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[TheExodu5]

I still can't decide on a keyboard to get.

I think I'm ruling out the Topre. Too much money for a first high-end keyboard.

Cherry MX Brown seem the way to go for me. DAS is readily available here, but I don't think I'm a fan of the fingerprint magnet design. Leopold looks really nice, and is available in Tenkeyless as well, which might be an option I would consider. Then there's also WASD, which would allow me to customize and add O-rings if I wanted to (not sure yet...haven't heard/felt mechanical yet).

 

[Le-mo]

In games? The 6950. SSD will help with load times though. So you want a few seconds better load time, or more frames per second?

Will I be able to crossfire fine if I buy a different brand of 6950 and with a 650W PSU?

 

[T-Matt]

So is there a cheaper way to get Windows than the builders version? It will be going on a new hard drive so I don't think I can use the upgrade version unless there is some workaround.

 

[Angry Grimace]

So is there a cheaper way to get Windows than the builders version? It will be going on a new hard drive so I don't think I can use the upgrade version unless there is some workaround.

You can use upgrade media just fine with a "double install." You install it once without the activation code and then install it again over the first install. This is actually supported by Microsoft.

 

[T-Matt]

You can use upgrade media just fine with a "double install." You install it once without the activation code and then install it again over the first install. This is actually supported by Microsoft.

Cool, did not know about that.

 

[Stalfos]

So is there a cheaper way to get Windows than the builders version? It will be going on a new hard drive so I don't think I can use the upgrade version unless there is some workaround.

Same as above, you can get an upgrade version. If you are a student you can get it even cheaper. When I did my build it was still $30 but now you can get it for $65 which is still better than a regular upgrade version I believe http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msstore/pd/productID.216644200

 

[Syphon Filter]

No sound on headphones when plugged to monitor. I plugged the green piece to the monitor port and there is no sound. Anyone know what the problem is?

 

[LordCanti]

No sound on headphones when plugged to monitor. I plugged the green piece to the monitor port and there is no sound. Anyone know what the problem is?

Click the little volume icon in your task bar. Make sure the volume isn't muted. If that wasn't the case, right click it, and click "volume mixer". Make sure everything is all the way up, and that the device is set to your monitor.

If all else fails, make sure you're plugging your headphones into the correct port (and the green cable into the correct port on your PC).

 

[bigace33]

Ok guys I bought the XFX HD Radeon 6850. This thing sounds like a mini helicopter compared to my old trusty 5570. I'm using MSI afterburner to tone the fan down a bit but I don't know what is a safe speed for the fan to run to keep my relatively small computer case nice and cool. I turned it down to 40%. My GPU temp is registering 51c without playing any games. What fan speed and temp should I shoot for?

 

[ombz]

In games? The 6950. SSD will help with load times though. So you want a few seconds better load time, or more frames per second?



Try and unstick the power button. Outside of that, if you have multiple sticks of ram, take all but one out. See if it still crashes. If so, switch that one out with another until you've eliminated that possibility. Post back how it goes.

I did as you said but the system still shut off after a second.
Here's a picture of the inside. I don't have it screwed in because i thought the screws might be messing something up.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b187/Holly99/IMG_5522.jpg

 

[Wallach]

I still can't decide on a keyboard to get.

I think I'm ruling out the Topre. Too much money for a first high-end keyboard.

Cherry MX Brown seem the way to go for me. DAS is readily available here, but I don't think I'm a fan of the fingerprint magnet design. Leopold looks really nice, and is available in Tenkeyless as well, which might be an option I would consider. Then there's also WASD, which would allow me to customize and add O-rings if I wanted to (not sure yet...haven't heard/felt mechanical yet).

Personally I'm not too crazy on Leopolds because they use cherry stabilizers. I always recommend something with wire stabilizers; DAS or Filco if you're set on browns. I'd toss the Rosewill RK-9000 in there but they have only restocked with black and blue on Newegg - that would be a pretty much perfect first mechanical. Were it me I'd get a board with blues for my first mechanical anyway, though.

Edit - I take it back! There does seem to be both browns and reds for the RK-9000:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201042

I would definitely recommend that as a starter board. Awesome quality, good price. They also have one w/ red switches for $129. I'm probably going to grab one of those for myself.

 

[Mistle]

Why does my computer sometimes indefinitely hang on the Asus motherboard boot up screen after installing a new internal harddrive?

