Mr Nightman
Banned
I would recommend a radeon hd 6950 honestly, its fairly close to the performance of the 560gtx tiTerproerg said:
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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$250. Also at current levels you are making $15 a month if you run dual 6950's while you sleep. So unless your electricity is free or you are speculating it's not a big deal.Terproerg said:
fan on right side = exhaust heat out case, louder, hotter card, cooler casecommish said:
fan in middle = exhaust all over, quieter, cooler card, hotter case
dual fan = same as above, but better
AR/BR whatever. Is warranty. 3 yr vs 5yr vs lifetime or something. Click details.
Dash Kappei
Not actually that important
Thanks for the reply!Chaosblade said:
·feist· said:
Actually I have had the case for a while now, built my htpc thanks to you guys' tips in last year's thread (especially with HAZARO's help). Then my cpu started overheating 'cause of problems with the stock fan on the i5 and after fixing it I also decided to buy a cooler. Buying the wrong cooler was due to the fact I read around the CM Hyper 212+ could fit in the Thermaltake DH101 but instead I found out myself that isn't true at all :-(
Out of what you posted (*much* appreciated!) I'm definitely leaning over LP since I don't wanna risk anymore fuck ups on my part and I'm too newb to consider WC modding with AIO. Considering I'd like to stay below 40 and I priorities a silent pc above all, which LP cooler should I go for between those you posted to do a *veeery* mild OC on my core i5 (from 2.67 to 3.2)? Sorry if I'm not able to do this research myself, but I'm really just going straight buying whatever you guys suggest
I just had the biggest scare ever.
Notice that crack in front of my mouse pad? My PC is under there. I have a HAF X, which basically has an open top since there are two big 200mm fan grills up there. What do you think happens when I spill a glass of water on my desk?
I was playing some Dark Souls, and then knocked over a glass of water. Suddenly, I hear my video card fan go into overdrive. I quickly yank the power from the PC as fast as I can. Both video cards were wet, as well as a little bit of the motherboard. I mopped it up and let it dry for a half hour. After I was positive everything was dry, I plugged everything back in and hoped for the rest.
Somehow, it's still fine. No damage done. I was damned lucky.
Notice that crack in front of my mouse pad? My PC is under there. I have a HAF X, which basically has an open top since there are two big 200mm fan grills up there. What do you think happens when I spill a glass of water on my desk?
I was playing some Dark Souls, and then knocked over a glass of water. Suddenly, I hear my video card fan go into overdrive. I quickly yank the power from the PC as fast as I can. Both video cards were wet, as well as a little bit of the motherboard. I mopped it up and let it dry for a half hour. After I was positive everything was dry, I plugged everything back in and hoped for the rest.
Somehow, it's still fine. No damage done. I was damned lucky.
TheExodu5 said:
My god man, if I did something like that I would let it dry for at least 24 hours, if not longer. My girlfriend dropped her phone AND iPod Touch in the toilet a few months ago and I told her to leave them off and drying for 3 days minimum, and now they are good as new.
iSurvivedTheOutage
Member
Smash88 said:
Die pleaz kthx
knitoe said:
I don't see the wisdom in spending more for a graphics card than you've spent for a monitor. If the 1080p display in question is a big screen TV, and you are sitting on top of it (which is actually what I'm doing right now) then I can kind of see the logic in it. A 6990 to run a single 1080p monitor (at the standard sizes of 20-27") seems like a waste though. It would definitely only be for people wanting to run some specific setting (like ubersampling in TW2, like you mentioned) and not just for anyone.
Two 6970's are a bit cheaper in any case. My advice would always be to buy a single 6970 first, and only upgrade to a second one if the performance wasn't to your liking. Maybe that's my low budget talking.
If money is no object...I guess I don't see the problem with spending a grand and a half on a 6990 and a 512gb SSD.
TheExodu5 said:
This was one factor in my decision to buy extension cables and put my PC in a closet. My desk has a cord hole that sits right above where the top exhaust fan on my case sat. I very nearly spilled a can of coke right into it.
Glad you didn't fry anything.
