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[aasoncott]

I opted for Microsoft's ergonomic keyboard and really like it. Comfort beats all imo. I was scared it would be hard to get use to the feel, but it's really not that bad.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823109148

I bought this keyboard when I was doing a lot of programming and it essentially cured my carpal tunnel. No joke. The thing is a miracle, especially when paired with the Natural Wireless Laser Mouse.

I don't think I'd ever use the keyboard for gaming, though.

 

[Smokey]

yeah that is what i was thinking "would i really know the difference?" maybe i should drop the SSD until later down the road...i dont know lol

Yes. Yes you will. If you're going for a high end mchine, not including a SSD doesn't make any sense.

 

[mike23]

Do you have a fan controller with nobs to change the fan speed? Maybe the fan isn't turning up high enough for the cpu.

Can you tell if your cpu fan is running at full speed when under load? It should be pretty loud if you have the case open.

 

[Manos: The Hans of Fate]

Can anyone recommend a good "lap" table to keep a mouse and keyboard on?

Think of something like a try that goes across a chair. Forget big comfy couch, I've got big comfy leather reclining chair. I'll post some pics tonight. Granted the case will be moving between my bedroom and out in the living room. Right now I'm just using a cheap Ikea table, but it's not really long enough for the mouse and keyboard to be side by side, but it's fine otherwise for browsing.

I'm tempted to setup my old external SB Extigty for simply DD 5.1 (it's so damn old it never did DTS, DD EX, and no HD stuff). The only problem is I don't have an optical input so I need an SPDIF cable. However, I'm just wondering if I should wait, since I honestly enjoy my gaming headset a lot.

I still can't get the crappy back plate on and I forgot to hook up the front USBs (back 4 work fine), but otherwise it's work great!

One last question though, does a wireless mouse have poor input response when gaming, do I really need anything beyond a standard three button mouse. I am working on getting Motion in Joy also setup to emulate a 360 controller, since for certain games it's optimal for controllers.

I may want to try my wireless keyboard as the five dollar keyboard is actually pretty good, but I'm more used to the positioning on my older one. Same question about lag though. It's an old set though a Logictech Wireless Mouse and Keyboard that I got back in high school (so nearly a decade ago), so it may have issues newer ones don't.

Oh I tried the Crysis 1 demo all maxed out (though only on the small monitor since it was before I moved it), and it was crazy seeing high quality like you would see on an HD LP on YouTube, but then actually being able to play it. Playing World in Conflict even though an older game was silky smooth framerates was great too.

I just wanted to thank everyone so much for their help! I can't wait to post some pictures.

 

[EatChildren]

Holy moly I just discovered that, after having my computer since March, my supplier sent me the wrong RAM.

What I originally ordered:
G.Skill Ripjaws F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM (2x2GB) DDR3
1333MHz 8-8-8-24-2N

What I actually got:
G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL8D-4GBRM (2x2GB) DDR3
1600MHz 8-8-8-24-2N

This means the RAM voltage and settings have been completely wrong in the BIOS. What the fuuuck. But now here's my actual question.

On all websites I can find, including the official G.Skill website, my modules are rated at 1.65v. Yet on the modules themselves the sticker rates them at 1.6v.

EDIT: Scratch that, official website says 1.6v.

When I set my voltage, who do I believe? The sticker, or the websites?

 

[zulfate]

What I'd definitely change:

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Upgrade is just that, an upgrade. As in if you do not have a previous Windows installed, it will not update. Think of trying to run an expansion pack without having the core game installed. What you need is the OEM edition (don't worry its cheaper). Its on sale no too, and yes you want the 64-bit version. If your brother has a Windows Vista or XP OEM CD lying around than this isn't a problem, if not then this is mandatory.

What I'd might change:

That ASRock motherboard seems a bit overkill. Maybe you should look at ASUS's lineup (the parent company as well as the "official brand".

Intel is by far the most reliable SSD manufacturer. And SSD in a high-end computer today is mandatory. Its half the "next-generation experience". That being said if you want to pony up an extra hundred dollars you can grab a SSD big enough to put some of your games on on Steam or similar services. You will be shocked at how significant load times are cut at times. Just something to think about.