It hangs on the screen about 4 out of 5 times :/

 

[Tonner Cyn]

I think this was answered somewhat recently but I can't for the life of me find it. I got another 120mm and 140mm fan to add to my case. I ordered a couple of 3-pin splitters thinking I would need them. As it turns out, one of the system fan jumpers on my mobo is empty so I can probably use that for power. I do have a few questions though.

1 - I have an H60 installed. The 120mm fan that came with is connected between the rear of the case and the radiator. It looked to be installed with the front side of the fan (the side with the name brand label) facing into the case, I believe blowing air into the case. Should this be facing the other way, blowing air out of the case?
2 - How the heck do you tighten screws into these fans??? Both of the new fans I have I would want to screw in the screws to the bottom lip of the fan casing. Using a regular screwdriver that looks to be pretty much impossible. Help?
3 - I noticed that the 140mm fan already installed on the top of my case looks to be drawing air into the case. Is this the correct orientation?

It was a little depressing to realize I couldn't install the fans tonight. Hopefully it is just a matter of getting the right tools. Thanks!

EDIT: Ok, after doing some looking on youtube I think I figured out which way the fans exhaust. There is a 120mm at the front of my case. That should exhaust into the case, right? Then the top 140mm (times 2 once I get some longer screws) and the push/pull set up on the H60 (again, after I get longer screws) should exhaust out of the case. Is that right?

EDIT2: This is why I haven't built a computer to this point. I just realized I could take the front and top of the case off. That allowed me to install the 140mm to the top. I also noticed that the fan on the back connected to the H60 was installed the right way so I changed that back. I swear temps were a couple degrees cooler the other way but oh well. I do think I need longer screws to connect the 120mm to the radiator. Hopefully Fry's will have those.

 

[Hero_of_the_Day]

So. Finally put the system together. It won't connect to the internet. Just says no connections available. I'm plugging directly into the modem and have tried a couple different cables. I have a p8p67 pro. Any guesses? Going to suck to have to RMA the board.

 

[XiaNaphryz]

So. Finally put the system together. It won't connect to the internet. Just says no connections available. I'm plugging directly into the modem and have tried a couple different cables. I have a p8p67 pro. Any guesses? Going to suck to have to RMA the board.

Might be a dumb question, but are you sure you installed the network drivers along with the rest of the motherboard drivers?

 

[Pocks]

So. Finally put the system together. It won't connect to the internet. Just says no connections available. I'm plugging directly into the modem and have tried a couple different cables. I have a p8p67 pro. Any guesses? Going to suck to have to RMA the board.

You've probably already tried this.. but uninstall the Ethernet driver and reinstall from website.

EDIT: Beaten, and by a very wide margin at that.

 

[Hero_of_the_Day]

Might be a dumb question, but are you sure you installed the network drivers along with the rest of the motherboard drivers?

Yeah. Uninstalled the ones off the disk and reinstalled a newest version from the asus site also. Fund a couple other people complaining of the same problem. One of them posted it just fixed itself the next day. This sucks.

Edit: orange light on the back just keeps flashing, green light isn't lighting up at all. If I go into the diagnostics section in the driver utility and run the cable test, it tells me it is detecting a faulty cable. I've now tried three different cables, all of which are working fine on other computers.

EDIT 2: Alright. Started changing random shit and changed the "speed and duplex" setting to 10 Mbps full duplex and it started working. Downloading drivers from nvidia now and it is going slower then fuck. Like 13 kbs. I like my old simple ethernet drivers better then this new fancy shit with a billion options that I don't have a clue about.

 

[Velion]

Yeah. Uninstalled the ones off the disk and reinstalled a newest version from the asus site also. Fund a couple other people complaining of the same problem. One of them posted it just fixed itself the next day. This sucks.

Edit: orange light on the back just keeps flashing, green light isn't lighting up at all. If I go into the diagnostics section in the driver utility and run the cable test, it tells me it is detecting a faulty cable. I've now tried three different cables, all of which are working fine on other computers.

Have you restarted your router/modem as well? Yeah I know its sounds stupid but that can be the problem as well sometimes

 

[Hero_of_the_Day]

Yes, I've reset my modem.

So yeah, setting it to 10Mbps is the only thing that works (either full or half duplex works fine). But internet is now super slow and when I run the connection test it tells me that the adapter is configured to force the speed to a low speed. The fuck? Why?

