"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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dangerbyrnes PSU only supports 150W across the +12v rails. That means 12.5a per rail. Pretty weak PSU, I wouldn't expect that to hold up under big GPU loads.


Not much to add to what LordCanti is telling you SnakeSlashRO. It's almost certainly one of those parts. You never did answer about the motherboard standoffs, that could make a difference. PC might short out because of the case.

Anyone with an asus monitor - Is your stand super wobbly? my montor will shake left and right when I am even typing, it's super wobbly... Love this monitor that I just got but I can't deal with this...
I don't recall issues with mine, but it also stood on a different part of the desk. I ended up replacing the stand with one that rotated anyway.
 
MisterNoisy said:
Nice! I'm about to build another desktop in that same chassis. :D

If I'm not mistaken, you'll need the RAID drivers first - you should be able to find them on your mobo manufacturer's site or on the disc that came with it. You should be able to copy them onto a USB key and install them from there.

Yea after about an hour of tinkering I finally figured that out.

Loaded the f6 drivers and boom dvd drive did not want to install windows 7.

I installed the iso into a 4 gig flash drive and windows installed insanely fast.

Everything works now but are there any good diagnostic programs to determine if my pc is stable and everything is running correctly.
 
Coldsnap said:
Anyone with an asus monitor - Is your stand super wobbly? my montor will shake left and right when I am even typing, it's super wobbly... Love this monitor that I just got but I can't deal with this...

I don't have this issue. You sure it's in correctly?
 
Onionkid said:
Hey guys, I've got a quick question about that refurbished GTX 460 that Newegg is selling for 110. I just bought one and installed it in my new rig, and for the most part it seems to be running fine and dandy. But the past two nights I've fallen asleep without shutting down my computer, and when I wake up and come back to it, the display isn't showing any more. The comp isn't going into sleep mode or turning the monitor off, it's the GPU not displaying properly. If I shut it down and reboot it, still nothing. Now, if I unplug one of the power cords coming to the card, then reboot, then shut down, replug the cord and *again* reboot, it'll magically work every time I mess with it in that order. Anyone know what's up? Anything I'm doing on this end, or should I maybe consider returning it to Newegg?

I have the same card and it doesn't do that. I do have my computer suspend after X time inactive right now so I see my power button flashing for me to push it to come out of sleep.

Are you absolutely certain it's not a power saving mode? I'd double check all that. All of it is on by default.
 
Coldsnap said:
Anyone with an asus monitor - Is your stand super wobbly? my montor will shake left and right when I am even typing, it's super wobbly... Love this monitor that I just got but I can't deal with this...


I have one. It has an oval shaped base. Mine doesn't wobble at all.
 
LordCanti said:
You could buy a mounting arm, and put the monitor on that. Or, you could buy adhesive velcro squares, and velcro the thing to the surface of your desk.

I make extensive use of velcro squares.

It's the base connection that is loose. That small stand screws into the larger platter and that is the thing that is wobbly, it wobbles around in the platter. I love velcro too, wish it could work here ;;

VS247H.jpg
 
LordCanti said:
Depending on the mobo, it may require a video card to boot properly. Definitely don't panic until you've tried it with the video card in.

Also, you could try plugging in a keyboard, and continuously tapping the bios key (F1 on a lot of mobo's, sometimes escape. Check your manual.) to see if it will go to bios.

MSI boards uses DEL to get into BIOS. Definitely try getting into the BIOS.


Coldsnap said:
It's the base connection that is loose. That small stand screws into the larger platter and that is the thing that is wobbly, it wobbles around in the platter. I love velcro too, wish it could work here ;;

VS247H.jpg

I have an older ASUS monitor and the base certainly isn't a rock. Wobbly enough to be annoying? yeah, probably. Depends on the person. I don't even notice it anymore.
 
chaosblade said:
dangerbyrnes PSU only supports 150W across the +12v rails. That means 12.5a per rail. Pretty weak PSU, I wouldn't expect that to hold up under big GPU loads.