I'm putting together a 2500k system from the build list in the OP, and am struggling to find a well-priced motherboard here in New Zealand.
I am currently looking at:
ASRock Z68 PRO3, LGA 1155, Intel Z68, 4x DDR3 2133 (OC),PCIE, D-SUB, DVI-D, HDMI, SATAIII, 7.1 Ch, Gb LAN, USB3.0, ATX Model Z68-PRO3
which is the ASRock Z68 Pro3: http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=Z68 Pro3
and not the ASRock Z68 Professional Gen 3: http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=Fatal1ty Z68 Professional Gen3
which is listed in the $1000+ build list.
Can anyone advise whether the Pro 3 is a suitable replacement for the Professional Gen 3?
(I can get the ASRock Extreme4 P67 board, but have read that I should be getting Z68 rather than P67. Is this right?)
I am currently looking at:
ASRock Z68 PRO3, LGA 1155, Intel Z68, 4x DDR3 2133 (OC),PCIE, D-SUB, DVI-D, HDMI, SATAIII, 7.1 Ch, Gb LAN, USB3.0, ATX Model Z68-PRO3
which is the ASRock Z68 Pro3: http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=Z68 Pro3
and not the ASRock Z68 Professional Gen 3: http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=Fatal1ty Z68 Professional Gen3
which is listed in the $1000+ build list.
Can anyone advise whether the Pro 3 is a suitable replacement for the Professional Gen 3?
(I can get the ASRock Extreme4 P67 board, but have read that I should be getting Z68 rather than P67. Is this right?)
RumblingRosco
Member
phinious said:
I don't have a specific suggestion, but you have to be very careful doing this as the power supply that comes with the average Dell is not always up-to-par for a GPU replacement.
Alright so I tried out a bunch of CPU voltages by increasing in small intervals, but my computer always seems to restart or give BSOD errors when it is idle. I'm currently trying out 1.36 for the CPU voltage on an i5 2500k @4.5ghz in a Asus P8P67 Pro. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Should I enable PLL Overvoltage to auto or enabled because it was disabled?
Should I enable PLL Overvoltage to auto or enabled because it was disabled?
A 6990 is ~$700 vs 2x 6970 are ~$670. Not that much cheaper. Plus, it's 1 card and you can still quad CF them.LordCanti said:
And, Witcher 2 will not run at 1080p @ 60fps locked with max settings, uber disable, on just a 6970. Either, will BF3.
As for 512GB SSD, I agree. Not worth the cost. 60GB or 128GB good enough for OS and most used programs. Everything else should be thrown on a much cheaper HDD.
Just use offset which will lead to higher idle and load voltages. Disable other settings that only increase a certain % when under load, like Internal PLL, LLC, phase control and so on. For example, depending on the settings, you could be idle@0.950V and load@1.36V. While, with just offset only, idle@1.100V and load @1.36V.grkazan12 said:
Hey thanks for all the help everyone, sorry if I'm asking too much but its my first time doing this and I just want to make sure that I do this right and maybe learn a thing or two in the process. I'll defnitley try out some of the tips that you have given so far.knitoe said:
Anyone remember EKL's Alpenföhn K2 from when it was first shown many months ago? Well, it finally went on sale last week, and initial word looks promising. Seems they may have succeeded where Asus, Scythe and others have failed, in the upper echelon of air cooling.
http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php?...=175:alpenfoehn-k2&catid=53&Itemid=44&lang=en
http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=17463&imgID=0
The Alpenföhn K2 is nearly the same as its twin, the Deepcool Assassin, with their fans being the main difference between the two.
