"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Yah the SATA ports are enabled. The thing is my computer was working fine just a few days ago when Windows all of a sudden stopped recognizing my harddrive. I bought a new harddrive and the same problem still persists. The inside of my computer was untouched so cable connections shouldn't be a problem even though I did check it multiple times.daviyoung said:
ConstructMe
Banned
I'd still go back and double check.Le-mo said:
CarbonatedFalcon
Member
·feist· said:There are other options.
What case is this? It looks quite nice, though I'd prefer a different colored interior if only to match other parts (e.g. Asus MBs usually being blue)
I'm not overclocking and my DVD drive is fine since I tested it. I tried switching SATA ports and that didn't fix the problem. I still don't see how its a hardware problem since the inside wasn't touched prior to the problem. I think I might disassemble everything if nothing can fix it.knitoe said:
6950 $170 shipped, hurry will sell out fast
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LXBG9G/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LXBG9G/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I have Steam client installed on my SSD, and I'm moving "non a-list" games to my secondary hd (Samsung F4).
Problem is: everytime I download a game from Stema it's downloadead on the SSD, meaning also that I need the required space even if I know I'll immediately move my new game on the other disk.
So I'm wondering: is there a way to keep the client on the SSD disk and move the default steamapps folder on the other drive (such is the case with iTunes library, for example)?
Or what could be the best way to do something like this?
Do I need to unistall the client and reinstall it in the secondary hd, slowing the startup time?
Thanks for your thoughts! I'm really, really enjoying my new rig, it plays splendidly, I barely touch my consoles these days. ^^
Problem is: everytime I download a game from Stema it's downloadead on the SSD, meaning also that I need the required space even if I know I'll immediately move my new game on the other disk.
So I'm wondering: is there a way to keep the client on the SSD disk and move the default steamapps folder on the other drive (such is the case with iTunes library, for example)?
Or what could be the best way to do something like this?
Do I need to unistall the client and reinstall it in the secondary hd, slowing the startup time?
Thanks for your thoughts! I'm really, really enjoying my new rig, it plays splendidly, I barely touch my consoles these days. ^^
Symbolic link or steam mover.
Basically you link your steamapps folder on your SSD to point to your HDD.
This is what I used. http://schinagl.priv.at/nt/hardlinkshellext/hardlinkshellext.html
Basically you link your steamapps folder on your SSD to point to your HDD.
This is what I used. http://schinagl.priv.at/nt/hardlinkshellext/hardlinkshellext.html
Ezahn said:
Steam Mover/Steam Tool is what you're after. You'll need to be running WinVista/7.
Edit: Beaten like an egg.
Does you bios see the HDD? If yes, the "NO HDD detected..." could be that there are no HDD on the second device controller. For example, on Asus P67/Z68 MBs, they have a Intel and Marvell controller. If you attached drives(s) only to the Intel, Marvell will say "NO HDD Detected...".Le-mo said:
Tnx guys, I'm actually using Steam Tool and it works like a charm, but what I'd like is that Steam downloads go directly on the hdd.
I'll move the a-list game to the ssd later.
So, kinda backwards: default downloads --> hdd /// selected games --> ssd
Meaning: since Steam client is on the ssd it defaults the downloads on the ssd, and sometimes the ssd just hasn't enough space left. ^^
EDIT: maybe with some symb link magic I could "trick" Steam in thinking that his default steamapps folder is my customized folder on the hdd?
I'll move the a-list game to the ssd later.
So, kinda backwards: default downloads --> hdd /// selected games --> ssd
Meaning: since Steam client is on the ssd it defaults the downloads on the ssd, and sometimes the ssd just hasn't enough space left. ^^
EDIT: maybe with some symb link magic I could "trick" Steam in thinking that his default steamapps folder is my customized folder on the hdd?