Other than that everything looks great! Great job!

ok cool when i get home from work i will make the changes, i was confused about that OEM thing...so ill change motherboards, windows, and the powersupply...do i need anything else?

 

[n0n44m]

Holy moly I just discovered that, after having my computer since March, my supplier sent me the wrong RAM.

What I originally ordered:
G.Skill Ripjaws F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM (2x2GB) DDR3
1333MHz 8-8-8-24-2N

What I actually got:
G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL8D-4GBRM (2x2GB) DDR3
1600MHz 8-8-8-24-2N

This means the RAM voltage and settings have been completely wrong in the BIOS. What the fuuuck. But now here's my actual question.

On all websites I can find, including the official G.Skill website, my modules are rated at 1.65v. Yet on the modules themselves the sticker rates them at 1.6v.

When I set my voltage, who do I believe? The sticker, or the websites?

download, install & run CPU-Z

go to the tab SPD

select the correct memory slot and check what the four voltages are at the bottom

those are the voltages programmed there by the manufacturer, so they should at least give a clue

 

[LordCanti]

ok cool when i get home from work i will make the changes, i was confused about that OEM thing...so ill change motherboards, windows, and the powersupply...do i need anything else?

You said you may want to SLI later, right? If so, keep the 1000w PSU. Other than that, your build is looking good. You could save $10-$20 by getting the Coolermaster Hyper 212 from Amazon instead of Newegg, but I can understand if you want to get everything from one supplier.

Turn that computer off. It's close to the thermal limit at idle, even after having clocked itself down. Something is seriously off, and I'm starting to think it is a complete sensor malfunction, unless you've improperly installed the heatsink again.

The only thing left to try is a tower cooler. If the temps still read high, the sensors in the chip may very well be borked. If they are, a new CPU may be the only fix. We'll cross that bridge when we come to it, but for now, you should try, in this order:

1. Make sure that the heatsink is seated properly. It most likely is if you got all the pins in the holes and popped them down (it would be wiggling at the touch if it were loose) but it is better to be safe than sorry.

2. Update Motherboard BIOS by following instructions provided by manufacturer (if there is an update).

3. If that doesn't fix it, try a tower cooler.

 

[kagete]

Holy moly I just discovered that, after having my computer since March, my supplier sent me the wrong RAM.

What I originally ordered:
G.Skill Ripjaws F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM (2x2GB) DDR3
1333MHz 8-8-8-24-2N

What I actually got:
G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL8D-4GBRM (2x2GB) DDR3
1600MHz 8-8-8-24-2N

This means the RAM voltage and settings have been completely wrong in the BIOS. What the fuuuck. But now here's my actual question.

On all websites I can find, including the official G.Skill website, my modules are rated at 1.65v. Yet on the modules themselves the sticker rates them at 1.6v.

EDIT: Scratch that, official website says 1.6v.

When I set my voltage, who do I believe? The sticker, or the websites?

Congrats, you actually got better RAM than what your ordered. Set it to the sticker (1.6), but if you can somehow get it to run at the lowest possible voltage and remain stable then that would be ideal.

Mobo, PSU, existing OC on the CPU could all affect how much voltage your ram needs, don't be surprised of 1.65 is necessary. At the same time, if they were running fine all this time, why worry?

 

[mkenyon]

Higher Voltage memory is rated that way for overclocking memory. You can set it to lower than what it is rated for, as long as it's working.

 

[Zapages]

Well my computer's processor overheated and died. :*(

I need to buy a new computer and I don't want to build it as I will break it.

 

[scogoth]

Well my computer's processor overheated and died. :*(

I need to buy a new computer and I don't want to build it as I will break it.

=(

To zazrx, how to apply thermal paste. Also read the manual that came with your CPU, it will tell you how to install the heat sink properly. Those temps are dangerously high, you should be no more then ~80C at full load on a 920 with OC and a hot environment. A properly installed 920, no OC, stock fan, 20C ambient will be 60-70 at full load. I'm running a 930 at 4Ghz with a NH-D14 at <60C at full load.

