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[mclaren777]

I won the Corsair driving competition at PAX this year and they gave me tons of awesome stuff. In fact, it was much more than I needed and far more than I deserved.

I recently built a new computer, which means I'm still four years away from my typical upgrade cycle (more RAM, new GPU, new OS) so I wanted to offer these items to the GAF community at a reduced price.

Please send me a PM if you're interested, though I'm unlikely to be flexible on the asking prices unless you make a really compelling argument.

http://www.corsair.com/products/

Pictures from the event...

 

[chaosblade]

I won the Corsair driving competition at PAX this year and they gave me tons of awesome stuff. In fact, it was much more than I needed and far more than I deserved.

I recently built a new computer, which means I'm still four years away from my typical upgrade cycle (more RAM, new GPU, new OS) so I wanted to offer these items to the GAF community at a reduced price.

Please send me a PM if you're interested, though I'm unlikely to be flexible on the asking prices unless you make a really compelling argument.

http://www.corsair.com/products/

Pictures from the event...

Loving the GAF shirt! I'm seriously THIS close to biting on that H100.

 

[commish]

Okay gents, I'm looking to buy a PC, and as I've stated before, I no longer have the desire to build my own. I'm looking to buy from Cyberpower, and this is what I currently have. I have no desire to OC anything, and this is intended mostly for gaming. I'll be using 2 monitors, but only care to use 1 for gaming. Cost of this is $1,538.00 with shipping/tax included. Ordering the parts from newegg seems to be about $1350, so generally a $200 premium. Wha do you guys think?

•CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-2500K 3.30 GHz 6M Intel Smart Cache LGA1155 (All Venom OC Certified)
•CAS: NZXT H2 Classic Silent Mid-Tower Gaming Case
•Coolling: CORSAIR Hydro Series H60
•HDD: 1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 32MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Single Hard Drive)
•MB_SRT: 60 GB OCZ Agility 3 SATA III 6.0G/s Gaming MLC Solid State Disk (SRT)
•MEMORY: 8GB (2GBx4) DDR3/1600MHz Dual Channel Memory Module (Corsair or Major Brand)
•MOTHERBOARD: [CrossFireX/SLI] Asus P8Z68-V Intel Z68 Chipset DDR3 ATX Mainboard w/ BT GO! LucidLogix Virtu and Intel Smart Response Technology & 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, USB3.0, 2x SATA-III RAID, 3 PCIe Gen2, 2 PCIe X1 & 2 PCI (All Venom OC Certified) [+96]
•SOUND: * Asus Xonar DG 5.1 Channels PCI Xonar DG Sound Card [+29]
•VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 570 1.2GB 16X PCIe Video Card [+246] (Major Brand Powered by NVIDIA)
•POWERSUPPLY: * 750 Watts - Corsair CMPSU-750TXV2 80 Plus Power Supply

 

[Mr Nightman]

I won the Corsair driving competition at PAX this year and they gave me tons of awesome stuff. In fact, it was much more than I needed and far more than I deserved.

I recently built a new computer, which means I'm still four years away from my typical upgrade cycle (more RAM, new GPU, new OS) so I wanted to offer these items to the GAF community at a reduced price.

Please send me a PM if you're interested, though I'm unlikely to be flexible on the asking prices unless you make a really compelling argument.

http://www.corsair.com/products/

Aah, I want that 600T, but I also need to drop money on engine problems, soo close to biting for that price lol

 

[otake]

Just upgraded from a radeon hd 4870 to gtx 460 oc. Significant upgrade? I got the 1 gb version. I sually game at 1920x1200 or 1680x1050. My most played game is TF2, followed by crysis.

 

[knitoe]

Okay gents, I'm looking to buy a PC, and as I've stated before, I no longer have the desire to build my own. I'm looking to buy from Cyberpower, and this is what I currently have. I have no desire to OC anything, and this is intended mostly for gaming. I'll be using 2 monitors, but only care to use 1 for gaming. Cost of this is $1,538.00 with shipping/tax included. Ordering the parts from newegg seems to be about $1350, so generally a $200 premium. Wha do you guys think?

