"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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RS4- said:
I missed out when they had the 27" Asus for only 199 up here compared to the regular $340 or so over the weekend.

Part of me is still unsure if I want to do eyefinity just for bf3 or just get one good TN 27" for gaming and one good IPS display for photo and video work.

The Dell 2711, I'd only be paying 600 or so, but its still a lot and thankfully not as much as the Apple cinema displays lol.

Will do more research.

Not too fond of buying a 27" Hanns-g which I think is running for $240 after taxes.

Whatever you do, if you plan on getting fully into bf3 (multiplayer at least) I would recommend you find one with 2ms response time which is almost completely unnoticeable to anyone but the jedis out there.
 
Here's what I think I will be going with in the near future (thanks work for the bonus before I'm leaving you!!!)

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K
MOBO: ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3)
GPU: GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit
RAM: G.SKILL 4GB DDR3 1333 (though thinking about going
PSU: CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W
CASE: ???
HDD: I have a newer SDD and HDD I'll be using from my current PC.
DISPLAY: Will go 2x ASUS VH236H Black 23" 2ms as recommended by Stump some time ago.

http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=20858207

I dropped down to the EVGA GeForce GTX 460 from the "damn capable" build to keep the cost 'low' for now as this card is a MAJOR step up from what I'm currently running. As with the other parts of the build I can upgrade quite easily which will keep me from having to do this in the next few years (completely rebuilding).

A friend turned me on to the GeForce 560 putting me in the 'current gen' and for an overall +$65 increase (still putting me sub $800 for the build w/o case) I don't think it's a bad upgrade.

Still haven't decided on a case yet. I'm looking for something that will have good cable management but haven't found what I'm looking for.
 
Anyone know why NewEgg dropped Fractal Design Define R3 cases? I bought one a while ago from there and wanted to get another (great case). I can't seem to find a Black one in the US that isn't way overpriced.
 
MrTroubleMaker said:
Anyone know why NewEgg dropped Fractal Design Define R3 cases? I bought one a while ago from there and wanted to get another (great case). I can't seem to find a Black one in the US that isn't way overpriced.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352002

Out of stock and/or deactivated. The same goes for the rest of Fractal Design's cases, so maybe Newegg decided to drop them? It's kind of odd if so, since they seemed to be gaining in popularity.
 
Tallshortman said:
Whatever you do, if you plan on getting fully into bf3 (multiplayer at least) I would recommend you find one with 2ms response time which is almost completely unnoticeable to anyone but the jedis out there.

I don't notice the lag, even when I play Street Fighter and such when it's hooked up to my 360 using various LCD monitor and tvs. Then again, a lot of that stuff has been muscle memory and reaction for years.

I think I'd be ok with something up to 8ms lol.

If I settle for a 27" that still does 1080, I'll just get the 24"s to save extra money.

edit -
ok there's this hanns-g 27" http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824254052 ($270 shipped)
or I get this: LG W2442PA-BF 24" http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824005130CVF (< $210 after taxes)

If I end up getting a Dell 24" it'd be $300-350.
 
Newegg just sent a 15% off Crucial SSDs coupon. It was like they knew I was looking at them...so i bit and bought the 128gig for $197.

Went in to this build thinking i'd spend about $750. Ended up spending $1,000. Damn you Newegg and all your deals!
 
My CPU (2500k) gets hotter when playing than in prime95 (57 in prime vs 62 while playing).
Is it normal?

I guess it depends by the hot air coming up from the gpu...

I have a fractal define R3.
 
Principe Nero said:
I guess it depends by the hot air coming up from the gpu...
Yeah, that should be it. Can you improve airflow or add more fans to the case? Well, unless it doesn't bother you, which I don't think it should.
 
Rufus said:
Yeah, that should be it. Can you improve airflow or add more fans to the case? Well, unless it doesn't bother you, which I don't think it should.

I could remove the moduvent and place a fan sucking air from the gpu.

I see many users choosing the define r3, would be useful to know how they deal with the gpu heat.
 
First time CanadaGaf builder here, don't really know what I'm doing but the OP helped clear up some things.

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Laptop (Dell XPS 1530)
Budget: ~1000 CAD
Main Use: Gaming, general usage
Monitor Resolution: at least 1080p; no monitor yet, building first.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: at least FO:NV, GTA4 modded, Just Cause 2, Mass Effect 1,2 (Steam sale was a hit, what can I say) and future titles. Don't want to have to upgrade for at least a year.
Are reusing any parts?: Nop.
When will you build?: When I have spare time to put it together, willing to wait for deals.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes?

