"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Mr Nightman said:
have you tried rebooting? Maybe windows can run the display with default windows drivers


Didn´t help..

n0n44m said:
hehe ... ermm .. try booting into safe mode by mashing F8 key before it loads windows

you can also try "last known good configuration" there

or log on with remote desktop if you have that enabled

edit: http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic68901.html not exactly easy but it should work

F8 didn´t work, but I´ll try that link you gave. Thanks.
 
Mr Nightman said:
well its still fine for many games out now, but games such as bad co 2 and bf3 will suffer from chugging when alot is going on. As for getting new components, reusing the dvd drive, psu and hdd is fine, as for ram pretty sure the newer intel i5's and i7's require ddr3 ram soo you would need new ram, unless you went the amd route, as they still have amd boards that except ddr2

Yeah, I won't be doing too much gaming with games such as BF 3 or anything like that. But I guess, I'll have to go with the i5 or i7 route and get a new board, CPU and RAM, and PSU. I guess I'm going to end up spending quite a bit of money on this upgrade/new rig.

I would have to format my HDD and do a clean install, correct?

And thank you for replying to my posts :)
 
Hieberrr said:
Hey, everyone!

I bought a Dell XPS 420 around 3-4 years ago, so the hardware is a little dated.

Here is my current setup:

  • Core 2 Duo E8400 @ 3.00GHz (32bit)
  • 4GB Ram
  • 375W PSU
  • Radeon HD 5450

Basically, there's is no way of updating my MB or CPU as it's on a stock Dell board (I know, I know... Why the fuck Dell, right? LOL). The machine is still treating me right, pretty fast and no slowdowns since I've installed W7. Now.. in terms of gaming.. it has always lacked a bit (I guess that's partially due to the CPU aaaandd the GPU which I downgraded from a 9800GT since I couldn't find any other GT9800 or equivalent at the time).

So, I want a new GPU :) Hopefully something that is around the range of the 9800GT, because I don't want a new PSU. I don't need a beast of a card or anything.. I just need something along the lines of that. I won't be playing any FPS like MW, BF, or Crysis for that matter.. All I'll be doing is basic gaming like Tropico, Fifa, etc...

Essentially, my question is: Should I upgrade my GPU (and potentially my PSU too) or do I wait a bit (a year or two) and build a new rig for ~500ish (I'm completely new to building). And if the former, which should I go with?

EDIT: The alternative is to just keep using my PS3 for gaming (like Fifa, etc..)

Personally I would spend around $75 or so now to get a pretty big jump in the the video card performance. You should be able to get a Radeon HD5670 for around that price which is the equivalent in performance of the 9800GT per Tom's hierarchy charts but is newer technology so it has DX11 support and lower power consumption. You should be fine with that PSU. Then start saving for a new build or new system a year or 2 down the road. With the 5670 you should be able to play pretty much all modern and upcomig games if you scale back the detail and resolution.

Something like this would work:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150467

Or this which is less, the difference being slower memory (GDDR3 vs GDDR5) which would mean a bit less performance though not much:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102930
 
Hieberrr said:
Yeah, I won't be doing too much gaming with games such as BF 3 or anything like that. But I guess, I'll have to go with the i5 or i7 route and get a new board, CPU and RAM, and PSU. I guess I'm going to end up spending quite a bit of money on this upgrade/new rig.

I would have to format my HDD and do a clean install, correct?

And thank you for replying to my posts :)
yea best to format and install fresh, honestly if you dont need the upgrade right now, you can just get a better gpu. I used to run a dual core amd with a 9800gt, and was playing games really well. They may have some 9800gts that dont require much power or even a power cable plugged into them, still stocked at newegg or tigerdirect

found an evga 9800gt at tiger for only 54 bucks after 74 dollar mail in rebate, and its power requirement recommends 350 watt psu soo you should be good to go
 
hodgy100 said:
So a couple of days ago I said I would spec up some builds for UK-GAF

so far I have come up with this £600 build
t52l5e.png


I could probably get this under £500 with a 1TB drive and a GTX560 instead of TI.

