"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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ithorien said:
I recommend a Synology http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049MPQGI/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Friend of mine bought this after we talked about it, and he's very very happy. Of course this is only two drives, so you'd have to spend more for bigger capacity.
Click to expand...

Thanks but 2 bays are definitely not enough. I'm looking at ~8TB now with the option to expand.


gokieks said:
1. If you're using FreeNAS, you really should take advantage of its ZFS support. RAID-Z is not without its quirks (primary one being that when expanding you have to add drives in sets of 3 or more), but in terms of features it's way ahead of software RAID-5. In terms of reliability it should be fine, especially since RAID-Z vdevs (think RAID arrays) are designed to be portable - one created under FreeBSD can be later moved to running under OpenSolaris.

2. It really depends on your workload - if it's going to be a personal NAS with few concurrent users accessing it, any recent multi-core CPU should be fine. But with ZFS, more memory is very helpful - and RAM is so cheap that honestly it's not worth skimping out on. Any cheap Athlon/Phenom X2/X3 with 4GB of RAM would be more than enough for a home use NAS.

3. Yes, you should be able to if it's a standard SATA controller card (i.e. not a RAID controller).

4. I don't have any links to a FreeNAS guide, unfortunately - my file server is actually an old desktop (single-core A64 with 2GB of DDR1) running FreeBSD, with 3 2TB ZFS drives in RAID-Z. Performance on it is a little subpar (multi-core CPU and 4GB of RAM is the recommended spec for ZFS fileservers), but it's worked out very well for me so far, and I'll be converting my current desktop to handling the fileserver duty after my next desktop build.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for your input. I'm feeling much more confident that I can slap one of these together for way cheaper than a retail box and with much more room for expansion.
 
Hello folks!

Looking to get a new monitor...

Current monitor
http://accessories.dell.com/sna/products/displays/productdetail.aspx?c=ca&l=en&s=corp&sku=320-7640

Looking at these 2 monitors
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=60599&vpn=VW2420H&manufacture=BenQ&promoid=1334

http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=55964&vpn=EW2420&manufacture=BenQ&promoid=1336

They seem VERY similar.

It's a bigger monitor, and higher res. (Would 1600x900 -> 1920x1080 make much of a difference in game performance on a 5850?) and should be higher image quality. One thing that concerns me is response time. Current one is 5ms, these are Grey to Grey 8 ms. Is this a big deal? Will it be noticable? I'm not a supar l33t pr0 g@m3r but I don't want to spend $200 on a new monitor and have it have some noticeable flaw with it. Is this even a good price? If not, what would you recommend for a good monitor for ~$200 (less is fine). US or Canada sites. I have a PO box need be.

Thanks for the help.
 
Ether_Snake said:
Hey guys I need a new modem because I'm switching IP. I don't want a wireless modem. I got a Speedstream 5200 and I can't figure what to buy to replace it since I have to return this one. Any idea?

I'm such a noob:p
Click to expand...
5200 is good enough.

If I remember correctly, that modem does ADSL2+, which is the latest that DSL can do.


black_vegeta said:
Anyone have a pic of the power pins a touch with a screw driver to test it outside the case?
Click to expand...


Look in your motherboard manual and see which two pins are the power switch.

Bridge the two pins together by taking a flat head screen driver and connect the two pins using the flat surface. The computer should power on instantaneously.

If I have time later, I'll make a video.
 
WEGGLES said:
Hello folks!

Looking to get a new monitor...

Current monitor
http://accessories.dell.com/sna/products/displays/productdetail.aspx?c=ca&l=en&s=corp&sku=320-7640

Looking at these 2 monitors
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=60599&vpn=VW2420H&manufacture=BenQ&promoid=1334

http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=55964&vpn=EW2420&manufacture=BenQ&promoid=1336

They seem VERY similar.

It's a bigger monitor, and higher res. (Would 1600x900 -> 1920x1080 make much of a difference in game performance on a 5850?) and should be higher image quality. One thing that concerns me is response time. Current one is 5ms, these are Grey to Grey 8 ms. Is this a big deal? Will it be noticable? I'm not a supar l33t pr0 g@m3r but I don't want to spend $200 on a new monitor and have it have some noticeable flaw with it. Is this even a good price? If not, what would you recommend for a good monitor for ~$200 (less is fine). US or Canada sites. I have a PO box need be.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

I quite enjoy my VE247H: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236112&cm_re=ve247h-_-24-236-112-_-Product Got it for around $30 less than this price on a sale a couple months ago, though. It's LED though, so that may be a turn off.
 