EDIT: So, yeah. Doing some googling and I'm finding tons of people who have had this problem with this intel adapter. Awesome. I'm going to sleep. Try and figure out what to do tomorrow. Maybe I'll actually get a game installed tomorrow and see how this beast goes. Fucking intel...

 

[LordCanti]

Yes, I've reset my modem.

So yeah, setting it to 10Mbps is the only thing that works (either full or half duplex works fine). But internet is now super slow and when I run the connection test it tells me that the adapter is configured to force the speed to a low speed. The fuck? Why?

EDIT: So, yeah. Doing some googling and I'm finding tons of people who have had this problem with this intel adapter. Awesome. I'm going to sleep. Try and figure out what to do tomorrow. Maybe I'll actually get a game installed tomorrow and see how this beast goes. Fucking intel...

The good news is that an add-in Ethernet NIC is cheap if you have to go that route. I know I've seen them for $10-$15 on Newegg.

 

[Hazaro]

Yes, I've reset my modem.

So yeah, setting it to 10Mbps is the only thing that works (either full or half duplex works fine). But internet is now super slow and when I run the connection test it tells me that the adapter is configured to force the speed to a low speed. The fuck? Why?

EDIT: So, yeah. Doing some googling and I'm finding tons of people who have had this problem with this intel adapter. Awesome. I'm going to sleep. Try and figure out what to do tomorrow. Maybe I'll actually get a game installed tomorrow and see how this beast goes. Fucking intel...

Intel NICs are better, that is too bad.

Tried jiggling the cable or using a different one? I know you probably have used it before but you never know.
Also check around the NIC area for any damage/dust/loose screw.

 

[Yaska]

So got a new WD caviar black. But it's keeping this weird clicking noise now and then. Should I get worried?

 

[Mulligan]

So my first gaming spec is coming together, i have a question though. I'm going for an i5 2500k and GTX580 setup which i plan to overclock both, will a 750w PSU do the job?
The PSU in question is http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/powersupplies/nov-psb750.html

 

[chaosblade]

So got a new WD caviar black. But it's keeping this weird clicking noise now and then. Should I get worried?

Clicking from an HDD is never a good thing. I'm not sure if clicking alone would be covered under warranty, but I would absolutely never have anything on that HDD that's not backed up.

So my first gaming spec is coming together, i have a question though. I'm going for an i5 2500k and GTX580 setup which i plan to overclock both, will a 750w PSU do the job?
The PSU in question is http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/powersupplies/nov-psb750.html

I can't vouch for the quality of that PSU (not sure I'd trust it myself) but a good 750W would be fine. You would probably be okay with a 650W, but that might limit your OCing. Not really sure.

 

[ToyMachine228]

So I bought a house and I won't be able to take my current PC with me. I need a new PC and fast. I need everything from the tower to the monitor, mouse and keyboard. Can anyone recommend an really affordable PC that ships assembled for me? My needs and wants are pretty simple. It needs to be able to play Blizzard and Valve games and look pretty decent but that's about it. I do most of my gaming on consoles. Other than that, just the basic functions, Windows 7, etc. Any recommendations would be much appreciated, I'm not really all that knowledgeable when it comes to computers.

 

[Hero_of_the_Day]

Intel NICs are better, that is too bad.

Tried jiggling the cable or using a different one? I know you probably have used it before but you never know.
Also check around the NIC area for any damage/dust/loose screw.

Yeah, tried everything. The only thing that works is setting the speed to 10Mbps. Of course, then my internet is worthlessly slow. I found like five or six posts to various forums of people complaining about the problem. I'm surprised I'm the first person on Gaf to have it.

 

[Mulligan]

I can't vouch for the quality of that PSU (not sure I'd trust it myself) but a good 750W would be fine. You would probably be okay with a 650W, but that might limit your OCing. Not really sure.

2 year warranty and 17 5star reviews, seems trustworthy. Thanks for the reply

 

[ToyMachine228]

Alternatively, if someone can build a PC for me at a place that will assemble it, that's cool too. There is a pretty well known computer shop in my area but I imagine they probably charge quite a bit.