Scan is my website of choice for the UK as they are very reputable and if you are a member of some forums you can get free delivery (AVforums)
Does anyone have any suggestions for any tweaks?

The caviar green drives are slow. They are slow, low power drives meant for storage. Switch that to a WD Black or a Samsung Spinpoint F3.
 
i think I finally found my build. Comments appreciated.

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core ($219.99 @ newegg)

Graphics Card: SAPPHIRE Toxic Radeon 6950 2GB ($289.99 @ newegg)

Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.1) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel ($179.99 @ newegg)

Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) ($67.99 @ newegg)

Power Supply: Antec TruePower 650W ($99.99 @ newegg)

SSD OCZ Vertex 2 120GB ($179.99 @ newegg)

HDD : SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 HD204UI 2TB 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" ($79.99 @ newegg)

Case: Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower ($99.99 @ newegg)
 
Ooccoo said:
i think I finally found my build. Comments appreciated.
You can do better on the case for that price. Check out the ones in the OP.

Not sure about that PSU either, it might be okay. You'll have to make sure you balance the load on the v12 rails properly though.

Could get a cheaper 6950 with a good cooler, but that one isn't a bad choice.

You will want an aftermarket cooler if you are overclocking.
 
From everything I've heard, I'd stay away from any SSD using a Sandforce controller. The drives are insanely fast, but the amount of problems you get with them seems ridiculous.

So yea, that includes OCZ's Vertex 3 series.
 
chaosblade said:
You can do better on the case for that price. Check out the ones in the OP.

Not sure about that PSU either, it might be okay. You'll have to make sure you balance the load on the v12 rails properly though.

Could get a cheaper 6950 with a good cooler, but that one isn't a bad choice.

You will want an aftermarket cooler if you are overclocking.

Do you have suggestions? I'm a total noob. Someone told me SSD makes a huge difference so that's why it's included. Power supply will be changed to the one Velion suggested. For the 6950 I don't know either, really I'm just getting tips from people and don't understand a lot lol
 
I just ordered an entire new system, and the thought of upgrading my power supply never even crossed my mind. I'm not sure how fast PSU's become obsolete.

Here's my new system:

CPU: i7 2600K SandyBridge
RAM: 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 1866
Videocard: AMD 6950 2GB
1x Optical Drive
4x internal hard drives (possibly 3, as I might retire the Raptor drive)
1x SSD
1x external Hard Drive

And... here's my PSU that I've had since Q6600 days:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703009

So... should I be worried? It's never been anything but extremely reliable thus far.
 
My wallet exploded at the purchase of a cheap touchpad, and I'm not sure I'm ready to drop the money for a new system. I've still got that new toy glow about me as I overclock the thing, and add vidya themed wallpapers.

A man on a budget needs to stretch out his thrills.
 
New computer is here hooray! Just gotta install the OS.

While I was unpacking it from the box (I had them assemble it) there was quite a bit of static built up and I got a shock from the case a few times. Any chance anything could've been damaged? Should be okay if it was just the case right?

Alsooo, what kind of testing and benchmark junk should I download?
 
Some motherboard help please GAF.

CPU will be a 2500k so a compatible mobo is needed. I'm getting bogged down in the whole P67 or Z68 thing.

Am I right in thinking the only notable things the Z68 boards bring to the party is advantages to using an on-board GPU to encode video etc. and SSD caching?

Video encoding for me is nothing I will ever have a need for. SSD is a future upgrade possibly but not right now. Future proofing myself is something I am interested in though.

I have reasonably ok GPU (ATI 5700) at the moment and if I did upgrade it would be only to another single GPU and not a dual card set up. I can't seem to find any info concerning boards that might be superior to others in a single GPU config.

I'm currently thinking about an Asus P8Z68-V PRO (£123), an Asus P8P67 Pro R3 (£148), or an Asus P8P67 DELUXE R3 (£170). I'm not obsessed with Asus, they just seem to be well reviewed.

If anyone has any ideas or input I would be grateful.
 
bs000 said:
New computer is here hooray! Just gotta install the OS.

