"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Yes, because the RAM isn't operating in dual channel mode. It probably won't make a night and day difference, but it should be a little faster.Chinner said:
Corsair says the coolers should use intake fans and not exhaust, that way they get cool air from outside the case and not warm air from inside it. I've seen that debated, if you have your airflow set up for it you could probably get the same performance with exhaust, but in general I'd say Corsair is right. Most people aren't going to put much effort into their airflow, they'll just take what they get or maybe throw a front fan or two in.sn1pes said:
Not sure how to describe orientation. The side of the fan where the blades are concave is the side where the air will come out. I guess that makes sense. And I think most fans have the visible wires on the exhaust side and not the intake side, but I don't know if that's something to go by.
iSurvivedTheOutage
Member
Even my my $35 dollar Gamma has good airflow because of the cable management
The 570 Idles at 38C and never goes above 48C under load.
I think thats pretty damn impressive hearing how folks are going up in the 70s with reference cards.
The 570 Idles at 38C and never goes above 48C under load.
I think thats pretty damn impressive hearing how folks are going up in the 70s with reference cards.
SublimeO12
Neo Member
where do you guys feel the sweet spot is for price vs performance on the nVidia cards? I can't decide between the gtx 560 Ti and the 570. The 580 looks to be priced considerably higher for a smaller performance gain, so I think that's too much. Is the extra roughly $100 worth it for the 570?
Those shaped things are call heat spreader. Generally, more surface area leads to faster heat being dissipated. Thus, those ram should run cooler and be able to run at higher speeds. If you are running at high speeds or overclocking, it doesn't really make much of a difference.jett said:
The heatsinks, which don't really do anything. It's a holdover from the days of DDR2 when it ran really hot. Unless there is actual copper on the RAM (such as the Patriot Viper), then it really isn't doing anything.jett said:
Also, Sandybridge OC'ing is really different from the old days. Before, you had to OC your Bus as well as the multiplier, you had to have really nice RAM to be able to stand the big Bus bump, as that increases the speed of your ram. Hell, on my AMD 975, I'm running 1.65-.67 volts on my RAM to hold my 4.2 OC. So, that need for quality RAM doesn't really exist with Sandybridge.
iamvin22
Industry Verified
Just got the green light and about to slap down $1200. Whats cpu and gpu should i go for? Will be primary gaming machine. Thanks GAF <3 u
Also i really want to go 12-16GB ram does this deal sound good?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233143
Also i really want to go 12-16GB ram does this deal sound good?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233143
With Sandybridge it's actually cakewalk. Increase multiplier, set BUS to 100, increase voltage. Test, scale back voltage slowly until you get instability. Then, put it back up to the previous stable point. DONE.ACE 1991 said:
You can do it man, feel free to ask any questions if you have any.
Check out the OP, it'll answer your questions. You don't need that much RAM unless you're running a ton of virtual machines.iamvin22 said:
Corky said:
It's reusable. If you get into a habit of formatting and reinstalling, Windows Activation might pester you to call the automated system to validate (takes 5-10 minutes).
As long as your copy is only installed on 1 (or however many your license allows) machine at a time, you're fine.
On second thought, which type of monitor should I be looking at for gaming? I hear IPS panels have slow response time, but my TN panel has horrible black levels. Would a VA monitor be a good fit? I want something to game on, and have a 20" TN panel as a second monitor.
sn1pes said:
good to hear. I'm trying to rectify the biggest mistake I made going from my 2010 rig to my 2011 rig : Not buying an SSD again. I was on a cutthroat budget so I settled with an F3 HDD, it was quite a lot slower than my vertex 2 E >_<.
edit : btw, it was a good idea to leave my w7 install on my mechanical harddrive alone right? I.e good to have a backup OS if somehow my potential SSD dies? Or will they conflict somehow?
Also which would be the best OS drive?
Corsair SSD Force Series GT 90GB
Crucial m4 SSD 2,5" 128GB
The crucial costs slightly more.
brain_stew
Member
Mutagenic said:
Pixel response isn't really much of a bottleneck with LCD screens these days, 120hz monitors are the only sets that are going to give noticeably better motion resolution.
VA panels have the best black levels and IPS panels generally have the best colour reproduction, avoid TN panels like the plague. If you can accommodate it, buying a cheap 26"-32" 1080p HDTV with 1:1 pixel mapping and low levels of input lag is what I'd tend to recommend for something that's primarily for gaming.