Not much to add to what LordCanti is telling you SnakeSlashRO. It's almost certainly one of those parts. You never did answer about the motherboard standoffs, that could make a difference. PC might short out because of the case.


I don't recall issues with mine, but it also stood on a different part of the desk. I ended up replacing the stand with one that rotated anyway.

The sticker seemed to suggest it could do the full 500w on the 12v rail. It was blurry though so I can't be certain of that.

536zkj.jpg


Does that not say "Max combined power on 12v A, 12v B, and 12v C is 500w"?
 
263340_2186153407934_1069985230_2578162_4289609_n.jpg


I believe this came with my case... I cannot find anywhere to put this on my motherboard... would this have any other name? Im using a Msi p67A-G43


spent like 40 mins trying to figure that part out lol
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
263340_2186153407934_1069985230_2578162_4289609_n.jpg


I believe this came with my case... I cannot find anywhere to put this on my motherboard... would this have any other name? Im using a Msi p67A-G43


spent like 40 mins trying to figure that part out lol

It means your motherboard probably has one built in and it doesn't matter.
 
I read it as 150W max combined power. It's really misleading regardless, I prefer tables. 500W just seems huge for the +12v rails considering it's only a 525W PSU to begin with. 125 seems low though.

He can try it though. I wouldn't trust a OEM PSU with anything more than what the original PC had in it. They are usually reliable for what they are intended to run, but they typically aren't made for higher end equipment.
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
263340_2186153407934_1069985230_2578162_4289609_n.jpg


I believe this came with my case... I cannot find anywhere to put this on my motherboard... would this have any other name? Im using a Msi p67A-G43


spent like 40 mins trying to figure that part out lol
funny thing is, I forgot to install mine, soo won't have error beeps if something goes bad lol
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
263340_2186153407934_1069985230_2578162_4289609_n.jpg


I believe this came with my case... I cannot find anywhere to put this on my motherboard... would this have any other name? Im using a Msi p67A-G43


spent like 40 mins trying to figure that part out lol

If you can't find a place, the mobo may not support a speaker.

Either way, have you plugged the 12 and 8 pins in, as well as the front panel connectors, and tried booting again?

Edit: Found the speaker. It's on page 31 of your manual. JFP2 on the mobo.
 
chaosblade said:
I don't recall issues with mine, but it also stood on a different part of the desk. I ended up replacing the stand with one that rotated anyway.

What stand did you get? maybe I will just replace the stand...
 
Hey, currently building my rig, and am at the point of switching it on. Unfortunately, one problem that immediately comes up is that the CPU fan/heatsink does not switch on when I boot it up, immediately causing the CPU to heat up. Any suggestions?
 
Guerrillas in the Mist said:
Hey, currently building my rig, and am at the point of switching it on. Unfortunately, one problem that immediately comes up is that the CPU fan/heatsink does not switch on when I boot it up, immediately causing the CPU to heat up. Any suggestions?
If you installed the fan wired into the CPU fan slot on the MB, try another slot. If the fan still does not turn on, most likely, it's a bad fan. Have you tried another fan? Does the heatsink feel warm when cpu heats up?
 
Guerrillas in the Mist said:
Hey, currently building my rig, and am at the point of switching it on. Unfortunately, one problem that immediately comes up is that the CPU fan/heatsink does not switch on when I boot it up, immediately causing the CPU to heat up. Any suggestions?

Did you plug it in? Is it securely fastened? The SB stock fan "latches" are pretty garbage and have been known to unlock. If it wasn't pre-applied, did you apply the thermal paste properly?
 
well i calculated the price of the things you guys recommended, plus the $68.99 for the RAM sticks i need to get.

total

$674.95 (as long as i don't need a new case or a new PSU)

which is close enough to my budget.

Thanks for the help, I'm gonna wait till late September or early October, when i have more money to spend.
 
