"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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DennisK4 said:
Ran the Unigine Benchmark @ 2560 x 1600, 8XAA, All settings at max with Extreme Tessellation....

....getting a perfectly playable 40 fps real-time....


<(^_^)>

even in front of the dragon statue ? :o

that thing slays fps on extreme tessellation :p
 
Q8D3vil said:
damn bottleneck, when i run crysis 2 i get like 50-60 fps without full load on my gpus ( both on 70 %), i also have this issue with other games like metro 2033.
also, i'm suspecting that some of the rams are dying because some time windows shows only 4 gb are working then i have to shut down the pc for a while then turn it on to recognize all of the rams.

I think everyone has issues with metro 2033.
Probably a silly question but you are running a 64 windows aren't you?
 
Thank it worked, it did not have 1600 in the options only 1648 or something.
anyhow last question.

i want to get Asus VG236HE monitor, it has 120hz and 3d.
since i have a ati card, i was wondering if i could still play 3d movie's, i dont care about the gaming.
 
Omiee said:
Thank it worked, it did not have 1600 in the options only 1648 or something.

are you sure your FSB is set to 100.0 mhz and not 103.0 or something? Set it too 100.0 as a higher FSB doesn't really do anything worthwhile on a p67 motherboard but will give you a higher chance of instability (overclock the CPU using the multiplier not the FSB)
 
n0n44m said:
are you sure your FSB is set to 100.0 mhz and not 103.0 or something? Set it too 100.0 as a higher FSB doesn't really do anything worthwhile on a p67 motherboard but will give you a higher chance of instability (overclock the CPU using the multiplier not the FSB)


Ok i have to ask again, where do i change it to 100.0? And i did not do manual cpu overclock, i did the bios overclock thing that only asks you to push 1 button.

I did not know putting my memory to 1600 could affect cpu as well.
 
Omiee said:
Ok i have to ask again, where do i change it to 100.0?

should be one of the first options in the AI tweak menu in bios, set "overclock tuner" to manual and then make sure the option that appears below it (BCLK/PEG Frequency) is set to 100.0

you can also set it to "X.M.P." and then set the same frequency to 100.0, that XMP option should automatically adjust all timings for your RAM to optimal values but I haven't tested that myself yet, I rather do everything manually :p

---wait OK then it is probably because of the automatic overclocking ... well I've used that before as well for fun but not really to run 24/7 ... voltage settings are usually quite high when doing that and it adjusts BCLK/PEG Frequency as well for no real reason. I would just go with the settings that the automatic overclock settings found, then enter them yourself in the bios with a BCLK of 100 (which will make you lose about 150 mhz of CPU speed).

If you read a couple of Sandy Bridge overclocking guides they'll all tell you to keep it simple, set the BCLK to 100, enter memory settings manually or using the XMP, then up the CPU multiplier till it gets unstable, up the voltage to get over instability, up CPU multiplier again, voltage again and so on until you get to ~1.35v voltage which is the recommended safe maximum on aircooling

the whole higher BCLK thing is nice for suicide-run-benchmarking, but will gain you hardly anything more but potential instability and other headaches for 24/7 usage ;)
 
So, what is the best way to get wireless internet onto my new desktop? I'm paying for 25 mb wireless internet, but this usb adapter I bought is only pulling 3 :/. I can barely play TF2 for 10 minutes before my ping explodes.

Help!
 
Red Blaster said:
My GTX 570 is, for some reason, now idling at 50C instead of the usual 38-40. Any ideas why? My CPU temps are still fine (35-38).

did you recently install new drivers? Specifically 280.xx series.
 
CrocMother said:
So, what is the best way to get wireless internet onto my new desktop? I'm paying for 25 mb wireless internet, but this usb adapter I bought is only pulling 3 :/. I can barely play TF2 for 10 minutes before my ping explodes.

Help!
Do you *need* wireless? If so, get one of the PCI slot cards from ASUS. If not, wired is *always* better.
 
n0n44m said:
should be one of the first options in the AI tweak menu in bios, set "overclock tuner" to manual and then make sure the option that appears below it (BCLK/PEG Frequency) is set to 100.0

you can also set it to "X.M.P." and then set the same frequency to 100.0, that XMP option should automatically adjust all timings for your RAM to optimal values but I haven't tested that myself yet, I rather do everything manually :p

---wait OK then it is probably because of the automatic overclocking ... well I've used that before as well for fun but not really to run 24/7 ... voltage settings are usually quite high when doing that and it adjusts BCLK/PEG Frequency as well for no real reason. I would just go with the settings that the automatic overclock settings found, then enter them yourself in the bios with a BCLK of 100 (which will make you lose about 150 mhz of CPU speed).