I need a Motherboard suggestion for all this. Does all the following stuff work, fit together? Is this a good deal? Am I pants-on-head retarded? Let me know.

The list so far...
CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K Quad Core Unlocked Processor LGA1155 3.3GHZ Sandy Bridge 6MB $199
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 560 Ti Twin Frozr II OC 880MHZ 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini-HDMI DX11 PCI-E Video Card $229
MOBO: ?
HDD(OS): Corsair Force CSSD-F115GB2-BRKT-A 2.5" 115GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) $149
HDD2: ?
RAM: Corsair XMS3 CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 4GB DDR3 2X2GB DDR3-1600 CL 9-9-9-24 Core i5 Dual Channel Memory Kit $24.99
or RAM2: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) Desktop Memory Model F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL $84.99
PSU: CORSAIR Enthusiast Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply $89
Case: Antec Three Hundred Illusion Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case $49
TOTAL: $715 pre-RAM, pre-Mobo; $800 (GSkill) or $740 (Corsair)

The PSU seems to have a lot of DOA reviews, but the massive amount of positive ones outweigh the negatives, so will probably end up with that one. List a mix from NCIX and Newegg.ca.
 
I sometimes get an error message when starting games (seems like its for the first time) that my system has ran outta ram and wants me to change a color setting. I always choose ignore. I have 4 gigs of ram.. maybe I should upgrade to 8?
 
After thinking about it for so long I finally decided to do it. So today I ordered some stuff for our new home server media pc combination.

I'm not quite sure about the case so far so I'll use an old ugly one first, will switch to something like jarosh or even smaller like the LC19 or a Antec Fusion Remote.

Anyway, here's what I ordered:
Core i3 2100T
8GB Kingston 1333 RAM
Intel DH67VR Motherboard
Samsung HD204UI Harddisk
_______________________
283€

I hope this will be a great server machine, combined with my newly arrived Windows Home Server 2011 :)
 
Gamble said:
soo thinking of incorporating one of these into a build anything thoughts/opinions/jokes/experiences?

http://www.compusa.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=7182&name=AMD-APUs&
I don't think they are bad for the price. It's basically an Athlon II with a decent built-in GPU.

That's more for a mainstream, general use computer or HTPC though. For a gaming build a Phenom II or even Athlon II and a good discrete GPU would be a lot better, but obviously cost more.
 
jred250 said:
Alright gaf, I'm wondering if one of you computer wizards can help me figure out an issue I'm having with my headphones. So when I start a program that requires sound I can't switch between using my headphones or using my speakers without restarting the program I'm using. So for example, I'm playing a game on steam, and I decide to plug in my headphones. When I plug them in, I get nothing from the headphones or the speakers. If I'm listening to the headphones first, and then unplug them, nothing will come out of my speakers. if I restart whatever I'm doing (e.g. quiting and than restarting a game, closing and reopening a tab on firefox) the sound comes from where it is supposed to, but it is super annoying to have to restart every program everytime I want to listen to my headphones.

Any ideas?

If you are using the onboard audio then make sure you have the latest drivers installed and check if there is a feature in the drivers to turn automatic switching on.

If you are using a separate audio card for your speakers and headphone or either of those are USB then they are recognized as separate devices in windows. Set the headphones as the default audio device, but this may not work in games. Most games you can select the audio device without restarting.
 
Hazaro said:
And you thoughts on this feist?

Just seems like most known facts about why you don't put heavy data loads on SSDs and why firmware and how drives store and do clean up is important.
Nothing new here. OS + programs on SSD. Data on other drives.

I didn't thoroughly read it since the translation wasn't that good, hopefully another sites gives a response to it.

*And my Intel 320 120GB which is 5 months old with 30% free space. Granted it tells nothing about the cycling.
Sustained Sequential Read
Up to 270 MB/s (Mine is 272MB/s)

Sustained Sequential Write
Up to 130 MB/s (Mine is 132 MB/s)
Between time and the language barrier, I didn't go through it thoroughly. I agree about some known points being touched on. Thought it could be another helpful source for some of the newcomers lurking about, or regulars seeking info in the thread.


scogoth said:
Always posting bad news on SSDs =(

Even slowing down its still a lot faster then HDDs. We'll have to wait and see for the life span. I now have 3 Vertex 2's and have yet to see any issue with them.
MD4Z9.jpg


Just posting possible points of interest, positive or not. Same with any anything else, really.


