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[Laurentius]

Well I got my GTX 460 over lunch and put it in. Unfortunately I only have one intensive game to really test with.

My specs are:

i5 2500k @ stock speeds
8gigs DDR3 1600

EVGA GTX260 Superclocked 898mb
Witcher 2 on high in Floatsam
max fps 40, avg fps 30

PNY GTX460 1gig
Witcher 2 on high in Floatsam
max fps 48, avg fps 35

I'm a little disappointed in the increase. Benchmarks before I bought it showed a ~30% jump. I guess the superclocked edition gave me a leg up. I didn't do any before and afters for any other games but it wasn't as big of a jump as I'd hope for the $100.

On the bright side, it's dx11 compliant so Skyrim should look very nice The other bright side is the temps are down. It maxed at 65C at 45% fan in Witcher 2 compared to the 260 which maxed at 78C at 55% fan. I should be able to OC a little bit and squeeze out some more performance.

The only objective is to tide me over through new games until the next generation of AMD AND Nvidia cards hit.

This was the recertified PNY we both got, right? (I'm still waiting for mine.) I know looking at the specs, it was nearly a reference card with pretty low specs for a 460. Clock speed is about 675 mhz, I believe. I'm pretty sure it could benefit a lot from a bit of overclocking. I'm going to try to get mine to at least 800mhz or so, once I get it.

 

[LordCanti]

Witcher 2 is DX9.

I read somewhere that there are "DX11 enhancements", though I'm not sure what that refers to, or whether that is even true.

 

[garath]

Min fps is more important in a lot of cases. Just you just stand around?
Benefits should be better than that.

Could DX11 account for the meager improvement? The GTX 260 was DX10 if memory serves, and The Witcher 2 is DX11.

Just a theory. The improvement should definitely have been more than that though.

Out of curiosity, what did you do to benchmark, garath?

I used fraps, ran the benchmarking tool and ran around floatsam from the courtyard to the harbor to the inn.

It was not a very scientific test but it was pretty apples to apples. I didn't change any settings from one play to another.

Unfortunately fraps showed both tests having a min fps of 0. Not something I dove into given the 30 minutes I had left of my lunch.

Witcher 2 is very CPU dependent. Overclock your CPU to 4.4-4.5GHz for a nice speed boost.

I've heard that before. I'm definitely going to overclock. Just want to spend more time with it than just pressing the OC Genie button.

This was the recertified PNY we both got, right? (I'm still waiting for mine.) I know looking at the specs, it was nearly a reference card with pretty low specs for a 460. Clock speed is about 675 mhz, I believe. I'm pretty sure it could benefit a lot from a bit of overclocking. I'm going to try to get mine to at least 800mhz or so, once I get it.

Yeah, it's the recertified PNY. It calls itself the "Enthusiast Edition" though I don't know what it does to deserve that moniker.

 

[LordCanti]

I used fraps, ran the benchmarking tool and ran around floatsam from the courtyard to the harbor to the inn.

I've heard that before. I'm definitely going to overclock. Just want to spend more time with it than just pressing the OC Genie button.
.

I would definitely OC it, and try again. If your FPS greatly improves, then the problem is solved.

I'm reading more about TW2 in terms of DX11 functionality, and my mind is being blown a bit. Apparently it really is DX9 (console version incoming). It looks great, so I guess it doesn't matter, but I remember everyone and their mother fawning over it like it was an advance in technology.

 

[MisterNoisy]

Actually, I really like the design of that case -- moreso than the Cooler Master ones. I was considering those more for functionality than design, but that one seems to have both. Air flow looks awesome as well, which is really important to me. Is the cable management good as well?

Too bad they're out of stock, everywhere else seems to be charging $30 more than Newegg. I set it up to auto notify me. I'm not planning to build for about two more weeks, so hopefully they get some in stock. I really think I might go with that one.

Anyone else have any good experiences with that case?

I've got my current desktop in one (interestingly, it was previously in a CMStorm Scout that I ended up giving away here), and transferring everything into the K63 was a joy.