Why not. A 1GHz overclock can make a big difference and it's relatively easy with a K cpu on sandy bridge MB.

 

[mclaren777]

Why not?

Some of us just don't want to overclock. I'm hoping to get eight years out of my 2600K so I want to keep it as thermally stable as possible.

 

[Kalnos]

Got a U2311 for dual-IPS goodness.

 

[chaosblade]

Some of us just don't want to overclock. I'm hoping to get eight years out of my 2600K so I want to keep it as thermally stable as possible.

Undervolting? Not sure how much headroom those would have though.

 

[mclaren777]

Undervolting? Not sure how much headroom those would have though.

It runs at 1.6Ghz most of the time anyway so I'm feeling pretty good about my odds.

 

[Stalfos]

Do you have anything little detail that annoys you? Such as the shift button being to small, no notification that caps lock is on, etc?

Also, I don't know what you mean by "chiclet". Does it make a lot of noise, or does it feel like you are pushing down on something squishy? I'd like a little bit of noise and also have that feeling of "oh yea, I just pressed that key and it worked" rather than "I'm pushing down on something soft and don't know how far i have to push it down in order for it to work."

I've only had it for about a week now so there hasn't been anything that has annoyed me too much. I could see the caps lock thing being somewhat annoying but it hasn't been an issue for me yet.

By chiclet keys I mean that they are the flat low profile type. Kind of like what a lot of laptops and netbooks use these days. I don't think the keyboard feels squishy by any means. I like the feel of typing on it. The keyboard makes some noise but overall I feel its pretty quite compared to classic style mechanical keyboards. If you are unsure I would suggest trying to find an electronics store that has it on display so you can feel for yourself before you buy. I first saw the keyboard at Fry's and tried it out there.

 

[Hazaro]

Okay gents, I'm looking to buy a PC, and as I've stated before, I no longer have the desire to build my own. I'm looking to buy from Cyberpower, and this is what I currently have. I have no desire to OC anything, and this is intended mostly for gaming. I'll be using 2 monitors, but only care to use 1 for gaming. Cost of this is $1,538.00 with shipping/tax included. Ordering the parts from newegg seems to be about $1350, so generally a $200 premium. Wha do you guys think?

•CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-2500K 3.30 GHz 6M Intel Smart Cache LGA1155 (All Venom OC Certified)
•CAS: NZXT H2 Classic Silent Mid-Tower Gaming Case
•Coolling: CORSAIR Hydro Series H60
•HDD: 1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 32MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Single Hard Drive)
•MB_SRT: 60 GB OCZ Agility 3 SATA III 6.0G/s Gaming MLC Solid State Disk (SRT)
•MEMORY: 8GB (2GBx4) DDR3/1600MHz Dual Channel Memory Module (Corsair or Major Brand)
•MOTHERBOARD: [CrossFireX/SLI] Asus P8Z68-V Intel Z68 Chipset DDR3 ATX Mainboard w/ BT GO! LucidLogix Virtu and Intel Smart Response Technology & 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, USB3.0, 2x SATA-III RAID, 3 PCIe Gen2, 2 PCIe X1 & 2 PCI (All Venom OC Certified) [+96]
•SOUND: * Asus Xonar DG 5.1 Channels PCI Xonar DG Sound Card [+29]
•VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 570 1.2GB 16X PCIe Video Card [+246] (Major Brand Powered by NVIDIA)
•POWERSUPPLY: * 750 Watts - Corsair CMPSU-750TXV2 80 Plus Power Supply

Everything in that parts list sounds good except the Agility 3. Can you sub that out for anything? Intel/M4 SSD?

It runs at 1.6Ghz most of the time anyway so I'm feeling pretty good about my odds.

And if you use offset voltage + Turbo to overclock it will stay at 1.0V at idle and only go up to say... 4.2Ghz at load at the same Voltage
Although I can understand choosing not to do that.

Nice swag from the event. Cool to see your driving skills payoff haha!

