Also (since I've seen a few posts do this) I'm selling my old hardware in the B/S/T thread.
Corsair HX520W, PNY GTX 260, eVGA GTX 295
Corsair HX520W, PNY GTX 260, eVGA GTX 295
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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Scuba Steve
Member
So here's my deal. I just upgraded my computer, installed a new mobo (Asus P8P67), CPU (i5 2500k), RAM (G SKill 4GB), and PSU (Corsair TX750). Everything is running great since I upgraded about a week ago, it's just that everytime the computer goes into sleep mode, it'll wake up when I move the mouse or press a key, but the display won't turn on. What can I do to fix this?
Prophet Steve said:
Mugen 2 + Corsair Vengeance = very tight fit with the fan on the front
I had that combo before going water, and I had to lift the fan on the front (I had 2 fans installed) on top of the front Vengeance module (they were in 2nd & 4th slots), which in turn slightly pressed it against my sidepanel in a 690 II
if you're in the south of .nl as well I have that 690 II Advanced + extra window'ed sidepanel for sale if you're interested, PM me for that
also your friend can get a Corsair TX650v2 for the same price as that Nexus (which is non-modular as well as far as I can tell) ... I like the Corsair (TX/HX/AX) brand better
His parts reflected quiet options which is why I didn't say anything.n0n44m said:Mugen 2 + Corsair Vengeance = very tight fit with the fan on the front
I had that combo before going water, and I had to lift the fan on the front (I had 2 fans installed) on top of the front Vengeance module (they were in 2nd & 4th slots), which in turn slightly pressed it against my sidepanel in a 690 II
if you're in the south of .nl as well I have that 690 II Advanced + extra window'ed sidepanel for sale if you're interested, PM me for that
also your friend can get a Corsair TX650v2 for the same price as that Nexus (which is non-modular as well as far as I can tell) ... I like the Corsair (TX/HX/AX) brand better
Scuba Steve
Member
Hazaro said:
Thanks that worked!
In 3/4 days my new PC should reach me.
It will be pre-built, but without any software on it, so I'll have to install Win7 64, check the BIOS and install all the drivers.
Could you guys please advise me on what needs to be done? I mean, is there a preferred order for installing the drivers, do I need to alter some BIOS settings before installing Windows, do I need to somewhat prepare the SSD disk for being the boot disk....? Stuff like that.
I haven't prepared from scratch a system in years, so I'll be grateful for every droplet of wisdom.
Tnx in advance!
The final config is this:
1 x Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3Ghz 6MB 1155 Sandy Bridge Unlocked con GPU 95W BOX (BX80623I52500K) = 185.00
1 x DDR3 1600Mhz PC12800 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws-X 1.5V CL9 (2x4GB) (F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL) = 84.00
1 x Assemblaggio pc SENZA sistema operativo (006) = 25.00
1 x ASRock 1155 P67 Extreme4 B3 ATX (P67 Extreme4) = 122.00
1 x DVW LiteOn SATA black m.SW iHAS124 24x24x/DL8x8x/RAM inter (IHAS124-19) = 22.00
1 x COOLER MASTER 690 II Advanced - PURE Black Edition (RC-692-KKN2) = 94.00
1 x Corsair Enthusiast Series CMPSU-750TXV2EU 750W (CMPSU-750TXV2EU) = 89.00
1 x GF GTX580 Gainward 1536MB Phantom 2xDVI/HDMI/DP (Gainward 2098) = 370.00
1 x Crucial SSD 128GB Serie M4 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s (CT128M4SSD2) = 179.00
1 x SAMSUNG 2TB HD204UI 5400rpm 32MB Spinpoint F4EG (HD204UI) = 58.00
It will be pre-built, but without any software on it, so I'll have to install Win7 64, check the BIOS and install all the drivers.
Could you guys please advise me on what needs to be done? I mean, is there a preferred order for installing the drivers, do I need to alter some BIOS settings before installing Windows, do I need to somewhat prepare the SSD disk for being the boot disk....? Stuff like that.
I haven't prepared from scratch a system in years, so I'll be grateful for every droplet of wisdom.
Tnx in advance!
