"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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anyone heard whats the deal with the 6990 chip shortage?
Cant seem to find a supplier anywhere in Southern Ontario area that can get one
 
I have a Radeon 6950, Win 7 64-bit and a new LG E2750 connected via DVI-D. I want to play CS in 1024x768 and don't want it to be stretched. Normally I am able to click "maintain aspect ratio" in the CCC but this is somehow gray and not selectable. What can I do?
 
luffeN said:
I have a Radeon 6950, Win 7 64-bit and a new LG E2750 connected via DVI-D. I want to play CS in 1024x768 and don't want it to be stretched. Normally I am able to click "maintain aspect ratio" in the CCC but this is somehow gray and not selectable. What can I do?
Your monitor might have a 1:1 pixel mapping setting
 
actually i want some msi afterburner help now.

messing about with the user defined fan control, but the fan speed has a limit of 85 and even if temps go higher it won't go above 85. have i missed something obvious?
 
Chinner said:
actually i want some msi afterburner help now.

messing about with the user defined fan control, but the fan speed has a limit of 85 and even if temps go higher it won't go above 85. have i missed something obvious?

Probably a locked setting (my GTX 580 won't go lower than 40% fan without a firmware flash, for good reason).

Why would you ever need the fan to go higher than 85%?
 
luffeN said:
I have a Radeon 6950, Win 7 64-bit and a new LG E2750 connected via DVI-D. I want to play CS in 1024x768 and don't want it to be stretched. Normally I am able to click "maintain aspect ratio" in the CCC but this is somehow gray and not selectable. What can I do?
You can try going into the properties and disabling DPI settings under the compatibility tab. Just right click your game exe or shortcut and look under the 3rd tab for 'disable scaling on high DPI settings"
 
Hawk269 said:
Hey Smokey...any more impressions of that new 580 Lightning you got? I would like to here some more feedback from you on it.

Thanks!

I have no complaints about the card. It's quiet and aesthetically I love the look of it. The blue fans with the LED's look pretty cool and I get lots of compliments about it from people who come over and see it.

Game wise it's still a 580. It'll still destroy pretty much anything out. Comes factory clocked at 832mhz. Haven't had much time to mess around with it, but right now I have it at 902mhz at 1.038 V. Going to push it as far as I can this week since I'll be on vacation and have nothing but time. And then there's the 3GB memory which no game out comes close to maxing. Game that comes the closest is Crysis 2 on Ultra with the Hi-res pack. I think I've seen it get as high as 1.7GB but that was it.

This card is highly touted because of it's OC ability and so far I have a small OC on it by Lightning standards. As I mentioned though gonna dig into that more this week. Will hopefully add another Lightning by the end of the month to finally complete my SLI setup. These cards are really meant to be SLI'd and used for a Surround setup or at 1080p+ resolutions.

On C2 for instance I run out of graphical oomph before I run out of memory (get around 45-50fps max C2). SLI two of these will allow for some great multi screen action while having plenty of memory to work with and some nice FPS thrown in as well. That's really where these cards shine.
 
Hey guys, I started to gather components to build my own PC at Amazon and Newegg (mainly for BF3) when I came across this one-day deal on Friday at the Dell Outlet for a scratch & dent Alienware Aurora R3. I impulsed-bought it, but I can still cancel. Yes, I know it's a Dell, but look at the price below! What do you guys think? I'm not sure I can build a computer like this for less...

Alienware Aurora Desktop
Matte Stealth Black 875W Multi-GPU Approved Power Supply
Processor: Intel Core i7-2600 processor (8MB Cache, 3.4GHz)
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
CPU Liquid Cooling
8 GB DDR3 NON-ECC SDRAM at 1333MHz (4 DIMMs)
1.5 GB GDDR5 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580
24X CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability
1 TB SATA II Hard Drive (7200RPM)
Alienware TactX Keyboard
Alienware TactX Mouse

$1,071.20 (with a 1-day only 20% coupon)

What do you think, keep or cancel?
 
jaaz said:
Hey guys, I started to gather components to build my own PC at Amazon and Newegg (mainly for BF3) when I came across this one-day deal on Friday at the Dell Outlet for a scratch & dent Alienware Aurora R3. I impulsed-bought it, but I can still cancel. Yes, I know it's a Dell, but look at the price below! What do you guys think? I'm not sure I can build a computer like this for less...