Last question before I force myself to order these parts. CPU coolers, I know the 212+ is recommended but if I want a little more what's the best to go with. Hearing good things about the Noctua NH-D14 and the Thermalright Silver Arrow, anyone have experience with these or is there something better altogether (in terms of air cooling)
Enosh
Member
don't know if this is the right thread, but I have seen some people ask questions when theay had PC issues so:
when I play crysis 2 my PC just simply shuts down after a while (can be 10 can be 40 min in), I have the game since day 1 and I didn't have this problem until last friday or saturday, I didn't change any setting, I didn't overclock my CPU or GPU, it worked perfectly fine wendsday when I played it
only cyrsis 2 has this problem, I tried playing MW2 and BC2 and both worked fine, will try and test some other games too latter on
is my graphics card dying or something? I alt tabed out of the game some 10 min in to check the GPU temp on the ATI control center and it was around 107, is that too high? that was with the side pannel of the case open open btw (was blowing out some dust), after some googling of crysis + pc shutting down some people have been saying that the psu might be at fault
my spec:
E8400 @3GHz
ATI 4850 HD
4 gig of ram
the PSu is some 550w thingy
when I play crysis 2 my PC just simply shuts down after a while (can be 10 can be 40 min in), I have the game since day 1 and I didn't have this problem until last friday or saturday, I didn't change any setting, I didn't overclock my CPU or GPU, it worked perfectly fine wendsday when I played it
only cyrsis 2 has this problem, I tried playing MW2 and BC2 and both worked fine, will try and test some other games too latter on
is my graphics card dying or something? I alt tabed out of the game some 10 min in to check the GPU temp on the ATI control center and it was around 107, is that too high? that was with the side pannel of the case open open btw (was blowing out some dust), after some googling of crysis + pc shutting down some people have been saying that the psu might be at fault
my spec:
E8400 @3GHz
ATI 4850 HD
4 gig of ram
the PSu is some 550w thingy
secretly hoping that my gpu is at fault since I then have a decend excuse to finaly get a new one ^^
ss_lemonade
Member
Damn I now have my new 6970 at hand, but I'm stuck at work for 9 hours. Despite this being my first ATI/AMD card, I expect great things out of it (coming from a gtx 275)
Might be the Power supply maybe? What brand is it? I once used a generic psu to power an 8800 gts and my pc too would shutdown randomly when running heavy stuff like crysis. And yeah, 107C is definitely high. Said 8800 gave up on me due to high temps like that. Try cleaning the gpu with a can of compressed air, usually does wonders.
toastyToast
Member
RS4- said:
The D14 has better ram compatibility since the front fan is only 120mm compared to 140mm on the Silver Arrow. To remedy this you can install the fans in a pull/pull config (middle and rear instead of front middle). From what I've found they perform exactly the same.
One bonus that the Silver Arrow has over the D14 is that it's slightly quieter although they're both much quieter than cheaper coolers.
In other news I've settled on 4.9GHz on my 2500K at 1.336V on load setting the voltage using offset instead of manual. I think I got a magical chip, so happy since everything that I've owned before this has been pretty mediocre as far as overclockability goes.
Enosh
Member
the PSU is LC5550 550 W
but like said, everything worked fine until ~4 days ago
damn, that's what I feared -.-remz said:Sounds like power supply to me. I had a similar problem with my current build, that game and a dying PSU, replacing the PSU fixed everything.
is there a definitive test to make sure if it is the PSu or GPU that's dying without having a replacement?
My expected build (found here) shouldn't have any trouble fitting into the CM690II should it? The fit inside the case is still something I'm not too familiar with. If I know it all fits I've got no problem though !
I also plan on running CM Hyper 212 (or something similar) when I start over clocking. Any issues here?
!I also plan on running CM Hyper 212 (or something similar) when I start over clocking. Any issues here?
Sqrt_minus_one
Member
Enosh said:
Try opening the case up and removing any dust build up around the grills and cleaning the fans if possible. Then run Crysis 2 with the case still open to rule out overheating of the system.
