"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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LordCanti said:
The last time I needed to install W7, I upgraded from the upgrade disc. It was a pain to have to install W7 twice in one day, but it activated with no problems, so I guess that was kosher. The whole idea of an "upgrade" disc is stupid anyway, but I'd sooner "upgrade" than do a workaround that could cause issues later (if it does. I really don't know)
That was the workaround, haha I remember now. It was a pain, I had to do it when I installed after a format, I ended up having to use phone activation in order for it to work though.
 
Ugh reinstalled BC2 and have to redownload the damn patch/update. PC still locks up during random gaming sessions of BC2.

Going to play other games and see if my PC still hardlocks.

Can't check event logs or anything as nothing shows up other than telling me my pc was unexpectedly shut down
 
Anyone have or use a razor Hydra?I game from my couch so the keyboard and mouse can be a bit much at times. How does this system work? What games does it work with and will it give me mouse control in the Windows7 environment! Thanks for any and all feedback.
 
SenseiJinx said:
What 6950 1GB would you recommend? Most of the ones I've looked at are still in the $230 or so range, which isn't too much less than the MSI N560GTX-TI Twin Frozr II/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (the one at Newegg is $235 or so after a rebate).

When you say the 6950 1GB gives more performance at stock speeds, do you mean that the stock 6950 gives you better performance than the stock GTX 560 Ti, or that the stock 6950 gives you a bit better performance over the factory overclocked 560 Ti? Just curious, since that card I mentioned above is factory overclocked, right? I'm guessing it would perform better than the 6950, out of the box at least?

Sorry, there's so many choices for graphics cards, haha. So hard to make a choice.

The 6950s 1GB will give more performance at stock than stock 560Ti and generally 560 Ti factory overclocks because most factory overclocks really don't do much in terms of increasing performance.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161373

This one is apretty good buy because it comes with extra cooling for more reliable overclocking. The difference between the factory overclocked 560 Ti from the stock 6950 can range from 2-9 frames depending on the game. Also, with the 6950 you can further overclock it to greater effect in performance gain percentage wise than you could further overclock the already factory overclocked 560 Ti.

You may also like to look at this one. I haven't heard anything particular about sapphire's card but this one does come with a rebate, dual fans, and I've had good experiences with their cards in the past.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102949
 
Chinner said:
Danke, will drop the PSU down to 600w.

Edit: is there any real difference between:
http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/prods/components/powersupplies/ocz/ocz600mxsp-uk.html
and
http://www.novatech.co.uk/novatech/prods/components/powersupplies/novatech/nov-psu650.html
>


Makes sense.


Novatech (but I'm going to price check). Those prices don't include VAT shamefully, but the total price I listed is VAT included.


Edit:
Monitor suggestions?
one of my friends suggested this

Hmm how about this Sammy for £135 with Dirt 3 included?

http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Monitors/23%26quot%3B+Monitors/23%22+Samsung+S23A350H+Widescreen+LED+Monitor+-+Glossy+Black+with+FREE+Dirt+3+Game+%2B+FREE+Shipping+?productId=45577

Seems to be a good price compared to everywhere else.

Also is a gtx580 absolutely essential?, IMO I think it'd be best to get a 560ti for now and get a better case and psu and maybe squeeze a 120gb SSD in there too :p Aria have a OCZ solid sata III 120gb for £145 at the monent.

Edit- I have a spare unopened and unused Coolermaster 212 Hyper cpu cooler and unused but no boxed Coolermaster GX750w PSU if you're interested I got them with my HAF X case that I bought a few weeks back but I already had better alternatives pm me if you're interested.
 
Damn, tried to do 4.8GHz with 1.4 and it crashed after a bit. I think I'll just stick with a typical 4GHz until I really need the extra processing power.
 
WonkersTHEWatilla said:
Wowowow, is Crysis 2 supposed to set my gpu on fire (edit: not literally)? 80-84c an hour playing on my GTX580. It's Oc'd, but modestly (about 870).

Btw, thanks to Hazaro for answering my questions on the previous couple pages. You don't get thanked enough, man.
Those temps are fine.
Appreciate it.
Ryan_ said:
How about triple channel?

Also, is 6 gb or 8 gb overkill if you're not into serious video editing but just regular gaming?
0 performance benefit for triple channel. Pure gaming 4 is fine. You can always add.
Chinner said:
no SSD at the moment, if i didn't have to buy a monitor i would defo get one, but i'll get one eventually.

don't tempt me gaf :(

also, any monitor suggestions?

edit:

by going 600w am i limiting myself if i ever want to overclock?
600W more than enough.
legend166 said:
So, my PC isn't booting. It just sits at the motherboard screen. I can't even get into the UEFI setup screen or anything because the keyboard doesn't work.
Is your keyboard in a USB 3.0 slot? Move that.
Use 1 stick of RAM.
Check manual for lights and beep codes.
Take out system from case and run it bare minimum and see if it starts.
Double check all connectors by hand.
 
