Thanks. I've been doing some searching and it seems people are running the 970 with no issues because of the low power draw so I might should be good. When I say upgrades, the only upgrades I see myself doing other than the GPU is adding 2 to 4 TB drive to hold most my media. I was thinking of putting in SSD, but apparently that's pointless because boot up times are still very fast on this from what I read. This is a machine that will be on most of the time.
Sounds like you have a plan, then. The only other benefit of an SSD would be faster load times, but that's up to you whether to get it or not.
OK guys this is what i'm thinking about currently with about a days worth of research. Trying to build a kickass gaming PC that will last for a while and run oculus rift games without any problems.
Anything i'm missing/grossly overpaying for? Any sugestions?
PCPartPicker part list /
Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($318.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Mwave)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 EXTREME6 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($163.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 Low Profile Red 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($196.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ Directron)
Case: NZXT Phantom 820 (Grey) ATX Full Tower Case ($181.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000G2 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($162.98 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($56.99 @ Micro Center)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($92.00 @ B&H)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Z PCIe 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Other: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 (04G-P4-3975-KR) ($359.99)
Other: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 (04G-P4-3975-KR) ($359.99) (Not in there database yet)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487088
Total: $2278.85
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-12 00:29 EST-0500
Your Current Specs: Old pc is going to my little brother.
Budget: $2500 max monitor and accessories exclusive.
Main Use: Heavy Gaming and emulation.
Monitor Resolution: 1080p currently but i'm gonna snag a ROG Swift ASAP(or wait for a g-sync ips screen..fuck my impatience)
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: This should run most things well for a while, no?
Looking to reuse any parts?: NO
When will you build?: Probably the end of the month.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes
1. You could save some money by going with an i5 4690K
which will produce identical framerate compared to the i7 4790K in most games, and a cheaper motherboard like the
MSI Z97S SLI Plus ($111) or the
Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ($117), unless you need the more expensive ASRock Extreme6 for some reason. Generally the i7 4790K is only recommended if you are doing things like video editing, CAD design, or other things that can take advantage of the hyperthreading.
2. That case is really expensive. If you don't mind switching, I'd recommend something much cheaper yet still high quality, like the full tower
Phanteks Enthoo Pro ($99) or the mid tower
Fractal Define R5 ($107).
3. The EVGA 1000 watt power supply is a very good model, but overkill for your needs,
700 watts is enough for two GTX 970 in SLI as well as overclocking the processor. I recommend the
Antec TruePower Classic 750 watt ($74) or the
Rosewill Capstone Modular 750 watt for $94.
4. A bit of a warning about that blu-ray drive: If you intend to use it for watching blu-ray movies, make sure it comes with a software bundle. I looked at the Microcenter reviews and while the grand majority are positive, there are some reviewers that noted that it came without any software while some say it did - you will need that software for watching blu-ray movies because blu-ray is a licensed technology and free media players don't really support it well. You can buy Windows 7/8.1 for less than $20 from
reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap.
5. Do you really need that sound card? Onboard audio already has more than enough features for most people. Unless you have something like a high end headset that you know will need a good sound card to drive it, I wouldn't even bother with a sound card at all.
Here's my version of your build. Going with my advice will save you about $450, with virtually no drop in gaming performance. You could put that money toward a better monitor.
PCPartPicker part list /
Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.99 @ Mwave)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Plus ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($133.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX100 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($196.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.88 @ OutletPC)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($106.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec TruePower Classic 750W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($56.99 @ Micro Center)
Other: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 (04G-P4-3975-KR) ($359.99)
Other: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 (04G-P4-3975-KR) ($359.99)
Total: $1759.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-12 01:29 EST-0500
No -- the 3 times I've powered off (shut down from Windows) the last couple days, the next time I've always had to hold down the power button for 30 seconds method, or else it won't turn on normally
But once it does actually power on and boot up, everything seems to run fine.
Alright, well there's a few things you can try, listed from easiest to difficult.
1. Screwdriver trick - touch the end of a flathead screwdriver to the front panel header's power switch pins. This will determine if the switch is faulty. If you can reliably turn your computer on this way, it might just be a bad power switch or cable.
2.
Paper clip test - use a paper clip or short length of wire to short two certain pins on the motherboard power cable to see if the power supply will turn on properly. If you can reliably turn on the power supply this way, then it could be the motherboard.
3. Motherboard issues are difficult to troubleshoot. It could be an issue with something shorting out the motherboard. Give the inside of the PC a good dust cleaning. Make sure there are no loose ends in there.
4. Take apart the computer and reassemble it, making sure all power connections are tight and plugged in all the way.