 

[zulfate]

You said you may want to SLI later, right? If so, keep the 1000w PSU. Other than that, your build is looking good. You could save $10-$20 by getting the Coolermaster Hyper 212 from Amazon instead of Newegg, but I can understand if you want to get everything from one supplier.

yeah i think ill just get it all in one place, i just found out i can just drive there and pick up and not waste money on shipping, there like 15 minute drive from me lol

thanks guys i owe you guys alot, ill let you know when i start building it....but i am really scared, this thread seems like there alot going wrong with building it.

 

[black_vegeta]

yeah i think ill just get it all in one place, i just found out i can just drive there and pick up and not waste money on shipping, there like 15 minute drive from me lol

thanks guys i owe you guys alot, ill let you know when i start building it....but i am really scared, this thread seems like there alot going wrong with building it.

All part of the process bro. You may have some problems, you may not. Myself, I had no problems with any of my parts or building it for that matter. This was my first build and it was an easy process. I read this thread daily and saw others encounter problems but there's alot of individuals here that are willing to help you the best they can. There're a number of guides out there that can give you a visual walkthrough(the TESTED vids in the OP). Also, do yourself a favor and read dat motherboard manual. Get to know your motherboard inside and out.

Most important thing is too have fun while building.

Edit: Nice addition info Soka.

 

[RumblingRosco]

yeah i think ill just get it all in one place, i just found out i can just drive there and pick up and not waste money on shipping, there like 15 minute drive from me lol

thanks guys i owe you guys alot, ill let you know when i start building it....but i am really scared, this thread seems like there alot going wrong with building it.

In addition to what black_vegeta said, it's also important to have a nice work space. Do what you can to have a nice, flat, stable surface free of excess clutter. Have a couple little dishes setup so you can put miscellaneous screws or trash into. Be in a well lit area and maybe have a flashlight handy if the lighting isn't so great. Take breaks and get a snack... just don't leave the food (or drink especially) sitting within spill distance of any of your components!

 

[Lemonte]

I'm thinking of upgrading my pc, but I really don't know much about pc components. My current setup is little over 2-years-old.

AMD Phenom II X4 940 3.01 GHz
nVidia GeForce GTX 260
ASUS M3A78 PRO
Corsair xtreme performance XMS2 4gb DDR2 800 MHz
Corsair VX 550w power supply
Antec 300 case
500gb sata hdd 7200rpm
200gb sata hdd 7200rpm
windows vista 32bit

As I said I don't know much about components so I was thinking of upgrading the obvious ones which are ram and operating system. So if I upgrade graphics card too is CPU going to be a bottle neck? Or should I just build new pc from the scratch.

 

[Manos: The Hans of Fate]

So any suggestions for helping make "big ass comfy recliner leather chair" gaming a bit easier (see my post a couple of posts back)?

 

[RumblingRosco]

I'm thinking of upgrading my pc, but I really don't know much about pc components. My current setup is little over 2-years-old.

AMD Phenom II X4 940 3.01 GHz
nVidia GeForce GTX 260
ASUS M3A78 PRO
Corsair xtreme performance XMS2 4gb DDR2 800 MHz
Corsair VX 550w power supply
Antec 300 case
500gb sata hdd 7200rpm
200gb sata hdd 7200rpm
windows vista 32bit

As I said I don't know much about components so I was thinking of upgrading the obvious ones which are ram and operating system. So if I upgrade graphics card too is CPU going to be a bottle neck? Or should I just build new pc from the scratch.

Well, the good news is, there's no reason you couldn't keep both HDDs, your case, and your PSU if you wanted to build a new PC. Your mobo supports AM2, so you wouldn't be able to get the newest AMD CPUs if you were to simply upgrade. Your RAM is fine as far as capacity, but is limited by being DDR2 instead of DDR3. You'll probably need to fill out the OP for us to give you a better idea, most notably, what you're willing to spend and what your needs/wants are.