 

[chaosblade]

So I bought a house and I won't be able to take my current PC with me. I need a new PC and fast. I need everything from the tower to the monitor, mouse and keyboard. Can anyone recommend an really affordable PC that ships assembled for me? My needs and wants are pretty simple. It needs to be able to play Blizzard and Valve games and look pretty decent but that's about it. I do most of my gaming on consoles. Other than that, just the basic functions, Windows 7, etc. Any recommendations would be much appreciated, I'm not really all that knowledgeable when it comes to computers.

Alternatively, if someone can build a PC for me at a place that will assemble it, that's cool too. There is a pretty well known computer shop in my area but I imagine they probably charge quite a bit.

Filling out the template in the OP would have helped. What is your budget and what resolution/size monitor do you want?

NCIX builds for $50, and I think they price match sites like Newegg. There are other options like CyberPower but I don't know much about their reputation. A few people here have gotten PCs through them though.

 

[Jibbed]

I'm trying to unlock the shaders on my 6950 to those of a 6970 using ATI WinFlash but I keep getting the message 'Subsystem IDs mismatch'... help?

My card is a basic ASUS 2GB 6950 at stock clocks, I've tried a few different bios files from ASUS and other manufacturers... no luck :/

 

[Lonely1]

How much of difference is bettwen a 580 and a 570? Is it worth the Paying almost $350 USD difference I would have to pay here?

 

[RivalCore]

Dear PC-Gods of Gaf,

My patience is wearing slightly thin and I'm about to pull the trigger on a new rig. Haven't owned a decent rig in about 6 years so I'm excited as hell about ordering.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Aiming to keep it under a €1000 (currently at €900). I have a copy of Windows 7 64bit and access to an old dvd drive so I don't need to account for those.

I'll be running a Dell 27" and I'm slightly unsure about whether I need to get a displayport on the GPU or not. Will I notice any difference over DVI? It will mostly be used for general purpose stuff, games and a slight bit of CAD/Graphics work but I have a workstation for that in work.

Am I all good?

 

[chaosblade]

Dear PC-Gods of Gaf,

My patience is wearing slightly thin and I'm about to pull the trigger on a new rig. Haven't owned a decent rig in about 6 years so I'm excited as hell about ordering.


Aiming to keep it under a €1000 (currently at €900). I have a copy of Windows 7 64bit and access to an old dvd drive so I don't need to account for those.

I'll be running a Dell 27" and I'm slightly unsure about whether I need to get a displayport on the GPU or not. Will I notice any difference over DVI? It will mostly be used for general purpose stuff, games and a slight bit of CAD/Graphics work but I have a workstation for that in work.

Am I all good?

Don't get the LE board, it's gimped and you won't be able to OC as well on it. I think the Asus Pro mATX board is usually around the same price and will work better. It's mATX, but unless you're going to add in a lot of cards it shouldn't matter.

Wouldn't get the AS5, the 212+ includes thermal paste that will be almost as good. If you want something better go with MX-4, Chillfactor 3, x23-7783d, IC Diamond, etc.

Might want to get some 1.5v RAM if possible instead of 1.65v, better compatibility.

I'd also recommend against a F4 as your only drive, since it's a "green" drive and (as far as I know) spins down quicker than standard drives. That will cause the drive to wear out more quickly. Not sure how much quicker, you might replace it or get another one before it happens.

Not sure about the DisplayPort question, I've never looked at resolutions beyond 1080p so I'm not sure if you would need anything other than HDMI/DVI for that.

I'm trying to unlock the shaders on my 6950 to those of a 6970 using ATI WinFlash but I keep getting the message 'Subsystem IDs mismatch'... help?

My card is a basic ASUS 2GB 6950 at stock clocks, I've tried a few different bios files from ASUS and other manufacturers... no luck :/

So it's reference? Is it a newer one or the original one? Don't think the new ones can be unlocked.

 

[toxicgonzo]

How much of difference is bettwen a 580 and a 570? Is it worth the Paying almost $350 USD difference I would have to pay here?

10-15%.

Not worth it to me, but depending on your financial situation, it might be.

 

[Karmum]

Need to upgrade from my 19" Hannspree. What is the "best" monitor in like the ~$150 - ~$200 range? It's going to be soon, but not like today or tomorrow. If there are any known monitors on the horizon, that's worth pointing out, too. Like if there are significant deals on Black Friday for monitors, then I'll wait until then.

