cards and if that or my processor was holding me back more.
RurouniZel
Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
kagete said:
To be honest, I don't follow. Below the color?
MrBelmontvedere
Member
RurouniZel said:
I believe that was a typo for cooler
Zaraki_Kenpachi
Member
RurouniZel said:
He meant to type cooler, and he wants you to put it on the other side of the cooler. But don't do that since you're then blowing hot air into your power supply.
The Big Rig
Member
Does his case have a side vent he could put a fan on? That would help get rid of the hot air coming from your cooler.Zaraki_Kenpachi said:
Mr Nightman
Banned
damn that cooler is bigger than i thought, is your ram half height? I want this cooler but am doubting it will fitRurouniZel said:Starting to take shape.
RurouniZel said:
Whoops thanks for covering for my typo guys. Yeah i definitely meant to say cooler. And, it would be best if you rotated it 90 degrees to face towards your exhaust like everyone else suggested. My bad, I was in a hurry while typing so I didn't really notice your case didn't have vents up top
Sklorenz said:Quick question for GAFI tried a different PSU, no luck. I really am out of luck given my knowledge
Before the postal service receives it... does anybody agree with this choice? Could it be something else before I send off the old mobo back to newegg?
If it isn't something silly like the motherboard has an integrated graphics solution (which would be on by default so you'd have to connect the monitor to that port first and disable it via BIOS) or maybe the power cabling to the video card not being fully inserted, then yeah. May just be a bad PCI-E slot.
RurouniZel
Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
kagete said:
I posted about that earlier, how I couldn't get it to turn around the right way to face the side because the retention piece wouldn't open up all the way to reach the screw holes. It's either up toward the power supply or down toward the cards...
Also I have a question about the power supply cords. I can see the main cord that comes out of the power supply that goes on the right side of the board (the biggest one), and attached (right next to it) is a 4 prong one shaped like a square. However, the square hole is clear across the board. Can I undo the cover of that part of the cord and split them apart so they fit in both? Do I only need one or the other?
RurouniZel said:
Ideally, you want the most air to be going across the fins (which are dissipating all the heat coming off your CPU). You don't want the fan to be on one side of the cooler drawing air through the other side of the fins - spin the fan around so it is directly blowing through the fins. If you get another fan (I don't know if that one has brackets for both sides) you can then set the second one up to draw air through the other side.
As for the power cable, that 4-pin is not for your CPU. You'll find a different cable that should have its own line directly from the PSU with a 4-pin on the end - use that for your CPU power. The 4-pin that is attached to the 20-pin cable is for motherboards that have a 24-pin power connection; you'd just match the ends together and plug the whole thing in, and if you have a 20-pin connector you can just hide the unused 4-pin somewhere in the case.
RurouniZel said:
Well generally the fan will be more efficient pushing air into the cooler (and out your exhaust) rather than pulling air so I recommended you reoriented it so it pointed upwards (which is incorrect since the hot air won't go anywhere and will still be in your case. I know the 212 is a bitch to setup but the best way to orient it in your case is 90 degrees from your current and pointing towards your rear exhaust fan
RurouniZel
Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
Wallach said:
Ah thanks. So, if I leave the fan the way it is now, it will blow down through the cooler and away from the PSU yes?
I found it, but there are two 4 pin connectors. One that was 4P and one that says 4+. Is the 4+ for boards that have 8 or something?
kagete said:
I really really tried to get it that way, but it just wouldn't line up with the screws at all. It was physically impossible, I tried for an hour.
EDIT: AHH! I just realized when I put the cord in that my board is a 24 connector!! Should I unplug the other 4 pin power connector on the far left side of the board, or leave it plugged in?
RurouniZel said:
:lol
You need both plugged in. The one on the other side of the board is the one that feeds directly to your CPU. The one that is attached to the 20-pin cable is the one you should plug into the remaining 4 spots still open next to the 20-pin cable (my guess is that is the one labeled "4+" as in "4+20"). The other 4-pin should be completely solo from the 4-pin to the PSU and that should plug in on the other side near your CPU somewhere.
