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"I need a new PC!" 2010 Edition

caliblue15 said:
I'm overclocking my GTX 460 right now, is 80C the usual temperature mark you want to stay below?

Do you guys like adding voltage to your GPU's or just messing with the core clocks?

Edit: I gained 400 points on the 3D mark 11, but I still have people with i5-760 beating me with the same exact card.. and my card is clocked higher, is it because they OC'd their CPU's to 4ghz?

I wouldn't worry too much about the benchmark. What's important is how it plays the games you own. I wouldn't go too far overclocking the GPU unless your trying to play games like crysis and metro 2033. Your CPU is a beast and should be a great overclocker, so I would personally aim for 4Ghz if I had it. It's not going to effect most games but there is a lot of untapped potential just begging to be unleashed.
 
Felix Lighter said:
I wouldn't worry too much about the benchmark. What's important is how it plays the games you own. I wouldn't go too far overclocking the GPU unless your trying to play games like crysis and metro 2033. Your CPU is a beast and should be a great overclocker, so I would personally aim for 4Ghz if I had it. It's not going to effect most games but there is a lot of untapped potential just begging to be unleashed.

I think I have the GPU overclocked where I like it, improved my score on 3dMark 11 another 200 points.

I'm going to start overclocking the CPU now, but I figure that will be a much harder task since with the GPU i just used a software program.

Edit 1: Went from 3561 to 4101 just overclocking the GPU. (Which was already factory overclocked.)

Edit 2: Running Intel overclocking utility to see what it gets, takes 6-7 hours for itself to autotune an overclock, I could then run with those and increase it higher, taking some guess work out, or at least that's the plan.
 
caliblue15 said:
I think I have the GPU overclocked where I like it, improved my score on 3dMark 11 another 200 points.

I'm going to start overclocking the CPU now, but I figure that will be a much harder task since with the GPU i just used a software program.

A good guide goes a long way. It's relatively simple but time consuming due to endless stress testing and incremental bumps to clock/voltage.
 
caliblue15 said:
I think I have the GPU overclocked where I like it, improved my score on 3dMark 11 another 200 points.

I'm going to start overclocking the CPU now, but I figure that will be a much harder task since with the GPU i just used a software program.

Edit 1: Went from 3561 to 4101 just overclocking the GPU. (Which was already factory overclocked.)

Edit 2: Running Intel overclocking utility to see what it gets, takes 6-7 hours for itself to autotune an overclock, I could then run with those and increase it higher, taking some guess work out, or at least that's the plan.
Post what it gives you. I'm interested.
Also I'd aim for 4.2 on a good voltage.

Heck my E7200 is 2.53Ghz at stock and I've been running it at 3.8Ghz for over a year. That's 50% faster :D
 
Would investing in another 4 GB of RAM give much benefit to anything?

Phenom II 925 x4 @ 3.3 GHz
4GB RAM
Radeon 5770

EDIT: Also I OC'ed my 2.8 GHz to 3.3, do you think I could go higher?
 
scitek said:
Would investing in another 4 GB of RAM give much benefit to anything?
For gaming? No.

scitek said:
EDIT: Also I OC'ed my 2.8 GHz to 3.3, do you think I could go higher?
Was it unstable above 3.3? If you haven't already, you could give the voltage a nudge and try again.
 
scitek said:
Would investing in another 4 GB of RAM give much benefit to anything?

Phenom II 925 x4 @ 3.3 GHz
4GB RAM
Radeon 5770

EDIT: Also I OC'ed my 2.8 GHz to 3.3, do you think I could go higher?

Should be fairly easy to hit 3.6 with a Phenom II X4, after that it gets tricky.
 
Hazaro said:
Post what it gives you. I'm interested.
Also I'd aim for 4.2 on a good voltage.

Heck my E7200 is 2.53Ghz at stock and I've been running it at 3.8Ghz for over a year. That's 50% faster :D


caliblue15 said:
So i must have something setup wrong...

P3561

with i7-970
6gb of ram
GTX 460

I score 18,000 on the DX10 3D mark..

Graphics score of 14,600 and CPU score of 62,000 lol.


caliblue15 said:
Overclocked GPU a little and got

P3925

Did I do good? Should I overclock the GTX 460 more?