Alienware Aurora Desktop
Matte Stealth Black 875W Multi-GPU Approved Power Supply
Processor: Intel Core i7-2600 processor (8MB Cache, 3.4GHz)
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
CPU Liquid Cooling
8 GB DDR3 NON-ECC SDRAM at 1333MHz (4 DIMMs)
1.5 GB GDDR5 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580
24X CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW) w/double layer write capability
1 TB SATA II Hard Drive (7200RPM)
Alienware TactX Keyboard
Alienware TactX Mouse

$1,071.20 (with a 1-day only 20% coupon)

What do you think, keep or cancel?
Id keep it, unless the damage was severe.
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
It is superb my friend.

Excellent, good to know. I was debating whether to get the Gene-Z or a cheaper Z68 motherboard with a discrete sound card.

TheExodu5 said:
Heh...I'm guessing you have a Fractal R3? I can't say I've seen any with USB 3.0 headers, but I'll keep a lookout.

Thanks a lot. It's a Silverstone GD05, and the header looks like it's replaceable... but maybe only with another stock PCB, since Silverstone doesn't appear to sell anything like that by itself. Plus the case only has a single, 5.25" bay, so if I'm going to put a fan controller in it over an optical drive I'd at least like some USB 3.0 ports in the front.
 
So after convincing myself the BitFenix Merc (http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/merc-alpha/) was worth waiting for, I was perusing this thread and discovered the Fractal Midi (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352007) and I'm pretty sure its the perfect case for me, and I don't have to wait! Does anyone have any experience with this case or feel the need to steer me in a different direction? Perfect on the following levels:

1. 2 fan slots in front (like the aesthetic)
2. All black, black inside, no window (again, aesthetic)
3. Better cable management than Bitfenix above
4. Top mounted I/O ports

Going to post my entire build here in a few minutes. What do you guys recommend for total # of fans in this thing?
 
DennisK4 said:
Why?

If you can afford it two GTX580 cards are better than one 590. Especially if you get 3GB versions.
I can afford 580s, I was just under the impression the 590 would be better to have in the long run, especially if I get a second one in the future.
 
kiruyama said:
Wow, looks great! Question about the H60 as I just recently got one: My idle CPU temps are in the 60s when they should be around 35-40, correct? Do you think this is a problem with the pump's seating on my CPU or could the fan be being blocked somehow? Is there a specific orientation for the pump on the CPU? I just kinda slapped it on the easiest way.

Hey, sorry I'm late to reply to this...

Yea, idling in the 60s is high (I assume you're running a 2500k?). My 2500k with H60 idles at 25-35c in a pretty warm room. Under load (gaming, haven't stressed it yet), it hasn't gone above 49c. This thing is AWESOME.

I'd definitely check the seating. Make sure you followed the instructions closely. Corsair put out a video with a how-to to accompany the instructions: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HO9APx2yKrg

Be careful, though. If you remove the heatsink, you may mess up the thermal compound placement. Have some laying around in case you remove the cooler and it isn't reusable.
 
abuC said:
I can afford 580s, I was just under the impression the 590 would be better to have in the long run, especially if I get a second one in the future.
Even in the short run it's still a better option. Single card solutions will always be more pain free, at least until they figure out how to standardize enough that the end user doesn't notice a difference. Having custom profiles for every game is such a pain that I personally don't want to deal with.
sn1pes said:
Hey, sorry I'm late to reply to this...