If you read a couple of Sandy Bridge overclocking guides they'll all tell you to keep it simple, set the BCLK to 100, enter memory settings manually or using the XMP, then up the CPU multiplier till it gets unstable, up the voltage to get over instability, up CPU multiplier again, voltage again and so on until you get to ~1.35v voltage which is the recommended safe maximum on aircooling

the whole higher BCLK thing is nice for suicide-run-benchmarking, but will gain you hardly anything more but potential instability and other headaches for 24/7 usage ;)

Hmm fuck, i bought this motherboard because of the easy overclock option. Im not really experienced with overclocking etc. And its been performing pretty stable the last few months.

But i did go to the bios menu, and i set it to 100.0 instead of 103.0 where it was and saved and exited but when i went to the bios again, it was 103.0 again.

Question, if i get it to work on 100.0 will this mean my overclock speed will be lower as well of my cpu?
 
Q8D3vil said:
this is my current pc
i7 920
2xgtx 570
3x2 ddr3 1333mhz rams
evga tri sli

i have a bottleneck issues and i tried to fix it by ocing my cpu (i have an old noctua fan but it was the best when i bought it) but my cpu crushes when i overclock it to 3.6 or beyond (its the old 920 btw, can't overclock to 4.0 anyway).

i was thinking of upgrading to 2500k (i heard there is not difference between 2500k and 2600k in gaming).
should i upgrade to sandy bridge should i wait for the upcoming cpu's (when are they coming btw?)
thanks

Definitely wait. You'd have to buy a new mobo too since the bloomfield CPUs use LGA 1366. Sandy Bridge uses 1155. Wait for Bulldozer or next jump by intel or AMD. When BD comes out intel will also lower prices if you want to stick with them.
 
CrocMother said:
So, what is the best way to get wireless internet onto my new desktop? I'm paying for 25 mb wireless internet, but this usb adapter I bought is only pulling 3 :/. I can barely play TF2 for 10 minutes before my ping explodes.

Help!

Best way to get wireless internet to your desktop is to run a wire to it. You can try getting a 802.11n 3x3 router like this but I'm not sure what desktop cards would support 3x3, definitely not a USB one thats for sure. Next step up is to get a beam forming access point like one from Ruckus but they don't sell retail.

Alternatively you can try powerline networking.
 
Any ideas on whats the best option for me GPU wise? Currently use an Asus 5770 512mb, game at 1920x1080. Looking online I've seen the 6870 1Gb for about £140 or the 6950 2Gb for £195. Both come with DiRT3 (which I have) and Deus Ex: HR (which I don't).

Budget is £200 max, but I'd obviously like lower. Checking Anandtech, the performance difference between the 6870 and 6950 isn't massive, like 7-10fps. The only thing that worries me about the 6870 is the 1Gb VRAM, which I guess is ok for 1080p, but with BF3 and Skyrim, I'm not sure if they will require that bit extra.

My specs are: X4 640 @ 3.6Ghz, 4Gb ram, TP-750 PSU. My motherboard is crossfire enabled too, as I was thinking of getting another 6870/6950 next year when the prices drop after the 7 series come out (if I need it).

Cheers!
 
Here's where I am.

Note: No case (waiting for the Merc to be available) No additional fans, no OS, and I'm thinking about a SSD just for windows. Thoughts?

1K2f0.jpg


EDIT: hahahahaha lets try this again.
 
TheDude108 said:
Any ideas on whats the best option for me GPU wise?
6870 is a good card for your proc, which will really be the bottleneck in higher end cards. I have a 6870 mated to a 965 @ stock speeds on a secondary rig, which is pretty similar to what your setup would be. Outside of the stupid GPU hogs like Metro, or DX11 Crysis 2, it destroys games.