RurouniZel
Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
Wallach said:
Ah okay, hopefully I did that right *prays*
Last piece, the video card, after that I'm starting her up and installing Windows. Is there anything I should do in my BIOS first, or can that wait until Windows is all set up?
-COOLIO- said:
See drama on previous page. Sadly it can't be done.
toastyToast
Member
So are the fans on heatsinks intakes or exhausts?
I was sure it was an intake but now I'm concerned my fan is facing the wrong way.
I was sure it was an intake but now I'm concerned my fan is facing the wrong way.
Wow. That is definitely not an ideal component layout. When I mentioned earlier about having your fan blowing up (South-North), I meant having the fan situated beneath the cooler. I was also saying that it was best suited to cases that had a top exhaust. With a tower-style cooler that is oriented that way, you don't want it to blow from the top to the bottom of the case. It's counter-productive and goes against the natural flow of things.RurouniZel said:Starting to take shape.
Personally, I never recommend standard orientation ATX cases that have a top PSU location, unless you have one of the following:
- The PSU is cordoned off like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112242
- The PSU has an exhaust fan, instead of an intake fan like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371034
- It's for a lower-end build that doesn't generate much heat
- The PSU has an exhaust fan, instead of an intake fan like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371034
- It's for a lower-end build that doesn't generate much heat
As is, your PSU will be gulping up heated air exhausted from your HSF and other PC components. Eventually this will reduce the operating life of your PSU, because the 120mm rear exhaust wont be the only thing drawing out hot air.
Don't mean to worry you, I'm just trying to help you get the best out of your PC.
The Hyper 212+ can be placed in a standard orientation on an AMD socket and you'd be best served going with that set-up for a case layout like yours.
Take a look at the video, pics, and guide below:
Hyper 212 Plus installation on Phenom II X2 550 BE and TA790GX A3+
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQl5WH48Seo
Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus AMD Installation & Clearance
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...yper-212-plus-amd-installation-clearance.html
I don't know how good that case exhaust is, but try it out, see how your CPU and system temps are in gaming, stress-tests, idle, general day-to-day activities, etc. If they seem a bit warmer than you'd like, you can eventually replace the exhaust fan for a unit with higher airflow. Just read-up, ask around and you can find good fans that move a lot of air whie still being relatively quite.
Good luck.
BigBlackGamer
Member
I've wondered the same myself. uncharted on pc would be epic.
RurouniZel
Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
Well, it's installing Windows 7 at the moment. I'll have to try and address the cooler tomorrow. Is it hard to reinstall?
I think mu board must be different from the boards pictured above because I SWEAR I tried everything to get it to open up, but it wouldn't go far enough to reach the screws...
How hard is it to reinstall a heat sink?
I think mu board must be different from the boards pictured above because I SWEAR I tried everything to get it to open up, but it wouldn't go far enough to reach the screws...
How hard is it to reinstall a heat sink?
I fail so hard...
-COOLIO-
The Everyman
i paid for assembly then took it all apart to install that very heatsink a week later.RurouniZel said:Well, it's installing Windows 7 at the moment. I'll have to try and address the cooler tomorrow. Is it hard to reinstall?
I think mu board must be different from the boards pictured above because I SWEAR I tried everything to get it to open up, but it wouldn't go far enough to reach the screws...
How hard is it to reinstall a heat sink?
I fail so hard...
i fail harder.
unless you have to change the orientation on the plate below the mobo it's easy to take it off and reinstall it. in fact ill probably do it tomorrow to reapply my grease. i think i messed up before.
RurouniZel
Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
-COOLIO- said:
Okay. Maybe I'll try again now while I'm thinking about it.
EDIT: I don't believe it! I did it! How in the...
Well the fan is on the right side now, closer to the RAM so that it'll blow toward the vent in the back.
Yeah I suck hard.:lol
Everything's a learning experience. No one here was as well versed during their first build as they are now.RurouniZel said:
It's all in how you situate the "x" bracket since it opens and closes. IIRC, the cooler manual states that the bracket shouldn't be placed in certain ways. Take a look at that guide above and anything else you can come across online to help you get it set correctly.RurouniZel said:Well, it's installing Windows 7 at the moment. I'll have to try and address the cooler tomorrow. Is it hard to reinstall?
