"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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Corky said:
No one uses 720p with a GTX 570, I mean. It's hard to say if a GTX 570 would provide a sizable benefit over a cheaper card at that resolution, especially in a game that isn't even out yet.
Maybe I should rephrase that; It's hard to say if the benefit seen would be worth spending $300.
Nemesis121 said:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185&Tpk=Samsung F3
Use the code "newcustomer10" for $10 off, which should bring it to $50 even.
You can find cheaper drives, if you have less to backup.
Corky said:Ah, well that's another matter, thought you meant in general
The steam stats always blow my mind.
RumblingRosco
Member
http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-20-231-428-_-10182011_2
2x4 GB 1600 Mhz 1.5 V RAM Shell Shocker on NewEgg right now. $39.99 w/ free shipping. Just a heads up.
2x4 GB 1600 Mhz 1.5 V RAM Shell Shocker on NewEgg right now. $39.99 w/ free shipping. Just a heads up.
Tonner Cyn
Member
I already have 8 gigs of RAM but it is 1.65v. I don't really have any other machines to put that in. If I did pick this up, is it okay to mix 1.5v and 1.65 RAM?
Rabid Wolverine
Member
Just purchased a new rig.
Am wondering with my PSU the Corsair HX 850 does it install with the fan facing towards the bottom or towards the top?. Ive seen people do it both ways.
Case is a Corsair 500R.
Which is the preferred way?
Am wondering with my PSU the Corsair HX 850 does it install with the fan facing towards the bottom or towards the top?. Ive seen people do it both ways.
Case is a Corsair 500R.
Which is the preferred way?
LordCanti said:
To a certain extent I also see it as future proofing as I might put the card in a better configuration sometime next year. I was more concerned about bottlenecks with the dual core. I want to make sure the card can pick up the slack in the processor.
The TV actually accepts up to 1080i, but it downscales everything to 1024 x 768 (in a widescreen format, which is some kind of voodoo). You can see a clear difference between 720p and 1080i source material, though, and the image still looks great.
elrechazado
Banned
Bought, and ordered my buildSoka said:
2500k
MSI p67
gtx 570
8 gigs gskill
antec neo
kickass new monitor
pumped
elrechazado
Banned
Well, if you're like me and only build a new pc every 5-6 years, you get the best you can in your budget now, and then live with it, adjusting settings downward as the years go on.Gvaz said:
Ichabod
Banned
Ok PC GAF, I'm back for round 2. Went back and did some tweaking on my build and here's what I got.
Case: CoolerMaster HAF 912
CPU: Intel i5-2500K 3.30 GHz 6M Intel Smart Cache LGA1155
RAM: Corsair DDR3 8Gb (2GbX4) 1600 Mhz
Mobo: Asus Sabertooth P67 w/ TUF Thermal Armor Intel P67 Chipset DDR3 ATX Mainboard w/ UEFI, DIGI+VRM, Socket H2 (LGA 1155), 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, USB3.0, 4x SATA-III RAID, 2 Gen2 PCIe, 3 PCIe X1 & 1 PCI [B3 Stepping]
HDD: 2TB (2TBx1) SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 64MB Cache 7200RPM HDD
Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB 16X PCIe Video Card (EVGA Superclocked)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B3ST
Heatsink: Corsair Hydro Series H60 High Performance Liquid Cooling System 120MM Radiator & Fan
Sound Card:Asus Xonar DS 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Audio Card
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-850TXV2 80 Plus Power Supply
OS:Windows 7 Home Premium (64-bit Edition)
This build is gonna cost me right around $1,500. Whatcha think?
Case: CoolerMaster HAF 912
CPU: Intel i5-2500K 3.30 GHz 6M Intel Smart Cache LGA1155
RAM: Corsair DDR3 8Gb (2GbX4) 1600 Mhz
Mobo: Asus Sabertooth P67 w/ TUF Thermal Armor Intel P67 Chipset DDR3 ATX Mainboard w/ UEFI, DIGI+VRM, Socket H2 (LGA 1155), 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, USB3.0, 4x SATA-III RAID, 2 Gen2 PCIe, 3 PCIe X1 & 1 PCI [B3 Stepping]
HDD: 2TB (2TBx1) SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 64MB Cache 7200RPM HDD
Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB 16X PCIe Video Card (EVGA Superclocked)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B3ST
Heatsink: Corsair Hydro Series H60 High Performance Liquid Cooling System 120MM Radiator & Fan
Sound Card:Asus Xonar DS 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Audio Card
PSU: Corsair CMPSU-850TXV2 80 Plus Power Supply
OS:Windows 7 Home Premium (64-bit Edition)
This build is gonna cost me right around $1,500. Whatcha think?
I'd get a Z68 board, 3GB 580, H100 or an air cooler, DG vs DS.
http://techreport.com/articles.x/19997/11
http://techreport.com/articles.x/19997/11
ConradCervantes
Banned
Damn, even after reading the OP and clicking through most of the links provided, it's all still pretty overwhelming. My desire for a new gaming PC has been growing over some time now, but after purchasing the Grand Theft Auto Collection off Gamersgate for $12.49, it really kicked into overdrive for me, especially after seeing what the modding community has been doing with Grand Theft Auto IV. Plus I'm just tired of the limitations that a laptop provides.
Grinchy
Banned
I didn't want to make a new thread for this and I didn't know where else to ask. Is there any point in using the catalyst software if you have an ATI card? Am I missing out by only using the display driver?
