"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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mandiller said:
I need some help. I've put my computer together and I'm now trying to install Windows 7 onto my SSD (Crucial M4) but its coming up with errors when it gets to the 'expanding files' stage of installation. I've tried it a few times now.

I'm running an Asus P8P67 Pro B3 motherboard. The SSD is connected by a SATAIII cable to the SATAIII port on the motherboard. I can get into the bios fine and select my dvd drive to boot before my SSD then launch the Windows installation from my dvd. It works fine until it gets to the part of the installation that is 'expanding files'. It cuts out at a random percentage each time and comes up with error messages. I'm at work now, so I can't write down the error messages unfortunately, but I also got a blue screen once which said something was corrupt.

Sorry for being a bit vague, but does anyone have an ideas on what I can try?

Hmm. I'll be doing the exact same install very soon so I'm interested to see what this is all about.
 
Le-mo said:
So I tried changing port, plugs and resetting the bios to no avail. The harddrive is still detected in the bios it is just not detected when booting up. Is there any other methods I should try or do I have to get a new harddrive.

Is the error no hard drive detected or no operating system detected (or something to that effect)? If it's no operating system you can try booting from your Win7 DVD and trying a repair install.
 
I got an i7 2600 (non K), can I overlock it a bit with stock cooling? or should I wait?

Let me elaborate a bit

I read in some other forum I can do this in the BIOS

"As long as you have a P67 board, you can overclock the Turbo speeds by +400MHz on a non-K CPU.

Stock:
1 core: 3.8GHz
2 core: 3.7GHz
3 core: 3.6GHz
4 core: 3.5GHz

Overclocked:
1 core: 4.2GHz
2 core: 4.1GHz
3 core: 4.0GHz
4 core: 3.9GHz"

are those speeds safe for stock cooling?
 
Do Microsoft offer downloads of the Windows 7 ISO? I've got a legitimate licence and product key (non-OEM), but I can't find the download link I used previously.
 
legend166 said:
Do Microsoft offer downloads of the Windows 7 ISO? I've got a legitimate licence and product key (non-OEM), but I can't find the download link I used previously.

Just Google. You can find them pretty easily.
 
rw282r.jpg


My buddy wants to build a system that is able to stream Black Ops on xbox at 720p. He is an MLG pro.

This is what a friend of his sent to him. I just want to make sure the system is capable and if there is anyway to possible futureproof him for bf3
 
black_vegeta said:
Maybe I'm 5 years behind but 60fps is fapping material.

Why in the hell would I want 120fps anyways?

>_>

<_<
In a lot of competitive games, they poll input with frames. So the higher FPS you get, the smoother/quicker your input is. In serious games like Q3, CoD, Warsow, CS, 100+ FPS is mandatory.
 
black_vegeta said:
Maybe I'm 5 years behind but 60fps is fapping material.

Why in the hell would I want 120fps anyways?

>_>

<_<

120Hz screens man. Its da new shit. But damn 120fps is hard to achieve.


Broadbandito said:
rw282r.jpg


My buddy wants to build a system that is able to stream Black Ops on xbox at 720p. He is an MLG pro.

This is what a friend of his sent to him. I just want to make sure the system is capable and if there is anyway to possible futureproof him for bf3

Streaming you just need a capture card on any modernish PC. BF3 theres no way in hell a 550ti is going to cut it. If want to play BF3 competitively then get a 580. If you're spending more on your motherboard then your GPU then somethings wrong with your build.

EDIT: Edit also if he want to record and stream BF3 he should invest in an SSD or a second HDD to use as a scratch disk.
 
mkenyon said:
In a lot of competitive games, they poll input with frames. So the higher FPS you get, the smoother/quicker your input is. In serious games like Q3, CoD, Warsow, CS, 100+ FPS is mandatory.

Ahh ok, that's makes sense.
 
mkenyon said:
In a lot of competitive games, they poll input with frames. So the higher FPS you get, the smoother/quicker your input is. In serious games like Q3, CoD, Warsow, CS, 100+ FPS is mandatory.

But no one here is that srs.
 
scogoth said:
120Hz screens man. Its da new shit. But damn 120fps is hard to achieve.




Streaming you just need a capture card on any modernish PC. BF3 theres no way in hell a 550ti is going to cut it. If want to play BF3 competitively then get a 580. If you're spending more on your motherboard then your GPU then somethings wrong with your build.