Nothing definitive yet on the K2/Assassin, so as it currently stands, the high end air cooling hierarchy looks something like this:
Performance: Phanteks PH-TC14PE ≥ Thermalright Silver Arrow > Noctua NH-D14
Quiet: Thermalright Silver Arrow > Noctua NH-D14 ≥ Phanteks PH-TC14PE
Price: (low to high) Thermalright Silver Arrow > Noctua NH-D14 > Phanteks PH-TC14PE
Weight: (low to high) Thermalright Silver Arrow > Noctua NH-D14 > Phanteks PH-TC14PE
Threw in the weight portion for the "dual towers be breaking my mobos" crowd. No Prolimatech Genesis because it doesn't come with fans (though it's very impressive for quiet, ~300-900rpm, or passive cooling, even beating the Silver Arrow and NH-D14). No Prolimatech Armageddon, as it doesn't seem particularly impressive. No Thermalright Archon due to inconclusive data, and fitment issues. The Megahalems line, and TRUE/VenX line are obviously high up there, if not quite the best. No Thermaltake Frio/Frio OCK-like coolers because they verge on Antec 920/Corsair H70/H80/H100 levels of noise, and get edged out in performance while costing about the same as a Silver Arrow.
http://www.alpenfoehn.de/index.php?...=175:alpenfoehn-k2&catid=53&Itemid=44&lang=en
http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=17463&imgID=0
The Alpenföhn K2 is nearly the same as its twin, the Deepcool Assassin, with their fans being the main difference between the two.
Nothing definitive yet on the K2/Assassin, so as it currently stands, the high end air cooling hierarchy looks something like this:
Performance: Phanteks PH-TC14PE ≥ Thermalright Silver Arrow > Noctua NH-D14
Quiet: Thermalright Silver Arrow > Noctua NH-D14 ≥ Phanteks PH-TC14PE
Price: (low to high) Thermalright Silver Arrow > Noctua NH-D14 > Phanteks PH-TC14PE
Weight: (low to high) Thermalright Silver Arrow > Noctua NH-D14 > Phanteks PH-TC14PE
Threw in the weight portion for the "dual towers be breaking my mobos" crowd. No Prolimatech Genesis because it doesn't come with fans (though it's very impressive for quiet, ~300-900rpm, or passive cooling, even beating the Silver Arrow and NH-D14). No Prolimatech Armageddon, as it doesn't seem particularly impressive. No Thermalright Archon due to inconclusive data, and fitment issues. The Megahalems line, and TRUE/VenX line are obviously high up there, if not quite the best. No Thermaltake Frio/Frio OCK-like coolers because they verge on Antec 920/Corsair H70/H80/H100 levels of noise, and get edged out in performance while costing about the same as a Silver Arrow.
The AIOs are very straightforward, actually, but I think both are above your price range. Space permitting, it looks like the Scythe Big Shuriken II, and Cooler Master GeminII S524 will work with your budget. IIRC, the Big Shuriken II comes with a slightly odd 100mm slim fan, but for better cooling, you should be able to switch that with a standard size 120/140mm fan. Check out some reviews, and owner feedback.Dash Kappei said:Actually I have had the case for a while now, built my htpc thanks to you guys' tips in last year's thread (especially with HAZARO's help). Then my cpu started overheating 'cause of problems with the stock fan on the i5 and after fixing it I also decided to buy a cooler. Buying the wrong cooler was due to the fact I read around the CM Hyper 212+ could fit in the Thermaltake DH101 but instead I found out myself that isn't true at all :-(
Out of what you posted (*much* appreciated!) I'm definitely leaning over LP since I don't wanna risk anymore fuck ups on my part and I'm too newb to consider WC modding with AIO. Considering I'd like to stay below 40 and I priorities a silent pc above all, which LP cooler should I go for between those you posted to do a *veeery* mild OC on my core i5 (from 2.67 to 3.2)? Sorry if I'm not able to do this research myself, but I'm really just going straight buying whatever you guys suggest
Are you sure if you even need the differences that Z68 offers, compared to P67? Those two boards you have listed really aren't comparable. Even for a Z68, the Fatal1ty may be more than you need/want. Try also looking into the Z68 Extreme3 Gen3, if you do go the Z68 route.tyagi said:
Tallshortman
Member
Mr Nightman said:
For reference, it is more powerful than the 560 Ti except for a couple of games that favor Nvidia cards.
·feist· said:
I probably don't need the extra features of a Z68 chipset. I had just heard that there had been some problems with P67, so assumed that "newer was better".