Just seems low compared to the i5-760's at 5,000 with the same card... (probably the overclock.)


P4101 with a little more GPU tweaking.

Really need to overclock my i7-970 and see what happens.
 
Hazaro said:
Post what it gives you. I'm interested.
Also I'd aim for 4.2 on a good voltage.

Heck my E7200 is 2.53Ghz at stock and I've been running it at 3.8Ghz for over a year. That's 50% faster :D

Holy shit. I'm on a E7400 at 2.8ghz...would love to OC it some. I feel like it is bottlenecking my performance. I found some tutorials online, but is there any specific one that you would recommend?
 
Does anyone have any info on the Samsung PM800 SSDs?

Somebody is sending me one since I traded laptops and mine was worth more, but would it be a waste to use that SSD? Ive read up a little on them and I dont know what to think. Should I pay him the $100 for the SSD or take $400 and buy one of the intels?

Its a 256GB Samsung SSD. Its the ones that dell lets you upgrade to.
 
Fredescu said:
Was it unstable above 3.3? If you haven't already, you could give the voltage a nudge and try again.

When I bump it up to 3.5 GHz, for some reason my video drivers don't work.

EDIT: NM, uninstalled, used Driversweeper, then downloaded the latest and they worked, though now I don't have MLAA. :( Was able to get it up to 3.5 without any trouble.
 
Ok, so I've got my new pc almost all setup, just need to integrate it into my console, but I've got my couch gaming rig connected to my Samsung Plasma and where I sit on the couch is a good 15 feet away.

I thought my wife's shitty ass wireless keyboard and mouse combo would work for me so I could save a little on my budget to buy this rig in the first place. Well, it has a range of about 3 feet, so I cant sit on the couch and get the wireless KB/M to read.

What brand of KB/M combo can I get that will work from my couch? I'd like to stay on the cheaper side of the spectrum, but if I have to spend $100 to get the combo that will work, I will.
 
here are my specs for my first build. i just finished installing everything and hit the power button and nothing. lol. so im not sure where to proceed.

Coolermaster Storm Scout case

Asus M4A87TD EVO motherboard
amd 955 phenom ll x4 BE revision c cpu

SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ 500GB hdd

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL ram

N460GTX Hawk gpu

xfx 650 watt black edition psu


so i put in everything to the best of my knowledge and pushed in the power button. everything seems like it is powering up but the monitor isnt showing anything it goes analog digital analog digital like it is trying to find an video source but cant find onel. And rthen the monitor goes in sleep mode.

I took out the vid card and put in and old one thqt i know works. and turned back on the computer and the monitor still did the same thing.

one thing on the motherboard I wasnt sure about was on the right side about middle of it there is the 24 pin connection. I have that plugged in. but at the top of the motherboard there is a 4 pin connection that says 12v atx? Do i also need to plug into this? or only the 24 pin? This is really the onlything i could think that wasnt connected correctly

Any help would be greatly appreaciated.
 
beastmaster said:
one thing on the motherboard I wasnt sure about was on the right side about middle of it there is the 24 pin connection. I have that plugged in. but at the top of the motherboard there is a 4 pin connection that says 12v atx? Do i also need to plug into this? or only the 24 pin? This is really the onlything i could think that wasnt connected correctly

Both
 
beastmaster said:
one thing on the motherboard I wasnt sure about was on the right side about middle of it there is the 24 pin connection. I have that plugged in. but at the top of the motherboard there is a 4 pin connection that says 12v atx? Do i also need to plug into this? or only the 24 pin? This is really the onlything i could think that wasnt connected correctly

Any help would be greatly appreaciated.
I also wasn't sure about this with my first build, but yes that 12v connector is very important and needs to be plugged in as well as the 24pin connector. after that you should be good to go
 
Cipherr said:
Dont the 970's you run have unlocked multis?

I can from 1-25 and mess with BCLK speeds. at 3.9 right now, just using BCLK speeds, gotta test it out though, as I haven't increased any voltages.
 
caliblue15 said:
I can from 1-25 and mess with BCLK speeds. at 3.9 right now, just using BCLK speeds, gotta test it out though, as I haven't increased any voltages.