 

[commish]

Why not. A 1GHz overclock can make a big difference and it's relatively easy with a K cpu on sandy bridge MB.

Yeah I know, and in the past, I would OC like a champ. When I say that I have no desire to OC, I just mean that I'm not looking to buy a cheaper card, for example, and OC it to the speed of the 570 I have now, if that makes sense.

Everything in that parts list sounds good except the Agility 3. Can you sub that out for anything? Intel/M4 SSD?

Intel 320 40GB is an option. Maybe I should make the switch? I know there are some reliability issues with some newer SSDs, but is it as big an issue if the SSD is just used for SRT?

 

[Hazaro]

Yeah I know, and in the past, I would OC like a champ. When I say that I have no desire to OC, I just mean that I'm not looking to buy a cheaper card, for example, and OC it to the speed of the 570 I have now, if that makes sense.



Intel 320 40GB is an option. Maybe I should make the switch? I know there are some reliability issues with some newer SSDs, but is it as big an issue if the SSD is just used for SRT?

Is there no 310 or SLC option? I'd go with the 320.

 

[RS4-]

Regarding a triple monitor setup:

My friend wants a P8Z68 for the onboard video (his gigabyte board is screwed), and he currently has a 560ti. Can he run the two displays on the GPU + one on the mobo?

He doesn't game either. Only other suggestion that I would have told him was to get his mobo RMA'd then buy a cheap video card but he doesn't want to wait for the replacement board.

 

[Tonner Cyn]

Okay gents, I'm looking to buy a PC, and as I've stated before, I no longer have the desire to build my own. I'm looking to buy from Cyberpower, and this is what I currently have. I have no desire to OC anything, and this is intended mostly for gaming. I'll be using 2 monitors, but only care to use 1 for gaming. Cost of this is $1,538.00 with shipping/tax included. Ordering the parts from newegg seems to be about $1350, so generally a $200 premium. Wha do you guys think?

•CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-2500K 3.30 GHz 6M Intel Smart Cache LGA1155 (All Venom OC Certified)
•CAS: NZXT H2 Classic Silent Mid-Tower Gaming Case
•Coolling: CORSAIR Hydro Series H60
•HDD: 1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 32MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Single Hard Drive)
•MB_SRT: 60 GB OCZ Agility 3 SATA III 6.0G/s Gaming MLC Solid State Disk (SRT)
•MEMORY: 8GB (2GBx4) DDR3/1600MHz Dual Channel Memory Module (Corsair or Major Brand)
•MOTHERBOARD: [CrossFireX/SLI] Asus P8Z68-V Intel Z68 Chipset DDR3 ATX Mainboard w/ BT GO! LucidLogix Virtu and Intel Smart Response Technology & 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, USB3.0, 2x SATA-III RAID, 3 PCIe Gen2, 2 PCIe X1 & 2 PCI (All Venom OC Certified) [+96]
•SOUND: * Asus Xonar DG 5.1 Channels PCI Xonar DG Sound Card [+29]
•VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 570 1.2GB 16X PCIe Video Card [+246] (Major Brand Powered by NVIDIA)
•POWERSUPPLY: * 750 Watts - Corsair CMPSU-750TXV2 80 Plus Power Supply

I just picked up my computer from Cyberpower 30 minutes ago. I've bought one from them before and my brother has bought two, so from our experience you should be happy. Of course, part of that is putting the right parts together first. I'll share what I learned over the past couple of weeks while I got my order figured out.
- You could save a few bucks by going with a SATA-II hdd. It isn't a huge savings but...
- Unfortunately, it sounds like a good idea to pony up for the Kingston HyperX or Corsair Dominator branded RAM. Supposedly going with the default stuff is hit and miss. You could get lucky but for a little more I'd rather not worry about it.
- Oh, and you might want to go with two RAM chips instead of 4 - it gives you room to expand down the road if needed.
- I was told that SRT was not really the way to go. Instead, people were telling me to get a good ssd as your boot drive. The best ones they have are the Intel (I got an 80 gig 320) though they have added a few more options since I placed my order. Nothing I would have chosen to replace the Intel but I think they are decent options.
- People recommended the GigaByte GA-Z68A-D3H-B3 mobo but I don't know much about these items. Do be aware that the one you seleced does not support SLI so if you ever wanted to add a second gpu you wouldn't be able to. EDIT - nevermind that last comment, I need to learn to read

 

[Gvaz]

Some of us just don't want to overclock. I'm hoping to get eight years out of my 2600K so I want to keep it as thermally stable as possible.