Yesterday I posted about my graphical artifacts in LoL. They still pop up.. However, I am getting temperatures of 78 degrees celsius playing Bad Company 2 and am NOT getting any artifacts. Not quite sure what's up, should I reinstall the driver?
the 96 fahrenheit temp I posted was read a few minutes after I quit LoL so it wasnt the peak temp :>
ss_lemonade
Member
I see no reason why everything shouldn't fit. I use the original cm690 case and was able to fit in it a v6gt (which I believe is even larger than the 212), gtx 275 and everything else while being able to hide the cables and stuff behind the motherboard tray. The CM690II should even be more spacious than my case so you should be good to go.TommyT said:My expected build (found here) shouldn't have any trouble fitting into the CM690II should it? The fit inside the case is still something I'm not too familiar with. If I know it all fits I've got no problem though
I also plan on running CM Hyper 212 (or something similar) when I start over clocking. Any issues here?
so does it matter which mobo i get from here?
i5 2500k with gigabyte z68
http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.phtml?sku_list=200121+525667
i5 2500k with asus p8p67
http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.phtml?sku_list=200121+484865
im thinkin of going with the gigabyte z68 since its cheaper but is there any difference or does it not matter since im building a comp mainly for gaming
i5 2500k with gigabyte z68
http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.phtml?sku_list=200121+525667
i5 2500k with asus p8p67
http://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.phtml?sku_list=200121+484865
im thinkin of going with the gigabyte z68 since its cheaper but is there any difference or does it not matter since im building a comp mainly for gaming
MadraptorMan
Member
So I live in Japan and unfortunately computers are expensive as shit here so I have decided to attempt to build my first system from scratch. I'm rolling in the dough right now but I am still a cheap person at heart so I want to save as much as I can. I want a gaming PC that I can use for at least 4 years and maybe more with upgrades.
Here's what I've dumped in my Amazon Japan shopping cart so far:
Case: ZALMAN ATX Mid Tower Case Z9 PLUS
CPU: Intel CPU Corei5 i5-2500K 3.3GHz 6M LGA1155 SandyBridge BX80623I52500K
GPU: Expert Oriented GeForce GTX570 1280MB (GF-GTX570-E1280HW/FJ)
Mobo: ASRock P67 ATX FrontUSB3.0 B3 P67 Extreme 4
RAM: CORSAIR DDR3 1600MHz 8GB 2x240 DIMM Unbuffered 9-19-9-27 XMS3 CMX8GX3M2A1600C9
PSU: Expert Oriented 80PLUS Bronze 630W プラグイン KRPW-P630W/85+
HDD: Western Digital 3.5" 500GB SATA/6.0GB 7200RPM 16MB WD5000AAKX-R
CPU Cooling Solution: Xigmatek Gaia SD1283 and Arctic Silver 05 Paste
GPU Cooling Solution: Thermaltek CL-G0103 SOrb
All of that for about $1100 (pretty good for Japan I think..)
The only things I havent added yet are some cheap DVDRW drive and Windows 7. I'm not actually sure the best way to get Windows 7 because on Amazon Japan it is way too expensive (like $300 for the English version). Is it possible to buy Windows 7 as a download, burn it into a DVD, and install it on a new system from there? If so that's what I'll do.
Other than that, how does it look? Did I leave anything out?
Here's what I've dumped in my Amazon Japan shopping cart so far:
Case: ZALMAN ATX Mid Tower Case Z9 PLUS
CPU: Intel CPU Corei5 i5-2500K 3.3GHz 6M LGA1155 SandyBridge BX80623I52500K
GPU: Expert Oriented GeForce GTX570 1280MB (GF-GTX570-E1280HW/FJ)
Mobo: ASRock P67 ATX FrontUSB3.0 B3 P67 Extreme 4
RAM: CORSAIR DDR3 1600MHz 8GB 2x240 DIMM Unbuffered 9-19-9-27 XMS3 CMX8GX3M2A1600C9
PSU: Expert Oriented 80PLUS Bronze 630W プラグイン KRPW-P630W/85+
HDD: Western Digital 3.5" 500GB SATA/6.0GB 7200RPM 16MB WD5000AAKX-R
CPU Cooling Solution: Xigmatek Gaia SD1283 and Arctic Silver 05 Paste
GPU Cooling Solution: Thermaltek CL-G0103 SOrb
All of that for about $1100 (pretty good for Japan I think..)