Soka said:
I quite enjoy my VE247H: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236112&cm_re=ve247h-_-24-236-112-_-Product Got it for around $30 less than this price on a sale a couple months ago, though. It's LED though, so that may be a turn off.
Click to expand...
Hmm.

Why would LED be a turnoff? (The 2 I'm looking at are LED as well)

This one has a 4x faster grey to grey time as well.

Wish I knew how substantial this was. I'd like to go to a store to see them side by side, but most stores don't carry that many displays and usually have them improperly set up to look super bright in the store lights but not realistic looking... or have motionflow shit on.
 
WEGGLES said:
Hmm.

Why would LED be a turnoff? (The 2 I'm looking at are LED as well)

This one has a 4x faster grey to grey time as well.

Wish I knew how substantial this was. I'd like to go to a store to see them side by side, but most stores don't carry that many displays and usually have them improperly set up to look super bright in the store lights but not realistic looking... or have motionflow shit on.
Click to expand...

Between the two, I'd say the EW2420 mostly as I'm more familiar with it as a basis of comparison for other monitors than the VW2420. That said, I'm also familiar with the fact that the EW2420 has a terrible panel in terms of inter-unit variability; if you get a good one, you'll probably be fine with it but it's a damn lottery on getting a good one. There seems to be the discrepancy between panels with small failures (dead pixels, LED rippling, varying backlight uniformity) that kind of drags the value down. But, it's kind of expected from such a budget monitor.

If you don't mind giving up the VA display, the LG W2442PA is a really good TN panel for gaming; beating it in terms of responsiveness is pretty hard without going into 120 Hz panels.

Again, nothing wrong with the EW2420, there's just the chance of not getting a perfect panel out of it. If you don't mind dealing with returns until you get a good one, I'd say go for it as it's a good monitor for the price. If you don't mind spending a little more and getting a bit better of a monitor, the LG W2442PA is really good for the price bracket it's in (~$250 US). If you want to stick to VA/IPS panels, I'd have to look into it more to get a good response for you.

Edit: LG W2442PA Review
Some reading on the inter-unit variability on the BenQ EW2420, And some general reading on the BenQ EW2420, And TFT Central's review.
 
scy said:
Between the two, I'd say the EW2420 mostly as I'm more familiar with it as a basis of comparison for other monitors than the VW2420. That said, I'm also familiar with the fact that the EW2420 has a terrible panel in terms of inter-unit variability; if you get a good one, you'll probably be fine with it but it's a damn lottery on getting a good one. There seems to be the discrepancy between panels with small failures (dead pixels, LED rippling, varying backlight uniformity) that kind of drags the value down. But, it's kind of expected from such a budget monitor.

If you don't mind giving up the VA display, the LG W2442PA is a really good TN panel for gaming; beating it in terms of responsiveness is pretty hard without going into 120 Hz panels.

Again, nothing wrong with the EW2420, there's just the chance of not getting a perfect panel out of it. If you don't mind dealing with returns until you get a good one, I'd say go for it as it's a good monitor for the price. If you don't mind spending a little more and getting a bit better of a monitor, the LG W2442PA is really good for the price bracket it's in (~$250 US). If you want to stick to VA/IPS panels, I'd have to look into it more to get a good response for you.

Edit: LG W2442PA Review
Some reading on the inter-unit variability on the BenQ EW2420.
Click to expand...
From the benq site it looks like the EW and the VW monitors are the same (mostly) the VW is thinner and the EW has a usb hub and speakers. But dealing with returns? REALLY rather not. I just want a new monitor. I don't really need one, so I'd rather deal with a big hassle.

Is the jump to VA/IPS good enough to warrant the price and potential response issues?
 
WEGGLES said:
From the benq site it looks like the EW and the VW monitors are the same (mostly) the VW is thinner and the EW has a usb hub and speakers. But dealing with returns? REALLY rather not. I just want a new monitor. I don't really need one, so I'd rather deal with a big hassle.

Is the jump to VA/IPS good enough to warrant the price and potential response issues?
Click to expand...

Man, was hoping to get the other two links edited in before you responded :x Also, NCIX has the LG W2442PA and looks like it's $190 CAD so it's not more expensive than those two. Damn. Was ~$260-ish US when I was looking at buying one not long ago.