Cable management is handled by a 1" x 2" hollow bar that runs up the right side of the chassis that has slots for cables to enter and exit all along the length of it, as well as a good amount of room behind the motherboard tray - you won't have any issues keeping it tidy in there.

If you do buy it, you'll be impressed by both the design and fit and finish of everything, as well as the amount of room in there (I've got a Cooler Master V6 on my CPU, and there's plenty of clearance).

 

[Tallshortman]

Will the speed and quality be the same as the LCD? I'm just hesitant to go with the LED because it's one of the cheapest LED out there and I'm just wondering if they skimped on quality to get an LED around $200

LED's produce better picture quality and performance will be the same as LCD as far as I am aware since they are basically based on the same tech. LEDs are not as expensive these days so it's entirely possible to get a quality LED for $200. Definitely google tech site reviews for the model you're looking at though as they are obviously not all quality built. These sites review true response time and picture quality so definitely make sure you're not getting swindled.

So yeah, it's definitely possible that a $200 LED is good quality and well built.

EDIT:

What's going on with this monitor

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236059

seems cheaper but new with no reviews

That is actually the official EVO monitor iirc, so it has proven good response time and little ghosting. It's a little older now though and you can find better models (picture quality and faster response) for more money so that's why it's cheaper.

 

[Coldsnap]

Ah, I meant this LED. No reviews, new arrival. Seems like a good price.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236174

 

[Tonner Cyn]

That Asus monitor at Newegg is tempting me. I should be putting together a new desktop in the next couple of months and that would be a nice complement. It gets good ratings here and is 5 star at Newegg, so it should be pretty good.

 

[Tallshortman]

Ah, I meant this LED. No reviews, new arrival. Seems like a good price.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236174

Ah, it looks like it's a very newly released model. Good contrast and response, as long as it's Asus I'd expect it to have similar if not better performance compared with the older models. I don't believe any review sites have reviewed it yet though. I wouldn't say it would be much of a risk to purchase it but it's up to you if you think it's too risky.

 

[Guerrillas in the Mist]

Are there any major disadvantages to getting the OEM version of Windows 7? I've looked it up and all I can find is vague stuff about there being no manual and the warranty/customer support being limited compared to the retail version, and with the cost of my potential rig added up, I'd be pretty happy to save some money on the OS.

Also, is there anything bad about PNY video cards? I'm saving a bit of cash getting one, and I haven't heard any recent horror stories about them.

 

[Coldsnap]

Ah, it looks like it's a very newly released model. Good contrast and response, as long as it's Asus I'd expect it to have similar if not better performance compared with the older models. I don't believe any review sites have reviewed it yet though. I wouldn't say it would be much of a risk to purchase it but it's up to you if you think it's too risky.

I'm probably gonna get this. Just seems like an update on the other ones just that its cheaper because the technology is cheaper now. I also like the base design way better on this than other models.

 

[tiff]

Building a PC using what's basically the $1000 build in the OP (excluding the RAM and the case which I highly doubt have anything to do with my problem) and I can boot to BIOs just fine, but for some reason neither the HDD or the ODD are being recognized in BIOs. I'm guessing it's an issue with power because I don't really hear the HDD spinning, and the disc drive won't open nor is the disc drive light on. I've rechecked the connections and they seem fine to my untrained eyes, and I've tried plugging them into SATA 2_4 and 2_5 and then SATA 3_0 and 3_1, neither of which have done anything.

 

[Mr Nightman]

Building a PC using what's basically the $1000 build in the OP (excluding the RAM and the case which I highly doubt have anything to do with my problem) and I can boot to BIOs just fine, but for some reason neither the HDD or the ODD are being recognized in BIOs. I'm guessing it's an issue with power because I don't really hear the HDD spinning, and the disc drive won't open nor is the disc drive light on. I've rechecked the connections and they seem fine to my untrained eyes, and I've tried plugging them into SATA 2_4 and 2_5 and then SATA 3_0 and 3_1, neither of which have done anything.

silly question, but are the sata power cables hooked up from the power supply?

 

[LordCanti]

Are there any major disadvantages to getting the OEM version of Windows 7? I've looked it up and all I can find is vague stuff about there being no manual and the warranty/customer support being limited compared to the retail version, and with the cost of my potential rig added up, I'd be pretty happy to save some money on the OS.

