"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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so either turn it off or set the file to be a fixed amount so it doesn't thrash your HD by dynamically growing.vertopci said:it's off of my SSD drive and on my secondary drive. I currently have 12 GB RAM so it's not like I'm running out of memory or anything
Wolf Akela
Member
I'm about to bite, GAF.
Crucial M4 64GB or Intel 80GB X25-M?
X25-M = $120 (2 mos used, 3 mos warranty)
X25-M = $155 (new)
M4 = $150 (new)
Gonna use as OS disk so reliability is the most important factor.
Crucial M4 64GB or Intel 80GB X25-M?
X25-M = $120 (2 mos used, 3 mos warranty)
X25-M = $155 (new)
M4 = $150 (new)
Gonna use as OS disk so reliability is the most important factor.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Can't help with a 200mm fan, but here are some reviews for 120/140mm fans.PGamer said:
140mm Roundup - Conclusion:
120mm <1350 RPM Roundup - Conclusion:
Any one. If you can get a non stock cooler for $10 or $15 more go for it.Mulligan said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125401
$200 AR + Batman.
Yes the ATi cards will use less power. What is your PSU model, might be fine.Cyrix said:
If you can spend $260 get a 2GB 6950.KrawlMan said:
X25-M then. They've been out a long long time and some people are still running them. No Intel 320 where you are?Wolf Akela said:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=31682940&postcount=573
I'm selling a H100 cooler and an Asrock P67 Extreme4 mobo. Both are 2 months old and all packaging/parts/manuals included
I just couldn't live with a big mid-tower anymore. Switched over to a Silverstone TJ08B-E case. Awesome case for mATX builds. It's Silverstone so it's got its quirks, but you can get so much performance from mATX nowadays, I recommend any new builders to look in to a smaller FF build.
I'm selling a H100 cooler and an Asrock P67 Extreme4 mobo. Both are 2 months old and all packaging/parts/manuals included
I just couldn't live with a big mid-tower anymore. Switched over to a Silverstone TJ08B-E case. Awesome case for mATX builds. It's Silverstone so it's got its quirks, but you can get so much performance from mATX nowadays, I recommend any new builders to look in to a smaller FF build.
Mr Nightman
Banned
Well, was just browsing some stuff on newegg, and my pc randomly restarted. Screen went black and upon post it gave me a hyper transport sync flood error has occured, press f1 to continue. What exactly causes this error? looked around and couldn't find a real answer. my specs are:
phenom 2 x4 945 3ghz
4gb of g skill 1333 ddr3
msi 870 g45 am3 motherboard
phenom 2 x4 945 3ghz
4gb of g skill 1333 ddr3
msi 870 g45 am3 motherboard
Alex
Member
I am having an impossible time buying a keyboard.
-I want something that won't break the bank, maybe something I could get for ~50, even if it means going to Ebay or refurbished.
-I would like something with illumination/blacklit.
-I would like one that works well enough for gaming but that isn't blinged up with 60 macro keys, LCD screens, and all sorts of shit. Basically, I just don't want it to look absolutely ridiculous.
I thought I had found my answer in that Logitech Illuminated board but apparently it has some sort of key matrix that's worse than a 5 dollar Rosewill off of Newegg and struggles with 3+ key combinations.
Frustrating! Right now I'm just leaning towards a G110 or something, it's not pretty but if I'm going to go tacky I may as well enjoy a USB port for my mouse and a jack for my headphones.
I'd love to take any other recommendations , though!
-I want something that won't break the bank, maybe something I could get for ~50, even if it means going to Ebay or refurbished.
-I would like something with illumination/blacklit.
-I would like one that works well enough for gaming but that isn't blinged up with 60 macro keys, LCD screens, and all sorts of shit. Basically, I just don't want it to look absolutely ridiculous.
I thought I had found my answer in that Logitech Illuminated board but apparently it has some sort of key matrix that's worse than a 5 dollar Rosewill off of Newegg and struggles with 3+ key combinations.
Frustrating! Right now I'm just leaning towards a G110 or something, it's not pretty but if I'm going to go tacky I may as well enjoy a USB port for my mouse and a jack for my headphones.
I'd love to take any other recommendations , though!
Wolf Akela
Member
Are SSDs also subject to the same kind of numbering thing that HDDs have? Like 640GB actually just being ~590GB?
Just ordered up...