As for VA or IPS value, it depends on how much you care about the image quality. TN does look worse but I'd rather have a high-end TN than a low-end VA or IPS panel, personally. It also depends on what you do primarily with the monitor. If you care primarily about gaming for gaming, TN panels definitely win it out with their generally better responsiveness; if you care about anime and text reading, glossy TN is a bit better, though you'll probably need to build an emo-fort of some kind to keep the glare down.

But, if you care mostly for how your colors in general look and your viewing angle (i.e., not always having to be same level in front of the screens, though this only really applies to IPS), then moving up to a VA or IPS panel is worth the cost. Especially if you can just deal with the possibility of some input lag/ghosting (which, really, isn't as big of a deal as it's made out to be most of the time).

Edit: And, just to add, I'd definitely go for IPS over VA as, really, VA is just better colors without the viewing angles. VA is more of the cheaper IPS panel if we want to boil it down to bare basics.
 
scy said:
Man, was hoping to get the other two links edited in before you responded :x Also, NCIX has the LG W2442PA and looks like it's $190 CAD so it's not more expensive than those two. Damn. Was ~$260-ish US when I was looking at buying one not long ago.

As for VA or IPS value, it depends on how much you care about the image quality. TN does look worse but I'd rather have a high-end TN than a low-end VA or IPS panel, personally. It also depends on what you do primarily with the monitor. If you care primarily about gaming for gaming, TN panels definitely win it out with their generally better responsiveness; if you care about anime and text reading, glossy TN is a bit better, though you'll probably need to build an emo-fort of some kind to keep the glare down.

But, if you care mostly for how your colors in general look and your viewing angle (i.e., not always having to be same level in front of the screens, though this only really applies to IPS), then moving up to a VA or IPS panel is worth the cost. Especially if you can just deal with the possibility of some input lag/ghosting (which, really, isn't as big of a deal as it's made out to be most of the time).

Edit: And, just to add, I'd definitely go for IPS over VA as, really, VA is just better colors without the viewing angles. VA is more of the cheaper IPS panel if we want to boil it down to bare basics.
Click to expand...
I mostly want to game/browse the internet on this PC.

For someone who mostly wants to game you'd say I'm best off with the LG W2442PA?

A bit of a stretch, but how would it's picture quality compare to my current Dell s2009Wb?

This seems to look fine, other than dark colours... but it could be a case similar to good quality speakers where I don't know what I'm missing right now.

(Thanks for your help so far)
 
L00P said:
I'm thinking of getting this soon when I get paid. Anyone know if a 500 watt PSU is enough for it?
Click to expand...
Eltacoman said:
I'd recommend 750w.
Click to expand...
A good 500W is fine (520W more specifically).
I'd recommend the XFX Core 550w.

The 750W in the OP build is only there for upgradability in the future to support 2 cards.
 
claviertekky said:
Look in your motherboard manual and see which two pins are the power switch.

Bridge the two pins together by taking a flat head screen driver and connect the two pins using the flat surface. The computer should power on instantaneously.

If I have time later, I'll make a video.
Click to expand...

Got it. She posted!

Now, just have to put her in the case and connect everything.

Thanks! :D
 
Please help me PC gaf. Bought a new hdd since it seems my old one died and now I can't seem to be able to use my keyboard to boot from win7 disc. It registers me pressing F12 but won't let me select boot device. Wired keyboard.
 
Cory_t_ said:
I'm looking in to building a NAS box using FreeNAS and I have a few questions. Feel free to slap me if this is too off-topic.

1) I'v read that software RAID5 can be risky. Anyone have any bad experiences with it?

2) What kind of hardware am I looking at? The most recent suggestion I could find for a cheap build was using an AMD sempron at 2.8GHz and 1GB of RAM. Is this really sufficient?

3) If I grab a mobo with 6 SATA ports and I want to expand down the road can I simply grab a SATA card and add to the RAID using that without having to back-up and rebuild the entire array?

4) If anyone could link me to a semi-recent how-to on building a FreeNAS box that would be just awesome. I can't seem to find anything more recent than like 2009.

Again if this is off-topic than just kick me out but to anyone who can help, thanks very much!

EDIT: Forgot my most important question. Is this worth my time? Can I build something that will be cheaper than a 4 or 6 bay retail NAS box?
Click to expand...

I have a 18TB (6x3TB) NAS set up using FreeNAS 7.

