Hey guys could you pls check my temps, I think they are too high for a Thermalright Macho Cooler...
CPU is @4.2GHZ @ 1.208
http://i.imgur.com/eE8xD.jpg
CPU is @4.2GHZ @ 1.208
http://i.imgur.com/eE8xD.jpg
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
ChoklitReign
Member
Regarding my earlier post on an external hard drive, would games rune fine with USB 2.0?
drakesfortune
Directions: Pull String For Uninformed Rant
drakesfortune said:
Anyone know if it's possible? I can post my mother board later on when I get home if that helps. Is there a way to get the NVIDIA drivers to look to the second pci slot for the video card? Ideally I'd like to fix this that way, rather than mess with an RMA and all of that nonsense.
mkenyon said:
Damn, sorry. I'm stress testing with Prime95 Maximum Heat. Temps are around 56 to 60 for the cores and 62 to 65 for the cores. In games it's below 60 for the package most of the time. OC is to 4.2GHZ from 3.3, voltage is actually lower I think with 1.225. Cooler is, as said, a Thermalright Macho.
ChoklitReign
Member
I meant would performance be fine if I store them on a 7200 RPM EHDD?mkenyon said:
Since we are talking about components, does anyone feel that any parts are out of line / better substitutions that should be brought to my attention as well?
Additionally revision of the comment lines, spacing, added details, removal of details, etc.
Right now I'm mainly considering changing the CX430w PSU up to something else (Due to DOA rates), but I'm having a hard time picking a PSU aside from the EA380w (that lacks a power cable). I really dislike that since I want the barrier to entry to be very low and less text explaining things the better. *Reviewing all the other options... The CX430v2 is still by far the best PSU when it isn't DoA. Eh, I guess you get what you pay for. Shame there is no well made unit in the $50 price range.
PMs are the best way for me to notice things on improving the thread so I don't care if you post and PM me.
With all of that said I feel this should also be on a blog or its own webpage and we could get a few people to work together on it instead of being limited to a forum / image post using a google doc. I'm currently trying to be more employed so that is at a backseat right now.
The CM212+ is recommended because it is easily found, $25-$30 shipped, and better than stock. For most people I think it is a great cooler and will cool a regular OC fine.
Really it is about cutting costs down $10 per component because it totals to another $60 saved overall. A lot of the build focus is on 'best approximate value', but the problem is you can add $15 to PSU, $20 to case, $10 on HS, $10 on RAM, etc. etc. Does that sound fair?
So I feel that the 212+ should stay, but I'm open to adding another <$40 cooler to the 1k build and two <$50 EASILY AVAILABLE heatsinks to the above 1k build. If you had to pick two or three HS's to meet that what would put in? Also considering RAM clearance if possible.
Close positions of cards for xFire/SLi
no PCI slot
I feel that the guide is mostly focused on people not 100% positive on everything and the less disclaimers I have to make, the better. It does look a great board, but those two things will turn it off from being a default (Or first listed) board because it has an incompatibility. I will however, add the board to the list. Problem is I can just keep adding line and lines and comments detailing every specific and I try to avoid that as much as I can. At least in this format it is hard to do.
Additionally revision of the comment lines, spacing, added details, removal of details, etc.
Right now I'm mainly considering changing the CX430w PSU up to something else (Due to DOA rates), but I'm having a hard time picking a PSU aside from the EA380w (that lacks a power cable). I really dislike that since I want the barrier to entry to be very low and less text explaining things the better. *Reviewing all the other options... The CX430v2 is still by far the best PSU when it isn't DoA. Eh, I guess you get what you pay for. Shame there is no well made unit in the $50 price range.
PMs are the best way for me to notice things on improving the thread so I don't care if you post and PM me.
With all of that said I feel this should also be on a blog or its own webpage and we could get a few people to work together on it instead of being limited to a forum / image post using a google doc. I'm currently trying to be more employed so that is at a backseat right now.
That's funny that [H] found that website before a response got out. As you said the problem is the shipping is $10+ and that kills it.·feist· said:
The CM212+ is recommended because it is easily found, $25-$30 shipped, and better than stock. For most people I think it is a great cooler and will cool a regular OC fine.
Really it is about cutting costs down $10 per component because it totals to another $60 saved overall. A lot of the build focus is on 'best approximate value', but the problem is you can add $15 to PSU, $20 to case, $10 on HS, $10 on RAM, etc. etc. Does that sound fair?
So I feel that the 212+ should stay, but I'm open to adding another <$40 cooler to the 1k build and two <$50 EASILY AVAILABLE heatsinks to the above 1k build. If you had to pick two or three HS's to meet that what would put in? Also considering RAM clearance if possible.