I think mu board must be different from the boards pictured above because I SWEAR I tried everything to get it to open up, but it wouldn't go far enough to reach the screws...
How hard is it to reinstall a heat sink?
Even with a smaller case, you should be able to remove the HSF w/o having to take out the entire motherboard. Just remove the fan first, take out the sink and try doing a few different test fittings of the x bracket (not screwed in, just hovering above the mount holes to see which way to line them up). Also, remember to clean the CPU and HSF contact surfaces anytime you remove your cooler. Then reapply the thermal material and re-seat the cooler.
BotoxAgent
Member
-COOLIO- said:
I haven't played RE5 on the PC yet, but Bad Company 2 in 1080 looks pretty damn good!
RurouniZel
Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
-COOLIO- said:grats
Thanks. It's weird how I just couldn't figure that out the first time... >.<
Now I have a new "issue". I decided instead of using the DVI to VGA connector, I'd hook up my new ATI Sapphire 5770 via HDMI, and now the text is a little fuzzy and it doesn't fill up my monitor at 1080P. There's a black bar around the entire monitor. It's weird, should I switch back, or is there a way to fix this?
Also, what should I use to test my speeds, temperatures etc.?
Just noticed that you edited your last post about a minute after I replied. Congrats on solving that.
With the HDMI, go into the display settings for your card and monitor to make sure that both have the correct output/input. 1080p with proper scanning from your monitor, and the latest drivers for your display and GPU.
For PC monitoring, try stuff like Hardware Monitor, CPU-Z, GPU-Z, SpeedFan, Speccy, RealTemp, or Core Temp.
With the HDMI, go into the display settings for your card and monitor to make sure that both have the correct output/input. 1080p with proper scanning from your monitor, and the latest drivers for your display and GPU.
For PC monitoring, try stuff like Hardware Monitor, CPU-Z, GPU-Z, SpeedFan, Speccy, RealTemp, or Core Temp.
RurouniZel
Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
·feist· said:
It's weird, I set the computer a resolution lower (1680 x 1050) and it nearly completely filled the screen. So I went back to 1920 x 1080 and the black bars reappeared again.
Is HDMI much better than VGA? If not, I'll just switch back to VGA...
RurouniZel
Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
-COOLIO- said:
Yep, I ran the disc and downloaded the latest drivers and restarted my computer. No dice.
I'll try again tomorrow, it's already 4 in the morning! :lol :lol
Milpool
Member
RurouniZel said:
Just to make sure, you don't need to run the disk and download the latest drivers. Always just get the latest from amd's site. The scaling options in CCC are well hidden, in CCC drop down menu you have to go on "Desktops & Displays", then your monitor should be listed at the bottom, click on the tiny black arrow and select configure and there should be some scaling options to mess with.
IrishNinja
Member
Fredescu said:
little late to reply, but thanks again man. ive asked/checked specs in those threads, and it looks like more than just SMG 1/2, Black Stallion (OP of that one) and a few in there said you should really set your sights on 3+mhz to get the most out of it.
which got me thinking: maybe i'm going about this all wrong. if want i want is a high-end, but specific rig for playing steam, forthcoming big PC titles, and run PCSX2/dolphin smooth as butter while at home and able to take to work/etc, mebbe i should just grab an HTPC or something likewise small/more portable? both locations have a monitor to hook into, could get a lot more bang for my buck that way, just not sure where to start for cases/setup.
i recall you saying it's not worth it for current desktop setups to go dualcore right now, but a) again if im looking to run those emulators at/above 3mhz, isnt that my only option, since neither utilizes quads yet? and b) would that make the project that much cheaper? im told good dualcores are still said to run current PC/forthcoming pc titles, if i have a solid board, DDR3, and a really good GPU i should be solid here, no? im figuring if i went this route, the biggest limiting factor might be what i could fit in such a case (likely not room for dual GPUs, HDDs, multiple RAM slots etc im guessing?). GAF can you recommend any cases/setups for portable desktops?
god damnit man xD my awful OCD personality does NOT go well with highend pc gaming :lol
On the consoles if something started crawling to a halt performancewise all you can do is shrug it off and keep playing. It's not like you got any options, there's nothing you can do.
on the pc however.....if something as much as hints at a drop in fps I freak out and run like 15 benchmarks and sit on tomwhardware for 2h hours analyzing data[insert science montage].. fuck me hahaha.