1. I use Raid-z and it's great. The good thing is that all the zfs configuration info is stored on the drives, so if you lose the OS it's as easy as doing an import and you have your config back. It is also better at finding corruption (using scrub) and stuff that other raid systems wouldn't catch.

2. I would definitely go for something multi-core at least. I used the opportunity to upgrade my Q6600 desktop to a 2500k, etc and managed to get a lot for less by reusing stuff. It only cost my like $200 more vs keeping my old desktop and building a NAS from scratch. A faster CPU will also help if you decide to use the encryption features in FreeNAS 7. My NAS has the 12gb of ddr2 that was in my old desktop, I probably wouldn't go under 4gb with ZFS.

3. You can't expand the raid-z per se. If you buy 3 2TB drives first, you'll have 4TB and 2TB redundancy. If you buy 3 more later, you need to add them as their own raid-z set. They will still appear as one drive, but you'll have 8TB worth of space instead of 10TB if you built it as one raid-z. It's also less effective than a raid-z2 (two drives redundancy over the whole array rather than 1 for each half) I would suggest buying the drives up front if you can, it's easier and the drives aren't really that expensive.

4. It's pretty simple, same as building any computer.
For the OS, you have two options, embedded and full.
http://sourceforge.net/apps/phpbb/freenas/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=558
I use embedded on a flash drive so I don't use any sata ports for a non-data drive.
You can flash the embedded install right onto the flash drive from your windows machine and it's as easy as that.

If you have VMware or something like it, you can install FreeNAS into a VM and try it out.
I would also suggest trying out several of the NAS OSes before you start copying data onto your drives.
napp-it is solaris based and it has a much newer verison of ZFS if you go with

Pricing is probably in the 300 range for a decent machine from scratch before drives, a little more if you add a sata card. I skeleton priced this cheap one a few days ago.

$50 case and power supply - make sure the PS has enough sata power cables or buy adapters. It's usually cheaper to find a PS with more sata cables than to buy the adapters in my experience.
$60 for Athlon II X2 255
$50 for AM3 mobo - make sure it has enough sata ports and gigabit lan.
$20 video card (or a mobo with onboard video)
$40 2x2GB ddr3
$5 2GB-4GB usb flash drive for the OS

It can be a bit painful finding a mobo with enough sata ports, PS with enough cables, and a case with enough places for hard drives. This can help you squeeze drives into a case with a lot of 5.25" bays for cheap.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817993002&Tpk=coolermaster cage
 
reptilescorpio said:
Please help me PC gaf. Bought a new hdd since it seems my old one died and now I can't seem to be able to use my keyboard to boot from win7 disc. It registers me pressing F12 but won't let me select boot device. Wired keyboard.
Click to expand...
Plug, replug different. Repeat until it works.
Makes sure its a USB 2.0 and not a 3.0
 
Hazaro said:
Plug, replug different. Repeat until it works.
Makes sure its a USB 2.0 and not a 3.0
Click to expand...
Tried every usb port available. Let's me F12 but nothing after. Brand new WD hdd in there. Using and old keyboard so it wouldn't be 3.0
 
Hey guys, I seem to be running into a small problem and was looking here to maybe find some help. I just recently had a new computer put together after my video card took a dive and decided to go ahead with a full upgrade rather than just replace the video card. Anyway, this is what I have now:

ASUS Sabertooth P67
Intel i5-2500k
MSI GTX570
8Gig DDR 1600 Ram

Anyway, what has been happening is that when I turn on my computer from a cold boot, it will power up for at least three seconds, turn off, and power up again before booting into Windows. It may do this 2 or 3 times before it will actually boot into Windows.

I spent some time looking around on Google, and things seem to be pointing at the motherboard, but I really can't be sure. I tried one suggested fix I saw, but it didn't seem to work.

After the computer boots up, everything is smooth sailing. It's just when I turn it off for the night, and turn it on when I get home from work is where it seems to have problems. Anyone else have this same motherboard and have problems? I really would like to try and figure this out as it is a pretty nice computer other than the restarting.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
FatBaby said:
Hey guys, I seem to be running into a small problem and was looking here to maybe find some help. I just recently had a new computer put together after my video card took a dive and decided to go ahead with a full upgrade rather than just replace the video card. Anyway, this is what I have now:

ASUS Sabertooth P67
Intel i5-2500k
MSI GTX570
8Gig DDR 1600 Ram

Anyway, what has been happening is that when I turn on my computer from a cold boot, it will power up for at least three seconds, turn off, and power up again before booting into Windows. It may do this 2 or 3 times before it will actually boot into Windows.

