You will be fine on power for any single gpu build. I don't know about dual
Edit: thanks RGM! Now time to look out for deals on Dell ultra sharps...
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
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You will be fine on power for any single gpu build. I don't know about dual
Edit: thanks RGM! Now time to look out for deals on Dell ultra sharps...
That 700 watt PSU is more than enough for any single card. You could even run
Shadowhaxor
Member
Yeah, I know. But I don't use fraps, too much overlay. I use Rivatuner
My main deal is introduced a 21:9 34 inch monitor into the mix and I'll be adding another GTX 970 as well for Star Citizen, so I wanted to make sure I can handle it. But agreed my 3570k as has been kicking ass still, just have to knock down the settings from time to time.... most recently being Dragon Age:I.Yeah, I know. But I don't use fraps, too much overlay. I use Rivatuner
How are you liking the monitor? I Also just got one and am torn between using that or two widescreen. I feel it's too wide to run a single game, no?
michaelius
Banned
Your PSU can run any existing single GPU card.
Good cards for the moment are radeon 290 or gtx 970.
twerkitout
Member
Probably 300-350, hoping it will last longer than the 4850...can't play the newest games anymore
Shadowhaxor
Member
Coming from 2x 27 inch monitors, I'd thought I'd hate it but it's not bad. Most games such the native resolution and those that don't you just have two black bars which isn't that bad off. Sadly those games that don't support the resolution end up being stretched.
Productivity-wise, it's a lot better. No bezels in my way and using the Windows key + arrows, I can especially move windows to either side and it makes a world of difference. I have zero plans of going back to 2x monitors and I've been using this monitors for 2 weeks now.
Then the GTX 970 is right up your alley. Interested in low noise or strong overclocking ability or anything like that? Here's some reviews.
Asus Strix GTX 970.
Gigabyte G1 GTX 970.
Yes, but it's not very active. Last post was before Halloween.
I just built one and it's gonna serve as my living room gaming PC. I just didn't know if there were any apps or settings or anything that made running windows 8.1 in your living room a tad more pleasant.
Volume² gives you onscreen OSD for things like volume and other notifications.
Media Preview fixes media file thumbnails to look better and allow previews.
There's Kodi/XBMC and MythTV for slicker interfaces for your media library.
Oh baby. Major update for AMD drivers.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...e-catalyst-omega.html&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en
Significant performance increase across many games (looks to be for games where AMD was typically worse than Nvidia).
Virtual Super Resolution - Downscaling from up to 4K.
Improvements to frame pacing for crossfire.
FreeSync support.
"TressFX Hair 3.0, OpenCL 2.0 and Mantle game capture, streaming and FPS measurement through the Gaming Evolved client"
Looks like this was leaked early by techspot as they quickly deleted it and no one else is reporting on it.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...e-catalyst-omega.html&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en
Significant performance increase across many games (looks to be for games where AMD was typically worse than Nvidia).
Virtual Super Resolution - Downscaling from up to 4K.
Improvements to frame pacing for crossfire.
FreeSync support.
"TressFX Hair 3.0, OpenCL 2.0 and Mantle game capture, streaming and FPS measurement through the Gaming Evolved client"
Looks like this was leaked early by techspot as they quickly deleted it and no one else is reporting on it.
Kinda late reply (from me, sorry). I guess I'm still having difficulties because I can't find F12, F13, or F14. All it shows about BIOS is that it's an "exclusive UEFI DualBIOS design". And for CPU Support it shows "4th generation Intel Core processors" don't know if they mean the new ones.
Rumor I saw is the official announcement (and driver release, I would assume) is Monday. Pretty hype for this, good to see AMD match an nVidia feature so quickly.
Hironobu Sakaguchi
Member
why i'm not able to find a displayport cables for sale? all are convertors !
Videocardz says December 9th. Not sure where they got that from, though.
My nephews and niece want a PC for Xmas that "won't lag in Minecraft". I'm thinking about donating some parts, but will the budget build run Minecraft + mods OK? I'm assuming it can, but I haven't played MC in ages so I don't know if requirements creep happened. We were going to go with that build but with my 560Ti to save cost. Given I can still run DA:I and other new games well, I'm assuming it should handle Minecraft no problem.
opticalmace
Member
gtx 970
Shadowhaxor
Member
With $3000, you can get anything
We know you meant $300, but for 50 more you can get a GTX 970 and that will do it. Otherwise there's a firesale of GTX 780's and GTX 770's you can get for cheap as well.Get the GTX 970 though.