 

[Curufinwe]

Does anyone here use a Logitech mouse with their Setpoint software?

I've been doing so for four years, and every so often all the key bindings I have set up for games just vanish. Last night I loaded up Fear for the first time in ages, and my key bindings of G = thumb button, 8 = left scroll and 9 = right scroll weren't there anymore.

It only took a couple of minutes to reapply them, but it was still quite annoying. I got into a game of Fear multiplayer, and wasn't able to zoom or throw a grenade with my mouse buttons.

 

[kagete]

Does anyone here use a Logitech mouse with their Setpoint software?

I've been doing so for four years, and every so often all the key bindings I have set up for games just vanish. Last night I loaded up Fear for the first time in ages, and my key bindings of G = thumb button, 8 = left scroll and 9 = right scroll weren't there anymore.

It only took a couple of minutes to reapply them, but it was still quite annoying. I got into a game of Fear multiplayer, and wasn't able to zoom or throw a grenade with my mouse buttons.

I have this with a g9x and noticed it happen at least once when I cleaned my case of dust and had to unplug all my cables. When i plugged my mouse back in, Windows acted like it was the first time I've ever used my mouse and even redownloaded drivers.

 

[terrdactycalsrock]

lets talk about cpu heating for a moment. is there a hard and fast rule that says something like for every .whatever ( I'm extremely bad at math. sorry) you overclock you gain 2% more heat?

 

[Curufinwe]

My G5 is four years old and I think it might be time to take it to work with me and get a new one for home. Going by the Amazon bestsellers I'm liking the look of this old MS Sidewinder mouse, and the lack of a tilting scroll wheel doesn't bother me.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TTQFIS/?tag=neogaf0e-20

For the first couple of years the middle mouse button on my G5 was so stiff that I couldn't use it in games, so in Fear I had left scroll = zoom and right scroll = slow-mo, with the middle button unassigned. But that was the only place I really used the horizontal scrolling.

 

[mkenyon]

I'm thinking of upgrading my pc, but I really don't know much about pc components. My current setup is little over 2-years-old.

AMD Phenom II X4 940 3.01 GHz
nVidia GeForce GTX 260
ASUS M3A78 PRO
Corsair xtreme performance XMS2 4gb DDR2 800 MHz
Corsair VX 550w power supply
Antec 300 case
500gb sata hdd 7200rpm
200gb sata hdd 7200rpm
windows vista 32bit

As I said I don't know much about components so I was thinking of upgrading the obvious ones which are ram and operating system. So if I upgrade graphics card too is CPU going to be a bottle neck? Or should I just build new pc from the scratch.

You could do a two step upgrade. Get a 990FX mobo, DDR3 memory, and a GPU of your choice, then grab a bulldozer CPU when they release. That will significantly lessen the blow of the total upgrade while getting a nice boost to hold you over until the new procs arrive.

lets talk about cpu heating for a moment. is there a hard and fast rule that says something like for every .whatever ( I'm extremely bad at math. sorry) you overclock you gain 2% more heat?

No.

 

[LogicStep]

Do you have a fan controller with nobs to change the fan speed? Maybe the fan isn't turning up high enough for the cpu.

Can you tell if your cpu fan is running at full speed when under load? It should be pretty loud if you have the case open.

Don't really know there there are nobs or fan controller. It's the stock heatsink but I don't know. The fan, I guess isn't running full speed since it's always dead silent. I have the case open right now. Even when it gets to those sky high temps it's silent. Maybe I need a new heatsink that will work properly?

Turn that computer off. It's close to the thermal limit at idle, even after having clocked itself down. Something is seriously off, and I'm starting to think it is a complete sensor malfunction, unless you've improperly installed the heatsink again.

The only thing left to try is a tower cooler. If the temps still read high, the sensors in the chip may very well be borked. If they are, a new CPU may be the only fix. We'll cross that bridge when we come to it, but for now, you should try, in this order:

1. Make sure that the heatsink is seated properly. It most likely is if you got all the pins in the holes and popped them down (it would be wiggling at the touch if it were loose) but it is better to be safe than sorry.