EDIT: Edit also if he want to record and stream BF3 he should invest in an SSD or a second HDD to use as a scratch disk.


243rtpg.jpg


What about this instead? He is going to be purchasing a black magic intesity pro or the intensity shuttle usb 3.0 for streaming.
 
mkenyon said:
In a lot of competitive games, they poll input with frames. So the higher FPS you get, the smoother/quicker your input is. In serious games like Q3, CoD, Warsow, CS, 100+ FPS is mandatory.

Thing is, if you're that serious about competition, you'll be playing with vsync off, which nullifies any input response advantage a higher refresh display might have 120Hz will feel smoother than 60Hz for sure, but the competitive edge is not that great. Also, taking CS as en example...you can't actually play with anything greater than 100fps. If you enable developer mode with over 100fps, registry becomes unstable.

I do miss the fluidity of CRT gaming at 75Hz+ though. Even 120Hz can't quite replicate that, due to slower than CRT pixel response.
 
larvi said:
Is the error no hard drive detected or no operating system detected (or something to that effect)? If it's no operating system you can try booting from your Win7 DVD and trying a repair install.
The error is no harddrive detected.
 
What is the word on the street about amd hd 7000 series? All I can really gather is approx September release and 28nm cards. The much smaller die size should mean drastically powerful cards right?
 
Broadbandito said:
243rtpg.jpg


What about this instead? He is going to be purchasing a black magic intesity pro or the intensity shuttle usb 3.0 for streaming.
Much better
zulfate said:
so whats a good build for $2000 or maybe a bit under

i am going to re-post this and see if this is a good build (keep in mind i dont know much about computers)

http://secure.newegg.com/Shopping/ShoppingCart.aspx?Submit=view
Link to a public wishlist that you email yourself or post a picture.
You can't just link the cart (As we then see our own)
Spl1nter said:
What is the word on the street about amd hd 7000 series? All I can really gather is approx September release and 28nm cards. The much smaller die size should mean drastically powerful cards right?
Not if they keep the architecture the same. Maybe 10-20% boost from a refresh. OC ability can go either way.
September sounds way too early. TSMC was having troubles and both companies were slated to more 2012 release, but AMD is trying to hit this year so I don't think it'll be as early as September.
 
so im thinking of going with the $600 build but i already have a gpu(gtx 460 1gb)so what should i use the extra money since i already have one

atm besides the comp itself i need a keyboard and windows 7 though luckily i can take advantage of the student deal and im also thinking of getting some headphones and a wired 360 controller as well since im currently using px100s and they're my only good audio source atm

anyway will the $600 build or one with some extra upgrades be fine for this falls games like skyrim bf3 deus ex rage etc?
 
zulfate said:
sorry brothers i dont know how to take pics on a computer
Use the Print Screen button on the keyboard and paste the image into mspaint. Save it then upload it to imgur.com
Nelo Ice said:
so im thinking of going with the $600 build but i already have a gpu(gtx 460 1gb)so what should i use the extra money since i already have one

atm besides the comp itself i need a keyboard and windows 7 though luckily i can take advantage of the student deal and im also thinking of getting some headphones and a wired 360 controller as well since im currently using px100s and they're my only good audio source atm

anyway will the $600 build or one with some extra upgrades be fine for this falls games like skyrim bf3 deus ex rage etc?
If you can stretch it, 2500K and the P67 board. Maybe another $20 on the PSU to that BP550 or an XFX Core 550W
 
Hazaro said:
Use the Print Screen button on the keyboard and paste the image into mspaint. Save it then upload it to imgur.com

If you can stretch it, 2500K and the P67 board. Maybe another $20 on the PSU to that BP550 or an XFX Core 550W

so something like this?

http://i.imgur.com/9rCML.jpg
with shipping it'll cost $633.16



edit:btw any good recommendations for a keyboard?
gah forgot to include a case

well i think i save some $$$ on tax and shipping by buying the cpu and power supply on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017KE3DM/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EBUXHQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
Spl1nter said:
What is the word on the street about amd hd 7000 series? All I can really gather is approx September release and 28nm cards. The much smaller die size should mean drastically powerful cards right?