When you have the voltages on auto, your bios will change the voltages for you. So even though it might look you haven't changed stuff you might be overvolting certain components.

Auto is bad mkay.

Best approach is putting all the voltages to the stock value, in most bios versions the default value is listed first on the line behind the specific component, CPU PLL will be 1.80, ICH core 1.10 etc etc. After putting them all on stock start increasing BCLK. That way you're sure your bios isn't upping voltages behind your back.

What mobo do you have?
 
Davedough said:
Ok, so I've got my new pc almost all setup, just need to integrate it into my console, but I've got my couch gaming rig connected to my Samsung Plasma and where I sit on the couch is a good 15 feet away.

I thought my wife's shitty ass wireless keyboard and mouse combo would work for me so I could save a little on my budget to buy this rig in the first place. Well, it has a range of about 3 feet, so I cant sit on the couch and get the wireless KB/M to read.

What brand of KB/M combo can I get that will work from my couch? I'd like to stay on the cheaper side of the spectrum, but if I have to spend $100 to get the combo that will work, I will.
Well if you for sure wanted a great range, that always worked, I would suggest bluetooth keyboard and mouse.
Found this logitech set that seems really nice, but its 139 bucks, dunno how much your willing to go over 100 though
 
vocab said:
No way that's stable.

Running prime 95 right now, no issues yet. my vcore is 1.27 v, which is safe...

once i got a stable unit, i was told then then decrease my voltage for an everyday OC.

or am i doing it backwards, lol

What's a good Core TEMP I want to stay below while running on air..
 
Here's a random question; I just got a 2TB USB 2.0 HDD to back up all my computers and I decided to reformat it (idk, it's a new drive and I'd rather find out now rather than later that it doesn't work). I'm not sure this was a particularly awesome idea, it's at like 33%...after 6 hours. Is this normal?
 
Angry Grimace said:
Here's a random question; I just got a 2TB USB 2.0 HDD to back up all my computers and I decided to reformat it (idk, it's a new drive and I'd rather find out now rather than later that it doesn't work). I'm not sure this was a particularly awesome idea, it's at like 33%...after 6 hours. Is this normal?
With new drives, I have always just did a quick format, lol was always too anxious to get the shit going :lol
 
Angry Grimace said:
Here's a random question; I just got a 2TB USB 2.0 HDD to back up all my computers and I decided to reformat it (idk, it's a new drive and I'd rather find out now rather than later that it doesn't work). I'm not sure this was a particularly awesome idea, it's at like 33%...after 6 hours. Is this normal?

Did you do a low level format?

Those take for ever.
 
Ok guys, it seems like the "Hypertransport sync flood error" probelm I've been having with trying to install Windows 7 is common with MSI motherboards. I updated to the latest BIOS, installed all the drivers and even messed with the BIOS but to no avail. Or it could be my video card since running the Windows 7 upgrade advisor returned an "unknown" compatibility result which I doubt is the case since the video card is pretty new. Either way I decided to buy a new mobo and see if that fixes the problem. This is my current build:

-COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
-AMD Athlon II X4 640 Propus 3.0GHz Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor ADX640WFGMBOX
-Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model AD-7260S-0B - OEM
-XFX P1-650X-CAH9 650W ATX12V v2.2 / ESP12V v2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
-OCZ Signature 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model OCZ3SR1333LV4GK
-MSI 870-G45 AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard
-XFX HD-577X-ZMF3 Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit DDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity
 
koji said:
When you have the voltages on auto, your bios will change the voltages for you. So even though it might look you haven't changed stuff you might be overvolting certain components.

Auto is bad mkay.

Best approach is putting all the voltages to the stock value, in most bios versions the default value is listed first on the line behind the specific component, CPU PLL will be 1.80, ICH core 1.10 etc etc. After putting them all on stock start increasing BCLK. That way you're sure your bios isn't upping voltages behind your back.

What mobo do you have?

x58 sabertooth ASUS
 
Sheesh, my HP 8740w is feeling ancient right now.