I spent some time looking around on Google, and things seem to be pointing at the motherboard, but I really can't be sure. I tried one suggested fix I saw, but it didn't seem to work.

After the computer boots up, everything is smooth sailing. It's just when I turn it off for the night, and turn it on when I get home from work is where it seems to have problems. Anyone else have this same motherboard and have problems? I really would like to try and figure this out as it is a pretty nice computer other than the restarting.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Asus sandy bridge MBs had this problem before bios / Version B3 update. Do you have the latest bios version?

If no, update the bios.

If yes, here are some old fixes that might work. Try clearing the CMOS. Try enable boot from PCie, login to Windows, restart and disable boot from PCie.
 
knitoe said:
Asus sandy bridge MBs had this problem before bios / Version B3 update. Do you have the latest bios version?

If no, update the bios.

If yes, here are some old fixes that might work. Try clearing the CMOS. Try enable boot from PCie, login to Windows, restart and disable boot from PCie.
Click to expand...

I believe when I was fiddling with the BIOS in my attempt to try the fix I saw, I think the BIOS said it was 1502. What's the latest one?

How hard/easy is it to update the BIOS? I have never done it before. Well I lose any settings? I currently have a couple hard drives set up in a RAID that I had a friend set up for me and I would like to see not having to figure out how to set that up again once I update the BIOS.
 
FatBaby said:
I believe when I was fiddling with the BIOS in my attempt to try the fix I saw, I think the BIOS said it was 1502. What's the latest one?

How hard/easy is it to update the BIOS? I have never done it before. Well I lose any settings? I currently have a couple hard drives set up in a RAID that I had a friend set up for me and I would like to see not having to figure out how to set that up again once I update the BIOS.
Click to expand...
From Asus website, latest is 1801.

It's very easy to update the bios. You download the bios file to USB, go into your bios, select the file from USB, and then, flash it. Your raid setup should be OK, but you will probably need to change some settings to enable them. Thus, you might want to wait for your friend to flash the bios.

The option about clearing the CMOS will also reset your bios settings which you will have to manually redo. Might also want to get your friend's help here. But the enable "Boot from PCIe," you could try yourself.
 
Question about my Corsair AX850:

8-Bottom-Fan.jpg


I opened my PC case to have a look at my PSU to see if I'd be able to SLI a 580. On the bottom row the last 2 plugs are for the PCI-E cables. There are two 6+2 connectors on one end of the cable, and one 12 pin connector on the other. With my 580 the last slot on the bottom row is taken.

Now the one next to it is supposed to be for SLI, which makes sense as I have another PCI-E cable. The 8-pin PSU cable is plugged into the respective slot on the motherboard, but I just realized that the other end of that cable is taking up the 2nd available 12-pin slot on the PSU where my second graphics card would go.

If I look in the connector it's only using 8 pins and the other 4 are empty, but it cannot be broken apart like the other cables. So if I'm looking at this right, I'm going to have to buy another PSU if I want to go SLI?

Am I fucked or am I just tired? I must have something plugged in the wrong area?
 
knitoe said:
From Asus website, latest is 1801.

It's very easy to update the bios. You download the bios file to USB, go into your bios, select the file from USB, and then, flash it. Your raid setup should be OK, but you will probably need to change some settings to enable them. Thus, you might want to wait for your friend to flash the bios.

The option about clearing the CMOS will also reset your bios settings which you will have to manually redo. Might also want to get your friend's help here. But the enable "Boot from PCIe," you could try yourself.
Click to expand...

That "boot from PCIe" was one of the fixes I tried. Didn't seem to work. :/
 
Smokey said:
Question about my Corsair AX850:

8-Bottom-Fan.jpg


I opened my PC case to have a look at my PSU to see if I'd be able to SLI a 580. On the bottom row the last 2 plugs are for the PCI-E cables. There are two 6+2 connectors on one end of the cable, and one 12 pin connector on the other. With my 580 the last slot on the bottom row is taken.

Now the one next to it is supposed to be for SLI, which makes sense as I have another PCI-E cable. The 8-pin PSU cable is plugged into the respective slot on the motherboard, but I just realized that the other end of that cable is taking up the 2nd available 12-pin slot on the PSU where my second graphics card would go.

If I look in the connector it's only using 8 pins and the other 4 are empty, but it cannot be broken apart like the other cables. So if I'm looking at this right, I'm going to have to buy another PSU if I want to go SLI?