Yea, idling in the 60s is high (I assume you're running a 2500k?). My 2500k with H60 idles at 25-35c in a pretty warm room. Under load (gaming, haven't stressed it yet), it hasn't gone above 49c. This thing is AWESOME.

I'd definitely check the seating. Make sure you followed the instructions closely. Corsair put out a video with a how-to to accompany the instructions: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HO9APx2yKrg

Be careful, though. If you remove the heatsink, you may mess up the thermal compound placement. Have some laying around in case you remove the cooler and it isn't reusable.
Do you have a custom fan on the CPU? Mine runs at about 50 as per CoreTemp. Or is CoreTemp innacurate (it's the plugin for the windows 7 widget)
 
Ulchie said:
Even in the short run it's still a better option. Single card solutions will always be more pain free, at least until they figure out how to standardize enough that the end user doesn't notice a difference. Having custom profiles for every game is such a pain that I personally don't want to deal with.

Do you have a custom fan on the CPU? Mine runs at about 50 as per CoreTemp. Or is CoreTemp innacurate (it's the plugin for the windows 7 widget)

I'm using the Corsair H60 water cooler. Check it out in the youtube link in the post above. Only had my new system for a few days but I don't think I'll ever go back to traditional air cooling.
 
So I'm thinking of making the move to SSDs. I notice most have incredibly low capacity. How do people get the most out of these? Just install main programs on SSD and everything else on other HDs?
 
Ulchie said:
Even in the short run it's still a better option. Single card solutions will always be more pain free, at least until they figure out how to standardize enough that the end user doesn't notice a difference. Having custom profiles for every game is such a pain that I personally don't want to deal with.
The 590 is a dual card solution that vomits heat since no sane person would stick two high end $500 cards together and expect it to be cool or quiet.
 
ReconYoda said:
I need Video card advice. I am choosing between 460 or 560. The 560 is $185, the 460 is $135, is the 560 worth the $50?

Assuming it's the regular 1GB non-SE 460, and the non-Ti 560, they're the exact same card.
 
Varna said:
So I'm thinking of making the move to SSDs. I notice most have incredibly low capacity. How do people get the most out of these? Just install main programs on SSD and everything else on other HDs?
Yes. Put OS and most often use programs on the SSD. Everything else, games, storage, media and so on, on the HDD(s).
 
Here's where my build stands as of tonight. Switched to an EVGA card as the MSI was sold out. Any worries there? Definitely looking for input on the case (Fractal Midi), and how many fans total is recommended. My earlier post is below :). And any advice for the build in general.

jUZau.jpg



cwmartin said:
So after convincing myself the BitFenix Merc (http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/chassis/merc-alpha/) was worth waiting for, I was perusing this thread and discovered the Fractal Midi (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352007) and I'm pretty sure its the perfect case for me, and I don't have to wait! Does anyone have any experience with this case or feel the need to steer me in a different direction? Perfect on the following levels:

1. 2 fan slots in front (like the aesthetic)
2. All black, black inside, no window (again, aesthetic)
3. Better cable management than Bitfenix above
4. Top mounted I/O ports

Going to post my entire build here in a few minutes. What do you guys recommend for total # of fans in this thing?
 
cwmartin said:
Here's where my build stands as of tonight. Switched to an EVGA card as the MSI was sold out. Any worries there? Definitely looking for input on the case (Fractal Midi), and how many fans total is recommended. My earlier post is below :). And any advice for the build in general.
Looks fine to me. For $250 you can get the dual fan version of the 560Ti.
ReconYoda said:
Is the SE version of the 460 better?
Slow Edition.
Get a regular GTX 460 1GB or a 560Ti
The 560 is just a faster GTX 460 with some power tweaks.
 
So I finally figured out why my CPU wasn't overclocking, apparently I had to up "CPU voltage value limit 1." however, I'm not sure how high I should be setting this to still ensure stability. Any input, GAF?
 
