"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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So getting a new pc (gaming pc). Want to use my current pc as a media server/ everyday work pc. Only got one screen and KB+M combo. Already have a KVM switch and go deal with VGA| DVI to share the inputs.

Is there anything like the KVM switch for audio cables? Direct 6 Channels.

(Btw Logitech Z-5500 .. possible to have one hooked up for 6ch direct and one through the optical co-axial?)
 
·feist· said:
- AMD Bulldozer CPUs to be released shortly. Should do well in multi-threaded workloads.
- Consider stepping up to a 2500K (or, 2600K, if you can stretch). It's considerably better for your gaming and work/school (editing, encoding, etc.) needs.
- Mobo is dual channel.
- Case is fairly poor. Check out BitFenix Merc and OP $40 case options.
- GPU does not have lifetime warranty. Either switch to a different EVGA, or go with custom cooling: MSI TFII/III, Asus DCUII, Sparkle, Gainward Phantom, so on.

Processor: Intel CPU Core i5 Unlocked 2500K Sandy Bridge Quad Core Processor
Mobo: MSI P67A-GD53 (B3)
Memory: Corsair Memory XMS3 8GB DDR3 1333 Mhz
Case: Still looking.

Which GPU would be better?
MSI GeForce GTX 560 or MSI HD 6870 or a completely different one?
 
Dityrink said:
Anyone? =/
I think the more RAM a video card has the more textures it can handle, but I don't know how much you need. Nvidia cards all appear to be sub-2GB and nobody's complaining, so maybe a 1 GB 6950 is fine.
 
Added M4 news and that hardware site to OP.

I think I might go with a spreadsheet format to make it much easier to update the builds.
I'll miss the pictures. Maybe I can add them on the side.

**
Here's what I'm thinking so far.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...HZsOW9QVFRkZEpzcUplak5zZFUyYnc&hl=en_US&gid=0

Auto updated, super modular. Very easy for me to tinyurl and update and add links.
Dityrink said:
Anyone? =/
With the AA trend going to MLAA and FXAA for some titles and textures being a lot less important in a lot of games the 2GB doesn't seem as attractive as it should be.

However, with the small price difference I think if you are going to hold onto the card for over 12 or 18 months or so it is a nice insurance policy incase something ever does use more memory.

I'm biased since I bought a 8800GTS 320MB and it used more in Crysis and my FPS kept taking dives and that wasn't fun.

Caerith said:
So, my PC is 8 years old and somewhat subpar, and in the last few years I've been doing my gaming from a laptop. Which now has some hardware failure of its own. That is to say:
Budget: Flexible, US (So. Cal - taxed by NewEgg, 1 hour from MicroCenter Tustin)
Main Use: Gaming, 1080p playback, comfy couch
Monitor Resolution: 1900x1080
When will you build?: Within a week or two
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, but not immediately.
I haven't been budgeting for long, so right now I can spend maybe $1k but the longer I wait the more I can add to that. The catch is that I get bored waiting.

Here's what I'm looking at:
CPU: i5 2500k (MicroCenter: $180)
Mobo: Z68 - Maximus IV Gene Z (NewEgg: $180)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 8GB (2x4GB) 1600 (NewEgg: $55)
GPU: EVGA GTX570 (NewEgg: $320)
SSD: Crucial M4 128GB (NewEgg: $207)
HDD: TBD, will add later.

Case: Rosewill Challenger (NewEgg: $50)
PSU: Antec EarthWatts EA-650 650W (NewEgg: $60)

Comfy Couch:
HDMI Cable: 50ft (Monoprice: $40)
KB/M Stand: Dave (Ikea: $20)

I have a few questions still at this stage of planning:
What sort of cooling will I need?
How does one connect gamepads to a PC?
What's a good wired keyboard with keypad that also has a USB port for a wired mouse?
Even though I plan to do most of my gaming through my TV, what's a good-yet-cheap monitor for occasional use such as checking email or carting off to a friend's?

Any recommendations, changes, etc?
Parts look good to me. I'd check out the XFX Core 550/650W for single card or the Corsair 750W if you want some extra power down the line.

Cooling: Stock is fine, some extra fans on the case never hurt, Heatsink you want a CM Hyper 212+
Gamepads are through USB
Depends how much you want to spend and looks. I'd just browse newegg.
Depends on the size and res you want, you can get a lot of 1080p 22" Monitors for absurdly cheap today.
 