jarosh said:
LordCanti said:
jarosh said:
as promised, i finally took pictures of my new finished build and how i've integrated it into my setup. i eventually went with a different solution than i had planned but i managed to get everything into the existing shelf. we spent 4 - 5 hours yesterday re-arranging stuff and doing some serious cable management with ikea cable tubes. there were a LOT of cables (30? 40?) and they were a mess. it is much, much cleaner now.

and here she is, what a beauty:

bm2.jpg


this is the bedroom setup. strictly for gaming. i have most of my retro systems in a separate room with a crt. and movies we generally watch in the living room on a big projection screen.
That case looks amazing. Really classy in a non-PC sort of way. People wouldn't even know it was a PC unless they knew what they were looking at. My only gripe is that there isn't a door for the DVD drive (so that the front is completely seamless) but that is so minor. If I had to build an HTPC, I'd definitely pick that case up.
yeah, the optical drive isn't perfect. although i have to say that depending on the angle, it looks very much seamless and like it's part of the chassis. it's just two completely different materials, so they reflect light a lot differently. look at some of the other pics, the drive actually looks DARKER than the case in some of them. so in real life this isn't much of an issue.
rJQkl.jpg
SeYry.jpg


There are other options.
 
Principe Nero said:
My CPU (2500k) gets hotter when playing than in prime95 (57 in prime vs 62 while playing).
Is it normal?

I guess it depends by the hot air coming up from the gpu...

I have a fractal define R3.

I've never had my CPU exceed prime95 in a game but it's not big deals since in your case 62 degrees will not be a problem but I don't think games usually push a CPU as hard as far as I know but it also might have reached 62 degrees for only a few seconds.
 
My GTX 570 is running at 96 degrees F from league of legends. Advice? (I am getting screen artifacts that are from overheating or a bad GPU I think..)
 
Smokey said:
Have you tried custom tuning the fan profile?

How can I go about doing this?

Edit: Actually I think this is normal for fahrenheit. Are the temperature monitors in HWmonitor software accurate or do I need to calibrate?
 
I mentioned I ordered an EVGA 460GTX yesterday but I didn't notice until today that the model I got doesn't have the lifetime warranty like many reviews stated, I got the particular SKU that only has a 2-year warranty.

Should I be overly concerned? I have never had a card crash on me but I have only really ever built two machines so...
 
barnone said:
My GTX 570 is running at 96 degrees F from league of legends. Advice? (I am getting screen artifacts that are from overheating or a bad GPU I think..)

I'm assuming you mean Celsius. If that's Fahrenheit, then that's quite cool.
 
barnone said:
My GTX 570 is running at 96 degrees F from league of legends. Advice? (I am getting screen artifacts that are from overheating or a bad GPU I think..)

Are you sure? 96F is like...30C.

96C however is ~200F.
 
sikkinixx said:
I mentioned I ordered an EVGA 460GTX yesterday but I didn't notice until today that the model I got doesn't have the lifetime warranty like many reviews stated, I got the particular SKU that only has a 2-year warranty.

Should I be overly concerned? I have never had a card crash on me but I have only really ever built two machines so...
Not particularly. Still, the lifetime warranty versions cost roughly the same, or slightly more, so they're a much better buy. Just in case. Customer service aside, lifetime warranties are about the only reason, in most instances, I'd go with an EVGA over other options. Not having one makes them considerably less attractive.
 
Accidentus said:
Is there a noticable difference between 2ms and 5ms monitors. I keep seeing good deals around for 5ms monitors.

I don't follow pro FPS but 2ms is the currently tournament standard for the FG community (pioneered by the evo series). It is generally considered "no lag" as in most but the most crazy lag feeling people cannot detect any lag between their input and what they see on the screen. There are a few new 1ms monitors out there but they're prohibitively expensive and generally not worth it.

When playing games that require very quick and accurate inputs on reaction (again, fps and FG) you will probably notice a difference. For me, the change from 8ms to 2ms felt like the games quickening a frame or two which can be significant when playing multiplayer.
 
barnone said:
My GTX 570 is running at 96 degrees F from league of legends. Advice? (I am getting screen artifacts that are from overheating or a bad GPU I think..)

What's your build? You may have a faulty card if you're running stock clock speed. Getting those kind of temps and artifacts may mean your card is too overclocked or overheated.
 
Tallshortman said:
What's your build? You may have a faulty card if you're running stock clock speed. Getting those kind of temps and artifacts may mean your card is too overclocked or overheated.

He was looking at the temp inf Fahrenheit.
 
