"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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RumblingRosco
Member
The Lamonster said:
I really like my MSI 560 Ti Twin Frozr II. It runs quite a bit cooler than the average 560 Ti. There are a few models of it, I actually picked up the factory overclocked one for a bit cheaper than the non-overclocked.
scogoth said:
Odd. I guess it's due to regional differences but here they cost, on avg ( prices taken from top 30 cheapest stores ) :
Asus GeForce Mars II/2DIS/3GD5 3GB ~14000 sek ~ 2200 usd
Asus GeForce ENGTX590/3DIS/3GD5 3GB ~6000 sek ~ 940 usd
MisterNoisy
Member
The Lamonster said:
The general consensus is that the best of the bunch are the MSI Twin Frozr or ASUS DirectCuII units for their good cooling setups. I've purchased two of the MSI 560ti cards and they're great.
PC GAF, I desperately need your help! My new PC was working fine and dandy for about 48 hours. However, yesterday when I tried to turn it on, it said that Windows couldn't start properly because files or hardware had been altered. Every time I tried to start Windows normally, it would just crash while loading and restart. The second option was a disk repair thing. I chose that, and left it doing repairs for several hours until it rebooted and Windows loaded again.
However, everything is now fucked up. All of my games crash when I try to open them (Crysis eventually worked after letting it sit for a while, but all of the enemies act weird, like jumping up and down in place), and I can barely open any program without it becoming unresponsive. I texted my friend to see what he thinks, and he says that my harddrive might be faulty. What does GAF think? How can I fix it? I'm kind of freaking out right now, especially since I have to leave for school on Sunday.
However, everything is now fucked up. All of my games crash when I try to open them (Crysis eventually worked after letting it sit for a while, but all of the enemies act weird, like jumping up and down in place), and I can barely open any program without it becoming unresponsive. I texted my friend to see what he thinks, and he says that my harddrive might be faulty. What does GAF think? How can I fix it? I'm kind of freaking out right now, especially since I have to leave for school on Sunday.
systematic
Unconfirmed Member
pirateben said:
A SSD cache drive won't work if you're going to pair it up with the Intel 320 SSD.
SSD caching only works if the drive you want to cache is a mechanical hard drive.
MisterNoisy said:
well hi there fellow gpu-sibling :3, I have the same pair ( love em ) have you ever tried OCing them? I know OCing and SLI is a whole can of worms but I really want to be able to understand what I did wrong ( or maybe I merely have crappy chips ) because I can't go above a certain shader clock for the life of me and it's not that high to begin with ( 900 mhz )
MisterNoisy
Member
Corky said:
Actually, I've got/had my 560s in two different PCs - one is my HTPC/Game console/LAN Party machine and the other was my actual 'gaming' desktop (I've since sold that one on to finance the majority of a new build - I wish Newegg/UPS would hurry up with the shipping). At 1080p, I've never felt the need to SLI or OC them, to be honest (though they did have a mild factory OC) - a single 560ti + i5-760/2500K was enough to brutalize almost anything at that resolution.
Based on my experience with the 460 that one of the 560s replaced, you might need to up the voltage a little to sustain higher OCs - my own preference is to shoot for the fastest stable OC before you have to overvolt, though.
Beyond that, the amount of overclocking you can do with a particular GPU is variable - sometimes you get a monster overclocker and sometimes you get a dud.
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
Hey GAF! I am back with another question!!!
Im all set up, but I have two hard drives connected. Both SATA.
One is a 500GB SATA Segate HDD and the other is the same but a older 300GB (Still SATA)
When I was installing Windows 7, it read both drives and asked which one I wanted to use... Also my Bios reads both drives as empty. (well before I installed windows)
Windows is installed, im installing games etc... but the second SATA 300GB doesn't appear in My Computer, under Device Management you see both drives, one says location 1 and other says location 0.
Why wont it appear? I heard something like I had to format or partition or something to it, how do I do that?
Also whats a good USB adapter for Wifi? I have a D-Link router for B/G/N and I want to get my new desktop connected. I may end up using wired but for now... Id like to try a good one that is external.
Im all set up, but I have two hard drives connected. Both SATA.
One is a 500GB SATA Segate HDD and the other is the same but a older 300GB (Still SATA)
When I was installing Windows 7, it read both drives and asked which one I wanted to use... Also my Bios reads both drives as empty. (well before I installed windows)
Windows is installed, im installing games etc... but the second SATA 300GB doesn't appear in My Computer, under Device Management you see both drives, one says location 1 and other says location 0.
Why wont it appear? I heard something like I had to format or partition or something to it, how do I do that?
Also whats a good USB adapter for Wifi? I have a D-Link router for B/G/N and I want to get my new desktop connected. I may end up using wired but for now... Id like to try a good one that is external.
MisterNoisy
Member
SnakeSlashRO said:
Start -> Run -> 'diskmgmt.msc' without the quotes.
I'm not at home now (so can't test) but it sounds like you need to initialise the drive. here's a walkthrough of the procedure . Just don't do the wrong driveSnakeSlashRO said:
black_vegeta
Member
Coldsnap said:
Amazon has a 30 day return policy, so you're going to have to go through MSI's RMA process.