Also, is there anything bad about PNY video cards? I'm saving a bit of cash getting one, and I haven't heard any recent horror stories about them.

If you are a student with a .edu email account, I think the student version of Windows 7 can be had for $30 (unless that deal has ended). Otherwise, the only real issue with OEM copies of Windows 7 are that they are for one install. If you upgrade, say, the RAM and the video card, it may decide that it is a new computer if you should ever need to reinstall Windows.

I suggest making a clone image of Windows right after installing, using something like Acronis. Then, if your HDD dies, you can just clone the system to a new drive.

(I don't say this enough, but we should be pimping backups around here a lot more often).

Oh, and PNY is fine (it doesn't have the warranty of EVGA, or the custom coolers of EVGA/Asus/MSI/etc though, so be aware of exactly what kind of warranty you are getting)

silly question, but are the sata power cables hooked up from the power supply?

Yes. Power from the PSU to the drive, data cable to the motherboard from the HDD.

Building a PC using what's basically the $1000 build in the OP (excluding the RAM and the case which I highly doubt have anything to do with my problem) and I can boot to BIOs just fine, but for some reason neither the HDD or the ODD are being recognized in BIOs. I'm guessing it's an issue with power because I don't really hear the HDD spinning, and the disc drive won't open nor is the disc drive light on. I've rechecked the connections and they seem fine to my untrained eyes, and I've tried plugging them into SATA 2_4 and 2_5 and then SATA 3_0 and 3_1, neither of which have done anything.

If you can, please take a picture or two of the inside of your computer. Best to let us make sure the connections are actually properly connected.

 

[mkenyon]

Make sure your HDDs are set to AHCI in BIOS as well.

 

[woodsey1982]

Thinking of a new build to replace my ageing core2 - torn between an i7 2600k and i5 2500k. Is it worth going with the i7 or putting the extra £60 towards a better graphics card and getting the i5?

 

[Flying_Phoenix]

I'm really considering taking this SSD back.


Posted Speeds.

Actual Speeds.

Can I call Newegg and convince them to give me a refund?

 

[LordCanti]

I'm really considering taking this SSD back.


Posted Speeds.

Actual Speeds.

Can I call Newegg and convince them to give me a refund?

It wouldn't hurt to try. That drive has a lot of terrible reviews on it.

Thinking of a new build to replace my ageing core2 - torn between an i7 2600k and i5 2500k. Is it worth going with the i7 or putting the extra £60 towards a better graphics card and getting the i5?

Go with the 2600k if you do a lot of media work (rendering video, for instance). If not, go with the 2500k.

 

[RS4-]

I'm really considering taking this SSD back.


Posted Speeds.

Actual Speeds.

Can I call Newegg and convince them to give me a refund?

Connected to SATA6?

 

[mkenyon]

I'm really considering taking this SSD back.


Posted Speeds.

Actual Speeds.

Can I call Newegg and convince them to give me a refund?

up to 525 MB/s (SATA 6Gbps)

Newegg might, but it's not really on them, that's straight from the manufacturer. It actually might be your motherboard's fault. Any chance of you testing it in another system? Contact OCZ, see what they say.

 

[Mr Nightman]

Thinking of a new build to replace my ageing core2 - torn between an i7 2600k and i5 2500k. Is it worth going with the i7 or putting the extra £60 towards a better graphics card and getting the i5?

honestly just go with the i5, that is more than enough cpu power for any gaming.

 

[LordCanti]

Connected to SATA6?

Good point. Make sure it's actually plugged into a 6 port instead of a 3. Check your manual to find out which is which.

 

[chaosblade]

Regarding Windows OEM, it's easy enough to handle installing it on a new PC. When you try to activate it on the new one it will give you a number to call and a code you put in on the phone. It's a 5 minute ordeal that will activate Windows on the new PC and presumably deactivate the old one. Had to do it once when I thought my motherboard died, and will be doing it again next year when I upgrade to Ivy Bridge.

As for the SSD speeds, I'd compare to reviews and not what the manufacturer claims.