I just got Split/Second and tried to run it on Very High at 1920x1200 and my computer responded with a big "fuck you!" Bumped it down to a modest res and went back to High and it's still chugging a little - not as well as I expected. My Core i7 720 @ 1.6 with a FirePro M7820 just isn't cutting it anymore. It seems as if I need to do a little maintenance.. but I can't help feeling so.. outdated. :(
 
Le-mo said:
Ok guys, it seems like the "Hypertransport sync flood error" probelm I've been having with trying to install Windows 7 is common with MSI motherboards. I updated to the latest BIOS, installed all the drivers and even messed with the BIOS but to no avail. Or it could be my video card since running the Windows 7 upgrade advisor returned an "unknown" compatibility result which I doubt is the case since the video card is pretty new. Either way I decided to buy a new mobo and see if that fixes the problem. This is my current build:

This happened to a friend of mine with an MSI board, G54 870A actually, and I suggested that he turn off Cool N Quiet for the CPU, and we never saw the error again.

Weird.
 
radeon 5650 option for a laptop - worth it for £100 premium over a standard i3?

eg Packard Bell/ASUS i3-370/4GB/320GB HDD - £450
VAIO i3-370/4GB/320GB HDD + 5650 - £550

Its really mainly for the kids and a general family computer, but wouldn't mind playing the odd game on it that you can't get on consoles (civ etc)
 
caliblue15 said:
Is it better to have a higher BCLK at 200 and a lower multiplier or higher mulitplier and lower BCLK?

It's my understanding and my experience that a higher BCLK and a lower multiplier is typically better. I was able to hit a slightly higher stable OC with the same voltage when I lowered my multiplier and raised my BCLK on my i7 930.

Edit: Obviously, all chips are different though and a higher BCLK will effect your memory speeds as well, so that would need to be factored in.
 
Felix Lighter said:
It's my understanding and my experience that a higher BCLK and a lower multiplier is typically better. I was able to hit a slightly higher stable OC with the same voltage when I lowered my multiplier and raised my BCLK on my i7 930.

Edit: Obviously, all chips are different though and a higher BCLK will effect your memory speeds as well, so that would need to be factored in.

On air should I stay below 80C for an everyday overclock or be conservative and go 75C or 70C...

When torture testing on Prime95, you now its a bad OC when you BSOD, what if it just freezes?
 
caliblue15 said:
On air should I stay below 80C for an everyday overclock or be conservative and go 75C or 70C...

When torture testing on Prime95, you now its a bad OC when you BSOD, what if it just freezes?

it's still unstable so its a no go
 
caliblue15 said:
On air should I stay below 80C for an everyday overclock or be conservative and go 75C or 70C...

When torture testing on Prime95, you now its a bad OC when you BSOD, what if it just freezes?

At full load mine hit 73-75C over the summer during stress testing on air. I, personally, wanted to keep it below 75C, some don't want to go over 70C and some don't mind hitting 80C on an i7. It's more about your own comfort level.

Freezes are bad as well. The OC isn't stable.
 
Le-mo said:
Ok guys, it seems like the "Hypertransport sync flood error" probelm I've been having with trying to install Windows 7 is common with MSI motherboards. I updated to the latest BIOS, installed all the drivers and even messed with the BIOS but to no avail. Or it could be my video card since running the Windows 7 upgrade advisor returned an "unknown" compatibility result which I doubt is the case since the video card is pretty new. Either way I decided to buy a new mobo and see if that fixes the problem. This is my current build:

-COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
-AMD Athlon II X4 640 Propus 3.0GHz Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor ADX640WFGMBOX
-Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model AD-7260S-0B - OEM
-XFX P1-650X-CAH9 650W ATX12V v2.2 / ESP12V v2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
-OCZ Signature 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model OCZ3SR1333LV4GK
-MSI 870-G45 AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard
-XFX HD-577X-ZMF3 Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit DDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity

Geez you are just having the absolute worst luck. Almost always I just put everything together on new builds and it just works fine. The worst I've had to deal with is forgetting to plug the 12V in. Windows 7 won't have a problem with a 5770, you'll just have to download the latest drivers from AMD as the Windows install disk obviously won't have them. I would also recommend using the upgrade disk to do a clean install if you're not aware that you are able to.
 