The final config is this:
1 x Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3Ghz 6MB 1155 Sandy Bridge Unlocked con GPU 95W BOX (BX80623I52500K) = 185.00
1 x DDR3 1600Mhz PC12800 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws-X 1.5V CL9 (2x4GB) (F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL) = 84.00
1 x Assemblaggio pc SENZA sistema operativo (006) = 25.00
1 x ASRock 1155 P67 Extreme4 B3 ATX (P67 Extreme4) = 122.00
1 x DVW LiteOn SATA black m.SW iHAS124 24x24x/DL8x8x/RAM inter (IHAS124-19) = 22.00
1 x COOLER MASTER 690 II Advanced - PURE Black Edition (RC-692-KKN2) = 94.00
1 x Corsair Enthusiast Series CMPSU-750TXV2EU 750W (CMPSU-750TXV2EU) = 89.00
1 x GF GTX580 Gainward 1536MB Phantom 2xDVI/HDMI/DP (Gainward 2098) = 370.00
1 x Crucial SSD 128GB Serie M4 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s (CT128M4SSD2) = 179.00
1 x SAMSUNG 2TB HD204UI 5400rpm 32MB Spinpoint F4EG (HD204UI) = 58.00
ConstructMe
Banned
Yes itll handle it and then some.Jibbed said:
Ezahn said:
Going from my experience you shouldn't have to do any of this. Upon initial boot-up you'll get a black screen with white text telling you to either choose a boot drive, or insert a disk into the DVD drive to boot from.
Insert your Windows disk and go from there. My SSD basically set itself up.
Before you do this though, go into your BIOS and enable the SATA channel for your Samsung HDD (if the builders haven't already done this) so that once Windows starts you can format it.
Drivers can be installed in any order. In Control Panel > Device Manager you'll see some devices saying 'Generic' and some 'Unknown's. Go from there.
Only use the BIOS if you want to optimize your system, or if something isn't right.
Scuba Steve
Member
One more question, so I just ordered a new hard drive, a WD Caviar Black to replace a pathetic 120GB Seagate that's slowing my great hardware down. I plan to just throw that harddrive out, so my question is, when I get my new harddrive, what's the best way to move Windows 7 onto my new WD hdd? I've gotten everything I want backed up on an external hard drive. I have the Windows 7 install disc, I just need to be able to reuse that CD key. What's the easiest way if I don't plan keep the harddrive I'm replacing?
evil solrac v3.0
Member
knitoe said:
an 8600gt for physX with a 560 or 570 would be worse performing than if he had no physX card.
evil solrac v3.0
Member
MysticX said:
is this for an HTPC build? have you considered a single slot GTS 450 from MSI? 129 at newegg.
daviyoung said:
Tnx a lot daviyoung.
I'll figure out how to "enable SATA channel". ;-)
So that means that there's no need to check that "TRIM" or other things are activated for the SSD? Or maybe that is a in-windows thing, not a bios thing?
I remember someone lamented not having activated something before installing Windows, but I can be wrong.
I wouldn't say unsafe (since most PSUs are rated for continuous power), but under heavy load situations you can peak very close if the 12V can't deliver nearly all of that power.Ezahn said:
If you don't run a GPU stress program you'll probably be fine, but to me when you run $1,000 of graphics cards you should spend a touch extra. It is not hard to swap in a new PSU. That's all.
Initially when I got my PC it was at 3.3Ghz (i5 2500k) and the temperatures were really cool at 32 degrees.
Now ever since I opened ASUS AI Tweak, the CPU timings have all gone haywire.
It runs at 1.3GHZ now, and the temps have shot up to 38 degrees C. Occasionally it might shoot to 3.7GHz. How do I return it to normal?
Now ever since I opened ASUS AI Tweak, the CPU timings have all gone haywire.
It runs at 1.3GHZ now, and the temps have shot up to 38 degrees C. Occasionally it might shoot to 3.7GHz. How do I return it to normal?
ss_lemonade
Member
I think I can get a 2nd gtx 275 for around 50bucks here at my place. You think that's a good deal (for sli 275) while I wait for the next batch of gpus to come out? I already mentioned my specs before but well, here they are again for reference:
gtx 275
2500k
4gb
hec cougar 700w
Also wondeirng if that PSU will handle the sli setup just fine. I usually game at 1920x1080 and my cpu is clocked at 4.5, so I guess sli will help a bit here
gtx 275
2500k
4gb
hec cougar 700w
Also wondeirng if that PSU will handle the sli setup just fine. I usually game at 1920x1080 and my cpu is clocked at 4.5, so I guess sli will help a bit here
-viper- said:
It's underclocking it when you don't need the extra speed to save electricity and generate less heat.