Thinking of a new build to replace my ageing core2 - torn between an i7 2600k and i5 2500k. Is it worth going with the i7 or putting the extra £60 towards a better graphics card and getting the i5?

Definitely put the money toward a GPU. Unless you are running professional apps you know will take advantage of hyperthreading, the 2600k isn't worth it.

 

[LaneDS]

Good point. Make sure it's actually plugged into a 6 port instead of a 3. Check your manual to find out which is which.

Are the cables different as well? The ASUS mobo I recently bought had cables labeled for SATA 6Gb and ones not labeled for SATA 3Gb (and colored differently), but I don't know if that is just a cosmetic thing.

 

[Laurentius]

Are there any major disadvantages to getting the OEM version of Windows 7? I've looked it up and all I can find is vague stuff about there being no manual and the warranty/customer support being limited compared to the retail version, and with the cost of my potential rig added up, I'd be pretty happy to save some money on the OS.

Also, is there anything bad about PNY video cards? I'm saving a bit of cash getting one, and I haven't heard any recent horror stories about them.

A friend of mine is running 8 PNY video cards in his "computer lab". No problems from what I've heard. I've got one coming in the mail as well.

 

[Saren is Bad]

Anyone have a Razer Black Mamba? I have had one for about a year and I have an issue where sometimes if I bootup when I'm attached by the cord that my PC doesn't recognize the mouse, or it allows me to click but not move, stupid shit like that. Only way to fix it is unplug the USB and plug it back in and even then it sometimes still fucks up.

 

[LordCanti]

Are the cables different as well? The ASUS mobo I recently bought had cables labeled for SATA 6Gb and ones not labeled for SATA 3Gb (and colored differently), but I don't know if that is just a cosmetic thing.

It's a cosmetic thing. Any SATA cable will work.

 

[Mudkips]

I'm really considering taking this SSD back.


Posted Speeds.

Actual Speeds.

Can I call Newegg and convince them to give me a refund?

You're using the "wrong" benchmark. Use AS SSD (or ATTO) to get the advertised numbers.

They use the benchmark that gives them the fastest numbers, obviously. I forget which one (ATTO or AS SSD) is currently the "standard".

 

[RS4-]

Anyone have a Razer Black Mamba? I have had one for about a year and I have an issue where sometimes if I bootup when I'm attached by the cord that my PC doesn't recognize the mouse, or it allows me to click but not move, stupid shit like that. Only way to fix it is unplug the USB and plug it back in and even then it sometimes still fucks up.

I've heard the same thing happens to the Cyborg RAT mice. No surprise since they're affiliated with Razer

 

[mkenyon]

It's a cosmetic thing. Any SATA cable will work.

Any will work, but cables not rated for SATA 3/6GB will not run at SATA3/6GB. Everything is backwards compatible, but not forward compatible for speed.

Anyone have a Razer Black Mamba? I have had one for about a year and I have an issue where sometimes if I bootup when I'm attached by the cord that my PC doesn't recognize the mouse, or it allows me to click but not move, stupid shit like that. Only way to fix it is unplug the USB and plug it back in and even then it sometimes still fucks up.

This happens with almost all mice since USB came around. I've never had a mouse where this hasn't happened.

 

[LordCanti]

Any will work, but cables not rated for SATA 3/6GB will not run at SATA3/6GB. Everything is backwards compatible, but not forward compatible for speed.

I've heard the exact opposite, that a SATA 3GB cable will run 6GB just fine.

(I'm currently googling, hoping for confirmation of this)

Here we go:

Q9. Does SATA 6Gb/s require different connectors and cables to support the higher transfer speed?

A9. The same cables and connectors used for current SATA 1.5 and SATA 3.0 Gb/s implementations can be used to connect SATA 6Gb/s devices, although SATA-IO recommends quality components be selected to ensure data integrity and robust operation at the faster SATA 6Gb/s transfer rate. Keeping the existing SATA connector form factor enables SATA 6Gb/s to be designed into the same cost-conscious hardware architectures while minimizing infrastructure changes.