Tallshortman said:
You'll see ~9 fps gain from 6950 over the 6870, which I consider very significant when playing demanding games. I'd say the 6950 is definitely a better buy. 6950 is also a better scaler in CF with an *average of 85-90% with some games getting close to 100% scaling.
In a perfect setting, possibly, but that 640 might reduce those gains. Additionally, you're mistaken on the 6950 scaling better, but something like that shouldn't really be part of the equation unless he meets the critera in the OP guide on x-fire. 6870 right now is the best scaling 6xxx series card.
 
TheDude108 said:
Any ideas on whats the best option for me GPU wise? Currently use an Asus 5770 512mb, game at 1920x1080. Looking online I've seen the 6870 1Gb for about £140 or the 6950 2Gb for £195. Both come with DiRT3 (which I have) and Deus Ex: HR (which I don't).

Budget is £200 max, but I'd obviously like lower. Checking Anandtech, the performance difference between the 6870 and 6950 isn't massive, like 7-10fps. The only thing that worries me about the 6870 is the 1Gb VRAM, which I guess is ok for 1080p, but with BF3 and Skyrim, I'm not sure if they will require that bit extra.

My specs are: X4 640 @ 3.6Ghz, 4Gb ram, TP-750 PSU. My motherboard is crossfire enabled too, as I was thinking of getting another 6870/6950 next year when the prices drop after the 7 series come out (if I need it).

Cheers!

You'll see ~9 fps gain from 6950 over the 6870, which I consider very significant when playing demanding games. I'd say the 6950 is definitely a better buy if you upgrade your CPU, otherwise you may get bottlenecked.. 6950 is also a better scaler in CF with an *average of 85-90% with some games getting close to 100% scaling. 6870 is fine but I'm assuming you'll want to upgrade your CPU if you do CF (to avoid bottlenecks) so for that I'd certainly recommend the 6950 over the 6870 in that case.
 
Omiee said:
Hmm fuck, i bought this motherboard because of the easy overclock option. Im not really experienced with overclocking etc. And its been performing pretty stable the last few months.

But i did go to the bios menu, and i set it to 100.0 instead of 103.0 where it was and saved and exited but when i went to the bios again, it was 103.0 again.

Question, if i get it to work on 100.0 will this mean my overclock speed will be lower as well of my cpu?

well it's a great board :D but the easy overclock is just a marketing tool IMHO :p

but if it has been stable then it is stable enough I guess, although I would be interested to see if it is really 10 hours Prime 95 blend stable (my automatic overclock was game stable, not Prime 95 stable)

it goes back because it is still set to automatic overclock mode I guess

and yes going to 100 instead of 103 will give you for example 45*100 = 4500 mhz instead of 45*103 = 4635mhz .. but why not set it to 46*100 for 4600 then ;)

the reason the BCLK overclocking is not advised is because it overclocks a lot of vital components as well on Sandy Bridge (SATA, USB, PCI-E controllers and whatnot). Intel has specifically done this to make this sort of overclocking very hard with very little possible rewards, so everyone who does want to overclock buys their 2500K/2600K with unlocked CPU multipliers
 
Red Blaster said:
Yeah, installed 280.26 about a week ago.

Go back to 275 and see if that doesn't lower your temps, it did for me. 280.26 ( or was it .16 ) is messed up.
 
cwmartin said:
Here's where I am.

Note: No case (waiting for the Merc to be available) No additional fans, no OS, and I'm thinking about a SSD just for windows. Thoughts?

DatBlur.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]

Have to do the avatar quote here :)
 
Corky said:
Go back to 275 and see if that doesn't lower your temps, it did for me. 280.26 ( or was it .16 ) is messed up.

nah its 280.26...where is the file for the 275.xx driver? I wanna install that one for my new 570 when it arrives today.
 
Trying to convince a buddy that SSD's aren't going to make a world of difference for gaming load times. That's still the case, correct?
 
Is there any benefit to installing Steam on my SSD drive, or should I just install it to my mechanical drive? If I install it on the mechanical drive can I use the Steam mover app to move certain games to the SSD?
 
belvedere said:
Trying to convince a buddy that SSD's aren't going to make a world of difference for gaming load times. That's still the case, correct?
No, they're substantially faster. If he has the money to spend on it, by all means. I mean, if I had the means, you can bet your ass I'd have 4 Crucial M4s 256s in RAID 0 for my games drive.
 
cwmartin said:
Shit. Small/Blurry/Big? It looks fine to me but I want to improve it for ya'll

Fixed it!