16 GB DDR3 2133 MHz (2x http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231468 )
Corsair Graphite 600T ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139007 )
Corsair AX750 PSU (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139016 )
Four 120 mm Scythe Kama 2 fans ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032UMMCE/?tag=neogaf0e-20 )
Lite-On BluRay burner ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LPHKWG/?tag=neogaf0e-20 )
Two Crucail M4 256 GBs ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W2JL2A/?tag=neogaf0e-20 )
Just need the motherboard and CPU now. Figured I'd order what I could now instead of waiting for Wednesday (Bulldozer), just to make sure I get all my shit in time. I have Friday off so I plan to build my shit this weekend.
I'll be reusing my 6970 from my current machine, as well as the monitor/speakers/keyboard/mouse. I've already got my wifi card, and I've got a 2TB NAS drive for bulk storage (which will be connected to my PC via ethernet, then bridged so it can hit the whole network). Probably won't even bother moving my X-Fi over, though it depends on what motherboard I end up getting I guess.
Yes, and sometimes it's a bit worse.
All storage devices are marketed with GB meaning 1 billion bytes, when GB actually means 1,073,741,824 bytes. A lot of SSDs are also marketed with the hard over provisioned space included. This is storage that the drive sets aside to help with garbage collection, deal with trim not being supported, and in general mitigate performance degradation over time. With some controllers you can choose to over provision even more space by simply leaving a chunk of the drive unformatted.
Just check a review if a few % of capacity is going to be an issue.
I was concerned about capacity on a "256 GB" drive. So I bough two. LOL.
16 GB DDR3 2133 MHz (2x http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231468 )
Corsair Graphite 600T ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139007 )
Corsair AX750 PSU (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139016 )
Four 120 mm Scythe Kama 2 fans ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032UMMCE/?tag=neogaf0e-20 )
Lite-On BluRay burner ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LPHKWG/?tag=neogaf0e-20 )
Two Crucail M4 256 GBs ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W2JL2A/?tag=neogaf0e-20 )
Just need the motherboard and CPU now. Figured I'd order what I could now instead of waiting for Wednesday (Bulldozer), just to make sure I get all my shit in time. I have Friday off so I plan to build my shit this weekend.
I'll be reusing my 6970 from my current machine, as well as the monitor/speakers/keyboard/mouse. I've already got my wifi card, and I've got a 2TB NAS drive for bulk storage (which will be connected to my PC via ethernet, then bridged so it can hit the whole network). Probably won't even bother moving my X-Fi over, though it depends on what motherboard I end up getting I guess.
Wolf Akela said:
Yes, and sometimes it's a bit worse.
All storage devices are marketed with GB meaning 1 billion bytes, when GB actually means 1,073,741,824 bytes. A lot of SSDs are also marketed with the hard over provisioned space included. This is storage that the drive sets aside to help with garbage collection, deal with trim not being supported, and in general mitigate performance degradation over time. With some controllers you can choose to over provision even more space by simply leaving a chunk of the drive unformatted.
Just check a review if a few % of capacity is going to be an issue.
I was concerned about capacity on a "256 GB" drive. So I bough two. LOL.
Yes. It's comes from 1 gigabyte is actually 1,073,741,824 bytes but they market it as if the conversion is 1,000,000,000 bytes. Then there overhead from formatting and then SSDs have spare storage set aside for reliability and wear. Most drives will list actual formatted capacity in their specifications which will tell you how much real space there is.Wolf Akela said:
ecosse_011172
Banned
I'm looking to put together a small, quiet gaming rig for use with a 50" 1080p Plasma and I'm looking at the following:
Silverstone GD06 case
Silverstone ST40NF PSU
MSI H67MA-E45 Micro ATX Motherboard
INTEL Core i3-2120 "Sandy-Bridge D2", 2x 3.2GHz
Corsair H60 Liquid CPU Cooler
Samsung 1Tb Spinpoint F3
The GPU is the tricky part, I want it to fit in the case (10.5" max), run current games as well as possible at 1080P and to be very quiet. I'd like the rig to be no louder than the current gaming consoles.
I've been looking at the following :
[/LIST]
What else should I consider?
Even tech sites are very inconsistent when evaluating noise levels :-(
Thanks
Silverstone GD06 case
Silverstone ST40NF PSU
MSI H67MA-E45 Micro ATX Motherboard
INTEL Core i3-2120 "Sandy-Bridge D2", 2x 3.2GHz
Corsair H60 Liquid CPU Cooler
Samsung 1Tb Spinpoint F3
The GPU is the tricky part, I want it to fit in the case (10.5" max), run current games as well as possible at 1080P and to be very quiet. I'd like the rig to be no louder than the current gaming consoles.