Not ideal since clocks start dropping more and more after hitting 68-70c.
But if the cooler and air flow is poor thats about right.
MSI Gamer 970 hits about 65-70c stock fan profile and totally silent. Havent hit more than 75c at 1500/4000Mhz either with stock fan profile.
80c is safe though.
Are the temp readings from MSI Afterburner accurate? I was using it to see the CPU & GPU temp while playing Titanfall, and they seemed way too good to be real
47C on the GPU and about 42-47 C on 4 CPU1,2,3,4
Just 2 weeks ago I was worrying because I was getting higher than normal temp for my CPU, so this is weird...
I was planning on buying a fan but was too busy to actually install it if I got so if this temps are real, I could probably wait it out until I also get a new case
On another note, still no idea what is causing my memory cache to be this big
Windows is noticeably laggy and I'm pretty sure that is the reason
47C on the GPU and about 42-47 C on 4 CPU1,2,3,4
Just 2 weeks ago I was worrying because I was getting higher than normal temp for my CPU, so this is weird...
I was planning on buying a fan but was too busy to actually install it if I got so if this temps are real, I could probably wait it out until I also get a new case
On another note, still no idea what is causing my memory cache to be this big
Windows is noticeably laggy and I'm pretty sure that is the reasonAre the temp readings from MSI Afterburner accurate? I was using it to see the CPU & GPU temp while playing Titanfall, and they seemed way too good to be real
47C on the GPU and about 42-47 C on 4 CPU1,2,3,4
Just 2 weeks ago I was worrying because I was getting higher than normal temp for my CPU, so this is weird...
I was planning on buying a fan but was too busy to actually install it if I got so if this temps are real, I could probably wait it out until I also get a new case
On another note, still no idea what is causing my memory cache to be this big
MSI AB is usually accurate. Confirm with Realtemp or HWMonitor.
My 8GB system im typing from with 4 chrome tabs open and steam open has 5600MB RAM cached. 57MB free. Its totally normal and performing perfectly. I doubt this is your issue.
Try run a DPC Latency checker. http://www.resplendence.com/latencymon
Yes, will need to run at the slowest timings (highest values) for it to be officially stable. Usually the board will do that itself, but best to check. Can use CPUz to check RAM timings if it boots up. Then adjust in BIOS if necessary.
Ah ok, thanks!
BurningNad
Member
Hey guys, I'll get straight to it. I'd like to keep my upgrades under $300, max $400 if necessary.
Current PC (using AIDA64 to get this info, as I built it about 3 or 4 years ago, replaced a few parts, don't remember it all offhand):
I would like to be able to play newer games coming out on high settings, if not maxed out, specifically, Evolve. I had a large amount of stuttering on anything but Low settings for it during the Big Alpha.
I would also like to be able to smoothly stream on Twitch or Hitbox. My internet connection can definitely handle it, so it's just down to my hardware.
Now, would an SSD drive and more RAM suffice? Should I look at a new processor? I got the video card a year ago or so, so that should be okay, right?
Any help or guidance would be extremely appreciated! Thanks!
Current PC (using AIDA64 to get this info, as I built it about 3 or 4 years ago, replaced a few parts, don't remember it all offhand):
- Processor: QuadCore Intel Core i5-750, 3466 MHz (24 x 144)
- Mobo: Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD2 (2 PCI, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)
- Video card: AMD Radeon HD 7870
- RAM: (Two sticks, 4 GB total) G Skill F3-10666CL8-2GBRM 2 GB DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM
I would like to be able to play newer games coming out on high settings, if not maxed out, specifically, Evolve. I had a large amount of stuttering on anything but Low settings for it during the Big Alpha.
I would also like to be able to smoothly stream on Twitch or Hitbox. My internet connection can definitely handle it, so it's just down to my hardware.
Now, would an SSD drive and more RAM suffice? Should I look at a new processor? I got the video card a year ago or so, so that should be okay, right?
Any help or guidance would be extremely appreciated! Thanks!
If I run a game then alt tab and run RealTemp or something, is the system still under load? I know the game is running in the background, but still..
