Almost the same. I don't have the intake fan on the bottom (getting fans tomorrow), and shamefully my 8pin CPU powerline isn't long enough so I have to have it going across the mobo, which looks ugly and probably ruins airflow for the cpu cooler slighty - will be fixing that with a wire extension.
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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paparazzo
Member
Not sure if this is the place to ask this, but how well would this iMac run games like Mass Effect 1 & 2, Crysis, etc.?
I know Macs are not ideal for gaming and aren't scalpable, but I need a new PC before school starts and don't have the time/patience to build a new pc myself and my dad wants to just order this now. I'm pretty much a total noob when it comes to this stuff.
I know Macs are not ideal for gaming and aren't scalpable, but I need a new PC before school starts and don't have the time/patience to build a new pc myself and my dad wants to just order this now. I'm pretty much a total noob when it comes to this stuff.
CarbonatedFalcon
Member
The Skater said:
Decently, but the graphics cards in Apple computers are never high end, and the card in that iMac in particular is not too hot. You will be bottlenecked on anything 1-2 years down the road being able to play new graphically intensive games on low-medium at best, if at all. For the same price, you can build a computer many times more capable/powerful (GTX 570, i5 2500k, 8GB RAM, SSD, etc.)
The VRAM on that card is really kind of the killer when many mid-high end cards have at least 1GB now. So you might be able to meet the minimum requirements and run stuff, it just won't be super pretty. (I know speaking as someone with a 2009 MBP with 256 MB of VRAM.)
Though if it's of any help, I can still run Mass Effect 2 on this laptop, just not super smoothly.
YianGaruga
Banned
I'm always completely paranoid about my temps.
It's hot outside and I have my i5 at 41°C idle and 50°C while playing LoL, while the GPU ist at 47 while idle and 58 when running LoL.
How is that? Horrible, Normal, Great?
It's hot outside and I have my i5 at 41°C idle and 50°C while playing LoL, while the GPU ist at 47 while idle and 58 when running LoL.
How is that? Horrible, Normal, Great?
Enosh
Member
well should get my 6870 tommorow, hope it fixes my "games shutting down the PC" problem which is comming up again, can't even play the space marine demo...
althrough I wonder do I need to do some special thingy when putting the card in beyond take out all the power cables from the old card and put them back in, does the 6870 require some difrent ones from the 4850?
althrough I wonder do I need to do some special thingy when putting the card in beyond take out all the power cables from the old card and put them back in, does the 6870 require some difrent ones from the 4850?
Ok, guys. I don't know shit about PCs and just went off the OP and a friend to get stuff off of newegg. Does my kit work out well to run BF3 at the max? Again, I don't know shit about this stuff other than what I've read this morning in the OP. Also, will I have complatibilty issues with any of the gear? Like, all this stuff will work together right?
Oh, if I want to run this on my TV instead of a monitor? Am I ok with this rig? Do I need to add something else for the ability to run it on my TV?
CPU : Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
GFX Card : ASUS MATRIX GTX580 P/2DIS/1536MD5 GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP
Fan? : CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC
Cooler : COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler
Motherboard : ASRock P67 EXTREME4 GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Case : Fractal Design Arc Midi Black High Performance PC Computer Case w/ USB 3.0 and 3 x Fractal High Performance 140mm fans
Ram : CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model
Hard Drive : Seagate Momentus 7200.4 ST320LT023 320GB 7200 RPM 2.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Notebook Hard Drive -Bare
Optical Drive : ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
All together it's about 1330. Does this sound right or will I be laughed at in a few seconds because of my noobness in all this?
Oh, if I want to run this on my TV instead of a monitor? Am I ok with this rig? Do I need to add something else for the ability to run it on my TV?