My problems with this are:mkenyon said:
Close positions of cards for xFire/SLi
no PCI slot
I feel that the guide is mostly focused on people not 100% positive on everything and the less disclaimers I have to make, the better. It does look a great board, but those two things will turn it off from being a default (Or first listed) board because it has an incompatibility. I will however, add the board to the list. Problem is I can just keep adding line and lines and comments detailing every specific and I try to avoid that as much as I can. At least in this format it is hard to do.
And your case/cooling/fan layout? What temps under Prime95 Blend? Ambient/Room temp?Thrakier said:
GhostWriter24
Member
Picking up a new video card tomorrow, woot!
TheExecutive
Member
Once again thanks. What is the #1 case you would suggest for around 130 to 150 that would meet my needs? Sorry for the questions but it sounds like there's a lot that goes into these decisions and no websites I know of to look at for the answers.·feist· said:It has inefficient usage of space, limited cable management capability (even in V3 guise), limited air- and water-cooling flexibility, lacks a dedicated PSU air intake even though it's a bottom mount, and other things. There are plenty of similarly priced, more modern cases that would be better suited to your needs. Besides what's in the OP, I could run off a long list of other options.
After months of prodding and whatnot, I'd still have to say, space/component permitting, it's Thermalright HR-02 Macho > Thermalright True Spirit 140 > Thermalright True Spirit 120, with these making up the rest of the budget cooling hierarchy. Somehow the Hyper 212+ became the de facto recommendation from a lot of people, even though it never was the priceerformance budget champ. Constant discounts do help it, though.
I don't know where HardOCP is coming from, but the True Spirit 120 is noisier than the True Spirit 140.
Do you not have any competent friends/family that can assist you? They don't even have to be tech types, just buy them a beer, or something. You could pick up a static strap and/or gloves if you're concerned.
Don't know how soon you need a PSU, but does it have to be local? The $100 SeaSonic X650 deal that vermadas posted would be my pick.
TheExecutive
Member
I am also looking for a psu that will handle a 2500 overclocked along with sli'ing a couple of 570's.
Also I will reask everyone: know of any
Deals for 570's for black friday?
Also I will reask everyone: know of any
Deals for 570's for black friday?
White Corsair 600T would be my pick. Mine would get banged up a lot so I'd probably get the black one...
X750 from Seasonic.
*This NZXT PSU... is good. And it would match color scheme... Hmm.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817116011
X750 from Seasonic.
*This NZXT PSU... is good. And it would match color scheme... Hmm.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817116011
vaelic said:
Hazaro said:
TheExecutive
Member
Sheesh. I have another question. Maybe I am in over my head? Is the Asus 570 worth the extra price for that for the dual fan?
If you are going SLI absolutely. You need to get as much heat out as fast as possible. Need good case and fans too.
Stock fans do ok, but are usually louder and the higher the OC the worse they do. In most cases it is $20 for a better heatsink and I think that is a fair price.
Also I wouldn't go SLi 570 now since there is a process jump soon-ish (at least for AMT/ATi). I'd just get 1.
Stock fans do ok, but are usually louder and the higher the OC the worse they do. In most cases it is $20 for a better heatsink and I think that is a fair price.
Also I wouldn't go SLi 570 now since there is a process jump soon-ish (at least for AMT/ATi). I'd just get 1.
TheExecutive
Member
I don't plan on SLI the 570s right away. I was planning on doing it next year but that may be even less of an option. So you suggest the 600t?Hazaro said:
600t is an amazing case. Only iffy part is that the molex power connector for the fan controller has a seemingly high failure rate. Still rocking my AMD system in one. I will also state that since I had a fan controller go bad, corsair sent me another brand new case, free of charge. Pretty outstanding customer service there.TheExecutive said:
I'd love to help in any way.Hazaro said:
Also, I'll look over the OP and rack my brain to see if I can find any other improvements, as soon as I stop playing tribes for more than 20 mins.
IMACOMPUTA
Member
Wow. I'm having some serious problems!
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Sound issues. Weird ones.
This started recently and i have no idea why.
My computer makes all kinds of weird whining noises through the speakers. It was only when running a game (it gets really loud) but i've noticed now that when i use the scroll bar on firefox it makes noise through the speakers as well.
I've tried using my hdmi audio out and my analog 1/8" out... same thing
It does not happen when i use headphones though.. Why might this be? It's driving me nuts!
I have everything plugged in to the same powerstrip.
EDIT - I just realized that even with the sound device disabled, but still plugged into the speakers (no sound coming from my pc) -- the speakers still make whining buzzy noises when i launch a game.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Sound issues. Weird ones.