About the memory thing - I actually had a very real memory leak problem because of a driver, it would fill up my non-paged poll and actual in-use memory until it was full then I had to restart my PC
I never noticed if the cached memory was as big as it is now before I fixed it
I'm just have firefox with a bunch of tabs open right now (steam, origin and drivers in the background as well) and its sitting at 11.6GB, it was 12.2GB earlier
The weird thing is the PC lag only started a couple of days after I fixed the memory leak issue, and I didn't install anything other than games or change anything during that time... maybe there's no lag and I'm just crazy lol
I'll try out DPS Latency Checker, thanks
With $3000, you can get anything
Get the GTX 970 though.
lol didn't realize I added that extra 0, 50 dollars more that's pretty much my monthly game budget. I can do that. thanks
Naked Snake
Member
My CPU is overheating.
My PC wasn't originally built for gaming, the mobo is a budget microATX Intel one and an i5-2500 with stock cooler.
Now I got a GTX 970, new PSU and case. And suddenly I'm getting popup warnings from Intel Desktop Utilities that my CPU is reaching 88c+ in games.
I guess I need to buy an aftermarket cooler? But until I do that I figured I should rearrange things to try to improve air flow in the case, and maybe clean dust from the CPU heatsinks. But do I need to reapply thermal paste if I remove the fan? Cause I don't have any right now.
My PC wasn't originally built for gaming, the mobo is a budget microATX Intel one and an i5-2500 with stock cooler.
Now I got a GTX 970, new PSU and case. And suddenly I'm getting popup warnings from Intel Desktop Utilities that my CPU is reaching 88c+ in games.
I guess I need to buy an aftermarket cooler? But until I do that I figured I should rearrange things to try to improve air flow in the case, and maybe clean dust from the CPU heatsinks. But do I need to reapply thermal paste if I remove the fan? Cause I don't have any right now.
ThoseDeafMutes
Member
Fuuuuck. MB was what failed on my last PC. How would one test for mb failure? Just rule out everything else?
What do you mean "check sata mode"?
i5 4670 stock
Gigabyte H87 mini itx mobo
2x8gb ddr3 1600 ram
512gb ssd + 3tb hdd
GTX 970
650w PSU
In uefi cpu is 40c or so.
You could clean the CPU with alcohol and reapply thermal paste, that's what I would do to make sure the CPU will be as efficiently cooled as possible.
You have plenty of very good CPU heatsinks at a low price (30-40$).
Give the PC a good clean without taking the CPU fan off, you will need new paste if you remove it. Make sure the fans are actually spinning.
Also clean up the wiring.
Another thing to try, while the PC is running, open the temperature monitoring program, then put pressure on the top of the Intel CPU heatsink, see if temps drop, that indicates an insecure mount.
If you had a reference design GPU, and now non reference design GPU, then its possible you just need an extra exhaust fan to remove the hot air being dissipated into the case from the open GPU cooler. Removing the side panel is a good test to see if that is the problem, you should see a temp drop quite quickly if it is.
Run Realtemp or HWMonitor in the background, both record maximum temperatures.
Stealth_Cobra
Member
Typing this on my new PC. Ostrog GT red case, awesome looking... I7 4790k, 8gb 2400 Ram, GT 970 , MSI z97 Military Class mobo, 3 TB HD and 120 GB SSD, Cooler Master Evo monster of a heatsink, Corsair 600 power supply...
The last PC I built before that one was about 10 years ago, so it was really fun to get back into the "Game", so to speak. It's also the first PC I build as an adult, using my own funding, meaning... OVERBOARD without any restrictions from Parents and reasonable , sane persons. Yes, i'm really paying THAT much for that component... No, I don't want a budget alternative...
Black Friday came, and with it, my bank account mysteriously got depleted... It's as if a small ghastly midget had decided to take over my body and ensure I would not be tempted to use my PS4 ever again for anything other than exclusives like Bloodborne and ... Well those other exclusives that might eventually be good... Like Uncharted ?
1400 Bucks later, I have a Kickass pc that will hopefully run all games at very high settings. The only problem so far, my GT 970 vid card is somehow stuck in limbo in Vancouver because, apparently, weather issues... Weather shchelter, I want it now Purolator, the rest of the system is running flawlessly and I want to play dem games already !!! Two days of supposed bad weather when the worldwide weather forcecast for Canada seems to be okay, seems like bull to me... But all I can do is wait... And mope playing crap that can run on the Intel onboard HD... So not much.