Felix Lighter said:
At full load mine hit 73-75C over the summer during stress testing on air. I, personally, wanted to keep it below 75C, some don't want to go over 70C and some don't mind hitting 80C on an i7. It's more about your own comfort level.

Freezes are bad as well. The OC isn't stable.

So, to fix the unstable OC, i just keep increasing the CPU Voltage slowly, or do i increase the CPU PLL values as well?

Most of these guides suck, the IOH values should never be raised, or should I just leave those on auto?
 
caliblue15 said:
So, to fix the unstable OC, i just keep increasing the CPU Voltage slowly, or do i increase the CPU PLL values as well?

Most of these guides suck, the IOH values should never be raised, or should I just leave those on auto?

What are your values set at now? Here is the guide that helped me the most in my process http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?board_id=1&model=P6T+Deluxe&id=20081220191040237&page=1&SLanguage=en-us.

Also there are a lot of stable OC examples throughout that thread that can also be helpful to give you a sense of what is typical for your CPU.
 
caliblue15 said:
So, to fix the unstable OC, i just keep increasing the CPU Voltage slowly, or do i increase the CPU PLL values as well?

Most of these guides suck, the IOH values should never be raised, or should I just leave those on auto?

IOH, if you really have a lot of HDs and raidsetup a tiny bump might be in order.

There are a couple good guides out there.

Your main voltages to tweak will be Vcore and VTT though, keep in mind that too much VTT will also make your system unstable. What ramspeed are you running atm? (CPU PLL maybe a bump to 1.84 not all chips respond good to PLL tweaking, mine does)

http://www.evga.com/forumsarchive/tm.asp?m=100494809

This is a pretty good guide about voltages, bookmark it. :-)

Also this one;

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/538439-guide-overclocking-core-i7-920-930-a.html

Read it :-)

This is my current OC and bios template, you can have a look at those voltages -> http://www.overclock.net/11164641-post1295.html
 
koji said:
IOH, if you really have a lot of HDs and raidsetup a tiny bump might be in order.

There are a couple good guides out there.

Your main voltages to tweak will be Vcore and VTT though, keep in mind that too much VTT will also make your system unstable. What ramspeed are you running atm?

http://www.evga.com/forumsarchive/tm.asp?m=100494809

This is a pretty good guide about voltages, bookmark it. :-)

Also this one;

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/538439-guide-overclocking-core-i7-920-930-a.html

Read it :-)

 
Hey, can you guys look over this build and tell me what you think? Purpose is pretty much gaming with some MS Office use, but nothing heavy past the gaming:

CPU: Intel Core i5-760 Lynnfield 2.8GHz 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core
Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA 1156 Intel P55
CPU Cooling: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus
Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
PSU: CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V
GPU: EVGA 012-P3-1470-AR GeForce GTX 470 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD6401AALS 640GB 7200 RPM
Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS
Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE 7.1
Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 922 RC-922M-KKN1-GP

I know the sound card is overrated these days but I haven't had any real experience with Mobo-only sound. Has it advanced to the point where its reliable and good? On costs, I have some wiggle room, but would like to keep it under $1,200. Though my current computer is fairly strong, I've come into some money and want to build my first machine. Any help you guys can give would be greatly appreciated.
 
@ caliblue15

Try lowering QPI/DRAM voltage (that's VTT) to 1.35; that should be enough for 1600mhz ram. See what that gives, if prime blends run longer then before lower it even more, I'm using 1.32 for 1600mhz. Try to write down how long blends last with what setting btw! I check the time the crashreport was generated when I'm asleep or away. (and I write down the starting time)

I'ld try to stay sub 1.35 VTT for 24/7 usage, but that's just me. A lot of people run it a lot higher for higher ramspeeds. (1.50 etc)


My approach is getting linx 20runs stable first (with 3gb memory used) that'll flag instability A LOT sooner. Prime blends are good for final finetuning.

Oh, and disable speedstep if you're finetuning an OC, you don't want something messing with ratios and voltages behind your back, once your OC is stable again re-enable! (and retest, I have to keep it disabled!)

And another thing try using an UNEVEN multiplier, 21 or something, i7s HATE even multipliers for OC'ing.