I've been looking at the following :
[/LIST]
What else should I consider?
Even tech sites are very inconsistent when evaluating noise levels :-(
Thanks
Hazaro said:
Yeah, RAM is shit cheap, and the difference in price between that and the 1866 models wasn't much. Plus I need a license for Acronis 2012, which was part of a combo deal.
I was going to go with the 900 RPM Kama 2s, but then I figured I'd let the built-in fans go full blast (which should still be slow and quiet - they're 200 mm) and use the case's fan controller for the 4 side fans. Just hope I can easily kill the LEDs on the case fans.
The PSU is only 750 W because I don't need any more. Hell, I don't even need 750 W.
CPU 125 W
GPU 250 W
Motherboard, WiFi adapter, SSDs, fans, and blu ray drive will all draw peanuts in comparison. Unless you've got multiple CPUs or GPUs you don't need lots of power. I don't ever plan on going with multiple GPUs. It's infinitely less of a hassle and a lot less money to wait and get the next generation. I've got plenty of headroom for the current hardware, and down the line the CPU and GPU upgrade options will use the same or less power. The 7970 is slated to be 190W while the 6970 is listed at 250W, for example.
And if for some reason I wanted to add 7 mechanical drives and whatever the fuck else, my current PSU is 900 W or something, and I could swap it with the one I'm buying now. (And I only bought the current one at 900 W because my previous one died on me, and I had to run to Worst Buy to get a replacement that day.)
I just hope I'll be able to order my motherboard and CPU on or before Wednesday, so I can build on Friday or Saturday. I'll be getting whatever the top of the line Bulldozer part is - 8150, maybe 8170, or 8150 with the self-contained water cooling block, or whatever. Also hope that whatever mobo I get comes BD ready out of the box, since I don't have an existing AM3 chip to flash BIOS with.
Ah. Yeah 750W is super overkill for a single card. If it's anything like the X750 (Which it is an almost exact clone of) the fan will probably be very passive as well. I'm sure that PSU will last until 12V is ditched as a standard.Mudkips said:
Depending on the mobo you buy it might have onboard fan control management as well. Even at full my 1400(?) rpm Kama 2's are silent so I can't imagine 1900 is much worse.
Hope more info is out on 12th instead of the 19th. I haven't heard any hard confirmation on dates. At the very least AMD keeps touting the 5Ghz+ number on air/water so I hope that turns out well.
Hazaro said:
Thermaltake Purepower 500 NP.
I looked it up earlier from the picture you posted and PNY says your card needs 36A on 12v, and my PSU is only rated for 14A. But I have much less experience in these things and I don't know if the GPU manufacturers over-compensate or whatnot.
Angry Grimace
Two cannibals are eating a clown. One turns to the other and says "does something taste funny to you?"
Yup, they market gibibytes as gigabytes and get away with it. I'm not certain at all why they haven't been sued for it since it's outright false advertising.scogoth said:
Wolf Akela
Member
They've got "PCI-e" printed on the end.
If your PSU only has one of them... you're probably using a very very old PSU. I wouldn't recommend to use it for modern GPUs since it'll lack amperage even if you use an adapter for the IDE power cable.
If your PSU only has one of them... you're probably using a very very old PSU. I wouldn't recommend to use it for modern GPUs since it'll lack amperage even if you use an adapter for the IDE power cable.
Take it from someone who learned it the hard way. >_>
Angry Grimace
Two cannibals are eating a clown. One turns to the other and says "does something taste funny to you?"
Here's a story on how to not be a jackass. I decided to upgrade my system with a new GPU and some other stuff. Figuring that 500w was kind of pushing it, I figured I'd upgrade to a 750w unit just to be sure (even though in reality, it's nowhere close.). I got the PSU ready to go from newegg, and as I got ready to install the new card an the new PSU, I noticed that I had actually bought a 650w unit a few years ago since I had the same thought then. I just forgot. That's right, I bought a new one without actually pulling the side off my case (a CM690, so you can just pull it off and I don't ever use the thumbscrews so all you have to do is pull it to the side and out. to take four seconds look at the one I already had. :derp:
I did get a chance to look at the dust accumulated in there and holy hell was that intense. There was this solid curtain of dust between my TRUE (I don't think they even make these anymore...) and the attached fan that came out looking like a bizarro dust quilt. I've got to find a way to keep my cats off the vents.
