"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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viakado said:
how about water coolers?
like h80/100?


will do. thx for the headsup

maybe ... 4.5 on air should always be possible, higher depends on the amount of voltage needed (going near 1.4v on air = high temps under load with most coolers)

I'm running 4.8 now at close to 1.4v on custom-watercooling , it needs a lot more volt to get near 5 so not really worth the effort (already reduced my chips overclocking ability by running for a week at 1.45v)

---
if the psu is a quality 550w it should work out, if it is not then swap it for at least a Corsair TX/HX650
 
n0n44m said:
maybe ... 4.5 on air should always be possible, higher depends on the amount of voltage needed (going near 1.4v on air = high temps under load with most coolers)

I'm running 4.8 now at close to 1.4v on custom-watercooling , it needs a lot more volt to get near 5 so not really worth the effort (already reduced my chips overclocking ability by running for a week at 1.45v)

---
if the psu is a quality 550w it should work out, if it is not then swap it for at least a Corsair TX/HX650

The PSU won't work regardless since 580s need 600w minimum.
 
n0n44m said:
maybe ... 4.5 on air should always be possible, higher depends on the amount of voltage needed (going near 1.4v on air = high temps under load with most coolers)

I'm running 4.8 now at close to 1.4v on custom-watercooling , it needs a lot more volt to get near 5 so not really worth the effort (already reduced my chips overclocking ability by running for a week at 1.45v)

---
if the psu is a quality 550w it should work out, if it is not then swap it for at least a Corsair TX/HX650
custom water cooling?
do tell.
 
mkenyon said:
Oh good lawd. H100 review is out. This outperforms two of my friends' custom water loops on the same proc. Considering my case is built with this thing in mind, day 1. And to think, I just took 2 hours of time installing a Venomous X.

more likable than the H70, but I do hope fans can go lower than the 1300 rpm mentioned in the specs list (Speed: 1300~2500 RPM) ...

also your friends are doing something very wrong :p
 
Tallshortman said:
The PSU won't work regardless since 580s need 600w minimum.

crappy 600w < good 550w

I'm running a Corsair HX650 with a heavily overvolted GTX480 (which draws a lot more Watts) and still got plenty left according to the kill-a-watt (taking efficiency into account) =]


viakado said:
custom water cooling?
do tell.

posted about it here and some more pics somewhere else in the topic which I can't find atm :p
 
n0n44m said:
crappy 600w < good 550w

I'm running a Corsair HX650 with a heavily overvolted GTX480 (which draws a lot more Watts) and still got plenty left according to the kill-a-watt (taking efficiency into account) =]




posted about it here and some more pics somewhere else in the topic which I can't find atm :p
wow very impressive.
must be absolutely silent.
i just got a hardon.
 
viakado said:
so i got my new rig.

i7 2600k OC @ 3.9ghz
12GB RAM @ 1600mhz
psu: 550w
cooler master case.

i plan on upgrading my gpu to a gtx 580 this fall when bf3 hits.
i also do a lot of 3d rendering and video editing.
would it be possible to clock my cpu to 5.0+ghz?
and what kind of fan would i need to achieve that?
You'll want a serious OC'ing board like the Maximus IV Gene/Extreme. I've personally OC'd a 2600K to 5.1 @ 1.5V with a Corsair H50 cooler. On the previous page, I have a link to the H100 review that just released on Hard OCP, and those temps are better than a lot of custom loops I've seen.

So, it is possible, but you run the risk of frying your proc. Tis the world of extreme performance though.
 
mkenyon said:
You'll want a serious OC'ing board like the Maximus IV Gene/Extreme. I've personally OC'd a 2600K to 5.1 @ 1.5V with a Corsair H50 cooler. On the previous page, I have a link to the H100 review that just released on Hard OCP, and those temps are better than a lot of custom loops I've seen.

So, it is possible, but you run the risk of frying your proc. Tis the world of extreme performance though.

errr ... for how long did you run at that speed/voltage ?

those seem like nice settings for benchmarking but I wouldn't want to run them 24/7 with stuff like 3D rendering and Video Editing
 
RS4- said:
Viakado, you can look here for examples: http://www.overclock.net/

Various OC settings, what it took it get there, etc.
thank you.
mkenyon said:
You'll want a serious OC'ing board like the Maximus IV Gene/Extreme. I've personally OC'd a 2600K to 5.1 @ 1.5V with a Corsair H50 cooler. On the previous page, I have a link to the H100 review that just released on Hard OCP, and those temps are better than a lot of custom loops I've seen.