Am I fucked or am I just tired? I must have something plugged in the wrong area?
Click to expand...
Layout is almost exactly the same as my X750. You are tired.
There should be a 8 pin to 8 pin mobo power cable in the bag.

I have no idea why they have a 10/12 pin mobo power. Confused me as well.
 
Smokey said:
Question about my Corsair AX850:

8-Bottom-Fan.jpg


I opened my PC case to have a look at my PSU to see if I'd be able to SLI a 580. On the bottom row the last 2 plugs are for the PCI-E cables. There are two 6+2 connectors on one end of the cable, and one 12 pin connector on the other. With my 580 the last slot on the bottom row is taken.

Now the one next to it is supposed to be for SLI, which makes sense as I have another PCI-E cable. The 8-pin PSU cable is plugged into the respective slot on the motherboard, but I just realized that the other end of that cable is taking up the 2nd available 12-pin slot on the PSU where my second graphics card would go.

If I look in the connector it's only using 8 pins and the other 4 are empty, but it cannot be broken apart like the other cables. So if I'm looking at this right, I'm going to have to buy another PSU if I want to go SLI?

Am I fucked or am I just tired? I must have something plugged in the wrong area?
Click to expand...


I'll be honest with you, I'm not sure what you said, but no, you don't need another PSU for SLI.
use the top slots for PCI connections, I have the 1200 ad it's the same thing.
edit: what hazaro said.
 
Man, this is alot more work than I thought. It's fun though.

I closed her up for the night and I will continue wiring everything together first thing tomorrow.
 
black_vegeta said:
Man, this is alot more work than I thought. It's fun though.

I closed her up for the night and I will continue wiring everything together first thing tomorrow.
Click to expand...

That's exactly how I felt when I built mine a few weeks ago. "Wow, this is taking longer than I expected and it's a bit more complicated than I anticipated, but I think I'm doing it right and it's kind of fun!"

Don't forget: Hide those cables (P.S. zipties are your friend!)
 
Hazaro said:
A good 500W is fine (520W more specifically).
I'd recommend the XFX Core 550w.

The 750W in the OP build is only there for upgradability in the future to support 2 cards.
Click to expand...
Oh, I see. I will never do SLI/CF anyway so I guess this should be enough. Thanks for the input!
 
Soka said:
That's exactly how I felt when I built mine a few weeks ago. "Wow, this is taking longer than I expected and it's a bit more complicated than I anticipated, but I think I'm doing it right and it's kind of fun!"

Don't forget: Hide those cables (P.S. zipties are your friend!)
Click to expand...
I have a bag of them ready to go. :D
 
Had to buy as much as I could right now so that I could claim my build on my tax return. Order went through at 16:36 on June 30th lol

Ended up buying

Intel Core i5 2500K
Thermalright Silver Arrow CPU Cooler
G.Skill Sniper F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3
ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Motherboard B3

Now I have to wait until I get my tax rebate so I can buy a case to put this stuff in :(
 
knitoe said:
From Asus website, latest is 1801.

It's very easy to update the bios. You download the bios file to USB, go into your bios, select the file from USB, and then, flash it. Your raid setup should be OK, but you will probably need to change some settings to enable them. Thus, you might want to wait for your friend to flash the bios.

The option about clearing the CMOS will also reset your bios settings which you will have to manually redo. Might also want to get your friend's help here. But the enable "Boot from PCIe," you could try yourself.
Click to expand...

Does the USB stick need to be a certain format? i.e. FAT32/NTFS?
 
Hazaro said:
Layout is almost exactly the same as my X750. You are tired.
There should be a 8 pin to 8 pin mobo power cable in the bag.

I have no idea why they have a 10/12 pin mobo power. Confused me as well.
Click to expand...

Mind blown.
Well that frees up that 12 pin slot!

I knew something had to be off considering there are numerous people who have multi GPU setups with this PSU. I feel better now and can go to bed, ppreciate it!
 
Hey GAF.

Im looking to buy a new PC mainly because i need to upgrade and for BF3.

But is there point buying now as i hear there is a new gen of graphics cards coming out, but are they most likely coming out next year? If so then i may as well buy now as thats whats holding me back...
 
When is Intel releasing it's new enthusiast line of CPU's? I OC'd my Core i7 940 to 4.0Ghz but it is still holding back my SLI setup. I would upgrade to Sandy Bridge, but it doesn't seem worth the money considering what I currently have.
 