Hmm need some help pcgaf. I just bought a SSD and did a clean Windows install.. now my Nividia 465 seems unstable as shit. Over heating on stock temps.. and crashing with the fan turned up all the way. I can't figure out what changed since the install of my SSD... same video drivers and such. :/
 
Alright Gaf did anyone in this thread with an Asus P8P67 Pro get the bluetooth to work? The problem that I'm having is that the bluetooth light on the atx panel does come on and bluetooth also shows up in device manager with status of it being enabled, but it isn't discovering any devices and whenever I try to configure the "Sharing" tab in the settings window for Bluetooth Devices it always crashes and stops responding.


Extra info: installed the bluetooth drivers,uninstalled motionjoy, bluetooth is enabled in services.

The bluetooth is built onto the motherboard itself.

Sorry for the slight incoherence, but I just can't get this thing to work. I mean it's built onto the mobo for god's sake.
 
Saren is Bad said:
ey beys, quick q

got my ssd and 1tb harddrive in my 600t, normal drive cage. plug the power into the 1tb THEN i have to do some weird ass fanangling shit to plug it in to where it'll fit for the ssd.

like, i have to twist the cable around because it goes in one way for the 1tb then the way it needs to go in for the ssd (which on the device is the same) is opposite. am i fucking retarded or is corsair retarded?

reposting for this page, want to buy another hdd so would like some wisdom on this
 
Atomski said:
Hmm need some help pcgaf. I just bought a SSD and did a clean Windows install.. now my Nividia 465 seems unstable as shit. Over heating on stock temps.. and crashing with the fan turned up all the way. I can't figure out what changed since the install of my SSD... same video drivers and such. :/

Hmm what is your Power Supply? Only thing I can think is adding a SSD to your setup took more power and perhaps pushed you up a little bit if you were close to the max already? If your psu is a 650 or 750 disregard this.
 
Saren is Bad said:
reposting for this page, want to buy another hdd so would like some wisdom on this

Are the SATA data ports and SATA power ports on both drives oriented the same way? SATA data port to the right of the SATA power port on both drives?

edit:

If youy are talking about the SATA power cable coming from the PSU, those can be annoying. Like on my setup, you'd think the top most drive would be powered by the SATA power connector at the end of the cable. But no, b/c I have to turn them upside down, the top drive is connected by the bottom most power connector on the cable. Significantly reducing the reach of the cable. Fortunately I don't need a long run, otherwise I'd be really annoyed.
 
squicken said:
Are the SATA data ports and SATA power ports on both drives oriented the same way? SATA data port to the right of the SATA power port on both drives?

edit:

If youy are talking about the SATA power cable coming from the PSU, those can be annoying. Like on my setup, you'd think the top most drive would be powered by the SATA power connector at the end of the cable. But no, b/c I have to turn them upside down, the top drive is connected by the bottom most power connector on the cable. Significantly reducing the reach of the cable. Fortunately I don't need a long run, otherwise I'd be really annoyed.

Yeah thats what I'm talking about, the power. I guess I just need to look at it again. I plugged the 1st device with the 1st power out and then had to like twist the cable upside down to plug in the next and it was messy as shit. I'll try using them in the opposite order like you did
 
Hazaro said:
However, with the small price difference I think if you are going to hold onto the card for over 12 or 18 months or so it is a nice insurance policy incase something ever does use more memory.

I'm biased since I bought a 8800GTS 320MB and it used more in Crysis and my FPS kept taking dives and that wasn't fun.
Similarly I had a lot of stuttering in the Witcher 2 that probably wouldn't have been there had my 4870 had a gigabyte of memory rather than half a gigabyte, given that it was able to reliably do 40+ FPS on at least medium. Of course, I haven't had such problems with anything else except texture packs for Bethesda games, so it's also very possible more than a gigabyte doesn't serve much purpose unless some crazy texture pack for Skyrim is released, or at least by the tie it matters you really should be getting a new card anyway.

Speaking of cards: ended up grabbing this PNY 560 Ti card that's overclocked. Probably could've fared better with something like the ASUS DirectCUII or the MSI Hawk when it comes to heating, but it's not much hotter than the 4870 was under load and is even cooler when idling.
 