The only thing that makes it less grating is the fact I have like a gazillion different games and programs to install , so I guess I can wait a couple of days for the card while I prep the system and get the games ready... Migrating is always rather long since I tend to tweak everything on my PC and install alot of stuff, and that steam library has to download itself anyway...
And I do have a quite the backlog too, my old Laptop had issues with newer games and I had Disk Space issues (had less than 1tb combined space for all my stuff) , making it so that I only installed games I was hell bent on playing... Now I'll be able to install all these Humble Bundle and steam sales games I wanted to try but could not because I had almost no free space left.
The few finishing touches will have to wait though.. I ordered a red led strip and two more red led fans from China/Ebay, so hopefully I'll get those before the new year (Which I doubt since it's so slow usually). This will the total amount of fans in my PC to 8, not counting the power supply and video card fans... Including 6 Red Led Fans... Should be really cool looking... It's already pretty cool ,but slightly too dark since the window is tinted and the 4 current led fans are not enough to light up the whole board and components. Hopefully the strip and two other fans will fix that.
The last PC I built before that one was about 10 years ago, so it was really fun to get back into the "Game", so to speak. It's also the first PC I build as an adult, using my own funding, meaning... OVERBOARD without any restrictions from Parents and reasonable , sane persons. Yes, i'm really paying THAT much for that component... No, I don't want a budget alternative...
Black Friday came, and with it, my bank account mysteriously got depleted... It's as if a small ghastly midget had decided to take over my body and ensure I would not be tempted to use my PS4 ever again for anything other than exclusives like Bloodborne and ... Well those other exclusives that might eventually be good... Like Uncharted ?
1400 Bucks later, I have a Kickass pc that will hopefully run all games at very high settings. The only problem so far, my GT 970 vid card is somehow stuck in limbo in Vancouver because, apparently, weather issues... Weather shchelter, I want it now Purolator, the rest of the system is running flawlessly and I want to play dem games already !!! Two days of supposed bad weather when the worldwide weather forcecast for Canada seems to be okay, seems like bull to me... But all I can do is wait... And mope playing crap that can run on the Intel onboard HD... So not much.
The only thing that makes it less grating is the fact I have like a gazillion different games and programs to install , so I guess I can wait a couple of days for the card while I prep the system and get the games ready... Migrating is always rather long since I tend to tweak everything on my PC and install alot of stuff, and that steam library has to download itself anyway...
And I do have a quite the backlog too, my old Laptop had issues with newer games and I had Disk Space issues (had less than 1tb combined space for all my stuff) , making it so that I only installed games I was hell bent on playing... Now I'll be able to install all these Humble Bundle and steam sales games I wanted to try but could not because I had almost no free space left.
The few finishing touches will have to wait though.. I ordered a red led strip and two more red led fans from China/Ebay, so hopefully I'll get those before the new year (Which I doubt since it's so slow usually). This will the total amount of fans in my PC to 8, not counting the power supply and video card fans... Including 6 Red Led Fans... Should be really cool looking... It's already pretty cool ,but slightly too dark since the window is tinted and the 4 current led fans are not enough to light up the whole board and components. Hopefully the strip and two other fans will fix that.
I give it 2 weeks till you get sick of blinding LEDs lol. Everyone seems to go through this phase. Next up youll want to remove any fan if it does not do anything to the temperatures, because what itll actually do is just speed up dust buildup. Pretty much 1 intake and 2 exhaust is enough.
Naked Snake
Member
I didn't even have a dedicated GPU before (just used Intel iGP) and the CPU never got even remotely hot before, so yeah the heat introduced by my Gigabyte G1 970 is definitely partly or mostly the cause. This card in particular tries to stay as cool as possible so the heat gotta go somewhere and it sits right below the CPU. I tried opening the side panel and that helped a little I think, but didn't eliminate the problem.
Try that whilst gaming, during idle scenario itll be a small change at best.
Try 15minutes gaming, record maximum CPU temp. Continue for 15min gaming with side panel open now, see how CPU temps are.
Im pretty sure this is the problem. Just poor airflow. What case and whats your case fan configuration? Unless you knocked the CPU heatsink while installing the GPU and somehow its not contacting the CPU properly. Put some force on the heatsink to test that.
So I thought I might ask here in case anyone has seen this before. I have a PC with an AMD 290x inside connected to an Hdmi switcher. Since hooking it up, I have noticed on occasion some slight artifacts like white snow in small portions of the screen. When this happens most of the time I can simply turn the tv(not pc) off and back on and they go away.