While I was unpacking it from the box (I had them assemble it) there was quite a bit of static built up and I got a shock from the case a few times. Any chance anything could've been damaged? Should be okay if it was just the case right?

Alsooo, what kind of testing and benchmark junk should I download?

Prime95 for max CPU/Memory utilization. This is good if you're overclocking and want to know if your machine is stable or not.

CoreTemp to find out what your CPU temps are.

CPU-Z for detailed analysis of all your machine parts (type of memory, overclock speed, etc).
 
tehbible said:
FYI Microcenter now has $50 dollar off cpu + mobo bundle from 8/26 - 8/28. (Please note: Brick and mortar only, meaning, in-store only)

08_26_intel.jpg


This is the best deal here, Z68 + $50 off + $15 Rebate = $50!
Is that why bundling an MSI H67MA with an i3 reduces the mobo price to $50? God, I wish that deal lasted longer. It's going to take at least another month before I find a job.
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
Amazon still hasnt given me my refund :flame:
How long have they received your return? My returns are usually processed in 1 day and it takes a few days to show up on the card account.
 
GAF, I installed my gtx 580 on a Antec 650W (the requirements for the gpu are 600W min), everything is gravy. I wonder if I can use my previous gt 460 as a dedicated physx card, can I slap it in without the fear of it burning off my whole computer?
If yes... How/Where do i connect a molex cable to the power supply in order to power the 460?
 
Is it worth the extra cash getting the 6950 2gb over the 1gb? I want to save the money, but I don't know if games in a few years would start requiring over 1gb.
 
MDSLKTR said:
GAF, I installed my gtx 580 on a Antec 650W (the requirements for the gpu are 600W min), everything is gravy. I wonder if I can use my previous gt 460 as a dedicated physx card, can I slap it in without the fear of it burning off my whole computer?
If yes... How/Where do i connect a molex cable to the power supply in order to power the 460?
I wouldn't. 580 + 460 would run almost 400W alone.

Eid said:
Is it worth the extra cash getting the 6950 2gb over the 1gb? I want to save the money, but I don't know if games in a few years would start requiring over 1gb.
I would. The Witcher 2 can already use more than 1GB.
 
MDSLKTR said:
GAF, I installed my gtx 580 on a Antec 650W (the requirements for the gpu are 600W min), everything is gravy. I wonder if I can use my previous gt 460 as a dedicated physx card, can I slap it in without the fear of it burning off my whole computer?
If yes... How/Where do i connect a molex cable to the power supply in order to power the 460?
use PSU calculator to get a good estimate if it will work out or not.

http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
 
Tea and Toast said:
In the process of researching what parts to buy for my new build.... why is it so hard to find a fairly plain/elegant/understated case.

What about a Cooler Master Silencio 550 chassis?

I am looking at the Corsair Carbide Series 400R It's sub $100 but has near the same level of quality that the 600T has but with a few features missing that are not that important to me (Built in Fan Controller and removable drive cages)
 
Cystm said:
What about a Cooler Master Silencio 550 chassis?

I am looking at the Corsair Carbide Series 400R It's sub $100 but has near the same level of quality that the 600T has but with a few features missing that are not that important to me (Built in Fan Controller and removable drive cages)

The best quality cases are by far Lian Li and Silverstone. I'd check out those.

The entry level Cooler Master cases have mediocre build quality compared to the companies mentioned above.
 
Ooccoo said:
Do you have suggestions? I'm a total noob. Someone told me SSD makes a huge difference so that's why it's included. Power supply will be changed to the one Velion suggested. For the 6950 I don't know either, really I'm just getting tips from people and don't understand a lot lol
The Hyper 212+ listed in the OP is a good choice, it performs well and can be had for $25-$30. Try not to pay more than that, sometimes shops will mark it up due to it's popularity.

Along with the cases Velion suggested I'd also throw in the Cooler Master 690 II Advanced, and the Corsair Carbide 400R (I plan on getting a 500R myself). Those are all great cases that are much easier to work in and offer more features for the price. Antec used to be heavily recommended, but they haven't updated their cases and these days there is something better at every price point.