Hazaro said:
Parts look good to me. I'd check out the XFX Core 550/650W for single card or the Corsair 750W if you want some extra power down the line.

Cooling: Stock is fine, some extra fans on the case never hurt, Heatsink you want a CM Hyper 212+
Gamepads are through USB
Depends how much you want to spend and looks. I'd just browse newegg.
Depends on the size and res you want, you can get a lot of 1080p 22" Monitors for absurdly cheap today.
Hm. For the extra price, what does the XFX Core do better than the Earthwatts?

Besides adding a heatsink, I was looking to get two more fans with dust filters to cover the Rosewill Challenger's side panels. Do PSU fans blow in or out these days?
 
wowzors said:
Hmm what is your Power Supply? Only thing I can think is adding a SSD to your setup took more power and perhaps pushed you up a little bit if you were close to the max already? If your psu is a 650 or 750 disregard this.


Yeah power supply is 750 so I dont think thats it.. I had another crash and the temps weren't even high so maybe its not that. Really wish I could get a new video card cause this one had gave me some issues in the past. I can't afford it right now though :/.
 
Caerith said:
Hm. For the extra price, what does the XFX Core do better than the Earthwatts?

Besides adding a heatsink, I was looking to get two more fans with dust filters to cover the Rosewill Challenger's side panels. Do PSU fans blow in or out these days?
Better efficiency, better parts, better voltages. If you don't mind the extra cables get it.

PSU fans take air from inside the case and blow it outside.
 
New post for me to make it easier to find later on.
Please leave some feedback on anything. Parts, colors, readability, explanation text, etc.

http://tinyurl.com/HazPCSep2011
Here's the preliminary updated build spreadsheet.

I've changed from the nice updated .png because it simply took far too long to substitute any change even though it looked nice.

E77Lm.png
 
I think you're going in the right direction with the spreadsheet. I'd keep all the builds on one page maybe with a comments column to the right of each one, maybe use colored shading to make it obvious which columns (incl. price) are part of which build, etc.

Also, you might want to update the OP with Tech Report's more recent system guides:
Summer 2011
Back to School (mid-August update)
 
Added.
The original reason I was going to have 2 sheets is because I wanted it to be more compact, but it's probably more share friendly if I just make a long JPG/PNG out of it like the Falcon Guide.

Also, just pointing it out... a capable gaming rig (granted near bare minimum on excess) with a GTX 460 1GB for $442 with student Win 7 is just ABSURD. I mean really. Wow.

Updated:
bdwZt.png
 
Hazaro said:
Added.
The original reason I was going to have 2 sheets is because I wanted it to be more compact, but it's probably more share friendly if I just make a long JPG/PNG out of it like the Falcon Guide.

Also, just pointing it out... a capable gaming rig (granted near bare minimum on excess) with a GTX 460 1GB for $442 with student Win 7 is just ABSURD. I mean really. Wow.

Updated:
http://i.imgur.com/bdwZt.png
I think you can still go with a spreadsheet, you just need to play to Excel's strengths. How about something like this? Link

Instead of extra-wide, go extra-long but with filters so you don't have to be as cumbersome as a Falcon 2.0.

Does student Win 7 work off just a USB? Same question re: updating an SSD's bios (ie, Crucial M4)?
 
Caerith said:
I think you can still go with a spreadsheet, you just need to play to Excel's strengths. How about something like this? Link

Instead of extra-wide, go extra-long but with filters so you don't have to be as cumbersome as a Falcon 2.0.

Does student Win 7 work off just a USB? Same question re: updating an SSD's bios (ie, Crucial M4)?

I've updated the firmware using PenDriveLinux before. I remember looking in the iso and seeing Linux files.
 
squicken said:
I've updated the firmware using PenDriveLinux before. I remember looking in the iso and seeing Linux files.
That is awesome. How large of a USB drive do you need for this? I just got a blank 4GB gifted to me and think maybe it's fate.
 
Oh that's more than enough. The firmware itself is tiny, and the Linux boot files slightly less tiny.

If you that program I mentioned, you'll just choose the iso (firmware) from your hard drive, then chosse "New sysLinux" from the drop down box. When you update, make sure your drives are in IDE or AHCI, can't remember which. Both modes probably work.
 