IMACOMPUTA
Member
Is there any reason to have more than 4gb of RAM for gaming?
IMACOMPUTA said:
If you aren't one of those guys that have a billion things running in the background then 4GB is more than enough. If you tend to have a few things running and forget to close a few things, it's stretching it a bit. If you just leave a ton of shit running and you decide to watch Blu-rays while gaming and encode a few full-length movies whilst doing SETI@Home, you might need more than 8.
Okay, I've noticed that since I've reapplied the fan and compound one of my CPU cores has been running a few degrees hotter than the rest. I'm talking like, while the rest of them are running between 41-43 this one is at 48. I'm guessing I didn't put enough on or it's not covering the cpu fully?
Heads up for those looking for a RAM deal:
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) + FREE 4GB Flash card for $45
Deal goes live at 1 PM PST (3 hours from now)
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) + FREE 4GB Flash card for $45
Deal goes live at 1 PM PST (3 hours from now)
RumblingRosco
Member
Any suggestions on a mic? I'd really prefer one that isn't a headset, as I already have nice headphone and a nice 2.1. system, so a free-standing one is what I'm considering. The less expensive the better, but I don't want to go so cheap that it's a POS. Any suggestions? Not even sure where to start looking.
drhankmccoyphd
Member
Someone help me with my case decision. I've been using my old antec mid tower since around 2003 and I think I'd like something modern to migrate to. I recently purchased an SSD so a slottable interface or adapter would be great. I'd also like something quiet. I'm not interested in garish LEDs or window panes. I'm currently looking at the Fractal Design R3 and the BitFenix Shinobi. On the one hand I really fell in love with the R3 in the Tested DIY video from a while ago. It's OOS on newegg which is a bummer, but in the interim I've picked out the Shinobi which looks like it has all the aspects of the R3, costs less and IMO looks cooler. Is there anything the R3 would do better than the Shinobi? Anything else I should be looking at?
black_vegeta
Member
Coldsnap said:
Amazon, no
MSI. Yeah, they should. You're an unsatisfied customer that has a fan that makes to much damn noise. They should either replace it with a new unit or fix it.
MisterNoisy
Member
drhankmccoyphd
Member
MisterNoisy said:
Looks nice, but does it support SSD? I didn't see it anywhere in the specs.
MisterNoisy
Member
mikespit1200 said:
Yea - you screw the SSD down onto the drive sled, then slip it in normally.
drhankmccoyphd
Member
MisterNoisy said:
Hmm, the one thing I don't like is that the drive bays parrallel to the Mobo which has caused my problems before. One of the reasons I like the Shinobi and R3 is that theyre perpendicular and come straight out. Thanks for the suggestion though!
KoruptData
Member
Another advise question. I have a 1.5 TB Wester Digital drive at 5400 rpm. If I get another hdd, should I just leave windows on that and just install games and commonly used programs on the better drive or should I make the new hdd my boot drive? The latter sounds like a headache to me.
KoruptData
Member
Booting windows is actually pretty fast. There is not much on there though.scogoth said:
I notice it most when my wife plays The Sims 3 and it has to loads the countless package files she has downloaded.
pirata said:
That sounds like RAM or harddrive.. either bad RAM, failing harddrive or a bad overclock.
If you aren't overclocking, try pulling out all but one of the RAM sticks and see if you are any better. If so, swap and try the other RAM.
You could(should) also run memtest.
KoruptData said:
It's easier than you think really. Get the new HD, plug it in (I usually take the old one out at this point), install windows on the new HD, then attach the second drive and copy whatever you need onto the main drive.
IMACOMPUTA
Member
Clydefrog said:
I have this ram : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...rue&Keywords=(keywords)&Page=1#scrollFullInfo
Thinking about getting more. Should i get the ram you linked or the ram that matches what i have?
Are they identical except for the heat sink?
AwesomeSauce
MagsMoonshine
Its really rare for the cpu to be the component that went bad. What cpu are you using and what motherboard?LabouredSubterfuge said:
ColonelColon
Member
Coldsnap said:
All of these programs monitor computer temperatures:
Speedfan (also allows you to adjust fan speed)- http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php
HWMonitor- http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
Real Temp (this one is actually incompatible with my CPU)- http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/
Izayoi said:
I have the ASUS model. The 120hz refresh rate is indeed amazing. Makes everything incredibly smooth especially FPS. I don't have the 3D kit yet but everything I've heard is that it looks very good, but this also depends on how it is implemented within each game. Nvidia pushes 3D hard and there's the added benefit of being able to game in 1080p and keep the IQ from going to shit on the PC. I have a Samsung D8000 as well for my TV and the 3D gaming with PS3 is hit or miss, mainly because of the reduction of the resolution. The actual effect though is nice, at least to me. With 580 SLI you'd be able to run it at 1080p and have a great framerate the majority of the time.
If you're buying it just for the 120hz then I dunno if it'd be worth it that's your call since as these monitors are $300+. From my personal experience it's wonderful and definitely enhances games and just general PC usage.
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