TyrantGuardian said:
Presumably you've already tried this: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/946414
Do you still have the DVD case/authorization code? You should call Microsoft.
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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Presumably you've already tried this: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/946414
Do you still have the DVD case/authorization code? You should call Microsoft.
It's probably doesn't have an air tight seal now, but it shouldn't be that high idle even then.zazrx said:You're right, I pushed down hard on them and they clicked and now they are really tight. Sadly, the temps are still the same...
It's also pretty ridiculous that my CPU, a 2.66ghz processor is running at 1.6ghz =\ damn this sucks.
If you have spare paste I would reseat it. You did take the plastic off the thermal pad right? (It's happened before)
i only found thermaltake meka g1 and black widow ultimate. i read a lot of good things about meka g1 but it uses cherry black and i want cherry blue.Hazaro said:
i don't mind paying 130$ but i have to play shipping from NA to Kuwait ( depend on the weight, every lb = 11$).
do you mind weighting your keyboard hazard ?
meka g1 is 90 $ and blackwidow ultimate is 130$ ( local shops).
but i'm aiming for the long run so buying a high quality keyboard might be worth it.
mandiller said:
1. make sure you've got it connected to the Intel SATA III port and not the other (Marvell) ones
2. won't hurt to run some memtest86+ from a USB stick to make sure your memory is working correctly
3. Although the errors come in the expanding fase which is after putting the files on the HDD, are you certain the installation disc is OK ? is it an official disc ? I have experienced some glitches in the past with certain DVD-drives/motherboards and home-burned installation discs. You can install from USB stick to rule that out
4. Have you checked that SSD on another pc for correct installation? Just connect it to any SATA II/III port, and run some apps like HD Tune Pro to check if it's working. You can also update its firmware (assuming there's newer available)
I'm trying to partition my harddrive since it is detected in the bios, but not when booting up and do a clean install of windows to see if that fixes the problem. Problem is I don't know the key to get into System Restore. I tried to reinstall Windows without doing the harddrive partition and it just hangs.n0n44m said:
Le-mo said:
well you can partition it it the Windows installer under advanced options ... there's no option to partition from bios afaik
but if the drive worked before and doesn't now it probably broken :/
do you have another pc you can connect it to ? then run HD Tune Pro or something to check out SMART status, run some tests, maybe backup some data
TyrantGuardian
Member
daviyoung said:
Yeah, I tried that and it didn't help at all. I'm considering just reinstalling everything at this point. I do have my DVD case (I bought it separately) so that's not a problem. I probably just messed something up while trying to troubleshoot Super SF4: Arcade Edition recently. If it still doesn't work after a reinstallation from scratch I probably will have to call support, but I doubt it will be helpful considering it's Microsoft :/
Can anyone suggest a new keyboard for me?
I recently lost my best friend the Logitech G15 (original) due to poor placement of a soda and an over hyper pet.
So I need a new one. Yesterday I picked up the Razer Starcraft II Marauder for $100 at Fry's. (I don't play SCII multiplayer at all) This keyboard feels "cheap" and the LED lights on it seem very dim no matter what I try. It also does not have dedicated arrow keys, and just all around feels cheap for $100.
So I want to try another one. Today, Fry's has another Razer on sale for $100, the Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Mechanical Gaming Keyboard. I could go exchange this out, but I'm still not sure this new one is worth more than $100 for a keyboard. I did like the feel of the mechanical keys when I tested it out yesterday before buying the SCII one.
The other board I considered is the Razer Lycosa Mirror Edition, but when I checked it out in store it felt really cheap and light.
I'm not familiar with keyboards at all, my last keyboard was bought in 2005. Can you guys recommend anything that has value to price? Maybe a cheaper one I am missing that is better? Any help or input would be greatly appreciated.
I recently lost my best friend the Logitech G15 (original) due to poor placement of a soda and an over hyper pet.
So I need a new one. Yesterday I picked up the Razer Starcraft II Marauder for $100 at Fry's. (I don't play SCII multiplayer at all) This keyboard feels "cheap" and the LED lights on it seem very dim no matter what I try. It also does not have dedicated arrow keys, and just all around feels cheap for $100.
So I want to try another one. Today, Fry's has another Razer on sale for $100, the Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Mechanical Gaming Keyboard. I could go exchange this out, but I'm still not sure this new one is worth more than $100 for a keyboard. I did like the feel of the mechanical keys when I tested it out yesterday before buying the SCII one.
The other board I considered is the Razer Lycosa Mirror Edition, but when I checked it out in store it felt really cheap and light.
I'm not familiar with keyboards at all, my last keyboard was bought in 2005. Can you guys recommend anything that has value to price? Maybe a cheaper one I am missing that is better? Any help or input would be greatly appreciated.
kagete said:Time to fap. Still waiting on my Windows 7 to arrive but I will definitely take my sweet time making love to this build.
Ahh sweet success! It booted on the first try with zero incident. I went with an Intel 510 instead of a 320 SSD for this build, so hopefully i'm not at risk of of losing data due to the 8MB issue the 320 series have. The downside is the slightly higher cost as I could have gotten a 160 GB 320 for the price of a 120 GB 510.