Looks pretty solid to me. Same build I just put together except for different motherboard, PSU, and cooling.
 
belvedere said:
Trying to convince a buddy that SSD's aren't going to make a world of difference for gaming load times. That's still the case, correct?

Difference is dramatic for MMOs.

Yes. Dramatic.
 
ChRoNiTe said:
Is there any benefit to installing Steam on my SSD drive, or should I just install it to my mechanical drive? If I install it on the mechanical drive can I use the Steam mover app to move certain games to the SSD?

See the OP for tools that let you move games between the SSD and a second drive.

I have Steam installed on my SSD and use the tool to put all games on my F3.

It moves the games files and creates a link in your Steam directory.

You can use it to move a game or games back to your SSD if you want the extra benefit.
 
sn1pes said:
Looks pretty solid to me. Same build I just put together except for different motherboard, PSU, and cooling.

What PSU did you go for? I really like that Antec for the modular (Keep messiness down with wires). But i'd prefer it black (lol).
 
mkenyon said:
No, they're substantially faster. If he has the money to spend on it, by all means. I mean, if I had the means, you can bet your ass I'd have 4 Crucial M4s 256s in RAID 0 for my games drive.

The last I saw, there wasn't even a 10% increase in load time performance for most games. I think WoW and other heavy texture streaming games saw a noticeable gain, but that was it.

So it's better now?
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
nah its 280.26...where is the file for the 275.xx driver? I wanna install that one for my new 570 when it arrives today.

nvidia has their old files under Download Drivers -> beta/archived drivers

---

SSDs do improve loading times on games (actual performance only on a few select titles), but if that's worth the cost/space ... I just have my games on a HDD and move only the recent one I'm playing most to the SSD
 
belvedere said:
The last I saw, there wasn't even a 10% increase in load time performance for most games. I think WoW and other heavy texture streaming games saw a noticeable gain, but that was it.

So it's better now?
Yes, SSD's are getting faster, if that is what you are asking.

Sequential load times used to be where SSDs didn't have a huge lead, but with drives 5x faster than what they were even 2 years ago, that's changed. In games that have random loads (SSDs traditional strength), like MMOs, the differences are pretty huge.

There's a difference between better, and better for the money. For the money, I still use mechanical RAIDs for games. If I made millions, that gain by switching to SSD would be worth it. There's no question that they're better, but if he's on a budget it's very questionable.
 
mkenyon said:
Yes, SSD's are getting faster, if that is what you are asking.

Sequential load times used to be where SSDs didn't have a huge lead, but with drives 5x faster than what they were even 2 years ago, that's changed. In games that have random loads (SSDs traditional strength), like MMOs, the differences are pretty huge.

There's a difference between better, and better for the money. For the money, I still use mechanical RAIDs for games. If I made millions, that gain by switching to SSD would be worth it. There's no question that they're better, but if he's on a budget it's very questionable.

With the prices dropping, they definitely sound more appealing.
 
mkenyon said:
Do you *need* wireless? If so, get one of the PCI slot cards from ASUS. If not, wired is *always* better.

Thanks, I'll check out those cards. Router is on the first floor, I'm on the third (on the other side of the house), so wired isn't an option.
 
Hey guys..In my BIOS I see iGPU offset value +/- is that where i can turn off my onboard video on my z68 board? or is that something else? I would sure like to know and thanks.
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
Hey guys..In my BIOS I see iGPU offset value +/- is that where i can turn off my onboard video on my z68 board? or is that something else? I would sure like to know and thanks.

that sounds like the voltage setting so no

If you can turn it off it should probably be somewhere among Advanced -> Onboard Devices Configuration
 
cwmartin said:
What PSU did you go for? I really like that Antec for the modular (Keep messiness down with wires). But i'd prefer it black (lol).

I grabbed the Corsair TX650 from some recommendations here in this thread. Not modular, but I have all my extra cables hidden behind my motherboard (case has good cable management).
 
So I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger and order my pieces. I haven't looked to much for a guide yet but most end right after finishing building hardware wise. How experienced should one be software wise? Once I build it I can't just place my Windows 7 disk in correct? I have to do some BIOS related stuff right?
 