 

[commish]

I just picked up my computer from Cyberpower 30 minutes ago. I've bought one from them before and my brother has bought two, so from our experience you should be happy. Of course, part of that is putting the right parts together first. I'll share what I learned over the past couple of weeks while I got my order figured out.
- You could save a few bucks by going with a SATA-II hdd. It isn't a huge savings but...
- Unfortunately, it sounds like a good idea to pony up for the Kingston HyperX or Corsair Dominator branded RAM. Supposedly going with the default stuff is hit and miss. You could get lucky but for a little more I'd rather not worry about it.
- Oh, and you might want to go with two RAM chips instead of 4 - it gives you room to expand down the road if needed.
- I was told that SRT was not really the way to go. Instead, people were telling me to get a good ssd as your boot drive. The best ones they have are the Intel (I got an 80 gig 320) though they have added a few more options since I placed my order. Nothing I would have chosen to replace the Intel but I think they are decent options.
- People recommended the GigaByte GA-Z68A-D3H-B3 mobo but I don't know much about these items. Do be aware that the one you seleced does not support SLI so if you ever wanted to add a second gpu you wouldn't be able to. EDIT - nevermind that last comment, I need to learn to read

Why isn't the SRT the way to go? I've been reading up on it and the comments seem almost always positive. And thanks for the comments!

Hazaro, no 310 or SLC, unfortunately.

 

[MANGOD]

The latest battlefield trailer has put me over the edge! I am looking to join up with you elite folks and have put together something within my budget and was wondering if it was all good. The machine will be used for gaming, media and occasionally for audio work. My monitor is a samsung 1080p tv or if I am feeling saucy my soon to be panasonic ptae7000

- Case: Coolermaster CM 690 II Dominator Advanced - Black
- Power Supply: OCZ ZS 750w PSU
- CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K 3.30GHz Overclocked to 4.0GHz Sandybridge CPU
- Motherboard: Intel Z68 (Socket 1155) DDR3 Motherboard ** B3 REVISION **
- Cooler: OcUK H2 Flo Cooler
- RAM: 8GB DDR3 1600MHz Dual Channel Kit
- Hard Drive: 2 x 1TB
- Graphics Card: GTX 570
- Optical Drive: Samsung bluray

 

[Tonner Cyn]

Why isn't the SRT the way to go? I've been reading up on it and the comments seem almost always positive. And thanks for the comments!

Hazaro, no 310 or SLC, unfortunately.

I went looking for some of the info I read but couldn't find it :-/. There was one post where a guy said for a gaming rig SRT wasn't necessary but there was no detail. I'll keep looking...

 

[Dennis]

I won the Corsair driving competition at PAX this year

Congratulations.

 

[Bruiserk]

I've only had it for about a week now so there hasn't been anything that has annoyed me too much. I could see the caps lock thing being somewhat annoying but it hasn't been an issue for me yet.

By chiclet keys I mean that they are the flat low profile type. Kind of like what a lot of laptops and netbooks use these days. I don't think the keyboard feels squishy by any means. I like the feel of typing on it. The keyboard makes some noise but overall I feel its pretty quite compared to classic style mechanical keyboards. If you are unsure I would suggest trying to find an electronics store that has it on display so you can feel for yourself before you buy. I first saw the keyboard at Fry's and tried it out there.

I understand what you mean by the keys. I just needed a bit more clarification. It sounds like an awesome keyboard, but I can see the caps lock/num lock notifications getting annoying if it doesn't have them. I'll have to think about it.