Then two days ago I take my PC out of sleep mode and literally it's like hell is breaking loose. I keep getting an error message stating that the display adapter has failed and there are now artifacts all over the screen. I thought for sure it was the video card, but checked temps and the highest temp was 44. Even after rebooting same artifacts.
So then I decide as a last ditch I would take the switcher off and run straight to the tv. I restarted the computer and it's like nothing ever happened. Its been fine for a few days leading me to believe it was the switcher or cable, but typically seeing that kind of stuff makes me think the card is the culprit. To compound matters I was planning on selling the card soon to buy an nvidia 970 or 980 but I don't want to sell someone a busted card.
Two questions: has anyone seen that happen with a bad cable or switch or is it more likely to be the card even though it stopped showing artifacts? And when I buy a card assuming I can afford both, is a 970 comparable to the 290x or should I buy the 980 for similar performance at 1080p?Not planning on 4k anytime soon.
Thanks!
Then two days ago I take my PC out of sleep mode and literally it's like hell is breaking loose. I keep getting an error message stating that the display adapter has failed and there are now artifacts all over the screen. I thought for sure it was the video card, but checked temps and the highest temp was 44. Even after rebooting same artifacts.
So then I decide as a last ditch I would take the switcher off and run straight to the tv. I restarted the computer and it's like nothing ever happened. Its been fine for a few days leading me to believe it was the switcher or cable, but typically seeing that kind of stuff makes me think the card is the culprit. To compound matters I was planning on selling the card soon to buy an nvidia 970 or 980 but I don't want to sell someone a busted card.
Two questions: has anyone seen that happen with a bad cable or switch or is it more likely to be the card even though it stopped showing artifacts? And when I buy a card assuming I can afford both, is a 970 comparable to the 290x or should I buy the 980 for similar performance at 1080p?Not planning on 4k anytime soon.
Thanks!
Run the OCCT GPU test with Error Check enabled to test the GPU for artifacting. This could be either a GPU memory failure or a HDCP issue with the HDMI Switcher. Could also be a bad quality cable, insufficient bandwidth possibly if the cable is of considerable length 5m+.
Oddly enough a mate had a similar issue with a particular version of nVidia drivers on his GTX 760, so try a different AMD Driver version with the switch attached.
Stealth_Cobra
Member
Hehe, most of hte LEDs will be inside the case and not visible unless you look trough the side window to see the components. And if you're looking there, it's because you want to see stuff inside, so it's all good. The case LEDs can be turned off using a switch on the case, so It doesn't bother me and when I don't want to show it off, it just turn it off and I have a somewhat regular looking PC with some red only glinting from the side panel and the top. As for fans, well, hopefully the dust filters will do their job and I won't be cleaning this case every week... I'm more concerned about the noise level , since so far the fans I have are relatively high quality and the two new ones are rather basic, meaning they might add alot of unwanted noise to a relatively quiet casing. If that's the case, maybe I won't put them in after all... Then again they are internal fans so I'm guessing even if they are loud, they won't be heard that much.
Ok, thanks. It's not just Windows but also Office365, Photoshop CC and other software. At least I don't have to download all the games again.
Need a quick bit of help guys...
Just hooked up my new Samsung SSD as a secondary storage drive into a SATA III slot. Switched over my backup HDD, and rebooted. The HDD and my primary SSD show up, no problem. However, I only see the new Samsung SSD in disk management, and it shows as online but Unallocated. How do I go about getting this thing recognized by my system and setup properly?
Thanks!
Just hooked up my new Samsung SSD as a secondary storage drive into a SATA III slot. Switched over my backup HDD, and rebooted. The HDD and my primary SSD show up, no problem. However, I only see the new Samsung SSD in disk management, and it shows as online but Unallocated. How do I go about getting this thing recognized by my system and setup properly?
Thanks!
Format it.
Right, but I'm not seeing a menu or option for that. In Disk Management there is no "Format" option anywhere after I select this drive.
I chose to make it MBR when given the option of that or GPT. Do I create "New Simple Volume" first?
Yes create simple volume then you should have the option to format.
Need advice- is it safe to use multiple powered external drives (Seagate Backup Plus) with a powered USB hub? I think the ports on my case are faulty. I'm considering this hub (any recommendations would be welcome) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GX4BG/?tag=neogaf0e-20
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