I did get a chance to look at the dust accumulated in there and holy hell was that intense. There was this solid curtain of dust between my TRUE (I don't think they even make these anymore...) and the attached fan that came out looking like a bizarro dust quilt. I've got to find a way to keep my cats off the vents.
Wolf Akela said:
Hazaro said:
Yeah, only one dedicated PCI-e connector but I remembered seeing one of those molex to 6-pin PCI-e adapters in a friends computer, so I was wondering if some of the unused leads on my PSU (I'm only using one sata power connector and the 24 and 4 pin main and CPU power ATM) might be on a separate rail, but from the look of this page of the manual the only thing on the 2nd rail is the 4 pin cpu connector.
so yeah, guess I just need to get a new PSU if I'm gonna upgrade my GPU. :/
Spectacular Dr Dawg
Member
So I overclocked my 2500k to 4,5GHz@1.25v and I got 1 error 2 times on the same core in Prime95. I ran it for 2 hours yesterday with no errors. But today there was an error on test 8(within 30 mins basically) so I tried running the test again and there was an error on the same core on test 134. The error was exactly the same: FATAL ERROR : Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
I've had no crashes or BSODs yet.
What should I do now?
1) Same clockspeed, increase core voltage?
2)Same clockspeed, lower voltage?
3)Lower clockspeed, same voltage?
4)Lower clockspeed, lower voltage?
Or something else?
I Appreciate your help.
I've had no crashes or BSODs yet.
What should I do now?
1) Same clockspeed, increase core voltage?
2)Same clockspeed, lower voltage?
3)Lower clockspeed, same voltage?
4)Lower clockspeed, lower voltage?
Or something else?
I Appreciate your help.
Spectacular Dr Dawg
Member
I haven't had any crashes yet. It just fails the test. I'll try increasing the voltage slightly.Corky said:
Hazaro said:
I'm not trying to be argumentative, but wouldn't I then be running all my devices including both of the PCI-e plugs off only one rail rated for only 14 amps?
Much like Wolf Akela I have had a PSU blow up (it's actually why I bought my current one) and I really can't afford to/really don't want to lose access to my comp.
Also I'm turning in for the night and I just want to say thanks to you and wolf for the help so far.
I'll see you in the morning.
Spectacular Dr Dawg
Member
Upped the voltage 1.26, I hope that's enough!
Spectacular Dr Dawg said:
Most people considered around 1.45v the "safe" voltage on 45nm Intel chips. For 32nm 2500k I would say 1.35V is still safe but feel free to disagree with me if you have better knowledge on the matter.
Just saying that if temps aren't the problem you can go over 1.26V easy.
Spectacular Dr Dawg
Member
I've heard that yes but I'm staying on the safe side. I don't really need over 4,5GHz anyway.I'm getting a max temp of 63 now which is pretty close to the max safe temp.MrKnives said:
No errors in Prime95 so far.
Fair Trial
Member
While i was removing my 560ti from the first pci 16x slot i have accidentally broken the blue thing that must be moved to take out the gpu.
I mean this:
What can i do apart changing the mobo?
Can i still use that slot?
I mean this:
What can i do apart changing the mobo?
Can i still use that slot?
Wolf Akela
Member
GAF, do I really have to use AHCI for SSD?
I got one but I can't install Win7 on it until I get my upgrade so I was gonna plan to just place some games on it.
Also, is there a way to update the X25-M without burning a CD?
Through AS SSD, I saw that the FW version is 2CV102HD, so I assume it's 02HD. How do I enable TRIM? There's a post in the OP but I do NOT have my SSD as my OS drive. I'm treat it as a secondary drive for now. My OS drive is a basic SATA HDD WD CavBlack 640GB. I don't want to risk ruining things if I enable TRIM right now when I shouldn't.
I'm afraid to try many SSD tools because I get this feeling that they all assume that I have the SSD as my OS disk.
I'm not too pleased with the results. No TRIM/AHCI. Ignore the missing access time to the left. It was caused by having Intel SSD toolbox on while doing the test. I got 0.2xxx ms after retesting.
This should be what I'm getting. The benchmark was also done without AHCI but I assume with TRIM enabled.
I got one but I can't install Win7 on it until I get my upgrade so I was gonna plan to just place some games on it.
Also, is there a way to update the X25-M without burning a CD?
Through AS SSD, I saw that the FW version is 2CV102HD, so I assume it's 02HD. How do I enable TRIM? There's a post in the OP but I do NOT have my SSD as my OS drive. I'm treat it as a secondary drive for now. My OS drive is a basic SATA HDD WD CavBlack 640GB. I don't want to risk ruining things if I enable TRIM right now when I shouldn't.