Caerith said:
I think you can still go with a spreadsheet, you just need to play to Excel's strengths. How about something like this? Link

Instead of extra-wide, go extra-long but with filters so you don't have to be as cumbersome as a Falcon 2.0.

Does student Win 7 work off just a USB? Same question re: updating an SSD's bios (ie, Crucial M4)?
Microsoft has a tool that puts the .iso onto a bootable USB for you.
Running off a USB I don't see why not. It'd be slow as heck though.

BIOS updates I do with a USB drive. Pretty easy. Don't know how it is for the M4.

For the Spreadsheet I'd rather be longer in case it clips on some smaller monitors.
I have it the way it is now because I want people to see the side by side part and price comparison (e.g. the $89 G840 is next to the $125 i3 2100) and you don't get that if each list is separate.

I'm not going to have a list of 10 different grade parts, instead a more compacted 6, or even just 5.
 
Aselith said:
I'm not sure what you mean here since I don't see anything like that in Deus Ex nor did I ever see any issues with STALKER. And this isn't a widespread complaint as far as I have ever heard. It's not the game. Something is wrong with the way it's interacting with his computer.

with me there's a total of 4 gaffers who are experiencing this, according to the deus ex thread, and they back it up with screenshots. Those who say it doesnt happen in their game are remembering incorrectly. Ports are really terrible at doing this these days.

The reason you dont see it is because it happens on dynamic shadows and deus ex HR doesnt have a lot of those, and its pretty dark for the most part. If you wanna help me out id appreciate if you can go to that same spot and take a screenshot, so we could find out if its there or not. Id be really thankful since im still trying to figure this out myself.
 
Well, I bit the bullet on that M4 deal and finally got myself an SSD. Thanks for helping me spend money GAF. Still active as of this post, not sure how long it is supposed to be.

And thanks for the reply fiest. Saw a Corsair rep say that the Carbide cases should have roughly 18cm clearance for CPU coolers, but he didn't have exact measurements. Should fit, but I'm probably just sticking with my plan for the Silver Arrow unless something better (or at least more consistently better) is available in the next couple months.
 
Alright, I think I've finally decided on what I need in my next PC, as well as have the money ready to go.
Your Current Specs: Q6600, 4Gb RAM, 460gtx, 1440x900 monitor
Budget: Around $1000 in Australia
Main Use: Heavy gaming, Steam, Dolphin, media playback, little bit of Photoshop, C++ and music mixing.
Monitor Resolution: 1400x900 for now. Looking at this 1920x1200 24 inch LED down the track
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Skyrim, The Witcher 2 on Uber
Are reusing any parts?: ASUS VW193D monitor, Logitech X-530 5.1 speakers, Logitech G-930 7.1 wireless headphones, Logitech MK700 key+mouse, 2Tb Green drive for media storage, 460gtx.
When will you build?: Within the next 2 months. Before The Witcher 2.0 preferably.
Will you be overclocking?: Absolutely yes on the CPU.

Looking to retire my current PC to my parents to avoid constant phone calls about their POS machine. At least this way I will understand the system and be able to talk them through it easier. Will swap out the 460 for my old 9800 that was still working fine.

Basically I have settled on an i5 2500k with a 212+ overclocking somewhere over 4Ghz depending on noise levels. This will be the most impressive upgrade I get the impression. Looking forward to multi-tracking and emulation with the 2500k.
Keeping the 460 I bought nearly 12 months ago as it seems to do the job fine, will look to upgrade to a mid range card in another 12 months or more depending on how far up requirements go by then.
Going with some 1333Mhz G-Skill 2x4Gb RAM as it's at a good price.
Will pick up a Crucial M4 128Gb since they haven't had any problems and the recent firmware release pushed up the speeds. Will be used for OS, Steam and programs that I use every day.
Really want decent sound so the Xonar DG seems like a great option. Also grabbing a Noctua fan for the case as I want to keep it pretty quiet and a cheap Samsung DVD drive as my current one is going great. Love the look of the CM 690 II Advanced.