Okay I just got my build finished and I can't get past the BIOS screen, it just hangs at loading operating system. I have a Gigabyte Z68A-D3H mobo, anyone else familiar with this issue?
 
Ok guys I'm about to buy the following:

CPU: i5-2500K
Motherboard: Asrock P67 EXTREME6 REV 3.0
RAM: G-Skill 4GBXL Ripjaws X 1600Mhz (2x2GB)
Hard drive: Samsung F3 HD103SJ (x2)
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-750TXV2UK
GPU: HD 6950 (Not sure on brand)
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Case: Coolermaster HAF X

I want this running as cool as possible really. The only thing I'm really not sure about is the brand of 6950, which one can you unlock and what's considered the best brand these days?

Apart from that any other suggestions are welcome.
 
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Only have a laptop currently with an ATI HD 4670.
Budget: Under $1500. USA.
Main Use: Gaming, general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: I have an ASUS VH236 monitor which according to Amazon is 1920x1080.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Starcraft 2, LotRO, Dawn of War 2, Witcher 2, Tera Online, Team Fortress 2
Are reusing any parts?: No; no previous desktop.
When will you build?: Looking to purchase parts between now and before mid-December this year.
Will you be overclocking?: No.

Been gaming on a laptop only and I've been wanting to grab a desktop instead (this will be the first desktop I've ever attempted to build myself). I'd like to be able to play the list of specific games at high or maybe even close to max settings? I don't care much for Battlefield 3 so just playing that on medium without slowdown is fine enough for me. Also, are there desktop cases designed for portability? I fly out of the country about twice a year and it'd be nice to have a desktop with me for gaming.
 
I asked the question a few days ago about upgrading my video card and got some helpful replies about possibly updating but having to make sure its compatible with my CPU. My PC specs again:
CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 6320 @ 1.86GHz
RAM: 2GB
Videocard: GeForce 7600 GS

So if I budgeted a £100 for a new video card, could I get a better card that will still be compatible with my CPU? And then if I do decide to upgrade I can use it in another build?

And another question, is this a good choice in HDD?
 
·feist· said:
Not particularly. Still, the lifetime warranty versions cost roughly the same, or slightly more, so they're a much better buy. Just in case. Customer service aside, lifetime warranties are about the only reason, in most instances, I'd go with an EVGA over other options. Not having one makes them considerably less attractive.

Thanks. Too late to cancel anyway, already shipped. D'oh. Oh well, reviews showed the one I got beating most in it's range and got it for cheaper than even the Galaxy ($70 rebate would have been nice but yeah...)
 
awwyeahgurrl said:
Ok guys I'm about to buy the following:

CPU: i5-2500K
Motherboard: Asrock P67 EXTREME6 REV 3.0
RAM: G-Skill 4GBXL Ripjaws X 1600Mhz (2x2GB)
Hard drive: Samsung F3 HD103SJ (x2)
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-750TXV2UK
GPU: HD 6950 (Not sure on brand)
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Case: Coolermaster HAF X

I want this running as cool as possible really. The only thing I'm really not sure about is the brand of 6950, which one can you unlock and what's considered the best brand these days?

Apart from that any other suggestions are welcome.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102945

This is probably what you're looking for, sapphire usually reviews as one of the best manufacturers. This version is also very easy to unlock the shaders that will basically turn it into a 6970. It also comes with extra fans.
 
Red Blaster said:
Okay I just got my build finished and I can't get past the BIOS screen, it just hangs at loading operating system. I have a Gigabyte Z68A-D3H mobo, anyone else familiar with this issue?
What's the last thing that appears on the screen?
 
Sourtreats said:
I asked the question a few days ago about upgrading my video card and got some helpful replies about possibly updating but having to make sure its compatible with my CPU. My PC specs again:
CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 6320 @ 1.86GHz
RAM: 2GB
Videocard: GeForce 7600 GS

So if I budgeted a £100 for a new video card, could I get a better card that will still be compatible with my CPU? And then if I do decide to upgrade I can use it in another build?

And another question, is this a good choice in HDD?

Whatever you buy will be compatible just from seeing a 7600 fits. PCIe slots are backwards compatible. It doesn't matter what CPU you have (granted yours is pretty old and may bottleneck your GPU in some modern games), just the mobo (your current mobo will work) and making sure you have a proper PSU when installing a GPU.

Also, if you purchase a card now it will be compatible with future builds (again, as long as you have a proper PSU). All you need to do is take it out and plug it into your new build. You may also want to get another 2GB stick of memory if you want to make sure it doesn't bottleneck you.
 