2. Update Motherboard BIOS by following instructions provided by manufacturer (if there is an update).

3. If that doesn't fix it, try a tower cooler.

1. I'm 99% sure the heatsink is on correctly, I pushed down real hard and all four clicked hard. It won't move when touched at all.

2. The BIOS is at the newest version, I just checked the website.

3. What is that? A type of heatsink? Which one would you recommend?

 

[mkenyon]

The Coolermaster Hyper 212+ is the defacto choice. It can be kind of a pain to install, and if you're scared of that sort of thing, you could grab a simple cooler like the Scythe Shuriken/Big Shuriken.

 

[mike23]

Don't really know there there are nobs or fan controller. It's the stock heatsink but I don't know. The fan, I guess isn't running full speed since it's always dead silent. I have the case open right now. Even when it gets to those sky high temps it's silent. Maybe I need a new heatsink that will work properly?



1. I'm 99% sure the heatsink is on correctly, I pushed down real hard and all four clicked hard. It won't move when touched at all.

2. The BIOS is at the newest version, I just checked the website.

3. What is that? A type of heatsink? Which one would you recommend?

If your fan isn't spinning, that's your problem right there. The cpu fan should never stop spinning. Check to make sure that the cpu fan is plugged into the cpu_fan power plug near the cpu

 

[mkenyon]

If your fan isn't spinning, that's your problem right there. The cpu fan should never stop spinning. Check to make sure that the cpu fan is plugged into the cpu_fan power plug near the cpu

His fan is spinning, he's just saying that he doesn't think it's spinning up all the way.

 

[LogicStep]

The Coolermaster Hyper 212+ is the defacto choice. It can be kind of a pain to install, and if you're scared of that sort of thing, you could grab a simple cooler like the Scythe Shuriken/Big Shuriken.

I see, ok well I'll go to the store see if they have any of those.

His fan is spinning, he's just saying that he doesn't think it's spinning up all the way.

Yeah, it's spinning. Just not full speed. I put a regular fan, like a room fan or whatever, shooting straight into the case and the temps have not changed a bit.

 

[mkenyon]

I see, ok well I'll go to the store see if they have any of those.



Yeah, it's spinning. Just not full speed. I put a regular fan, like a room fan or whatever, shooting straight into the case and the temps have not changed a bit.

Really, any heatsink from Scythe, Noctua, Corsair, Thermalright, or Coolermaster ought to do it. I can't remember if you've said previously, but what kind of CPU do you have? I'f i'm not mistaken, it was a C2Q or C2D. If that is indeed the case, look for something that has compatibility with LGA775.

 

[Appleman]

I see, ok well I'll go to the store see if they have any of those.



Yeah, it's spinning. Just not full speed. I put a regular fan, like a room fan or whatever, shooting straight into the case and the temps have not changed a bit.

I'm a little late to the party on this one, but the CPU fan is confirmed to be plugged in to the correct CPU_FAN controller on the motherboard, also what about fan profile in the BIOS?

 

[Nelo Ice]

hows this build? still need a keyboard and theres a trick to using the windows 7 student upgrade edition on a new build right? btw didnt include a gpu since i have a gtx 460 1gb
included headphones cuz i only have $20 logitech speakers or px100s as my audio source the mic cuz i need one now that i wont be using my laptops built in webcam and the controller cuz my 360 wireless receiver broke

also have some amazon gcs lying around that i was going to use on this falls games for consoles but im going to guess theyre better used towards new headphones and pc parts lol

heres a direct link to the images since i fail at resizing
http://i.imgur.com/1qRrV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ztgpq.jpg

 

[mike23]

I see, ok well I'll go to the store see if they have any of those.



Yeah, it's spinning. Just not full speed. I put a regular fan, like a room fan or whatever, shooting straight into the case and the temps have not changed a bit.

I think it's probably a fan controller then. Follow those wires. Do they lead to something mounted in the front of your case? Something is keeping your fan from spinning full speed.