The only things I havent added yet are some cheap DVDRW drive and Windows 7. I'm not actually sure the best way to get Windows 7 because on Amazon Japan it is way too expensive (like $300 for the English version). Is it possible to buy Windows 7 as a download, burn it into a DVD, and install it on a new system from there? If so that's what I'll do.
Other than that, how does it look? Did I leave anything out?
MadraptorMan
Member
Gvaz said:
I could always upgrade my graphics card and add another for SLI somewhere down the line. Not to mention OCing everything. I think it should be doable with the stuff I'm planning to buy, no?
Red Blaster
Member
knitoe said:
Yeah it's the stock Intel cooler. Pretty sure I installed it right (pins are sticking out the back correctly), but the system's still getting pretty damn hot.
RumblingRosco
Member
MadraptorMan said:
If you want this to last 4 years, be sure to get a solid PSU. I have never heard of Expert Oriented so cannot comment on their quality. Besides that, it's a solid build that will last you fairly long especially if you overclock the i5 as needed and look into adding another 570 in a couple years. If you're really looking to last 4 years, I'd maybe suggest getting the 580 instead of a 570. Might need to up your PSU slightly if you do that, though.
MadraptorMan
Member
Soka said:
Expert Oriented is just the English name for a Japanese PC parts company that has a pretty good reputation for reliability in this country. Is the 580 really that much of an upgrade over the 570? It's such a big price difference that'd I rather not get it now, but I could always upgrade later when it's cheaper.
Anyone know anything about buying a copy of Windows 7 online and burning it onto a DVD for a new computer? I've got a DVD burner on this laptop so I could do it as long as it's a viable solution to buying the OS.
I am upgrading my PC and have everything picked out except the damn motherboard. I just can't decide.
I would really like to keep the price point around $150. I have a Corsair 650D case and would like to leverage the Front USB 3.0 port if possible. I don't care much about SLI or Crossfire. I have an Nvidia 260 I'm using and will use for awhile. Getting the 2500K cpu.
I think I am leaning toward the MSI P67-G45 but I can't really find any reviews on it, only it's big brother the G65. Close second in my leanings is the ASUS P8P67 vanilla It has a decent review from HardOCP.
Any thoughts?
I would really like to keep the price point around $150. I have a Corsair 650D case and would like to leverage the Front USB 3.0 port if possible. I don't care much about SLI or Crossfire. I have an Nvidia 260 I'm using and will use for awhile. Getting the 2500K cpu.
I think I am leaning toward the MSI P67-G45 but I can't really find any reviews on it, only it's big brother the G65. Close second in my leanings is the ASUS P8P67 vanilla It has a decent review from HardOCP.
Any thoughts?
Tallshortman
Member
awwyeahgurrl said:
You will need to unlock it yourself through BIOS. The sapphire version is a bit easier because it's built in so for the MSI you will need to do it yourself (there's instructions online so it won't be that difficult if you read through them) unless I missed something reading through the MSI details..
Enosh
Member
I did that before doing the temp "test"colinisation said:
like said in the OP the temp test was done with the case open
funny enough i just now played some ~1h of crysis 2 without problems (that's with the case closed again, the temps were the same)
will do some more "testing" at night when I have more time...
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
If you're worried about future-proofing, you may want to go with a Z68 board and i7 2600K instead. Since you don't have a SSD in your build, the Z68 will let you use a cheaper small SSD as a cache drive, and the i7 has HT which will give you more threads than the i5. Not much use for that now games-wise, but in a couple years it can give you a performance boost if more games start taking advantage of more threads.MadraptorMan said:
Moundir&Tony>you
Member
Need some info , guys .
I'm going to change my graphics card . However , I don't know which one to pick between a 5850 or a 6850 . 5850 is cheaper (120) , the other one is 10 more .
My current specs are :
E8400 @ 3.2ghz
4GB ram
HD4850
500W PSU .
I'm going to change my graphics card . However , I don't know which one to pick between a 5850 or a 6850 . 5850 is cheaper (120) , the other one is 10 more .
My current specs are :
E8400 @ 3.2ghz
4GB ram
HD4850
500W PSU .
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