So, it is possible, but you run the risk of frying your proc. Tis the world of extreme performance though.
i currently have an asus p8h67m pro.
yeah im leaning towards that h100.
 
n0n44m said:
errr ... for how long did you run at that speed/voltage ?

those seem like nice settings for benchmarking but I wouldn't want to run them 24/7 with stuff like 3D rendering and Video Editing
It was running at that speed for two days. Not my system, one of the RoG team's test benches to show off the new hotness before they launched the Maximus IV.
 
mkenyon said:
It was running at that speed for two days. Not my system, one of the RoG team's test benches to show off the new hotness before they launched the Maximus IV.

after a week at 1.45v 5ghz mine started BSOD'ing unless I gave it more volts

then I discovered my "default" OC of 4.5 1.3v also wasn't stable anymore, needed more volts as well :(

basically everything above 1.4v is not advisable for 24/7 usage :p


viakado said:
overclocked mine at 3.9ghz though.
guess i'll be in the market for a new mobo.

won't do much more I think, maybe 4.2 or something through some obscure setting I can't remember but to use the -K (unlocked multiplier) ability you'll need a P67/Z68 board

Asus p8p67 pro, or the newer z68 equivalent are nice. Maximus series are even nicer but very expensive
 
mkenyon said:
Yes. Scythe Gentle Typhoons are regarded as the best. Yate Loon also makes some damn fine ones.

WTF at that first fan price. The Yate Loon isn't that bad on price (seems like the best option here). However, are there other differences (benchmarks?) that are important besides CFM? This NZXT fan for example moves about the same CFM.

Horsemama1956 said:
If you don't want t spend $20+ on a fan, Cooler Master Sickle R4s are good for $8-9 each. I have 3 or 4 and they work nicely.

Only a hand full of places sell those according to froogle, and they want quite a bit for shipping.
 
I've got 3 Yate-Loon 140 SL(ow) and 6 Y-L 140 SM(edium) on my radiator, those are pretty decent for the price

I've also got 3 Yate-Loon 120 SL(ow) as casefans, but I don't really like them when running on a lower speed; far too much rattling noise which makes them about as annoying at 500 as at 900 rpm :(

I'm gonna switch those 3 for Gentle Typhoons as they should have an absolutely god-like noise/performance ratio and extremely smooth and silent bearings

---
CFM is the most important performance related statistic (pressure can be as well but shouldn't matter for non-extreme applications)

as for noise ... well above a certain CFM/RPM the air will always make noise so there will never be silence, and at low rpm's the quality of the fan's motor/bearings play a large role (hence the pricey Gentle Typhoons)

no use to buy some extra high quality fans if you still use the default fans in the rest of the case though (!), as those will be loudest anyway ... so either swap all fans or just stick to fans with the same RPM as the default ones
 
I know next to nothing on what's up in the SSD world so I'm wondering which was a good one to get that isn't hard on the wallet (I guess 120gb should be enough)? I already have my rig setup and all, but it feels like I'm missing out without an SSD drive.
 
TheExodu5 said:
There's a lot more to the story than sequential read/write. Random read/write is very important, as is the ability to recover to nearly full speeds after garbage collection. Reliability of the controller is also key.

I'd wait for a review.

I'm pretty anxious to see reviews, because that might be a very promising drive. The fact that it comes with a 10 year warranty is impressive.

Yea, turns out it's a brand new product: http://www.storagereview.com/sandisk_launches_new_ultra_ssd_line

Looks reliable though - but you're right about probably waiting for some reviews. SanDisk's goal with these drives seems to be to target the budget-friendly crowd. I hope it works out for them.
 
DigiMish said:
Yea, turns out it's a brand new product: http://www.storagereview.com/sandisk_launches_new_ultra_ssd_line

Looks reliable though - but you're right about probably waiting for some reviews. SanDisk's goal with these drives seems to be to target the budget-friendly crowd. I hope it works out for them.

$40 cheaper than the Intel offering, but still around the same price that I've seen other 120GB drives on sale.