When I get heavily involved in a game, I hook my computer up to my Kuro 50". But I wanted a 20" to match my current monitor for my desk. Does Fry's even carry a good model to purchase? I see on their website they differentiate between LCD and LED. I'm guessing LED is the new hotness.brain_stew said:
Something like this any good? http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Dell+-+23%22+Widescreen+Flat-Panel+LED+Monitor/1375082.p?id=1218254504494&skuId=1375082
In most cases, LED is simply a light source. Don't be mislead by all the marketing which makes it seem like a revolutionary display tech. Seems a number of companies are trying to align LED as a light source, with the increasing popularity of OLED displays.Mutagenic said:
Local-dimming LED models continue to improve, though they still have their share of issues. Edge-lit LED, which you'll find in the majority of LED-based monitors and TVs, has even more problems. Not every model using it is particularly problematic, but, in part because it's cheaper, and used most often on less expensive displays, you come across issues like light bleed.
If you can, see if Fry's, or any other b&m, will allow you to view the display you're interested in in different settings (not environmental). Some stores will even allow you to use your own source material to do some testing.
That's a TN. Seems to be one of the more popular models in that price range. Just take a look at one in person and see if the reservations that people have with TNs and low end LED applications would also bother you.Mutagenic said:
Thanks, I probably would notice. Can you or someone else recommend a specific model number of a good monitor (any type) in the 20"-23" range?·feist· said:
Also, sorry but one more quick question: Best PC speaker setup to get around $300? I was looking at the Bose Companion 5's ($400), Klipsch ProMedia 2.1, Audioengine 2, Logitech z2300...
MidgarBlowedUp
Member
Dell's U2311 is one of the better choices. There's also supposed to be a newer 2312, like the LED-backed 2412M. The 2311, and LG IPS231P-BN are two of the least expensive 23" IPS monitors you'll find. Depending on your budget, preferences, and when you're looking to buy, LG has a new IPS model coming up in the E91/E2391VR.Mutagenic said:
LG E2391VR, world's slimmest monitor, at IFA 2011
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hk8TnSmKJ2k
http://lcd.zol.com.cn/239/2397350.html
http://thisismynext.com/2011/09/02/lg-e2391vr-worlds-slimmest-monitor-pictures-video-specs-ifa-2011/
http://www.lgnewsroom.com/newsroom/...oduct_code=39&product_type=39&post_index=1360
If it's anything like the larger Samsung SyncMaster SA950 27", I dunno. I've heard some good things about the 27", and it looks nice, but, well... It's obviously nice as a gaming focused monitor. Between the two, though, I'd skip out on the 23" model's tuner, and get the 27" since they're not that far apart in pricing.mkenyon said:
Keeping my eye on the Samsung SyncMaster SA850 27". Matte, and it's the first consumer monitor using this panel type.
Freyjadour
Member
Hm, Heaven 2.5 opens up in a windowed widescreen black frame that does nothing in particular. I have no idea what's going on. Tried reinstalling, no difference.
Okay I'm in desperate need of help. I for the life of me could not figure out what was wrong with my computer, turns out I had the power cables for the CPU backwards...yeah, I know. Anyways, took it to a repair shop and they "fixed" it for me, with ample well-deserved jokes at my expense. Got into the BIOS no problem in their shop (although without disc drive/HDD) and everything was hunky dorey.
Came home to install windows, hooked up the dvd burner and hard drive, plugged monitor, keyboard, mouse in, boot it up. Boots up, but as the delightful MSI screen comes up on my monitor, I hear 2 short beeps and a long. According to the interwebs that means VRAM has failed? ...but I haven't changed anything except the drives since I got it back to my place. Halp?
Came home to install windows, hooked up the dvd burner and hard drive, plugged monitor, keyboard, mouse in, boot it up. Boots up, but as the delightful MSI screen comes up on my monitor, I hear 2 short beeps and a long. According to the interwebs that means VRAM has failed? ...but I haven't changed anything except the drives since I got it back to my place. Halp?
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
When would you guys say is the best time to buy new PC parts? Black Friday?
childplease
Banned
DennisK4 said:
Single 6950 not overclocked that is now dead and on its way to msi for repair or hopefully replacement.
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