That's about it I think, for now :lol
 
koji said:
@ caliblue15

Try lowering QPI/DRAM voltage (that's VTT) to 1.35; that should be enough for 1600mhz ram. See what that gives, if prime blends run longer then before lower it even more, I'm using 1.32 for 1600mhz. Try to write down how long blends last with what setting btw! I check the time the crashreport was generated when I'm asleep or away. (and I write down the starting time)

I'ld try to stay sub 1.35 VTT for 24/7 usage, but that's just me. A lot of people run it a lot higher for higher ramspeeds. (1.50 etc)


My approach is getting linx 20runs stable first (with 3gb memory used) that'll flag instability A LOT sooner. Prime blends are good for final finetuning.

Oh, and disable speedstep if you're finetuning an OC, you don't want something messing with ratios and voltages behind your back, once your OC is stable again re-enable!

And another thing try using an UNEVEN multiplier, 21 or something, i7s HATE even multipliers for OC'ing.

That's about it I think, for now :lol


On the overclocking it changes your DDR3 RAM speeds as you change the bus speeds, are you supposed to adjust that down to the 1600mhz rated speed of your RAM, or let it automatically increase the speeds. ( i did to be safe, and probably in guide, will read them after class).
 
prodystopian said:
According to Anandtech's Crysis power usage benchmark, under load the 8800GT requires 248 Watts while the Asus 6850 requires 263 Watts. It might be worth a try as the 6850 would be a great upgrade. I'm thinking of going from the 8800GTS512 to the 6850 myself.

Edit: Damn, Newegg had some of these in stock this morning, but they seem to be gone again.
Looks like that card won't fit into my case. I need something that will fit into a single PCI port worth of space. I'd just get another 8800gt, since I know it will work, but I guess those are only available used now. Any smaller card suggestions?
 
Le-mo said:
Ok guys, it seems like the "Hypertransport sync flood error" probelm I've been having with trying to install Windows 7 is common with MSI motherboards. I updated to the latest BIOS, installed all the drivers and even messed with the BIOS but to no avail. Or it could be my video card since running the Windows 7 upgrade advisor returned an "unknown" compatibility result which I doubt is the case since the video card is pretty new. Either way I decided to buy a new mobo and see if that fixes the problem. This is my current build:

-COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
-AMD Athlon II X4 640 Propus 3.0GHz Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor ADX640WFGMBOX
-Sony Optiarc CD/DVD Burner Black SATA Model AD-7260S-0B - OEM
-XFX P1-650X-CAH9 650W ATX12V v2.2 / ESP12V v2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
-OCZ Signature 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model OCZ3SR1333LV4GK
-MSI 870-G45 AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard
-XFX HD-577X-ZMF3 Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit DDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity
I have a build at almost that exact spec and I have the same issue. What I do now is every time I boot up, I turn it off and then reboot. For some reason, I don't get the hypertransport error.

I have the same exact cpu, gpu, and motherboard you have, so it must be one or a combination of those.

Robert Ashley said:
Looks like that card won't fit into my case. I need something that will fit into a single PCI port worth of space. I'd just get another 8800gt, since I know it will work, but I guess those are only available used now. Any smaller card suggestions?
If you want something smaller, the Radeon 5770 is a great card. And you can get one for under $130.
 
The Big Rig said:
I have a build at almost that exact spec and I have the same issue. What I do now is every time I boot up, I turn it off and then reboot. For some reason, I don't get the hypertransport error.

I have the same exact cpu, gpu, and motherboard you have, so it must be one or a combination of those.


If you want something smaller, the Radeon 5770 is a great card. And you can get one for under $130.
Sorry to be so needy, but are those available in PCI instead of PCIe? I don't have a PCIe port. (my phone is my only Internet right now, so research is difficult).
 
The Big Rig said:
I have a build at almost that exact spec and I have the same issue. What I do now is every time I boot up, I turn it off and then reboot. For some reason, I don't get the hypertransport error.

I have the same exact cpu, gpu, and motherboard you have, so it must be one or a combination of those.


If you want something smaller, the Radeon 5770 is a great card. And you can get one for under $130.

Some components just dont play nicely together. I remember when I made my PC, my Asus wireless card was interfering with my Asus motherboard and causing the whole computer to crash. Ironic.
 
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