Someone is going to clean up if they can get their prices closer to a dollar per gigabyte. Until then, these larger SSD's just don't seem like that great of a deal (to me anyway; Not that the cheaper drives are any more of a bargain).
 
garath said:
Just a random tip guys, when buying from newegg be sure to check combos for everything in your cart. I found a $25 combo discount for the exact motherboard and cpu I was buying anyways. I would have never spotted it if it wasn't for a hardocp ad while I was reading reviews. Made me double check all my components for combo discounts.

Something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...ubCategory=280&SortField=0&PageSize=10&page=1

To view combos for an item, scroll all the way down on an item's page and click "Browse more combos".

This may be common knowledge around these parts but I've been using newegg for years and years and I always forget about the combo.

Nice, thanks for the tip! I knew about combos, but had never really clicked "Browse more combos". There's tons and tons of combo's for the i5 2500k, with $25 or so off for motherboard, PSU, and case combo's. If you're looking into a processor, you really should check out the extra combos. I'm fairly certain I'll get either one of the mobo or PSU combos now.
 
Kadey said:
The hyper212 is good enough to get a 2500k to 4ghz? Should I get something more powerful?

4ghz should be no problem with the H212.

I just got my 8-pin CPU extension from NZXT, so that I can flip my PSU. I hope this is as simple as flipping the PSU over and screwing it back in.
 
Hey guys, I've been wanting to build a PC for a while, but having no prior experience I don't really know where to start. This is what I'm looking for.

Your Current Specs: N/A (No desktop)
Budget: $700 (If at all possible) USA
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation, Possibly video editing
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Witcher 2, Battlefield 3, any upcoming title
Are reusing any parts?: None
When will you build?: Within the next month most likely
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe

Is this at all possible? What is the least amount of money I would have to spend to get something like this?
 
Picked up the HAF 922 at tiger direct today, swapped in my parts: MY GOD is there a lot of room in there. For a mid tower, this thing i huge. The cable management is brilliant as well, I only have 3 or 4 visible cables now. Even my temps have dropped about 8C. All in all, I'm very impressed with this thing, and it was only 90 bucks.

Here's a question though, would it be better to put a single 200mm fan on the side or two 120s?
 
"AMD Athlon II X4 640 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor, 5GB DDR3 memory"
thats what I'm thinking of ordering. what a good budget graphics card to match up with this? I'm thing GTS 450. yea or nay? how would that play witcher 2?
I can get a I3 550 for 70 bucks more. worth it?
 
Hey GAF, any last-minute advice for my build? I just want to click that damn Place your order button man, I'm so excited.

My budget is 800$. So here's my build (I already have a 1920x1080 monitor):
wRn0p.png


Does my PSU have enough juice for this? I may add one more hard drives and one blu ray burner down the road.

I'm not planning to use two or more GPUs, just one. How capable of 1080p gaming is this machine? I'm not that crazy about it though, if it doesn't run a game well in Full settings I'll just lower things to make it playable.

Thanks in advance!
 
Someone from overclock.net made a spreadsheet for 12 hour prime stable OCs including voltage, temps and cooling.

Pretty useful to gauge what you might be able to get. Keep in mind that some of these dudes are willing to go to 1.4V so ignore those unless you have excellent cooling.
 
rvo said:
Hey GAF, any last-minute advice for my build? I just want to click that damn Place your order button man, I'm so excited.

Looks good to me! The PSU is more than enough.

The only thing I'd recommend you consider is a slight upgrade to a bit better case:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZM7YTA/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Better drive bays. Better cable management. Better cooling. No black interior, sadly, but an incredibly functional case for $55. Since you bothered with a modular PSU, I figure you might appreciate a more flexible and easier to work with case.

Also, add these to your build:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0SKBW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Zip ties are extremely handy for cleaning things up. Basically you'll be routing all the cables through the hole at the bottom and into the back of the case. Those zip ties will tie on to little hooks in the back and help you organize the cables.

