Support NeoGAF

[RS4-]

Well got my GTX 560 today. After installing it and the new PSU I decided to try it out with some Battlefield: Bad Company 2. Put the settings on high . Wonderful. I took the advice in one of the reviews on NewEgg and installed the program that the card comes with and changed the fan speed. I alt-enter several times during matches and check the temp of the card. Seemed while playing it was around 50C to 60C. When I'm not gaming and just using my computer to surf the net and typing it's running at 38C. Are these temperatures normal?

I love maxing out everything in BC2, I still have to find the setting that tones down the...bloom? I don't know, it's just something that really drives me crazy when I zoom in using the m24 or other sniper rifles and things just go bright as hell, especially in the snow levels.

I'll try to take pics as an example.

I'm not too sure about the temps, it's something I've been thinking about checking next time I boot up BC2.

 

[mandiller]

So I'm getting a few problems with my new computer at the moment and I'm wondering if they are to do with overclocking.

Sometimes when I launch games a popup comes up after the game has loaded asking if I want to change my colour scheme (Aero) to improve performance. If I click 'No, don't show me this again', it'll still come back next time. I did a search online and one person said they reckon the problem is under-voltage - so when the game loads it doesn't get enough voltage to load properly.

I have MSI afterburner install on my PC but I haven't used it to change any variables, but I have used my Asus P8P67 Pro B3's OC tuner which automatically changed some settings for my CPU (i5 2500k), I changed them again by lowering them to give me a 4.0Ghz overclock 100 x 40, but my voltage is set to variable, so it jumps around depending on how much I'm using the CPU. Could that be a problem?

 

[Hazaro]

Guys what are the pros/cons of running dual GPU?

It's in the OP somewhere.

Well got my GTX 560 today. After installing it and the new PSU I decided to try it out with some Battlefield: Bad Company 2. Put the settings on high . Wonderful. I took the advice in one of the reviews on NewEgg and installed the program that the card comes with and changed the fan speed. I alt-enter several times during matches and check the temp of the card. Seemed while playing it was around 50C to 60C. When I'm not gaming and just using my computer to surf the net and typing it's running at 38C. Are these temperatures normal?

Up to 90C is fine.

So I'm getting a few problems with my new computer at the moment and I'm wondering if they are to do with overclocking.

Sometimes when I launch games a popup comes up after the game has loaded asking if I want to change my colour scheme (Aero) to improve performance. If I click 'No, don't show me this again', it'll still come back next time. I did a search online and one person said they reckon the problem is under-voltage - so when the game loads it doesn't get enough voltage to load properly.

I have MSI afterburner install on my PC but I haven't used it to change any variables, but I have used my Asus P8P67 Pro B3's OC tuner which automatically changed some settings for my CPU (i5 2500k), I changed them again by lowering them to give me a 4.0Ghz overclock 100 x 40, but my voltage is set to variable, so it jumps around depending on how much I'm using the CPU. Could that be a problem?

Use a fixed voltage or offset. Don't use the auto tuner. Lock BLCK to 100.0Mhz.
Voltage should only majorly fluctuate when going from idle to load.

Aero should be a windows problem and not related to your hardware.

 

[scogoth]

Guys what are the pros/cons of running dual GPU?

Read the OP

Edit: Beaten but I linked to the post about dual GPU

 

[mandiller]

Use a fixed voltage or offset. Don't use the auto tuner. Lock BLCK to 100.0Mhz.
Voltage should only majorly fluctuate when going from idle to load.

Aero should be a windows problem and not related to your hardware.

I've put BLCK on 100 (auto tuner changed it to 103). If I fix my voltage will it still go lower when my CPU is relatively idle (and running at 1.6Ghz)?. It's running idle at the moment and the voltage jumps around only a little (eg: 0.952, 0.968, 0.972). If I fix it so it's higher will it be damaging my CPU if it is only running slower at 1.6Ghz? Also, what should I change it to?

 

[CarbonatedFalcon]

Anyone have any opinions on this case?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119196

It has over 1000 reviews on NewEgg and averages 5-Stars so it has to be good, but I was wondering if anyone here had it. It's definitely one of the better looking cases I've seen and if I was building right now I'd probably choose it. A lot of PC cases just aren't very friendly on the eyes, even if the feature-set is good.