CPU : Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
GFX Card : ASUS MATRIX GTX580 P/2DIS/1536MD5 GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP
Fan? : CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC
Cooler : COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler
Motherboard : ASRock P67 EXTREME4 GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Case : Fractal Design Arc Midi Black High Performance PC Computer Case w/ USB 3.0 and 3 x Fractal High Performance 140mm fans
Ram : CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model
Hard Drive : Seagate Momentus 7200.4 ST320LT023 320GB 7200 RPM 2.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Notebook Hard Drive -Bare
Optical Drive : ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
All together it's about 1330. Does this sound right or will I be laughed at in a few seconds because of my noobness in all this?
Bob White said:
These are the only 2 things that strike me as odd, the ram because if your not leaving alot of windows and tabs open 8gb will be more than enough. and The Hard drive because its a laptop 2.5" harddrive and its only 320gb, might as well get the spinpoint from the OP.
Something I've noticed is that my 2500k cpu automatically overclocks to 4.2ghz. I know these chips have turbo mode but i thought it's only go to 3.7ghz? I dont wanna overclock yet and I havent changed any settings so does anyone know what the bios settings should be to leave the cpu at 'default' (3.3ghz with auto 3.7ghz)? I have a asus p8z68 but I assume its the same settings as a p67 which many people have.
What does GAF think?
$1100 - $30 in promo codes - $15 for a combo deal - $50 in rebates - $50 in Amazon credit I have = ~$950
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=24391588
Should also note that I already have a 256gb SSD that I'll use for OS + main apps (probably not steam as I have too many games).
$1100 - $30 in promo codes - $15 for a combo deal - $50 in rebates - $50 in Amazon credit I have = ~$950
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=24391588
Should also note that I already have a 256gb SSD that I'll use for OS + main apps (probably not steam as I have too many games).
Thinking of going with a build like this, stolen shamelessly from a user on Reddit.
CPU: Intel Core i5-2400 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Biostar TZ68A+ ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: XFX Radeon HD 6950 1GB Video Card ($209.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair 500W ATX12V Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $689.93
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
I'm willing to spend up to $750 including the OS (which I can get $30 as a college student). Are there any upgrades you'd make to this with the remaining $30 I have left on my budget? A higher watt PSU maybe? Thanks!
CPU: Intel Core i5-2400 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Biostar TZ68A+ ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($34.99 @ Newegg)
Hard Drive: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: XFX Radeon HD 6950 1GB Video Card ($209.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair 500W ATX12V Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $689.93
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
I'm willing to spend up to $750 including the OS (which I can get $30 as a college student). Are there any upgrades you'd make to this with the remaining $30 I have left on my budget? A higher watt PSU maybe? Thanks!
i got the feeling you won't be Overclocking your rig.ACE 1991 said:
if you're not SLI'ing, you should be fine with 500W
if not, go for the i5-2500k (only 30 dollars more)
if you can, i'd future proof the GPU and get a NVIDIA based graphics card like the GTX 570.
also, a 40GB+ SSD drive wouldn't hurt neither. that would make everything quicker.
Ok OC GAF... let's see if you guys can help with this one.
I tried to follow the guide in the OP and overclock my i5 2500k. It bombed... terribly. First let me start off by saying that my ASRock as the auto-turbo that will give me it's recommended settings for overclocking when applied. I am currently on this set at 4.4ghz which (during prime95 and burn test) gives me a core voltage maxing out at 1.336v.
So back to the guide. I went in and manually set my DRAM settings to what is on my RAM (which was the same anyway). Then went in and set the multiplier to manual and upped it to 45. I changed the CPU core voltage to (fixed) 1.25v. BSOD. In fact, I cannot get passed the BSOD unless my voltage is 1.300v or more. I kept at it and finally got to 1.360v at 4.5ghz and ran burn test. I could watch my multipliers fluctuate, voltage would never get up passed 1.28v, and when that would pass (lol) prime95 would error out on a single core.
Is there some setting I'm missing that is screwing me over here?
I tried to follow the guide in the OP and overclock my i5 2500k. It bombed... terribly. First let me start off by saying that my ASRock as the auto-turbo that will give me it's recommended settings for overclocking when applied. I am currently on this set at 4.4ghz which (during prime95 and burn test) gives me a core voltage maxing out at 1.336v.