(these are just suggestions...what you have is fine though)
 
sk3tch said:
I'm rollin' 4.7 GHz @ 1.41v on my Hyper 212+ with i5 2500k. Thing rocks.
HWmonitor shows max 1.46V and 1.424V when the screenshot was taken idling. Scare to see what voltages and temps you get when running Prime95 small fft. Definitely, not 1.41V. Too high for 24/7 overclock. Personally, I wouldn't even go over 1.35V, but that's your call.
 
knitoe said:
HWmonitor shows max 1.46V and 1.424V when the screenshot was taken. Definitely, not 1.41V. Too high for 24/7 overclock. Personally, I wouldn't even go over 1.35V, but that's your call.
An Asus rep has a pretty lengthy guide on how to OC on their P67 boardS and whoever it is advices 1.425V as the ceiling for 24/7 OCs. Going any higher won't void your warranty though.

As for me I went as high as 1.35V would allow which luckily for me was pretty high.
 
toasty_T said:
An Asus rep has a pretty lengthy guide on how to OC on their P67 boardS and whoever it is advices 1.425V as the ceiling for 24/7 OCs. Going any higher won't void your warranty though.

As for me I went as high as 1.35V would allow which luckily for me was pretty high.
Most recommend 1.35V and under for 24/7. The Asus guide is a good starting point, but I have found many recommended settings aren't needed.

The warranty is through Intel. Have they stated somewhere they you can damage your CPU with high voltage and still be under warranty?
 
4.4 - 4.5 is my 2500k sweet spot. Too much voltage and heat @ 4.7 to bother for me. I just auto'ed it to 4.4. Done. Not bad for a a $35 motherboard :)
 
knitoe said:
HWmonitor shows max 1.46V and 1.424V when the screenshot was taken idling. Scare to see what voltages and temps you get when running Prime95 small fft. Definitely, not 1.41V. Too high for 24/7 overclock. Personally, I wouldn't even go over 1.35V, but that's your call.

The mobo will give the CPU more voltage as needed. I forget the name of the BIOS setting now but it's perfect. Helps you get that last nudge for stability. It's set to 1.41v. And yes, typically is uses a tad more.

You guys can do what you want with your OCs. I've been doing this for over a decade and I know what I'm doing. I bench for stability for hours and monitor temps the entire time. That screenshot you saw of all the utils running? That's on 24/7 while I use my computer: gaming, browsing, etc. - dual monitor setup. I like to tweak. It's fun. If I "burn out" my $170 i5 2500k then oh well. But trust me temperature-wise under load it is well within the safety parameters Intel has set for their processor.

I've been running since March like this.


knitoe said:
Most recommend 1.35V and under for 24/7. The Asus guide is a good starting point, but I have found many recommended settings aren't needed.

The warranty is through Intel. Have they stated somewhere they you can damage your CPU with high voltage and still be under warranty?

Voltage is not nearly as important as the temperature of the CPU. Obviously, as you set the voltage higher - the temperature will rise.
 
TheExodu5 said:
Looks good to me! The PSU is more than enough.

The only thing I'd recommend you consider is a slight upgrade to a bit better case:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZM7YTA/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Better drive bays. Better cable management. Better cooling. No black interior, sadly, but an incredibly functional case for $55. Since you bothered with a modular PSU, I figure you might appreciate a more flexible and easier to work with case.

Also, add these to your build:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C0SKBW/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Zip ties are extremely handy for cleaning things up. Basically you'll be routing all the cables through the hole at the bottom and into the back of the case. Those zip ties will tie on to little hooks in the back and help you organize the cables.

(these are just suggestions...what you have is fine though)

That case does look pretty sweet indeed. And cheap too. Will try to post pics when everything is up and running.

Thanks!
 
Looking at cases, kind of leaning towards the HAF 922. I like the look better than the HAF 912. I'm running an older Cooler Master case (not a HAF) right now, and I like it, but it kind of needs an upgrade. (Plus, I'm planning on using this current case for some other projects.)

Those of you with one, would you recommend it?

And I'm assuming it's wide enough to fit a Hyper 212+ no problem?
 
SenseiJinx said:
Looking at cases, kind of leaning towards the HAF 922. I like the look better than the HAF 912. I'm running a Cooler Master case right now, and I like it, but it kind of needs an upgrade. (Plus, I'm planning on using this current case for some other projects.)

Those of you with one, would you recommend it? I at least like the look of it better than the 912.

And I'm assuming it's wide enough to fit a Hyper 212+ no problem?

It's a worthwhile upgrade over the 922 if you want better cooling and more space to work with. Incredibly easy case to work with.
 