I THINK that I will grab a HX-650 PSU as I won't ever go for SLI or a top of the line GPU. It's modular which should help make the install easier and hopefully it runs quiet. Certainly open to other alternatives though since it is still $140.
Tossing up now over either the ASUS P8Z68-V or the P8Z68-V LE. I don't fully understand the $40 difference, will the built in bluetooth of the V mean I can do away with my dongle for Dolphin? Are there any other benefits in it for me?
Next is mouse and keyboard. My study is between the 2 bedrooms so I would love to find the quietest keyboard available. This one seems nice and remarks that it is quiet, no idea in this area though. Mouse is less of a worry as I don't play competitive MP so would prefer wireless, preferably with at least 2 extra buttons. Looking at a Mamba for no reason other than it looking really nice and having an impressive list of features, no idea if those features actually make it worth the money though.

Hopefully I haven't made any obvious mistakes and the choice of motherboard is a simple one.
 
When installing the OS onto a SSD make sure only the SSD is connected to the motherboard via sata or windows will install some files onto the HDD also.
Enable AHCI and hot-plugging if available through bios.
Don't benchmark SSD's and run your windows score as this will disable defrag and superfetch and also enable TRIM.
I had a 1TB drive with my games on it but what I have started doing is putting the game I play at this moment on my SSD such as WOW and arma2, 2 great games that really benefit from a SSD.
 
reptilescorpio said:
Alright, I think I've finally decided on what I need in my next PC, as well as have the money ready to go.
Your Current Specs: Q6600, 4Gb RAM, 460gtx, 1440x900 monitor
Budget: Around $1000 in Australia
Main Use: Heavy gaming, Steam, Dolphin, media playback, little bit of Photoshop, C++ and music mixing.
Monitor Resolution: 1400x900 for now. Looking at this 1920x1200 24 inch LED down the track
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Skyrim, The Witcher 2 on Uber
Are reusing any parts?: ASUS VW193D monitor, Logitech X-530 5.1 speakers, Logitech G-930 7.1 wireless headphones, Logitech MK700 key+mouse, 2Tb Green drive for media storage, 460gtx.
When will you build?: Within the next 2 months. Before The Witcher 2.0 preferably.
Will you be overclocking?: Absolutely yes on the CPU.

Looking to retire my current PC to my parents to avoid constant phone calls about their POS machine. At least this way I will understand the system and be able to talk them through it easier. Will swap out the 460 for my old 9800 that was still working fine.

Basically I have settled on an i5 2500k with a 212+ overclocking somewhere over 4Ghz depending on noise levels. This will be the most impressive upgrade I get the impression. Looking forward to multi-tracking and emulation with the 2500k.
Keeping the 460 I bought nearly 12 months ago as it seems to do the job fine, will look to upgrade to a mid range card in another 12 months or more depending on how far up requirements go by then.
Going with some 1333Mhz G-Skill 2x4Gb RAM as it's at a good price.
Will pick up a Crucial M4 128Gb since they haven't had any problems and the recent firmware release pushed up the speeds. Will be used for OS, Steam and programs that I use every day.
Really want decent sound so the Xonar DG seems like a great option. Also grabbing a Noctua fan for the case as I want to keep it pretty quiet and a cheap Samsung DVD drive as my current one is going great. Love the look of the CM 690 II Advanced.

I THINK that I will grab a HX-650 PSU as I won't ever go for SLI or a top of the line GPU. It's modular which should help make the install easier and hopefully it runs quiet. Certainly open to other alternatives though since it is still $140.
Tossing up now over either the ASUS P8Z68-V or the P8Z68-V LE. I don't fully understand the $40 difference, will the built in bluetooth of the V mean I can do away with my dongle for Dolphin? Are there any other benefits in it for me?
Next is mouse and keyboard. My study is between the 2 bedrooms so I would love to find the quietest keyboard available. This one seems nice and remarks that it is quiet, no idea in this area though. Mouse is less of a worry as I don't play competitive MP so would prefer wireless, preferably with at least 2 extra buttons. Looking at a Mamba for no reason other than it looking really nice and having an impressive list of features, no idea if those features actually make it worth the money though.

Hopefully I haven't made any obvious mistakes and the choice of motherboard is a simple one.
520W Seasonic can save you a touch.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_535&products_id=15957

The F12 fans for $11 are also fluid bearing and should be quite similar while being much cheaper.

The LE is a better buy since the other is geared towards multiple GPUs and a lot of the cost comes from that.