What's the best graphics card for under $150? I'm looking to buy a new computer and don't want to spend too much but would like to be able to have some decent looking games on it.
 
sn1pes said:
I promised cable management porn, so here goes:

Also fixed the direction of my fan on the H60.

nLxE7l.jpg

I assume that H60 fan is pulling air into the case. You should be aware that it will dump all the dust onto the radiator, slowly reducing it's efficiency. If you chuck a magnetic fan filter on the back, problem solved.

Nice job on the cables, that's what I like about the H series, they make your case much more appealing to the eye, it doesn't look like something from 2001: A Space Odyssey has appeared in your case.
 
Is it me or does the 560 come off as the new 9800 GT, except with an even more misleading name, and possibly without as solid a position price-wise? I'm sure it'll be a more solid choice once it hits $150 while the 560 Ti hovers in the low $200s, but right now... While there's something to be said for not needing to worry about overclocking, with a bit of luck you can get a 560 Ti for $200 after rebate, and even before it'd be a relatively small difference in price.
 
Eusis said:
Is it me or does the 560 come off as the new 9800 GT, except with an even more misleading name, and possibly without as solid a position price-wise? I'm sure it'll be a more solid choice once it hits $150 while the 560 Ti hovers in the low $200s, but right now... While there's something to be said for not needing to worry about overclocking, with a bit of luck you can get a 560 Ti for $200 after rebate, and even before it'd be a relatively small difference in price.
Yup

gtx 460 1gb / 6870 or
gtx 560 ti / 6950
 
Baller said:
This is a post I made in the Deus Ex thread, but I think I'll find more help in this one.

How do I make make the HUD look good when playing with a 360 controller on my comphy couch? I have my PC rigged up to my 32" Bravia via a DVI-to-HDMI cable from Monoprice. When I play the game at 1080p the graphics look great but the HUD is terribly scrunched and difficult to read. Switching the resolution to 1366x768 gives me a much better looking HUD, but obviously the graphics take a hit in clarity. Is there any way to have both? Any resolution besides those two results in an absolutely illegible HUD.

I honestly don't understand how my PS360 can output such clean HUD's but my superpowered PC can only give me blurry bullshit. There has to be something I'm doing wrong.

Any tips?

Anyone? I've tried Google but I can't come up with anything. I feel like I can't be the only person that is bothered by this. I know there are others who play PC games on their TV... what do you guys do to fix this?
 
There's nothing to be done, other than hope for in-game options or mods to fix your issue. PC game HUDs tend to be designed around the idea of a monitor occupying a fairly large field of the player. I'm afraid you're just sitting too far away from your TV.

I probably wouldn't sit further than 4 feet away from a 32" TV.
 
TheExodu5 said:
There's nothing to be done, other than hope for in-game options or mods to fix your issue. PC game HUDs tend to be designed around the idea of a monitor occupying a fairly large field of the player. I'm afraid you're just sitting too far away from your TV.

I probably wouldn't sit further than 4 feet away from a 32" TV.

It's not that it's too small, it's that is super blurry and unreadable. Even if I'm right in front of the screen I can't read the text. At 1366x768 it's readable, but the entire HUD still looks like MLAA has been forced over it by a 3rd party program (I'm using the in-game FXAA). At 1920x1080 it is completely fucked.

Do TV's have drivers? My PC detects it as "Sony TV," but do I need more? And should I be using a different connection, or does that not matter?
 
Baller said:
It's not that it's too small, it's that is super blurry and unreadable. Even if I'm right in front of the screen I can't read the text. At 1366x768 it's readable, but the entire HUD still looks like MLAA has been forced over it by a 3rd party program (I'm using the in-game FXAA). At 1920x1080 it is completely fucked.

Do TV's have drivers? My PC detects it as "Sony TV," but do I need more? And should I be using a different connection, or does that not matter?

I see. I misunderstood your problem.

Well, I am going to make your day. This solution is not documented anywhere!