TheExodu5 said:
It's a worthwhile upgrade over the 922 if you want better cooling and more space to work with. Incredibly easy case to work with.
This is really, really nice. See my post above, I've only owned the case a few hours and I'm in love with it.
 
Cptkrush said:
This is really, really nice. See my post above, I've only owned the case a few hours and I'm in love with it.

Oh nice, I guess I missed your post. Run into any problems with it? Sounds like it was worth the price.

I like the cooling options it gives, I think. The fact that it comes by default with a rear 120mm fan, a top 200mm and a front 200mm is very nice (as well as options to add more) seems pretty cool.

Quick question, how does it look in person? The pictures look fairly nice, not sure how much I like the front panel design (better than the 912, though). Still kind of hard to gauge through pics.
 
SenseiJinx said:
Oh nice, I guess I missed your post. Run into any problems with it? Sounds like it was worth the price.

I like the cooling options it gives, I think. The fact that it comes by default with a rear 120mm fan, a top 200mm and a front 200mm is very nice (as well as options to add more) seems pretty cool.
I haven't really run into any problems, other than the fact that it's silver inside instead of black. But that's not a big deal at all, in fact, I would call it nitpicking. The cooling dropped my temps a bit, so its pretty fantastic. All in all, I'm not sure I could have made a better choice for 89.99
 
sk3tch said:
The mobo will give the CPU more voltage as needed. I forget the name of the BIOS setting now but it's perfect. Helps you get that last nudge for stability. It's set to 1.41v. And yes, typically is uses a tad more.
Depending on your LLC, Phase control and Internall PLL settings, they will increase voltage a certain percentage under load. But the point is, you aren't really running 1.41V.

sk3tch said:
You guys can do what you want with your OCs. I've been doing this for over a decade and I know what I'm doing. I bench for stability for hours and monitor temps the entire time. That screenshot you saw of all the utils running? That's on 24/7 while I use my computer: gaming, browsing, etc. - dual monitor setup. I like to tweak. It's fun. If I "burn out" my $170 i5 2500k then oh well. But trust me temperature-wise under load it is well within the safety parameters Intel has set for their processor.

I've been running since March like this.
Like I have already said, it's your money and call.

I plan to run my 2600K in some form 24/7 for the next 3-4 years. Running CPU for 4 months shows little if anything.




sk3tch said:
Voltage is not nearly as important as the temperature of the CPU. Obviously, as you set the voltage higher - the temperature will rise.
It's not as important, but high voltage can also degrade / kill one.
 
knitoe said:
Depending on your LLC, Phase control and Internall PLL settings, they will increase voltage a certain percentage under load. But the point is, you aren't really running 1.41V.

Like I have already said, it's your money and call.

I plan to run my 2600K in some form 24/7 for the next 3-4 years. Running CPU for 4 months shows little if anything.

I just don't want you scaring people away with your voltage talk. It's not this horrible thing that will kill a CPU as long as your are cautious and take it step by step - monitor your hardware, test for stability...this is supposed to be fun. Running a CPU for 4 months shows plenty. I'm here to game. Not run a server. I get enough of that.

I'll start telling people that I'm running at 1.425v just to appease you. Even though I'm set to 1.41v and PLL is responsible for that extra fraction of voltage. :) Did you see my max CPU temps? Nothing to be alarmed about. These babies go to 90C within Intel's own documentation.
 
sk3tch said:
I just don't want you scaring people away with your voltage talk. It's not this horrible thing that will kill a CPU as long as your are cautious and take it step by step - monitor your hardware, test for stability...this is supposed to be fun. Running a CPU for 4 months shows plenty. I'm here to game. Not run a server. I get enough of that.
I would assume most people are like me and want to keep running their cpu for a few years. Overly cautious is the better route. With your voltages, I could run my 2600K@4.9GHz, but I rather run 4.5GH@1.27V. The gain of .4GHz not worth it for me long term.

sk3tch said:
I'll start telling people that I'm running at 1.425v just to appease you. Even though I'm set to 1.41v and PLL is responsible for that extra fraction of voltage. :) Did you see my max CPU temps? Nothing to be alarmed about. These babies go to 90C within Intel's own documentation.
Actually, you are running 4.7GHz@ 1.46V (HWmonitor). Max voltage is what people refer to when talking about their overclock. I wouldn't mind seeing a screenshot of you running Prime95 small fft for at least 15 min with same monitoring programs.
 
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