LordCanti said:
If you can't find a place, the mobo may not support a speaker.

Either way, have you plugged the 12 and 8 pins in, as well as the front panel connectors, and tried booting again?

Edit: Found the speaker. It's on page 31 of your manual. JFP2 on the mobo.


Ill take a look, thank you!!


Yes I hooked up the PSU, and the HSF to the CPU Fan spot. I just put in the 24pins and the 8pins, and it turns on and turns off immediately.

I have no graphics card or speaker in yet.
 
Coldsnap said:
What stand did you get? maybe I will just replace the stand...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FLXW90/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Worked just fine with my ASUS, specifically got it so I could rotate my monitor vertically, works great (although I am loaning out that monitor at the moment).I think I have a different model than you do though, didn't see which you had. I have a VH236H. Should have the same mounting specs if it's a similar size.
 
LordCanti said:
For SnakeSlashRO:

mdbMt.png


7Rco6.png


Thanks I got it in. But still it turns off....

could it be the CPU or the motherboard? How could you even know? No graphics card or ram is insterted. Just the power to the boards from the 24 and 8 pins. And the speaker
 
Coldsnap said:
Word, Im gonna try another screw at a hardware store with longer threads. Maybe that will help.
had a wobbly stand problem with my samsung lcd, turned out we had the stand on backwards lol, felt pretty dumb
 
gibon3z said:
Anyone know some good diagnostic tools for a brand new pc.

I just want to make sure everything is running cool and correctly.

Check the OP. I used Hardware Monitor and Prime95 to test load and temps.
 
knitoe said:
If you installed the fan wired into the CPU fan slot on the MB, try another slot. If the fan still does not turn on, most likely, it's a bad fan. Have you tried another fan? Does the heatsink feel warm when cpu heats up?

I tried resecuring the fan, I also used another connector on the Motherboard, but it did not turn on. The heatsink was warm to touch.

When I was building the PC, there was a "creaky" sound when I was securing the CPU into the slot using the lever, but I assumed that just had to do with the force required the lock it in place.
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
Thanks I got it in. But still it turns off....

could it be the CPU or the motherboard? How could you even know? No graphics card or ram is insterted. Just the power to the boards from the 24 and 8 pins. And the speaker

At least put ram in it.
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
Thanks I got it in. But still it turns off....

could it be the CPU or the motherboard? How could you even know? No graphics card or ram is insterted. Just the power to the boards from the 24 and 8 pins. And the speaker

It still doesn't make any noise? Hmm...

Well, add the video card back in first. Make sure it is well seated, and that the power is connected to it.

Double check that you've used case standoffs for the motherboard.

If that doesn't work, it's time to take the motherboard out of the case (pain in the ass that it is) to make sure there isn't a short somewhere.

Edit: Why did you take the RAM out O_O I said to leave the stick of RAM in, lol. It won't boot without RAM.
 
LordCanti said:
It still doesn't make any noise? Hmm...

Well, add the video card back in first. Make sure it is well seated, and that the power is connected to it.

Double check that you've used case standoffs for the motherboard.

If that doesn't work, it's time to take the motherboard out of the case (pain in the ass that it is) to make sure there isn't a short somewhere.

Edit: Why did you take the RAM out O_O I said to leave the stick of RAM in, lol. It won't boot without RAM.



Oh derp. Ill try it again.

Also I was wondering... on pg12 in the manual for the Mobo, it says it wants an ATX 8-pin power connector: JPWR2. Im using the 4+4-pin my PSU provides... sincei t does not have an 8.

If I picked up a converter would that make a diffrence?
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
Oh derp. Ill try it again.

Also I was wondering... on pg12 in the manual for the Mobo, it says it wants an ATX 8-pin power connector: JPWR2. Im using the 4+4-pin my PSU provides... sincei t does not have an 8.

If I picked up a converter would that make a diffrence?
4+4 and 8 pin are the same thing, that wouldn't make a difference.