Is the fan plugged into the motherboard or does that wire run somewhere else? Try plugging it into the motherboard if it isn't.

 

[Appleman]

I think it's probably a fan controller then. Follow those wires. Do they lead to something mounted in the front of your case? Something is keeping your fan from spinning full speed.

Is the fan plugged into the motherboard or does that wire run somewhere else? Try plugging it into the motherboard if it isn't.

Yep, and if it's a fan controller issue, a new HSF won't solve much (if the fan is stull going to be stuck at low RPM).

 

[mkenyon]

Yep, and if it's a fan controller issue, a new HSF won't solve much (if the fan is stull going to be stuck at low RPM).

That's not true, that's like 1/2 the reason why you go with a tower cooler. They stay at low speeds since the sink itself dissipates heat more efficiently.

Though, in previous posts, I believe he has said the cable is plugged directly into the mobo.

 

[scogoth]

Yep, and if it's a fan controller issue, a new HSF won't solve much (if the fan is stull going to be stuck at low RPM).

Even with the fan barely moving on a stock heatsink, an i7-920 at stock speeds wouldn't be 70C at idle.

 

[mike23]

That's not true, that's like 1/2 the reason why you go with a tower cooler. They stay at low speeds since the sink itself dissipates heat more efficiently.

Though, in previous posts, I believe he has said the cable is plugged directly into the mobo.

Yeah, but under load it'll still be at 90C if it can't turn up to max.

 

[Appleman]

That's not true, that's like 1/2 the reason why you go with a tower cooler. They stay at low speeds since the sink itself dissipates heat more efficiently.

Though, in previous posts, I believe he has said the cable is plugged directly into the mobo.

What I meant was that it would help, of course, but wouldn't solve whatever that actual problem is, which seems to be the fan controller.

 

[LordCanti]

Even with the fan barely moving on a stock heatsink, an i7-920 at stock speeds wouldn't be 70C at idle.

This is why I'm thinking it's a sensor issue. If it is, nothing short of a new CPU would fix it. Unless there is a setting in the bios to tell it to completely ignore the sensor, but that would mean a quick and fiery death to the CPU if it wasn't just a sensor malfunction.

If the tower cooler doesn't fix it, there aren't a whole lot of options left.

 

[black_vegeta]

Just to make sure my cpu temps are ok...

Mid to high 30's during idle.

Mid to high 60's during full load.

I'm running @4.5Ghz

Are those ok?

 

[Prophet Steve]

Just to make sure my cpu temps are ok...

Mid to high 30's during idle.

Mid to high 60's during full load.

I'm running @4.5Ghz

Are those ok?

Yes, with those type of results I'm starting to think something is wrong with mine. With almost 80 @ 4.3 loaded, with non stock cooler. Note that I have clocked it below that now.

 

[scogoth]

Yes, with those type of results I'm starting to think something is wrong with mine. With almost 75 @ 4.3 loaded, with non stock cooler.

Whats your voltage?

 

[Prophet Steve]

Whats your voltage?

Oh yeah, I should have mentioned that, pretty high to keep it stable. Right now I have it at 4.2 ghz and maximum of 75 degrees and the lowest voltage to keep it stable is 1.248 (according to cpuz), but I believe it is something different in the bios. Do I have a setting wrong or something?

 

[scogoth]

Oh yeah, I should have mentioned that, pretty high to keep it stable. Right now I have it at 4.2 ghz and maximum of 75 degrees and the lowest voltage to keep it stable is 1.248 (according to cpuz), but I believe it is something different in the bios. Do I have a setting wrong or something?

Are you using a sandy bridge cpu? You can bump it up to 1.3+

 

[LogicStep]

Really, any heatsink from Scythe, Noctua, Corsair, Thermalright, or Coolermaster ought to do it. I can't remember if you've said previously, but what kind of CPU do you have? I'f i'm not mistaken, it was a C2Q or C2D. If that is indeed the case, look for something that has compatibility with LGA775.

An i7 920

I'm a little late to the party on this one, but the CPU fan is confirmed to be plugged in to the correct CPU_FAN controller on the motherboard, also what about fan profile in the BIOS?