Go to NVidia Control Panel
Adjust Desktop Color Settings
Scroll to the bottom
Change "Content type reported to the display" to "Desktop frograms"

Hopefully this is the solution to your problem...otherwise my cockiness will make me look rather foolish!
 
TheExodu5 said:
I see. I misunderstood your problem.

Well, I am going to make your day. This solution is not documented anywhere!

Go to NVidia Control Panel
Adjust Desktop Color Settings
Scroll to the bottom
Change "Content type reported to the display" to "Desktop frograms"

Hopefully this is the solution to your problem...otherwise my cockiness will make me look rather foolish!

KejRV.gif


IT WORKED BEAUTIFULLY

Oh Mylanta I'm so happy! I played around a bit and decided to stick with the TV's native resolution of 1360x768, only now I can read the emails and datacards that I pick up! Yessssss. 1080p is now totally doable as well but I think I sit just a smidge too away to be able to see my ammo count in the bottom righthand corner. No big deal. To be honest I can't really notice the resolution difference from this distance, especially with FXAA set to High and all others options maxed under DX11. Amazing!

Damn, now I want to go back and replay Batman: AA with this simple setting. I knew it had to be something really dumb that I was missing. THANK YOU!
 
ASUS P8Z68

red light on the mobo next to the CPU.
nothing comes up on monitor.
no beeps.
checked to see if CPU pins were bent, they weren't.
checked to see if everything was plugged in, they were.

I don't know what's wrong.

:(
 
XAL said:
ASUS P8Z68

red light on the mobo next to the CPU.
nothing comes up on monitor.
no beeps.
checked to see if CPU pins were bent, they weren't.
checked to see if everything was plugged in, they were.

I don't know what's wrong.

:(

Make sure your Ram is in real tight.
 
Jarrod4321 said:
Make sure your Ram is in real tight.

I popped them out and put them in again, nothing has changed.

When I hit the power, everything turns on for 3 seconds, turns off for 2, then turns back on...
I don't know if that's supposed to happen.
 
OK. So I had a problem with the PC but no one helped so I let that problem slide ans considered the issue abnormal. Today, my problem with the PC just got worse. I had a problem where if I wake my PC from a long sleep, it would fail to provide any video or I/O. Then after changing my graphics card, once a day or any random interval, the video output would die off and I would have to restate for it to work.

Today, while trying to update my iPhone, it would stop reading the drivers properly for the iPhone, and even if I wanted to repair it, it'll still say that the device is not working properly.

Upon restarting, it stopped recognizing my keyboard, my mouse and the Ethernet card. The keyboard works during BIOS boot and other selections but as soon as Windows start booting, the keyboard, mouse and Ethernet lights would go off. The keyboard light works when a key is pressed but nothing happens. Same with the mouse i.e. the laser's red light shines on when a button is clicked and held but upon releasing it, the lights turns off.

I thought it might be my new card overloading the PSU so I removed the card and restartrd the PC and the same problem exists.

The VGA port of the motherboard responds but nothing else does.

I don't know whether my power supply is done for, my motherboard is done for or something else is dead or dying. It might be the motherboard but then again the video card is running and motherboard's VGA port is running, and harddrive is running as well. Under BIOS, the keyboard and mouse are well recognized.

Maybe Windows is being a bitch about it and I need to repair it? I have the same problem in safe mode. BOOTMGR got corrupted a few days ago due to the PC abruptly getting not enough power and shutting off. I did repair and restore it though.

I'm so frustrated and lost. It's either Windows, Motherboard or the power supply (with is 550W so it's sufficient enough for a PC with no Overclocking).



P.S. Side note: while playing TF2 today, the flame effects were wonky and instead of fire, they were red square blocks instead... :/


TL;DR: Help! :(
 
shagg_187 said:
OK. So I had a problem with the PC but no one helped so I let that problem slide ans considered the issue abnormal. Today, my problem with the PC just got worse. I had a problem where if I wake my PC from a long sleep, it would fail to provide any video or I/O. Then after changing my graphics card, once a day or any random interval, the video output would die off and I would have to restate for it to work.