So back to the guide. I went in and manually set my DRAM settings to what is on my RAM (which was the same anyway). Then went in and set the multiplier to manual and upped it to 45. I changed the CPU core voltage to (fixed) 1.25v. BSOD. In fact, I cannot get passed the BSOD unless my voltage is 1.300v or more. I kept at it and finally got to 1.360v at 4.5ghz and ran burn test. I could watch my multipliers fluctuate, voltage would never get up passed 1.28v, and when that would pass (lol) prime95 would error out on a single core.
Is there some setting I'm missing that is screwing me over here?
heh, well theres no way you can keep your voltage at 1.28v yet get 4.4ghz. Thats about right that you're setting your voltage to 1.336v for 4.4ghz.TommyT said:
Try lowering your voltage, and make sure you select 'without vdrop' as an option.
also, for Overclocking, ensure you disable all CPU features like SpeedStep, etc.
I'm at 4.3 on stock voltage. I didn't feel the need to keep it a 4.5, let alone 4.9. The extra time spent waiting for a file to convert wasn't going to kill me.
Besides, for me at 4.3-4, I didn't have to change anything in bios other than the multiplier. I still have it drop down to 1.6 when I'm not doing anything intensive.
I'll have to check other settings just to be sure.
Besides, for me at 4.3-4, I didn't have to change anything in bios other than the multiplier. I still have it drop down to 1.6 when I'm not doing anything intensive.
I'll have to check other settings just to be sure.
tehbible said:
My chip which is an average clocker, i.e nothing special, lies around 4.5ghz with 1.28v, we have gaffers with golden chips that reach 4.9ghz with 1.28v.
But there's just a big chance that your cpu simply need more voltage to reach those speeds.
Opened up my case today to install a new 80mm (11dB) chassi fan and two more sticks of 2GB DDR3 (I now have 8GB, the OS is really snappy now) and man was it dusty! Took q-tips and moved them gently along various fan blades and removed the fine, fine crud that had built up.
Lowered my system temp by 7°C and it's as quiet as it was without that extra fan. I didn't know that decibel didn't add up, it's only as high as the loudest part in my computer. Pretty cool
Also, holy shit is RAM cheap!
Lowered my system temp by 7°C and it's as quiet as it was without that extra fan. I didn't know that decibel didn't add up, it's only as high as the loudest part in my computer. Pretty cool
Also, holy shit is RAM cheap!
your card will definitely hold you over, no problems.ACE 1991 said:
Here is what I would do since you're planning on future proofing
buy the i5-2500k (its worth it)
buy a higher watt psu, (650w should be plenty)
keep your existing ATI 6950. That will hold you over until you upgrade about a year later
i would HIGHLY recommend a SSD drive. I'd go for a 60GB SSD minimum. They're kinda pricey, since they are SSD, but the performance is phenomenal.
I'll research some cheaper SSD's for ya.
a year or so from now, you can buy a CPU heatsink, and faster GPU no problems. 500w is borderline low wattage if you're getting a high end GPU.
Corky said:
Hmm... I still don't understand why if I manually set the voltage (fixed) to 1.335 and 4.5ghz my tests run crappy with me seeing the voltage fluctuate heavily, multipliers fluctuate, and prime95 failing a core. If my chip needs 1.35v to reach 4.5ghz then that's what it needs. I'm just trying to make sure the discrepancy between the OC guide in the OP running 1.25v and me running 1.35v is "ok".
I have an older Corsair HX620 PSU at home and I'm thinking of grabbing the i5-2500k, Asus P68Z68 Pro mobo and a 570 GTX. Is my PSU enough to handle this or have things changed too much in the past couple years that I can't use it anymore?