 

[knitoe]

I've put BLCK on 100 (auto tuner changed it to 103). If I fix my voltage will it still go lower when my CPU is relatively idle (and running at 1.6Ghz)?. It's running idle at the moment and the voltage jumps around only a little (eg: 0.952, 0.968, 0.972). If I fix it so it's higher will it be damaging my CPU if it is only running slower at 1.6Ghz? Also, what should I change it to?

To use less voltages when idling, you need to use OFFSET instead of a fix voltage number.

 

[Le-mo]

Does you bios see the HDD? If yes, the "NO HDD detected..." could be that there are no HDD on the second device controller. For example, on Asus P67/Z68 MBs, they have a Intel and Marvell controller. If you attached drives(s) only to the Intel, Marvell will say "NO HDD Detected...".

My bios detects the HDD, but not on bootup. I think I might have a bad motherboard. I reassembled everything, used brand new cables, switched the SATA ports, got a new harddrive and the problem still persists. What does gaf think? Has my motherboard gone bad?

 

[Effect]

Up to 90C is fine.

Thanks.

 

[mandiller]

To use less voltages when idling, you need to use OFFSET instead of a fix voltage number.

I just checked my bios, my cpu voltage is set to Offset already (auto tuner must have done it). Then below that I can select + or - (it's set to + ) and then for the voltage below that is set to Auto with no way to select it and change it. What should I be doing?

 

[knitoe]

I just checked my bios, my cpu voltage is set to Offset already (auto tuner must have done it). Then below that I can select + or - (it's set to + ) and then for the voltage below that is set to Auto with no way to select it and change it. What should I be doing?

Press the + or - key to change the value from AUTO.

First, you need to find out what voltage is need for what overclock speed using the auto settings as a starting point. Lets say, it's 1.3V for 4.4 GHz. Since auto overclock software tends to overvolts, you can manually try set a lower number, like 1.29V, 1.28V, 1.275V and so on.

 

[Xamdou]

The Kingston 64GB SSDNow Solid State Notebook Hard Drive Bundle, is this external or do I have to install it in my notebook?

Link: http://www.costco.com/Browse/Produc...=2&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&topnav=&s=1

It's going to be on sale soon for like $65.

 

[RS4-]

The Kingston 64GB SSDNow Solid State Notebook Hard Drive Bundle, is this external or do I have to install it in my notebook?

Link: http://www.costco.com/Browse/Produc...=2&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Nty=1&topnav=&s=1

It's going to be on sale soon for like $65.

It's fine for desktop use. You'd probably need a 2.5 to 3.5 adapter or something in your case.

edit - nm it comes with mounting brackets, not sure if it'd work out that great though

 

[Chesskid1]

anyone here elite enough for eyefinity?


i have a few questions, i always had dual monitors and my new video card is coming so might as well try it.

i have a 30" 2560x1600 monitor and a 20" 1680x1050 monitor.

so if i rotate the 20" it will become 1050x1680 with the 30" 2560x1600. i actually just already rotated the 20" literally 5 minutes ago to see if i could and had no problems.

it will be 1680 and 1600 side by side, so off by 80 or so pixels. Should i get the 20" to a custom resolution, such as 1050x1600? or will the eyefinity software figure it out itself?

also, is there any good software to get the colors of the monitors to watch? heh, one is a samsung and the other is a dell and the colors are pretty off.

can't wait to try this stuff

 

[mandiller]

Press the + or - key to change the value from AUTO.

First, you need to find out what voltage is need for what overclock speed using the auto settings as a starting point. Lets say, it's 1.3V for 4.4 GHz. Since auto overclock software tends to overvolts, you can manually try set a lower number, like 1.29V, 1.28V, 1.275V and so on.

Here's what my OC settings look like:

OC1 OC2 OC3

Where it says CPU Voltage in the third picture that 1.192v jumps around a bit. In the CPU Offset Voltage setting I can change it in increments of 0.005. I'm assuming it adds that amount onto a base amount of voltage when it needs it. I'm still confused as what what settings I need to change and to what values. If my cpu voltage jumps around a bit then how will I know how much to set my offset voltage to?