FatBaby said:
Hey guys, I seem to be running into a small problem and was looking here to maybe find some help. I just recently had a new computer put together after my video card took a dive and decided to go ahead with a full upgrade rather than just replace the video card. Anyway, this is what I have now:

ASUS Sabertooth P67
Intel i5-2500k
MSI GTX570
8Gig DDR 1600 Ram

Anyway, what has been happening is that when I turn on my computer from a cold boot, it will power up for at least three seconds, turn off, and power up again before booting into Windows. It may do this 2 or 3 times before it will actually boot into Windows.

I spent some time looking around on Google, and things seem to be pointing at the motherboard, but I really can't be sure. I tried one suggested fix I saw, but it didn't seem to work.

After the computer boots up, everything is smooth sailing. It's just when I turn it off for the night, and turn it on when I get home from work is where it seems to have problems. Anyone else have this same motherboard and have problems? I really would like to try and figure this out as it is a pretty nice computer other than the restarting.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Oh I missed this.
Usually with ASUS boards it's just verifying that your clocks and settings are stable. Nothing to worry about.
Heppell said:
Hey GAF.

Im looking to buy a new PC mainly because i need to upgrade and for BF3.

But is there point buying now as i hear there is a new gen of graphics cards coming out, but are they most likely coming out next year? If so then i may as well buy now as thats whats holding me back...
Click to expand...
Very end of this year. A 6950 or 560 Ti is a great value. Same with the GTX 460.
godhandiscen said:
When is Intel releasing it's new enthusiast line of CPU's? I OC'd my Core i7 940 to 4.0Ghz but it is still holding back my SLI setup. I would upgrade to Sandy Bridge, but it doesn't seem worth the money considering what I currently have.
Click to expand...
2011 should be end of this year if everything is on track.
 
Corky said:
Nooooooooo I'm getting the upgrade itch! WHY?! Give me 3D transistors...
Click to expand...
Tri-Gate if it works without hitches is one of those crazy computer happenings.
So gooooooooooooood.
 
I'm trying to find a good headset for my new gaming PC and I don't know what I'm looking for.

I'm wanting to spend $100 and use them for the game audio and game communication.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.
 
Hazaro said:
Tri-Gate if it works without hitches is one of those crazy computer happenings.
So gooooooooooooood.
Click to expand...

This might be asking a question nobody knows the answer to. But since Ivy bridge is going to support 1155 socket, can I assume that I'll be able to utilize an Ivy bridge cpu to it's fullest extent with my current motherboard? ( asus p67 deluxe mobo ))
 
Deadly Joker said:
I'm trying to find a good headset for my new gaming PC and I don't know what I'm looking for.

I'm wanting to spend $100 and use them for the game audio and game communication.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
ATH-AD700 + Zalman Clip mic OR Logitech USB mic

I dont think any headset with a mic combination matches a good pair of headphones. If you fine something let me know.
Corky said:
This might be asking a question nobody knows the answer to. But since Ivy bridge is going to support 1155 socket, can I assume that I'll be able to utilize an Ivy bridge cpu to it's fullest extent with my current motherboard? ( asus p67 deluxe mobo ))
Click to expand...
Presumably.
 
Hey guys & gals, anyone know much about case modding? I'm thinking of buying a new case and modding it into a Protoss (StarCraft) themed case. I'm not looking for anything in particular; if anyone has past experience who I can discuss with, or anyone have any useful tips or recommended cases would be great. Actually, I really need a recommended case, I can't decide!

ALSO! Water cooling; I know nothing about it but I want it as long as it is no louder than fans. Any recommended brands for water cooling? Or links/advice etc.

Thanks for any help my fellow master racers. :)
 
Madrical said:
Hey guys & gals, anyone know much about case modding? I'm thinking of buying a new case and modding it into a Protoss (StarCraft) themed case. I'm not looking for anything in particular; if anyone has past experience who I can discuss with, or anyone have any useful tips or recommended cases would be great. Actually, I really need a recommended case, I can't decide!

ALSO! Water cooling; I know nothing about it but I want it as long as it is no louder than fans. Any recommended brands for water cooling? Or links/advice etc.

Thanks for any help my fellow master racers. :)
Click to expand...
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?101-Computer-Cases

If you have a design and vendor mockup message company reps and see if you can bum any components off them.
Then send me money if you do.
 
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