Do the PSU test if you still don't get anything after you test with the RAM in. If the PSU checks out, it's the motherboard or CPU. And... yeah, just hope it works. Once you have it narrowed down to the CPU/motherboard, you're taking a 50/50 guess. Motherboard is more likely, but you never know.

Edit: Oh yeah, case standoffs/shorts. That would be bad though because you could accidentally mess up your board that way. Not likely, but possible.
 
Would there be any way to confirm if a CPU fan/heatsink not working was due to the fan itself (or the cpu), or if it could be the fault of the motherboard?

Looks like I'm going to have to make some phone calls tomorrow in any case. Ah well, I knew there was a chance it wouldn't be this easy.

Edit: I completely forgot to mention, before the BIOS starts up, one of the things that pops up is indeed "CPU Fan Error", which probably means its an issue with the fan itself.

During the brief moment I have BIOS on before shutting the PC down, under box for MB fan power slots, all of them have "N/A" as a status, with the CPU fan plugged into it's respective slot, and nothing in the others.
 
Skilletor said:
Okay, PC-gaf. Looking at getting a PC for gaming.

I want to play Diablo 3, the Witcher 2, and PS2/Wii emulation without the system chugging.

How does this DIY from newegg look?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Combo...o.691189&cm_sp=DIY_PC_Combos-_-691189-_-Combo

Any help/suggestions is appreciated. :)

Thanks!
I would go with the 600 dollar build in the op, and just swap the i3 out for an i5 2500k, that way you can overclock for emulation easily, doesnt even look like that diy build has a gpu included, so you would spend less with my suggestion, and get a nice gpu in the process
 
chaosblade said:
4+4 and 8 pin are the same thing, that wouldn't make a difference.

Do the PSU test if you still don't get anything after you test with the RAM in. If the PSU checks out, it's the motherboard or CPU. And... yeah, just hope it works. Once you have it narrowed down to the CPU/motherboard, you're taking a 50/50 guess. Motherboard is more likely, but you never know.

Edit: Oh yeah, case standoffs/shorts. That would be bad though because you could accidentally mess up your board that way. Not likely, but possible.



Yeah I tried everything.... I did do the PSU test....


What is the standoffshorts?? You mean when tighting them I might have made a short in the mobo?
 
Skilletor said:
Okay, PC-gaf. Looking at getting a PC for gaming.

I want to play Diablo 3, the Witcher 2, and PS2/Wii emulation without the system chugging.

How does this DIY from newegg look?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Combo...o.691189&cm_sp=DIY_PC_Combos-_-691189-_-Combo

Any help/suggestions is appreciated. :)

Thanks!
Seems okay, but half the savings are from the unnecessary AV software. It still needs a GPU and that will bring you to around $1000. I'd look for another one with a 2500k instead of a 2600k, you won't see any benefits in getting that.

Edit: Unsurprisingly, most of the combos include some lesser parts. Stuff they are probably trying to shovel out of the warehouse, you are better off just picking out parts separately and going with two item combo deals when they are available for what you need.

SnakeSlashRO said:
Yeah I tried everything.... I did do the PSU test....


What is the standoffshorts?? You mean when tighting them I might have made a short in the mobo?
BSTANDOFF.jpg


You used these right? If not your motherboard could be touching the case and shorting out.
 
chaosblade said:
Seems okay, but half the savings are from the unnecessary AV software. It still needs a GPU and that will bring you to around $1000. I'd look for another one with a 2500k instead of a 2600k, you won't see any benefits in getting that.


BSTANDOFF.jpg


You used these right? If not your motherboard could be touching the case and shorting out.


Oh no, I did use those. I couldnt get them all installed because the one of the screws did not fit in properly... its like the board wouldnt fit with the litttle (im not sure what it is called) (stencil like thing for the USB and audio ports etc... mouse keyboard etc) the far left top screw didnt go in well... I spent an hour trying to get it to fit right with the other screws...
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
Oh no, I did use those. I couldnt get them all installed because the one of the screws did not fit in properly... its like the board wouldnt fit with the litttle (im not sure what it is called) (stencil like thing for the USB and audio ports etc... mouse keyboard etc) the far left top screw didnt go in well... I spent an hour trying to get it to fit right with the other screws...