Overall, the Fractal R3 is a solid 9/10, simply because I love white. White is a great color but unlike the other color options, this has a red LED for the power. They should have kept it blue to keep the look "cool". The quality is great in most areas, but in some places like the disk caddies, the quality is horrendous. The disk bays are riveted down and can't be removed without drilling/cutting plus the steel isn't rolled or sanded down so you can easily cut your fingers or hand.
Cable management is so-so, because the edge of an ATX mobo is right near the edge of the drive bays, and already partially covers some of the routing holes (which are actually very small and will not accomodate the larger power pins.
The front fan mounts and filters look like they're designed for easy installation and cleaning but are somehow missing any means of snapping in so you're forced to screw them down during installation and possibly unscrew them each time for cleaning.
Honestly, I love my matx NZXT Vulcan case much more. If the vulcan were white, or they sold a white version, I'd probably have kept it or ordered another white one. Too bad this thing is a black hole for dust, sucking and keeping everything inside the case.
Oh and regarding the Seasonic X series modular power supply, the entire package from box to PSU to included cable ties just radiates QUALITY. I was again reminded why I've always bought Seasonic and will continue to do so for all my builds, despite the price premium. That being said, some of the modular cables were about 2 inches too short to route all the way behind the mobo to keep things clean. In a smaller build the lengths would probably be perfect.
My 2500k OC is still sloppy and set to the Asrock mobo's 4.4Ghz recommended default but I'll get to locking down the voltages soon. Total build time was 6 hours including time spent chatting with GAF on mumble, dinner, and waiting for the OS to install.
Deputy Moonman
Member
So I'm trying to figure out why I went with the Lancool PC-K62 over the K63 computer case. I love my case, but the two intake fans at the front of the K63 case is much more ideal for good airflow, and positive pressure air flow at that. Doh! Maybe I'll just buy both, lol.
Deputy Moonman
Member
I opted for Microsoft's ergonomic keyboard and really like it. Comfort beats all imo. I was scared it would be hard to get use to the feel, but it's really not that bad.kagete said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823109148
My new PC is all set up and working. After three days of on again off again installing of parts I'm all done. I got Windows 7 installed today and am busy installing stuff now. This was my first ever full computer build I've ever done myself and I owe a lot of thanks to this thread.
I was running an old Core2Duo 2.6ghz PC and now my new build is:
Fractal R3 black pearl case
i5 2500k
ASUS P8P67 Pro B3
Leadtek GTX 570
Crucial M4 128GB SSD
Samsung F3 1TB HDD x2
Thermaltake Toughpower XT 875W
Hyper 212 Plus cpu cooler
Extra case fan (140mm)
Booting up now is so fast with the SSD. I'm enjoying it so far. I have yet to play any games on it and actually test out how powerful it is but I'm copying over my massive Steam folder now - should be good!
I've been having a look at how the CPU is running and when the computer is idle or I'm doing a bit of web browsing the CPU is 31 degrees Celsius on average. Is that reasonable? What's the maximum temperature I wouldn't really want to pass when it's under heavy load though? I'm going to try playing some games so I'll keep an eye on the temperature. Nothing has been overclocked yet but I'll certainly be looking at doing that after I wrap my head around how to do it and what different settings mean.
I was running an old Core2Duo 2.6ghz PC and now my new build is:
Fractal R3 black pearl case
i5 2500k
ASUS P8P67 Pro B3
Leadtek GTX 570
Crucial M4 128GB SSD
Samsung F3 1TB HDD x2
Thermaltake Toughpower XT 875W
Hyper 212 Plus cpu cooler
Extra case fan (140mm)
Booting up now is so fast with the SSD. I'm enjoying it so far. I have yet to play any games on it and actually test out how powerful it is but I'm copying over my massive Steam folder now - should be good!
I've been having a look at how the CPU is running and when the computer is idle or I'm doing a bit of web browsing the CPU is 31 degrees Celsius on average. Is that reasonable? What's the maximum temperature I wouldn't really want to pass when it's under heavy load though? I'm going to try playing some games so I'll keep an eye on the temperature. Nothing has been overclocked yet but I'll certainly be looking at doing that after I wrap my head around how to do it and what different settings mean.
toastyToast
Member
I've managed to reach 4.9GHz on my i5 2500K at 1.34V. I feel like I've got a decent amount of head room to go for 5.0GHz but I can't get Windows to boot despite giving it an extra .04V.
That 100MHz can't cost that much can it? The chip was still running pretty cool at 4.9
That 100MHz can't cost that much can it? The chip was still running pretty cool at 4.9
toasty_T said:
not unheard of ... (it is usually not so much the absolute clockspeed but a certain multiplier that uses a lot more than the previous one)
4.9 at 1.34v is pretty awesome ... that's with PLL overvoltage enabled I presume?