Here is a link to it on Newegg even though its no longer available:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139002
Here is a link to it on Newegg even though its no longer available:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139002
crimsonheadGCN
Banned
So my HD is finally going and I put in a RMA to WD for a replacement and I was thinking maybe it's time to get an SSD to go along with the the replacement. How big of a drive do I need to install Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit on and some programs on? And what is a good sub $100 SSD that I could get?
lastendconductor
Put your snobby liquids into my mouth!
Hey PC GAF, I have a small question! I have a pretty weak PC in terms of gaming (built it years ago thinking only about noise and size). I want to get again into gaming, but I don't need to play Crytek lastest thing or wathever, I just want to be able to play The Witcher 2 and Diablo 3 for example at a good stable framerate without things looking like shit.
My question is if I can upgrade my video card and call it a day, or will an AMD 5200+@2.7GHz and 4GB RAM be insufficent? I'd have to replace basically the whole computer if that's the case
My question is if I can upgrade my video card and call it a day, or will an AMD 5200+@2.7GHz and 4GB RAM be insufficent? I'd have to replace basically the whole computer if that's the case
TommyT said:
Are you getting BSOD as soon as Windows starts booting? It might be the VCore drop is too much. Try disabling SpeedStep and C1/C3/C6 power states and see if that will allow you to boot into Windows. But if you're prime95 errors at 4.5GHz @ 1.3V+, it sounds like your CPU just isn't able to run completely stable at that speed. You can try even higher voltage, but I wouldn't go much further (certainly not higher than 1.4V).
tehbible said:
Thank you very much! PC GAF is a friendly place =)
At the present, and as a poor college student, I really can't go over the $750 mark. I can add these upgrades at a later date though. This rig should be very upgradeable, right? Would you have me buy a better Power Supply or the 2500K for my first purchase?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Newegg has a TX650 for $65 after rebate. Great PSU if you can fit it in your budget.ACE 1991 said:
Anyway, the only two components that you can rely on using down the road are a PSU and case if you get really good ones. Your CPU/motherboard are going to be discontinued, IIRC Ivy Bridge is going to be on a new socket next year even though it's still going to be 1155. So unless you buy a whole new CPU and motherboard, the best CPU you can get is a 2500k/2600k. So it's not really all that upgradable, although those CPUs will last a few years.
You really have to build looking at the "now" or you can end up with an unbalanced or poor build. I made that mistake on my first one.
cartman414
Member
CarbonatedFalcon said:
Can't wait until a Thunderbolt PCIe enclosure comes out.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
2500k is probably worth the investment thanks to OCing, even if you don't do it now it's an easy upgrade down the road. You'll just need a P67/Z68 motherboard to make sure you can do it (H67 can't OC), but that will bump the price of your build up a little.ACE 1991 said:
You could keep the rest of that build the same and be fine, probably still under $750. Then just upgrade whatever you need to when the time comes. For at least a few years, that will probably just mean the GPU.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Z68, yep, so you should be able to overclock with that, although it might limit you a little it shouldn't be a deal breaker.ACE 1991 said:
I don't think we really know yet. There's a lot of pessimism about BD right now, people expecting it to just compete with Sandy Bridge.
Micro Center has the ASUS Sabertooth X58 on sale for $159.99 with the purchase of a 2500k. Dunno about any other motherboards. Thoughts. Yes? No? Anything better around its original price ($194.99) on Newegg? If I want to overclock, what is the easiest/best motherboard around that price?
Mattdaddy
Gold Member
Anyone have any experience using a wireless gaming mouse? I know wired is preferred, but I want to play on my TV and my setup would be a lot cleaner with a wireless mouse & keyboard. I don't mind paying more for some quality stuff if it's necessary. I'm going to be playing BF3, so I don't want any noticeable lag.
For instance this Razer Mamba... anyone used this?
http://store.razerzone.com/store/ra...parentCategoryID.35208800/categoryId.35210600
For instance this Razer Mamba... anyone used this?
http://store.razerzone.com/store/ra...parentCategoryID.35208800/categoryId.35210600
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