I'm having a hard time visualizing a HTPC that wouldn't be a hot volcanic death trap for components. I'm running a R3 and I was able to get amazing cable management (with a non modular) and aiflow with the thing, but I've been considering replacing it with a HTPC tower and sticking it in my entertainment center (I PC game only on my HDTV anyways). But I'm having a hard time imagining my non modular power supply, 560 Ti, and heatsink fitting in one without it being a complete mess.
 
Coldsnap said:
I'm having a hard time visualizing a HTPC that wouldn't be a hot volcanic death trap for components. I'm running a R3 and I was able to get amazing cable management (with a non modular) and aiflow with the thing, but I've been considering replacing it with a HTPC tower and sticking it in my entertainment center (I PC game only on my HDTV anyways). But I'm having a hard time imagining my non modular power supply, 560 Ti, and heatsink fitting in one without it being a complete mess.

Some HTPC cases are the size of a regular mid tower, except turned horizontally. Your components should fit without issue, and heat shouldn't really be a problem, as long as there is adequate ventilation (don't put it in an enclosed space, for instance).
 
LordCanti said:
Some HTPC cases are the size of a regular mid tower, except turned horizontally. Your components should fit without issue, and heat shouldn't really be a problem, as long as there is adequate ventilation (don't put it in an enclosed space, for instance).

Are there any good recommendations for one? I would like it to be as silent as my R3
 
im watching the tutorial and im putting the ram in. simple enough but he says to make sure you're putting it into the appropriate slot or performance will be affected. i have a p67 extreme4 motherboard.... there are 4 slots. 2 blue (A1/B1) and 2 white (A2/B2). i'm assuming i should put both of the ram sticks into the blue slots.... is that correct?
 
toasty_T said:
If you're using 2 sticks make sure the slots you're putting them in are the same color.

but it doesn't really matter if i put the two in the white slots or the blue slots just so long as they are in the identical color slot?
 
Coldsnap said:
Are there any good recommendations for one? I would like it to be as silent as my R3

That's kind of a tall order, since the R3 has a copious amount of acoustic foam inside of it. Have you considered turning the R3 on its side, and using it as an HTPC case?

(I don't really have any HTPC case recommendations. I really liked the look of that Silverstone model someone used in a build a lot of pages back, but I don't remember the model number, and he never mentioned acoustics.)
 
RS4- said:
Damn, tried to do 4.8GHz with 1.4 and it crashed after a bit. I think I'll just stick with a typical 4GHz until I really need the extra processing power.
The sweet spot are 4.4-4.5Ghz. The voltages needed to go high are usually much higher.
 
Cptkrush said:
Download the iso version and burn it to a disc using an image burning program. However 29.99 is for the upgrade version, and I'm not sure you can install it onto a fresh HDD without issues.

I installed the Windows 7 upgrade version perfectly on a new HDD using this guide:

http://www.winsupersite.com/article/windows-7/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media

Activated like a charm. I already had Windows XP, so it was really just a matter of making it easier to install on the new HDD rather than having to go through the pain of installing XP on it first and then upgrading.

The 6950s 1GB will give more performance at stock than stock 560Ti and generally 560 Ti factory overclocks because most factory overclocks really don't do much in terms of increasing performance.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814161373

This one is apretty good buy because it comes with extra cooling for more reliable overclocking. The difference between the factory overclocked 560 Ti from the stock 6950 can range from 2-9 frames depending on the game. Also, with the 6950 you can further overclock it to greater effect in performance gain percentage wise than you could further overclock the already factory overclocked 560 Ti.

You may also like to look at this one. I haven't heard anything particular about sapphire's card but this one does come with a rebate, dual fans, and I've had good experiences with their cards in the past.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814102949

Awesome, thanks for the tips. Helps point me in the right direction.
 
I'm running mine in a HAF 922.....it sits next to me whole entertainment unit. I had no more room on my racks to store an HTPC in there. I was also scared to have it in such an enclosed space!! The lighting is awful but I think it's concealed pretty well. I thought about hiding it in a closet and running all extension cables out to the home entertainment area but decided against it. This is in my one bedroom apartment. I need to keep it nice and neat for my wife! I can even use the edge of the entertainment stand as a desk to game from. Kills my back though! Thus I'm searching for some new control methods


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The Teachinator said:
I'm running mine in a HAF 922.....it sits next to me whole entertainment unit. I had no more room on my racks to store an HTPC in there. I was also scared to have it in such an enclosed space!! The lighting is awful but I think it's concealed pretty well. I thought about hiding it in a closet and running all extension cables out to the home entertainment area but decided against it. This is in my one bedroom apartment. I need to keep it nice and neat for my wife! I can even use the edge of the entertainment stand as a desk to game from. Kills my back though! Thus I'm searching for some new control methods

Yah, I have a antec 300 just sitting next to my entertainment unit. While I understand the desire for HTPC cases since they can be very slick looking, ATX cases are just so much more convenient and are really just black boxes, just like receivers, the PS3, most DVRs, etc. It looks perfectly fine, and mine doesn't glow any weird colors.
 