 

[Hazaro]

use cpu-z to determine your load voltage (should be around 1.2V)
Use prime 95 or utilities in the OP
then cahnge offset voltage to get that voltage number to 1.25V

 

[RS4-]

anyone here elite enough for eyefinity?


i have a few questions, i always had dual monitors and my new video card is coming so might as well try it.

i have a 30" 2560x1600 monitor and a 20" 1680x1050 monitor.

so if i rotate the 20" it will become 1050x1680 with the 30" 2560x1600. i actually just already rotated the 20" literally 5 minutes ago to see if i could and had no problems.

it will be 1680 and 1600 side by side, so off by 80 or so pixels. Should i get the 20" to a custom resolution, such as 1050x1600? or will the eyefinity software figure it out itself?

also, is there any good software to get the colors of the monitors to watch? heh, one is a samsung and the other is a dell and the colors are pretty off.

can't wait to try this stuff

iirc, eyefinity with diff resolutions is ok if you're on the desktop, but when it comes to gaming, it'll go by the lowest resolution.

Did come across this though: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=338031

There are probably other fixes and such to get around the different resolution stuff.

I don't know about software that'll adjust your colors, I think most people either use the hardware calibrators or just find settings people use online.

 

[mandiller]

use cpu-z to determine your load voltage (should be around 1.2V)
Use prime 95 or utilities in the OP
then cahnge offset voltage to get that voltage number to 1.25V

Okay I'm running Prime95 and CPU-Z. At full load (4Ghz) my voltage jumps around between 1.240 and 1.256. So would I need to set my voltage offset to only around 0.010?

 

[knitoe]

Here's what my OC settings look like:

OC1 OC2 OC3

Where it says CPU Voltage in the third picture that 1.192v jumps around a bit. In the CPU Offset Voltage setting I can change it in increments of 0.005. I'm assuming it adds that amount onto a base amount of voltage when it needs it. I'm still confused as what what settings I need to change and to what values. If my cpu voltage jumps around a bit then how will I know how much to set my offset voltage to?

1) Use the auto overclock tuner to get the desire speed. Load up CPUZ and HWmonitor. Then, run Prime 95 small FFT to see your voltage under full load.

2) Now, go into the bios and manually set your overclock speed (multiplier). Set Line Calibration = Regular. Base voltage should be ~1.2V. Use OFFset+ & value to achieve voltage under full load in step #1.

3) Load up CPUZ and HWmonitor again. Then, run Prime 95 small FFT to see the voltage under full load.

4) If Offset number is wrong, adjust it and keep repeating steps #3 until you get it correct.

5) Afterward, you can try decreasing the Offset number (.010V each time) and run Prime95 until your computer crash. Then, increase the Offset number (.005V each time). If Prime 95 doesn't crash after 4+ hours, that's your sweet spot for that speed.

 

[Hazaro]

Okay I'm running Prime95 and CPU-Z. At full load (4Ghz) my voltage jumps around between 1.240 and 1.256. So would I need to set my voltage offset to only around 0.010?

That's a pretty good clock and voltage.
You can see if you can get to 4.3/4.4/4.5 on 1.25V though you may need up to 1.30V

 

[mike23]

So I'm getting a few problems with my new computer at the moment and I'm wondering if they are to do with overclocking.

Sometimes when I launch games a popup comes up after the game has loaded asking if I want to change my colour scheme (Aero) to improve performance. If I click 'No, don't show me this again', it'll still come back next time. I did a search online and one person said they reckon the problem is under-voltage - so when the game loads it doesn't get enough voltage to load properly.

I have MSI afterburner install on my PC but I haven't used it to change any variables, but I have used my Asus P8P67 Pro B3's OC tuner which automatically changed some settings for my CPU (i5 2500k), I changed them again by lowering them to give me a 4.0Ghz overclock 100 x 40, but my voltage is set to variable, so it jumps around depending on how much I'm using the CPU. Could that be a problem?

Check how much ram you're using. Windows might be asking that because you're getting low.

 

[fin]

So my new PC wasn't recognizing my USB devices last night. So I uninstalled all the USB controllers in device manager, and restarted. Unplugged the PC for a few hours, but nothing. Any new device I would insert wouldn't work. But my Bluetooth dongle was still working cause, I guess, I never removed it...... But then I removed it, and tried plugging it in to another port, and nothing. So then I try using these devices on my other PC....nothing. So now I have zero I/O devices. My mobo has no PS2 ports. So I reset the CMOS by removing the battery. Still NOTHING!

So I took it back to the shop that I bought it and the front USB connectors weren't connected to the right plug. But the rears were working fine. Needless to say I left the shop and it was working fine. So i get home from work and the same thing happens, nothing is working. So I take everything into work and start trying my devices there.

All of my USB devices that I hooked up to my PC were dead. So I hook up my PC at work and I tried some fresh USB devices there. They all worked. So basically my new PC fried a keyboard and mouse, my Bluetooth dongle for my logitech wireless keyboard and mouse (anyone know of a cheap replacement?), my microsoft WI-FI controller receiver, and a couple external harddrive enclosures.