Are you...are you telling me that one of the standoffs isn't in, thus causing an (electrical) short?

...derp.

Take the motherboard out, put it on a plastic bag, re-attach the 12-pin and 8-pin, (leave the video card and RAM in), and try to boot. If it boots, you'll have found the problem.
 
Did some Prime95 tests while I was in the shower and running some errands.

at 3.8GHz, it hovered around 53-55 average during the 'blend' test and during the 'In-place large FFTs' test it was 54-57 consistently.

I'd say that's pretty solid?
 
Sethos said:
Did some Prime95 tests while I was in the shower and running some errands.

at 3.8GHz, it hovered around 53-55 average during the 'blend' test and during the 'In-place large FFTs' test it was 54-57 consistently.

I'd say that's pretty solid?

Yep, time to up that OC. Stop when you're seeing 65-68c in Prime95.
 
Sweet. I did try to bump it up to 4.5 but was greeted with the "Overclock failed", guess I was too quick to up it. What's the recommended increment these days, 400 every time you boot the PC?
 
Sethos said:
Sweet. I did try to bump it up to 4.5 but was greeted with the "Overclock failed", guess I was too quick to up it. What's the recommended increment these days, 400 every time you boot the PC?

I'd do 200mhz every time, with a run of Prime 95. When you find instability, you can either drop it back down and live with it, or bump the voltage a bit.

You'd have to find a guide for your chip and mobo to see what people are actually getting, and at what voltage. Remember that no two chips are identical.
 
I already was on it after you guys brough up the short issue. I hope it didnt need to be a plastic bag... I used a box...

228981_2186288651315_1069985230_2578300_7412189_n.jpg



285187_2186287771293_1069985230_2578297_7090069_n.jpg




Same issue =( im making a little video too....
'
Not sure what to do now lol.
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
I already was on it after you guys brough up the short issue. I hope it didnt need to be a plastic bag... I used a box...

228981_2186288651315_1069985230_2578300_7412189_n.jpg



285187_2186287771293_1069985230_2578297_7090069_n.jpg




Same issue =( im making a little video too....
'
Not sure what to do now lol.

Just so I'm clear:

1: Do you have another power supply you could use to test?
2: Do you have another video card?
3. Does the video card fan spin (sorry if this has been covered)
4. Does the CPU fan spin?

Just in case, swap the single stick of RAM for another stick.

We're getting into the unfortunate territory where it is probably either the mobo or the CPU. I think mobo failure rates are much higher than CPU failure rates, so that would be my first bet. You may very well have killed it by not using all the standoffs.

Did you buy local, or did you buy online? If you know of a store with a decent return policy, you could go get another mobo, and test it out. Otherwise, you'd need to RMA and wait. If it still didn't work, you'd have to RMA other parts, until you found the one that was busted.

If you have another PSU, try it. If you have another video card, use it. If you know anyone that could lend you either, ask them.
 
I feel your pain RO. :( Im currently waiting for my case and CPU to arrive so i can start building and im PRAYING that all my components will work. I even bought a anti static wrist strap :lol
 
Box is fine, anything that won't short it out.

You're probably looking at returning the motherboard at this point. Sucks, but it happens (although pretty rarely outside RAM and HDDs). As long as you don't end up in the position I did - getting a replacement motherboard and realizing that's not the problem, it's the CPU (which is really rare).

Hate to come up with that diagnosis without messing with it myself, but it's looking more and more like the problem.

No beeps or anything? Didn't see you mention whether or not there were any. If not it's certainly a motherboard/CPU issue. My board had a panel that would display a code I could crosscheck to troubleshoot, and that wasn't working. No beeps would be about the same thing.
 
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