 

[Diomedes]

http://www.engadget.com/2011/09/16/corsair-vengeance-gaming-keyboards-mice-and-headsets-hands-on/

Anyone else see this yet? Thoughts? Exciting to see red switches making their way over here. For $100 though I would probably buy that k60.

 

[Flame Lord]

After planning for months I think I'm finally done picking parts.

CPU: Intel i5-2500K
Case: Corsair Graphite Series 600T
Coolling: Hyper 212
HDD: SAMSUNG EcoGreen F4 HD204UI 2TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
SSD: Crucial M4 128GB
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB)
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO
Sound card: Asus Xonar DG
GPU: MSI N580GTX Lightning GeForce GTX 580
Power Supply: CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX750
Monitor: ASUS VS248H-P Black 24"

The only thing I'm still debating on is the 580. I have the money for ti but I'm not really sure if I should get it now, or get something cheaper and buy one of the new Nvidia cards next year. Any opinions?

 

[Tallshortman]

Regarding a triple monitor setup:

My friend wants a P8Z68 for the onboard video (his gigabyte board is screwed), and he currently has a 560ti. Can he run the two displays on the GPU + one on the mobo?

He doesn't game either. Only other suggestion that I would have told him was to get his mobo RMA'd then buy a cheap video card but he doesn't want to wait for the replacement board.

Nope, he'll need to either get another nvidia card for the 3rd monitor or get an AMD card which have single card support for 3 displays.

 

[Giriath_89]

Is there no 310 or SLC option? I'd go with the 320.

What's your opinion on the Corsair Force GT series Hazaro? I only ever see Intel 310/510 or Crucial M4 be recommended here.

 

[Tallshortman]

Just upgraded from a radeon hd 4870 to gtx 460 oc. Significant upgrade? I got the 1 gb version. I sually game at 1920x1200 or 1680x1050. My most played game is TF2, followed by crysis.

No, you will notice a minimal difference in performance because the 460 is not much more powerful than the 4870 on average.

 

[Giriath_89]

After planning for months I think I'm finally done picking parts.

The only thing I'm still debating on is the 580. I have the money for ti but I'm not really sure if I should get it now, or get something cheaper and buy one of the new Nvidia cards next year. Any opinions?

If you're going for a sound card and have a good pair of cans you might want to splurge on a ASUS Xonar Essence STX.

 

[Ridankulous]

Just make a bootable USB drive

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/31541-windows-7-usb-dvd-download-tool.html

thanks a lot!

but i've run into another problem. I ran the windows 7 flash drive tool, but when it finishes it says it copied all the files except it was unable to run bootsect to make my drive bootable.

any ideas what this means?

edit: does it have anything to do with trying to create a 64 bit bootable drive on a 32 bit operating system?

edit 2: I think i've figured it out. I'm going to get the 32 bit version and move the bootsect.exe into the same folder as the windows boot tool

at least that's what i've gotten so far from google

 

[Giriath_89]

By the way, for anyone looking to buy a mouse I really recommend the SteelSeries XAI.

 

[Clydefrog]

I won the Corsair driving competition at PAX this year and they gave me tons of awesome stuff. In fact, it was much more than I needed and far more than I deserved.

I recently built a new computer, which means I'm still four years away from my typical upgrade cycle (more RAM, new GPU, new OS) so I wanted to offer these items to the GAF community at a reduced price.

Please send me a PM if you're interested, though I'm unlikely to be flexible on the asking prices unless you make a really compelling argument.

Congrats, dude! I don't need anything seeing as how I just built my new rig two weeks ago (with a Corsair case and PSU!) But I do appreciate the offer; great prices!

 

[mclaren777]

I comfortably made it eight years on a 2.4GHz P4 Northwood without OCing it.

 

[gokieks]

Nope, he'll need to either get another nvidia card for the 3rd monitor or get an AMD card which have single card support for 3 displays.

Um, no. Using a Z68 board (that has video outputs, not all of them do), you absolutely can run two monitors off a discrete GPU and then another one off the integrated.

 

[Cystm]

Should I go for a GeForce GTX 570 HD for a rather low $230.00?