The catalyst software fucks my computer up every time I try to use it. Sometimes I get lucky and get one to stick, but once I try to update it my computer is incapacitated once again. I can always install just the display driver. I installed the 11.9 display driver and everything is peachy, but that was after 5 hours of trying to get the full CCC installed and then saying fuck it.
The catalyst software fucks my computer up every time I try to use it. Sometimes I get lucky and get one to stick, but once I try to update it my computer is incapacitated once again. I can always install just the display driver. I installed the 11.9 display driver and everything is peachy, but that was after 5 hours of trying to get the full CCC installed and then saying fuck it.
what's the best RAM to use with these? also, is that the best "bang for your buck" board to get if i intend to OC the CPU?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXHQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QF0VD6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXHQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QF0VD6/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Zomba13
Member
So, I've got a GTX285 and been thinking of getting a new card so I can play the latest stuff on max (or very high settings) and at higher settings when in 3D. What'd be the best value upgrade?
I've got a i7 920 overclocked to 3.5GHz and 6GB of RAM so I don't think any of that stuff needs to be upgraded and I play at 1680x1050 (or lower in a window for some games) and sometimes use 3D (nvidia 3D vision).
This is my mother board:
Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD3R Intel X58 (Socket 1366) PCI-Express DDR3 Motherboard
and my power supply:
OCZ ModXStream Pro 600w Silent SLI Certified Modular Power Supply
if it matters at all.
Also I'm in the UK so if you want to recommend sites to order from I'd prefer them be in the UK.
I've got a i7 920 overclocked to 3.5GHz and 6GB of RAM so I don't think any of that stuff needs to be upgraded and I play at 1680x1050 (or lower in a window for some games) and sometimes use 3D (nvidia 3D vision).
This is my mother board:
Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD3R Intel X58 (Socket 1366) PCI-Express DDR3 Motherboard
and my power supply:
OCZ ModXStream Pro 600w Silent SLI Certified Modular Power Supply
if it matters at all.
Also I'm in the UK so if you want to recommend sites to order from I'd prefer them be in the UK.
Did you guys see this, still a rumor though but I'm gonna post it anyway;
Ivy Bridge i7-3700K to have 77W TDP
Imagine the temps on that thing, most high end coolers are designed to dissipate 120W heat...
Ivy Bridge i7-3700K to have 77W TDP
Imagine the temps on that thing, most high end coolers are designed to dissipate 120W heat...
I am thinking for buying a 2nd GTX 570 will my 750W PSU handle two 570s or should I get an 1000w/1200w PSU? (case is HAF X i5, P67ext4 and a DVD Burner also 4HDDs and 5 fans if that matter)
If I need more Watts is the Cooler Master Silent Pro 1200W any good? ( it's the only one available in my town but I heard CM's PSUs are shitty)
If I need more Watts is the Cooler Master Silent Pro 1200W any good? ( it's the only one available in my town but I heard CM's PSUs are shitty)
Totobeni said:
750W is fine. Guru3D's overclocked test system maxed out at 578W during load. The primary reason people recommend PSUs 100W+ higher than this is because they're taking into account generic PSUs which tend to hit a wall far less than that of their rated supply.
i have a weird defect on my asus vw246h, and i can't seem to figure out what the actual cause would be. it's at the bottom left of my monitor, and goes about halfway across, and it's sort of like a line of brighter pixels half an inch tall, but when you're looking at it from an angle, it's almost as if it's... behind the screen, if that makes any sense. would this be something covered by my 3 year warranty?
Goddamit, my speakers blew yesterday, and found out it was my Xi-Fi gamer that did it, as that has decided to die too.
Resorted back to onboard sound (Realtek Azalia audio chip) and headphones. But I need new picks.
Firstly:
1. With modern day audio chips, is it worth forking out £50-£100 for good sound quality graphics card (I don't do any music editing, I just want a good sound output)
2. What are the best 2.0/2.1 speakers around for £200. I liked my Creative Gigaworks T40, but I want a step up.
Resorted back to onboard sound (Realtek Azalia audio chip) and headphones. But I need new picks.
Firstly:
1. With modern day audio chips, is it worth forking out £50-£100 for good sound quality graphics card (I don't do any music editing, I just want a good sound output)
2. What are the best 2.0/2.1 speakers around for £200. I liked my Creative Gigaworks T40, but I want a step up.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
So my UPS issues are likely just the battery, but 390W isn't a going to be a problem for a OC'd 2500k+ stock 5850 (or similarly power-thirsty GPU in the future) is it? Hopefully I don't have to replace it, those things aren't cheap.
And if I step down to a standard surge protector instead of a UPS, what exactly are you looking for to determine a good one? I know warranty is important, but I have no idea what sort of joules protection I'd want or if anything else matters.
And if I step down to a standard surge protector instead of a UPS, what exactly are you looking for to determine a good one? I know warranty is important, but I have no idea what sort of joules protection I'd want or if anything else matters.
chaosblade said:
UPSs generally aren't a good idea with gaming PCs unless you want to spend lots of money. You have to remember that if your computer is drawing 400W then its drawing 500W at the wall if it operates at 80% efficiency. For surge protectors stick with some brand name not a generic and you should be fine. I think APC will cover any damage to equipment caused by a malfunctioning surge protector.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I'll probably just go with a surge protector if I do need to replace it (or the battery), at this point I've just lost power to the battery-driven stuff a couple times. No reason for it to be overdrawing if it was fine for a few years prior, so I'm assuming it's the battery.scogoth said:
So now I'm just hoping my power draw isn't going to be too high once I get my stuff together. Not too confident, looking at surge protectors now.
And I think my fans got lost.
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