Source: SATA International Organization, SATA Revision 3.0 Specification, here (http://www.sata-io.org/documents/SATA-Revision-3.0-FAQ-FINAL.pdf)

 

[theRizzle]

Anyone have a Razer Black Mamba? I have had one for about a year and I have an issue where sometimes if I bootup when I'm attached by the cord that my PC doesn't recognize the mouse, or it allows me to click but not move, stupid shit like that. Only way to fix it is unplug the USB and plug it back in and even then it sometimes still fucks up.

Both Razer mice I've owned had this problem. None of the Logitech or Microsoft mice I've had did this. It almost makes me use my Razer less because it is kind of a pain in the ass.

 

[tehbible]

I've heard the exact opposite, that a SATA 3GB cable will run 6GB just fine.

(I'm currently googling, hoping for confirmation of this)

yeah, i believe SATA 3 cables work fine on SATA6 devices going at SATA6 speeds.

 

[RS4-]

This happens with almost all mice since USB came around. I've never had a mouse where this hasn't happened.

I've yet to come across anything like that in the past 5 years or so of using logitech wireless mice.

Go logitech!

 

[SnakeSlashRO]

I wanted to check with you guys for sure... I had planned to buy a few things on newegg, but I assumed if I could drop by the local Fry's Electronics I could pick up the same products with similar deals, and without the shipping price ( and the waiting and crap that comes with shipping )

Anyway I had planned on buying:
Mother Board
ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Graphics
EVGA 012-P3-1571-AR GeForce GTX 570 HD w/Display-Port (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
and I already bought a Intel Core i5-2500K Processor 3.3GHz 6 MB Cache Socket LGA1155
off Amazon.


Picked up a COOLER MASTER Elite 430 RC-430-KWN1 Black Steel
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119227
and COOLER MASTER eXtreme Power Plus 550W for the card.

The mother board I picked up from frys was ASUS P7P55D-E LX LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131634


I decided to look it up, cause I noticed the whole P55 in the name... And it said something about a socket 1156.... I believe my processor is a 1155... So I think that I may have a problem.


Also I got some Ram at Frys, Im thinking the guy gave me laptop memory... Ill post a picture of it.... Over all I dont think they guy helping me was very much help. I told him what I was working with, but then again I am not fully educated on what I am doing either....

Heres everything...

For the Graphics I ended up getting the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130622 Same as above but Super Clocked. It was open box so I got it for 309.

 

[sn00zer]

Ive got a
Core Duo 2.66GHz
4GB Ram
8800GTS

Looking to upgrade the GPU....anyone know of a cheap upgrade (is there a market for used GPUs?)...my desktop is 1680*1050

 

[RS4-]

I decided to look it up, cause I noticed the whole P55 in the name... And it said something about a socket 1156.... I believe my processor is a 1155... So I think that I may have a problem.

Yup, wrong mobo; won't work with your 2500k

 

[LordCanti]

I wanted to check with you guys for sure... I had planned to buy a few things on newegg, but I assumed if I could drop by the local Fry's Electronics I could pick up the same products with similar deals, and without the shipping price ( and the waiting and crap that comes with shipping )

Anyway I had planned on buying:
Mother Board
ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Graphics
EVGA 012-P3-1571-AR GeForce GTX 570 HD w/Display-Port (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
and I already bought a Intel Core i5-2500K Processor 3.3GHz 6 MB Cache Socket LGA1155
off Amazon.


Picked up a COOLER MASTER Elite 430 RC-430-KWN1 Black Steel
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119227
and COOLER MASTER eXtreme Power Plus 550W for the card.

The mother board I picked up from frys was ASUS P7P55D-E LX LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131634


I decided to look it up, cause I noticed the whole P55 in the name... And it said something about a socket 1156.... I believe my processor is a 1155... So I think that I may have a problem.

For the Graphics I ended up getting the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130622 Same as above but Super Clocked. It was open box so I got it for 309.

You need a socket 1155 mobo. 1156 will not work with that CPU. The guy at Fry's doesn't know what the heck he is talking about.

(give me a minute to work the rest out)

The RAM is not laptop memory, it should work fine.