Or should I wait until the 7xxx cards are unleashed in a few months? Will they likely drive down the prices of the gtx 500 cards?

This will be a one shot deal for me, once I get one or the other I won't be able to upgrade for a long time.

 

[gokieks]

I comfortably made it eight years on a 2.4GHz P4 Northwood without OCing it.

As your only computer? I also had one (though my was OCed to 3.0GHz as almost all of them easily could be), and I don't know how you could seriously use it and not be frustrated as hell by how slow it is by, say, 2007 or 2008.

 

[BasicMath]

Please send me a PM if you're interested, though I'm unlikely to be flexible on the asking prices unless you make a really compelling argument.

PM sent.
I really hope that 600T is the white version of it.

 

[mclaren777]

As your only computer? I also had one (though my was OCed to 3.0GHz as almost all of them easily could be), and I don't know how you could seriously use it and not be frustrated as hell by how slow it is by, say, 2007 or 2008.

My old computer worked great. It was a Dell Dimension 4550 that I custom ordered back in early 2003. I added some new components along the way (7600GT, new HDD, more RAM) and it handled everything I threw at it (racing sims, video production, 3ds Max, Crysis, etc).

In fact, I still have that thing sitting next to my current 2600K machine.

 

[knitoe]

I comfortably made it eight years on a 2.4GHz P4 Northwood without OCing it.

I had one that was overclock to 3.2GHz ~stock voltage for 7 years and was still running fine until I trashed it. After 4 years, it was slow for gaming and became a browser / word computer.

I am pretty sure my 2600K@4.5GHz on 1.27V would last just as long, and during that time, I will be enjoying the added sweet speed.

 

[iSurvivedTheOutage]

I had one that was overclock to 3.2GHz ~stock voltage for 7 years and was still running fine until I trashed it. After 4 years, it was slow for gaming and became a browser / word computer.

I am pretty sure my 2600K@4.5GHz on 1.27V would last just as long, and during that time, I will be enjoying the added sweet speed.

Oh that extra boost is sweet indeed.

 

[Desaan]

The only thing I'm still debating on is the 580. I have the money for ti but I'm not really sure if I should get it now, or get something cheaper and buy one of the new Nvidia cards next year. Any opinions?

Single or dual 6970's and wait for the next line of cards mid next year.

 

[elrechazado]

I comfortably made it eight years on a 2.4GHz P4 Northwood without OCing it.

My e6320 has made it 5+ years now overclocked quite a bit.

 

[abuC]

I would. Yes, the majority if not all games will not need more that 1.5 today, but that is today. I know that Crysis 2 with the Hi-Res Pack and DX11 will use more that 1.5, I beleive it will use up to 1.7 or so, but it also scales if you dont have more that 1.5. But that is again for games that our today. Who knows what the games coming out later this year will do and you can be one of those that likes to put an insane amount of AA in games and that also eats up some ram.

But if you can get a 3gb card for the price and even lower than a 1.5gb...I guess I need to ask....What are you waiting for?

I went to buy them today, but the microcenter didn't have them in stock, I checked their website and it said they had 2

 

[Giriath_89]

Huh. I know people usually say cables don't make a bit of difference (and with HDMI that's certainly true) but apparently that's not true with all cables or all signals.

I bought a pair of expensive silver cables for my audio setup a long time ago and just plugged in the stock cables again after about half a year because of a loose connection on the silver cable, and the difference is enormous.

I'm not such an audiophile that I know the correct terms to describe the difference, but the stock (copper) cables provide a more booming and deep sound where some, probably high sounds, are much less clear than on the silver cables.

It may be that the stock cables provide a more accurate sound, and I sort of prefer them to the silver cables, but the change will take some getting used to.

edit: yep, definitely prefer stock. damn custom built expensive shit.

 

[Gvaz]

My p4 lasted me from 2004 to 2006 before i replaced it with something more powerful because it performed a lot worse than later athlon 64s that came out.

Also if I can't play a game on Highest I either upgrade my computer to match or I don't play the game until I can.