Red Blaster said:
Okay I just got my build finished and I can't get past the BIOS screen, it just hangs at loading operating system. I have a Gigabyte Z68A-D3H mobo, anyone else familiar with this issue?
Did you reinstall Windows?
 
nvm guys, I fixed it. Didn't set it to boot from the CD Drive, I'm a dumbass. Appreciate the help tho.

Anyhoo, I'm up and running but I'm a bit worried about my temps and airflow. It's a Fractal Design R3 with only the included case fans put in and a stock cooler on a i7 2600. My idle is around 37-39 with some bumps into the low 40s in RealTemp, that about right?
 
Red Blaster said:
nvm guys, I fixed it. Didn't set it to boot from the CD Drive, I'm a dumbass. Appreciate the help tho.

Anyhoo, I'm up and running but I'm a bit worried about my temps and airflow. It's a Fractal Design R3 with only the included case fans put in and a stock cooler on a i7 2600. My idle is around 37-39 with some bumps into the low 40s in RealTemp, that about right?

No thats on the hot side of what you should expect.
 
Red Blaster said:
nvm guys, I fixed it. Didn't set it to boot from the CD Drive, I'm a dumbass. Appreciate the help tho.

Anyhoo, I'm up and running but I'm a bit worried about my temps and airflow. It's a Fractal Design R3 with only the included case fans put in and a stock cooler on a i7 2600. My idle is around 37-39 with some bumps into the low 40s in RealTemp, that about right?
I wouldn't worry about idle temps. It varies greatly depending on your room temps, cpu cooler, case air circulation and so on. Way more important, what are your load temps with Prime 95 small FFT? If it's high, are you overclocking and what voltage?
 
Ran the FFT and was getting highs 70s. I'm on a 2600 so no OCing, according to CPUID I'm at 1.04v, would reducing that help get things under control? I suppose removing some of the sound dampeners from the R3 might help as well.
 
Red Blaster said:
Ran the FFT and was getting highs 70s. I'm on a 2600 so no OCing, according to CPUID I'm at 1.04v, would reducing that help get things under control? I suppose removing some of the sound dampeners from the R3 might help as well.
70C would be high for not overclocking. Are you using the stock cooler? And, stock voltage should be ~1.2V under full load. 1.04V is probably idling and downclocking @ 1.6Ghz.
 
awwyeahgurrl said:
Ok guys I'm about to buy the following:

CPU: i5-2500K
Motherboard: Asrock P67 EXTREME6 REV 3.0
RAM: G-Skill 4GBXL Ripjaws X 1600Mhz (2x2GB)
Hard drive: Samsung F3 HD103SJ (x2)
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-750TXV2UK
GPU: HD 6950 (Not sure on brand)
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Case: Coolermaster HAF X

I want this running as cool as possible really. The only thing I'm really not sure about is the brand of 6950, which one can you unlock and what's considered the best brand these days?

Apart from that any other suggestions are welcome.

Following on from this I'm on the fence about getting the "Sapphire ATI Radeon HD 6950 "Dual Fan Edition" but I hear that it's quiet noisy on load. I'm also looking at MSI ATI Radeon HD 6950 OC Twin FrozR III Power Edition. What's the thoughts on these, has the twin frozr already got the shaders unlocked?
 
Gaf I bought a new harddrive since I assumed my previous one died, but when I try to boot it to install Windows 7 it still says no harddrive detected even though the bios detected it. What is the deal here?
 
Hey everyone. God I hope this is the right place to ask this. So I just bought a pretty good PC. Now I need to get the best visual and audio experience. Now one thing you should know about me is that I'm a noob in this domain.

First, about the monitor. I'm planning on getting the 24" Samsung BX2450. But I don't know what cable to get. I want to get the best picture quality possible. So which cable should I use?
- DVI to HDMI
- Mini HDMI
- DVI
- DVI to VGA

As for the audio part. What PC speaker system do you guys recommend? I'm ready to pay up to $60 if the system is of high quality.

Thanks.
 
Le-mo said:
How would I do that without Windows?

Hmm. Does Windows not recognize it when you run the disc at startup? Try selecting that HDD as your boot device in BIOS, or select the DVD drive as boot device.
 
daviyoung said:
Hmm. Does Windows not recognize it when you run the disc at startup? Try selecting that HDD as your boot device in BIOS, or select the DVD drive as boot device.
I selected both the HDD and DVD drive as boot device and Windows still won't recognize it.
 
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