Today, while trying to update my iPhone, it would stop reading the drivers properly for the iPhone, and even if I wanted to repair it, it'll still say that the device is not working properly.

Upon restarting, it stopped recognizing my keyboard, my mouse and the Ethernet card. The keyboard works during BIOS boot and other selections but as soon as Windows start booting, the keyboard, mouse and Ethernet lights would go off. The keyboard light works when a key is pressed but nothing happens. Same with the mouse i.e. the laser's red light shines on when a button is clicked and held but upon releasing it, the lights turns off.

I thought it might be my new card overloading the PSU so I removed the card and restartrd the PC and the same problem exists.

The VGA port of the motherboard responds but nothing else does.

I don't know whether my power supply is done for, my motherboard is done for or something else is dead or dying. It might be the motherboard but then again the video card is running and motherboard's VGA port is running, and harddrive is running as well. Under BIOS, the keyboard and mouse are well recognized.

Maybe Windows is being a bitch about it and I need to repair it? I have the same problem in safe mode. BOOTMGR got corrupted a few days ago due to the PC abruptly getting not enough power and shutting off. I did repair and restore it though.

I'm so frustrated and lost. It's either Windows, Motherboard or the power supply (with is 550W so it's sufficient enough for a PC with no Overclocking).



P.S. Side note: while playing TF2 today, the flame effects were wonky and instead of fire, they were red square blocks instead... :/


TL;DR: Help! :(

I have the video problem as well, always have with all my PC's. It may just be the common problem occurred then something I the background all fucked u causing worse things to happen,it may be the psu.
 
NIN90 said:
My PC kept crashing lately so I started to investigate.
Turns out that my CPU (Phenom II X4 940 with stock cooler) runs pretty hot (55C idle) and my CPU fan runs anywhere between 4000 and 6000 RPM which seems a little high.
Here is a screen shot of my idle temps:

temphure.png


So what should I do? Get a new fan for my CPU? Is a Scythe Katana 3 SCKTN-300 alright?

Can I get a little more input on this? Should I apply new thermal paste on the CPU? My overall temps seems high, would a new fan for my CPU even make a difference or is it a general problem with airflow?
 
if your cpu fan is actually moving about (i've assumed youve looked at it without the case side on) then i doubt that's it. i'd say it's be worth reapplying your cpu compound/thermal paste.

also, are you coming onto me?
 
NIN90 said:
Can I get a little more input on this? Should I apply new thermal paste on the CPU? My overall temps seems high, would a new fan for my CPU even make a difference or is it a general problem with airflow?
I replied but I was the last post on the page. Is your PC OEM or did you build it? OEMs are going to have really crappy temps, but they shouldn't be that bad. Reseating the heatsink would probably be enough as long as your CPU fan is actually working, most coolers aren't going to fit in your case if it's manufactured.

If you built it and you're still using the stock cooler, it wouldn't be a bad time to invest in something better. Hyper 212+ is only a few dollars more than the cooler you mentioned, but it will cool a lot better (but it's also bigger).
 
chaosblade said:
I replied but I was the last post on the page. Is your PC OEM or did you build it? OEMs are going to have really crappy temps, but they shouldn't be that bad. Reseating the heatsink would probably be enough as long as your CPU fan is actually working, most coolers aren't going to fit in your case if it's manufactured.

If you built it and you're still using the stock cooler, it wouldn't be a bad time to invest in something better. Hyper 212+ is only a few dollars more than the cooler you mentioned, but it will cool a lot better (but it's also bigger).

Well it's an OEM PC but I got it through a promo from a local PC gaming magazine so it was actually made with future updates in mind.
A bigger cooler should fit no problem from what I can see plus I keep the case side panel off.
 
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