Once you start using something CPU intensive, you'll see it shoot up the the full speed. It can also bump up to 3.7ghz with turbo. (turbo is normal, but isn't full time)
It seems like there's nothing wrong and your cpu is running at stock settings.
Also, 38C is not hot at all. Under 70C is generally where you want to be under load with an overclock.
-viper- said:
You probably just saw it at a low the first time on a colder day or after it had been idling for a while or something.
Also, it takes barely a fraction of a second for it to return to it's normal speed, so you're not really at a lower clock. If you watch it during normal use, it'll bump up and down quite a bit. So the temperature would reflect the idle temp at the higher speed if you were measuring it while using the computer.
The real test for your temps should be under load. Run prime95 for 5-10 minutes and check the temperatures then. Idle temp isn't that important as long as it isn't outrageous.
You don't understand, you are trying to compare idle temps with temps when you are doing something. You haven't seen your CPU cooler do anything. Run prime95 or covert a video or something. The temp at load is what you care about and is something you can easily compare. If you just look at your temps randomly, they will be greatly different depending on what your PC is doing. Load temps should be 50-60 degrees and be perfectly normal. No need to be annoyed.-viper- said:
Ok, so I am in the looking towards perhaps building a pc, but I have only ever owned a laptop, and while I am good with computers at a software level, I have pretty much no clue on the hardware side of things.
Obviously I need to do more research, but I thought I would fill out this list here to hopefully get some quick feedback!
Budget: £1000 (tbh the thought of spending that much scares me, but the budget is there if needed)
Main Use: Gaming and Music production (Presumably I need a good sound card for this?)
Monitor Resolution: I would want a decent resolution, so 1080p?
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, total war shogun
When will you build?: Can wait
Will you be overclocking?: Most likely no, as I would prefer the computer to run as silently as possible.
Other notes:
I would want to make sure that this was as upgradable as possible, and not to have to worry too much about heat and sound from the computer.
Also, and I understand this is a hard question to answer, but would it be better to get a laptop for my circumstances, bearing in mind it would have to have a high resolution, not get too hot and not look like a toy. If I did end up getting a laptop, it would not have to play battlefield 3, but It would have to be able to play the witcher 2 at medium settings and at 30fps...
I understand this post is long, unspecific, and clearly written by someone who doesn't know what they want, but I needs dat GAF guidance!
(also, is Novatech the best site to use for UK?)
Obviously I need to do more research, but I thought I would fill out this list here to hopefully get some quick feedback!
Budget: £1000 (tbh the thought of spending that much scares me, but the budget is there if needed)
Main Use: Gaming and Music production (Presumably I need a good sound card for this?)
Monitor Resolution: I would want a decent resolution, so 1080p?
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, total war shogun
When will you build?: Can wait
Will you be overclocking?: Most likely no, as I would prefer the computer to run as silently as possible.
Other notes:
I would want to make sure that this was as upgradable as possible, and not to have to worry too much about heat and sound from the computer.
Also, and I understand this is a hard question to answer, but would it be better to get a laptop for my circumstances, bearing in mind it would have to have a high resolution, not get too hot and not look like a toy. If I did end up getting a laptop, it would not have to play battlefield 3, but It would have to be able to play the witcher 2 at medium settings and at 30fps...
I understand this post is long, unspecific, and clearly written by someone who doesn't know what they want, but I needs dat GAF guidance!
(also, is Novatech the best site to use for UK?)
Prophet Steve
Member
So, I'm finalizing some choices for my PC and I still have a few questions:
The Acer S231HLbd monitor, does somebody knows more about this one? I cannot seem the find many reviews about it and I am uncertain about Edge-Lit LED. Is is fine to pick something Edge-litted or should I look at a completely CCFL screen?
Also, the 6950, is it still possible with some brands to try and unlock it to a 6970? Any specific brands with more chance? Or will it automatically end in a failure?
The Acer S231HLbd monitor, does somebody knows more about this one? I cannot seem the find many reviews about it and I am uncertain about Edge-Lit LED. Is is fine to pick something Edge-litted or should I look at a completely CCFL screen?
Also, the 6950, is it still possible with some brands to try and unlock it to a 6970? Any specific brands with more chance? Or will it automatically end in a failure?