The video card is fine, there are alternatives with good coolers that could save you $10 after rebate, but then you won't get free shipping on it so it negates the benefit.

And the SSD can make a big difference, just put your OS and certain programs/games that have notable benefits on it. Media and most games won't load any quicker off it so you can leave those on a HDD.
 
Might be stupid question, but how do I know for sure that I am using my ATI card instead of that Intel card while gaming?

x0wrxk.jpg
 
Dries said:
Might be stupid question, but how do I know for sure that I am using my ATI card instead of that Intel card while gaming?

x0wrxk.jpg

Unless you have a system capable of Lucidlogix Virtu, disable the onboard.
 
cartman414 said:
Did you have that H67 + i3 in mind for an HTPC?
i bought a H67 + i3-2100 combo from Microcenter using the $40 combo deal some months back. All worth it. Native 1080p streaming with no hiccups.

Yes, I use it as HTPC.
 
chaosblade said:
Disable the integrated graphics in the bios.

Also, the difference would be pretty staggering, you would definitely know if it was using the integrated one.

Cystm said:
Unless you have a system capable of Lucidlogix Virtu, disable the onboard.

Does it matter if I do it in the BIOS or not? And doesn't my PC need my on board at all?



Also.. when I boot up my PC it doesn't show the BIOS.. it just goes straight to windows. Everything works fine though. Should I be worried?
 
Dries said:
Does it matter if I do it in the BIOS or not? And doesn't my PC need my on board at all?

Disable it in the bios.

Clydefrog said:
and if I do have a mobo with Virtu + a discrete GTX 570? (going to build it next week hopefully.. IF MY CASE EVER COMES)

Then you should probably know that it essentially works based on what you are doing. Virtu aims to match each task with the GPU best suited to it.
IN otherwards if you are playing the new Deus Ex for example you will be using your GTX 570.
 
Dries said:
Also.. when I boot up my PC it doesn't show the BIOS.. it just goes straight to windows. Everything works fine though. Should I be worried?

You need to press the right button (usually F8 or DEL) to enter the BIOS. Easiest way is to just smash both repeatedly right after powering up and before the Windows loading screen. :P
 
Dries said:
Does it matter if I do it in the BIOS or not? And doesn't my PC need my on board at all?



Also.. when I boot up my PC it doesn't show the BIOS.. it just goes straight to windows. Everything works fine though. Should I be worried?

Accessing the bios is usually assigned to 'Del' or F2. If you cannot do that, then at the very least you can disable it in your Device Manager. You really should be able to access your bios though >.>
 
Dries said:
Does it matter if I do it in the BIOS or not? And doesn't my PC need my on board at all?



Also.. when I boot up my PC it doesn't show the BIOS.. it just goes straight to windows. Everything works fine though. Should I be worried?

You don't need to disable it in BIOS, if your monitor is plugged into your GPU not the motherboard then your fine.
 
Well, I mean I don't see ANYTHING until the windows screen pops up ;p But I guess nothing's wrong, cause everything works fine.
 
Dries said:
Well, I mean I don't see ANYTHING until the windows screen pops up ;p But I guess nothing's wrong, cause everything works fine.

Some monitors take some time to recognize input and wake from sleep and they can miss the boot screen but it doesn't matter as long as its plugged into your GPU your fine.
 
tehbible said:
i bought a H67 + i3-2100 combo from Microcenter using the $40 combo deal some months back. All worth it. Native 1080p streaming with no hiccups.

Yes, I use it as HTPC.

Awesomesauce. Too bad it only has the HD2000 and not the 3000.

Did you get a Blu-ray drive for it, out of curiosity?
 
cartman414 said:
Awesomesauce. Too bad it only has the HD2000 and not the 3000.

Did you get a Blu-ray drive for it, out of curiosity?

heeeeeck no.

i have a PS3 which is preferred as it has constant firmware updates.

I try to make it so my HTPC runs very quietly. Spinning optical drives just adds noise. But if its mandatory for you, that should be fine.
 
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