The onboard bluetooth for motherboards I think is usually iffy, I'd keep your dongle but you can try both.

For $40 I'd give onboard a shot before buying a soundcard. It's pretty damn decent and I can't really pick out any differences from my ASUS P8P67 onboard and Xonar DG with my ATH-AD700 headphones. If you are more picky you might.
 
Every other top brand SSD has issues (Although it looks like the Intel 8MB bug is more rare than the M4 freezing (I don't know if this was fixed in an update).

It's fast and priced well.
 
grkazan12 said:
Alright Gaf did anyone in this thread with an Asus P8P67 Pro get the bluetooth to work? The problem that I'm having is that the bluetooth light on the atx panel does come on and bluetooth also shows up in device manager with status of it being enabled, but it isn't discovering any devices and whenever I try to configure the "Sharing" tab in the settings window for Bluetooth Devices it always crashes and stops responding.


Extra info: installed the bluetooth drivers,uninstalled motionjoy, bluetooth is enabled in services.

The bluetooth is built onto the motherboard itself.

Sorry for the slight incoherence, but I just can't get this thing to work. I mean it's built onto the mobo for god's sake.

Anyone?, can anyone recommend a good and cheap dongle that works with motionjoy if there's no fix?
 
grkazan12 said:
Anyone?, can anyone recommend a good and cheap dongle that works with motionjoy if there's no fix?
http://www.overclock.net/intel-motherboards/973535-p8p67-pro-bluetooth.html
?
I don't use mine and have 0 BT devices around.
Omiee said:
I would think the 2 Dell's are IPS which have better colors and slower response times.
Samsung is probably TN which is faster, but worse colors.

xFire 6950's no problem.
 
Is it abnormal for a computer to freeze momentarily when programs are being installed? Sometimes when Windows is installing updates, I notice that the cursor becomes unresponsive for a couple seconds, and if I'm watching a video or listening to a song, the audio gets distorted.
 
ColonelColon said:
Is it abnormal for a computer to freeze momentarily when programs are being installed? Sometimes when Windows is installing updates, I notice that the cursor becomes unresponsive for a couple seconds, and if I'm watching a video or listening to a song, the audio gets distorted.
Sounds like it could be a hard drive problem to me. I used to have that issue.
Might be RAM or some wonky driver too.

Give CCleaner a run, run your vendor's HDD diagnostic, and burn memtest 86+ to a cd and run that for 15 mins.
 
darkblade77 said:
Okay... I know max wattage generally is misleading when it comes to PSU performance, but I just read a few minutes ago on another MB that this PSU

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151063

could handle a GTX 400-series card and an i5 2xxx CPU as long as there wasn't overclocking involved. Is this really true?

I almost considered looking at theIn Win BK-series cases as a result of reading that(their PSUs match that form factor). They're the smallest I've ever seen as far as mATX cases go, and the pictures seem to indicate they have clearance outside of requiring a short heatsink. But the lack of any real fans(or room for them) in the case itself was a bit too scary.

I understand that the Maximus IV Gene-Z has a sound card built in that's a shade above your average integrated audio. Is it good enough to forgo thinking about a discrete sound card?

Also, since I seem to only be asking question after question in this thread, I'd like to contribute a little by posting this case size chart from Techreaction.net. Very informative bundle of info on case dimensions and whether they will fit components like cpu heat sinks, graphics cards, etc. It doesn't seem to be complete, but it does still see updates and has a lot of popular cases inside already.

Just reposting this because I'm interested in the answers, especially the one about the Maximus IV.

I finally settled on the Silverstone GD05B case for sure; pulled the trigger to keep myself from looking back. I still kinda want the Define Mini, but finding out it's bigger than my current old XION ATX case killed the magic for me. In the end I'm still looking for something that's relatively SFF, and the Grandia works for that very well.
 
Hazaro said:
Sounds like it could be a hard drive problem to me. I used to have that issue.
Might be RAM or some wonky driver too.

Give CCleaner a run, run your vendor's HDD diagnostic, and burn memtest 86+ to a cd and run that for 15 mins.

Yeah, I think my hard drive might be damaged too, but I haven't been able to confirm it. I've actually tried all of the things you suggested. Hitachi's Drive Fitness Test doesn't find any errors on my HDD. :/
 
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