Unfortunately not in time for BF3 I don't think. Maybe in time for Karkland
 
Is 320 firmware buggy?
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=29243169#post29243169


SSD power loss report updates
http://communities.intel.com/message/131623#131623

Intel is aware of the customer sightings on Intel SSD 320 Series. If you experience any issue with your Intel SSD, please contact your Intel representative or Intel customer support (via web: www.intel.com or phone: www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/contact/phone) . We will provide an update when we have more information.

Alan

Intel's NVM Solutions Group
4nl0U.jpg


Intel confirms "8MB bug" in 320 Series SSDs
Shoppers beware: Intel's 320 Series solid-state drives reportedly ship with a glitch that could drastically reduce the drive's capacity. Flocking to Intel's official discussion board, many users have complained about their spanking new flash drives suddenly dropping from their full capacity to only 8MB, effectively blocking all stored data and making the drive useless. After accumulating numerous pages of user complaints, a member of Intel's Non-Volatile Memory Solutions Group acknowledged the flaw earlier this week.
Although users haven't discovered a way to recover data on a drive that experiences the 8MB bug, some people have been able to start from scratch by wiping the drive's contents with utilities such as HDDErase and Parted Magic. That's probably the last thing you want to hear if you just finished typing a 200-page thesis, so hang tight and Intel might offer some recovery options. This isn't the company's first time combating a serious SSD glitch, having shipped a bugged firmware update in 2009 that bricked many X25-Ms.
 
So, my video card -- an MSI TwinFrozr GeForce 260GTX OC -- is dying on me. It's still under warranty, but if I send it in I'll likely be without a video card for a few weeks, and my computer doesn't have any onboard video. Since I can't go without a computer without dying, is there a passable video card under $60 I could throw in in the meantime? Also, I know GeForce has totally new chipsets now -- what kind of performance would I get from their lowest-price cards compared to the 260? I'd like to stick to Nvidia -- I use my computer for video editing, so I need something with CUDA.
 
I downloaded Just Cause 2 on Steam and everything is ok... besides the cutscenes. The audio is way out of sync. The scenes aren't lagging or anything just the audio goes faster than the cutscene is playing. Any ideas Gaf?
 
zulfate said:

What the hell is going on? Newegg is selling a 212+ for $50 and at Amazon it's $36? I bought mine from Amazon for $25 back in January and it was $30 for a long while at Newegg in the same time frame. Buy.com it's $32 but almost $37 after shipping. Is there a shortage of these currently and did I get in on it at just the right time?
 
InertiaXr said:
What the hell is going on? Newegg is selling a 212+ for $50 and at Amazon it's $36? I bought mine from Amazon for $25 back in January and it was $30 for a long while at Newegg in the same time frame. Buy.com it's $32 but almost $37 after shipping. Is there a shortage of these currently and did I get in on it at just the right time?


yeah i clicked it from the OP, it shows its 39.99 there but i guess it went up lol

is my build ok? any thing you guys recommend?
 
legend166 said:
Hmm. I'll be doing the exact same install very soon so I'm interested to see what this is all about.
Okay I've fixed it. It was something as simple as plugging the SSD into the wrong SATA3 port on my motherboard. The motherboard has four ports, but only two are in the right mode for the SSD. It works fine now. Awesome.
 
·feist· said:
Is 320 firmware buggy?
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=29243169#post29243169


SSD power loss report updates
http://communities.intel.com/message/131623#131623


4nl0U.jpg


Intel confirms "8MB bug" in 320 Series SSDs

Thanks for posting this brah.

My intel ssd actually experienced the "8mb" bug a couple of days ago and i had to do a new Windows 7 install on my secondary hard drive, royally sucks man. At least now i will be able to include this finding to the RMA i am doing.

Here ishoping anyone else with the 320 series ssd does not experience this. If anyone was wondering, i had the 120 gb model.
 
BF3 theres no way in hell a 550ti is going to cut it. If want to play BF3 competitively then get a 580. If you're spending more on your motherboard then your GPU then somethings wrong with your build.
Eww, would a 560TI at least work for BF3? I have a wish list setup but it has a 560 TI and not 580...

Edit: Actually I would like some feedback on my wishlist if people wouldn't mind...