If there isn't any difference apart from the added features in Z68 (which I don't need), then I'll go the cheaper P67 route.
I suppose I need to go and read some recent P67 comparison articles.....
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
For my CPU, I had to bump LLC to 75% to be stable at 4.5 due to vdrop.gokieks said:
watGvaz said:
H212+ is great for the price point, but it's nowhere near the insanity compared to the high-end stuff. The Noctua for example is way larger in size.
This is a dumb question, but considering I'm extremely new to PC building, I'll ask anyway.
How exactly do fans like this work? Vertical ones (not my picture):
I assume the air is being pushed down onto the CPU somehow. Also, I also have a case fan for the back, that is sucking air out. Which way would I face the CPU fan in regards to the back fan? Have the CPU fan face the front so it sends air out to the back to be sucked out?
Once I get my comp all set up nicely, I'll have some Intel q9550 overclocking questions (trying to get it from 2.83 to 3.4- I know the basics but not all the pieces are falling into place...) however I'll give more details on that when I'm up to it.
How exactly do fans like this work? Vertical ones (not my picture):
I assume the air is being pushed down onto the CPU somehow. Also, I also have a case fan for the back, that is sucking air out. Which way would I face the CPU fan in regards to the back fan? Have the CPU fan face the front so it sends air out to the back to be sucked out?
Once I get my comp all set up nicely, I'll have some Intel q9550 overclocking questions (trying to get it from 2.83 to 3.4- I know the basics but not all the pieces are falling into place...) however I'll give more details on that when I'm up to it.
Fair Trial
Member
Mistle said:This is a dumb question, but considering I'm extremely new to PC building, I'll ask anyway.
How exactly do fans like this work? Vertical ones (not my picture):
I assume the air is being pushed down onto the CPU somehow. Also, I also have a case fan for the back, that is sucking air out. Which way would I face the CPU fan in regards to the back fan? Have the CPU fan face the front so it sends air out to the back to be sucked out?
Once I get my comp all set up nicely, I'll have some Intel q9550 overclocking questions (trying to get it from 2.83 to 3.4- I know the basics but not all the pieces are falling into place...) however I'll give more details on that when I'm up to it.
No, the heat trasfers on the heatsink and the fan pull it away in a push config, facing the heatsink.
Check out what you have and look to this general chart. Note fps is based off a fast quadcore.Sarcasm said:
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/GPU11/188
Unless I'm missing something, that picture doesn't really give me any perspective of where it is placed within the case... For instance, if it were placed like that in mine (facing the RAM), then it would be facing the front of the case, away from the back exhaust... Which doesn't seem like a good idea lol. Unless of course I'm completely misunderstanding how the fan works :S which maybe I am. And I just realized that all motherboards are probably constructed in a similar fashion, so perhaps that picture does give me perspective. In which case, disregard this ^^'Hazaro said:
Gradually, I'll learn
Have to start somewhere I guess.The fan pushes air through the heatsink. It is mounted closer to the front of your case and the backside of the fan (usually has a sticker with model and specs on it) will be facing the back of the case.Mistle said:Unless I'm missing something, that picture doesn't really give me any perspective of where it is placed within the case... For instance, if it were placed like that in mine (facing the RAM), then it would be facing the front of the case, away from the back exhaust... Which doesn't seem like a good idea lol. Unless of course I'm completely misunderstanding how the fan works :S which maybe I am. And I just realized that all motherboards are probably constructed in a similar fashion, so perhaps that picture does give me perspective. In which case, disregard this ^^'
Gradually, I'll learn
You can see that the fan blades are more in an angled attack position to catch the air to shove it backwards. Rotating counter clockwise
Here is where I tripped up. That makes too much sense, my bad. Ahhh okay now I understand, thanks for the help guys!Hazaro said:
I'll be back with overclocking questions sooner or later. I understand pretty much how all the parameters work, and calculations, but I'm having trouble finding the options in my BIOS to edit them. Some are there, while others aren't, so I don't have complete control. I'll be back with more details but in the meantime, if anybody knows why this might be so, just let me know
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