JAD0109 said:
1) depends ... what is your stock voltage ? that is a nice indication on how good your chip is usually. They all do about 850 but good cooling + higher voltage can improve your overclockability a lot
2) bus speed is never 100.00% accurate, wouldn't worry about it
3) don't know, sounds like you got it setup OK
4) fan? you mean heatsink? no you *always* lose warranty by doing that, but usually when you send it in and put back the stock heatsink they'll never find out (unless they hire some CSI team) ... I think only EVGA officially announced they don't care as long as you place the stock sink back
toastyToast
Member
n0n44m said:
No actually, I turned it off so I could sleep working. I assume I'll need to have it on to get clocks higher at this point, right?
4.9 is pretty great but I really want a nice even number. 5GHz just sounds so delicious.
mclaren777
Member
Do these voltages and temperatures look fine?
(click for larger image)
(click for larger image)
JAD0109 said:
3) FRAPS will lock your frame rate to the the recording fps or half the recording fps. Set it to 60fps or higher if you can handle those frame rates in your games. Remember FRAPS hits your CPU hard because it is real time transcoding the video. You can set it to lossless recording to lower the cpu usage but the file sizes will be huge.
mclaren777 said:
Those look great.
Azwethinkweiz
Member
xXJonoXx said:
Why don't you get the upgrade? The G510 I think it's called.
zazrx said:You're right, I pushed down hard on them and they clicked and now they are really tight. Sadly, the temps are still the same...
It's also pretty ridiculous that my CPU, a 2.66ghz processor is running at 1.6ghz =\ damn this sucks.
K processors don't run full speed until they are doing something to put them under load. Mines 1.6 right now and now 4.4 ghz.
Azwethinkweiz said:
I dunno, the Logitech's feel cheap now for reason, probably because the original G15 had that metal border and the flip up LCD screen that was white. I decided to take the advice of many and get the Blackwidow Ultimate and see how it works. Never owned a mechanical keyboard before. Gonna try it out as soon as I get home from Harry Potter!
Futurevoid
Member
I like mine well enough outside of the fact the the freaking letters are starting to rub off. I don't have the ultimate version though. Still, pretty ridiculous for an $80 keyboard considering I've only had the thing for about a month now.
zulfate said:
Any recent case from the known brands in that price range will work out fine. HAFs have that industrial look going for them that I really don't like, and high-airflow cases are pretty common, and you will have plenty of options either way.
I'm new to using an SSD and so far, I'm not impressed. It's a marginal upgrade, especially from a cost perspective. Heck, it's more expensive than my GPU. My opinion might change when the newer games like Diablo3 and Guildwars2 come out and I get to install them on the SSD.
Well put together my new pc.
Really hate that crunching sound when you clamp down the cpu. UGH. Anyway the Antec Kuhler is working quite nicely. Much quieter than my previous system.
Speaking of which, what would be a good cheap video card that pairs well with a q9300?(overclocked to 3Ghz) I'm thinking of taking it back to my mums place so I've got something decent to play with.
Really hate that crunching sound when you clamp down the cpu. UGH. Anyway the Antec Kuhler is working quite nicely. Much quieter than my previous system.
Speaking of which, what would be a good cheap video card that pairs well with a q9300?(overclocked to 3Ghz) I'm thinking of taking it back to my mums place so I've got something decent to play with.
zulfate said:
Think on it a little. Do a google for how to install an SSD in an existing PC. It's not going to be pretty. My thinking is, if you have the money for the SSD, buy it now when you're assembling your PC from scratch. Once you have a stable PC a couple of months down the road with Steam installed and some music and pictures saved, upgrading to an SSD isn't going to be as easy as connecting the Sata/power and calling it a day.
Others may have different opinions but you're at the point where you're looking at enthusiast mobos, 1000w PSUs, and a GTX580. You want the best performance, and you can afford it too. Why not buy the SSD?
Futurevoid
Member
Interesting, I'm on the opposite end of the spectrum. I'm quite impressed with how fast the 510 is for me. Initially it felt marginal but that was mainly because I had not switched my BIOS over to AHCI. Once I did that, the speed increase was readily apparent on boot up times and just general use and multi-tasking programs, etc.kagete said:
Flying_Phoenix
Banned
zulfate said:
thanks, lol
What I'd definitely change:
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Upgrade is just that, an upgrade. As in if you do not have a previous Windows installed, it will not update. Think of trying to run an expansion pack without having the core game installed. What you need is the OEM edition (don't worry its cheaper). Its on sale no too, and yes you want the 64-bit version. If your brother has a Windows Vista or XP OEM CD lying around than this isn't a problem, if not then this is mandatory.
What I'd might change:
That ASRock motherboard seems a bit overkill. Maybe you should look at ASUS's lineup (the parent company as well as the "official brand".
Intel is by far the most reliable SSD manufacturer. And SSD in a high-end computer today is mandatory. Its half the "next-generation experience". That being said if you want to pony up an extra hundred dollars you can grab a SSD big enough to put some of your games on on Steam or similar services. You will be shocked at how significant load times are cut at times. Just something to think about.
Other than that everything looks great! Great job!
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