So now I'm thinking maybe it the power supply in my apartment, so I go and get a voltage regulator, c/w battery backup and surge protection, $80 and everything works dandy. But what a fucking day...

Now I'm wondering what caused this. Bad power source? But I had it hooked up to a surge protector. Could it be my OC'd CPU and GPU drawing more voltage? You want to keep the voltage around 1.2V when maxed out? Right now I'm around 1.3-1.4V

I also picked up BC2, Medal of Honor and Crysis 2...

 

[Smokey]

I think the eyefinity experiment is over. Going to buy the LG W2442PA this week and some Benq BL2400PU...then save up for a 30" Dell and sell the Benq.

One TN for gaming, the Dell for graphic work.

What did you not like about eyefinity?

 

[RS4-]

What did you not like about eyefinity?

$$$ lol; granted it's still cheaper than buying one of those 30" displays from Apple/Dell/Samsung, etc.

Speaking of Samsung, there's a new SA850 panel coming out. Looks fairly interesting. Write-up here: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/monitors/display/samsung-sa850.html

 

[Kadey]

Yeah. I'd like to get me one of those fractal cases. Unless someone can find me something similar. I just want something that looks simple. 99% of the cases out there are ugly. Too many curves and stuff.

 

[Salsa]

question: Gtx 560Ti Twin Frozr with double fan, idling at 43-44°C and going up to 70°C after a benchmark

strikes me as a bit high?


edit: Dual monitor setup btw

 

[Rice-Eater]

3 parts later, my PC finally works again. First I ordered the video card, but I found out that my power supply didn't have the cables to power it. Then I ordered the power supply, but I accidentally broke the leg on my heat sink. After I got the new heat sink and fan everything works again. So the slightly updated PC feels nice so far but I need more power.

I'm not getting any of this stuff for another 3-4 months but I was curious. Is there much of a difference between the i5 2500k which seems to be a very popular choice and the i7 950/960? If there is I'd be willing to fork over the extra money, but if not then I'll just settle for the 2500k.

 

[Chesskid1]

iirc, eyefinity with diff resolutions is ok if you're on the desktop, but when it comes to gaming, it'll go by the lowest resolution.

Did come across this though: http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=338031

There are probably other fixes and such to get around the different resolution stuff.

I don't know about software that'll adjust your colors, I think most people either use the hardware calibrators or just find settings people use online.

i made a topic on rage3d about my question

http://www.rage3d.com/board/showthread.php?t=33979813

for eyefinity, apparently you can't mix portrait/landscape monitors and you have to use at least 3 monitors (not 2) otherwise it won't work. kinda bummed and seems like it should work but i guess i didn't research enough. not a big deal since eyefinity was just an extra i was going to try, but still kinda disappointing.

i remember using nvidia span to get games to stretch over two monitors generations ago.

 

[Hazaro]

So my new PC wasn't recognizing my USB devices last night. So I uninstalled all the USB controllers in device manager, and restarted. Unplugged the PC for a few hours, but nothing. Any new device I would insert wouldn't work. But my Bluetooth dongle was still working cause, I guess, I never removed it...... But then I removed it, and tried plugging it in to another port, and nothing. So then I try using these devices on my other PC....nothing. So now I have zero I/O devices. My mobo has no PS2 ports. So I reset the CMOS by removing the battery. Still NOTHING!

So I took it back to the shop that I bought it and the front USB connectors weren't connected to the right plug. But the rears were working fine. Needless to say I left the shop and it was working fine. So i get home from work and the same thing happens, nothing is working. So I take everything into work and start trying my devices there.

All of my USB devices that I hooked up to my PC were dead. So I hook up my PC at work and I tried some fresh USB devices there. They all worked. So basically my new PC fried a keyboard and mouse, my Bluetooth dongle for my logitech wireless keyboard and mouse (anyone know of a cheap replacement?), my microsoft WI-FI controller receiver, and a couple external harddrive enclosures.

So now I'm thinking maybe it the power supply in my apartment, so I go and get a voltage regulator, c/w battery backup and surge protection, $80 and everything works dandy. But what a fucking day...

Now I'm wondering what caused this. Bad power source? But I had it hooked up to a surge protector. Could it be my OC'd CPU and GPU drawing more voltage? You want to keep the voltage around 1.2V when maxed out? Right now I'm around 1.3-1.4V

I also picked up BC2, Medal of Honor and Crysis 2...