Just got a spare desk and decide once I get my new monitor I'll hook up my PS3 or X360 and play games on that. Won't even have to get up to play anymore.

Have to check off a new monitor and laptop and I'm done with all these pricey purchases.

From 10/3. Sorry for the bump.

 

[Hazaro]

How much of difference is bettwen a 580 and a 570? Is it worth the Paying almost $350 USD difference I would have to pay here?

$350? Hell no.

I'm trying to unlock the shaders on my 6950 to those of a 6970 using ATI WinFlash but I keep getting the message 'Subsystem IDs mismatch'... help?

My card is a basic ASUS 2GB 6950 at stock clocks, I've tried a few different bios files from ASUS and other manufacturers... no luck :/

If your card doesn't say AMD above the PCI-E connector don't bother.
I had 6950 unlock stuff bookmarked, but I cleaned them out yesterday because I couldn't unlock mine.
* http://verrytechnical.com/safely-unlocking-extra-shaders-in-reference-amd-6950-graphics-cards/

From 10/3. Sorry for the bump.

Depends what you are looking for. Most cheap TN panels are very similar, just buy whatever is on sale. Newer E-IPS panels are coming down in price and have better image quality I think. Almost always some good monitor deals for BF.

 

[Pocks]

I'm looking upgrade my dad's PC, which he uses for everyday tasks: web browsing, Word, Skype, etc. Hoping to keep it under $200, and this is what I've come up with. I upgraded my mom's PC back in June with the same motherboard, processor, and RAM as below, and it's worked well for her.

Mobo: BIOSTAR A880G+ AM3 AMD 880G — $60
CPU: AMD Athlon II X2 255 Regor 3.1GHz — $63
RAM: G.SKILL NS 2GB 240-Pin DDR3 — $15
PSU: Rosewill RV350 350W ATX 1.3 Power Supply — $27
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 7200 RPM — $40

TOTAL: $189 (after combo discounts)

 

[Hazaro]

I'd also recommend against a F4 as your only drive, since it's a "green" drive and (as far as I know) spins down quicker than standard drives. That will cause the drive to wear out more quickly. Not sure how much quicker, you might replace it or get another one before it happens..

F4 as main drive is fine imo. It's 15% slower in read/seek than an F3 1TB which is plenty fast today. I ran one and it is not noticeable.

Everything else is good.

I'm looking upgrade my dad's PC, which he uses for everyday tasks: web browsing, Word, Skype, etc. Hoping to keep it under $200, and this is what I've come up with. I upgraded my mom's PC back in June with the same motherboard, processor, and RAM as below, and it's worked well for her.

Mobo: BIOSTAR A880G+ AM3 AMD 880G — $60
CPU: AMD Athlon II X2 255 Regor 3.1GHz — $63
RAM: G.SKILL NS 2GB 240-Pin DDR3 — $15
PSU: Rosewill RV350 350W ATX 1.3 Power Supply — $27
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 7200 RPM — $40

TOTAL: $189 (after combo discounts)

If you are just going with a dual core, the Intel G540 is a better buy. More recent and just faster overall unless you want to stick with AMD. Check the OP.

Also switch the PSU to a Corsair CX430W or SeaSonic SS-350SFE 350W.
Yes it is more expensive but it will use less power and not crap out on you down the line. Worth the investment.
Also you want 2x1GB for RAM so you have dual channel.

 

[chaosblade]

F4 as main drive is fine imo. It's 15% slower in read/seek than an F3 1TB which is plenty fast today. I ran one and it is not noticeable.

Everything else is good.

Speed wasn't the concern, but I looked it up and apparently the F4 doesn't have an idle spindown like other green drives, so it's hardly "Green" at all. So the issue I brought up isn't a problem with that drive.

 

[Hazaro]

Speed wasn't the concern, but I looked it up and apparently the F4 doesn't have an idle spindown like other green drives, so it's hardly "Green" at all. So the issue I brought up isn't a problem with that drive.

I usually hear, "5400 bad", which is why I mentioned that. I think it spins down as my non OS drive? Not sure. It is very quiet though which is nice.

 

[chaosblade]

Corsair 500r (Black) for $109 after rebate on Amazon. Getting mine right now.

Edit: And the rebate disappeared after I ordered. Hmm.

Edit2: Got it, their rebate form link seems to be freaking out, this should be a direct link:

Rebate Form

 

[Karmum]

$350? Hell no.