FrenchMovieTheme said:
but it doesn't really matter if i put the two in the white slots or the blue slots just so long as they are in the identical color slot?
Your motherboard manual will say which slots are preferred.
The Teachinator said:
I'm running mine in a HAF 922.....it sits next to me whole entertainment unit. I had no more room on my racks to store an HTPC in there. I was also scared to have it in such an enclosed space!! The lighting is awful but I think it's concealed pretty well. I thought about hiding it in a closet and running all extension cables out to the home entertainment area but decided against it. This is in my one bedroom apartment. I need to keep it nice and neat for my wife! I can even use the edge of the entertainment stand as a desk to game from. Kills my back though! Thus I'm searching for some new control methods
Turn off those LED's :[
 
The Teachinator said:
I'm running mine in a HAF 922.....it sits next to me whole entertainment unit. I had no more room on my racks to store an HTPC in there. I was also scared to have it in such an enclosed space!! The lighting is awful but I think it's concealed pretty well. I thought about hiding it in a closet and running all extension cables out to the home entertainment area but decided against it. This is in my one bedroom apartment. I need to keep it nice and neat for my wife! I can even use the edge of the entertainment stand as a desk to game from. Kills my back though! Thus I'm searching for some new control methods

You can turn off the LEDs with a switch next to the reset button.
 
Does he have one of those Coolermaster side fans, as there's a lot of light coming from there? If so, those can't be controlled, unless you rewire them. If you hate the LED, you can always just cut the LED cable though.
 
I second the notion of cutting the LED cables, flipping some switches, and being done with it.

Unless you want to look further into the "put it in a closet" route. I spent $50 at monoprice for cables to put my gaming rig in a closet, and I couldn't be happier. There is a big difference between a "quiet" PC, and not hearing your PC at all.
 
LordCanti said:
I second the notion of cutting the LED cables, flipping some switches, and being done with it.

Unless you want to look further into the "put it in a closet" route. I spent $50 at monoprice for cables to put my gaming rig in a closet, and I couldn't be happier. There is a big difference between a "quiet" PC, and not hearing your PC at all.

Yeah as far as the lights I meant my room lighting for the picture. Lol. The LEDs don't bother me too much. The unit is pretty quiet. I have the 212 on the 2600 and the 580 isn't too loud. It's no louder than my 360S. The closet is an option though in the future. It's pretty tucked away though and people don't really notice it. (I shut the led off when guests are over).
 
·feist· said:
Some hijinks on Dell's part. It's an Alienware Aurora R3, under "Desktop Inventory."

Looks like larvi covered it.


Baring any NetBurst-like hiccups (very unlikely with modern Intel roadmaps), I'd have to say "tock" would be the best overall proposition. "Ticks" have the benefit of power consumption, leakage and other arch tweaks, but "tocks" come with the pluses of a mature process, presumably superior new arch, and other pros. As much as users are annoyed at always having to buy a new board for each Intel CPU debut, one of the things you get with the newer PCBs is interconnect advancements, which would require add-in cards or revisions on an older socket. That said, there's very little reason that s-1156 couldn't have had two "tocks," but Intel opted not to release SB on it. Within their broader picture, the change does make sense, though.

Thanks buddy, the more you know.
 
LordCanti said:
I second the notion of cutting the LED cables, flipping some switches, and being done with it.

Unless you want to look further into the "put it in a closet" route. I spent $50 at monoprice for cables to put my gaming rig in a closet, and I couldn't be happier. There is a big difference between a "quiet" PC, and not hearing your PC at all.

What wirless mouse and keyboard do you have? I've found some of them to have such a short range that it would never go through a closet.
 
Coldsnap said:
What wirless mouse and keyboard do you have? I've found some of them to have such a short range that it would never go through a closet.
I personally would run a powered USB hub through the wall and then store it under the couch. I'd plug the mouse and keyboard in from there. I'm also working in a small space so that helps with wire management issues.
 
I decided I'm going to head up to TigerDirect tuesday and pick up a new case before I order my 6950. I'm eyeing the HAF 922, but may pick up a 932 if they have one. Anyone have experience with either/both of these that would be able to let me know if the 932 is worth the extra 50 bucks for size/cooling?