Ive got a
Core Duo 2.66GHz
4GB Ram
8800GTS

Looking to upgrade the GPU....anyone know of a cheap upgrade (is there a market for used GPUs?)...my desktop is 1680*1050

Newegg has open box video cards, and deals can be had sometimes (http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007709 4809&IsNodeId=1&name=Open Box) there aren't any real deals right now though. It should go without saying that there is a market for used video cards on Ebay, with plenty of buying and selling. I would look for a cheap GTX 460 to complement those specs (you'll be CPU bottlenecked going any higher).

 

[Mudkips]

Any will work, but cables not rated for SATA 3/6GB will not run at SATA3/6GB. Everything is backwards compatible, but not forward compatible for speed.

There is no governing body that rates SATA cables. Speed claims are worth nothing more than the manufacturer's word. SATA cables are dead simple, and you'd have to have a really shitty, or really long, cable to make it affect speed capabilities. Any SATA cable that meets the 2.6 spec is fully capable of 6 Gbps.

 

[SnakeSlashRO]

You need a socket 1155 mobo. 1156 will not work with that CPU. The guy at Fry's doesn't know what the heck he is talking about.

(give me a minute to work the rest out)

The RAM is not laptop memory, it should work fine.

Thx RS4- and Lord Canti, I didn't open anything up yet... so ill go return this one. Hopefully they have the ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) if not ill just buy it online...

 

[tiff]

silly question, but are the sata power cables hooked up from the power supply?

I'm not sure what they're called, but something from the PSU is hooked up, sure!

Make sure your HDDs are set to AHCI in BIOS as well.

They are.

If you can, please take a picture or two of the inside of your computer. Best to let us make sure the connections are actually properly connected.

http://i.imgur.com/r1t8X.jpg ODD
http://i.imgur.com/FlIJQ.jpg HDD

Don't know if those pictures are good enough. I can take more if you need. The SATA ports are very hard to get to though.

 

[mkenyon]

I've yet to come across anything like that in the past 5 years or so of using logitech wireless mice.

Go logitech!

It's anecdotal for both of us, but I've had everything from a boomslang, 518, G500, G9, RAT 7, Deathadder, Imperator, Naga, Xai, and it's been an issue with every single one of them. Keyboards too.

 

[MikeE21286]

G500 and G700 <3

 

[commish]

Guys, I'm way, way out of the loop when it comes to the latest tech. Can someone just tell me if now is a good time to buy a new box or if there is some mythical amazing card/chip that is close at hand that is worth waiting for? I'm looking to spend between 1500 and 2k on it.

 

[RS4-]

Thx RS4- and Lord Canti, I didn't open anything up yet... so ill go return this one. Hopefully they have the ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) if not ill just buy it online...

If not, there's always the Gigabyte boards as well; some go for as little as $100 from what I've seen. But you'll have to look at the features and see if you can live without a few things the cheaper Giga ones have.

 

[LordCanti]

I'm not sure what they're called, but something from the PSU is hooked up, sure!


They are.


http://i.imgur.com/r1t8X.jpg ODD
http://i.imgur.com/FlIJQ.jpg HDD

Don't know if those pictures are good enough. I can take more if you need. The SATA ports are very hard to get to though.

The connections to the actual devices seem fine from here (make sure they don't wiggle at all). I can't see the connections to the motherboard in that shot though.

 

[mkenyon]

Guys, I'm way, way out of the loop when it comes to the latest tech. Can someone just tell me if now is a good time to buy a new box or if there is some mythical amazing card/chip that is close at hand that is worth waiting for? I'm looking to spend between 1500 and 2k on it.

If you can wait, Bulldozer in one month. If you can't, going sandybridge is still a solid choice. You can't go wrong right now.

 

[NullPointer]

Anybody have suggestions on a good earpiece and mic to use on PC? I'd really like something like these, only for the PC.

All I've managed to find are full on headsets.

 

[mkenyon]

Anybody have suggestions on a good earpiece and mic to use on PC? I'd really like something like these, only for the PC.
All I've managed to find are full on headsets.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029MTMQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20

 

[NullPointer]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029MTMQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Thanks! That's one tiny piece of tech. Nice.