This started recently and i have no idea why.
My computer makes all kinds of weird whining noises through the speakers. It was only when running a game (it gets really loud) but i've noticed now that when i use the scroll bar on firefox it makes noise through the speakers as well.
I've tried using my hdmi audio out and my analog 1/8" out... same thing
It does not happen when i use headphones though.. Why might this be? It's driving me nuts!
I have everything plugged in to the same powerstrip.
EDIT - I just realized that even with the sound device disabled, but still plugged into the speakers (no sound coming from my pc) -- the speakers still make whining buzzy noises when i launch a game.
Can Hazaro or you post a SSD buying guide to the OP?mkenyon said:
Every time I read the OP, I feel like it needs one.
Here's a proposal:
http://www.hardware-revolution.com/best-ssd-hdd-november-2011/
IMACOMPUTA
Member
I seriously will paypal $5 to whoever can solve my pc audio issue.
IMACOMPUTA
Member
No, and it's only VERY noticeable when playing a game. Normal windows usage doesn't make much of a sound unless i turn the speakers up very loud.claviertekky said:
slidewinder
Banned
Your speakers are not, or are improperly, shielded.
I remember for a while people on computer threads were complaining about buzzing and weird noises from their computers.IMACOMPUTA said:
Sometimes it's hardware related and sometimes it's the drivers.
What are you using for sound? Integrated? If so, what's the motherboard?
slidewinder said:
I was thinking it could be a grounding problem, too, which is why I told him to use the speakers on another device.
IMACOMPUTA
Member
I've tried my integrated sound (ASUS P7P55d-LE motherboard)
and my hdmi out from my video card (amd 6950).
If i plug the 1/8" cable into the headphone out on my laptop i get crystal clear audio with no noise AT ALL.
but with my desktop its a different story. I'm using a little 4 channel behringer mixer with 1/4" cables out to powered studio monitors.
With the mixer at a high volume i can hear noise when i move my mouse or do anything on the computer, but after a while it'll stop until i play a sound from the computer (game, etc.)
Again, i don't have this problem with any other devices aside from my desktop pc.
EDIT:
I have another desktop pc right next to my main one, so i tried that and it has the same problem. I guess this is probably an electric issue (ground loop or something).
Thanks for the help guys.
and my hdmi out from my video card (amd 6950).
If i plug the 1/8" cable into the headphone out on my laptop i get crystal clear audio with no noise AT ALL.
but with my desktop its a different story. I'm using a little 4 channel behringer mixer with 1/4" cables out to powered studio monitors.
With the mixer at a high volume i can hear noise when i move my mouse or do anything on the computer, but after a while it'll stop until i play a sound from the computer (game, etc.)
Again, i don't have this problem with any other devices aside from my desktop pc.
EDIT:
I have another desktop pc right next to my main one, so i tried that and it has the same problem. I guess this is probably an electric issue (ground loop or something).
Thanks for the help guys.
The SSD buying guide distills to buying an Intel 320 or M4, so until other competitors stop cloning Sandforce, or it proves to be more reliable I don't plan on it. I'm conservative on this front and my opinion on SSD is: You get a solid SSD and SSD>HDD. If you are an enthusiast for this then you'll know to pick up some higher end Sandforce drive on 34nm NAND from ________ company that is using a SF controller + their own firmware magic to get 550MB/s Read/Write.claviertekky said:
Problem is they have never made an SSD, or had a branded HDD, and I'm not recommending SSD's based on specs since to me, telling someone to buy a proven SSD is more important.
I'm glad to see that that website has expanded more. It has had some good part lists, but everything is super broken up and divided into so many sections explaining everything, which is the opposite of what I want here.
Most likely I would just recommend a Corsair Force/GT or something with a good warranty/customer support based off of SF. I've been sort of slacking on the SSD front as I feel the 320 and M4 are good 'cover all' SSDs.
If you have any recommendations and why I am all ears, especially updated news/views on reliability and different brands.
Hazaro said:
Under Blend it's between 58 to 60 for the package and 53 to 59 for the cores. Case is an Antec 300, cooling layout is front in and back out with two fan cases. There is a 140mm fan layout above the proc which I'm not using. I tried to close it so nothing comes in but the temps sky rocketed after that, 10 celsius +.
Blend temps go up to 65 as well...
EDIT2:
Now it stays around 60 for Package and around 55 for three cores with max heat...I don't know. Weird. Went up to 65 and now it's back to 60...the fuck.