There might be a short somewhere (e.g. screw behind mobo).
If you have some kind of USB extra power or extra speed function I'd disable it possible as well.

question: Gtx 560Ti Twin Frozr with double fan, idling at 43-44°C and going up to 70°C after a benchmark

strikes me as a bit high?


edit: Dual monitor setup btw

Temps are fine. Check fan profile. Usually your temps might be the same, but you have a quieter cooler.

3 parts later, my PC finally works again. First I ordered the video card, but I found out that my power supply didn't have the cables to power it. Then I ordered the power supply, but I accidentally broke the leg on my heat sink. After I got the new heat sink and fan everything works again. So the slightly updated PC feels nice so far but I need more power.

I'm not getting any of this stuff for another 3-4 months but I was curious. Is there much of a difference between the i5 2500k which seems to be a very popular choice and the i7 950/960? If there is I'd be willing to fork over the extra money, but if not then I'll just settle for the 2500k.

The 2500K is on a new socket, faster, and is cheaper.

 

[TommyT]

MSI N570GTX back in stock at Newegg for 354.99



edit: woops, math dyslexia

 

[Hazaro]

MSI N570GTX back in stock at Newegg for 345.99

This Palit looks super nice.
Anyone picking up a Fractal R3 White should get one.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814261096

 

[Salsa]

Thanks Hazaro

 

[fin]

There might be a short somewhere (e.g. screw behind mobo).
If you have some kind of USB extra power or extra speed function I'd disable it possible as well.

Yup was playing battlefield BC2 today and the regulator got a surge and started beeping, quit the game and the beeping stopped.

 

[Cptkrush]

Ok, i've been messing around with my CPU clocks again, since i just got the 212+. I've been able to get my poor ol' 925 2.8ghz up to 3.6ghz stable and under 50C at full load in prime95. Would this be a safe OC or should i back down a little bit before it explodes on me?

I admit i'm completely new to OCing so I dunno what the limits are, however I have my FSB at 258, and I think I have my Voltage at like 1.4-something, which seems kinda high, but it's running well and relatively cool. Should I keep just keep it?

 

[Salsa]

i'll be storming this thread once i OC my i5 2500k, never done it before

any tips?

 

[Hazaro]

i'll be storming this thread once i OC my i5 2500k, never done it before

any tips?

Read guide in OP.
Use offset voltage
lock BLCK at 100
1.25V-1.31V
Aim for 4.3Ghz+

 

[toastyToast]

i'll be storming this thread once i OC my i5 2500k, never done it before

any tips?

Set your voltage to 1.3 then set your multiplier to 45. Done.

Spoiler

most 2500Ks can do this quite easily, just hope that you didn't wind up with a shitty one

edit: The guide in the OP is quite good. It really is a simple process.

 

[Hazaro]

Set your voltage to 1.3 then set your multiplier to 45. Done.

Spoiler

most 2500Ks can do this quite easily, just hope that you didn't wind up with a shitty one

edit: The guide in the OP is quite good. It really is a simple process.

I'd say 4.3Ghz
A ton can do 4.4Ghz, some can do 4.5

The big voltage wall crops up at 4.4 or 4.5Ghz where you need to add another 0.05V to jump up 0.1GHz

 

[·feist·]

Yeah. I'd like to get me one of those fractal cases. Unless someone can find me something similar. I just want something that looks simple. 99% of the cases out there are ugly. Too many curves and stuff.

Did you see my reply and suggestions to your last post?

Newegg updated today, and they've sold out. Next shipment ETA: 07/22/2011

Ok, i've been messing around with my CPU clocks again, since i just got the 212+. I've been able to get my poor ol' 925 2.8ghz up to 3.6ghz stable and under 50C at full load in prime95. Would this be a safe OC or should i back down a little bit before it explodes on me?

I admit i'm completely new to OCing so I dunno what the limits are, however I have my FSB at 258, and I think I have my Voltage at like 1.4-something, which seems kinda high, but it's running well and relatively cool. Should I keep just keep it?

You're comfortably below AMD's max recommended temps. Not sure if you've done much if any north bridge tweaking, but if you're satisfied with your OC, and it comfortably passes multiple hours of stress tests, you can try slowly reducing voltages. Should help you get lower temps, as well.

 

[Gvaz]

i'll be storming this thread once i OC my i5 2500k, never done it before

any tips?