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=11923069

Went with 2600k because I plan on doing extremely CPU heavy things (PS2/Wii emulation, video recording) and I changed the case to something I like far more than stuff in the OP, but it's fairly similar to the $1000 build in the OP.
 
aasoncott said:
So, my video card -- an MSI TwinFrozr GeForce 260GTX OC -- is dying on me. It's still under warranty, but if I send it in I'll likely be without a video card for a few weeks, and my computer doesn't have any onboard video. Since I can't go without a computer without dying, is there a passable video card under $60 I could throw in in the meantime? Also, I know GeForce has totally new chipsets now -- what kind of performance would I get from their lowest-price cards compared to the 260? I'd like to stick to Nvidia -- I use my computer for video editing, so I need something with CUDA.
GTS 450
 
Salacious Crumb said:
Those are just temperature sensors from your case or a fan controller. nothing crucial.
Ok.

Tom Penny said:
I can't see how your cooler can be on right with 90+ temps idle. That's ridiculous. Try another monitoring program to see if it reads the same. It could be a sensor issue.

I really don't know what to tell you, the sink has its four things in the holes and I pushed as hard as possible once they were in and turned the little handles to make sure it stays put. Could the sensors be messed up? I don't understand it. Just ran some games like BFBC2 and Metro 2033 maxed out and my temps were for all four cores from 94-100C =\
 
zazrx said:
Ok.



I really don't know what to tell you, the sink has its four things in the holes and I pushed as hard as possible once they were in and turned the little handles to make sure it stays put. Could the sensors be messed up? I don't understand it. Just ran some games like BFBC2 and Metro 2033 maxed out and my temps were for all four cores from 94-100C =\
You turn them to loosen the heatsink. Reinstall it. Stock cooler right?
 
zazrx said:
Idle

Also noticed these wires and I don't know what they are supposed to be for:

Uhet2.jpg


jSJO8.jpg


Btw these are while installing the new card's drivers:

Ziwfj.jpg
I can't see the pictures that clearly on my phone but those are temp sensors. In the first pic, they look melted (iirc you're supposed to remove the plastic that covers the tip)

What case do you have again? Or are those wires coming from something else?
 
Hazaro said:
You turn them to loosen the heatsink. Reinstall it. Stock cooler right?
The handles have arrows pointing in a direction, I turned them in the opposite direction of the arrow and it tightens but if I turn them towards the arrow they become loose. Yeah it's the stock one.

RS4- said:
I can't see the pictures that clearly on my phone but those are temp sensors. In the first pic, they look melted (iirc you're supposed to remove the plastic that covers the tip)

What case do you have again? Or are those wires coming from something else?
NZXT Guardian 921 mid tower. Don't know where they are coming from.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146050
 
zazrx said:
The handles have arrows pointing in a direction, I turned them in the opposite direction of the arrow and it tightens but if I turn them towards the arrow they become loose. Yeah it's the stock one.


NZXT Guardian 921 mid tower. Don't know where they are coming from.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146050
You keep them in the 'locked' and push them down hard. You don't tighten them.
aasoncott said:
What would the performance difference be between the GTS 450 and GTX 260?
GTS is a touch slower than the core 216 off the top of my head.
iamvin22 said:
Question...is ati now better then nvidia now? i havent built a comp in 3 years.
equal
 
zazrx said:
NZXT Guardian 921 mid tower. Don't know where they are coming from.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146050

Yeah those are temp probes/sensors, you place them near their respective areas and the LCD at the front of your case reads them. I can't say how accurate they are, as the ones from my last NZXT case tried to set my PC on fire.

It's possible that maybe coretemp is reading something from those probes; the LCD that is connected to the probes is powered by a molex connection, I suggest unplugging that (if it is indeed on) and running core temp again.

edit - nm, I don't think coretemp would even read off the case probes anyway
 
Help me, GAF. I have a purchased retail version of Windows 7 Home Premium that I've been using without any problems for over a year, but about a month ago I started receiving error messages (code 8000FFFF) when trying to download/install updates through Windows Update and now Windows is telling me I'm not using Genuine Windows. What the heck is going on? I've googled this and can't find any helpful info at all.
 
Hazaro said:
You keep them in the 'locked' and push them down hard. You don't tighten them.
You're right, I pushed down hard on them and they clicked and now they are really tight. Sadly, the temps are still the same...

EyQ6s.jpg


It's also pretty ridiculous that my CPU, a 2.66ghz processor is running at 1.6ghz =\ damn this sucks.
 
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