I don't think you understand me - previously on CPU-Z it was 3300Mhz. Idle temps were around 29, 29, 33, 27.mike23 said:
Now It's 1600Mhz and idle temps are: 35, 34, 38, 31. Load temps at 3.7Ghz = 54C.
Why did it shoot up? Also one core seems to be hotter. Should I reseat the heatsink? I'm honestly no good with this - this is my first PC I built and I bought the Noctua D14 as it was supposed to be the best air cooler out there. But the temps seem to be really disappointing. Airflow can't be a problem as temps were cool for a whole week at 30-32.
-viper- said:
I understand you. Previously, you happened to see the cpu when it wasn't clocked down to save power. Nothing has changed, you're just noticing it now.
54C is good for load. If you overclock, try to keep it under 70C.
It really doesn't matter at all what the idle temps are as long as load stays below or at 70C. I don't know why you're obsessed with idle temps even though the computer isn't ever fully idle. The idle temp difference is nothing. I'm telling you everything is fine, but you keep arguing with me and telling me it isn't. How low do you think the temperatures should be?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Cores being hotter or cooler is very common. It could be caused by how the thermal paste settles, how the heatsink sits, or even be an issue with the CPU itself (usually just the sensor). It's not really worth being concerned about, just make sure you go by the highest temp to be safe.-viper- said:
And mike23 is right, idle temps are generally meaningless outside of troubleshooting. Temps are only important so you don't cook your parts, and you'll obviously never run hotter idle than during load.
8800 or a more recent equivalent is generally the recommended Physx card. I'm not sure you would see a huge improvement over a 8600GT though. Chances are your 5850 is limiting you there, I might be mistaken but I think Batman was kind of gimped on AMD/ATI cards.hlhbk said:
chaosblade said:
Actually I am able to run Batman at its highest settings with everything on its highest with medium physx on my 5850/8600 GT setup between 50-60 FPS. Now I am confused though, I was told last page that my card is still good and that I shouldn't upgrade until the next gen of cards come out, and now I am being told my 5850 is holding me back. Which one is it?
So I read up about enabling AHCI in Win 7 and how it is a good idea to do so. I have an internal SATA drive in an enclosure connected by eSATA. So if I enable AHCI, I should be able to turn on the drive while the computer is on, and access the drive, and I can turn it off while the computer is on, and it won't fuck it up? Am I understanding this right? If that is the case, oh man that would be awesome.
DTX cases. Anyone have one or have case suggestions? Building a machine for my brother and I was looking at the SG08. Planning to go with a Zotac mITX mobo, i5-2500 with a shuriken cooler and a twin frozr 560 Ti but I am very concerned with the cooling capacity of such a small case. I might go for a 2500s instead to keep temps down.
Corky said:
Ok in my current setup I am getting 30 FPS on extreme at 1920x1200 in crysis 2 with the DX 11 features turned on.
I can run most new games at a pretty great clip (I get anywhere between 30-50 FPS in the Witcher 2 with everything on except uber sampling). I can get 60 FPS in alice madness returns with Physx low. I am mainly wanting to make sure I got what I need for Skyrim and Arkham City.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IelMo1fqL00&feature=player_embedded
A look at upcoming Noctua coolers.
A look at upcoming Noctua coolers.
Those are not mutually exclusive concepts. Your 5850 is the bottleneck, but the performance gain to a 570 will not be significant. Likely the upgrade that would get you the best bang for your buck is a 580. This is why I said wait until the next gen, unless you have a lot of disposable income.hlhbk said:
hlhbk said:
I think you're not going to have to buy new gear in a while tbh. It's all individual frankly, I like many others really want our games to run as close to/at 60fps as possible and there are others who are perfectly satisfied with 30fps.
Also you don't have to worry, skyrim is a console game running dx9 so if your pc can manage regular pc games at 30 it's going to manage skyrim with ease. And subsequently if your pc manages Arkham Asylum well then I would be suprised if it wasn't to do so with Arkham City aswell.
Those saying a 5850 won't cut are the same people , like me, who want's to play the latest on the absolute highest settings @1080p minimum and 60fps.
Ezahn said:
I've been using it since its launch. Initially, I felt buyer's remorse due to just a small selection of compatible titles and also due to the top end cards not being powerful enough to deliver a playable framerate for all games at high settings.
Now, though, I always try to play single player games with 3D Vision since it adds a lot to the visual spectacle.
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