Need to be strong! *focus corky focus on the good things*
On the consoles if something started crawling to a halt performancewise all you can do is shrug it off and keep playing. It's not like you got any options, there's nothing you can do.
on the pc however.....if something as much as hints at a drop in fps I freak out and run like 15 benchmarks and sit on tomwhardware for 2h hours analyzing data[insert science montage].. fuck me hahaha.
Need to be strong! *focus corky focus on the good things*
Danne-Danger
Member
Quick question, memory that says "specifically for P55 i7/i5" will still work perfectly for AMD and/or other stuff right?
*Oh, and is there any reason to not go with 8 gigs of RAM on 2 sticks?
*Oh, and is there any reason to not go with 8 gigs of RAM on 2 sticks?
Dr. Acid Avatar
Member
Which motherboard manufacturer has the best warranty policy? If I could find one with lifetime support that would kick ass. I'm going to be purchasing a new CPU this winter and plan on using an intel processor. Do you think the i7's will drop to about $199 anytime this year?
I'll also need a new OS. Any advice on the cheapest place to buy Windows 7 home 64 bit? It's $99 on Newegg. Just curious if that's the best price out there.
I'll also need a new OS. Any advice on the cheapest place to buy Windows 7 home 64 bit? It's $99 on Newegg. Just curious if that's the best price out there.
Danne-Danger said:
yeah the specifically for stuff refers to the timings, which means a P55 motherboard should automatically recognize the optimal settings or something
if you run AMD just look at the specs (volt, timings), set them in your bios and you're all set
and less sticks is always preferred AFAIK (although I've never had issues with 4)
DodgyGeezerFella
Member
I bought a second hand ATI 4850 for my brother, and while playing games we notice very minor random flickering of objects or things in the background. I loaded up ATI Tools and ran the artifact scanner, and loads of yellow dots are popping up over it, even though it says no errors. Card isnt overclocked. Should i return this for a refund ?
Edit - Temps running FurMark on Xtreme burning mode, card wouldnt go any further than 89c.
Edit 2 - Yup this cards fucked, playing GRID the flickery stretchyness of certain things was obvious. Off it goes !
Edit - Temps running FurMark on Xtreme burning mode, card wouldnt go any further than 89c.
Edit 2 - Yup this cards fucked, playing GRID the flickery stretchyness of certain things was obvious. Off it goes !
Quick headphone/mic combo question:
Just bought a Creative HS-400 for chatting/gaming, but the mic, it doesn't work. Incoming audio is good and fine, but I just can't get thet mic to work. I enabled my mic (PC says it recognizes it as a frontmic) but while testing I just can't record anything. And yes, I switched the headphone on and put it in the right jacks. Please help
Just bought a Creative HS-400 for chatting/gaming, but the mic, it doesn't work. Incoming audio is good and fine, but I just can't get thet mic to work. I enabled my mic (PC says it recognizes it as a frontmic) but while testing I just can't record anything. And yes, I switched the headphone on and put it in the right jacks. Please help
cartoon_soldier
Member
Not related to getting a new PC, but I might find a good answer here.
Getting my new computer in a couple of weeks, and wondering what the selling price of my old CPU would be if I decide to go that route.
Specs:
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 6700 @ 2.66GHz
4 GB RAM
250GB HDD
HL-DT-ST DVD-ROM GDRH10N
SONY DVD+-RW AW-Q160S
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 1024Mb
Windows 7 32-bit Home Premium
Thanks
Getting my new computer in a couple of weeks, and wondering what the selling price of my old CPU would be if I decide to go that route.
Specs:
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 6700 @ 2.66GHz
4 GB RAM
250GB HDD
HL-DT-ST DVD-ROM GDRH10N
SONY DVD+-RW AW-Q160S
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 1024Mb
Windows 7 32-bit Home Premium
Thanks
RurouniZel
Asks questions so Ezalc doesn't have to
Does this look right as far as Temp goes?