It's connected to the CPU_FAN spot on the motherboard that's right above where the CPU is.

This is all I could find under the BIOS:

Now I noticed the other fans labeled as System Fan1 and 2 and Power fan are at 0 but I don't understand which fans are those. My case has 1 fan in the back by the CPU and one in the side panel. The power fan I don't know what it is.

I think it's probably a fan controller then. Follow those wires. Do they lead to something mounted in the front of your case? Something is keeping your fan from spinning full speed.

Is the fan plugged into the motherboard or does that wire run somewhere else? Try plugging it into the motherboard if it isn't.

If the wires you are talking about are the ones that come out of the heatsink, then yeah they are plugged in into the motherboard on the CPU_FAN plug.


Also, here is the temps while running Crysis 2 maxed out. I did this to see if the speed would go up like someone mentioned.

At least the speed went up to what it's supposed to but I rather not play or do much with the temps this high. Would running at these temps for a long time damage the CPU? I'm pretty sure they have always been this high but I always thought they were normal for this processor, I know stupid on my part.

 

[Doodlebug]

After having issues with my Corsair CX500, I decided to just go for an Antec BP550 instead. Everything's up and running now, and I'm currently installing Windows updates.

Thanks to everyone who shares their knowledge here. I probably wouldn't have a (working) PC right now without it.

I'll be back once I get to the testing stage.

 

[Complistic]

All right, I'm looking to upgrade my gtx260 to a gtx 560. I've narrowed it down to two.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130604 - $229
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130661 - $194

Basically I'm willing to spend the extra $35 IF you guys think the TI is that much better. Also the regular one is superclocked, does that mean it'll be a little more unstable than the TI or not? I'm open to all thoughts. If you think there's a better card around what I'm looking at here, by all means don't hold back.

I think this is the right thread for this.

 

[n0n44m]

An i7 920

It's connected to the CPU_FAN spot on the motherboard that's right above where the CPU is.

This is all I could find under the BIOS:

Now I noticed the other fans labeled as System Fan1 and 2 and Power fan are at 0 but I don't understand which fans are those. My case has 1 fan in the back by the CPU and one in the side panel. The power fan I don't know what it is.

If the wires you are talking about are the ones that come out of the heatsink, then yeah they are plugged in into the motherboard on the CPU_FAN plug.

Also, here is the temps while running Crysis 2 maxed out. I did this to see if the speed would go up like someone mentioned.

At least the speed went up to what it's supposed to but I rather not play or do much with the temps this high. Would running at these temps for a long time damage the CPU? I'm pretty sure they have always been this high but I always thought they were normal for this processor, I know stupid on my part.

set SMART fan control to disabled, that should help the fan go full speed

but still your heatsink simply isn't properly attached/installed...

Core Temp = internal cpu sensors, they got much too hot
bios cpu temp = motherboard cpu sensor which is right beneath the socket AFAIK , gets much too hot

doubt all 5(!) sensors are malfunctioning

only issue I can think of that is not heatsink-installation related would be a production fault which has caused your CPU's heatspreader to be improperly installed somehow, but that would be a first in my book

as far as damage goes, the CPU automatically throttles itself to avoid damage which is why you see the colored temperatures in Core Temp

 

[Prophet Steve]

Are you using a sandy bridge cpu? You can bump it up to 1.3+

It's the temperature I'm worried about. I use a Scythe Mugen 2 as CPU cooler and when I bump up the voltage I can get it to 4.3. But the temperature after some time loaded gets over 80 and I don't want that. I'm pretty sure the cooler is attached correctly so I'm thinking that I have a relatively bad CPU (I'm still pleased with the performance though).

EDIT: To answer your question, yes, a 2500k.

 

[Darkone]

I need help on whta MOBO to choose for this spec:

Core i5-2500K
GTX560 Ti
4GB Ram memory

Would like to have both Crossfire & SLI support, USB3, SATA3.

Thanks

 

[DR3AM]

Can I get a good mobo, cpu, power supply and case for around $300-$375???