Give me your processor bro :<

This x3 720 and HD4890 are starting to feel their age. And I want to upgrade to 2650x1440 or something later down the line too...

 

[Cptkrush]

You're comfortably below AMD's max recommended temps. Not sure if you've done much if any north bridge tweaking, but if you're satisfied with your OC, and it comfortably passes multiple hours of stress tests, you can try slowly reducing voltages. Should help you get lower temps, as well.

Going to start some hardcore stress testing tomorrow, and I'll also be getting a second fan for the 212+ so I can push/pull, that'll help temps a little bit at least. But so far, it's pretty stable on < full load, i only did prime95 for about 30 minutes and the 4th core failed, so it's definitely not completely ready. It may need some more juice or a little bit more on the NB.

I don't plan on going any higher than 3.6 any time soon, so hopefully I can get some good stability and decent temps. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Hazaro]

Second fan usually only lowers temps by like 3C. Not a big deal if you have a good back fan already.

 

[Vormund]

Mine's so messy. The cables were thick and while I could get them behind the motherboard, it was near impossible to get them to come back through and attach to the right spots inside...

What I did with an old build which had a fully modular PSU was to leave the cables in the sun for a while to soften up and make them pliable, then put them straight in.

My current PSU isn't fully modular so I'd have to leave the whole unit out in the sun. :/ I'll be getting a new PSU that's fully modular so I can clean up this current PC.

 

[mm04]

Wanted to give a big thanks to Hazaro for his OP. I built 3 of his $600 range boxes for my sister's 12 year old triplets. I used each exact part he suggested, just upgraded the hard drives to 1TB Spinpoints and used Coolermaster 310s for cases. Took about 6 hours total, including all 3 built without a hitch and Win7 and Steam installed before I left. They were incredibly happy with the performance of the games they played. I know it's not much, but I've got an extra copy of Sanctum you can have. PM me and I'll get it to you or you can can gift it to someone else. Thanks again.

 

[Ken]

I built 3 of his $600 range boxes for my sister's 12 year old triplets.

Apologies for the beginner's/basic questions but I was always under the impression that you need sound cards to get sound out of a computer but I didn't notice one being in that wishlist; is another computer part responsible for sound?

Also, which computer part provides USB ports and how many does the $600 build have?

 

[RumblingRosco]

Apologies for the beginner's/basic questions but I was always under the impression that you need sound cards to get sound out of a computer but I didn't notice one being in that wishlist; is another computer part responsible for sound?

Also, which computer part provides USB ports and how many does the $600 build have?

The motherboard provides audio and USB ports. That specific motherboard has 6 USB ports.

 

[·feist·]

The Dell U2412M has gone up for sale.

First of the new crop of higher end Dells using an LED light source.

Going to start some hardcore stress testing tomorrow, and I'll also be getting a second fan for the 212+ so I can push/pull, that'll help temps a little bit at least. But so far, it's pretty stable on < full load, i only did prime95 for about 30 minutes and the 4th core failed, so it's definitely not completely ready. It may need some more juice or a little bit more on the NB.

I don't plan on going any higher than 3.6 any time soon, so hopefully I can get some good stability and decent temps. Thanks for the advice!

Yeah, that's pretty unstable. I'd expect your max temps to rise a bit (not accounting for any additional fans), though it sounds like you're on your way.

 

[Sketch_Turntable]

Getting all of my PC parts in the mail tomorrow (outside of my SSD)....so i figured i'd start building it so i can just pop in the SSD and go when it gets here.

My only worry is installing the Hyper 212 on the CPU. Do i put the thermal paste on the CPU in the rice-grain style...or do i put the paste on the Cooler in a thin line?

 

[ConstructMe]

Smear ir on both with a credit card is what cm reccomend due to the direct heat pipe design

 

[professor_t]

Last summer I was going to take the plunge and build my own PC, but at the last minute I completely wussed out and bought a Gateway PC on sale for nearly the same price as the build I had assembled. Here's the PC:

http://reviews.cnet.com/desktops/gateway-fx6831-01/4507-3118_7-34048068.html?tag=mncolBtm;rnav

My question is this -- accounting for power consumption, cooling issues, etc., what options do I have in terms of getting a better card? Money really isn't an issue. I'm hoping to get something that clearly outperforms my 5850, but acts as a stop-gap until I get a new PC when we see the next big leap in GPU capabilities.

Fair warning: I am pretty clueless when it comes to this stuff. Any help at all would be appreciated.