Replacement RAM has arrived, and I'm getting no more crashes (so far). I've played Sonic Generations for over an hour, and nothing happened. Normally it'd crash within 25 minutes, so I'm pretty pleased. I'll keep playing other games and see how the machine copes, but I think (I hope) my crashing problem is solved. 
Thanks for the help over the last month, everyone.
Thanks for the help over the last month, everyone.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Antec 300 does not have good airflow. You probably want to use that 140mm fan since it would help a little, why isn't it in there?Thrakier said:Under Blend it's between 58 to 60 for the package and 53 to 59 for the cores. Case is an Antec 300, cooling layout is front in and back out with two fan cases. There is a 140mm fan layout above the proc which I'm not using. I tried to close it so nothing comes in but the temps sky rocketed after that, 10 celsius +.
Blend temps go up to 65 as well...
EDIT2:
Now it stays around 60 for Package and around 55 for three cores with max heat...I don't know. Weird. Went up to 65 and now it's back to 60...the fuck.
Mid 60s for 4.2GHz doesn't surprise me with that case. Especially without extra fans. Under 70C is fine though.
chaosblade said:
I already have two fans, one in the front and one in the back. The one on top is just too fucking loud. I want a silent system. I installed it anyway to test it and on low settings with the other coolers on max it barely makes a difference. Coolest core is 51, hottest 57, Package 59 to 60.
my local frys carrys this paste. is it decent enough for i2500k?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006I51G/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Antec Silver Thermal
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006I51G/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Antec Silver Thermal
Hey guys! Really quick question that I was hoping someone could answer for me.
I have an MSI 870A-G54 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard and I was hoping to go from 4GB to 8GB Ram. Which 8GB would be the smoothest transition/best choice?
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
Or
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Thanks for any help in the matter!
I have an MSI 870A-G54 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard and I was hoping to go from 4GB to 8GB Ram. Which 8GB would be the smoothest transition/best choice?
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
Or
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
Thanks for any help in the matter!
Temp sensors on 2500K aren't the best, your chip could just have bad contact with the IHS, or the temp probe could be off. If you are that concerned with temps, reseat the heatsink outside of the case.Thrakier said:
Yupvaelic said:
RAM is RAM. Corsair since it is cheaper.lordy88 said:
I apply an even line (can be tricky at first) at one whole side of the processor, then use a plastic card (make sure it's clean) to put it over the rest over the processor. AS5 is easy to use tho, so it shouldn't be much of a problem. You can also apply just a very small dab at first and practice if you want, should be at least 3-4 uses in there
If you really want a silent system, you either need to change cases or upgrade your fans and get a decent fan controller. One 120mm intake and one 120mm exhaust really is not even close to enough for modern systems.Thrakier said:
Could look at this 140mm, and two of these 120mm. Stock case fans are generally pretty bad.
Most folks suggest a small pea size in the middle, and let the pressure of the heatsink itself spread it out.vaelic said:
Open cases aren't necessarily an indication of whether or not airflow is sufficient. With my side panels off, my GPU's hit in the 80s for high temps, CPU in the mid 60s. With side panel on, my GPU's are in the low 70s and CPU is in the upper 50s. Getting the right air pressure to make sure all that air is getting out of there is pretty important.
You might be lacking sufficient intake with only a single 120mm.
However, just try reinstalling the heatsink. I've had my fair share of times where I've had to do as much to make sure it's properly seated with the right amount of paste.
You might be lacking sufficient intake with only a single 120mm.
However, just try reinstalling the heatsink. I've had my fair share of times where I've had to do as much to make sure it's properly seated with the right amount of paste.
That's the problem, I can't do that...I went to a shop and paid them so that they installed the heatsink... 
And they will claim that my temperatures are normal and that it isn't their fault.
If I put all coolers to max the temperature barely goes down, so I don#t think that another 120mm would make a big difference...
And they will claim that my temperatures are normal and that it isn't their fault.If I put all coolers to max the temperature barely goes down, so I don#t think that another 120mm would make a big difference...
Teetris said:
Because the sockets aren't the marketing name. i3/i5/i7 generation 2 is the marketing name. The socket specification is Land Grid Array with 1155 contact points compared to 1156 contact points. Intel needed 1155 contact points for their engineering design and intel doesn't care about consumers understanding their specifications.
IMACOMPUTA said:
I tend to have a lot of poor experiences with Asus motherboards in Antec cases. I think it's more the cases fault from improperly shielded front panel cables but even coming out the back of the motherboard there is enough EMI to screw with my sound at home. I'm currently using a sound card I had laying around to get rid of most of the problem. But even still I do catch some glips. The greater you're straining your system the worse the noise will be. :S
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