If your card doesn't say AMD above the PCI-E connector don't bother.
I had 6950 unlock stuff bookmarked, but I cleaned them out yesterday because I couldn't unlock mine.
* http://verrytechnical.com/safely-unlocking-extra-shaders-in-reference-amd-6950-graphics-cards/

Depends what you are looking for. Most cheap TN panels are very similar, just buy whatever is on sale. Newer E-IPS panels are coming down in price and have better image quality I think. Almost always some good monitor deals for BF.

Anything around 23" - 25" that isn't too pricey. Basically what I'm trying to say is are the deals significantly better around BF? Probably be better off buying an new one around now and wait for a nice BF sale on laptops. I've been going back and forth between a Viewsonic or an Asus, the latter obviously being the more popular one.

Damnit.

Edit - I also imagine they sell some kind of box or device that allows me to hook up two monitors together. Basically, instead of hooking up another computer to my eventual spare monitor, I could switch between the two with the press of a button.

 

[chrisisawesome]

I have a quick question.
I'm upgrading my graphics card from an HD4850 to a GTX 560t, and I just wanted to be sure I completely install the drivers correctly.
I read that I should install Drive Cleaner and run it in safe mode to remove the ATI drivers. Then I put in the new GTX 560ti card to my pc and install the nvidia drivers?

Is this the best way to go about it?

 

[MrBelmontvedere]

Edit - I also imagine they sell some kind of box or device that allows me to hook up two monitors together. Basically, instead of hooking up another computer to my eventual spare monitor, I could switch between the two with the press of a button.

there should be at least 2 DVI ports on the rear of your GPU

get 2 DVI->HDMI cables (if needed) and set it up in whatever drivers you're using

no extra box needed

 

[n0n44m]

Yeah, tried everything. The only thing that works is setting the speed to 10Mbps. Of course, then my internet is worthlessly slow. I found like five or six posts to various forums of people complaining about the problem. I'm surprised I'm the first person on Gaf to have it.

hmm my p8p67 pro internal NIC works great ... 980 Mbit (99% utilization of a 1 Gbps connection) with Iperf testing (with two switches in between and 40 meters of Cat5-E)

make sure to grab the drivers from the Intel site itself

if only 10 Mbps works, that's normally an issue with the cable. If you say other cables don't work either, and they do work with other systems, it may be a physical defect of the motherboards port

can you test it on something else, like connect it to a switch or something ?

 

[ToyMachine228]

Filling out the template in the OP would have helped. What is your budget and what resolution/size monitor do you want?

Anyone want to tell me what they think of this?

http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=349869&CatId=3839

Like I said earlier, I only really need a PC that plays Blizzard and Valve games. It doesn't need to be able to run Crysis 2 on high settings. I honestly have no idea what I'm looking for when it comes to PC shopping so tell me what you think of the one above, and feel free to make any other recommendations. Thanks!

 

[metalshade]

Seems like you guys are the sort of experts I need!
I will come clean right from the start, I dont know my CPU from my GPU, however, I want to build myself a steam box to go behind my HDTV, and I live in the UK, unfortunately, the guides posted wont really help me, could you guys please advise?
I dont need to run at ultra settings or anything, but medium/high would still blow my 360 out of the water right?
I am on a tight budget, its gonna be difficult to convince my wife at all, lol.
Any help or suggestions really appreciated.
Thankyou for reading!

 

[snoopen]

Seems like you guys are the sort of experts I need!
I will come clean right from the start, I dont know my CPU from my GPU, however, I want to build myself a steam box to go behind my HDTV, and I live in the UK, unfortunately, the guides posted wont really help me, could you guys please advise?
I dont need to run at ultra settings or anything, but medium/high would still blow my 360 out of the water right?
I am on a tight budget, its gonna be difficult to convince my wife at all, lol.
Any help or suggestions really appreciated.
Thankyou for reading!

Read the OP, seriously.

Anyways I'm torn between a gtx580 now or something like a 6950 and upgradin to gtx6xx next year :/

 

[sp3000]

If any of you have microcenters around, you can get a gtx 580 for 380. It's a bargain at that price.

 

[Smokey]

How much of difference is bettwen a 580 and a 570? Is it worth the Paying almost $350 USD difference I would have to pay here?

:'|

No.