I saw a lot of people complaining about the size/price on the 922 and telling other people to just go with the 932, seeing as how I trust GAF over a lot of random forums, I'd like to hear what you guys think.
 
Cptkrush said:
I decided I'm going to head up to TigerDirect tuesday and pick up a new case before I order my 6950. I'm eyeing the HAF 922, but may pick up a 932 if they have one. Anyone have experience with either/both of these that would be able to let me know if the 932 is worth the extra 50 bucks for size/cooling?

I saw a lot of people complaining about the size/price on the 922 and telling other people to just go with the 932, seeing as how I trust GAF over a lot of random forums, I'd like to hear what you guys think.

Head up to TigerDirect? where u live?
 
JJBro One said:
I'm willing to spend 2k on a rig, it's mandatory that Battlefield 3 runs at 60 fps on max settings.

To be honest, I think 2k is way overkill. You'd be able to get the top of the line everything with that. The problem is your performance wouldn't be significantly higher than a $1,000 build. Certainly not a jump worth twice the amount, in my opinion. And the turnaround on computer parts is such that it would still be behind the mark in a few years. Future proofing really doesn't work too well.

If you really want to spend $2,000 I'd recommend dipping about $1,200 tops in the machine, and maybe use the rest to buy a really nice monitor and some accessories or something...you'd most likely be able to build a $1,200 machine that could max out BF3.

Just my opinion, though.
 
SenseiJinx said:
To be honest, I think 2k is way overkill. You'd be able to get the top of the line everything with that. The problem is your performance wouldn't be significantly higher than a $1,000 build. Certainly not a jump worth twice the amount, in my opinion. And the turnaround on computer parts is such that it would still be behind the mark in a few years. Future proofing really doesn't work too well.

If you really want to spend $2,000 I'd recommend dipping about $1,200 tops in the machine, and maybe use the rest to buy a really nice monitor and some accessories or something...you'd most likely be able to build a $1,200 machine that could max out BF3.

Just my opinion, though.
Don't give him false hopes. No one knows what that is going to require, probably not even DICE at this point.
 
mkenyon said:
Don't give him false hopes. No one knows what that is going to require, probably not even DICE at this point.

True.

In that case, I would recommend waiting for a bit to build, so you have a better idea what the requirements would be. Probably give some time for Bulldozer to come out as well.

Again, all my opinions. I'm not an expert on these things, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
 
Hey guys, I am looking to build a new machine in december. Given that time frame, should I go with a sandy bridge, or just wait for ivy? I know I can just go with sandybridge in december and upgrade to ivy when its release but the hassle of resale, I'm quite positive it will end up in my closet of pc junk.

If I were to built today I would jump on the i5 2500k so fast. But since it has to be december and I am hearing ivy in early 2012....

my current rig is a 8600 oc to 4ghz.
 
Coldsnap said:
What wirless mouse and keyboard do you have? I've found some of them to have such a short range that it would never go through a closet.

I've got a (powered) USB hub on my desk, attached to the computer via an (active!) USB cable (50ft long or so). I've got a USB DAC (for audio), a mouse, keyboard, etc, attached to the hub. From there it was only a matter of hooking up really long ethernet, power, and HDMI cables. All the cables are run along the baseboard.

I don't suggest it unless your closet is of the walk-in variety. I'm not sure how a PC would fare in a regular sized closet (unless the door was open, I guess).
 
I'm looking into what's the best SSD to get. Can anyone here give me a recommendations (happy to spend £220/$350)? Thanks in advance!
 
JJBro One said:
I'm willing to spend 2k on a rig, it's mandatory that Battlefield 3 runs at 60 fps on max settings.
$2k is way too expensive for a pc you can build yourself.

Even if you're buying new everything, $2,000 is still overkill and chances are you're buying bleeding edge components which will be outdated by cheaper shit soon after (especially in this lull we have going right now)

Port over stuff like keyboards, monitor, etc unless you need to change those to something else. Hard drives, OS install, etc things like that. Suddenly a computer that could run BF3 at a reasonable fps is now more like 800 or 1000 tops.
 
ok i have the motherboard in and i'm connecting the cables from the front of a diablotek EVO. most of them are labeled, but i have one that says "VCC D- D+ GND GND". it is a 4 prong with the 2nd GND covered up. where do i plug this in on the motherboard?

also, i have:

HDD LED
RESET SW
POWER SW

but on the motherboard the only corresponding input i find is "reset". near that i have:

HD LED
PLED
PWRBTN

they all have pluses next to them. i can guess the HD LED = HDD LED and PWRBTN = POWER SW, but how do i know how to plug them in? is it vertical or horizontal and how do i know which side is positive and negative?
 
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