VGChampion said:
So I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger and order my pieces. I haven't looked to much for a guide yet but most end right after finishing building hardware wise. How experienced should one be software wise? Once I build it I can't just place my Windows 7 disk in correct? I have to do some BIOS related stuff right?
Yep, have to mess around with BIOS a bit, such as setting the primary boot disk to the optical drive and setting your SATA ports to AHCI. You should really familiarize yourself with all the BIOS settings, and because of this, the best piece of advice for a new builder is to RTFM.
 
I'm loving my new PC. Thanks for the feedback everyone. It blazes through every game I've played.

I need to figure out what to do with my old speakers though. I think I'd like a decent, affordable 2.1 setup (hovering around $100) and a decent pair of headphones with a microphone attached. Anyone have any recommendations? I've been looking at the following:

Corsaid HS1 Headphones

Logitech Z623 2.1 Speakers

Creative GigaWorks T40 2.0 Speakers

One more thing of note: Whenever I use my current headphones (connected to my mono, didn't buy a sound card ) I get a buzzing sound when I move my headphones. Is this because I'm using cheap headphones or because I'm connected to my mobo? Is there a way to fix this without buying a sound card?

This is my motherboard by the way.
 
Clydefrog said:
ho-lee shit! let me know if that works out for you

The guy has been real responsive in emails. So I guess we'll see. I am protected by Amazon and my AMEX in case all goes south so I'm not too worried. Under $800 for a 580 SLI setup. Heh.
 
mkenyon said:
Yep, have to mess around with BIOS a bit, such as setting the primary boot disk to the optical drive and setting your SATA ports to AHCI. You should really familiarize yourself with all the BIOS settings, and because of this, the best piece of advice for a new builder is to RTFM.

Cool okay. Besides buying a video card I wasn't sure if all these parts came with manuals. Good deal. Think I'll order today then.
 
VGChampion said:
Cool okay. Besides buying a video card I wasn't sure if all these parts came with manuals. Good deal. Think I'll order today then.
Can't remember, but if you're Mobo is ASUS, they make really oustanding manuals. They don't really leave a lot of room for misunderstanding.
 
Red Blaster said:
My GTX 570 is, for some reason, now idling at 50C instead of the usual 38-40. Any ideas why? My CPU temps are still fine (35-38).

Check MSI Afterburner and see if your GPU is downclocked or not. This happened to me last week. Turned out my GPU was staying at 832mhz when just using the computer instead of the usual downclock to 405mhz. Temps went from 48-50 idle back down to the normal 35-37 when I caught that.
 
Omiee said:
Hmm fuck, i bought this motherboard because of the easy overclock option. Im not really experienced with overclocking etc. And its been performing pretty stable the last few months.

But i did go to the bios menu, and i set it to 100.0 instead of 103.0 where it was and saved and exited but when i went to the bios again, it was 103.0 again.

Question, if i get it to work on 100.0 will this mean my overclock speed will be lower as well of my cpu?

There is a setting that causes the bclk to make slight adjustments automatically (usually in the tenth of a mhz though, not 3 full) called something like spread spectrum. It's there mostly for interference issues if you have multiple machines in the same room all on the same clock. Feel free to turn that off in the BIOS and it might put you back to 100.
 
For the last 2+ years I've an issue with DVI scaling on my card, maybe someone know here what's the deal with it. It's an ATI 4670 connected to a 1080p monitor(LG W2243T). When I use the DVI output and try to run it at a lower resolution(to get better framerates) the screen looks all fucked up, it's broken with weird lines all over and looks as it if stretches way beyond the boundaries of the monitor. The monitor doesn't display the resolution I've chosen correctly either(example, I set a game to 720p but the monitor says its 1280x1024 or something) No issues at all with VGA though. I've used this screen with a PS3(with a DVI-HDMI cable) and had no issues with games that run at 720p. Messing with CCC doesn't really help, unless I feel like playing on a small window surrounded by black space. :P It's not that I need to use digital, I don't, but it's something that's always bothered me.
 
TheExodu5 said:
Most likely a dead SATA controller. Do you have a first run Sandy Bridge motherboard? The SATA2 ports on mine died.
I'm using an AMD CPU so I have the ASUS M4A87TD mobo. I just seems to have bad luck with building computers. I only had that board for less than three months when I upgraded from my old mobo which is working fine in my brother's computer. I only seem to run into trouble when building my computer, but everything goes smoothly when I help others build theirs. This is really frustrating.
 
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