I'm afraid to try many SSD tools because I get this feeling that they all assume that I have the SSD as my OS disk.
I'm not too pleased with the results. No TRIM/AHCI. Ignore the missing access time to the left. It was caused by having Intel SSD toolbox on while doing the test. I got 0.2xxx ms after retesting.
This should be what I'm getting. The benchmark was also done without AHCI but I assume with TRIM enabled.
Anyone?Wichu said:I just started university - I'm studying Computer Science. I'm using an original Macbook with an almost-dead battery at the moment, which isn't the best computer for the whole 3 years of a proper CompSci degree. After sorting out my budget, it turns out I have quite a lot of money left over, which I'm planning to spend on a new desktop. I figure I may as well make it decent for gaming during what little free time I'll have (I haven't got my full workload yet). This will be my first time building a PC; if I can't manage, I'm sure I'll be able to find another CompSci who can
Budget: In the UK; I'm trying to keep it to about £500, but my budget can stretch up to twice as much.
Main Use: Programming (i.e. compiling), emulation (Wii), some gaming, general work use.
Monitor Resolution: Pretty big, maybe dual-monitor, for programming?
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Xenoblade, Mario Galaxy, Minecraft (with various mods such as GLSL shaders).
When will you build?: Next few months; it's not urgent. I don't mind waiting if there's something amazing coming out soon.
Will you be overclocking?: Sure, why not?
I want to get a machine that will last me through all 3 years of my course, and hopefully even longer. From what I want to do, it seems I should focus on the processor rather than the graphics (i5?). Also, as I don't have a (half-decent) PC already, I won't be reusing any parts (other than maybe a mouse). I'd preferably like to keep it small-ish so I can lug it home during vacations more easily, though I guess dual monitors would be the opposite of that if I go down that route
AndyMoogle
Member
Principe Nero said:
For emulating those things get a i5-2500k and any old graphics card. I'm afraid you wont find anything that will last you for three years unless you buy the most bleeding edge parts, especially with new hardware close on the horizon.Wichu said:
get 4gb or 8gb of ddr3 ram around 1333, get either a gtx560ti or a gtx570 at most. (these can more than handle the games you listed and others)
I don't know the prices for things in pounds though so that should be a good starting point.
Marsipolami
Member
Do the USB network cards work properly? I only have one PCI slot and I want my sound card using that one, and I really need wireless network.
Wolf Akela
Member
Okay, I re-ran the tests after some games into it (TF2 and DMC4... the former being a pain to symlink).
It went FASTER than just being blank... on every single aspect? what is this i dont even
It went FASTER than just being blank... on every single aspect? what is this i dont even
KrawlMan said:
Bumping, and slightly tweaking unanswered question...
So the 560Ti can be purchased (with free Batman Arkham City) for around $200-220. The question is, would the extra 1GB vram on the 6950 2GB warrant the extra $20-30? Given I'm using a 1680x1050 monitor, I'm just trying to figure out if there's any reason at all that the 6950 2GB should be chosen.
Spectacular Dr Dawg
Member
I've been running Prime95 for 5 hours now with no errors. How long should I run it? My brother says that I should run it for 24 hours.
probably the best place to ask this question:
ok my hard drive started to make clicking sounds (guessing it's at the end of it's life) I've backed up what's important onto another drive, but it's stopped clicking although windows is extremely slow in operations, such as opening windows booting up and running games, it looks very likely that the HDD is being slowed down by something while transferring files I got speeds of less than 400kb/s when usually it should be 4mb/s
so should I just the wipe the drive and install windows again or get a new one?
ok my hard drive started to make clicking sounds (guessing it's at the end of it's life) I've backed up what's important onto another drive, but it's stopped clicking although windows is extremely slow in operations, such as opening windows booting up and running games, it looks very likely that the HDD is being slowed down by something while transferring files I got speeds of less than 400kb/s when usually it should be 4mb/s
so should I just the wipe the drive and install windows again or get a new one?
AndyMoogle
Member
I would advise you to get a new one. If it has made clicking noises before and now runs slower than it should, then it's most likely dying.MRORANGE said:
systematic
Unconfirmed Member
PGamer said:
Does your fan problem have anything to do with this announcement on defective 650D fan controllers? - http://www.corsair.com/obsidian-series-650d-fan-adapter-kit.html
If that's not the issue contact their support department and they should send you free replacement fans.
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