 

[InertiaXr]

Does anybody know how to get a wireless xbox 360 controller to sync to the wireless receiver thing? I had it working once but since then I had to unplug and move my computer and when I plugged it back up the receiver no longer will sync up with the controller.

 

[Conceptor]

Hey PC-GAF, couple of questions;

I've been price watching parts over the last few months and in the process picked up a 2500k processor for a pretty good price. I'm currently on the lookout for a good Mobo/RAM combo, and I've chosem out a few deals on NCIX.ca, but I'm not really sure which is the better one so I'd love to get some advice/insight. I'm hoping to have my rig upgraded by the time the BF3 beta rolls around.

I plan on overclocking, will be reusing my 212+, and have a CM 690 Adv II case with a TX750 PSU. I'm mainly looking for something around $100-150, but don't mind stretching it a little if it means I can get some decent performance/life gains out of it. I'm a student with tuitions to pay off, so I don't have the means to go all out or anything .

Combo 1:
Gigabyte P67X-UD3-B3 ATX LGA1155 P67 DDR3 3PCI-E1 2PCI 2PCI-E16 CrossFireX SATA3 USB3 - $134.99
G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-10666CL9D-4GBXL 4GB 2X2GB DDR3-1333 CL-9-9-9-24 Memory - $25.10

Combo 2:
Gigabyte Z68X-UD3H-B3 ATX LGA1155 Z68 DDR3 1PCI-E16 3PCI-E1 2PCI HDMI SLI SATA3 USB3. - $159.99
Mushkin Enhanced Silverline Stiletto 8GB 2X4GB PC3-10666 DDR3-1333 9-9-9-24 Dual Channel Memory Kit - $40.96

so P67+4GB vs. Z68+8GB

The two I pulled up are from the quick bit of browsing I did between classes, so if you can find anything superior, I'm open to that too!

Thanks in advance and I really appreciate the help :>

 

[knitoe]

Does anybody know how to get a wireless xbox 360 controller to sync to the wireless receiver thing? I had it working once but since then I had to unplug and move my computer and when I plugged it back up the receiver no longer will sync up with the controller.

Did you try sync them again by pressing the button on the receiver and controller? Does the receiver light up green? If not, most likely the receiver fuse has blown. It seems to be a common problem. Mind did too. I just open it up, solder over the broken fuse and it's working again. Google for pics that show you want you need to do.

 

[InertiaXr]

Did you try sync them again by pressing the button on the receiver and controller? Does the receiver light up green? If not, most likely the receiver fuse has blown. It seems to be a common problem. Mind did too. I just open it up, solder over the broken fuse and it's working again. Google for pics that show you want you need to do.

They both light up as they should, but they just can't seem to sync. I think they are seeing each other in some way, as if I just press and hold the button on the controller the ring of lights circles around over and over indefinitely, but as soon as I press the button on the receiver it stops and starts flashing the entire ring over and over. The controller is reacting to the receiver I'm sure of it, but it won't stop flashing and sync up in the 1st quadrant.

 

[knitoe]

They both light up as they should, but they just can't seem to sync. I think they are seeing each other in some way, as if I just press and hold the button on the controller the ring of lights circles around over and over indefinitely, but as soon as I press the button on the receiver it stops and starts flashing the entire ring over and over. The controller is reacting to the receiver I'm sure of it, but it won't stop flashing and sync up in the 1st quadrant.

Sounds like one of them is broken, probably receiver. Do you have another controller or X360 to test?

 

[InertiaXr]

Sounds like one of them is broken, probably receiver. Do you have another controller or X360 to test?

Nope, my 360 red ringed a while ago and I don't have another wireless 360 controller. You said I can solder or something inside the receiver? I changed USB ports in case that was the issue and Windows recognized it without any problem, but then tried to install the drivers I already have installed so of course it failed. The light still flashes just as it should when I press the button on it, so I'm not sure if it's actually broken or just having an issue syncing up in W7 which I know is a pretty big issue from my internet research I have done on this fucking thing.

I wanted to make sure I could get this working before I bought Trackmania 2, but looks like I won't be able to do that...